The next talk with Rubato, and pop-up shop updates
I’m pleased to say that the next in our series of talks at Mortimer House will be with Oliver and Carl from Rubato, on March 31st.
These events have a really nice atmosphere, with everyone milling around, browsing the products and chatting to the speaker(s) and each other. Then we normally hang around for a afterwards couple of beers as well, often picking up on topics from the talk.
I’m sure readers will be interested to hear about how and why Oliver and Carl founded Rubato, but they’re also very thoughtful about style in general - some of the most interesting discussions I’ve had recently have been with them over dinner, about the links between art and style, or modern trends around comfort and simplicity.
As per usual, the event will start at 6:30pm, with the talk itself beginning at 7pm. Please RSVP to [email protected] if you would like to attend - it’s essential so we have names on the door.
That talk will be on the Friday of our pop-up on Savile Row - the week when Permanent Style will be there with its products, alongside Rubato.
As a result we won’t do an opening party for the pop-up (two parties in three days seems a little emuch!) But we will be doing some more events in the coming months, so there’ll be no lack of opportunities to socialise. Details soon.
There are also some updates on the pop-up. The dates, first, to confirm are:
- Fox (next week): 13-18 March, Monday to Saturday (opening times on their site)
- Marrkt and Abbots: 23-25 March, Thursday to Saturday
- Permanent Style and Rubato: 29 March-April 1, Wednesday to Saturday
- L.E.J: April 17-May 13 (four weeks)
And the updates and details:
- Fox will be running a series of events during their week, as well as an archive sale throughout. They can all be seen in detail on the Merchant Fox website. Opening times vary there too.
- Marrkt will have a small collection of my clothes again, alongside their pre-owned clothing, and I’ll be there on the Thursday for questions about them.
- Abbots pre-owned shoes will be joining Marrkt for the duration, which brings in a good range of Goodyear-welted shoes, all refurbished for sale. Their site is here.
- Rubato will have stock and try-ons: pretty much all things available to try-on, just not rollnecks; and stock in most things, just not always every size and every colour. They also have new launches: outerwear and a new colour of the officer’s chino (a nice paler khaki) plus the cardigans etc they just launched online
- L.E.J have had to delay their pop-up dates so stock has time to arrive. So just note the opening is two weeks later, although the whole event is still running for four weeks.
I think that’s it, though any questions please do ask. I've tried both the Rubato cardigans (below) and the new trouser colour if anyone has any questions about those.
Looking forward to seeing everybody.
Looking forward to the Rubato talk. How do you like their new cardigans?
They’re really nice. I’d usually prefer the V neck still, but the cut is great, particularly the button orientation, doesn’t seem too tight or to become blousy at all
Hi Simon,
So envious of these events…
Will there be a recording of the talk for those of us isolated on the Continent?
Yes, absolutely
Love to hear thoughts on new Rubato cardigan and trousers… Are the cardigans a good spring option (quite keen on the pale yellow but not sure how flexible it is?)
See above on the fit. On spring, yes I think they’d be great. That yellow is punchy though, I have the V neck and it’s not easy to wear
As a satisfied customer of Abbots they are well worth their spot. I hope business is good for them.
Dear Peter,
Thank you very much for your kind comment and custom, it is very appreciated!
Adam
Abbot’s
Thanks Simon, looking forward to all the events.
Do you know if Rubato’s officer’s chinos will be part of the stock for the event?
Yes they will be
Thanks Simon. I’ve gotten two pairs already and I’m quite a fan. I see they’ve re-started doing the brown ones too, my brown pair with the PS logo inside them will become a rarity!
Absolutely, collector’s piece
Are the Rubato Officer Chino on the smart side of the chino spectrum? So they could be worn with a blazer or sports coat?
They are on the smart side. Personally I don’t like that style of trouser still with a blazer or sports coat, but that’s more personal
Hi Simon,
I can check directly with Fox if you’re unsure but, IRO of their archive sale starting on Monday, is that assumedly via their website or would it be in store only?
Just snagged a pair of those Real McCoys chinos off Marrkt last night- hoping they fit me similarly to your pics!
Cheers
Eoghan
It’s in-store only, yes. Hope you like the chinos!
Dear Simon,
I would appreciate, if you could give some details about the Rubato cardigan (size and fit)?
Best regards
Christopher
Sure. I have a medium and it’s a very good fit on me. The shape is quite large in the chest and then tapered in the waist, as you’d expect from them, but doesn’t look extreme at all
How does it compare fit-wise with the cropped A&S ones?
