Introducing: The English Tweed overcoat

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“Oh, that is cosy.”

“It's like being wrapped up in a big tweedy blanket.”

“I could fall asleep in the corner like this.”

I’ve never done a pop-up where I had the sample of a new release for people to try on, and could see their reactions. In New York last month I did, and those were some of the first things people said when they put on this, our new ‘English Tweed’ overcoat. 

I thought these specific reactions were interesting because they highlight a key difference between this and the PS Donegal. This is a thick, cosy, winter overcoat. It’s something to wrap yourself up in, to feel cocooned, to step out into the cold when you can see your breath.

We’ve never done a real winter coat on PS so it was something I wanted to do this year. Inspiration came when I found an old British model from 1980 in a vintage store. It was large, slouchy, with a frighteningly low buttoning point and a droopy collar. It was a little too much for today - a little too period - but with some updates it has inspired something really unique and modern. 

The coat is still big. Big back, long body, generous sleeve. It fits over everything, cinches in the warmth, and buttons all the way up to the chin. But we moderated that collar shape, so it now has a pleasing line that runs along the edge of the collar and then all the way down the lapel (below). 

Then with hands in the coat pockets, it also has a beautiful shape to the front. You can see that in the image above: long lines from each lapel, stitched to keep them long and straight.

But you can also button or belt it in several ways. The buttoning point (the middle of the three) is still fairly low - one of the things that gives the coat more than a little of a louche Armani feel. 

You can fasten it there, with the belt secured at the back, and go on your way (below). Or you can do the opposite, and just use the belt: cinching it across those long open lapels and giving it a thrown-on robe look (second image). 

This is what I love about a loose, unstructured double-breasted coat: this playfulness and ease.

You don’t get it so much with tailored overcoats, but you do with a classic raincoat: there are so many ways to wear it, so much personality you can give it. 

On the belt, it’s important to note that it doesn’t have a prong or holes. It’s so thick it doesn’t need them. Instead, you put the belt through the buckle and pull it back on itself, tucking it either in the loop at the side (below) or through itself.

I find this really satisfying - less fussy and simpler than knotting. In fact it’s a good way to secure the belt at the back too, if you don’t want to use it. Pull the buckle to one side, then put the other end through the opposite loop, back through the buckle, and tuck it in. 

I’ve included a few images at the bottom of these various beltings and buttonings, as I knew readers would ask. But I can do a more explicit article at some point if that’s helpful. 

OK let’s talk about the cloth, as it's beautiful and just as significant to how the English Tweed overcoat is different to the Donegal. 

This material is heavier, tweedier and spongier. It weighs 800g compared to the 720g of the Donegal, but feels much warmer because of the open way it’s woven - more like a tweed - as well as the double fronts and belt.

Which gets us to the name. I thought ‘English Tweed’ was nice because it recalls all the English aspects that make it up. It uses undyed wool from English sheep - the dark-brown, cream and grey yarns you can see in it are the natural colours of the sheep themselves. 

It was spun in England, and that yarn was woven by Marling & Evans in Huddersfield - before being assembled by Private White VC down the road in Manchester. Add the fact that it was designed by us in London, using a piece of English vintage as inspiration, and you have a very Anglo creation. If there were such a thing as an English tweed, this would be it. 

In fact there’s a remarkable story about that vintage piece that inspired it, and its connection to PWVC and M&E, but I might save that for a later date. There are too many questions buzzing around my head that I know readers will be asking. 

So this coat is clearly different in style, in weight, in season from the Donegal. But given the patterns are fairly similar (smaller herringbone, dark brown rather than black, different texture, but still) do I think a reader could own both?

Many readers, yes. I have both and love both - I wouldn’t want to give up either. I also know a lot of readers will have just one or two good coats though, and are only beginning on building a good wardrobe. For them, I can see they might not want both. For everyone else, I think they’d enjoy both.

And of course many readers don’t have that particular Donegal, have it in other colours, or indeed (shockingly) own no Donegal at all. 

I think this slouchy, low-slung slice of classic menswear looks best in a brown-and-grey herringbone. It suits the classic-but-casual look, as well as the echoes of early eighties style. As ever, the aim of the PS Shop is to produce beautiful unique pieces, rather than fill out a wardrobe or a ‘collection’. 

Let’s summarise the other design elements. Some will be familiar to readers from other coats, but some are a little different:

  • Cashmere-lined pockets. (So satisfying to plunge your hands in on a cold day.)
  • And they're through pockets, with access to big buckets on the inside - as shown above. (That’s where my gloves go, or a hat.)
  • Two slanted pockets behind the lapels. (For easy access to phone, wallet etc.)
  • Wrist straps to narrow the sleeve against the cold. (I also find I keep them wider when I'm wearing a jacket underneath.)
  • Stand-up collar. (With crescent inserted on the back so it actually stands.)
  • Two-hole matte horn buttons. (Interesting how I’ve seen this cropping up around the place now.)

As with the best menswear, pretty much all form through function. 

I’ve shown the coat here with a range of outfits, to illustrate how it works with a suit and tie, and a T-shirt and jeans. 

The first outfit is a navy knit and black jeans, though the latter could easily be charcoal flannels for something smarter. Then there’s a brown suit with a white shirt and tie, and without the tie. And lastly a white T-shirt, blue jeans and loafers - the most casual of the lot. 

