Liverano ulster coat: Style Breakdown
This coat from Liverano & Liverano in Florence has had a bit of an after life, being imitated in this tweed a fair bit, as well as spurring some to have the same coat from Liverano (despite the high cost). It remains one of my abs...
Liverano ulster coat: Style Breakdown
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Thank you James. Next time, we'll be there!...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
*UPDATE: Since this article was published, Brioni has also been tried and reviewed, as has J Mueser* Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton ...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
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Not really I'm afraid - the more formal cut is a little underserved for MTM. It's much easier to get softer Italian stuff, largely because all the factories are there...
My favourite outfits
In our recent article ' Outfits that I got wrong', a reader commented that he would be interested in the opposite post. Not outfits I got right - hopefully there are lots of those - but ones I got the most right, or I like the most. Perhaps, those t...
My favourite outfits
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The Galway just about, the Ambleside yes with the storm welt etc...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its own post. Anyone that has w...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
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I think it might be good to try some darker trousers, yes...
New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...
Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and very relaxed and comfortable....
New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...
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I'd wear all the neturals - black, charcoal, grey, cream, then also beige and a really dark brown...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
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They aren't necessarily different. Camicia just says something about the way the shoulder material and the sleeve connect. Mappina is about how much material is gathered at the top - the shirring. You can have one, both,...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
This groundwork for this video was laid two weeks ago, when we examined the various aspects of the cut of a jacket. It might be worth watching that first, if you haven't already. It showed the most important points of cut and structure, from the siz...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
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There's always one in there - just needs to be controlled now and again!...
Bespoke v Made-to-Measure: Eduardo de Simone jackets
When Eduardo de Simone and I met at his factory last year, we spent a long time talking about the advantages and disadvantages of bespoke and made-to-measure (MTM) tailoring. As a result of them, Eduardo proposed an experiment. He offered to make me...
Bespoke v Made-to-Measure: Eduardo de Simone jackets
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Hand padding refers to the process of creating the canvas with hand stitches, which creates shape in the chest. It is different to whether the jacket is canvassed (which just means there is canvas in there, half or full,...
Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo d...
One of the most useful things in this day and age is a jacket that can be worn equally well with jeans and with formal, tailored trousers. I’ve talked about this in the past, but in summary I find that for a jacket to work with jeans it need...
Jacket and jeans: vintage cashmere from Eduardo d...
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The line of the lapel is straight, there is no belly on it (curving outwards). This is standard for Naples but not standard, for example, in London. It is a little wider than average, yes, though again that's standard in...
Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory an...
I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back in 2011. Such factories do star...
Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory an...
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No, it has some light structure in there. Yes, there is pick stitching...
