How to correct a flattened lapel
Sometimes the lapels of a jacket can get squashed in the wardrobe, making them fold at a point they’re not supposed to (the ‘break point’). It happens particularly with jackets that have more intentional roll, such as a ‘thr...
How to correct a flattened lapel
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Hi JC, That's lovely to hear, thank you. The answer is unfortunately no, not really. Where the lapel rolls to is largely set by the tension in the collar and the position of the canvas inside. The lighter the jacket is, ...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
Wearing a sweater over the shoulders has a lot of negative connotations. But if you can get away with it - because of your style, of where you are, or just because of your personality - it’s incredibly practical. This suit I wore at Pitti earl...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
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Understood Rob. I personally find it doesn't really fall off, but then it depends what I'm doing that day - I'm just walking around town and chatting, not playing with the kids. And, if I tie the sleeves I don't find the...
The cartridge bag: A small eccentricity
Over the past few months, I’ve been enjoying wearing this vintage cartridge bag as an occasional day bag - for when I don’t need to carry a computer or other bulky things. It started when a reader asked about a crossbody bag he could ca...
The cartridge bag: A small eccentricity
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Yes, very true. I still use it a little bit, but if anything it's even more limited...
New pink and green-stripe oxford shirts
Two new stripes in the PS Oxford shirt have been added to the shop today: a light pink and a pale green . As is often the case with PS products, they have been chosen as particularly understated, easy-to-wear styles. The pink is the same as that us...
New pink and green-stripe oxford shirts
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I'd say blue in that case. Zephyr is lovely but it's still a fine material and will look quite dressy/smart...
Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy
This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring. Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent ) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual ch...
Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy
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Yes, absolutely. You just might want to go with different colours, as you suggest. Pink is great, as I'm wearing in the Assisi review. Cream too, or a brown stripe or pink stripe. There aren't as many colours that are ni...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
Please read part one of this article, here , before this one. Without that context, setting out my priorities, this summary will likely be misleading. Everyone is different, wants different things from bespoke, and simply gets on with people differ...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
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Yes Chittleborough were great, but this is obviously a very short list. I found I preferred the Sexton cut a little, and loved Michael Browne most of all for cut and finish in that style...
Esquire ‘Five Fits’ feature: Tonal sh...
Esquire magazine in the US recently profiled me for a column - their 'five fits' feature . It's run by Christopher Fenimore, who has been into menswear for about the same time as I have, although he was a little younger when he started. It was fun ...
Esquire ‘Five Fits’ feature: Tonal sh...
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Andrew ,I have worn my C and J Chelsea boots (no 11) in three dutch winters and have dry feet. They are leather grain and have a vibram sole. Once I had a slight dampness of sock, but I was cycling in a true winter storm...
A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches
I’ve been buying and wearing more corduroy in recent years - including the new dark-brown jacket above, from Sartoria Ciardi . I think the reason is that if you’re not dressing for a formal office, worsted is likely to feel out of place...
A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches
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thank you!...
Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede
This may be a little niche, but it’s something that often stresses me out in the morning, so hopefully it will be of some use to others. My plans for what to wear on a particular day usually don’t account for rain. I might be going int...
Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede
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Not breaking in, no, but it isn't the best last shape for many feet, and I have found that hard (other Alden lasts are often easier, eg Van)...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s. Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear ...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
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Interesting, thanks Guy...
Would you (could you) wear a cowboy boot?
A friend once told me that he gets a kick out of finding an unusual piece of menswear, and working out a way to wear it. Like a challenge: how can he make this esoteric bit of clothing wearable. I’ve never really taken that approach to clothe...
Would you (could you) wear a cowboy boot?
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It's something I should probably write a full post about. But in brief, absolutely you can protect designs, and people do. The IP right is usually a design, copyright or trade mark though, not a patent. And absolutely mo...
Why I’m wearing more belts
In recent months I’ve been wearing belts more often, after years of hardly doing so at all. I never wore them with tailoring, preferring the clean, elegant look of an unfettered waistband with side adjustors. And I didn’t even wear the...
Why I’m wearing more belts
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Either could work. With workwear chinos the point about unused loops doesn't apply anywhere near as much, and doesn't really at all with jeans...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
As with our previous article in this series – on bags – five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
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Completely understood, thanks Alex. In case it's useful with anything else, we will be announcing our London pop-up next week and William Crabtree will have all our coats in their shop during the month of October...
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
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I'd go with grey herringbone - see the article on a capsule like that here...
White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear
White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association. Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirt unbuttoned to the navel. Or skintight ripped ...
White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear
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Have a look at Rubato, they're great and there's an ecru and a pure white...
Knitwear and necklines – with Ciardi overco...
My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again. It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a bespoke suit) they are limited to...
Knitwear and necklines – with Ciardi overco...
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A 40 usually...
The guide to jacket pockets
As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn&rsq...
The guide to jacket pockets
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Sounds like a good plan. Best of both worlds ! Thanks Simon....
The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)
A couple of weeks ago, we looked at a relatively casual outfit - and how elements such as a baseball cap or bright knitwear could make classic menswear less formal, with some Ivy influences. Today I’d like to talk about one element that I find...
The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)
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I'm afraid it's one of those late nights of fretting over what to wear for event again, Simon. The idea of a T-shirt under a shirt peaked my interest as a potential de-formaliser. One google search later and I find mysel...
Artisan of the year 2020: Sartoria Ciardi
Artisan of the year 2020: Sartoria Ciardi Enzo Ciardi has a lovely smile. It’s big (but then he’s big), it’s warm, it’s friendly. It’s extremely welcoming. And best of all, I can enjoy that smile fully. Beca...
Artisan of the year 2020: Sartoria Ciardi
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They should be on the original article featuring the jacket here...
Introducing: The white PS Oxford
On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age. The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...
Introducing: The white PS Oxford
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No worries - it should be very soon. I assume you're on the waiting list?...
A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka
This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on Friday with an interview about...
A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka
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Thanks M. I find it too bulky, myself, if all buttoned and zipped up. But just buttoning the top couple, and leaving the rest open to move around (and therefore not zipped, as you say) is a great look....
Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...
I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on...
Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...
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I see, thank you, Simon....
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neap...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
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No, sorry Ken...
White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartori...
Wearing a white tie with a blue shirt is something that makes perfect sense in Naples. To a certain extent, wearing sugary-pink jackets and lapis-blue tailoring makes sense too. It's just sunny so much of the time, even in winter - and that sun is s...
White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartori...
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No I haven't, sorry Greg...
Vintage gold cuff
My view on jewellery has always been that it should be something special, certainly emotionally and probably financially too. Men wear so little of it, and it is such a statement to do so, that it should be precious. Not a cheap leather bracelet, in...
Vintage gold cuff
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I think avoid anything that is meant to be a signet ring unless you have a reason to wear one. It looks like you're pretending to be something you're not if you do. But most other discreet rings can look nice - if you ca...