Like the recently released raincoat, it’s very satisfying to be able to wear a coat this casually. (Even if the weather would mean I'd usually wear it with a hoodie or sweatshirt, rather than just a T-shirt.)

It’s not hard for a brand to make a DB coat. They find an old image, give it to a factory, pick a stock cloth and put it on e-comm. But without good design, the factory could make the sleeve too slim, or put the belt too high, or shorten the length because it’s what ‘everyone’ is doing. 

Good design is about thinking through every aspect of a piece like a DB, and making conscious aesthetic choices. That's what makes a piece feel different when you put it on, and why it remains a favourite after five, 10, 20 years of wear. It becomes the piece you look forward to wearing every season, and even a reference for everyone else. 

I’m not going to say that’s what our new coat necessarily is - that’s for readers to decide - but in an age when there are lots of brands selling lots of coats, all self-referencing and even undercutting each other, it’s good design that really stands out. That plus quality are what are worth the money in the long run. 

The English Tweed overcoat, wonderfully made by Private White VC in Manchester, is on the PS Shop site now priced £1042 (plus taxes). It will ship to everyone next week. If you have any questions, do ask in the comments below.


  • Low-slung, slouchy double-breasted raglan coat 
  • Made from undyed English wool, woven in Huddersfield by Marling & Evans
  • Belt with leather buckle, unholed to double back on itself
  • Two-hole matte horn buttons
  • Cashmere-lined hip pockets, both with through pockets to larger pockets inside
  • Two inbreast slanted pockets
  • Manufactured by Private White VC in Manchester


  • A generous body fit and length, designed to be cinched for warmth
  • In the pictures Simon wears a Medium (4)
  • He wears a size 40 (50 European) suit jacket and is six feet tall (183cm)
  • Fits the same size as other Private White-made outerwear (apart perhaps from the Bridge Coat)
  • If in doubt, compare measurements to a coat you already own, bearing in mind the fit is meant to be generous. Don’t worry if it looks or feels a little big
  • Chest is measured 2.5cm below underarm; waist at 47cm down centre back; length from bottom of collar at the back, to hem

Size chart:

  X-Small/2 Small/3 Medium/4 Large/5 X-Large/6 XX-Large/7
Chest 52cm 54.5 58 61.5 65 68.5
Waist 53 55 59 62.5 66 69.5
Bottom hem 60 62.5 66 69.5 73 76.5
Length 115.5 116 117 118 119 120
Sleeve 82 83 84.5 86 87.5 89
Cuff (width) 16.8 17.1 17.5 17.9 18.3 18.7


The English Tweed overcoat is made to be easy to alter.

  • Cut a little longer than most modern overcoats, both to be more practical and flattering
  • But can easily be shortened by a tailor - a good 10cm without interrupting the balance or making the back pleat look too short
  • Can also be lengthened slightly if needed, by around 4cm. Inlay is left for that purpose
  • The sleeves can also be lengthened by around 3cm, and they can be shortened. Shortening by 2cm would be easy - more than that would require the wrist strap to be moved, but that is not a big job for a tailor
  • The body can also be narrowed, but this isn't necessarily recommended, as the style is supposed to be roomy. We wouldn’t suggest taking more than an inch on each side (still four inches in circumference)

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Yes! Coat looks bloody amazing! Question, is there a lot of allowance to let the body out, too?


Well I’m a big boy, if I recall correctly my newest piece of outerwear is 72 cm pit to pit.
But an extra 3 (or is that 3 on each side?) sounds reassuring. Do you know if PWVC will stock a size 8 as well with prior models?


One more question, is the belt removable all together or is it sewn to the back?


Just ordered a size 8 from them. Still unsure if it will work, but all fingers and toes crossed! I’ll let you know.


Having worn it a couple of days, I can say I really like it. Had some doubts initially since I’m not used to quite as slochy fits, especially combined with such a heavy and patterned cloth.
The cashmere lined pockets are such a lovely detail, I’ll miss them whenever I wear another coat from now on. The pass through to the inner pockets or indeed your trouser pockets are really nifty too, perhaps on the narrower side but definitely functional.
And bonus point I now know my size for any future releases (perhaps the regular raglan in a nice oatmeal or clean navy hint hint).


Dear JB,
May I ask where’s your bag from?
Many thanks,

Ian Skelly

Very nice! , off topic but which beach were you on with the white house on the cliffs? was it just down the road from Padstow?


Nice concept. Exudes the same feeling as a Polo Coat, but with an interesting tweed twist.
Design, materials and quality execution are always the elements that separate those wishing to make a great item from those who are in “the rag trade” selling whatever the punter wants.
Keep doing what you are doing.


Hi Simon,
Another great piece of PS design. Well done. The idea of using a raglan sleeve and associated fit with a double breasted front is unusual and really works well on this coat. I get the 80s reference and I found the reference to falling asleep in the coat resonates as it has long been a mental test I have made when choosing winter coats.
I don’t presently need a new coat, however I hope this one does well for you.
All the best.


It’s beautiful, as with all your designs; but, as I already have a Bridge Coat and two of the Donegals (the black/cream herringbone and the brown), I suspect pointed questions would be asked over the breakfast table were I to invest in yet another coat!
Is this one intended to become a regular item in future years, in a similar way to the other PS x PWVC coats?


