My shirt collars

January 27th 2021

  When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars , a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear. In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, particularly as we&rsqu...

My shirt collars

Match in comments:
It depends on the shirt - whether it suits the style (eg good on an oxford, not on a western shirt), and whether it suits the collar style (point collar yes, cutaway collar no)...

Shirts - January 27th 2021

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review

July 24th 2020

This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer this bespoke tailoring servi...

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review

Match in comments:
No worries James, always happy to help on any piece. Unfortunately I don't have the number (I have looked in the past) though. Also bear in mind bunches are often changed every 3-5 years, so it may not be available any m...

Cloth - JacketsJuly 24th 2020

Adamley hand-screen printing, Macclesfield

January 10th 2020

Let me set the scene. Macclesfield is a small English market town, and it’s a grey day. The bright-green casentino overcoat of Benedikt Fries, as he walks towards us, rather stands out. Photographer Alex Natt and I are watching him approach f...

Adamley hand-screen printing, Macclesfield

Match in comments:
Great article. A breeze of fresh air and a good distraction from day to day screen printing technicalities. As a screen printer, I would like to see a part 2, diving more into the technics used to achieve such beautiful ...

Hanks and scarves - TiesJanuary 10th 2020

The dark shirt

August 26th 2019

Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think. It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of salesman. If done right, though...

The dark shirt

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Dark blue, but no not as strong as some dark shirts...

SuitsAugust 26th 2019

The rules and how to break them 9: Tan shoes with...

December 21st 2018

  The starting point for any decision about what shoes to wear with an outfit, is that they should be darker than the trousers. So with a charcoal trouser, a black shoe or very dark brown. With a mid-grey trouser, dark or mid-brown (below). ...

The rules and how to break them 9: Tan shoes with...

Match in comments:
Pleasure, thanks for letting me know...

Shoes - StyleDecember 21st 2018

The summer tie

August 17th 2018

I don’t tend to wear brightly coloured ties. Too often they’re brash and loud, where a dark simple tie would be more tasteful. The only time I’ve regularly worn them is in unusual colours like lime green, rather than primary red...

The summer tie

Match in comments:
This might seem hilarious, but on grounds of comfort, I’ve actually worn a bow tie to a fine restaurant in Belgium which was way more comfortable. 1. Less weight… I sometimes notice that a tie can be like a heavy wei...

Style - TiesAugust 17th 2018

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...

July 25th 2018

Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particula...

Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...

Match in comments:
No, the A&S will be better, but that's clear from the price too. And the difference will be mostly in the fineness of the linen, so it depends whether that matters to you...

Casual clothing - ClothJuly 25th 2018

Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like...

March 26th 2018

  This is the latest in my somewhat infrequent series on the style of my favourite people in the menswear industry. For those that want to catch up, the previous instalments have been: Personal style: How to dress like Bruce Boyer (and part ...

Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like...

Match in comments:
Yes, texture is certainly important, but pattern where you can will make the biggest difference to avoiding that look - in jackets but also in shirts. Try a bolder patterned striped shirt like an awning stripe for exampl...

StyleMarch 26th 2018

Permanent Style, Shibumi and Bennett Winch at Ves...

December 26th 2017

For all those coming to Pitti in January, there will be a display of some Permanent Style products at Sartoria Vestrucci on the Thursday, followed by drinks. Luca Avitabile will be there, offering wholesale on the Friday Polos, and I will be helpin...

Permanent Style, Shibumi and Bennett Winch at Ves...

Match in comments:
Around four weeks?...

December 26th 2017

Shibumi ties, Burgos shirts and tebas – in ...

December 15th 2017

I’ve noticed in the past year that a lot of my favourite ties are from Shibumi. They’re always on the end of the rail; they always get picked up first. Yet I haven’t written about them for quite a while. Having Benedikt (below) in ...

Shibumi ties, Burgos shirts and tebas – in ...

Match in comments:
I always order shorter ties made to measure, which are not offered by many tiemakers. Shibumi offers them. But they are terribly slow with delivery. I ordered ties at the beginning of March and, after reminding them, rec...

Shirts - TiesDecember 15th 2017

The Pop-Up Shop is back!

November 1st 2017

I'm very excited to say that the Permanent Style Presents pop-up shop will be back this winter, opening in two weeks on November 15th. We've switched approach slightly, using a slightly smaller space but staying open much longer (5 weeks) - so hop...

The Pop-Up Shop is back!

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Yes, we have most of the remaining pieces in the pop up....

November 1st 2017

Video: How to look after your suit

October 21st 2015

  This is the first in a series of videos – made in conjunction with Richard Anderson – on maintaining, brushing and pressing a suit. [It’s worth enlarging to full screen if you want to watch it all] They are p...

Video: How to look after your suit

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How wide should such a "wide-shouldered" hanger for suits be?...

Suits - VideoOctober 21st 2015

Fun with flowers: wearing a buttonhole

August 10th 2015

I like wearing a boutonniere – or buttonhole – on more formal or celebratory occasions. Mostly, I think, because it is another opportunity to play with colour. Having come up with a pleasing combination of suit, shirt, tie and ...

Fun with flowers: wearing a buttonhole

Match in comments:
That sounds good on the overall outfit, but yes I'd be very concerned about the strong red and green. Much better to have one of them more subtle...

StyleAugust 10th 2015

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

July 20th 2015

At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a ‘shirt’ sleeve and patch pockets to make it c...

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

Match in comments:
Cotton chinos are the easiest, certainly. Then denim. I'd say cord next, then linen but only on sunny days. Cav twill is a little hard and my cream flannels hardly get worn at all. Good question!...

Jackets - ShoesJuly 20th 2015

Green, shantung, club (tie)

July 16th 2014

Dark green is a subtle and versatile tie colour. You’re not surprised I think that, right? After all I sing the praises of green at every opportunity. But broad truths bear repeating. With an outfit like the one above, navy would be the s...

Green, shantung, club (tie)

Match in comments:
They're a little informal for a suit, but in a dark colour perhaps with a slightly more casual suit, like a flannel...

Style - TiesJuly 16th 2014