Hello! This is my made-to-measure jacket from Bryceland’s in London, in the Fox/Permanent Style tweed. It’s rather good - not the absolute best MTM fit I've had but solid, with more importantly great style, and significantly, a bespoke level of make.
The importance of the style only occurred to me afterwards. I still remember admiring Bryceland’s tailoring on Ethan Newton when you could only get it in Japan, and the particular combination of that natural shoulder and slightly wider lapel. It looked so different, so easy and also versatile - one of the few easily at home with both tailoring and jeans.
When I had bespoke with WW Chan, again one of the reasons I liked the result was the style, which had been influenced by working with Ethan. It shouldn’t have been surprising that I really liked the style of the MTM therefore, but I think I was more focused on how the tweed was going to look.
The style really is effective. The shoulder is wide, but not too much; the lapel also wide, but not too much. The gorge remains high enough for most that have bought tailoring in recent years, but not extreme.
The shoulder is unpadded and sits very naturally on me, but there is the slightest touch of roping in the sleevehead, to stop it falling straight down. This was my main feeling when I put it on for the first time - how much I liked the style of that top half.
The fit was pretty spot on too. Ben and the team in the London store are relatively new to MTM, but the important things like balance and length were perfect.
I took the photos shown here a week afterwards, having decided it actually needed no alterations. Straight from order to perfect, for MTM, with a first-time customer: that’s pretty impressive. (I had specifically requested that WW Chan not use my existing bespoke pattern to aid with the fit - and they said they didn’t.)
Since then, I think the jacket might need a little tweak here and there. Perhaps some room in the hips, as the vents can open a little too much. Perhaps lifting the shoulders, and there’s a touch more drape on the right than the left.
But these are minor things, and given I’m uncertain it’s best to wear it a few times before making any decision, so I’ll be doing that over the next few weeks. I can post a little video along the way on social too.
The process of making the jacket involved trying on sizes in the Bryceland’s store, by the way, which is always helpful to get a sense of the fit and style. There’s usually a piece or two hanging around the store in a different cloth as well. I know Ben just had a nice DB made in Spring Ram.
Those blocks are also important because the only difference between the Bryceland’s MTM and the WW Chan bespoke is the fit. The make is exactly the same.
There are precious few MTM services that put a bespoke level of handwork into the structure of a jacket. Ones we’ve looked at in the past include Saman Amel (Napoli line) and Jean-Manuel Moreau in Paris (their block with Orazio Luciano). Bryceland’s through WW Chan is one more.
The difference from the bespoke offering is then primarily about having a unique pattern, which is all about fit. Those that are unusual shapes or find it generally hard to get MTM to fit well will likely find bespoke better.
There is also style of course - bespoke gives you far more leeway to change shoulders, lapels, general design and shape. This MTM is the Bryceland’s style and you have to like it. I do, but that doesn’t mean you will too. One more reason it’s good having those examples in the shop.
Based on this experience - and pieces I’ve seen on other people - I can certainly recommend Bryceland’s, particularly given the prices for such a high level of make.
In London, a Bryceland’s MTM jacket starts at £1500, with average prices around £1600. Mine, being Fox cloth, was £1899. Suits start at £2000 and average around £2300.
It also brings us onto a reason I wanted to cover more MTM generally.
Prices of bespoke have gone up a lot in recent years. Everything has become more expensive, but the top tailors are at a point where they feel significantly less affordable to even the PS readership.
Now, good things are always expensive. If you start having furniture handmade, for example, you quickly realise how much the same quality costs elsewhere.
And the kinds of makers we’re talking about have always been the top of the market - there’s a reason their customers used to be film stars and aristocracy. The bigger issue, you could argue, is that there are fewer cheap tailors, doing things like cutting by hand but making by machine.
But perhaps that is what high-end MTM is today - that part of the market. It’s certainly improved a lot in the past 20 years, not just the quality (fit and make) but the consistency of the product and the variety of styles.
As to our collaboration cloth, I’m pleased with how useful it's proved to be. I was concerned it would be too dark for black jeans or flannels for example - and a couple of readers have asked that very question.
But I’ve shown it here with both these things, and I think it works well. I like the opposite-of-fussy, stripped-back-and-faded look of my vintage chambray shirt, old black jeans and the jacket, shown above. It feels like the polar opposite of the too-fussy windowpane-and-pocket-square look that became so popular 20 years ago.
(And that’s a long time - think about what changed between 1945 and 1965, or 1970 and 1990.)
But you could add a belt to both these looks to create an extra point of contrast, and a sharper shirt, or more tailored trousers, would make the world of difference. The same jacket with sharp cavalry twills and bespoke black oxfords is beautiful.
Any other questions on the Bryceland’s service, the cloth or the style, please let me know.
