The versatility (or not) of navy hopsack – from Paolo Martorano
I wore this new hopsack jacket from Paolo Martorano quite a bit this summer, which surprised me. Although I’ve had navy jackets in the past, since I stopped working in an office I tend to wear more earthy colours, such as browns, taupes or that ever-reliable default, grey herringbone.
A navy jacket or suit in a fine material tends to be the tailoring most associated with offices, and it can have other associations too - the preppy blazer or, in some parts of the US, even a security-guard uniform.
Manish addressed this when he talked about selecting cloth for bespoke - how the standard advice of a navy blazer has perhaps had its day, or certainly doesn’t work for everyone with changing dress codes.
I even made a mistake when selecting my hopsack - I should probably have gone for something darker, more uniform and drier like the ‘mesh’ I got from Holland & Sherry years ago. Instead, I was taken in by the luxuriousness of the Loro Piana material, and went for this slightly bluer, slightly shinier option.
The cloth was Paolo’s recommendation, but I don’t blame him for my choice. He makes this bunch (Loro Piana 'Jackets') up for a lot of his customers, and it works well for them. As I know from seeing some of those customers and Paolo himself, they want something sleeker, and usually wear it more smartly.
Among drier or more ‘rustic’ options, Paolo recommended the Oyster bunch from Harrison’s and the Worsted Classics from Fox, but both of those felt more like suitings to me, given their density. Or at least, they would have been more traditional-looking blazers and would have made great suits too.
We went into more detail on this in the dedicated article on hopsack, part of the Guide to Cloth. The Holland & Sherry mesh I used years ago, which is probably the nicest I've seen of that type of material, is still available by the way. It just has a different number now - 3024010 (the midnight, not navy).
Given all this, I’ve been surprised how much I’ve worn the Paolo jacket. One reason I think is that I like the combination of a navy shirt and jacket so much - with grey, charcoal, cream and even brown trousers.
The navy-on-navy immediately looks non-corporate and interesting, and if you swap the shirt for a knit that impression is reinforced. I'm wearing a linen popover in these images, but also wore the jacket with a PS Finest Polo underneath (recently restocked - here).
In fact, as I write this it occurs to me that I featured exactly the same combination before - five years ago. That outfit (below) and this one make an interesting comparison as the fit of my clothes is now a little more generous.
The Paolo jacket is a different cut of course - more English, more structured, more drape - but it also has bigger shoulders, a bigger waist and generally more sway going on than the Ettore de Cesare below.
The trousers follow the same trend: back then from Solito, now from Assisi, with the modern ones a little wider and higher.
To my mind neither is right or wrong, they're just different styles, and I can definitely see the attraction of the slimmer fits (particularly having worn both). The roomier one feels more mature to me today, less striving after some sharp, narrow figure.
Also, I should say that these changes don’t mean the clothes become redundant. Those Solito trousers are still going - the legs have just been widened, using the inlay you’d of course mostly find in bespoke.
The other reason I’ve been wearing the Paolo jacket so much is that I’ve enjoyed wearing it with pale-blue jeans (and usually the same navy polo underneath).
This shouldn’t really work, and in many ways it doesn’t. A jacket in a softer make and a more casual material would be a more natural partner. But what makes it is the deliberate contrast - something purposefully more unusual, more showy, and executed quite carefully (fewer shoes, knits, shirts etc will work).
It’s not the kind of combination most readers will want or will find most useful, which is why we generally don’t recommend it. I discussed this briefly in the article on my Caraceni blazer, whose outfit with black jeans is similar. It’s advanced dressing and not for everyone, at least every day, but can be refreshing and more personal.
I’ll do a dedicated article on this at some point, with a shot of that jeans outfit.
As to Paolo’s execution of the jacket, it was great - the kind of thing you forget to comment on, because it is not just good, but predictably good.
The make and fit were the same level as the black cashmere jacket he made, just dialled in in all the ways a second bespoke piece should be.
I continue to recommend him to anyone in New York that is after true bespoke - or indeed in other parts of the US, as he is in Palm Beach as well as other places often.
