Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown

January 15th 2024

  This ulster-style overcoat was made for me by Sartoria Ciardi , the Neapolitan tailor, in 2020. Although I’ve had a few pieces of tailoring from Ciardi in the past five years, this is my only coat from them. It has proved to be one ...

Sartoria Ciardi ulster coat: Style Breakdown

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It's at waist level, straight...

CoatsJanuary 15th 2024

How I organise outfits – and get my style i...

January 3rd 2024

I know I spend too much time looking at clothes I want, and not enough at ways to wear the ones I have. There are many reasons for this. There’s the familiar retail fix, the fact I wear a range of styles, the fact that I can afford them (and ...

How I organise outfits – and get my style i...

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I forgot to add, regarding an inventory or app, that I don’t use Social Media, so ideally a non fee app or something similar. Maybe someone has other ideas....

StyleJanuary 3rd 2024

Casual suits with collared knits: A new default

November 10th 2023

I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have...

Casual suits with collared knits: A new default

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The Faloni ones don't, I've tried them, and I don't know about the Saman ones but I seem to recall they were better but still not great. It's a problem we tried to solve for a reason unfortunately. The only other ones I'...

Knitwear - SuitsNovember 10th 2023

Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi

September 27th 2023

This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona . A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year . It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of their linen, which is slubbier b...

Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi

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I'd say brown is probably right, followed closely by the natural. I wouldn't go navy with gold buttons. My only concern would be that I haven't seen that material made up as a bespoke jacket, so I'm not sure how casual i...

Denim - JacketsSeptember 27th 2023

How to correct a flattened lapel

May 26th 2023

Sometimes the lapels of a jacket can get squashed in the wardrobe, making them fold at a point they’re not supposed to (the ‘break point’). It happens particularly with jackets that have more intentional roll, such as a ‘thr...

How to correct a flattened lapel

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I'm not sure anything can be done on a finished jacket just with an iron unfortunately - with the work I've seen, it's done before the collar is set by stitching it all together...

Alterations and careMay 26th 2023

The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders

April 12th 2023

Wearing a sweater over the shoulders has a lot of negative connotations. But if you can get away with it - because of your style, of where you are, or just because of your personality - it’s incredibly practical. This suit I wore at Pitti earl...

The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders

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Understood Rob. I personally find it doesn't really fall off, but then it depends what I'm doing that day - I'm just walking around town and chatting, not playing with the kids. And, if I tie the sleeves I don't find the...

Knitwear - SuitsApril 12th 2023

The cartridge bag: A small eccentricity

March 31st 2023

Over the past few months, I’ve been enjoying wearing this vintage cartridge bag as an occasional day bag - for when I don’t need to carry a computer or other bulky things. It started when a reader asked about a crossbody bag he could ca...

The cartridge bag: A small eccentricity

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Yes, very true. I still use it a little bit, but if anything it's even more limited...

BagsMarch 31st 2023

New pink and green-stripe oxford shirts

March 27th 2023

Two new stripes in the PS Oxford shirt have been added to the shop today: a light pink and a pale green . As is often the case with PS products, they have been chosen as particularly understated, easy-to-wear styles. The pink is the same as that us...

New pink and green-stripe oxford shirts

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Nice to hear! The latest we heard was that the T-shirts were made in Japan, and going through quality control. It's been so long!...

ShirtsMarch 27th 2023

Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy

March 20th 2023

This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring. Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent ) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual ch...

Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy

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Yes, presuming it's dark enough...

Coats - KnitwearMarch 20th 2023

Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)

January 18th 2023

Please read part one of this article, here , before this one. Without that context, setting out my priorities, this summary will likely be misleading. Everyone is different, wants different things from bespoke, and simply gets on with people differ...

Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)

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Not much I'm afraid Jerry. While I know them a little, I've never had anything made or had a reason to go in...

January 18th 2023

Esquire ‘Five Fits’ feature: Tonal sh...

January 4th 2023

Esquire magazine in the US recently profiled me for a column - their 'five fits' feature . It's run by Christopher Fenimore, who has been into menswear for about the same time as I have, although he was a little younger when he started. It was fun ...

Esquire ‘Five Fits’ feature: Tonal sh...

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It's our one - the PS Linen Harrington. Being re-released next week.......

ShirtsJanuary 4th 2023

A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches

November 9th 2022

I’ve been buying and wearing more corduroy in recent years - including the new dark-brown jacket above, from Sartoria Ciardi . I think the reason is that if you’re not dressing for a formal office, worsted is likely to feel out of place...

A guide to corduroy: Colours, wales, fibres, bunches

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The Fox ecru is beautiful, but a little sharp and unusual to really be versatile. I'd rather have a cream cord today probably. Then for something more casual I'd wear chinos...