…is the right answer! Maybe I can sneak one in next year without too many questions being asked!
(a size 7 is definitely calling to me, though…)


Hi Simon! Looks like a great coat! I have noticed however, that both this and the donegal overcoat are rather tight in the chest, as tight as my shirts are. How did you come up with the chest measurements? Normally, I suppose this type of coats are rather roomy in the chest? Many thanks in advance.


Understood, thank you for the quick response!


Love the belting options pictures Simon, really helps give an idea as to how to wear. I love the look of this coat, but sense I may need to see it in person to determine if I want it in addition to my donegal.


Looks beautiful. The shot of you wear it over the cord suit looks great. Alas, I have the 800g Donegal so might have to give this a miss until I have rounded my coat selection out more.

Chris West

I thought the donegal coat was 720g as per the above unless there was an earlier, heavier version?

Ben R

When the brown donegal was offered separately as a cloth, was it the 800g version or another weight?

Karl Maris

This is a most impressive coat, which reminds me of the Connolly Drop Shoulder Herringbone Coat depicted in the February 16, 2018 Permanent Style article entitled, “The Roll Neck.” In both instances the sweeping lapel is most distinctive, although the Connolly coat differs in that it appears to have a bluish tint rather than the dark brown colour of this current version. However, I am confused by the sizing charts depicted in this introductory article as contrasted to that shown on the “Purchase Page.” Specifically, the sleeve lengths differ markedly. SIZE CHART above:
XS/2. S/3. M/4. L/5. XL/6. XXL/7
Sleeve 82 83 84.5 86 87.5 89

Whereas the SIZE CHART on the “Purchase Page” indicates:
XS/2 S/3 M/4 L/5 XL/6 XXL/7
Sleeve length 89 90 92 94 95.5 98
It seems that the “Purchase Page” measurements are more likely to be accurate.
The chest, waist and length measurements all appear to be consistent.
Finally, I assume that the gloves shown in this article are Peccary. Please advise as to the make.
Thank you Simon.


The Connolly coat is wonderful.


This looks simply fabulous. However, are any pictures available with the collar down? Over here in Stockholm I rarely, if ever, see a collar worn up like in these shots.


I would like to second this. Would be great to also have a collar down picture included, just to have an even clearer picture of how the coat would look.


Hi Simon, beautiful piece!
Could you also wear a size L(5) or would it look to loose on you?
Do you find the sleeves a bit too long on you in size M(4)? I get that impression from one of the pictures.
Off topic, what brand are those gloves?

Rodrigue Ayotte

I both love the clear but not overstated Eighties vibe (the photoshoot is the most early MTV one you’ve done) and feel old because I’m noticing it. It’s nice, simple, not over-detailed, and it looks to be very well designed to purpose.


The COLLAR… it is amazing. Reminds me of that famous picture of Noel Coward in his camel hair overcoat. PS has a lot of great products but I think your outerwear is the standout.


i was home last week and believe me you wouldn’t have been standing on that particular beach then!
If you’ll forgive the pun ‘great coat’ – I love winter coats probably more than any other item of menswear. As one of my fellow readers infers a raglan sleeve gives a DB really quite a different (much less formal and structured) look.


Good afternoon Simon!

What a lovely coat. Couple of questions spring to my mind.
Is this a three seasons’ coat or would you say that it is only a winter coat? Living in the Low Countries, we barely see the snow but it is rainy, windy and mildly cold for 8 months of the year.
Is there a difference between buying directly at the PS shop or PWVC? Can you give an estimate for the price after taxes in the EU?

Very nice style! Congratulations on a great product.


Hi Simon,

Having tried to find a DB for this winter, I can attest to the fact that finding a good DB is bloody difficult, so it’s great to see this coat and a lovely tweed too.

I managed to try on the full range of PS coats at William Cabtree a couple of weeks ago, I found the Donegal shoulders didn’t really work for me – made me look narrow and then sizing up, I’d get lost in the jacket body. Do the shoulders and cut differ here? I guess the cinch will help immensely around the body.


Nothing beats a try on for sure – making the pop-up is very much on my agenda, so I will see you there!

Dan James

Gorgeous looking coat. As said above the photo with the brown suit looks good but then again so does the one with the jeans and off-white t-shirt. I think that just goes to show what a great piece it is in that suits both formal and casual looks with no incongruence.
If I lived in Europe or North America the.know it would be a must but in the warmer part of Japan-would it get the wear? It was cold last year so I might just indulge myself to “stay warm” of course.

n. David

Simon, are you trying to bankrupt me? I only just received my Donegal from PWVC this past Monday, and now you release this beauty?!

In all seriousness though, this coat looks wonderful. Is the fabric the same sort of colour as the Donegal,s herringbone, or a different shade? I’ve found that the colour of my Donegal’s fabric is decidedly warmer than some of the photos would suggest.

n. David

Simply a matter of shipping cost, Simon. PWVC offers pricing in local currency (Canadian dollars for me) with landed pricing that isn’t subject to currency fluctuation. In this case, it was simply less expensive to use their one-and-done purchasing option. They had also sent me a coupon code, which allowed the coat to fit into what remains of this year’s clothing budget.

n. David

Happy to hear about landed pricing coming to the PS store. I’ll email you the requested details regarding that code.