The shirt I’m wearing is a popover made by Jean-Manuel Moreau in Paris, in Solbiati linen. It’s superb - I had a white one already and asked him to make a navy for this summer. I would recommend him as a shirtmaker as well as for tailoring.
The shoes are Sagans from Baudoin & Lange of course. The sunglasses are Meyrowitz and are sneakily peaking out of the breast pocket thanks to having that breast pocket made a little shallower.
The jacket material is: Loro Piana 'Jackets', Super 150s, N721047, 270 grams.
Paolo's bespoke prices are (all including cloth and tax): Jacket $5200, suit $7500, trouser $2200, overcoat $7500.
thanks simon that you adress the thing that navy as a default recommentation has maybe past. Or better to say it nowadays is much more indivduel to owns environment and habits 🙂 For me the grey herringbone works so well because of me wearing seldomly flannels and even than if you choose something different as grey for the trousers you have a very versitile jacket which can go with jeans, chinos and flannels 🙂
Exactly Max
Dear Max and Simon,
While I do see the appeal of the grey herringbone on its own as a versatile colour to combine, particularly in colder months, I honestly have not been able to get one for myself as I am unsure how to dial in that colour and texture. I keep worrying that it may be too dark and then overbearing by being too stark, or too light then incongruent with many trousers by making the top too light. I am also never sure whether larger or smaller herringbone pattern is better. What would be the recommendations from your experience on making a good choice with these dilemmas? Something that would go with, e.g., cream/beige, navy, brown, olive chinos, dark and medium/light wash jeans, and whichever type of smarter trousers you’ve been able to pull off. And then with various tops, e.g., a chambray or denim shirt, an OCBD, a knit polo, a turtleneck.
Merci and thanks!
Stephan
I think a grey herringbone like my one here can work in all of those ways. I understand why you could worry about shade and size of herringbone, but something like mine I think is a good balance
Hi Simon. I love this jacket.
What’s the cloth & No. for the trousers?
Hopsack is nice of course and so is Mock Leno. I liked the texture, weave and handle of Dugdale’s Tropical Air version. I think my blue MTM jacket is the most comfortable yet despite the full lining.
I have in mind a midnight jacket. I have in mind to combine it with a lighter navy or indigo polo and smart grey trousers in Ascot or Airesco or a crisp light blue or white linen shirt for something more formal, even a standard cotton shirt.
What do you think?
Another great and informative article.
I think that sounds nice Lindsay. The trousers are from my Assisi suit, so details on the cloth there (also the same as in the recent video with Jennie Adamson)
I forgot to add, particularly regarding the shirt that I can envisage that a lurid and deep glow of a good indigo blue denim or chambray shirt would look good also.
Simon, do you have a favourite shirt maker for a good denim or chambray shirt in particular?
I wouldn’t recommend a particular shirtmaker for bespoke, no. They can all make a good one – the issue is more their access to casual shirt materials. If you want a smarter denim, any we recommend would be fine. If you want something more casual, you might want a MTO service through someone like Bryceland’s or The Anthology
I’d Luca Avitabile in mind when he visits London.
He’d certainly be good on the smarter end
Fantastic!
Many thanks
Lindsay
Luca has made more casual chambray and japanese denim shirts for me. He can do whatever you want and has good taste
Thanks Luke – I’d be interested to know what those are, I suspect the material is still towards the smarter end compared to a ready-made denim or western shirt, right? Even mills that supply heavier denims like Canclini don’t do the same kinds of cloths
This aligns to my experience. I recently received a custom chambray shirt from one of the makers frequently discussed on PS. Very nice shirt, but the material is much smarter than I had in mind. So much so that I still have a chambray shirt on my “to buy” list… one much more causal in nature.
That’s super Luke!
Many thanks
Lindsay
Just a very late afterthought.
How would say, a pair of Blackhorse Lane Dark denim jeans look with the foregoing ensembles, especially with the cuffs turned up!
