The summer tie
I don't tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful.
The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather than primary reds or yellows.
That would be with a blue shirt and navy suit, in what I referred to years ago as the ‘Lawyer Background’ (as so many lawyers I worked with seemed to wear the combination).
However, the strong light of summer makes one consider brighter colours in everything, from jackets to shirts to ties. And so I’ve been experimenting with lighter neckwear.
The colour I’ve liked the most is the slightly muted yellow, pictured top and below. It’s obviously summery, but not as strong as most yellows.
I saw it last summer at Drake’s, and managed to pick one up this summer at the Haberdasher Street factory store.
Shibumi, Viola Milano and others also do similar yellows, though most are now sold out as we move into winter. (And yet it's bright and 25 degrees outside: the increasingly odd-feeling timing of fashion seasons.)
Viola has the widest summer range currently.
I’ve also found that the best tailoring for these ties to sit against is usually in lighter colours.
You generally want a white shirt, or at least a white/blue stripe, and this creates contrast. If the suit is dark as well, the contrast can be too much.
In the image with my lime-green tie above, for example, the navy suit would probably be too dark with a yellow tie. A lighter and subtler colour like the taupe-cotton suit I’m wearing is better.
(Incidentally, the only navy suit I’ve found this works with is my Musella-Dembech cotton, because the cotton makes the navy paler and chalkier. Linen might have a similar effect.)
Among wool suits, a light-grey high-twist is a great option - again, light but muted. Andreas Weinas wears such a suit in the image of us together, above.
If this kind of grey has a slightly brown cast, as Andreas's does, it will suit warmer colours like browns, oranges and greens.
I've also found madder can makes a nice fabric for a summer tie, because the chalky surface naturally tones down the colours.
Among normal printed silks, my other favourite colours are pale blue and mint green. Examples below - all from Viola Milano.
In the images alongside that Caliendo cotton suit and Drake’s tie, I am also wearing my first bespoke shirt from 100 Hands (linen/cotton mix) and a white-linen handkerchief.
The shoes are the ‘Crompton’ model of hatchgrain loafer from Gaziano & Girling (below). This was initially just available made to order, but is now stocked ready-to-wear due to demand (which is amazing).
The shots were taken at Huntsman during our recent reader dinner.