Building a wardrobe: Shoes

February 15th 2017

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs ...

Building a wardrobe: Shoes

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs ...

ShoesFebruary 15th 2017

Staples for a hot climate – Reader question

December 28th 2016

Dear Simon, I recently read your 2014 article, ' The staples of a good wardrobe' and was wondering how you would modify it for warmer climes like Hong Kong and Singapore? Grey flannel isn’t a great option for mos...

Staples for a hot climate – Reader question

Dear Simon, I recently read your 2014 article, ' The staples of a good wardrobe' and was wondering how you would modify it for warmer climes like Hong Kong and Singapore? Grey flannel isn’t a great option for mos...

Style - TailoringDecember 28th 2016

Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers (and the bea...

September 23rd 2016

The older I get, the more I wear well-made clothes, and (most importantly) the more I think about clothes, the simpler I seem to dress. I am rarely without my navy grenadine tie. I now have Crispaire trousers in three ...

Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers (and the bea...

The older I get, the more I wear well-made clothes, and (most importantly) the more I think about clothes, the simpler I seem to dress. I am rarely without my navy grenadine tie. I now have Crispaire trousers in three ...

Loafer - ShoesSeptember 23rd 2016

Gaziano & Girling celebrate 10 years

September 16th 2016

Launching a brand is not hard. Someone does it in our area every week, and is nice enough to email to let me know. However, launching a brand, making it a success as bespoke, then launching ready-to-wear, setting up yo...

Gaziano & Girling celebrate 10 years

Launching a brand is not hard. Someone does it in our area every week, and is nice enough to email to let me know. However, launching a brand, making it a success as bespoke, then launching ready-to-wear, setting up yo...

ShoesSeptember 16th 2016

Scarf outfits: Solito, Cifonelli, Anderson & S...

January 18th 2016

Several readers asked what I was wearing in the video we produced recently for Begg & Co scarves. So here they are, one by one. In the jacket shots, above: Navy cashmere jacket by Solito. Not a great level of fin...

Scarf outfits: Solito, Cifonelli, Anderson & S...

Several readers asked what I was wearing in the video we produced recently for Begg & Co scarves. So here they are, one by one. In the jacket shots, above: Navy cashmere jacket by Solito. Not a great level of fin...

StyleJanuary 18th 2016

Nineteen of our squares left… (and the virtue...

December 28th 2015

There are just 19 of our cashmere squares left – the beautiful collaboration we started a few weeks ago with Begg & Co. The colours have sold pretty evenly, with 9 navy and 10 ‘natural’ (pictured...

Nineteen of our squares left… (and the virtue...

There are just 19 of our cashmere squares left – the beautiful collaboration we started a few weeks ago with Begg & Co. The colours have sold pretty evenly, with 9 navy and 10 ‘natural’ (pictured...

Oxford - ShoesDecember 28th 2015

Video: How to look after your suit

October 21st 2015

  This is the first in a series of videos – made in conjunction with Richard Anderson – on maintaining, brushing and pressing a suit. [It’s worth enlarging to full screen if you want to watch it a...

Video: How to look after your suit

  This is the first in a series of videos – made in conjunction with Richard Anderson – on maintaining, brushing and pressing a suit. [It’s worth enlarging to full screen if you want to watch it a...

Suits - TailoringOctober 21st 2015

Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal deni...

August 17th 2015

In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together. Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubin...

Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal deni...

In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together. Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubin...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 17th 2015

London: A sartorial city guide

August 12th 2015

I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leave t...

London: A sartorial city guide

I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leave t...

August 12th 2015

A hot, formal evening in Florence

July 27th 2015

Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation. We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against sta...

A hot, formal evening in Florence

Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation. We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against sta...

Loafer - ShoesJuly 27th 2015

Change your laces

May 25th 2015

Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast i...

Change your laces

Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast i...

Derby - OxfordMay 25th 2015

Saint Crispin’s and Camps de Luca visit London

May 8th 2015

  Next week there are two great events to get along to if you can: a trunk show by Saint Crispin’s and a drinks evening with Camps de Luca. The Saint Crispin’s event takes place in the Drake’s s...

Saint Crispin’s and Camps de Luca visit London

  Next week there are two great events to get along to if you can: a trunk show by Saint Crispin’s and a drinks evening with Camps de Luca. The Saint Crispin’s event takes place in the Drake’s s...

Oxford - ShoesMay 8th 2015

Tony Gaziano: How Gaziano & Girling started

April 21st 2015

Last year I interviewed Tony Gaziano for this video, created by Essence Lifestyle (the questions were deliberately removed to create a single narration). It was interesting talking to Tony in more detail about his earl...