Also chinos in the right colour?
Well, that’s a whole different area, of wearing jackets with jeans. I’ve written a few pieces about it in the past Lindsay, if you care to have a search, plus adding the thoughts in the piece here
I don’t wear tailored jackets much, but really like the navy popover from JMM (and navy layers). Can we see/hear more of it? Have you tried it with vintage Levi’s or heavy beige chinos, or is it a bit too smart for that kind of look? Lovely images as always.
Cheers.
It’s too smart for that kind of thing really – it’s a fine Solbiati linen, I’d want something more textured for jeans and so on
A very timely article, as I received a navy summer jacket from Cavour yesterday and am evaluating where it fits in my wardrobe. I had a similar fabric dilemma to you, as I was weighing up whether to get a fairly standard navy hopsack, or a more luxurious silk-wool blend. I decided on the latter, as although the hopsack would undoubtedly be more versatile, the silk-wool blend with its more interesting texture and slight sheen just felt more exciting to me. I want clothes that I look forward to wearing every time I put them on, not just something that’s practical but doesn’t feel special. I’m willing to sacrifice a small amount of versatility for that (and in the grand scheme of things, few people outside of those who read this blog would notice the difference anyway).
True.
One thing I would say is that men tend to focus more on objects – on the pleasure of wearing one thing, as you say. The longer I do this, the more I think the greater pleasure is how things go together, the whole
That’s a very astute observation and so true. Focusing on the whole is a better idea. That blue shirt, blue jacket, grey trouser look is outstanding by the way.
Thank you
Good point. For me it’s a bit of both. I really enjoy certain pieces in my wardrobe, especially those that are just a touch unusual but not outlandishly so, and I equally enjoy putting them in an outfit that feels just right. I get extra enjoyment if I manage to create a new outfit with pieces I already have. When I bought my new navy jacket a conscious consideration was how it would fit into my wardrobe rather than just getting excited over the shiny new thing.
For me the navy jacket is a summer staple. As you need the cloth to be as far away as possible from anything that might make it look like an orphaned suit jacket, that for me means light and airy. I have two, one a mesh and one a plain navy seersucker.
This means light coloured trousers; white/ecru/stone/rose/baby blue in a suitable summery cloth, dark blue suede loafers (for a bit of fun) and frankly whatever colour of shirt you choose on the laper spectrum as long as it goes with the trousers.
Talk me though the decision to have flap pockets. I can’t help thinking that for most people, who are only going to have one navy blazer, it would make most sense to stick to flaps to make it more versatile. On that basis your choice of lighter navy might also be wise.
I speak as someone who used to wear a navy blazer from time to time, but has now stopped wearing one. For me a navy blazer (or at least my very dark, smooth, shiny, flap pocketed one) is always too smart/formal for anything which doesn’t require a proper suit (or perhaps something more flamboyant).
I have wondered whether I might dip my toe back in with something which can be dressed down. I note however that you seem to be heading the other way, seemingly because you are enjoying playing with considered and deliberate mis-match (or high-low). Perhaps also because you may not require versatility in your nth navy blazer.
As mentioned in the piece, this wasn’t necessarily the blazer I intended, and a darker more textured mesh would probably have suited me better.
If it had been that darker navy I might have gone with patch pockets, except that I rarely like them from non-Italian tailors – they are often too square and too large.
If you were going for something more dress down, I’d suggest maybe a lightweight tweed or similar for winter. There’s more ability here to find a navy that has the right amount of texture yet isn’t too casual
Thanks, Simon, for the considered reply.
I forgot to say -the jacket looks really good, though and the comparison with the piece 5 years ago is fascinating: an inflection point in the long waves (10 year cycle?) of not-exactly-fashion.
Incidentally- can you show us a pic of the jacket with jeans, or are you saving that up for another piece?
Exactly.
I don’t have a pic with jeans I’m afraid, but I will take one.
In the street photo of Simon walking next to another gentleman, does the style of jack worn by the other individual have a name? The lighter-navy one with the high lapels, and what looks to have maybe four buttons?