A much more generous fit in the chest/back and a slightly longer length. Of course, very different material too
Thank you for your response. Do you think the cardigan is as versatile as their V-neck knitwear? I have two of them and they are easy to combine and very versatile.
Appreciate your thoughts on that!
Probably not, at least for me. Both can be worn in very similar ways, but I find a cardigan is a little more of a style, risks being a little more old mannish
I would appreciate, if you maybe could write a short article on that topic? Maybe about the different „kinds“ of cardigans and how to combine them…
Sure, that could work. Though also, do search for ‘cardigan’ and look at the various pieces that have covered them over the years. There has been a lot of advice across different styles when they come up
I already did 😉 when I am looking for possible combination I am using your option for searching specific topics…
Oh good
I would enjoy hearing your overview of the Rubato cardigan and especially the sizing of the pockets. Thanks in advance Simon!
Hi. Looking forward to meeting the Marktt Team. I’ve had a productive, friendly and efficient relationship with them after discovering Marktt a couple of years ago.
I’d highly recommend them.
Are there any plans to record the talk? (I’m in the U.S.) Thanks Simon!
Yes Andrew, we’ll be recording this one again
Hi Simon,
Do you know if Rubato is planning on having some Spring/Summer collection for the months to come?
Good point, I don’t actually. Let me check with them
Hi,
We plan to bring as much stock as possible. Hopefully we’ll have something that’s to your liking!
Kind regards,
Oliver – Rubato
Hi Oliver, I really like your wool socks from this current season.
Do you plan to release any cotton socks for the warmer months?
How about your chinos? They seem to be permanently out of stock. Will they be in stock in time for the pop up shop or online?
Very cool, excited to watch the recording.
Also very interested in what kind of outerwear Rubato will be offering.
Looking forward to watching the recording!
And I think this post is the right place for saying thank you Simon for introducing Rubato to us readers. Not sure about others, but I almost certainly wouldn’t have heard of them otherwise, and instead Rubato styling is probably my main inspiration for casual (casual chic?) clothes, subtly characterful but very wearable.
Amazing. Thanks Mateusz
Looking forward to it, Simon!
This is sort of random but have any PS readers tried Rubato’s socks? Please chime in if so. Are they more of a dress or sport sock weight? Considering adding one to my order as I like the colours.
I have a pair of the wool and I’d say they’re more towards the sports end, not that fine/dressy
Simon or oliver, can you tell us more about the outerwear ?
I don’t think they’re saying anything in advance, but I’ll let Oliver add something here if he wants to
Hi Simon, would your coats be available to try on also on 29th? Thx
No, not at the event, but they will be at the pop-up on the same day (and days before and after).
We were actually trying to decide whether to bring outerwear to try on, given it’s not really the season for it. What coats were you interested in?
Id be interested to see the PeaCoat Simon if you are able to bring that one) I was hoping to get one since its a kind of 3 season coat in the UK.
OK, will do Rups
Thank you, that would be great) Got another question which I guess will be revealed at the time, but to save time during a potentially busy pop up, if we bought something from Rubato is UK rather than Swedish VAT charged? I think it would only make a small difference either way as I think the Swedish VAT is 5% more than ours.
I would have thought so, yes, though as you said, best to check with them too
To hijack the conversation, would you also be able to bring in the trenchcoat in size two?
Hey,
To be clear, yes we will bring all outerwear sizes that are in stock on the shop. If we don’t have it on the shop though, we don’t have it at all so can’t bring it. We do have one size 2 trenchcoat
Cheers.
Simon, how are the Alden suede boots faring? Wondering if you like the modified last, how they are breaking in, etc. Cheers!
Very well, and I really like the modified last. In a boot, where the shape is less dominant, it looks great, and it fits my shape of foot really well – better than quite a lot of bespoke shoes
Simon,
This has nothing to do with today’s article but I’d like pick your brain on a fabric. Do you think it’s more suitable for a suit, or for a sports coat? I can usually tell but I’m going back and forth (and back and forth) on this one. It’s WT7 from the Fox Worsted Classics book, mid grey with faint dark blue windowpane. It’s a bit unusual compared to most windowpanes, with the check being darker than the background, but quite faint. I really like it. Thanks!
—-
https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/worsted-classics-mixed-weights/products/worsted-classics-grey-windowpane
I’d say a suit. Usually a book of ‘worsted classics’ is meant for a suit, and while it would be nice to see it in person, it looks like a fairly dense weave
Thanks. Simon, I appreciate it.
I like the look of the cardigans, the only thing that looks unexpected to me is the ribbing – a little deep, particularly on something intended to be more boxy than cinched in at the waist like a bomber etc, which is what I’d usually associate the look with – but is that just me? Not a dealbreaker for me, though.