The other clothes shown (as well you know) are:
- PS Oxford shirt in pink (size medium)
- Fox Brothers grey flannels, bespoke by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury
- Frank Clegg signature working tote, chestnut
- Alden full-strap loafers in Color 8 cordovan
- Jaeger-LeCoultre reverso, yellow gold on black alligator strap
- Charcoal socks, TM Lewin (OK you didn’t know that one)
Rather surprised the gorge seems on the high side given bryceland appears to be more vintage inspired.
On the side simon have you tried the new.goodman jacket by anthology? The design seems quite unique with hacking style pockets and very wearable colours but im not sure if the design of the pocket is a little too strange
I haven’t, no Shem
Hi Simon,
A very nice jacket and some really salient points about pricing. One minor comment… You mentioned that the shirt is pink, on my screen it looks blue.
Best Regards
Vik
There are two different outfits here Vik, one with jeans and a blue shirt, one with flannels and a pink shirt.
The listing at the end only contains clothes not mentioned already in the article, which the blue shirt was.
“Prices of bespoke have gone up a lot in recent years. Everything has become more expensive, but the top tailors are at a point where they feel significantly less affordable to even the PS readership.”
I’d be interested to get your take on what’s driving these price hikes Simon? Is the impact of the inflation that European economies have experienced in the last 2 years being passed onto the end customer (presumably it can’t just be that if there’s variation in the level of price increases taking place at different entry points in the market)?
Or is it reflection of the fact that the incomes of the very wealthiest have continued to grow at a rate that’s significantly greater than that experienced by the rest of us, meaning that demand for very expensive stuff has accelerated?
Or is it both, or neither?! Thanks.
There are several factors I know of, but some of the most prominent are:
– A lack of makers, the coatmakers and so on. This is perhaps the biggest cost driver. That lack of supply means one tailor I know used to have to pay £500 to a coatmaker 10 years ago, now has to pay £1000.
– Slowly rising costs of materials, particularly since Covid. Everything from cloth to buttons.
– Travel costs. If you do trunk shows, this is a huge factor. The cost of going to New York for example, has gone up over 50% since before Covid. And if you’re a high-end tailor, you can’t hold appointments in a budget hotel.
Thanks Simon.
Once again the lack of skilled staff is driving price hikes of things people love.
Hopefully the young guns spot this, as, in my mind, being a top-tier tailor must be a wonderful career.
I’d agree Ross, but the issue really is not the tailors/cutters that we see, but the coatmakers and trouser makers that we don’t. And frankly, it isn’t necessarily a wonderful career – one of the issues in the past 10 years has been that young people have found that work hard, and aren’t prepared to work as fast for the same money.
Historically, the jobs were done more by immigrant populations or working class ones, for whom it was a step up or at least a skill and therefore something reliable. The bigger issue is the lack of that kind of worker – you see it in Scottish knitting mills as much as London tailoring.
I heard similar complaints from my US tailor that works with makers in Italy. It also sounds like it is much harder to find reliable makers that do consistent work in recent years. I tend to think its mostly a generational thing, since to the best of my understanding in Italy most of the makers were not necessarily immigrants.
I agree that an article exploring this topic would be very appreciated. I think that Caraceni expressed similar complaints in your interview. I also think she received unfair criticism in the comments for not developing a pipeline of makers to support her. Simply put, I think that there are much bigger forces in play.
It’s especially interesting because this reality contradics basic economic assumptions we learn about in Econ 101 regarding markets and supply and demand.
I won’t rule out that in 10-20 years the majority of tailors will have to make most of the garments they cut themselves- and costs/prices will have to further increase to reflect this reality.
Yes you’re right, in Italy generally there has been more of a local working population for this kind of work – particularly in the poorer south. It’s often internal migration rather than external.
On economics, it’s a very inflexible labour market. You need to train for at least 10 years, and you need a particular type of person to be prepared to do that for so long, on a relatively low income.
Also, not to get too much into sociological discussions in the Permanent Style comments section, but part of it is the fact that there are just fewer and fewer young people in most countries of the world. Immigration has been a popular response in Western countries, but it tends to draw people into either unskilled labor or into the university sector and from there into the white collar economy. Skilled manual labor of this kind is the worst hit by this development.
On a more clothing-related point, Simon, I am intrigued by how grey the brown bit of the collaboration houndstooth looks in these photos. Is it just the lighting?
Interesting point Isaac, yes I can see why that would have an impact.
The brown deliberately has some grey in there, yes. All about those little touches of yarn in the mix!
Hi Simon and Isaac, I agree that there’s a challenge convincing the next generation to consider a craft – be it tailoring or bespoke carpentry – as a career. I now live in a small village in Greece and, thankfully, we are starting to see younger individuals seeing the value of pursuing a craft. I wonder if this is something Govts around the world can help facilitate? Dimos
They certainly can Dimos, and there are various schemes in the UK and France for example. But in the end if there aren’t people prepared to work that hard for that long, to learn one trade, the schemes don’t help that much. As discussed, you also need a certain flow of immigration often
I’m always surprised you go for unstructured shoulder given you have such ‘dropped shoulders’.
