By Jamie Ferguson.
Hey there Permanent Stylers. Longtime contributor, first time writer so go easy on me.
Now I may be in the minority here but I LOVE summer dressing. I enjoy the feeling of a cool breeze betwixt my nethers, brazenly unclasping that fifth button on my shirt as I sip a refreshing sixth, seventh, maybe eighth (who’s counting anyway?) Spritz. Dressing for heat yet dressing well is tricky and I relish the challenge.
However, the colder months ARE closing in. Well, they are where I live anyway. The rest of you are probably still basking in the heat, trying to avoid unsightly tan lines and eagerly awaiting a jellies delivery. But for those of us in Ireland it’s time to start contemplating hibernation. And by hibernation I mean LAYERS baby! Menswear’s most exciting time of the year is coming.
To that end, I’ve climbed up into my metaphysical attic, cracked open the thought trunk and unsealed my vacuum-packed brain bags to bring you: JKF Man’s 5 Things I’m looking Forward to Wearing in Autumn/Winter ’24. The title needs a little work but hey, at least there are no moths.
1 Inis Meain cashmere Aran jumper
Perhaps the most luxurious item on my list, I picked this up on a recent trip to Inis Meain just off the west coast of Ireland. I was visiting their workshop as part of an article for Robb Report and spotted it in the factory shop.
I’ve wanted a traditional Aran in the classic off-white/ecru for some time. Funnily, I have another Aran in cotton from Inis Meain but its colouring is much darker - almost like putty. So I was still after a lighter version. Besides, one can never have too many pieces of off-white knitwear: it goes with everything. They’re a pop of contrast in a darker outfit and a pleasingly tonal shade in a more earthy one.
I like that this version restricts the Aran pattern to just the chest piece: one of those small alternates that updates a classic sweater.
This is a big, beefy but surprisingly soft jumper that I plan on wearing fireside, with ripped denim and a pair of Stubbs & Wootton or Belgian slippers, or maybe draped over the shoulders of my PS x PWVC Donegal grey coat.
2 Campbell’s of Beauly Fair Isle Vest
Something that I get a real kick out of is taking a piece of clothing that’s seen a certain way, and attempting to flip that perception on its head. Visually it’s something I find interesting as a photographer, and that’s started to seep into the way I look at my wardrobe too.
This Fair Isle vest from Campbell’s is a perfect example. I think sometimes Fair Isle can be a little tricky to modernise. It can feel a little TOO classic, if you catch my drift. Paisley is another.
In these images, I’ve kept it relatively straightforward by going uber-Ivy: duffel coat, OCBD, loafers, white socks, the whole shebang. I think this works well and fits within my current wheelhouse of style.
BUT to flip the script, something I’ve been seeing more is wearing a Fair Isle casually over a plain, white tee with some super-washed, light blue or off-white denim.
One of my personal style Yodas (everyone has those right?) Nicholas Walter does that well in the image above (on the right - admittedly Nick is wearing a plainer vest but I think the same principles apply) as does Tyler the Creator here.
The plan is to have a minute bit of tee peeking out of the hem of the vest, and the length maybe needs to be shorter. I’m hoping that a careful hand wash might shrink it a little.
The fit of the vest is key to the overall look I want, and I think the easiest way to insure this is by being in better shape than I currently am! I say easy…
3 Rocky Mountain Featherbed Vest
This get up might be my favourite outfit ever. Top three for sure. It ticks so many weird little boxes for me. Some form of tailoring, yup; patchwork madras, yup; white socks, yup; Alden loafers, yup; a Rocky Mountain insouciantly thrown over the top, YUP; ANNNNNNNND a baseball cap??? Well, that’s a big ol’ YARP.
AW24 will be a continuation of trying to see what other items of my tailoring benefit from the no-sleeved hug of this down gilet.
