Saint Crispin’s and Camps de Luca visit London

May 8th 2015

  Next week there are two great events to get along to if you can: a trunk show by Saint Crispin’s and a drinks evening with Camps de Luca. The Saint Crispin’s event takes place in the Drake’s store on Cliffo...

Saint Crispin’s and Camps de Luca visit London

    Next week there are two great events to get along to if you can: a trunk show by Saint Crispin’s and a drinks evening with Camps de Luca.  The Saint Crispin’s event takes place in the Drake’s...

Shoes - May 8th 2015

Tony Gaziano: How Gaziano & Girling started

April 21st 2015

Last year I interviewed Tony Gaziano for this video, created by Essence Lifestyle (the questions were deliberately removed to create a single narration). It was interesting talking to Tony in more detail about his early days – beginning o...

Tony Gaziano: How Gaziano & Girling started

  Last year I interviewed Tony Gaziano for this video, created by Essence Lifestyle (the questions were deliberately removed to create a single narration). It was interesting talking to Tony in more detail about his ...

ShoesApril 21st 2015

More materialism, less consumerism

April 8th 2015

A tailor commented to me recently that the problem with people today is they are too materialistic. I think this misses the point slightly – and an exploration of it highlights an important aspect of the approach we advocate on this site....

More materialism, less consumerism

  A tailor commented to me recently that the problem with people today is they are too materialistic. I think this misses the point slightly – and an exploration of it highlights an important aspect of the approac...

April 8th 2015

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

January 17th 2015

Pierre Corthay Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers. Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy  

Bespoke shoes event: the speakers

Pierre Corthay   Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers.    Tony Gaziano Tommaso Melani Phillip Car Norman Vilalta John Carnera Dean Girling Andy Murphy    ...

January 17th 2015

My adelaides patinated

October 24th 2014

Continuing the shoe theme of recent posts, above are my Gaziano & Girling bespoke adelaides after repatination from Thomas at the Savile Row store. (Adelaide refers to the U-shaped section around the laces. The G&G model is the St ...

My adelaides patinated

   Continuing the shoe theme of recent posts, above are my Gaziano & Girling bespoke adelaides after repatination from Thomas at the Savile Row store. (Adelaide refers to the U-shaped section around the laces. The...

ShoesOctober 24th 2014

Gaziano & Girling guests

October 2nd 2014

By request, some of the lovely lovely people at the Gaziano & Girling evening last week. Not that many ties around, but some stunning Chittleborough & Morgan tailoring. Above, Michael Browne in his navy seersucker.   F...

Gaziano & Girling guests

  By request, some of the lovely lovely people at the Gaziano & Girling evening last week. Not that many ties around, but some stunning Chittleborough & Morgan tailoring. Above, Michael Browne in his navy seersu...

StyleOctober 2nd 2014

Gaziano & Girling launches patina service

October 1st 2014

Last week was the launch of the new patina service at Gaziano & Girling on Savile Row. For anyone not familiar with the English shoemaking industry, this is a big step – for the first time, a Northampton maker is offering the same han...

Gaziano & Girling launches patina service

  Last week was the launch of the new patina service at Gaziano & Girling on Savile Row. For anyone not familiar with the English shoemaking industry, this is a big step – for the first time, a Northampton maker i...

ShoesOctober 1st 2014

Five tips on bespoke shoes

July 7th 2014

I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I know it’s the same as the f...

Five tips on bespoke shoes

  I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is. 1 Be conservative I know i...

ShoesJuly 7th 2014

Clothes for travel

June 20th 2014

Attire for flying out to Florence this week. Polo shirts make great travel items, particularly long-sleeved under jackets. They are comfortable, cool and versatile, and navy is the smartest option. Just make sure the collar is tall enough to not sl...

Clothes for travel

  Attire for flying out to Florence this week. Polo shirts make great travel items, particularly long-sleeved under jackets. They are comfortable, cool and versatile, and navy is the smartest option. Just make sure the ...

Shoes - StyleJune 20th 2014

Gaziano & Girling shop: An opening party for...

