Tengri: Sustainable, luxurious yak fibre
February 28th 2020Anyone that has been on or around Savile Row in the past year would have likely come across the force of nature that is Nancy Johnston (above), founder of Tengri, and her yak fibre. Nancy is a social worker, traveller and campaigner, who founded Te...
Tengri: Sustainable, luxurious yak fibre
Match in comments:
Hi Simon, hope your coat is holding up and keeping you warm this winter. Phong, Khangai yak fabrics is relatively new to the world, so it hasn't been wear-tested for years but I can say all our fabrics are heavily tested...
The guide to winter shirt fabrics
January 3rd 2020I’m a relatively new convert to winter shirts. Although I’ve had brushed cottons in the past (such as my grey made by Simone Abbarchi, above) it’s only this season that I’ve started wearing heavier flannels and cor...
The guide to winter shirt fabrics
Match in comments:
Oatmeal is harder in a shirt generally - if you don't like cream then I'd go white but maybe in a different fabric...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
October 21st 2019This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months. The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and asked what the cloth was - but by ...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
Match in comments:
The suit or tailoring is whether we like it or not on a decline. Many corporate offices no longer require a suit or even a blazer / jacket unless you are meeting clients. On the street suits and blazer / jackets are rare...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
September 11th 2019Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products out carefully on display. It...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
Match in comments:
They did, yes. It certainly wouldn't be as long lasting as most suits - it would have to be part of a good-size wardrobe to make sense. Though of course it also depends how heavy the cloth is (fine wools don't have to be...
Introducing: Escorial Tweed
August 28th 2019Today, the question I get more than any other is: what cloth should I use for a sports jacket? Selecting cloth for a jacket is not easy, at least once you’ve gone beyond the navy blazer. Compared to a navy or grey suit, there's a dizzying ran...
Introducing: Escorial Tweed
Match in comments:
Hi Chancellor, did the pilling stopped after some treatment like drycleaning etc.?...
A guide to high-twist bunches
July 1st 2019This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...
A guide to high-twist bunches
Match in comments:
Yep, that's what I meant. Hot weather gear with some airflow. Thanks!...
Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...
June 12th 2019Why did the Japanese spend all day screaming at Douglas? How does Gianluca think Italian artisans are being dishonest? This conversation between myself, Gianluca Migliarotti of Pommella trousers, and Douglas Cordeaux of Fox Brothers, I think qualifi...
Video: Douglas Cordeaux and Gianluca Migliarotti ...
Match in comments:
I'm sure it was Fox Brothers, but other than that I don't know, sorry...
Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...
June 10th 2019I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on...
Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...
Match in comments:
It was covered on this post Rups...
The guide to synthetic and performance cloth
May 20th 2019[This is the latest in a series of posts on Cloth that has now built into something very substantial: browse the others on the dedicated page here] The use of synthetic fibres in cloth for tailoring is generally frowned upon by consumers, ...
The guide to synthetic and performance cloth
Match in comments:
Alright, at least there was slightly more elastane in it. Thanks, Simon....
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
March 22nd 2019This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the ranges develop. While Cacciopp...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019
Match in comments:
I do understand. No worries. Thanks again Lindsay...
The Guide to Performance Shirtings
March 1st 2019Performance fabrics are very in. Every retailer seems to be offering travel shirts that resist wrinkling, staining or soaking. Fans of classic clothing are usually sceptical about such fabrics. This is largely because they can seem like a ...
The Guide to Performance Shirtings
Match in comments:
Personally I really don't mind having slightly wrinkled shirts, though I rarely travel with menswear so it never gets all that bad. In the case of linen, I quite like the rumpled and typical look of it. Unfortunately not...
The Joshua Ellis mill: Factory visit
February 15th 2019The Joshua Ellis mill is just outside Batley. That’s not a name many readers will associate with British cloth. They’re more likely to know Huddersfield for suits, or Scotland for tweed and cashmere, and with the recent popularly of Fox,...
The Joshua Ellis mill: Factory visit
Match in comments:
For a scarf? Yes I do think Begg is superior, but it's small and also varies with the materials used - eg Begg scarf in a cashmere/wool mix or in a different weight or weave wouldn't be as soft as one elsewhere. Often th...
Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair
February 11th 2019They said Milano Unica was like Pitti without the peacocks. That was partly true. Certainly, there are no photographers, so even though many of the same people visit Milano Unica (MU), they're not on display. Everyone is noticeably more relaxed: the...
Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair
Match in comments:
Oh good, nice to know thanks George...
Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de ...
December 28th 2018You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admired Michael Hill’s green-...
Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de ...
Match in comments:
I think it looks quite nice actually...
The guide to overcoating cloths
December 17th 2018When selecting a cloth for an overcoat, what should you look for? This might seem like a pretty easy question: you want warmth. That’s what an overcoat is for. But how much warmth, and where it comes from, are not straightforward. As...
The guide to overcoating cloths
Match in comments:
I’ve also been considering that cloth. If you went with it, I’d appreciate hearing about how it went...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018
October 19th 2018This is the second post we've done highlighting our favourite cloths from new seasonal bunches. The first, on Spring/Summer 2018, is here. Unfortunately the bunches come in late in the season, but there's still probably time to use these recommendat...
The guide to cashmere and precious fibres
October 1st 2018Luxury fibres like cashmere or vicuna can make lovely, indulgent cloths for sports jackets. Having mostly stuck to linen, tweed or related mixes in recent years, I recently commissioned a jacket in 100% cashmere (from Eduardo de Simone) and it’...
The guide to cashmere and precious fibres
Match in comments:
I think that would feel like a heavy weight but could be very nice. Make sure it's not cut too tight so you have room given the thickness of the cloth...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Atelier...
September 19th 2018Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the Institut National Metiers d&r...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Atelier...
Match in comments:
I don't actually Jonas - if you find one let me know...
Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern
August 10th 2018This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke. It will continue to be added to over the next few ...
Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern
Match in comments:
Thank you so much!...
Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...
July 25th 2018Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particula...
Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...
Match in comments:
No, the A&S will be better, but that's clear from the price too. And the difference will be mostly in the fineness of the linen, so it depends whether that matters to you...
A guide to linen bunches
June 15th 2018This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers need to see, or request. And t...
The Guide to Linen
May 28th 2018Linen has long been a favourite for tailoring intended for hot weather. Its prime appeal is it’s cool to the touch (a lot more than wool, and a little more than cotton) because the fibre is a good conductor. Metal feels cool for the same re...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018
April 16th 2018Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would quickly be out of date. ...
The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018
Match in comments:
It depends a lot on the trouser. With high-twist wools, no. With flannel or tailoring cottons, yes quite a lot...
The Guide to Tweed
April 2nd 2018In many ways, tweed should be the perfect material for a modern man. It is practical, hard wearing, and can be dressed up or down, from almost-formal to definitely-casual. On the formal side, a navy tweed jacket, grey worsted trousers and button-dow...
The Guide to Tweed
Match in comments:
I’m sure you meant to say less consistent here, rather than more....
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
February 12th 2018*Cloth now sold out. Fox are taking pre-orders for the next batch* At our pop-up shop back in April 2017, Fox Brothers brought up some vintage bolts to offer readers, including a rather beautiful ecru cavalry twill. I bought a length myself, and s...
Fox re-weave my ecru cavalry twill
Match in comments:
Good advice - thanks! Worst case scenario, I suppose I could just claim a bad case of the runs....