Always love Fox cloth . I don’t think they’ve ever made a bad cloth.
I think the shoulder is really a style thing. Once you understand both and what each does for you, it’s really a question of which style you prefer – though I completely get why some people think a squarer shoulder is better.
Not sure I’d wear a lot of the summer Fox checks, but having said that they’re still more tasteful than most people’s
Never dance and perspire while wearing a jacket or blazer of Fox lightweight flannel cloth because salts in the sweat will change i.e. destroy the cloth surface of the jacket.
Hey Simon,
I like a milanese buttonhole and I see your MTM one I think doesnt have one- do you know if it is possible to request this as part of the MTM?
I don’t think so, but let me check
Are the buttonholes by hand?
Yes
Confirmed Andy – it’s not possible with the MTM
Wonderful coat. And I think the price of MTM is reasonable for this level of construction.
it may be only me – I always perceive lack of tie in an outfit with a coat as something missing. I have to change my perception, I believe. 😊
As someone who rarely wears ties with seperates, I find it can depend on a lot of other factors. Presence of other accessories, formality – especially from the cut, style, even colours/contrast etc. Like other than the occasional knit tie, I’d never begin to suggest one with jeans, while I did look at the flannels outfit here and wonder if it’d benefit from a tie.
Equally, it could just be a matter of the screen I’m using and its brightness and colouring; perhaps the pink and the trousers both stand out more from the trousers in person, which I do think would help. But these days, sadly, ties seem to feel mostly like event wear for the majority of men
I’d also wear charcoal flannels with that jacket but with a white Oxford shirt. Your suggestion to add a knit tie for a smart look is a good one. It seems that wearing tailoring with chambray shirts and denim jeans is becoming common in menswear circles, especcially bloggers. For a casual alternative, I’d have chosen a Friday polo and bedford cords instead.
I think ‘double denim’ like that with tailoring has been around for a while Kent to be honest
I wouldn’t know as I’m not on social media and just read a few blogs. Few men wear tailoring or tweed jackets in my prosperous, middle-class town. Most, even the well-off retirees in expensive restaurants, wear polo or rugby shirts, denim jeans and trainers.
Yes I’m talking less about real life in most places! More in fashion and then among fashion bloggers/people over the years
And also to add that the concept of double denim is very popular in some geographies. In Canada, it’s usually a common every day workwear option (think: jeans, flannel or t shirt, and jean jacket), though not an uncommon everyday outfit more casual with black jeans and a blue denim shirt. The Canadian Tuxedo.
Kent, do you know where this jacket is from? I like the lapels.
Just a curiosity: do you wear long or short socks ?
Long with tailoring generally. Short with jeans and chinos
Recently, we had an exchange on whether MTM offers better value than bespoke for casual tailoring. The Bryceland/Chan MTM offers excellent quality and value at those prices. A fair comparison would be Anglo Italian’s MTM at very similar prices. My guess is that Bryceland’s offers a better quality of finish. Is that fair?
I’d also be interested to know if Bryceland’s/Chan’s MTM could be adapted for a more British style. I’d want some padding in the shoulders, slimmer lapels, a clean chest rather drape, a fitted waist and perhaps a one button style like Whitcomb & Shaftesbury’s.
Hi Kent – no, as I said in the article, only this one style is possible. That’s the biggest downside of it, but is also the case with MTM generally. It’s cheaper because you’re working with one block and process, not creating a new one for you.
The make is better than Anglo’s yes, as it’s full bespoke
I thought that there could be more than one block when I read this sentence . “Those blocks are also important because the only difference between the Bryceland’s MTM and the WW Chan bespoke is the fit. The make is exactly the same.”
Ah, I see. No one block, just in different sizes
Hi Simon,
How do you compare MTM options like this vs. bespoke tailors thst are more affordable such as Graham Browne?
As a first timer, which one would you go with? And any other options you would consider?
Best,
Asit
Well, there the difference is really one of fit v make, but the make would actually be better with the Brycelands and with G Browne there would be ability to fit more people. The styles are also very different
Hi Simon
A tweed jacket is next on my list, my shortlist is either this cloth or the grey herringbone you made with the Anthology. Which would you recommend as being more versatile? For context , I will be styling it like yourself , jeans , flannels , denim or oxford shirt. As always would appreciate your advise.
For versatility, the grey herringbone would always win I think
Interesting to hear your thoughts on the place of MTM in the market. As someone who — unless public sector pay CONSIDERABLY picks up, which… well, lets save that topic for elsewhere! — is unlikely to be able to afford full bespoke any time soon, I am really interested in places that offer good MTM propositions.
One thing I’ve noticed in your coverage of MTM is a lot of soft-shouldered, Italian influenced tailoring. Do you think that is because this style is easier to deliver MTM, or more because the softer style lends itself to more casual wear, which is more what you want from MTM commissions?
