A guide to linen bunches – 2018

June 15th 2018

This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers ...

A guide to linen bunches – 2018

This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers ...

ClothJune 15th 2018

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

April 16th 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide ...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide ...

ClothApril 16th 2018

Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you wear?

February 28th 2018

Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their r...

Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you wear?

Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their r...

Casual wear - StyleFebruary 28th 2018

Ballantyne/Berk cashmere available again

October 2nd 2016

UPDATE: Original article published in 2013 The article in the bottom of this post was originally published in September 2013, when Berk in the Burlington Arcade was closing. Ballantyne, the factory, was shutting do...

Ballantyne/Berk cashmere available again

UPDATE: Original article published in 2013 The article in the bottom of this post was originally published in September 2013, when Berk in the Burlington Arcade was closing. Ballantyne, the factory, was shutting do...

Casual wear - KnitwearOctober 2nd 2016

The corduroy suit

September 9th 2016

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal envir...

The corduroy suit

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal envir...

Casual jackets - ClothSeptember 9th 2016

Italy’s mills and merchants explained

July 29th 2013

  This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Ital...

Italy’s mills and merchants explained

  This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Ital...

Cloth - How toJuly 29th 2013

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

April 15th 2013

I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among besp...

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among besp...

Cloth - TailoringApril 15th 2013

Bresciani – factory visit

December 23rd 2011

Most of the factories I visit present few surprises in the manufacturing process. I’ve seen a lot of looms, from Hattersleys made in 1910 to the latest air-pressure machines that make up most of the production at L...

Bresciani – factory visit

Most of the factories I visit present few surprises in the manufacturing process. I’ve seen a lot of looms, from Hattersleys made in 1910 to the latest air-pressure machines that make up most of the production at L...

Accessories - Factory visitsDecember 23rd 2011

Half-lined and unlined jackets

May 7th 2010

An image-heavy post this week, to illustrate options for summer jackets. In particular, those half-lined and unlined. An unlined jacket is a nice way to create greater ventilation in hotter temperatures. The major disadv...

Half-lined and unlined jackets

An image-heavy post this week, to illustrate options for summer jackets. In particular, those half-lined and unlined. An unlined jacket is a nice way to create greater ventilation in hotter temperatures. The major disadv...

Jackets - TailoringMay 7th 2010

The details of Pal Zileri Sartoriale

January 18th 2010

Italian brands like Canali, Corneliani, Zegna and Pal Zileri all place a lot of emphasis upon the family ethic of their production and the hand-made nature of their suits. At least with the highest label, such as Zegna&r...

The details of Pal Zileri Sartoriale

Italian brands like Canali, Corneliani, Zegna and Pal Zileri all place a lot of emphasis upon the family ethic of their production and the hand-made nature of their suits. At least with the highest label, such as Zegna&r...

TailoringJanuary 18th 2010

The Rake: A real style magazine

March 3rd 2009

Finally. A magazine that professes to be about men’s style and actually dedicates most of its content to that topic. Finally. A magazine that takes men’s style seriously enough to include a regular section on...

The Rake: A real style magazine

Finally. A magazine that professes to be about men’s style and actually dedicates most of its content to that topic. Finally. A magazine that takes men’s style seriously enough to include a regular section on...

March 3rd 2009

Behind the scenes: A Suit That Fits

February 27th 2009

It is always rewarding to get a look behind the scenes of a company. Nothing beats it for an insight into the philosophy, working practices and dedication to detail present in the production process. I was fortunate enou...

Behind the scenes: A Suit That Fits

It is always rewarding to get a look behind the scenes of a company. Nothing beats it for an insight into the philosophy, working practices and dedication to detail present in the production process. I was fortunate enou...

Suits - TailoringFebruary 27th 2009