What makes quality jeans – and should you c...
A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass production doesn’t necessaril...
What makes quality jeans – and should you c...
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Yes, thank you. I'll correct...
Reader profile: Andy
This is Andy. A long-time reader and customer, Andy had led, shall we say, an interesting life. Currently a hydrographic surveyor, he has also been a pilot, a mountaineer, and dabbles as a model (fashion and life). He is passionate about clothing, ...
Reader profile: Andy
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Thanks Willie my man. Appreciate your comments mate, I'll have to give you a big hug as you are sitting only about 10 feet away from me in the offline room just now. Top hat and goggles - Its the way to go and of course,...
How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)
I recently had my vintage Levi’s repaired a couple of times by the team at Blackhorse Lane. The first time for a rip in the knee, and the second to reinforce the crotch seams. It’s wonderful to be able to do that. The jeans are just as s...
How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)
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I’ve tried hard to love raw denim but finally switched back to pre-washed a couple of years ago. I’ve had several pairs of Edwins and a pair of 3Sixteen, which were quite expensive and didn’t last long. As you ment...
Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut
Chinos from tailors never feel like chinos. Why is this? I used to think I knew the answer: the fabrics they used were too fine – dress cottons, made with fine fibres, finished for a sleek look and good drape. Chinos, even lu...
Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut
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Absolutely, particularly as fewer people wear jackets and shirts. Trousers add such subtle style...
Carreducker remote-fitted bespoke boots: Review
I think when craftsmen are doing remote fittings, they err on the safe side. That’s one consistency I can draw from my online bespoke over the past year. Whether it’s with WW Chan , Massura or Ferdinando Caraceni in tailoring, Carreduc...
Carreducker remote-fitted bespoke boots: Review
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I do, yes, they're lovely in the winter...
Blackhorse Lane chinos: Review
This review of Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) chinos might serve two purposes. First, it covers the London maker as part of our ongoing series on chinos - which you can see all chapters of here. And second, it reviews Blackhorse Lane's made-to-mea...
Blackhorse Lane chinos: Review
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Yes, though you can see that from the measurements too...
The Western shirt four ways (with Begg & Co ...
One of the reasons Western and denim shirts have been so popular in recent years is their versatility. On the one hand, their conventional pale blue means they sit easily beneath all manner of jackets or suits, while adding an intentional, unexpect...
The Western shirt four ways (with Begg & Co ...
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Not currently, but certainly a good one for his list, thanks...
Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly Covid - consistently got in the...
Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans
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I recently had a pair of MTM jeans made by BHL. It was a wonderful experience. Lilly was extremely helpful and detail-focused. I felt she really cared about getting the best fit possible, even when it meant more work for...
How to wash and wear raw denim
People get in a real muddle over raw denim. A reader commented a couple of weeks ago that he didn’t like it because ‘you’re never allowed to wash it’. Of course you can wash raw denim. You might want to wash it less, at the ...
How to wash and wear raw denim
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Only raw denim? I'd say Blackhorse Lane, Bryceland's, Full Count, Real McCoy's. And add Rubato if I'm allowed a one wash...
How jeans can be altered
One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered. It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their longevity - that in fact, jeans...
How jeans can be altered
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Just get one! I'd have them with a slight break, to turn up. You can always adjust that by turning up more or less, but if there's no extra length then you're a bit stuck....
Introducing: The Madras linen
There is a certain preponderance among men to order bespoke shirts in loud checks. This must be the case, because most patterned materials offered for bespoke are bright and loud. Even though the ones available in a mill’s full collection - o...
Introducing: The Madras linen
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Yes, we have reordered it so it should be in fairly soon. As ever, waiting list with the support team is the best way to get first notification...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing, and that makes sense. I&rsq...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
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Thanks Dave...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products out carefully on display. It...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
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They did, yes. It certainly wouldn't be as long lasting as most suits - it would have to be part of a good-size wardrobe to make sense. Though of course it also depends how heavy the cloth is (fine wools don't have to be...
The pop-up shop is back in September, with six ne...
I’m pleased to say that the ‘Permanent Style Presents’ pop-up shop will be back on Savile Row in September, featuring six new brands, and a dedicated week for Bryceland’s. We will be in the same place, in the same...
The pop-up shop is back in September, with six ne...
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Hi Jonathan, It's not I'm afraid, but this is all really useful. I did try a prototype of the sweater in grey but the melange is not great in a fine merino sweater like this - not like a normal mid-weight cashmere. Out o...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on in person (always particularl...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
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Thanks Ethan, and well noted...
The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces
Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas trousers. Some of th...
The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces
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that's a great insight - thank you!...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the ones I’ve alr...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
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Slim...
Sapayol bespoke leather jacket: Review
Sapayol is an online leather-jacket company, offering made-to-measure pieces manufactured in Turkey. Like many start-ups, it was founded by a young guy who thought there was a hole in the market - but had no prior experience in the industry. Here it...
Sapayol bespoke leather jacket: Review
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All credit to this guy - the unfortunate thing about this type of garment is that they are at their best when they are well worn and battered. You have remarked on this several times in other posts. I can't say that I'm ...
Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans
Although I applaud the resurrection of British craft, it is the quality of the work itself - rather than where it takes place - that I’ve always thought should be the consumer’s priority. So while it was lovely to know Blackhorse Lane At...
Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans
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Thanks, nice tip...