That’s Paul Croughton, from Robb Report magazine, and he’s wearing an overshirt or shirt-jacket from 100 Hands
Simon – Paulo’s prices are insane. He isn’t even a tailor! Did you have a fitting with the actual cutter or someone who even worked on the suit? I just commissioned a sport coat from a Napoli based tailor who travels to the USA (who you have reviewed more than once) and the cost is 2400 Euro.
Hi Dave,
It doesn’t necessarily make a difference if you see the cutter, but yes I have on different occasions.
Paolo charges the same as most structured tailors at the top end like Huntsman or I think Len Logsdail, and in my experience he is as good. I think that’s the best basis to judge someone. Of course there are also other cheaper tailors, though I’m not sure there are many for this style resident in New York
I agree on the over-the-top pricing. Can you really compare direct to Huntsman? if I remember from the last article, he used to work at Paul Stuart – who also have questionably high pricing on their mtm and custom clothing – and looks like that has been carried over (and more) to his own operation. Surely much better value to be had in bespoke in NYC?
Hey WS,
If anything, my experiences with Paolo are better than those at Huntsman, but the latter was one cutter quite a long time ago.
Certainly, I think the quality of the work with Paolo is as good, and obviously I speak from a fairly lengthy experience now, rather than just making assumptions about where he used to work, making a different product.
There is certainly cheaper bespoke in NYC, and I’d love to hear other people’s experiences, but I’d personally rather spend on Paolo given how consistently good he has been.
The interesting thing is, this is probably the most expensive bespoke you’ve done in the history of PS…that naturally raises an eyebrow or two.
Well, yes that might be true, but I think it’s only because I haven’t ordered from the likes of Huntsman, Cifonelli and so on for a while.
Part of the reason now, of course, is to cover someone American at this level
You really think he’s on the same level as Cifonelli? Not to flog a dead horse but seems like an outsourced operation somewhere in NYC with an Uber-lux front end so to speak?
The make is different – there isn’t the decorative touch you get with the French tailors, but you don’t get that with the likes of Huntsman either. That’s largely a style thing.
And I really do think that is flogging a dead horse, to be honest. Why judge someone based on the fact that the tailor isn’t in-house, when that’s so rare in the US anyway, and not focus on multiple experiences of the actual end product from someone who’s certainly had enough tailoring to make an informed opinion?
Dave, can I ask who this tailor is?
Hi Simons,
This is an aside query, How many options are there between lined and unlined Summer tailored jackets? And haven’t fabrics made of blend fibers the potential to expand these options? Hopefully, an opportunity to update your 2010 post on unlined and lined jackets.
John
Sorry John, could you clarify what you mean? How many options?
And by blends you mean like wool/silk/linen? That’s another option for a different look and feel certainly
By options, I have in mind the commonly half and quarter lined ones.
I also wonder whether, say, a wool/silk/linen blazer couldn’t be made on a still lighter construcion than merely the aforementioned ones.
Ah, I see. On lining, there are different options yes, like whether the front of the jacket is self-lined, for example, and whether there is lining at the top of the back at all, whether it’s straight or in two curves and so on. They are pretty minor differences though and in my experience more aesthetic than practical.
Whether a cloth can be made with less lining is more a matter of how strong the fabric is – how dense, not light or soft, so it can function on its own without that protection. Some wsl cloths are like that, but it’s often more things like these hopsacks that are stronger in that regard
Many thanks, Simon! Don’t you think this topic deserves a post in the future? It could be very useful for those who may be considering either bespoke or MTM jackets.
Yes perhaps – as I said I don’t think it’s a big aspect of commissioning a jacket, but for completeness might be good to include in the suit style guide
For me, the navy jacket is my default. I’m a lawyer, although I primarily work from home these days. When I do dress up, it’s either to go to court (obviously wearing a worsted suit) or just to pop in the office / for business travel. For the latter, I find that the navy blazer is the perfect option. I can mix and match trousers, shirts, shoes, and occasionally a tie, and it all looks professional and put together. I have a DB hopsack in a lightweight mesh (but with some sheen to dress it up) with smoked MoP buttons, and a single breasted option in a denser, brushed wool that can work in most climates. That one has gunmetal buttons.