Oddly though, what I don’t do enough is wear it casually and thus, this winter I’d like to do it more. In fact I’m begrudgingly, (like when your big brother has been telling you to watch The Wire for yonks and you’re like ‘No way dingus! I’m my own man…’) planning to take a page out of the Cromptonian playbook and slip it over a marl-grey crewneck sweater, light-washed denim and snuff-suede Alden Indy boots. Thank… you… Simon.
Utility. Gonna be big this winter, I’m telling ya.
4 JKF Man x The Anthology x Harris Tweed Hebrides Jacket
You knew I was gonna slip this in somewhere right? Had to be done and easy to do, as I’m still in love with this tweed AND jacket.
The older I get the more kick I get out of wearing things that have meaning for me beyond just material goods. The Omega WWW watch I bought when my son was born; the robe jacket that I had J Mueser make in Ferguson tartan; the pinky ring I commissioned through L’Arte Nascosta bearing my family crest: this jacket is one of those.
I had never thought about pairing it with a red chambray shirt (also from The Anthology), thinking it might be too matchy-matchy. I remember Buzz [Anthology co-founder] pushing it on me real hard (hmm…phrasing) during the shoot we did for this campaign and not really paying it much attention.
But at the time I hadn’t packed any lighter coloured trousers and I think this look really benefits from it. I’ve tried wearing it with darker denim in the past but felt the overall effect was too gloomy - I prefer these painter trousers or the Bryceland’s army chino.
There are also multiple things I want to try it with this season. I have a couple super-loose chore coats I want to try over the top; I want to try an off-white knit under or over it; and I’d like to try just a plain knit tee underneath.
I like pieces that are versatile and was worried, initially, that this was going to be one of those items I only wore a certain way. It has been fun trying to prove otherwise.
I remember seeing a shot of style-sensei Ben Phillips, either on the Drake’s IG or in the hallowed halls of dear PS. If anybody remembers, let me know. Anyway, he was wearing a grey, chalk-stripe suit with hiking boots. A little wink wink to the Agnelli stans out there. People flipped their lid. It was hilarious and I loved it. Both the unbelievable overreaction to a dude wearing clothes a certain way AND the way a dude was wearing clothes a certain way.
Ever since, this has been something I’ve tried to incorporate into my winter wardrobe, as it can get really cold in Ireland and while I want to wear tailoring, I do not want to get trench foot. Problem solved.
While I’ve never gone FA (Full Agnelli) I am looking forward to testing it out with the Fox navy chalk-stripe flannel DB suit that I’ve commissioned from The Anthology. There’s a look I saw on a Casatlantic campaign (who do some of the best men’s styling out there IMO) that I’m going to try and emulate (above).
I think the combination of navy and black is great, rather subtle and could work well with a denim chore coat for a bit of contrast. There are a few details I’d want to keep an eye on to make sure it comes off, e.g. the suit isn’t too dark and the other components all have enough texture.
I’m sure Simon has made this point before, but it can’t be overstated that when dressing with darker tones you need that fuzz or basketweave somewhere to differentiate between everything, otherwise you end up looking a little lost and flat.
All clothes shown:
1. Inis Meain
- Jumper - Inis Meain
- Hat - Wythe
- Coat - Permanent Style
- T-Shirt - H&M
- Jeans - Levi's
- Belt - Berg and Berg
2. Fair Isle
- Vest - Campbell's of Beauly
- Duffle - Gloverall
- Shirt - Kempt
- Painter's trousers - Stan Ray
- Socks - AWMS
- Shoes - Alden
- Tote - Haulier
3. Rocky Mountain Featherbed
- Gilet - Rocky Mountain Featherbed
- Suit - J Crew
- Shirt - Drake's
- Belt - Berg and Berg
- Hat - Ebbetts Fields Flannels
- Socks - AMWS
- Shoes - Alden
4. JKF Man x The Anthology jacket
- Jacket - The Anthology
- Shirt - The Anthology
- Painter's trousers - Stan Ray
- Coat - Buck Mason x Eddie Bauer
- Beanie - TWC
- Vest - Uniqlo
- Belt - Berg and Berg
- Socks - AMWS
- Shoes - Alden
5. Morjas
- Boots - Morjas
- Coat - Permanent Style
- Jacket - J.Mueser
- Polo - The Anthology
- Painter's trousers - Stan Ray
- Scarf - Begg x Co
- Beanie - Geo Skate
We need to move the man behind the scene to the front of the camera more often,,!