To add to David’s point, I have also purchased from both your website and PWVC’s. I also hesitate to get more pieces from you guys because of customs fees unpredictability

Stephen R

Bravo, Simon, another achingly gorgeous coat. Your line, “the aim of the PS Shop is to produce beautiful unique pieces, rather than fill out a wardrobe or a ‘collection” resonates, as well. I appreciate how much thought goes into the pieces in your line, even the ones that aren’t to my taste. A focus on producing something well-thought out to be beautiful, functional, classic but versatile is rare. Your clothing never appears costume-y. Kudos on both the raincoat and this one, too.


Hi Simon,

This is such a lovely coat! I ordered one this morning and am looking forward to receiving it.

I have a couple of questions, I often wear herringbone jackets (e.g. PS Shetland Tweed) – do you think wearing one under the coat would be a bit too much? And would you say the colour of the coat would make it as versatile as the grey Donegal coat?

Many thanks,


Oh, that’s great. Thank you, Simon.

Chris West

I love a dramatic overcoat and this is certainly that. Annoyingly similar to the donegal otherwise it would be ordered already. I would like to see the fabric in person as the filter on the photos appears to dull the colour down but it looks almost identical to the donegal fabric.
Would you lengthen your coat Simon? Being double breasted and fairly voluminous i think it could take and maybe even benefit from additional length. I noticed that you lengthen your donegals – how much by out of interest?


Simon, now that I read your comment about the 3 cm, I’m trying to decide whether to have my tailor lengthen my donegal too. I’m a couple of inches taller than you (perhaps you recall meeting me, an older guy with wife and poodle on the Rubato floor at the recent NYC pop-up; I really wish I hadn’t been in such an unavoidable rush and could have made it up the stairs to your stuff) and my non-altered size 5 goes down to just below my knees, which seems to be just about where yours goes to in the photos I’m looking at on the website. Perhaps those photos were taken before you started lengthened yours? If so, are there some post-lengthening photos on the website somewhere? I suppose more length is more dramatic and more dramatic is better, so I’m leaning toward lengthening. Would love to get your thoughts on this.

Lawrence West

Simon, thanks for the reply. I’m definitely going to have my tailor lengthen mine. I’m inclined to go the full 5 cm. As you say, it’s personal and a question of style, but given that it will not be easy for me to visualize how the additional 5 cm will end up looking, and given that you have stopped at 3, I want to ask you for additional thoughts. As I mentioned above on me the stock length hits about where the stock length hits on you, a bit below the knee. Have you tried letting one of yours out fully in length, might you in future, why or why not, etc.

Lawrence West

Thanks so much, Simon.


Wonderful coat Simon! You -once again- surparssed yourself! Really really nice photography aswell, love the colors on them (I dig stuff like this as I‘m a amateur photographer myself).
I own a Burberry Tweed („Britisch Saxony“) Coat in a very similiar fashion and color and I can really vouch for it‘s versatility. Just goes with about everything and is always an elegant choice!
Keep up the good work:)


Beautiful, but I have 17 coats, which is mad, so will have to resist. Can I enquire about those lovely gloves, though?


Really beautiful coat, Simon. Love the volume and the long lines.
On fit- I often find that I’m a touch between sizes in the PW coats. I have a more structured PW DB overcoat (I think they called it a great coat) in a 4/M that fits everywhere but the shoulders are a bit tight when worn over a suit, though I found the Bridge Coat in a 5/L to be too large. Can you expound a touch more on your comment in the article about he sizing differing between this and the Bridge?
Unrelated- thoughts on this working in a pinch with a more conservative navy or grey suit in the city? Not ideal obviously, but curious if you think it just works.
Thanks, Simon.


I seldom if ever comment here but this is Beautiful.


Bloody smart looking coat Simon!! Would love to see it in the States.


Very nice!! , off topic but
do you have any experience/opinion of redmayne 1860 Bespoke, Made To Measure, Remote Suit Service and Ready To Be Worn?


Run by Tom Mahon, ex A&S and Steed. Used to cut for POW when at Andersons. Got shafted by investors and had to exit English Cut.
Knows his stuff.


Well Tom was very transparent on the point at the time. Realised his mistake and moved on.
Redmayne is where he started way back when, so gone full circle.

david rl fan

Was comparing quickly on the shop site, the light grey donegal overcoat,

Am I wrong, isn’t the above a herringbone, in navy it’s a donegal. Also the weight is listed as 760g but on this page it’s 720g, nothing significant but still.

And is that a PS watch cap in navy? and quotes from product “Over time the cap will flatten and soften somewhat, becoming closer to the head.” but later “The cap has a natural stretch so will become slightly larger over time.” which is it or have I misunderstood.

Great job on the lengthening and shortening options for a shorty like me, I want to say it’s your best product but your overcoat game as a whole is so strong that I don’t want to make a judgement but in a good way.

david rl fan

For the cap, does this mean it molds to the wearer’s head? Is this the donegal, on the second image I can finally see the herringbone? A simple reply is more than fine as I know you’re busy with the pop-up


I’m one of the aforementioned readers who is just beginning to build a good wardrobe, so for now I’ll be content to admire this marvelous coat.
On a coat related note, in your opinion what’s the most versatile coat that can still be worn with black tie on a frigid winter night without looking absurd? A navy DB overcoat like you describe in your Five Coats article? Or could something less formal like this English Tweed work? I wear black tie rarely, so I want a coat that isn’t pigeon-holed for that purpose. Thanks!


