A Neapolitan ‘caban’ coat, from Luca Museo
What is a ‘caban’ coat? Well, it's meant different things at different points in time, but it has a particular meaning as a sartorial version of a pea coat in Naples. The caban was originally something European sailors called a coat the...
A Neapolitan ‘caban’ coat, from Luca Museo
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Not with the same style points, no...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
I had this overcoat made earlier in the year by Sartoria Ciardi from Naples, but have only had a chance to wear it consistently the past few months. The cloth is CT17 from Fox - a 20/21oz wool in their overcoatings bunch. I was confident of the sty...
Learning lessons: Light-grey overcoat and horsebi...
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Most of the time, yes...
Bryceland’s made-to-order chambray shirt: Review
Made-to-order services are useful with workwear shirts, where bespoke makers can rarely replicate the construction or the materials. We covered one such service recently, from The Anthology , and today we’re reviewing another, from Bryceland&r...
Bryceland’s made-to-order chambray shirt: Review
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Thanks Tom, pleased do say hello next time if you can! It's always nice. Happens maybe once or twice a week, but it's always lovely...
Made-to-order Anthology shirt: Review
The Anthology has an interesting shirt offering that I only really discovered recently. Perhaps because it’s not that clearly flagged up on the website. You can get most of their shirts to order, selecting a size that determines the chest and...
Made-to-order Anthology shirt: Review
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That good be great...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
In the past few months on Permanent Style, we’ve shown a few outfits that are a little more unusual than perhaps typical: a notch or two further along the subtle/showy scale . The Art du Lin suit at Pitti probably falls into that category, as...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
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I think I'd leave it up to them and you're feeling when you try it Callum, rather than try and pre-judge it...
Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown
This ulster-style overcoat was made for me by Sartoria Ciardi , the Neapolitan tailor, in 2020. Although I’ve had a few pieces of tailoring from Ciardi in the past five years, this is my only coat from them. It has proved to be one ...
Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown
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Yes, that's what I meant. Thanks!...
How I organise outfits – and get my style i...
I know I spend too much time looking at clothes I want, and not enough at ways to wear the ones I have. There are many reasons for this. There’s the familiar retail fix, the fact I wear a range of styles, the fact that I can afford them (and ...
How I organise outfits – and get my style i...
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I forgot to add, regarding an inventory or app, that I don’t use Social Media, so ideally a non fee app or something similar. Maybe someone has other ideas....
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
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Yes, I'd say a tie isn't necessary but that sounds nice Jack. I would play with the jacket done up and undone and see how you feel...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona . A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year . It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of their linen, which is slubbier b...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
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I'd say brown is probably right, followed closely by the natural. I wouldn't go navy with gold buttons. My only concern would be that I haven't seen that material made up as a bespoke jacket, so I'm not sure how casual i...
How to correct a flattened lapel
Sometimes the lapels of a jacket can get squashed in the wardrobe, making them fold at a point they’re not supposed to (the ‘break point’). It happens particularly with jackets that have more intentional roll, such as a ‘thr...
How to correct a flattened lapel
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I'm not sure anything can be done on a finished jacket just with an iron unfortunately - with the work I've seen, it's done before the collar is set by stitching it all together...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
Wearing a sweater over the shoulders has a lot of negative connotations. But if you can get away with it - because of your style, of where you are, or just because of your personality - it’s incredibly practical. This suit I wore at Pitti earl...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
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Understood Rob. I personally find it doesn't really fall off, but then it depends what I'm doing that day - I'm just walking around town and chatting, not playing with the kids. And, if I tie the sleeves I don't find the...
The cartridge bag: A small eccentricity
Over the past few months, I’ve been enjoying wearing this vintage cartridge bag as an occasional day bag - for when I don’t need to carry a computer or other bulky things. It started when a reader asked about a crossbody bag he could ca...
The cartridge bag: A small eccentricity
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I like Kinto ones, very subtle and functional...
New pink and green-stripe oxford shirts
Two new stripes in the PS Oxford shirt have been added to the shop today: a light pink and a pale green . As is often the case with PS products, they have been chosen as particularly understated, easy-to-wear styles. The pink is the same as that us...
New pink and green-stripe oxford shirts
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We received half, now waiting on the other half.......
Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy
This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring. Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent ) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual ch...
Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy
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Both are good - I actually really like the first ones, the washed black, a lot. Really nice with navy on top...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
Please read part one of this article, here , before this one. Without that context, setting out my priorities, this summary will likely be misleading. Everyone is different, wants different things from bespoke, and simply gets on with people differ...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
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I just had a Gieves suit made and about to have one made by Fitzgerald. Curious what you see as their respective strengths and why you’d go with one versus the other for particular garments....
Esquire ‘Five Fits’ feature: Tonal sh...
Esquire magazine in the US recently profiled me for a column - their 'five fits' feature . It's run by Christopher Fenimore, who has been into menswear for about the same time as I have, although he was a little younger when he started. It was fun ...
Esquire ‘Five Fits’ feature: Tonal sh...
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It's our one - the PS Linen Harrington. Being re-released next week.......
A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches
I’ve been buying and wearing more corduroy in recent years - including the new dark-brown jacket above, from Sartoria Ciardi . I think the reason is that if you’re not dressing for a formal office, worsted is likely to feel out of place...
A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches
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Yes I think those sound nice and could be worn with either. Cream trousers are so versatile - if you like wearing them and they're not too showy for you and where you are, they're great in that respect...
Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede
This may be a little niche, but it’s something that often stresses me out in the morning, so hopefully it will be of some use to others. My plans for what to wear on a particular day usually don’t account for rain. I might be going int...
Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede
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Hi Craig, I find the Rider's good for warmer weather, hence the shots of me wearing it with just a T-shirt underneath. For umbrellas, anything from a quality maker will be good, perhaps Swaine or James Smith...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s. Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear ...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
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Yes I think so, and that looks like a nice colour...
Would you (could you) wear a cowboy boot?
A friend once told me that he gets a kick out of finding an unusual piece of menswear, and working out a way to wear it. Like a challenge: how can he make this esoteric bit of clothing wearable. I’ve never really taken that approach to clothe...
Would you (could you) wear a cowboy boot?
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It's something I should probably write a full post about. But in brief, absolutely you can protect designs, and people do. The IP right is usually a design, copyright or trade mark though, not a patent. And absolutely mo...
Why I’m wearing more belts
In recent months I’ve been wearing belts more often, after years of hardly doing so at all. I never wore them with tailoring, preferring the clean, elegant look of an unfettered waistband with side adjustors. And I didn’t even wear the...
Why I’m wearing more belts
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Shame they didn't dye the holes. Just got my hubby a fabulous oak bark tanned belt with a C shaped buckle from Morgan + Wells in York for Christmas and he loves it. It's very well made (and they dye the holes)....
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
As with our previous article in this series – on bags – five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth...
If you had five coats: A versatile selection
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Yes, you're never going to have an overcoat that's different to every colour of trouser...
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
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I had my colours done years ago, but to be honest I can't remember. As we discussed here, I'm not sure it's that useful On picking five, have you seen the articles on that subject in the Wardrobe Building guide?...
White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear
White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association. Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirt unbuttoned to the navel. Or skintight ripped ...
White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear
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It depends a lot on the material Max - how heavy or coarse it is - but I think you're probably looking at wearing them in the same way as these jeans, yes, unless the shape is much bigger and wider...
Knitwear and necklines – with Ciardi overco...
My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again. It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a bespoke suit) they are limited to...
Knitwear and necklines – with Ciardi overco...
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Matching standard lining as I usually have...