Really enjoyed this Jamie, humourous and informative as ever. Should tide me over til Derek Guy does his “Excited to Wear This Fall” also.
Good article! I’m also looking forward to wearing my Aran jumper, albeit lambswool rather than cashmere. Also my scarves! I have a silk paisley one I love in autumn, although it’s very slippery so have to be a bit careful.
Although my style is a lot more conservative i always enjoy reading and seeing pics of Jamie rocking his clothes. Very few men can wear such characterful pieces and make them theirs. Sadly that he didnt show a full formal look like the last time but i enjoyed this article a lot. Simon do you also have experience with inis meain ?
Hey Georgios,
Yes I do, they’re a wonderful company making in a very authentic fashion and I’ve had a few things of theirs over the years. The thing I often struggle with is the designs, so it’s nice to see a piece Jamie really likes
Hope to one day see a review of Inis Meain. Seems they have a great story and great knitwear.
You struggle with their designs?
Do you mean you can’t figure out how to incorporate one of their sweaters into one of your standard outfits?
Speak English, Simon 🙂
By the way, some years ago, I found a gently used Inis Meáin sweater at a thrift shop near Boston, for $35 !! I didn’t struggle with that price.
Thanks Leif. I mean that I often don’t like the designs or fits
Fair enough. I find that while they wander a bit off the path of the traditional, they don’t “lose their way home”, so to speak. I like this; some tweaking with tradition while avoiding gimmicks or just tweaking for its own sake. Their logo, by the way, of the three men carrying a small boat (maybe too big to be a “coracle” — maybe a “dinghy”), is a favorite of mine.
It is lovely, I agree
I’m living in the tropics and have been experimenting with Inis Meáin linen knitwear. I feel the secret is that you need to allow that the fabric will stretch and hang. I feel the fabric works poorly as a crewneck. The neck gapes open and the body can look shapeless. But I’ve been loving my linen ‘Relaxed Jacket’ (a db shacket). I feel the drapey quality of the linen works great here allowing the open jacket to sway and fold on itself as I move.
Galway local here… the boat featured in the logo is called a “currach” (pronounced ‘cur-rah’)… Which is a vessel unique to our part of the world.
I only mention it as, as much as I love this site, I generally have very little to offer this forum stylistically, so I thought I’d take my time to shine accordingly! 🙂
It’s much appreciated! Thanks Paul
It’s always good to be reminded that clothes are supposed to be fun.
Hi Jamie,
Good to get your perspective on Winter wear. Some good pieces. I especially like the Buck Mason x Eddie Bauer. I see a few are still available and that they do a tax and duty paid to the UK at check. Please could you let me know what size you are wearing?
I also like the front panel only arran. I have similar in a cable and find they make a good under layer as you get the look without some of the bulk.
Best wishes.
Quick note from me on the Bauer – watch the length if you want to wear it over a blazer. I have one too, and the length works great on Jamie but I get a couple of inches of jacket poking out below the coat. Which of course you might be fine with
Thanks Simon good advice. I think I would mainly wear it without a blazer as shown on the website.
Jamie please let me know on your size.
Hey Stephen,
I’m wearing a size M in the BM x EB. I’m normally around a 38UK in jackets if that helps at all as well.
Thanks Jamie,
That is very helpful. I’m about a similar size to Simon and 40 jacket, so will go for a L, (good to layer sweaters underneath) which they fortunately still have.
Thanks to you both.
Love the looks and the writing. Hope to see more! Quick question: Are those Alden’s black or color 8?
RG, Thanks, appreciate it! The Alden’s are the black cordovan.
Really cool, great to hear from Jamie and a fantastic unique style.
If I may say, photo number 1 in the P.S Raglan is glorious!