I find myself drawn more to stronger shouldered aesthetics, and slightly more dramatic cuts. From your MTM articles, the one I like most is Edward Sexton’s offer. I also have a suit from Husbands which I really like and would consider looking at their MTO when I next scrape together the pennies for a commission. Do you have any experience of Husbands tailoring, or plan to cover it? And beyond these two, any other tips for MTM with a sharper and more structured cut than the many neapolitan-esque offerings?
The jacket looks great btw – I think the dark houndstooth is brilliant!
Thanks.
The reason so much of the MTM is softer in style is that the high-end factories are nearly all Italian.
For more structured stuff, yes I’d look to MTM through the likes of Sexton that’s made in China, or some of the other Row tailors, though often their MTM isn’t that similar to the cut of their bespoke.
No current plans to cover Husbands tailoring, but I’m sure I will do at some point in the future
There are tailors outside London whose bespoke prices are around half those of Savile Row. The level of finish may not be quite the same but the fit should be better than MTM, which is unliklely to be perfect, as the article says. (Simon’s jacket looks a tad short to me.) And at least you wouldn’t be paying for other people’s trunk shows.
Hi Simon. I really like this – I think it looks great and straddles both the more formal and casual ends of the spectrum really well, so is great for a versatile wardrobe. One question if I may please. The jacket is not that fitted around the waist. I know you’ve been going for more relaxed styles of late for reasons you’ve documented. In his instance, could this have come in a bit more or is that the house style?
No, you could have it more fitted at the waist, certainly
Which style do you order out of interest. This or the anthology?
You mean which do I prefer? I really like both, but it’s probably too early to compare directly, as I’ve only just got this.
An advantage with the anthology would be more variation in fit of course
Aha yes sorry! Typing on the move.
I ought to learn to be more patient before rushing to judgments. I’ve often come to love jackets I wasn’t so sure about at first because of how they behave and wear. And find more issues with jackets i thouht were perfect from the get go.
Personally, though intiial judgement from me despite all of that. I think instinctively I prefer the soft and roundness of the anthology’s cut!
The cut of the jacket is really, really good. The shoulders and lapels are just right. Also very happy to see you cover higher end mtm more, as this feels like a more realistic reality of many of us nowadays.
This pattern looks very similar to Anthology for me actually
There are some differences, the biggest probably being that the anthology is more rounded – more neapolitan – through the foreparts, below the waist button
The cut and style looks excellent and suits you well. Do Bryceland offer a style with squarer shoulders?
No, as mentioned in the piece the style is quite set. But I have sloping shoulders so on someone else the shoulder might look different
Very interesting – I like the jacket a lot and their pricing looks sensible.
Regarding the huge increases in bespoke, the issue for me is not necessarily the cost of purchase, it is absolutely the cost per wear. I love wearing tailoring but frankly there is so little opportunity these days – the cost per wear has gone thru’ the roof. And this I will not tolerate. I’d rather spend money on something I’m going to use a lot. This is MTM’s big opportunity.
Simon, it’s really starting to look like the WW Chan styling is perfect on you. That’s completely subjective of course, but everything about it expresses everything I’d want to express on a jacket. It makes me immensely tempted to get a jacket made by them, even in their MTM offering. That’s also especially from Ethan’s endorsement, considering I’m a broader and taller guy myself. I just have two questions for you:
1. I believe WW Chan actively makes visits to NYC for bespoke trunk shows. Will their MTM service be offered exclusively through Bryceland’s? And if so, is there any chance for Bryceland’s to ever conduct a pop-up/trunk show overseas here in New York? (apologies if you’ve answered this question above in the article, it’s escaping me as I write this out.)
2. How do you find this jacket to serve on a functional level alongside your brown tweed (also from WW Chan)? I know there’s a bit of overlap considering your collection of jackets, but for someone who is debating the two fabrics, which would you suggest to whom? They both look like they’d sit just as nicely with faded black jeans and grey flannels (as shown here), but it looks to me that the PS x Fox Houndstooth might be a little colder?
Cheers, and happy Friday!
1. Yes this is just Bryceland’s. I don’t think there any immediate plans for regular trunk shows, no.
2. Yes the PS one might be a little colder, but I think the only significant difference is probably the pattern – whether you want something with a little pattern or not. And the weight a little too
Ahh I see, thank you. I was also looking through older articles and saw your Anthology grey herringbone tweed jacket again, and it also has some similar stylistic sensibilities as WW Chan. It looks like Chan might look a smidge more structured, but the proportions to me aren’t too dissimilar. Either way it’s a fantastic cut.
I’ve very much been appreciating the MTM coverage, due to the reasons you’ve outlined. I know this brand may be in lower than the typical quality level that you cover here, but there’s been a lot of interest in Collaro for MTM and remote MTM. Would there be any possibility in coverage on them?
Probably not, but always good to know there’s the interest
Hi Simon – don’t see anything around Bryceland’s MTM on their website. Is this something available in-store at any time? Or only when WW Chan is there for a trunk show?