Tony Gaziano: How Gaziano & Girling started

Last year I interviewed Tony Gaziano for this video, created by Essence Lifestyle (the questions were deliberately removed to create a single narration). It was interesting talking to Tony in more detail about his earl...

ShoesApril 21st 2015

More materialism, less consumerism

April 8th 2015

A tailor commented to me recently that the problem with people today is they are too materialistic. I think this misses the point slightly – and an exploration of it highlights an important aspect of the approach...

More materialism, less consumerism

A tailor commented to me recently that the problem with people today is they are too materialistic. I think this misses the point slightly – and an exploration of it highlights an important aspect of the approach...

April 8th 2015

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

January 17th 2015

Pierre Corthay Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers. Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy  ...

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

Pierre Corthay Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers. Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy  ...

January 17th 2015

My adelaides patinated

October 24th 2014

Continuing the shoe theme of recent posts, above are my Gaziano & Girling bespoke adelaides after repatination from Thomas at the Savile Row store. (Adelaide refers to the U-shaped section around the laces. The G&...

My adelaides patinated

Continuing the shoe theme of recent posts, above are my Gaziano & Girling bespoke adelaides after repatination from Thomas at the Savile Row store. (Adelaide refers to the U-shaped section around the laces. The G&...

ShoesOctober 24th 2014

The bespoke shoemakers I have known

October 20th 2014

A reader recently asked for my advice on bespoke shoemakers, making me realise I hadn’t done an equivalent to ‘ The tailors I have known’ for shoes. This is the first part of the response to his quest...

The bespoke shoemakers I have known

A reader recently asked for my advice on bespoke shoemakers, making me realise I hadn’t done an equivalent to ‘ The tailors I have known’ for shoes. This is the first part of the response to his quest...

Loafer - OxfordOctober 20th 2014

Gaziano & Girling guests

October 2nd 2014

By request, some of the lovely lovely people at the Gaziano & Girling evening last week. Not that many ties around, but some stunning Chittleborough & Morgan tailoring. Above, Michael Browne in his navy seersuc...

Gaziano & Girling guests

By request, some of the lovely lovely people at the Gaziano & Girling evening last week. Not that many ties around, but some stunning Chittleborough & Morgan tailoring. Above, Michael Browne in his navy seersuc...

StyleOctober 2nd 2014

Gaziano & Girling launches patina service

October 1st 2014

Last week was the launch of the new patina service at Gaziano & Girling on Savile Row. For anyone not familiar with the English shoemaking industry, this is a big step – for the first time, a Northampton make...

Gaziano & Girling launches patina service

Last week was the launch of the new patina service at Gaziano & Girling on Savile Row. For anyone not familiar with the English shoemaking industry, this is a big step – for the first time, a Northampton make...

ShoesOctober 1st 2014

Five tips on bespoke shoes

July 7th 2014

I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I kno...

Five tips on bespoke shoes

I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I kno...

How to - OxfordJuly 7th 2014

Clothes for travel

June 20th 2014

Attire for flying out to Florence this week. Polo shirts make great travel items, particularly long-sleeved under jackets. They are comfortable, cool and versatile, and navy is the smartest option. Just make sure the c...

Clothes for travel

Attire for flying out to Florence this week. Polo shirts make great travel items, particularly long-sleeved under jackets. They are comfortable, cool and versatile, and navy is the smartest option. Just make sure the c...

Loafer - ShoesJune 20th 2014

Gaziano & Girling shop: An opening party for l...

April 28th 2014

When was the last time there was a shop opening on Savile Row to get excited about? One making to the same standard as the great tailors already there? Exactly. Reason enough to shout about the new Gaziano & Girling ...

Gaziano & Girling shop: An opening party for l...

When was the last time there was a shop opening on Savile Row to get excited about? One making to the same standard as the great tailors already there? Exactly. Reason enough to shout about the new Gaziano & Girling ...

ShoesApril 28th 2014

Gaziano & Girling bespoke Adelaides

March 10th 2014

  Tan shoes make such a lovely complement to grey flannel, don’t they? And we know why the socks are green. But of course the most beautiful thing here is the lines of the shoe. The tight waist that causes th...

Gaziano & Girling bespoke Adelaides

  Tan shoes make such a lovely complement to grey flannel, don’t they? And we know why the socks are green. But of course the most beautiful thing here is the lines of the shoe. The tight waist that causes th...

ShoesMarch 10th 2014

The Gaziano & Girling store takes shape

January 30th 2014

OK, it’s only a work site at the moment, but the Gaziano & Girling shop on Savile Row is looking exciting. At number 39, it might be the only shop on the west side of Savile Row that’s worth going into,...

