My favourite jeans: Bryceland’s, Rubato, Blackhor...

May 1st 2024

My favourite jeans largely come from brands that make in Japan, using Japanese denim, but that tweak the fit to make it their own. I don’t think it’s any coincidence that they’re also classic-menswear brands, who make or at least a...

My favourite jeans: Bryceland’s, Rubato, Blackhor...

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Not a big difference, probably less than an inch. I'd say it's a reason to go down a size if you're between sizes, but not to size down from your regular size...

DenimMay 1st 2024

Christmas Gift List 2023: Do not read!

December 8th 2023

Permanent Style reader, this is not for you. This is intended for your wife/husband/partner/child/dog, in an attempt to help source a Christmas present for someone who, let’s face it, is very fussy in general but particularly about clothing. ...

Christmas Gift List 2023: Do not read!

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I'd go off the shoes primarily, and I think both suede or leather would be fine, I don't think leather would be too smart...

Belts and wallets - Black tieDecember 8th 2023

What makes quality jeans – and should you c...

May 25th 2022

A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass production doesn’t necessaril...

What makes quality jeans – and should you c...

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Nice to hear Shem, and a self-aware choice...

DenimMay 25th 2022

Reader profile: Andy

March 25th 2022

This is Andy. A long-time reader and customer, Andy had led, shall we say, an interesting life. Currently a hydrographic surveyor, he has also been a pilot, a mountaineer, and dabbles as a model (fashion and life). He is passionate about clothing, ...

Reader profile: Andy

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Thanks Willie my man. Appreciate your comments mate, I'll have to give you a big hug as you are sitting only about 10 feet away from me in the offline room just now. Top hat and goggles - Its the way to go and of course,...

Coats - HatsMarch 25th 2022

How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)

November 19th 2021

I recently had my vintage Levi’s repaired a couple of times by the team at Blackhorse Lane. The first time for a rip in the knee, and the second to reinforce the crotch seams. It’s wonderful to be able to do that. The jeans are just as s...

How jeans can be repaired (and when they can’t)

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I think the latter myself Ryan...

DenimNovember 19th 2021

Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut

September 29th 2021

  Chinos from tailors never feel like chinos. Why is this? I used to think I knew the answer: the fabrics they used were too fine – dress cottons, made with fine fibres, finished for a sleek look and good drape. Chinos, even lu...

Real bespoke chinos, in design, cloth and cut

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Probably dark brown and washed navy, but I'm not sure I'd go much beyond the ones you have, to be honest Stephan. You don't need that many. I'd see chinos as more a base for more interesting things to work around, with t...

Casual clothing - TrousersSeptember 29th 2021

Carreducker remote-fitted bespoke boots: Review

August 2nd 2021

I think when craftsmen are doing remote fittings, they err on the safe side. That’s one consistency I can draw from my online bespoke over the past year. Whether it’s with WW Chan , Massura or Ferdinando Caraceni in tailoring, Carreduc...

Carreducker remote-fitted bespoke boots: Review

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I wouldn't wear them with a suit I'm afraid. They're far too chunky. It would have to be something really casual like a heavy tweed or heavy cord for it to work, and a fresco would be too smart I think. Sorry...

ShoesAugust 2nd 2021

Blackhorse Lane chinos: Review

July 19th 2021

This review of Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) chinos might serve two purposes. First, it covers the London maker as part of our ongoing series on chinos - which you can see all chapters of here. And second, it reviews Blackhorse Lane's made-to-mea...

Blackhorse Lane chinos: Review

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Yes, though you can see that from the measurements too...

TrousersJuly 19th 2021

The Western shirt four ways (with Begg & Co ...

June 14th 2021

One of the reasons Western and denim shirts have been so popular in recent years is their versatility. On the one hand, their conventional pale blue means they sit easily beneath all manner of jackets or suits, while adding an intentional, unexpect...

The Western shirt four ways (with Begg & Co ...

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Nice. Thank you Guy...

Shirts - StyleJune 14th 2021

Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans

May 12th 2021

About two years ago, I started a process helping Blackhorse Lane set up a made-to-measure system for their jeans. Some PS readers took part in an early trial, which mostly went well, but several things - particularly Covid - consistently got in the...

Blackhorse Lane made-to-measure jeans

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Simon, I agree with this sentiment!!! A good fit and style is worth that expense. I may pay Blackhorse a visit pretty soon. Pair your Blackhorse jeans or indeed any jeans with one of Tim Hardy’s of Worcestershire fanta...