In store at any time, yes
Looks pretty good to my eye and I think those lapels and ever so slightly extended shoulder add that little bit of flare. Personally I prefer slightly more open quarters but that’s nitpicking really. Looks a great addition to the MTM options in London.
I really, really like this tweed… but I have so many winter weight jackets, especially in brown. Which is probably why I like this tweed too. It’s right up my alley.
In general, I find it’s much easier to find patterns that I like for odd jackets in fall/winter weigfhts. Much harder for summer weights, where I basically go with solid navy or blue, or solid oatmeal – outside of Cacciopolli, which sometimes has patterns one associates with fall/winter fabrics, but in a summer weight. Solid brown and green just seem off to me in summer jackets.
Yes, that is hard. Sometimes just a little texture or a micro pattern is helpful there to give a little interest
Great looking jacket and lovely cloth, Simon. Recognizing you gave a good bit of fit/style detail in this article, how would you differentiate this style to the style of your WW Chan-direct jacket? Wider shoulder and more drape in the Bryceland’s model? Thanks.
Good point. They are pretty similar but yes, a little wider and bigger. The significant difference really is in the bespoke fit though
Lovely. Reminds me (in a good way) of a lot of Anglo Italian’s tailoring with that wider unpadded shoulder and wider lapel. Anglo tends to have more open quarters, but do you think it’s a fair comparison? Maybe I’m being slightly swayed by the rather Anglo Italian murky cloth.
There are some things in common, certainly, though I think this is distinct. Compared to the Anglo MTM I have, this has a little more shape – drape and then fit in the waist – which may be a result of that bespoke level of make. Yes, the quarters, but also small things in the shape of the notch and lapel.
Perhaps we should do a ‘Style Breakdown’-type series on MTM makers, following the bespoke one?
Ooh yes I think that would be very welcomed
Seconded; that would be most interesting and helpful, so yes please!
Thirded!
A very nice jacket, i didnt know Brycelands had such blazers. Since i am almost ready with my casual wardrobe i was thinking of getting a casual suit every year. Do you like the style of Brycelands or Saman Amel more ? I am mostly interested in casual suits since my job doesnt require anything formal.
I like both but would wear both in different ways and places. I’d go first off which style you think is more you, and then consider the particular value proposition Saman has, with the often higher prices but more brand, experience etc
I like most Saman and since i am not in a rush i am going to give them a try i guess. I read yesterady a relative old article from you about casual suiting options. After 5 years would you still start with a corduroy suit or would you choose another material ? I sure dont need more than 3 suits for a long long time but it would be nice to have some versatility
Yes I’d probably still start with cord. I love my brown Ciardi one
The MTM v. bespoke discussion reminds me of airlines getting rid of first-class but pushing business-class to new heights…so much so it’s…basically first-class.
Can I ask what length you take your jackets in (not including the collar, which I think is how it’s typically measured)? We’re about the same height and I often have the problem of jackets that are too short, which I really dislike. I’d guess the length of yours is approx 76 cm.
Have you looked at that in the Guide to Tailors Styles? They’re all listed there, and you can see the effect of the different lengths on me as well
I haven’t but I’ll check it out–thanks!
I was chatting to Ben in store about WW Chan bespoke and the Brycelands MTM. Both options sounded compelling but I did find it hard to compute that I could do that in the same shop, choose similar cloths and get similar products at the end of the process. In the end I couldn’t choose. Any thoughts on the differences – both in terms of product and end result?
So, I’d say the differences are really the two mentioned in this piece: bespoke fit and bespoke design.
Bespoke fit will work better for some people, as I say, and bespoke design means you can create your own piece more rather than just wear the Brycelands ones.
If Savile Row prices go up much more, MTM may be the way to go?
Can you recommend Brycelands today?
As well as Brycelands, what other MTM ateliers would you consider high end and what are you favourites?
My current one is now Andrew Watson at 11 Upper Queen Street in Belfast.
Worth checking out!!
Lindsay, I specifically say in the piece I would recommend them, and why – was there something there that wasn’t answered for you?
I also mention other MTM makers at the same level (Saman, Jean-Manuel Moreau)
Ok Simon.
Admittedly I got it wrong this time…which was not my intention! I only had a mere glance at this article before replying with the enthusiasm that I have and should have read that first. My apologies for any misunderstanding caused.
No worries. Easy to do, but yes please do read first
Quite right!
Many thanks for your understanding.
Hi Simon
Just to clarify, if I were to get this mtm jacket from brycelands with the same cloth, it’ll cost me £1899?
I am assuming they can source the cloth directly from Fox without the need of me buying the cloth first and then giving it to them?