The thing I like most about the navy jacket is, where it was ubiquitous 15-20 years ago, few guys are wearing them today, I assume for the reasons you mention. I find wearing one to be subtly subversive.
P.S., I’m interested to see the jeans outfit you reference! Cheers.
When doing navy on navy, do you prefer the jacket slightly lighter than the shirt? The reverse? Or the same tone (but different textures)? Do you think this look would work as well had you gone with a darker navy jacket? Thanks.
I think you want them as close as possible for this kind of look, though there’s obviously a little margin there.
If I had to choose I might go for a darker shirt with navy on navy I think, though it’s not really an issue for me as most I pick, of shirt or jacket, are basically the same
Hi Simon,
If I may, how do you think a navy seersucker shirt would combine with this type of jacket ?
I’d never really considered it, but ran across one the other day and quite liked it.
I always stop myself from impulse buys, I wonder how versatile you think it would be.
Best regards.
I’m not sure to be honest, I’ve never had one, with the same kind of concerns about what jackets I’d wear it with
I have a jacket made from the very same cloth. When I was having it made, I originally wanted patch pockets to make it more casual, but ended up with flap pockets instead, which I think was the right choice. I had intended to “split the difference” between formality with the patch pockets, but I think it makes more sense to lean into the cloth’s dressiness, for the reasons you’ve outlined.
I think this is a very timely article because I’ve believed for years the advice regarding a navy blazer is overblown. It’s always mentioned that a blazer is the most versatile jacket a man can own, likely because it works with so many different pant colors. But versatility should also be based on occasion. When it is appropriate to wear a navy blazer? And on this question a navy blazer in my opinion falls short. It occupies something of a middle ground, being neither fish nor fowl. It’s too casual for a formal office and too formal for a casual office. It needs to be worn with special buttons or it looks like an orphaned suit jacket. But it’s tough to go casual with gold buttons, so you need something else – silver, mother of pearl, or perhaps a color such as white. Jeans are a tough pairing with a navy blazer. I think it really only works with a clean dark denim. I haven’t owned a blazer for years since there are so few occasions the jacket works for me.
Thanks Simon for this article, especially for all the information about the cloth! I love this look and have been wearing a few similar outfits this summer in New York. My go-to combination has been an older, unstructured (and maybe un-canvassed?) Drake’s hopsack blazer from probably c. 2017 (not sure of the cloth) that I recently started wearing again, paired with the darker of Anglo-Italian’s two mid-weight denim shirting options. I wear that combination either with a pair of very light jeans (also from Anglo-Italian) or ecru denim. The ecru denim (with suede loafers from Alden or Edward Green) is safer and feels a little smarter overall, but I really enjoy the blazer with the double-denim pairing, finished with dark brown calf Belgian loafers from Rubinacci and a complementary belt. My current favorite high-low combination! Would love to see an article about your take on this…must be similar to the outfit from your recent Walkie-Talkie reel in Milan?
Thanks Kevin, that sounds nice. Yes exactly, that outfit
Interesting article, I’ve outgrown my navy jacket and have put some thought on what shade/material I’ll go for next. It will have to be versatile workhorse/travel piece and I don’t want to go too dark like midnight.
One option I’ve considered is the Anthology’s Featherweight blazer, have you had a chance to see it, any thoughts Simon? I guess it has a bit more sheen that you’d like based on this article.
Navy shirt under navy tailored/casual jacket used to be for years my standard uniform when I wanted to go under the radar. These days I feel it lacks the edge and interest to satisfy me but of course as always the devil is in the details.
I haven’t seen it, no, sorry.
Yes, funny how these looks excite us for a while and then seem too regular. It does come back around though!