April 28th 2014

When was the last time there was a shop opening on Savile Row to get excited about? One making to the same standard as the great tailors already there? Exactly. Reason enough to shout about the new Gaziano & Girling shop, which had an informa...

Gaziano & Girling shop: An opening party for...

When was the last time there was a shop opening on Savile Row to get excited about? One making to the same standard as the great tailors already there? Exactly. Reason enough to shout about the new Gaziano & Girling ...

ShoesApril 28th 2014

Gaziano & Girling bespoke Adelaides

March 10th 2014

  Tan shoes make such a lovely complement to grey flannel, don’t they? And we know why the socks are green. But of course the most beautiful thing here is the lines of the shoe. The tight waist that causes the sole to virtually di...

Gaziano & Girling bespoke Adelaides

  Tan shoes make such a lovely complement to grey flannel, don’t they? And we know why the socks are green.  But of course the most beautiful thing here is the lines of the shoe. The tight waist that causes t...

ShoesMarch 10th 2014

The Gaziano & Girling store takes shape

January 30th 2014

OK, it’s only a work site at the moment, but the Gaziano & Girling shop on Savile Row is looking exciting. At number 39, it might be the only shop on the west side of Savile Row that’s worth going into, and it certainly ...

The Gaziano & Girling store takes shape

  OK, it’s only a work site at the moment, but the Gaziano & Girling shop on Savile Row is looking exciting. At number 39, it might be the only shop on the west side of Savile Row that’s worth going into...

ShoesJanuary 30th 2014

Green is the third colour

November 25th 2013

Navy and grey are the kings of colour. They should be your first choice for almost every item of clothing – suit, jacket, trousers, overcoat, knitwear, even ties. Navy in particular for jackets and ties; mid-grey or charcoal for trousers. The c...

Green is the third colour

Navy and grey are the kings of colour. They should be your first choice for almost every item of clothing – suit, jacket, trousers, overcoat, knitwear, even ties. Navy in particular for jackets and ties; mid-grey or ch...

StyleNovember 25th 2013

Edward Green Top Drawer

November 20th 2013

An archive-trawling reader recently reminded me that back in November 2011 I wrote about my new Edward Green Top Drawer boots, concluding that perhaps it would be best to wait two years and then see how the boots had worn. So what have I learned in t...

Edward Green Top Drawer

An archive-trawling reader recently reminded me that back in November 2011 I wrote about my new Edward Green Top Drawer boots, concluding that perhaps it would be best to wait two years and then see how the boots had wor...

ShoesNovember 20th 2013

The inside line: Gaziano & Girling in How to...

November 19th 2013

It has been a year since I began my column with How to Spend It looking at value in menswear. Nice as it was, we had covered most of the basics – so the editors and I decided recently to change tack. The new column, The inside track, wil...

The inside line: Gaziano & Girling in How to...

It has been a year since I began my  column with How to Spend It  looking at value in menswear. Nice as it was, we had covered most of the basics – so the editors and I decided recently to change tack.  The new ...

Factory visits - ShoesNovember 19th 2013

The divergent styles of Cleverley and Gaziano &am...

October 28th 2013

Having tried so many tailors and shoemakers, I am often asked to compare them. With bespoke shoes, the most common question is which maker achieved the best fit. However, the fit often doesn’t vary that much, and most importantly (perhaps depre...

The divergent styles of Cleverley and Gaziano &am...

Having tried so many tailors and shoemakers, I am often asked to compare them. With bespoke shoes, the most common question is which maker achieved the best fit. However, the fit often doesn’t vary that much, and most ...

ShoesOctober 28th 2013

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...

September 23rd 2013

These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of fops and costume drama. Mi...

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...

These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of fops...

StyleSeptember 23rd 2013

Gaziano & Girling’s new factory

September 16th 2013

The new Gaziano & Girling factory in Kettering is taking shape, and it’s a wonderful thing to see. An old Loake factory, where they used to do their bottom stock, it backs onto the Church’s closing facility. In fact, the whole bu...

