White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear
White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association. Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirt unbuttoned to the navel. Or skintight ripped ...
White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear
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Thanks!...
Knitwear and necklines – with Ciardi overco...
My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again. It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a bespoke suit) they are limited to...
Knitwear and necklines – with Ciardi overco...
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Matching standard lining as I usually have...
The guide to jacket pockets
As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn’t covere...
The guide to jacket pockets
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Yes, I think flaps work with their style as they're kind of playing with the smart and casual overlap. Mostly tailors will want to order cloth for you, so it's a supplier they know, and they'll know how much cloth. The a...
The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)
A couple of weeks ago, we looked at a relatively casual outfit - and how elements such as a baseball cap or bright knitwear could make classic menswear less formal, with some Ivy influences. Today I’d like to talk about one element that I find...
The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)
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Not at all, an interesting and useful view Stephan. I would disagree myself, but perhaps with slightly more casual things it could be better, as you say....
Artisan of the year 2020: Sartoria Ciardi
Artisan of the year 2020: Sartoria Ciardi Enzo Ciardi has a lovely smile. It’s big (but then he’s big), it’s warm, it’s friendly. It’s extremely welcoming. And best of all, I can enjoy that smile fully. Because when he...
Artisan of the year 2020: Sartoria Ciardi
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I think that would be nice Alexander...
Introducing: The white PS Oxford
On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age. The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...
Introducing: The white PS Oxford
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Cream can be, yes, particularly if you want to wear it casually mostly, though I wear it mostly in things like brushed cottons or cord rather than oxfords...
A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka
This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on Friday with an interview about...
A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka
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Nice, thanks Gary. I dip into that now and again, sometimes it's not all relevant to me. Thanks for the rec...
Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...
I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on...
Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...
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The English soft drape is always going to be sharper and smarter than Neapolitan, no matter how soft it is. For something casual I'd generally recommend Neapolitan. You can compare them in our Guide to Tailor Styles...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neap...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
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Sure. When I say the shoulders are still strong I mean: - There is a little bit of padding in the shoulders, so they still make a firm straight line - There is a little bit of roping, so the shoulder line continues into ...
White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartori...
Wearing a white tie with a blue shirt is something that makes perfect sense in Naples. To a certain extent, wearing sugary-pink jackets and lapis-blue tailoring makes sense too. It's just sunny so much of the time, even in winter - and that sun is s...
White tie and blue shirt: Sunny formal in Sartori...
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Nice to hear. I'd try some dark, rich colours like purple, burgundy or possibly green...
Vintage gold cuff
My view on jewellery has always been that it should be something special, certainly emotionally and probably financially too. Men wear so little of it, and it is such a statement to do so, that it should be precious. Not a cheap leather bracelet, in...
Vintage gold cuff
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Certainly not too sensitive, no, that would be an interesting one. And on the jewellery too, thanks...
Video: Sartoria Ciardi in conversation
This is the film of our small presentation with Sartoria Ciardi a couple of weeks ago - at Mark's Club in London. We had 25 readers in the audience, with Poppy Charles kindly translating, and the result was a nice, intimate-feeling event with the Ci...
Video: Sartoria Ciardi in conversation
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Very nice and pleasant video. Grazie mille)...
An evening with Ciardi
In a couple of weeks (Wednesday, March 7) Sartoria Ciardi will be coming to London for the first time. They will be holding a trunk show all day on Thursday 8th, but we thought it would also be nice to have an event the night before. So on the Wed...
An evening with Ciardi
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No...
Sartoria Ciardi Neapolitan bespoke suit: Review
A friend used to say that he knew whether a suit was going to be good at the first, basted fitting. I’m not sure I entirely agree. The first fitting is largely for the tailor, to make sure the fundamentals of balance etc are correct. It is at ...
Sartoria Ciardi Neapolitan bespoke suit: Review
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I haven't I'm afraid Shahab...
Sartoria Ciardi – The next generation
Renato Ciardi, who sadly passed away earlier this year, was truly one of the greats of Neapolitan tailoring. Succession planning is rarely one of a bespoke tailor’s strengths, but fortunately the Ciardi family began planning for this several y...
Sartoria Ciardi – The next generation
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Simon, Shame that Ciardi does travel to the US. Which of the Neapolitan houses do travel to the States?...