Thanks, Simon. Timely–I just ordered a jacket from Paolo myself in lightweight black cashmere (which is a departure for me). I’m imagining it as an elegant cocktail attire option, which accounts for the peaked lapels Paolo and I have discussed (another departure).
I’m always interested in your long-held opinion that softly shouldered tailoring works with jeans, while structured doesn’t. Are your opinions on this evolving?
Most of my bespoke (Despos) has a the appearance of some structure, despite an unpadded shoulder, and I wear the tweeds and blazers with jeans all the time, with success, I think. It’s something about the contrast, as you mention, but also the fairly structured nature of jeans perhaps. Whereas the few Neapolitan things I have (Orazio) seem to need equally softly made trousers to work, and can look a little wimpy on top of jeans.
Cloth choice, of course, has a lot to do with this, but I do think lightly structured tailoring can slide down the formality scale more than most of us believe.
Hey Fred,
My thoughts on structured tailoring with jeans haven’t really changed – I’ve always thought it was a more unusual combination, easy to get wrong, and not what most readers would like or wear. It’s just that personally I’m starting to like that look a bit more and wear it more. Perhaps because structured jackets and tailored trousers start to look smarter the more everything gets more casual
Times are changing, no doubt about that. I wonder if there are readers here who would propose a regional tailoring style that lends itself to the broadest swath of the formality spectrum – from, say, jeans to flannel, high twist or even gaberdine trousers. Or perhaps you have already published something in that vein? Could be an interesting exercise.
I think that’s why Neapolitan tailoring became so popular 10 years ago – it does cover all those bases. It can be quite formal if you want it to be, with a roped shoulder and no ripples in the sleevehead etc.
Simon, do you think a jacket of this colour in high twist would be more appropriate for the purpose? The guys at Sid mashburn in the US really like it as an idea for summer blazers. Would be curious to know your thoughts…
So, most high-twist wools are designed for suits and trousers, not so much separate jackets. Like the English hopsacks I mention in the article as well.
However, high-twist bunches sometimes have options that are better for jackets too – such as mock leno.
Basically, high twist is quite a broad category that only defines something about the yarn. You can make a variety of different materials out of it, and more open or softer ones are often better for jackets. So you kind of have to judge when you see the piece – does this look like half a suit, or not?
I have two navy blazers. One is a lighter shade of navy, while the other is a darker navy. I prefer the darker navy one. But the gold brass button is a little bit not on my taste…
Overall, navy blazers are a great piece. My mom always asks me, ‘Don’t you have too many navy jackets?’ I tell her, ‘Absolutely not.'”
If you are dressing that smartly a lot of the time Jerry, you also have more use for them than a lot of people – they look great like that!
I don’t dislike the use of a navy shirt, but I can’t help but feel like most lighter colors would be better. A white, a chambray, etc. Is that something you think if when choosing outfits? That one option works, but why not go for a better one?
Also, why is a suit more expensive than a separate jacket and trousers?
I wouldn’t say those other shirt options are better, just different looks. White, for example, would look very clean and elegant but also a little plain potentially and certainly more office-like. Chambray is nice too, but less elegant, a different look again.
Good point on a suit, not sure!
The jacket looks great.
However the biggest change (and improvement) from the same outfit 5 years ago are trousers – these fit you much better and look much more relaxed and comfortable. Are they pleated?
Yes, higher rise, pleated and wider.
The width I like, the rise is a little high if you just wear it with a shirt, and the pleats I’d probably go without if I only had one pair, for the same reason.
Hi Simon, do you think a similar look with a light blue/white linen shirt would work for a very casual summer outdoor wedding (30+ degrees, so ties might be out of the table)? It’s going to be my first sting in tailoring so I’m a bit undecided between a navy blazer (most versatile going forward) or a tobacco/brown linen suit (could have good use as I live in a tropical country). Thanks!
I think that could be very nice, yes. Maybe try and add something like a pocket square to make it less business-y.
I’d be careful with the tobacco or dark brown – I once wore a tobacco linen suit to a wedding, and while it was certainly appropriate, I was the only one not wearing navy, grey or beige
Thanks Simon!