It’s a bit early to be thinking of winter when it will be warm in London next week. An Indian summer would give more opportinities to wear Madras and seersucker. I really like Jamie’s choices but (like Giorgios above) my style is more conservative. As Bruce Boyer’s taste is very similar to mine – you could call it Anglo-American but transatlantic is my description.
On the winter theme, my favourites are Barbours, covert coat, polo coat, peacoat and tweed jackets. The trousers are moleskins, corduroys, flannels and cavalry twills. The chests of drawers have lots Oxford and tattersall shirts plus several Shetland and Smedley merino jumpers. In the hall are felt hats, flat caps and madder silk/cashmere scarves. The country shoes and boots are under the stairs. Any suggestions what I need to get this year? 🙂
Perhaps a bigger closet! 😊
🤣🤣🤣
That was my thinking but the wife would not be pleased! She even stopped me buying another Georgian chest of drawers for our large bedroom. Simon must have big wardrobes to hold his huge collection of tailored clothing – and a more understanding wife of course. 😉
There’s an article idea, though it may involve giving up too much personal info — how does Simon store all these clothes?
It’s been done Leif – How I store my clothes
Ah… very good. For any young readers that are new to the topic of clothing storage, my first rule would be: stay a million miles away from moth balls as they will leave a nasty, chemical stench on your sweaters and coats. Fortunately, I did not learn this the hard way as My dear Mother taught me all things wool/ sweaters/ knitting from an early age.
Thanks Leif – in case you didn’t see it, my moths regime was also covered here
Thanks, a great article.
I will say for myself, large plastic tubs for storage work well (though wool likes to breath, so wear it! Take it for a stroll.)
Beyond that, I’ve found some very nice garment bags on etsy, of course for the frequently used items that hang in the closet, and beyond that I deck the closet in natural herbal sachets.
One of your main points in that article on moth handling is wise for a number of reasons: wear your clothes frequently, as many as you have, don’t let them sit unused.
Thanks Jamie. I didn’t know Ben Phillips trained in Brazilian Jiu Jitsu. And here I thought I was the only PS reader doing that.
Good morning..it’s 11:15 am in ny..BRAVO to Jamie’s fall/winter items…i too love summer….it’s a comfortable 70s degrees wearing shorts and polo right now..everyone enjoy your weekend..cheers and much needed peace…
Hi Jamie, that Fair Isle is great thanks a lot for the link never heard of Campbell’s of Beauty before. Can you add a line or two here about it’s qualities and maybe other colourways seeing that you tried it in person
Also no gloves?
It’s a famous Scottish bespoke tailor – https://www.campbellsofbeauly.com/about/. The website says that the Fair Isles are made in Shetland so probably by Jamieson’s. End Clothing has a great choice of Jamieson’s but check the size guides before buying.
Whoops slip of the tongue, just saw it’s Campbell’s of Beauly, to my eye it’s a beauty
Hey David
Haha! No gloves for the studio at least. Rarely in the winter months too. Unless it’s for a prolonged amount of time and then I’m usually shooting and gloves don’t make it easy!
Living in Ireland no wonder you like the Summers. Where I live Summers are to be endured, not enjoyed. They last four months and are very hot and very humid. Can’t wait for Fall!
Despite never having met you or (I think?) heard you speak, you’ve done a great job writing how I imagine you speak – not an easy thing to do, especially if you’re not usually “a writer”. I love your playful approach to clothing – classic stuff but never dull. Nice job Jamie!
A wonderful piece – but something was nagging at me as I read through it. Finally at the end I realized – it was the Crompton-counterpoint! I’ve been reading the casual style guide (thanks to my cool wife and NZ Father’s Day) and have gotten used to the two of you riffing off each other. Any chance of a Simon reply article? 😛
P.s. so happy to get Jamie’s voice on the site. Thanks Jamie!!
Ha! Love it, we’ve become a two-headed monster
I enjoy the high-low combos in the pics. Nicely done.