Ah, thank you for your thoughts. Noted! Is this a photo you’ve published? I can’t seem to find it. My one nice coat is your Donegal (wear it constantly, thank you), so I’ll don that with black tie.
Yes, I don’t ever plan to get a coat that’s black tie exclusive. I was thinking perhaps someday I’ll get something that can stretch comfortably towards that level of formality. Although maybe I just stick with the Donegal and call it settled.


If I may trouble you with one final query on the subject: which of your dark DBs do you like best? Your latest Ettore de Cesare? Your Reworked Edward Sexton? What’s the one you’d steer someone towards as being the most wearable (and enjoyable)? Thanks!

J Crewless

Looks great 👍.


Simon, I didn’t read the post but I’m assuming you wouldn’t design a topcoat with a collar that is permanently standing up. Would it be possible to post another photo with the collar laying flat so we can see how it wears in a more passive format? It’s fine if the photo isn’t professionally done etc.

Tim J

Hi Simon,
Another lovely product from the PS Store I must say. Congratulations. I was initially planning to ask about the sleeve length, but think between your answer to Viet’s question and the alteration details you’ve provided you’ve answered it (you and I are the same height, but I’m bigger through the chest and around the middle so end up needing to opt for a larger size and alter the sleeve length / length).
The last time I was in London, PWVC shared that beautiful retail space with Bennett Winch. I know Bennett Winch moved to the Row, so presume PWVC now only have their retail space in Manchester? Just asking because it would have been great to try a few of your pieces out when visiting London in mid-May 2024.


Hi Simon, my only reason for waiting to purchase is to see if the size 8 would be available on the PWVC website, as even with the generous sizing and the measurements listed, I likely need this size if it exists. As a side note, there are actually multiple items on the permanent style shop that I would be very interested in, but unfortunately the largest sizes available are too small for my 53” chest and 300lbs+ body frame. Realistically, it’s likely more feasible for the clothes to get bigger than for me to get smaller. Would you ever consider offering extended sizes in your online shop? I realize that I am probably quite a behemoth compared to most, however I for sure can tell you that the men’s luxury ready to wear big and tall options are extremely limited. None the less, a beautiful coat, and the other coats in the PS x PWVC that I own in size 8 are indeed some of my most treasured and used pieces.


Another lovely item from PS and as another reader commented very rare that I like a double breasted coat these days.

I have the cream/black Donegal and find that over a decent jumper is all I need for the milder winters we seem to have in the UK these days, but should things get colder I might look to indulge again!

A side point, would you mind letting me know what make the brown suede baker boy style hat is you are wearing near the end of the article? Been looking for one for a while as I don’t like to wear my herringbone tweed flat cap with the Donegal as feel some contrast is needed.




Thanks Simon, ah never mind, will keep my eyes peeled in case it returns!


Looks fantastic – but the blue/green colour tint applied to the images in post makes it a little difficult to read the actual hue of the tweed …


Hi Simon,
Random question but what size are the buttons?
Many thanks

Tony Parrack

Classic. Gorgeous.
Unfortunately an heirloom (in that I can see my sons, now of my size, nicking it)

Barry Jaynes

English Tweed Overcoat! Congratulations! A stunner. I am a U.S. 42 regular, five foot eleven….what size do you recommend?


I have the Donegal in the similar cloth. The cut of this English Tweed coat is what I wish the Donegal was, frankly.


Wow what a nice realisation! I think beanie and baseball cap should definitely be avoided as they are as flattering for any male head as Crocks or Birkenstocks are for our feet, even though mainstream thinks that’s the only option. Whereas the pictures with the messenger Cap or probably a trilby /fedora are the best solution. Don’t you think? Carry on the good work you are doing. I love reading your articles as they are very inspiring for the whole community.


You made my morning read.

I have a 1985 Austin Reed topcoat hanging in the closet that reflects your efforts. Made in England . Wool by Crombie. Had the length shorten at purchase as it was to long (nearly ankle) to be worn in US business environment.

Collar slightly smaller and looks best up. Single button but not exposed. Nearly same belt and raglan shoulders. Almost identical tweed. Cost 250$ which was a lot for a university student at that time. Purchased at a small shop in Cardiff.

Only good for couple of winter months here in Seattle but I love it and always look forward to colder weather so I can wear it on the ferry. After 30 somthing years as good as new.

No particular point just thought you might be interested. This and your type of topcoat is for the ages.

Enjoy your news letter.

Floyd Shelton

Hilaire O'Shea

Lovely coat, and I’m glad you went with raglan sleeves. I’ve always known ‘through pockets’ as ‘poachers pockets’. Just thought it worth mentioning.


Wonderful coat! I’d buy it if I didn’t already have the somewhat similar Donegal coat.

Ben R

Is the vent on the donegal overcoats the same as the vent on this English Tweed overcoat?