That was also my concern with Tobacco, glad you could help with it.
Best, Leo
All the more reason to go to tobacco/brown. Weddings are singular events and I would go with the singular selection of the suit. Plenty of other men will slip on a Navy Blazer and end it there. I think go for something different to honor the occasion with the olive/brown suit
I can definitely see the attraction, and it’s so hard to know what people want out of a wedding these days, but my default would always be to not stand out if I could – or only in the execution and quality of what I was wearing, not the type. That’s what a serious occasion requires anyway
I echo Simon’s point here.
I currently own some odd jackets but none in navy or grey (oatmeal, camel, brownish gray). They are great but I always end up standing out as the only person not wearing navy or gray, and as an event where I’m there to help highlight the bride and groom, I prefer to be as background as possible.
Not sure about your circle, but I almost surely stand out just because the suits fit me better than other people there (which typically wear RTW and don’t adjust) and the style is different (not high street with the slim silhouette, narrow lapels and short jacket).
Plus, you can always get a happy tie (not bright green, just not default plain grenadine)
The navy blue blazer is still a cultural indicator, in my opinion. I was recently at a summer musical event in the Berkshires, in far northwestern Connecticut. The setting was rural, the audience obviously prosperous and sophisticated. At the appointed time, a gentleman came on stage to start the event. He wore slim five pocket pants, a tailored shirt – and a navy blue blazer. Modern cut, but still recognizably the New England preppy artifact. He did not introduce himself, but did not need to. He had on the blazer; he was obviously the boss, host, and emcee. I still don’t know his name, but don’t need to. And the performance was great.
It’s a lovely jacket. Great shape. I’m not so sure about the trouser/shoe pairing to be honest Simon. That volume of trouser to my mind asks for a weightier shoe to anchor things – the dainty slippers lends a bit of an Aladdin flavour
Thanks Robin. There’s certainly contrast there – to me it recalls 1920s slim shoes and wide trousers, but perhaps that’s just in my head!
To me, the trouser and shoe pairing was the best element of the outfit. I really like Assisi trousers as separates
Thanks
I just took delivery of a new navy blazer from Meyer & Mortimer, and I opted for a 12 oz. “dry” Harrison’s hopsack in a dark to medium navy, with darker brown buttons. I’m very pleased with the choices, as well as the inverted box pleat that I had them put in at the center of the jacket’s back, for a bit of hidden room. The one thing you forget when selecting fabric from a book or sample however, is how much heavier the finished product (at least for Savile Row garments) will be, and while I like that weight, it can make for a rather warm experience in the Summer.
TCN
that firm has a long history which is in the book on Savile row. I think they go back to the interwar years? What made you choose them?
What is your opinion on a black shirt (polo, linen, oxford or formal) with a navy blazer (or suit). I have been very skeptical but are, like you, using more black nowadays.
The navy has to be very dark, and it’s easier in a knit or polo, but yes it can look good
That five year old jacket is extraordinarily flattering. Hope it’s still heavy in the rotation…!
Unfortunately not, it became too slim (even after alteration). I’m not the same shape I was then!
Also, while it looks flattering like that, it was pretty tight when buttoned up, and not as flattering then
Hi Simon,
Now as to the topic of this post, I would say that I do not share at all your enthusiasm about wearing these kinds of blazers wih jeans. Even though I love jeans too as you obviously do.
To my mind, it is as though any item in menswear you can think of, on its own sets the objective boundaries of the potential items it could be associated with – regardless of the fashion or even the weare’s subjective perspective. So, for instance, I wouldn’t wear a G&G sharp oxfords with jeans or a casual jacket.
As you guess, I’m not at all the kind of guy who wakes up in the morning pcks one item – whatever reason – and then wonder what else to add for the day‘s outfit. The reason is quite simple: It happens that I have a holitic perspective on what I wear. And only recently, have I eventually realized that it works for women too.