Yes, and yes they can
I was surprised by this price. I enquired at Anglo Italian about a suit in the PS x Fox chalk stripe, as apparently have many others, such is the great interest in the collaboration, but was candidly informed that Fox would charge them so much for that particular cloth that the total price for the suit would need to be 50% more than for any other Fox cloth, and 66% more than the base tier. The guys explained this was apparently because of the limited nature of the fabric and the resulting fact that Fox wouldn’t offer them the typical “tailor’s” or business price for that cloth compared to their other offerings?
I’m not sure what that was about, but there is a regular tailors/business price for that cloth, and it’s the same price as other Fox cloths.
I mean 2.5m cloth is almost 600£… Add trousers and price is not surprising…
That’s not the price the tailors pay though Martins
Hi Simon, great to see another good MTM option in London. Just wondering how you feel the jackets cut goes with jeans? I mainly ask because the quarters looks rather closed.
Thanks.
I know what you mean, but actually I like it with jeans, at least in this tweedy material
Simon, grateful for your comments re pricing. I just cannot just £6.5k on a bespoke suit, I’m also kicking myself I didn’t buy previously, the increase in pricing has been a LOT.
It’s slightly galling that MTM is nearing the price point of bespoke, but I guess it is what it is.
Maybe it will result in a return to your days of 2008/9 when you were looking at mid tier producers like Graham Browne and the like? (Yes, I’ve been an on-and-off reader for THAT long!)
Nice! I think I said then that for daily suit wear, someone like Graham Browne is perfect, it was designed for city wear like that.
I’d go for softer options like this Bryceland’s for something more casual, but those cheaper part-machine tailors certainly become more attractive.
Hi Simon,have you ever buy Articles of Style clothing and what do you think abou it?
They seem to make quality stuff
I haven’t, no. The style puts me off mostly – high buttoning points, high gorges, some fairly flashy materials – but from what I understand it’s also made to measure but they call it bespoke
What jeans are you wearing? Looks like a nice pair.
Black nineties 501s
Hi, Simon
I am looking for a cream cable-knit jumper like the one from Ralph Lauren but on the budget side. Could you give me a recommendation for a brand that is good in quality but reasonably priced? I will be eternally grateful.
Regards
It’s not really my strong suit I’m afraid, no I don’t know any. Don’t buy RL though! Certainly not good value for money there
On tk max or black friday Ralph Lauren is pretty ok value… Just takes time for any nice pieces to pop up! Look long enough and twin track from private white and real McCoy’s hoodie can be found on tk max!
But I’d avoid cotton cable knit crew necks Ralph Lauren… I have one and its terrible at holding shape, and after washing cotton just doesn’t feel as nice as Ralph Lauren pima cotton jumpers…
“Man in Tweed is all you need!” Was a uni mantra I’d coarsely shout in the pubs and clubs with my course mates.
This article has somewhat reawakened my urge to invest in “night time” tweeds I thought I outgrew.
Cheers!
hi Simon
As regards the price of bespoke, many years ago I dare say that a doctor or lawyer or a high up civil servant could afford bespoke, even Savile row. I suspect that PA Crowe in the financial district was certainly within reach.
Now those professions have seen their salaries dwindle while the bespoke prices have gone way high. Ridiculous west end rents are probably the main cause?
I don’t think it will ever improve and it seems that this MTM is the way to go.
By the way I do think the tweed is a little too dark. Unless you wear light to mid grey flannels and not charcoal. You’re right about cavalry twills though.
i thought the guys at Brycelands preferred a lower gorge than the one you show. Or is that the change from their Italian to WW Chan as makers?
So I think historically a normal doctor or lawyer would not have gone to the Row – they were the top end, and that’s important to understand to put today’s prices into context. Crowe would have been more like it.
See comment above on what I see as some main causes. Rents are an issue too, but the tailors get special rates and other considerations under Westminster Council rules.
That lower gorge might have been the Dalcuore ones yes
Does Bryceland’s do MTM at their Tokyo store?
Yes
Well, I know what I’m doing on my next Tokyo visit! Bought a pair of jeans last time, might need the bootcut black ones too. Thanks as always!
I don’t know if it’s the chest, shoulders or what, but that jacket is too big for you.
Thanks Dan. It is deliberately generous in all three, and I can see how some people might think it was too big, certainly compared to the short and skinny jackets we’ve seen in the past 20 years. I personally prefer it and think it’s more flattering
I love both looks, but the jacket paired with the dark jeans and blue denim shirt is very reminiscent of Hugh Grant’s style in Notting Hill, albeit elevated in terms of fit and fabric. There’s something of the unassuming Brit about it, a look that pretty much anyone could carry off. It’s lovely.
Thank you Ben, interesting comparison
Hi Simon,
Great article! Terribly sorry for the unrelated question, but what wallet do you use? I’ve been considering one from Bennett Winch, but I can’t decide between the brown or black.
I use a little Hermes card holder. I don’t need a wallet bigger than that
What do you think of the closed fronts by the way Simon?
If you had a say in how the block looked, would you have opted for them? That is to say do you think with this style of jacket in this case, they add something?