Zach S

Damn, as if it wasn’t hard enough to keep my savings as I keep thinking about the black and cream donegal, this is really gorgeous. Oh well, in all seriousness I recently quit my job to go to uni so I’m just about recovered from my navy donegal purchase earlier this year, but really starting to love throwing it on in this cold Welsh weather. There just really isn’t anything quite like it these days. Maybe in a few years this or the other donegal can make a fine addition to my collection if they’re still around.
Also, a question you’ve probably answered enough before, but is there a reason other than simplicity (especially in making repairs) that you specify the two hole buttons? Not a complaint certainly, I had to re-sew one recently


Maybe a bit off topic, but can you tell me where you got the brown corduroy suit from? Looks great with the overcoat!


Thank you!


Simon, sorry for off-topic, but do you plan to have the finest crewneck back in the shop this fall?


Fantastic coat. Thank you.
Niche question: I am two meters tall, wide shoulders, 33 inch waist. Which size would you recommend? A Xl and slim it down (despite all wanted slouchiness).


Hey Simon,

Big fan of the blog and your products. I already own the Bridge coat, the Linen Harrington and a great Polo. I also ordered the Indulgent Shawl collar in cream, any idea when it will be shipped?

As I’m a fan of long coats, winter and Trench coats, I really love this Herringbone. And I always thought herringbone was not something for me, so well one!

A bit of topic…I’m actually looking for a good raincoat for rainy Dutch weather on my bike. I’m quite sure you covered or mentioned a cool brand that specializes in rain coats, but I’m not able to find it anymore. It’s not Private White Vc (which I also live) but similar in quality build, and a little bit more urban / street wear (less formal). They had some interesting designs, definitely not standard raincoats, and I think it was Scandinavian or German.
Does this ring any bells?

Thanks so much in helping out., and keep up the great work.


HI Simon,

just wanted to confirm that you done it again… I purchased this amazing coat yesterday. Now I just have to find the right coat for my wife so it seems we both got ourselves a gift this month 🙂


Might it be Norwegian Rain?


Dear Haackk,

Norwegian Rain looks amazing, and it’s very close to what I’m looking for.

Maybe I’ve been searching for a more street wear version of Private White, with premium quality build, that just happens to also be rain proof (versus positioning themselves as just rain coats).

Happy to see if anyone has some tips.



The coat looks wonderful! I recently purchased the Donegal Overcoat in the cream/black color. It doesn’t quite suit me and I’m wondering whether the English Tweed coat addresses some of the issues I have. Could you please address the questions below? Thanks!

1.) How do the size/scale of the collars compare? I found that the collar of the Donegal coat didn’t stand up as much as I would have liked. Does the collar on the English Tweed coat stand up more easily?

2.) How does the fit in the chest and through the body compare when the Tweed coat is buttoned but not cinched?

3.). How does the scale of the herringbone pattern compare to that of the Donegal overcoat?

4.). How does the contrast between the light and dark colors compare to that of the Donegal overcoat? I found that the contrast between the black and cream in the Donegal was too stark for my liking.



Thank you, that is very helpful!


Hi Simon,

Been looking for a raglan DB and absolutely love this!

My only question is whether it might be possible to order a buckle-less belt? Maybe a question better directed to PWVC directly – I could always order the coat from you and have PWVC make a separate belt, if they’d be willing/able to do it – but I figured I’d try asking here first.

Thank you!



Excellent – I just fired off an email to PWVC to see if they might be able to make such a belt.

And yes, you’ve got it exactly right – I’d want to just simply tie it (in front or in back), as in a pure wrap coat (even though it has buttons). I realize you could do that with the buckle – but I’d rather not have the weight (or extra visual element).

Thanks again!


Got it – makes sense and appreciate the feedback!

Gordon Young

Hi Simon, my Bridge Coat and Wax Walker are both size 6 but I went up to a size 7 for my PS Donegal Overcoat as I wanted more of an ‘oversized’ look for that particular coat. Should I do the same for this coat? From your narrative it sounds like it’s already generously cut so my normal size 6 may be OK. Decisions, decisions…

Gordon Young

Thanks Simon, I’ll go with the 6. I’m in Scotland so won’t make the pop up event but thanks for the invite.


Even though I have the grey donegal, and find it warm enough for most winters in Stockholm, I find myself craving this one. And the belt really shows why I wished the donegal one would have been belted as well; it just adds more ways to wear it! But never mind that, excellent work!

I think this really illustrates that how we wear things are at least as important as what we wear. When this coat is worn buttoned up with a watch cap, it gives serious workwear wibes. Unbuttoned but belted, it looks a bit freewheeling, almost rakish. If worn with a dark suit, I imagine it would looks very business-like.

Philip Gilbert

Hi Simon,
Congratulation, it would appear PS has another winning style.
I thought it might be interesting to compare it with a mid-90s, vintage Armani coat I purchased 2-yrs ago, when I began my collection.
The fabric is a wool/alpaca blend
The most obvious difference is the proportions, for example the length, from the bottom of the collar is 133cm. The listing said for people over 183cm!
I have attached a picture
Keep up the good work!


tried it on! absolutely lovely! after I’ll see size 5 in person I might be happier with this than Donegal, just as new suede bomber fits me so much better than valstarino!
one question I have. if you compare same size with Donegal, how is armholes? in Donegal and trench I’m kind of between sizes. size 5 is a touch small over knitwear, size 6 is too big over jacket.
a bit off topic… but what would be your expectations of trench waterproofness after a year of it being worn almost daily for about 2-3h? I don’t think today’s rain was THAT strong but by the time I walked from pop up to the end of jermyn street, my jumper sleeves were starting to get wet, and I had a feeling rest of trench wouldn’t take much more water…


Thank you! Thankfully you and private white have good returns policy so whoever will have stock when i have money, i can try 5!
Yeah, i thought it let trough a bit much water.. i dont think theres anything to do about it? At least i dont walk in rain like this that often…


I can pop by on Saturday if pop up is still open? especially since I saw on Instagram more than one size of tweed coat so probably size 5 should be there to see?

thank you!