DenimMay 12th 2021

How to wash and wear raw denim

March 26th 2021

People get in a real muddle over raw denim. A reader commented a couple of weeks ago that he didn’t like it because ‘you’re never allowed to wash it’. Of course you can wash raw denim. You might want to wash it less, at the ...

How to wash and wear raw denim

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Nice, pleased to hear it Jim. These pieces are so great when they become references...

DenimMarch 26th 2021

How jeans can be altered

January 29th 2021

One of the big disadvantages of jeans over tailored trousers is their inability to be altered. It means that, over the years, they’re less able to adapt as you change shape. And given that a key appeal is their longevity - that in fact, jeans...

How jeans can be altered

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As long as it wasn't too much, so it doesn't start to shorten the yoke at the back too much, then in theory it would be possible. But you're basically taking apart a large part of the jeans and remaking them, so it would...

DenimJanuary 29th 2021

Introducing: The Madras linen

March 13th 2020

There is a certain preponderance among men to order bespoke shirts in loud checks. This must be the case, because most patterned materials offered for bespoke are bright and loud. Even though the ones available in a mill’s full collection - o...

Introducing: The Madras linen

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Can someone tell me why this second hand Ralph Lauren madras shirt has DRAWSTRINGS on the inside along each side seam. I've found this identical shirt for sale at a number of aftermarket sights, and none of them show or ...

ShirtsMarch 13th 2020

The Trench Coat with casual wear

September 13th 2019

Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing, and that makes sense. I&rsq...

The Trench Coat with casual wear

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Thanks Dave...

Denim - HatsSeptember 13th 2019

Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...

September 11th 2019

Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products out carefully on display. It...

Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...

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They did, yes. It certainly wouldn't be as long lasting as most suits - it would have to be part of a good-size wardrobe to make sense. Though of course it also depends how heavy the cloth is (fine wools don't have to be...

Bags - ClothSeptember 11th 2019

The pop-up shop is back in September, with six ne...

July 19th 2019

  I’m pleased to say that the ‘Permanent Style Presents’ pop-up shop will be back on Savile Row in September, featuring six new brands, and a dedicated week for Bryceland’s. We will be in the same place, in the same...

The pop-up shop is back in September, with six ne...

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Hi Jonathan, It's not I'm afraid, but this is all really useful. I did try a prototype of the sweater in grey but the melange is not great in a fine merino sweater like this - not like a normal mid-weight cashmere. Out o...

July 19th 2019

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

November 16th 2018

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on in person (always particularl...

The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery

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after buying 1 blackhorse lane jeans and a pair of Oni denim and going down the rabbit hole for about 2 weeks... for jeans durability sweet spot seems to be 15-20 Oz. anything less "rubs out" quicker, anything more "brea...

Denim - November 16th 2018

The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

November 12th 2018

Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas trousers. Some of th...

The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces

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When I say casual, I tend to mean more play, going to the park with the kids, that kind of thing. I'd dress up a little more for a social occasion like a barbecue or something...

Bags - Casual clothingNovember 12th 2018

Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018

October 10th 2018

  A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the ones I’ve alr...

Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018

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Yes good point, I think that was more a case of how I came to feel about the PWVC cut over time, rather than changing my tastes. But yes shetlands I definitely wear less. Apart from those two I wear Colhay's, Bryceland's...

Casual clothing - HatsOctober 10th 2018

Sapayol bespoke leather jacket: Review

September 12th 2018

Sapayol is an online leather-jacket company, offering made-to-measure pieces manufactured in Turkey. Like many start-ups, it was founded by a young guy who thought there was a hole in the market - but had no prior experience in the industry. Here it...

Sapayol bespoke leather jacket: Review

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All credit to this guy - the unfortunate thing about this type of garment is that they are at their best when they are well worn and battered. You have remarked on this several times in other posts. I can't say that I'm ...

Casual clothingSeptember 12th 2018

Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans

February 14th 2018

Although I applaud the resurrection of British craft, it is the quality of the work itself - rather than where it takes place - that I’ve always thought should be the consumer’s priority. So while it was lovely to know Blackhorse Lane At...

Blackhorse Lane – innovative, sartorial jeans

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Thanks, nice tip...

DenimFebruary 14th 2018