I genuinely can’t tell if I like the way they look or not. I think they may look ever so slightly off to me.
If I could choose, I probably would have them a little more open yes. But only a little, and I’d trust to Brycelands to have balance through the different elements, so I wouldn’t want to change it too much.
Personally, I don’t mind them in this jacket much though. You never, ever just stand like that as in that fit image. Or at least I don’t!
Thanks Simon. Interesting to hear for sure.
May I ask what you think of the Prologue house style? Is is something you’d hold in similar regard to the anthology and the Bryceland’s MTM?
Probably not. The style is similar to the Anthology but it was always semi-bespoke so not at the same level. I personally prefer the other cuts too
Interesting. What is it about the prologues cut that you don’t like as much?
Seems to be pitched in a similar category to these no?
Similarly, is there semi-bespoke not similar to Bryceland’s MTM? In so much as being a bespoke quality jacket made from a fixed style block?
I’d have to go back and get my Prologue I think to look at the finer details. If I recall their shoulders were narrower, closer fit overall as well. The fit was also better on me on my Anthology and Bryceland’s jackets.
Yes good point on semi-bespoke.
I’m trying to unravel that first paragraph. Are you suggesting that, in your view, the order of importance when it comes to tailoring is style > fit > make?
I’m not saying anything about their relative important, no.
I’m saying that compared to other MTM we’ve covered:
– The fit was very good, but not the absolute best
– The style was better, maybe the best, but that is more subjective of course
– The make is among the best, given so few do a bespoke make with MTM
“with more importantly great style” reads to me as if you would think that style is more important than fit. But I guess you mean not in general, but here in this product, because when the fit is solid, that is when you can start talking about style. Correct?
Ah, I see. Yes exactly, the fit is solid so it’s not worth quibbling over small points when the style is then more of a factor
I hope you don’t mind me offering a bit of feedback. While I can see you’ve been leaning towards a more relaxed fit recently, I’m not sure this particular jacket flatters you as well as some of your other pieces. From the photos, it gives the impression of being slightly too large overall. The fit doesn’t seem quite as sharp as your previous Anglo-Italian MTM review, for example. The shoulders, in particular, appear to sag a little more than usual, which I imagine could be due to the extended shoulder line dropping slightly. Given the weight of this tweed, even in an MTM context, I would have thought the tailoring could have been a bit more structured, which is perhaps why it feels a bit less refined than expected.
Of course, always appreciated.
So, there wasn’t a choice to make the tailoring more structured or not. This is the Bryceland’s style, which includes the cut and the make, and it’s just a question or whether you or I like it or not. You can’t change it with the material.
I can definitely see why you and others wouldn’t like this as much. It is not as sharp or as fitted, and the shoulder is a little wider. You could easily fit a 2-ply jumper underneath, and yet it as some definite shape and style. You couldn’t do that with the Anglo one
Simon,
sorry for diversion but in your instagram post off Carnaby st, what white trouser are you wearing and what tweed jacket?
This tweed jacket; white jeans from Drake’s
Simon,
you seem to be at home with the Brycelands label. I love their site and the look book.
I wonder whether someone like me who wants a simple approach can just go along with one or two labels only and rely on their undoubted taste and quality. Ok there will be some limitations but there could be an ease to that approach.
for instance one could go with the tweed jacket and the Brycelands white jeans.
What do you think?
Yes certainly, no need to buy into any of the more unusual things. The jeans are a pique cotton by the way, so not the denim you expect (unlike they’re other jeans). It’s also quite a stark white
Hi Simon,
Very nice jacket. Any comment on the buttoning point? It looks a little higher than you usually favour these days.
It’s pretty spot on actually I’d say. Maybe a centimetre in it. It’s funny, I find it better to decide that kind of thing by eye rather than measure anything. It’s all a balance with the notch height and shape of the lapel too
Hi Simon – love the overall construction of this outfit and the Bryceland’s style.
On a slight tangent regarding MTM. I have noticed Singapore seems to be a gap in the PS recommendations / content. Understandable given you’re coming all the way from London! However, it would be great to hear any recommendations for MTM in Singapore, particularly in the more relaxed styling you have favoured recently.
Thanks!
I don’t really know any I’m afraid William, but I might suggest going to see Decorum and asking their advice
Hello Simon,
When assessing value for money (don’t want to spend too much), what are the one or two places you’d recommend in London for MTM?
Thanks,
George
What’s too much George? We don’t really cover that much below this level. You can find all the MTM we’ve covered listed here though.
Thanks, Simon. In short, I’m trying to decide if I go to SuitSupply and get something for £700 or go MTM and get something for £2000. I have a fairly standard body type so I’m wondering if the extra money will make a significant difference in the end result. I’ve never done MTM so it’s difficult to tell as a “beginner”.
I see. And so you’d be going to MTM in order to make your own choices mostly?
