How to wear a camel-coloured jacket
I was going to refer to this as a camelhair jacket, but camelhair comes in a few colours, including navy, black and brown. The camelhair shown here is perhaps the classic one - the best known - so referring to that as camel-coloured seems accurate. ...
How to wear a camel-coloured jacket
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Got it thanks Simon....
Finally getting it right: The tobacco linen suit
Over time, I am certainly dressing better - more tastefully, more expressively and more personally - but there are ups and downs. The trend might be upwards, but it’s still a scatter diagram. My history with tobacco-linen suits is a good exam...
Finally getting it right: The tobacco linen suit
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It's a style decision and a personal thing, Martins. Tailors will disagree a lot about what's right. The break in won't make a big difference to that...
A Neapolitan ‘caban’ coat, from Luca Museo
What is a ‘caban’ coat? Well, it's meant different things at different points in time, but it has a particular meaning as a sartorial version of a pea coat in Naples. The caban was originally something European sailors called a coat the...
A Neapolitan ‘caban’ coat, from Luca Museo
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Thanks Luis! I haven't seen examples from many other Neapolitans to be honest, and some of them (like the Ciardi one) can be rather different. Sorry that's not that helpful!...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
I had this overcoat made earlier in the year by Sartoria Ciardi from Naples, but have only had a chance to wear it consistently the past few months. The cloth is CT17 from Fox - a 20/21oz wool in their overcoatings bunch. I was confident of the sty...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
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I may have been lucky, but the only time I bought a pair of second hand shoes I didn't have any problems with this....
Bryceland’s made-to-order chambray shirt: Review
Made-to-order services are useful with workwear shirts, where bespoke makers can rarely replicate the construction or the materials. We covered one such service recently, from The Anthology , and today we’re reviewing another, from Bryceland&r...
Bryceland’s made-to-order chambray shirt: Review
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1) I like the length, I think it's perfect personally 2) I don't think it feels like a tailored shirt, no...
Made-to-order Anthology shirt: Review
The Anthology has an interesting shirt offering that I only really discovered recently. Perhaps because it’s not that clearly flagged up on the website. You can get most of their shirts to order, selecting a size that determines the chest and...
Made-to-order Anthology shirt: Review
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Hey Henry, No on my dress shirts I normally have no pleats and darts in the waist. This is just an MTO style from the Anthology so you can't change all those style points...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
In the past few months on Permanent Style, we’ve shown a few outfits that are a little more unusual than perhaps typical: a notch or two further along the subtle/showy scale . The Art du Lin suit at Pitti probably falls into that category, as...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
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Chiming in late but pleased to have discovered this article. Agreed that the cloth influences one's perception of the cut and moves it away from business connotations. At this point I would likely only consider a double-...
Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown
This ulster-style overcoat was made for me by Sartoria Ciardi , the Neapolitan tailor, in 2020. Although I’ve had a few pieces of tailoring from Ciardi in the past five years, this is my only coat from them. It has proved to be one of my favou...
Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown
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Aha, yes it does make sense, sorry. I don't think that would make a big difference to be honest. It will still be good with those two colours of jeans I think...
How I organise outfits – and get my style i...
I know I spend too much time looking at clothes I want, and not enough at ways to wear the ones I have. There are many reasons for this. There’s the familiar retail fix, the fact I wear a range of styles, the fact that I can afford them (and ...
How I organise outfits – and get my style i...
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To be honest, no Robert. I think a lot of people take longer than that when they first wear a piece or outfit. I set out my views on this in this article...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
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Yes, though they are quite happy to move it a bit...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona . A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year . It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of their linen, which is slubbier b...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
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Thanks!!...
How to correct a flattened lapel
Sometimes the lapels of a jacket can get squashed in the wardrobe, making them fold at a point they’re not supposed to (the ‘break point’). It happens particularly with jackets that have more intentional roll, such as a ‘thr...