The Gaziano & Girling store takes shape

OK, it’s only a work site at the moment, but the Gaziano & Girling shop on Savile Row is looking exciting. At number 39, it might be the only shop on the west side of Savile Row that’s worth going into,...

ShoesJanuary 30th 2014

Green is the third colour

November 25th 2013

Navy and grey are the kings of colour. They should be your first choice for almost every item of clothing – suit, jacket, trousers, overcoat, knitwear, even ties. Navy in particular for jackets and ties; mid-grey o...

Green is the third colour

Navy and grey are the kings of colour. They should be your first choice for almost every item of clothing – suit, jacket, trousers, overcoat, knitwear, even ties. Navy in particular for jackets and ties; mid-grey o...

Casual wear - StyleNovember 25th 2013

Edward Green Top Drawer

November 20th 2013

An archive-trawling reader recently reminded me that back in November 2011 I wrote about my new Edward Green Top Drawer boots, concluding that perhaps it would be best to wait two years and then see how the boots had wor...

Edward Green Top Drawer

An archive-trawling reader recently reminded me that back in November 2011 I wrote about my new Edward Green Top Drawer boots, concluding that perhaps it would be best to wait two years and then see how the boots had wor...

ShoesNovember 20th 2013

The inside line: Gaziano & Girling in How to S...

November 19th 2013

It has been a year since I began my column with How to Spend It looking at value in menswear. Nice as it was, we had covered most of the basics – so the editors and I decided recently to change tack. The new col...

The inside line: Gaziano & Girling in How to S...

It has been a year since I began my column with How to Spend It looking at value in menswear. Nice as it was, we had covered most of the basics – so the editors and I decided recently to change tack. The new col...

Factory visits - ShoesNovember 19th 2013

The divergent styles of Cleverley and Gaziano &...

October 28th 2013

Having tried so many tailors and shoemakers, I am often asked to compare them. With bespoke shoes, the most common question is which maker achieved the best fit. However, the fit often doesn’t vary that much, and m...

The divergent styles of Cleverley and Gaziano &...

Having tried so many tailors and shoemakers, I am often asked to compare them. With bespoke shoes, the most common question is which maker achieved the best fit. However, the fit often doesn’t vary that much, and m...

Oxford - ShoesOctober 28th 2013

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&G

September 23rd 2013

These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of ...

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&G

These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of ...

StyleSeptember 23rd 2013

Gaziano & Girling’s new factory

September 16th 2013

The new Gaziano & Girling factory in Kettering is taking shape, and it’s a wonderful thing to see. An old Loake factory, where they used to do their bottom stock, it backs onto the Church’s closing facil...

Gaziano & Girling’s new factory

The new Gaziano & Girling factory in Kettering is taking shape, and it’s a wonderful thing to see. An old Loake factory, where they used to do their bottom stock, it backs onto the Church’s closing facil...

ShoesSeptember 16th 2013

Gaziano & Girling bespoke: new adelaides and fi...

August 21st 2013

These are my latest Gaziano & Girlingbespoke shoes, waiting to be made ready for a fitting (hopefully next week). They are a St James style (semi-brogue adelaide) in vintage cedar. Interestingly, Tony has changed hi...

Gaziano & Girling bespoke: new adelaides and fi...

These are my latest Gaziano & Girlingbespoke shoes, waiting to be made ready for a fitting (hopefully next week). They are a St James style (semi-brogue adelaide) in vintage cedar. Interestingly, Tony has changed hi...

ShoesAugust 21st 2013

How to buy good shoes

August 12th 2013

“If you want to know if a guy is well dressed, look down.” So said US columnist George Frazier back in the 1950s, and his words have never been more true. Men who spend too little on their shoes end up wit...

How to buy good shoes

“If you want to know if a guy is well dressed, look down.” So said US columnist George Frazier back in the 1950s, and his words have never been more true. Men who spend too little on their shoes end up wit...

How to - OxfordAugust 12th 2013

Permanent Style in Free & Easy magazine

March 22nd 2013

This column in Japanese magazine Free & Easy is the result of the photo shoot I posted about before Christmas. I have no idea what the Japanese text says, but hopefully it faithfully reports my opinions on shoes and...

Permanent Style in Free & Easy magazine

This column in Japanese magazine Free & Easy is the result of the photo shoot I posted about before Christmas. I have no idea what the Japanese text says, but hopefully it faithfully reports my opinions on shoes and...

ShoesMarch 22nd 2013

Hidetaka Fukaya, Il Micio

January 21st 2013

Hidetaka Fukaya, also known by his nickname Il Micio, is as much artist as artisan. Shoemakers tend to divide into two groups: those that are primarily driven by the artistic side of their work and those that a...