I’d say the Rubato knits in general are meant to be fairly cinched at the waist – they’re V shaped rather than boxy (like a square). Do you have any of the other pieces?
Hi Simon,
It’s really a good thing to know that Rubato are offerting this kind of chinos! But I wonder whether it wouldn’t be a good idea if they could just add one or two colors, such as ecru //stone to expand a little bit the current palette. On the fly:Is it a matter of style to stick to buttons or even rivets? It doesn’t make sense to me at all, when we know that there are zippers suittable to this kind of fabric. Years ago, Ralph Lauren used them for chinos quite similar to these ones. A simple matter of praticality. Mind you, one doesn’t have to be a beer drinker to understand this basic wisdom.
John
Yes, the buttons are very much a matter of style.
On the colour, I find the Ivory colour covers everything I’d want in that kind of colour area?
Ok, thanks Simon. From what I’ve read so far about these trousers, they seem to be very verry good and better than the aforementioned ones made by RL in the past.
Yes, certainly. More on a par with niche Japanese brands on the workwear side, or someone like Coherence or Anatomica
Zippers would be better in my opinion. I have Rubato chinos in brown, dark khaki and ivory – I really wish they did a mid/light khaki as well.
are there any events from 10th – 18th april in london?
Just the first couple of days of the LEJ pop-up that I know of
Are you planning to do a piece on the new Rubato shirts. I find them very appealing. The downside of Rubato’s homepage, not showing models wearing their products (for most of their products that is), is that it is difficult to know how they would truly look. Are they supposed to be tucked in, or worn more like an overshirt tucked out and with a t-shirt underneath?
I’ll try and plan a piece on the one I have. They can be worn both ways, but they pretty roomy, so won’t feel like most dress shirts tucked in
Hi Simon, you’re right about them being pretty roomy. I’m sure I read somewhere that you get yours tapered in at the waist but I can’t find the comment now. Assuming I didn’t make that up, do you have someone you can recommend for shirt alterations?
I did, that’s right. I use a local alterations lady in East Dulwich, but in town I’d use Pinnas & Needles or (because they’re very full) Best Line on South Molton St
Thanks Simon – do you just get them darted or do you get them taken in at the seams?
Taken in. It’s hard because the seams never look quite the same, but then it looks wrong to have darts put in on a work shirt too
Hey Simon
Brief question about Rubato’s pop-up. Is it just a walk-in situation from weds onwards? Haven’t been to one of the pop ups yet so not quite sure how they work, only had trunk shows to go by.
Will they have purchasable stock there too? Very keen to try both a crew neck and v-neck but have been apprehensive to buy online given duty fees and the fear they may well be too short for me.
Warmly
Jackson
Hey Jackson,
Yes absolutely, just roll up, no appointment necessary. And yes there will be stock to buy, though not necessarily every style in every colour and every style – there’s a small chance you might have to buy online later.
Cheers, Simon
Jackson
Hi Simon, looking forward to visiting the pop-up, hopefully tomorrow, and seeing the new PS Oxford stripes, and in particular trying on various Rubato things. Love what they do but never had the guts to order in from Sweden without trying the fits.
I had a couple of questions, if that’s ok. First, how do you like the new lighter khaki colour in their officers’ chinos? It’s probably the chino colour I’m missing from my wardrobe, so hoping it’s a goer.
And second, can I ask which colour of their knitwear you find most versatile? And whether in crew or v-neck? I’ve had my eye on fawn for a while, as it’s not a colour I own, and looks pretty wearable. And I usually veer away from v-necks due to the old man-ish connotations. But there’s something about the Rubato ones that, by being very deliberately classic/vintage, manages to make them look the exact opposite of that, at least in pictures.
Thanks as ever.
Sure Joe.
I haven’t really tried the new colour of chino enough yet, but I’d say it was quite a conventional, slightly more yellow chino colour, whereas the other they have is browner – I find that more useful, but the new one is nice too.
On the knits, I think a crewneck will always be more versatile, if that’s your priority. And a beige/fawn or a dark brown would be very versatile, though navy or grey are always going to be the ones I wear most.
Hi Simon, do you think Rubato’s new lighter khaki chinos are warm tone? I am thinking of pairing them with their black cotton sweater but if they have yellow in the colour would they be too stark?
Many thank,
Jack
They are a little warmer, but I think they’re still neutral enough for black probably, yes
Hi Simon,
What time do you close the PS pop-up shop today? Apologies if I’ve missed the hours of opening stated elsewhere.