ClothNovember 9th 2022

Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede

May 9th 2022

This may be a little niche, but it’s something that often stresses me out in the morning, so hopefully it will be of some use to others. My plans for what to wear on a particular day usually don’t account for rain. I might be going int...

Rain: Cap and cordovan, or felt and suede

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Hey Jack, No, it's a rubber sole but a thinner one...

Coats - HatsMay 9th 2022

A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...

March 9th 2022

In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s. Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear ...

A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...

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It is a little higher, but the same issue is there, it's not as big or as structured as a shrit collar, so is never going to behave in the same way...

Knitwear - StyleMarch 9th 2022

Would you (could you) wear a cowboy boot?

February 16th 2022

A friend once told me that he gets a kick out of finding an unusual piece of menswear, and working out a way to wear it. Like a challenge: how can he make this esoteric bit of clothing wearable. I’ve never really taken that approach to clothe...

Would you (could you) wear a cowboy boot?

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It's something I should probably write a full post about. But in brief, absolutely you can protect designs, and people do. The IP right is usually a design, copyright or trade mark though, not a patent. And absolutely mo...

ShoesFebruary 16th 2022

Why I’m wearing more belts

January 5th 2022

In recent months I’ve been wearing belts more often, after years of hardly doing so at all. I never wore them with tailoring, preferring the clean, elegant look of an unfettered waistband with side adjustors. And I didn’t even wear the...

Why I’m wearing more belts

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I did, yes...

Belts and wallets - StyleJanuary 5th 2022

If you had five coats: A versatile selection

December 1st 2021

  As with our previous article in this series – on bags – five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth...

If you had five coats: A versatile selection

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Yes, contrast is usually good, though it's also not the end of the world if the two are the same - otherwise you'd need as many coat colours as you had suit colours, which isn't practical. If most of your suits are navy,...

CoatsDecember 1st 2021

The jackets I picked for winter

October 20th 2021

A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...

The jackets I picked for winter

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I had my colours done years ago, but to be honest I can't remember. As we discussed here, I'm not sure it's that useful On picking five, have you seen the articles on that subject in the Wardrobe Building guide?...

JacketsOctober 20th 2021

White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear

April 7th 2021

White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association. Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirt unbuttoned to the navel. Or skintight ripped ...

White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear

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I recently bought a pair of ecru selvedge jeans to go with an olive sport coat, and came across this article looking for other ways to wear them. Very informative, thanks, and Go Bears!...

Denim - StyleApril 7th 2021

Knitwear and necklines – with Ciardi overco...

October 23rd 2020

My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again. It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a bespoke suit) they are limited to...

Knitwear and necklines – with Ciardi overco...

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It is a hard thing to define, for me at least. I think better just to try with white or off-white and see what difference you get on your own skin...

CoatsOctober 23rd 2020

The guide to jacket pockets

July 27th 2020

  As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn&rsq...

The guide to jacket pockets

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A little bit fashion perhaps, also a little traditional like a riding jacket (where the slanted pocket came from). The slanted pocket also doesn't look that casual, like a patch would for example. At the least, I'd sugge...

Jackets - SuitsJuly 27th 2020

The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)

March 18th 2020

A couple of weeks ago, we looked at a relatively casual outfit - and how elements such as a baseball cap or bright knitwear could make classic menswear less formal, with some Ivy influences. Today I’d like to talk about one element that I find...

The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)

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I'm afraid it's one of those late nights of fretting over what to wear for event again, Simon. The idea of a T-shirt under a shirt peaked my interest as a potential de-formaliser. One google search later and I find mysel...

Casual clothingMarch 18th 2020

Artisan of the year 2020: Sartoria Ciardi

March 2nd 2020

Artisan of the year 2020: Sartoria Ciardi   Enzo Ciardi has a lovely smile. It’s big (but then he’s big), it’s warm, it’s friendly. It’s extremely welcoming. And best of all, I can enjoy that smile fully. Beca...

Artisan of the year 2020: Sartoria Ciardi

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Thank you for the reply, Simon. I used the contact form on their site, but just looked again and it turns out there’s an email address listed there as well. Hopefully my Italian hasn’t deteriorated too much, and fing...

March 2nd 2020

Introducing: The white PS Oxford

January 13th 2020

On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age. The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...

Introducing: The white PS Oxford

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Hi Ayush I think that's a risk with all colours, but, I agree, the effect might be exaggerated with unusual colours because the standout more. In the example you've given, I think it's not so much the colour (which I don...

ShirtsJanuary 13th 2020

A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka

October 14th 2019

This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on Friday with an interview about...

A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka

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Thanks M. I find it too bulky, myself, if all buttoned and zipped up. But just buttoning the top couple, and leaving the rest open to move around (and therefore not zipped, as you say) is a great look....

CoatsOctober 14th 2019