Exactly. The marginal benefit of the fit that I see really is in the trousers
Very nice jacket. Sits just right on you, yet just roomy enough that you could wear a heavier, flannel shirt underneath instead. The ruggedness of a tweed could withstand being paired with more casual flannel shirts I think.
Yes I agree
Would you ever consider wearing this jacket with a Viyella shirt, a traditional Pendleton or even an LL Bean chamois, in all cases, something with a strong larger plaid that, I think, would contrast nicely with the very subtle, low contrast pattern of this jacket.
Of course, this is me, my taste, in the US, New England rather than old England.
Yes I would Leif. It might help if there was a belt or perhaps even a plain handkerchief, so the focus was not just on those two patterns together
My issue with most of those shirts with a tailored jacket like this is that the collar is too small, and disappears below the jacket collar. It’s rare that a casual RTW shirt like that works for me with tailoring.
Ah, understood… of course with a smaller collar, it can also too easily pop up over the jacket lapel, creating a sloppy look.
As incongruous as Bean’s shirts may be for your more tailored style, I have found for myself that their chamois shirts are long lasting, solidly constructed and their plaids, again for my taste, are flattering and hold to a traditional aesthetic while not being staid.
True. My impression is the quality isn’t as good as it once was, so if those are new shirts that’s interesting to hear
Any experience with the Tom James Co..?
Big company, heavy on salesmen. I’d steer clear generally
Hi Simon! Nice jacket, but I miss a bit more narrative about what makes the make (pun intended) closer to bespoke.
Where is handsewn/handstitched? Are the lapels padded (machine or hand)?
I’m in love with Anglo-Italian, but the fact that the lapels are not padded at all is almost unacceptable at their price point (the fit, in my case, was great tho).
Thanks!
Sorry for not making that clearer J. It is made in exactly the same way as bespoke
So hand padded lapels? Thanks!
Yep
Amazing! One last thing, comparing this jacket to your Anglo-Italian or your Cristina Dalcuore in Solare, the Brycelands feels less roomy, shorter and with a higher button stance, is that house style for them? Or they could go for a lower button stance and a longer jacket?
I think fuller cut, lower button stance and longer jacket look better.
You can tweak the button stance I believe, and certainly the length yes
Do you happen to know what the approximate lead time is for their MTM?
No, sorry Ren
Is it quite important who does the fitting at the Brycelands’ team?
Hard to say from my one experience, but I think they should be organised enough that it is consistent across staff
A beautiful look Simon. I particularly like the jacket with black jeans and chambray shirt as you have shown. I think that’s the perfect off duty look for this time of year.
I’m interested in your thoughts on how this Fox cloth compares to the PS Harris Tweed? Which one do you find more versatile?
Good question. I’d say the PS a little, but they’re mostly just different stylistically – the PS warmer, maybe a little more rural, the Fox one the opposite
Hi Simon, the jacket looks really nice on you.I was just wondering what major changes you had to make when you tried on their jacket that was already made? Did you modify the size of the lapel?
Many thanks,
Jack
I didn’t Jack, no, and that’s not something you could change I don’t think either – this is not bespoke, the style is much more set. The only changes I really made were to fit
I had a chance to visit Brcyeland over the weekend to place an order for the jacket but I was told that adjusting the lapel size, either widening or narrowing it, is easily doable. So I requested them to widen the lapel by about 1 cm, as it was slightly smaller than the lapel size I usually wear on my bespoke jackets. If you had known about this option, would you have made any adjustments? As you may know, the jacket displayed in the shop is made of high-twist coth, so I am a bit concerned that the jacket’s lapel may appear visually wider if made with a thicker tweed fabric.
Hmm, thanks Jack, I’ll talk to the team and clarify. No I wouldn’t have widened it, I like it as it is
Hi Simon, that’s a very nice outfit, a harmonious combination of favorite items often featured on PS coming together very successfully. The overall impression is “recherche” while being discrete — my favorite. Would dark indigo jeans work instead of black ones? and if so, would they call for differently colored socks — say navy? I like the combination of charcoal socks with the color 8 loafers, but have not found many uses for black jeans.
I think the black jeans are particularly nice, but yes indigo would work too.
Navy socks might be good, but sometimes they can be a bit too blue. If so charcoal is still a safe choice
Lovely jacket! Do you know the lapel width off hand? Thanks
Do you know the lapel width? Would love to compare it to some of your other jackets in the style breakdown series. Thanks!
I don’t, sorry, but I will try and do a similar series next year with my MTM
Hi Owen, I’m not sure which size block Simon used, but when I measured the size 38, the lapel width was 9 cm. Hope this helps.
Considering your line of work, even if it wasn’t for review purposes, would you still be inclined to keep using Brcyland’s MTM in the future? The reason I’m asking this question is because the starting price for WW Chan’s bespoke is £2,000 which is £400 difference. While it isn’t a small amount, if you’re already considering MTM, I think it’s quite reasonable for the cost of creating your own unique pattern.
Yes I agree, and if I could afford it I would always do the bespoke