The looks and the humor both landing really well on a cloudy Saturday morning. Bravo!
I’m a 62 year old ‘trad’ ‘preppy’ whatever and I’ve been insouciant for almost my entire life. The down vest over a blazer and tie thing was something we did back in ’76 (and which had been done long before then). I think it’s great that the current crop of kids have ‘discovered’ this way of dressing. I can’t wait for the black electrician tape wrapped around the forefoot of a boat shoe or sneaker to come back into style (when I did that it was because I had to cover a hole in my shoe and couldn’t be bothered to buy another pair). For better or worse, Jamie dresses like a confident baby boomer like me haha.
I’m less than a decade younger than you, and as I mentioned to Jamie somewhere on this thread…. in our day such a carefree mix of formal and informal had some edge to it, some swagger.
Now, I fear, it’s just a look among many in an era where plenty of men show up to special events in sweats, sneakers, fanny packs, etc.
The streets of the ’70s and even into the ’80s had plenty of men, at least those beyond their 30s, wearing at least a blazer and slacks simply to run errands in town, so a down vest — still understood back then as an item strictly worn for hiking, hunting — thrown over a suit, made a statement, demonstrated some brashness.
Amazing job Jamie! Truly well done. Craig
Jamie writes how he speaks and that’s a big YARP from me.
Jaime,
I am so glad to see the gillet over a suit. This must mean you get a gillet couple of sizes larger? If so, does it restrict its use?
I wondered about doing that with a vintage horsehide motorcycle jacket but decided it might be too incongruous. At least so far.
Hey Joners
Hadn’t sized up on the gilet. Just a happy coincidence that it fit over the jacket. Both the gilet and jacket are 38.
Jamie, I think your foray into writing was exactly in keeping with the ethos of PS. Every outfit incorporated elements that have been mainstays of discerning men’s outfits for at least a half century – that I personally know of – and importantly, are still vibrant thanks to the combinations and variations you bring to the genre. Permanent Style does not mean ossified looks. But good stuff endures and adapts. Thanks for a fun and innovative article.
This was an excellent read Jamie, I look forward to more content from you!
As Jamie mentions the anthology I’ve been speaking to them and they have hinted you are unlikely to pay import tax with buying to the U.K. but I’m not sure why unless it’s prepaid. Can anyone U.K. based shed any light on if this is likely? I want to buy but it changes the price point somewhat
Hey,
You should pay import tax and duties, yes – there is a decent calculator here
The only reason you wouldn’t would be if it was marked as an alteration or repair usually
” …a Rocky Mountain insouciantly thrown over the top… “
Except that, no, Jamie, the Rocky Mountain vest is quite deliberately, oh so ironically thrown over the outfit. Ugh! Wash out, damned irony!
Jamie, I say this in a friendly tone, with jest — but that sort of mix and match, suit plus a devil-may-care addition of a rugged hiking vest, just doesn’t have the “edge” it did decades ago and ends up looking studied, “retro”, etc.
Anyhow, thanks for letting me gripe, for throwing some mud.
I enjoy your writing… really 🙂
The cut on everything is great, really enjoyed the duffle and corduroy suit.
Cheers.
Hey guys, great post, could I ask you which Stan Ray’s painter pants model Jamie is wearing here ? They seem to offer different cuts: 80s, Big Job, OG … Many thanks in advance
Hey Aurelien,
Thanks man! The Stan Ray’s I’m wearing in this post are the OG’s. I’ve also got the 80’s in the same cloth but they’re just a tad slimmer than the OG’s.
Thank you Jamie !
Wow every single pair of pants is perfect.
And a lot of other things, but its so hard to find off the rack pants that are not skinny nor huuuuuge.
Beautiful Inis Meain sweater, and great style generally. Simon, Jamie – or anybody really! – do you know if there’s anywhere that makes Aran or Shetland knitwear, where I could do some MTO/MTM? Unfortunately my arms are way too long to buy RTW and while I did find cashmere MTM, I haven’t been so lucky with these specific styles.