Gaziano & Girling’s new factory

The new Gaziano & Girling factory in Kettering is taking shape, and it’s a wonderful thing to see. An old Loake factory, where they used to do their bottom stock, it backs onto the Church’s closing facility. In ...

ShoesSeptember 16th 2013

Gaziano & Girling bespoke: new adelaides and ...

August 21st 2013

These are my latest Gaziano & Girlingbespoke shoes, waiting to be made ready for a fitting (hopefully next week). They are a St James style (semi-brogue adelaide) in vintage cedar. Interestingly, Tony has changed his fitting process recently...

Gaziano & Girling bespoke: new adelaides and ...

These are my latest Gaziano & Girlingbespoke shoes, waiting to be made ready for a fitting (hopefully next week). They are a St James style (semi-brogue adelaide) in vintage cedar. Interestingly, Tony has changed hi...

ShoesAugust 21st 2013

How to buy quality shoes

August 12th 2013

“If you want to know if a guy is well dressed, look down.” So said US columnist George Frazier back in the 1950s, and his words have never been more true. Men who spend too little on their shoes end up with flimsy things that look old ...

How to buy quality shoes

   “If you want to know if a guy is well dressed, look down.” So said US columnist George Frazier back in the 1950s, and his words have never been more true. Men who spend too little on their shoes end up with flim...

ShoesAugust 12th 2013

Permanent Style in Free & Easy magazine

March 22nd 2013

This column in Japanese magazine Free & Easy is the result of the photo shoot I posted about before Christmas. I have no idea what the Japanese text says, but hopefully it faithfully reports my opinions on shoes and shoe collecting, and desc...

Permanent Style in Free & Easy magazine

This column in Japanese magazine Free & Easy is the result of the photo shoot I posted about before Christmas. I have no idea what the Japanese text says, but hopefully it faithfully reports my opinions on shoes and...

ShoesMarch 22nd 2013

Hidetaka Fukaya, Il Micio

January 21st 2013

Hidetaka Fukaya, also known by his nickname Il Micio, is as much artist as artisan. Shoemakers tend to divide into two groups: those that are primarily driven by the artistic side of their work and those that are motivated principally by th...

Hidetaka Fukaya, Il Micio

        Hidetaka Fukaya, also known by his nickname Il Micio, is as much artist as artisan.   Shoemakers tend to divide into two groups: those that are primarily driven by the artistic side of their work and those t...

ShoesJanuary 21st 2013

Shoe shoot for Free and Easy

November 21st 2012

Photo shoot yesterday for Free and Easy magazine in Japan. They’re doing a special on English shoes, so shots of four pairs of my shoes from four different English shoemakers, and an interview/shoot with me. Photos of that next month when...

Shoe shoot for Free and Easy

  Photo shoot yesterday for Free and Easy magazine in Japan. They’re doing a special on English shoes, so shots of four pairs of my shoes from four different English shoemakers, and an interview/shoot with me. Pho...

ShoesNovember 21st 2012

Santa Maria Novella, Gaziano & Girling and M...

August 3rd 2012

This past few weeks on The Rake website I’ve written about my first bespoke fitting at Gaziano & Girling, the sensual pleasures of Santa Maria Novella and the reasons why The Merchant Fox has a unique selling point with its bags &a...

Santa Maria Novella, Gaziano & Girling and M...

This past few weeks on The Rake website I’ve written about my first bespoke fitting at Gaziano & Girling, the sensual pleasures of Santa Maria Novella and the reasons why The Merchant Fox has a unique selling ...

August 3rd 2012

The Rake online

March 6th 2012

A Stefano Bemer bespoke solePlease remember, loyal readers, that I am now writing every week – indeed, twice a week – for The Rake online, which is expanding into a great source for international artisanal articles. Recently we ha...

The Rake online

A Stefano Bemer bespoke solePlease remember, loyal readers, that I am now writing every week – indeed, twice a week – for The Rake online, which is expanding into a great source for international artisanal ar...

March 6th 2012