Fantastic design and cloth. I’m not too fond of belts on overcoats, would it look odd if removed?
My most used overcoat is the PS brown Donegal (the heavier version). I love it. I am tempted to get this one too.
The fabrics of all the coats you’ve designed are fantastic. Have you ever considered offering them for sale? Perhaps after the overcoats are no longer offered if there are commercial considerations preventing it. These fabrics are far more interesting and unique than the re-issued H&S fabrics.


Ah ok, great, I guess I missed that one could buy lengths of the Donegal last year. Are there plans to offer this or other fabrics in the future?


Hey Simon,
Are there plans to offer the Donegal cloths again?


My donegal coat arrived a week ago and while I have no buyers remorse given this newer offering, (my location – North Carolina, favors a less heavy overcoat), I do want to ensure that my next purchase has no buyers remorse.
I apologize for the very direct question but I have two BHL chinos in cart (not a chino wearer by default) and have read on numerous occasions your flirtation with a PS chino. Is there one planned?
PS: now it’s your turn to apologize, in the 6 weeks since I’ve found this blog I’m $11k lighter

David Pope

The Cal baseball cap was fun to see on an Englishman.


This coat looks really nice, love the length and raglan sleeves and also the belt, which allows to achieve a more pronounced silhouette. However, I have doubts about the fabric’s weight – 800g sounds… heavy. Wouldn’t it be too warm for current mild winters? I would appreciate your thoughts on this matter.


Hi Simon,
My coat arrived today. It is stunning, as expected! In person, I am glad I ignored the concern regarding the similarity to my Donegal, I can see how I will use both. I was hoping to get some advice. There are many comments regarding lengthening (and forgive me if I have missed a comment) but at what point would you suggest shortening? I am about 5’10 and the coat ends around my mid-calf as compared to what appears to be just below your knee in the photos. I recognise it is supposed to be generous in fit, and will no doubt give it some time before deciding but would be grateful for your insight. Thanks!

Daniel Smith

I ordered this coat in the same size as my Bridge Coat (3), and I adore it; however, I am 5’6″ and I feel the buttons, belt and pockets sit a little bit low on my body. Looking at the sizing chart, I think a smaller size (2) could work on me; but I cannot tell, are the buttons, belt and pocket positioned a little higher up on that size, or is that dimension the same?

Daniel Smith

Thanks so much for the information and for your wonderful designs!


Hi Daniel, did you end up switching to the 2? How does it look? We’re the same height so would love to get your thoughts. Thanks!

Kristian G.

Simon, one drawback for me is the brown color… why didn’t you make it in black and white instead of brown ? Is it very apparent the color, would I be able to wear it as B&W herringbone ?


Hi Simon,
This is not directly related to the coat, but recently there was a thread on Twitter by @dieworkwear on how outerwear looks better when it’s worn open.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on this topic, is that something you would like to cover on your blog?


I do think the donegal coat looks best when worn open, ideally with your hands in the pockets for a bit of shape. But that being said, it is my heaviest coat (though finding it a bit light at that) so I’m not likely to do that and freeze just to get a couple of style points.


I just about was ready to buy the Donegal, only to see my size is sold out! I’m now debating if I should get this one!
As much as you hate being asked this, if I did have to pick one (as someone starting off their wardrobe) which one should I pick? I wear a suit to work and my casual style is Ivy.


Thanks Simon, I’m in London so it will definitely get a few wears in as we go into winter. Question is, will it be too much outside of that?
I read an earlier comment from someone in Stockholm mentioning the Donegal is warm enough for most winters, which suggests the Tweed might suit better as a second purchase (as a proper winter coat) and the Donegal as a more versatile option?
…I am also one of those people who doesn’t own a Donegal at all btw – but I come from Oz so I presume there is a legitimate excuse!
I have thought about the navy option, but the grey looks so damned good! Keen to know when it will be back in stock, and of course, your thoughts on the Tweed’s versatility for transitional seasons.


Thanks Simon – helpful as always!!


Hi Simon,

Beautiful coat. I an thinking of having Private White doing a MTM version in a different cloth! The same fabric you used in one of your ulster coats here:

Do you think the fabric would be appropriate for this sort of design?


Thanks for the prompt response.

Do you think it could potentially work in a PoloCoat design like the one you did with The Anthology, or would that also still be too casual a design for this material,


Would the fabric work for a peacoat? Thank you.


Hello Simon,
I’d been saving up to get one of these but it seems there are no size M left. I’m guessing there’s no restock planned before next year at the soonest?


Hi Simon,
I have the Donegal overcoat (which I love) in size 3. I originally got size 4 but it was far too big for me so I exchanged it for size 3. You stress here how this coat has ‘slouchy’ fit. I’m wondering if this means I would need to go with size 4 or if I should stick with size 3 as the Donegal?