John
Thanks John. I think you’re right on what clothes naturally go with, but I also think there are more unusual ways of dressing that are harder to do, but can be just as stylish and satisfying. It’s not the kind of look most people want, but it’s how and why I admire lots of different categories and styles when they are executed well
Do you think that style could also mean chasing after unusual outfits? As such a pursuit, no matter how consisent it is, could lead us believe that actually anything goes when it comes to menswear. .
John
Sure, that can definitely happen and it can work well or not. I don’t think it would ever make you believe that anything goes though – more unusual looks are often harder to pull off and more narrow in what they can be worn with, so they don’t open up everything by any means
Simon you got such a good style. I admire your devotion to classic menswear! I like your articles.
I still got one challenge to you: this jacket is wonderful but it cost 5k euro/dollar. That is talking from a normal guys perspective totally ridiculous. I know that is the cost of bespoke but only one 1% of the people of the western world do have that kind of money to spend on cloth. I challenge you to make the classic style more accesble for the normal but interested people. Those who have a budget of 3k-4k dollar of cloth spending a year on all their cloth:)
This will contribute to spreading classic mens style even more:)
Hope you take the challenge!
Have a nice weekend
Thanks Daniel. Yes I’ve covered quite a few at this kind of price range. Look up Whitcomb & Shaftesbury or Solito perhaps.
Simon,
I have always liked contrast. Hence would be completely happy to see this jacket teamed with jeans, even lighter worn jeans. Of course, I do not say I could pull off that look, but many could.
how do you think a grey flannel shirt, say Drakes, might go with that jacket?
It could be nice, yes. The hard thing would be getting a RTW one with a good collar to sit with a bespoke jacket like this. Most are too soft and small
A very versatile jacket, Simon. Would you wear it with your black linen trousers?
Hmm. My first thought is it would be difficult. I haven’t tried it, but I suspect the navy might be easier with black if it was darker
Maybe, you’ll have to give it a try, Simon.
I’ve worn a midnight navy hopsack DB (cloth from Fox), with a navy linen shirt and C&J black suede tassel loafers. I think it worked well in the afternoon/evening. I also considered a pair of dark brown dress chinos (next time!)
Here’s a (not very good) picture:
Thanks. Yes hard to see the trousers!
I recently picked up a RTW navy linen blazer from Sirplus for a conference. I wanted something I could throw on and not worry about getting damaged or lost, but I am quite happy with the quality. It’s also relatively long, which is nice and quite hard find in RTW and important for me as a tall man!
Anyway, I paired it with a navy polo from Trunk and grey flannels from Cordings. It’s now my favourite go-to smart outfit – as you describe, navy on navy up top is such a great combination.
Really nicely straddles the border of smart but not corporate, which I think is pretty much ideal for most work situations now.
WOW, I see you in fuller cut trousers here!!!! LOVE IT. It’s such a classic look, very elegant. Slim trousers worn w/a jacket make you look like a popsicle, a stick with a treat on top.
Cheers Guy
Hi Simon,
Do you happen to know the maker of your fellow‘s jacket or could manage to know?
Many thanks in advance.
John
You mean Paul, who I’m walking with? It’s from 100 Hands
Yes. Thank you very much, Simon!
Simon- lovely jacket and outfit. I travel a lot for work and a navy blazer is extremely versatile, as it can be reasonably formal with grey trousers and a tie or with vintage jeans and a polo in the evening.
For that versatility, I typically go for a soft Italian make but the jacket here looks great and I saw the photo on your IG with vintage jeans and Piccadillys, and thought it was equally chic in an unexpected way.
Do you think a hopsack jacket from, for instance Steven Hitchcock or W&S (their softer inset shoulder) would work equally well or is it something unique to Paolo’s make that makes it work in this instance? Thanks.
I wouldn’t say it’s unique to Paolo, no, I would rather say that it’s about a different, slightly more unusual style – harder to do, a slightly deliberate contrast. I do mention that in the piece
Wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a clothes brush/lint roller that work well on the more “grabby” hopsacks that tend to grab every last bit of lint and dog hair?