Hidetaka Fukaya, Il Micio

Hidetaka Fukaya, also known by his nickname Il Micio, is as much artist as artisan. Shoemakers tend to divide into two groups: those that are primarily driven by the artistic side of their work and those that a...

ShoesJanuary 21st 2013

Shoe shoot for Free and Easy

November 21st 2012

Photo shoot yesterday for Free and Easy magazine in Japan. They’re doing a special on English shoes, so shots of four pairs of my shoes from four different English shoemakers, and an interview/shoot with me. Phot...

Shoe shoot for Free and Easy

Photo shoot yesterday for Free and Easy magazine in Japan. They’re doing a special on English shoes, so shots of four pairs of my shoes from four different English shoemakers, and an interview/shoot with me. Phot...

Oxford - ShoesNovember 21st 2012

Santa Maria Novella, Gaziano & Girling and Mer...

August 3rd 2012

This past few weeks on The Rake website I’ve written about my first bespoke fitting at Gaziano & Girling, the sensual pleasures of Santa Maria Novella and the reasons why The Merchant Fox has a unique selling ...

Santa Maria Novella, Gaziano & Girling and Mer...

This past few weeks on The Rake website I’ve written about my first bespoke fitting at Gaziano & Girling, the sensual pleasures of Santa Maria Novella and the reasons why The Merchant Fox has a unique selling ...

AccessoriesAugust 3rd 2012

The Rake online

March 6th 2012

A Stefano Bemer bespoke solePlease remember, loyal readers, that I am now writing every week – indeed, twice a week – for The Rake online, which is expanding into a great source for international artisanal ar...

The Rake online

A Stefano Bemer bespoke solePlease remember, loyal readers, that I am now writing every week – indeed, twice a week – for The Rake online, which is expanding into a great source for international artisanal ar...

March 6th 2012

Buy good English shoes

January 25th 2012

Good English shoes are pretty much always worth the money you pay for them. Three things reminded me of this in recent weeks. One was a friend’s wedding. After years of buying in the low end of the market, he bough...

Buy good English shoes

Good English shoes are pretty much always worth the money you pay for them. Three things reminded me of this in recent weeks. One was a friend’s wedding. After years of buying in the low end of the market, he bough...

How to - OxfordJanuary 25th 2012

Gaziano & Girling: Deco – the shoes

January 23rd 2012

It should have been obvious from my piece back in May on Gaziano & Girling’s new Deco line that I would be very tempted by them, and this is the result a few months later. They are gorgeous shoes, whole-cut Ox...

Gaziano & Girling: Deco – the shoes

It should have been obvious from my piece back in May on Gaziano & Girling’s new Deco line that I would be very tempted by them, and this is the result a few months later. They are gorgeous shoes, whole-cut Ox...

Oxford - ShoesJanuary 23rd 2012

How to buy quality shoes

October 18th 2011

I contributed a fairly practical piece on buying good shoes to newspaper City AM a few weeks ago. Interested readers can find it here....

How to buy quality shoes

I contributed a fairly practical piece on buying good shoes to newspaper City AM a few weeks ago. Interested readers can find it here....

How to - ShoesOctober 18th 2011

US shoemaker tours

September 20th 2011

It’s time for US tours again. Doesn’t time fly? The full dates for two makers – Cleverley and Alfred Sargent Handgrade – can be seen on their sites at those links. And pictured we have some new st...

US shoemaker tours

It’s time for US tours again. Doesn’t time fly? The full dates for two makers – Cleverley and Alfred Sargent Handgrade – can be seen on their sites at those links. And pictured we have some new st...

September 20th 2011

Gaziano & Girling: Deco

May 25th 2011

Latest from The Rake: Devils in Deco Five years ago Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling were a breath of fresh air in British shoemaking. Now, with the startlingly elegant Deco line, they’re determined to do it all over ...

Gaziano & Girling: Deco

Latest from The Rake: Devils in Deco Five years ago Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling were a breath of fresh air in British shoemaking. Now, with the startlingly elegant Deco line, they’re determined to do it all over ...

ShoesMay 25th 2011

Update on Deco

December 30th 2010

Following several requests, here are a few more details on Gaziano & Girling’s new Deco line: – Shoes will only be available made-to-order to begin with – Retailers will be offered the option to ca...

Update on Deco

Following several requests, here are a few more details on Gaziano & Girling’s new Deco line: – Shoes will only be available made-to-order to begin with – Retailers will be offered the option to ca...

ShoesDecember 30th 2010