Joe P

Beautiful piece, Simon. Is it the kind of coat you could imagine wearing more or less throughout an English winter? Like you, I live in London; I’ve currently a couple of winter coats, though neither as warm (or nice!) as this. I find myself wearing them for close to three months of every year, so they get a LOT of use, which has always made them feel like good investments. Presumably the English Tweed isn’t meant for just the very coldest of months?

Edwin Rothengatter

Just purchased this beauty. After the wax walker/bridge/motor trench coat I couldn’t resist on getting this masterpiece of a overcoat and it fills in a spot in my wardrobe which I couldn’t fill for the longest time.

What would you suggest as next piece of outerwear Simon, I currently have the following:

  • Buzz rickson tropical army jacket (Summer/Spring)
  • Bridge coat (Autumn/winter)
  • Wax walker (Autumn/spring/Early winter)
  • Olive Motor trench coat (Autumn/spring/ mayby early winter?)
  • Navy Burberry balmacaan trench from the 80/90’s (pristine condition although it has 60% polyester) (Autumn/spring)
  • Great english overcoat (Autumn/winter)

My guess is some more spring/summer pieces, although I barely wear jackets in the summer.
Mayby a leather/suede jacket?

Cheers in advance and thanks for the great designs!

Edwin Rothengatter

Cheers, thanks for a direction! As I’m in the Netherlands and cycle alot during the spring/summer it def will be a shorter jacket. My current wardrobe is more on the casual workwear side but I do intent to branch into the smarter kind of clothing for next year. (I allready have some pieces but it’s a slow proces on acquiring them to get a functional wardrobe)
Thinking about it, a suede chore coat would be handy on my bicycle since it has lots of easy acces pockets. Not sure if it would work with some flannels though?

Edwin Rothengatter

I’ll have a look, big fan of drakes lookbook in general although most pieces are to wide for me (I’m tall and athletic). Looking at the chore coat in 44 it’s actually quite regular fitting for a spring/summer jacket at 61,5cm chest width. Now the price is not something I’m willing to spend at the moment (after indulging in the english tweed haha)
It does look stunning with that rich brown color though.
Thanks Simon!

Martins Onzuls

eh. in the current cold snap went for broke and placed an order. tried with you. PayPal didn’t go trough. placed with pwc. after getting an email of “allow up to 5 days for despatch”… should have paid extra 2£ and ordered with you… by the time I get it, it’ll be warm again! let’s hope 5 doesn’t feel too big! otherwise will hope for next year Donegal restock.

Martins Onzuls

well.. used to be pwc at least did free shipping. now they didn’t. and to be honest it was just a bit irresponsible purchase so if I think about it, I would probably decide “meh, it’s cold only couple weeks in London, i can do without another coat”. but hey so far all of my outerwear is from you and If sizing works, this is last piece of outerwear I buy for foreseeable future!

Martins Onzuls

turns out I got it faster than expected! just unpacked and tried on! I still want to see it in daylight, but I think it fixed all the fit issues why I kept procrastinating on Donegal! shoulders and sleeves is a tad looser while body fit is the same?

but what I find interesting is, during pop up my first thought was “that’s such a nice, soft and warm blanket! almost doesn’t feel like tweed”, but now? “that is one big, beefy and super warm piece of tweed! I think I could wear it in -20*”

if there is even a hint of any plans to change Donegal fit or release this is lighter weight, I’ll have a serious buyers remorse! otherwise I’m super happy!

p.s. colour is just perfect! maybe you remember me asking for charcoal Donegal (and procrastinating for too long on preorder) for me this might be even better! I love cream Donegal but find it too loud for having only one grey herringbone coat. this on the other hand? much calmer and more discreet colour! unless it’s a bright sunlight, you need a second or third look to realise it’s not dusty black/grey but brown.

the only downside, for those even shorter than me… if you need to move sleeve strap when shortening… it’ll cost you! I probably will shorten sleeves 1-1.5cm so I’m ok, my tailor quoted 20£, but he also said, due to really perfect matching on herringbone, if I need to move strap, I’ll be 70£.


Much as I like this coat I always prefer bespoke for all tailoring, so it would be great to get interesting cloths like this and the donegals available in cut lengths.


Sadly missed the boat with your stock as had to move on my PW greatcoat, have been checking in case of returns… but my size 4 arrived today from PWVC and it’s instantly my favourite coat. The belt is cinching slightly and is tied off at the back right now but I also loved tying it at the front as the only fastening. Annoyingly it’s well into double digits in London but I fly to Aberdeen for business next week where it’ll be much more appropriate. I also completely see where this AND a Donegal fit into a wardrobe, completely different coats; although the Donegal is possibly more versatile and certainly less of a statement.
Usual decision whether to lengthen. I probably will do when spring comes so I get the extra bit for next year.
My third PS / PWVC collaboration piece now; please do keep them coming!


I have never seen this site before, and it’s amazing! I am looking for a nice overcoat these days, and both the Donegal and the English Tweed are beautiful, but they are already sold out in my size. Do you release a new coat like this every year? When is the right time of year for me to check back and (hopefully) snag a coat before they are all gone? Thank you!


I see the waiting list box, thank you!