How to correct a flattened lapel
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I'm not sure anything can be done on a finished jacket just with an iron unfortunately - with the work I've seen, it's done before the collar is set by stitching it all together...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
Wearing a sweater over the shoulders has a lot of negative connotations. But if you can get away with it - because of your style, of where you are, or just because of your personality - it’s incredibly practical. This suit I wore at Pitti earl...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
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I probably haven't done it often enough Mark, but I think most are robust enough...
The cartridge bag: A small eccentricity
Over the past few months, I’ve been enjoying wearing this vintage cartridge bag as an occasional day bag - for when I don’t need to carry a computer or other bulky things. It started when a reader asked about a crossbody bag he could ca...
The cartridge bag: A small eccentricity
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I like Kinto ones, very subtle and functional...
New pink and green-stripe oxford shirts
Two new stripes in the PS Oxford shirt have been added to the shop today: a light pink and a pale green . As is often the case with PS products, they have been chosen as particularly understated, easy-to-wear styles. The pink is the same as that us...
New pink and green-stripe oxford shirts
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It depends on the oxford to an extent, as there is a lot of variety in how fine the material is, some really feel like dress shirts. For a traditional, coarser oxford, I'd personally go with a placket but it wouldn't loo...
Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy
This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring. Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent ) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual ch...
Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy
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Many thanks, Simon!...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
Please read part one of this article, here , before this one. Without that context, setting out my priorities, this summary will likely be misleading. Everyone is different, wants different things from bespoke, and simply gets on with people differ...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
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You're very kind...
Esquire ‘Five Fits’ feature: Tonal sh...
Esquire magazine in the US recently profiled me for a column - their 'five fits' feature . It's run by Christopher Fenimore, who has been into menswear for about the same time as I have, although he was a little younger when he started. It was fun ...
Esquire ‘Five Fits’ feature: Tonal sh...
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It's our one - the PS Linen Harrington. Being re-released next week.......
A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches
I’ve been buying and wearing more corduroy in recent years - including the new dark-brown jacket above, from Sartoria Ciardi . I think the reason is that if you’re not dressing for a formal office, worsted is likely to feel out of place...
A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches
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No worries RM, happy to...
Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede
This may be a little niche, but it’s something that often stresses me out in the morning, so hopefully it will be of some use to others. My plans for what to wear on a particular day usually don’t account for rain. I might be going int...
Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede
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Hi Craig, I find the Rider's good for warmer weather, hence the shots of me wearing it with just a T-shirt underneath. For umbrellas, anything from a quality maker will be good, perhaps Swaine or James Smith...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s. Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear ...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
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Hi, In general no, I haven't, at least from a style point of view. I have usually stayed with the tailor's preference. However, over time my body has got a little bigger and as a result it has sometimes made sense to cut...
Would you (could you) wear a cowboy boot?
A friend once told me that he gets a kick out of finding an unusual piece of menswear, and working out a way to wear it. Like a challenge: how can he make this esoteric bit of clothing wearable. I’ve never really taken that approach to clothe...
Would you (could you) wear a cowboy boot?
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Parker boots look good. There are others in Texas, see https://www.jbhilltexas.com/ -- apparently recently purchased by another company as per website. "Sir Socks" Chris Meyers said his pointy-toe high-heel boots with to...
Why I’m wearing more belts
In recent months I’ve been wearing belts more often, after years of hardly doing so at all. I never wore them with tailoring, preferring the clean, elegant look of an unfettered waistband with side adjustors. And I didn’t even wear the...
Why I’m wearing more belts
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Perhaps a touch, perhaps I'm a little in between those two...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
As with our previous article in this series – on bags – five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth and for ra...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
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If it's really cold, a down parka. If less so, then yes a waxed jacket or something like a McCoy's deck jacket...
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
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I had my colours done years ago, but to be honest I can't remember. As we discussed here, I'm not sure it's that useful On picking five, have you seen the articles on that subject in the Wardrobe Building guide?...