No worries, I think I might have forgotten actually. Same as last time – 10-6
Hi Simon, what are opening times?
10-6
A real shame I couldn’t make it to London this week. I’m intrigued by the new khaki colour chinos from the Rubato guys mentioned in this article (particularly as they don’t appear on the website yet). Did they bring them along? As I know my size, is there scope to buy remotely and collect later somehow do you think?
They did bring them, yes. They’ll be online later, but no it’s not really possible to pick them up from anywhere later
Hi Rob,
The new color chinos will be available within a few days online as well. Keep an eye out!
Kind regards,
Oliver
Oliver – excellent. I will do. Best wishes.
What time does the pop up close today?
6pm
Hi simon, i’m wondering having you seen the rubato alabaster workshirt (Work Shirt in Alabaster – Rubato (atemporubato.com)) during your popup? I like the design and fabric but I’m wondering if the shirt is actually very yellow. Do you think it looks okay worn with khaki chinos at the bottom or would it look off/wierd becuase the entire look is too yellow.
It wasn’t that yellow in person, no. It is quite a coarse, open fabric, which is unusual and very breathable, but that doesn’t necessarily come across online either
Thanks simon. Do you think it works like a white shirt and can be paired with khakis below?
Yes
Simon,
Curious how you have historically sized in the Rubato v-neck and crewneck knitwear? I seem to remember that you have tried both a medium and a large. I have about a 99 cm chest, and about 46-46 cm shoulders. I think I’ve realized we are similar size. I think you may have covered this elsewhere, but I can’t seem to find the article or comments.
It’s been covered in a few pieces Wilson, but I’d say between the sizes now, I’m a solid medium
Thank you, Simon.
I like the Rubato Ware Sweatshirt for an elevated casual look. Would you pick brown or desert first?
I think desert is a good partner for dark and mid blue jeans and chinos in white/offwhite, navy or olive, but it will not pair well with almost any shades of beige. Brown will work with almost any if these trousers, so it might be more versatile.
I like both, just can not decide.
I like brown myself, because it’s only a little unusual but is also so versatile
Thanks Simon. I will choose brown then for versatility and a more subtle appereance. Along with the grey v-neck sweater and cream denim work shirt I am really excited for my first order.
Nice!
Hi Simon. Are there plans to have the PS stock back in the pop-up anytime soon?
I’m not sure if we’ll be in the same location, but the plan is always to do the pop-up with PS products twice a year – Spring and Autumn for four days each. And then once a year in New York.
So the next one will be in September or October some time
Hey Simon,
I’m in the market for some new crewneck jumpers and have been looking at Rubato for this. How do you find the fit of these? I’m generally medium in a lot of things (40 in some Italian brands for jackets, medium PS t-shirt) but I prefer a slightly shorter body (e.g. in the case of the PS t-shirt it is better for me to have it tucked in), would Rubato suit in that case? As for the fabric I’ve always avoided lambswool for fear of it scratching, though I know merino is still lambswool, hopefully this wouldn’t be a concern for the Rubato jumpers?
I also like the look of the chinos, I have a few of BHL’s Japanese twill ones but I’d like a beige colour and I find their stone a bit too cold. Have you tried the dark khaki or oak colours of Rubato’s chinos?
Cheers!
Hi Richard,
If you like a shorter fit then the Rubato should be good for you, yes. Have you compared the measurements to a knit you already own? They are deliberately big in the chest as well.
I don’t find the lambswool scratchy, but it does get a bit of getting used to over just a T-shirt.
I have the dark khaki colour, yes, and it’s very nice.
Excellent thanks Simon.
No I’ve not made a comparison but that will be my next job. I don’t suppose there are any other brands with a similar fit that aren’t 100% lambswool (ideally in a similar price bracket)? Or maybe somewhere that stocks a jumper of similar hand to the Rubato ones that I could try in person?
Is the dark khaki closer to a taupe to the naked eye?
Cheers
I’d say the colours online are pretty accurate with the chinos.
There isn’t really something with a similar fit, no, which is why some people like them so much – but they have done cashmere and other luxury fibres in the past, so you never know they might do some again
Thanks Simon
Hi Simon, how do you compare with Rubato and Colhay’s in knitwear? I know it’s quite subjective and both brands are great, but I would be interested in your insight about their quality, cut or any subtle difference.
There are quite significant differences. The Rubato cut is a little unusual – a little shorter, a little fuller in the chest. They also tend to use lambswool rather than cashmere, which is a little chunky, hard-wearing but not as luxurious. The quality is no different unless you’re looking at the hand-framed pieces from Rubato (nonpareil they call them)