August Special, Besnard, Haversack: Autumn highlights 2024
1. Snow Peak Boa Fleece jacket
£220, Large
If a Permanent Style reader wanted a good fleece - for park wear as much as mountain wear - this Snow Peak one ticks most of the boxes. It’s a nice style, in a good fleece, without any obvious branding and certainly different to that Patagonia everyone is wearing.
I like the design, with the curved mobile pocket on the chest echoed by the large waist pockets, and two stuff pockets on the back. It’s been out of stock for a while, but I’m assured by the store it’s coming back in next week. They fit fairly small, so I’d size up if in doubt.
2. August Special ‘Marraka’ chukka boot
£503, 9.5 US
August Special is an American shoe brand founded by ex-RRL designer Joseph Pollard. We met earlier this year and chatted more in New York during the pop-up. His shoes are an impressive mix of rugged style and elevated make, with a particular focus on comfort. They look better the more they're worn.
We’ll be covering him more on PS, as it’s an interesting product and I’ve now tried a few of the shoes. For the moment though, I’m going to recommend the chukka boot - it’s modelled off an old flying boot, using unlined full-grain suede that’s thick and comfortable, and a foam footbed that makes it more comfortable still. The last shape is also like a moderate version of the modified last, which I know will work well for a lot of people.
£2500
I’ve never had a really practical overnight bag - the kind with sections for a laptop, for a shirt and underwear, with pockets I will actually use because I have foreign cash, sunglasses, a watch cap. The closest thing is my old Filson, but that’s very battered and often not smart enough.
The best example I found was this from Connolly, and I’ve used it for a few months now. I was torn between that and the Sea Bag - the latter has more style but is probably less practical. Both are expensive, but very well made and for a luxe look and make such as this, there are few good options outside the big designer brands.
$446, Large
A friend has one of these sweaters, and I’ve always liked it. Then during the New York pop-up a reader came in wearing one, which reminded me I should mention the company on Permanent Style sometime. Hence the entry.
Granted are a tiny operation in Canada, hand-knitting traditional cardigans to order. They take about 4-5 weeks and the quality is good. The wool isn’t quite the same as some I’ve had (eg from RRL) but they’re more wearable than the really heavy ones I've had from the likes of Canadian Sweater Co. The designs are also quite ‘fun’ but there are patterned ones mixed in there too - like the lovely Links Motif above.
£169, Large
This isn’t really Autumn wear, but I only got one of these to try relatively late in the summer so it’s only now I’ve worn it enough to recommend it. Besnard is a new menswear shop in Haarlem (The Netherlands) started by Victor Besnard, whose family included bespoke tailors way back.
They do mostly RTW and some MTM, with the pieces made at a high level and usually oriented around tailoring. This polo is a little shorter than most as a result, but is a well-executed take on the skipper style - the collar sits well under a jacket and the button adds a touch of interest without being too unusual. It would be nice if there were more nice colours - I’d only wear the white, navy and navy/white stripe out of the current selection myself.
6. Atlantic Coastal Supplies beach bag
£105, Large
Atlantic Coastal Supplies is a small company based in Cornwall, England. They make a variety of beach clothing and accessories, and while I can’t comment on the clothes, I really like their beach bags. They’re tough and light, with some nice style in the colours, logo, and a very satisfying G-hook closure.
The Extra Large size is huge - for lugging actual diving gear - but the Large (above) is good for everyday use. The material is nylon canvas with a waterproof backing, and they’re made by a local sailmaker, in her spare time when not making actual sails. A nice piece and useful for lugging family gear around. The colours that are out of stock are apparently coming back in next week.
£2504, 50
The Asymmetric Coat was one of the first things that ever attracted me to Stoffa - it was such a simple design yet so distinctive. For a long time it wasn’t available, but 10 years later they’ve brought it back, and it feels so timely now - like those loose coats so many women wear, but to me better designed, more masculine, and certainly in better materials.
The waist only shows one button, but it doesn’t look unusual. The neck buttons up in parallel and makes the design cohesive. That design has also been updated today with a longer looser fit and a part-raglan sleeve. It’s expensive, like all Stoffa things, but like them you can feel the design work and can’t really get the same thing anywhere else.
8. Haversack melton wool jacket
£395, Small
Haversack doesn't get quite as much attention as other Japanese brands, perhaps because it's not as widely stocked and can be quirky in its designs. But there are some lovely pieces in the collections, they're just as well made, and the prices are often quite reasonable.
The cardigan and sweater Clutch has at the moment are both in really interesting materials, but my favourites are the navy/black outerwear pieces - the duffle coat, the melton jacket and the blouson. The duffle coat is very A-line and the proportions generally of the jackets are big and wide, but someone shorter than me would fit them well. I like the details like the frogging on the blouson (above) and the lighter weight of the melton used throughout - it still has substance but it's not as wooden as some meltons that Japanese brands use.
As they come up big, most people size down. That would be fine on me except for the length.
Hi Simon,
I have been looking for a similar bag, something that can carry laptop/ipad but also a change of clothes in a smart way. I wonder if you have tried Metier at all?
I have tried them yes, and will be covering them soon actually
I’m actually on the lookout for a decent fleece. It doesn’t have to be anything fancy but in a larger size 50” chest and the fit generous rather than tight.
Where does Snowpeak differ from Patagonia?
I don’t want a fleece that’s too warm either.
I probably wear a fleece outdoors more than anything else except a polo or T shirt in the hot Summer days.
I don’t know the technical details on how the Snow Peak is different from Patagonia, and I only have vintage Patagonia ones. Perhaps another reader can chip in. Snow Peak use Polartec fleece though, for reference
I was stubbornly opposed to fleece for a long time, but recently found some gently used versions on ebay. I have a nice, navy blue, deep pile fleece from Uniqlo. It’s sharp and gets compliments. I also have a couple lighter weight ones from the same brand and they’re a tad frumpy in appearance but seem solidly made… and of course Uniqlo, even new, is inexpensive.
Both Snow Peak and Patagonia use recycled polyester, so the materials are very similar. As Simon has highlighted, Snow Peak use Polartec, which in theory delivers more warmth in a lighter weight.
Personally, I think the handle of the Snow Peak fleece is softer than Patagonia, but that is quite subjective.
I have also found the durability and construction of Snow Peak’s clothing quite noticeably better than Patagonia.
I have a Polartec Snow Peak fleece and have found it to shed quite a bit. Maybe mine’s defective as I’ve owned Polartec fabric before that doesn’t shed.
Some quirky pieces in here, but I like them all – especially the Stoffa coat.
In a recent post, you expressed your disdain for synthetics in outerwear. I was therefore surprised to see a recommendation of a fleece jacket. What gives?
It’s not about good or bad, it’s about intended use, as I tried to make clear. The usefulness of a fleece is its lightness and quick-drying. I wouldn’t wear it generally about town or at home, as I prefer natural materials, but when camping, hiking etc, I do need a fleece.
Plus, I try to throw the net a little wider than just what I would wear, and I know other readers would appreciate a fleece recommendation
With all due respect, the statement «it’s not about good or bad», is objectively wrong. Fleece is definitely bad for the environment, and probably bad for anyone who wears it, due to exposure of microplastics.
If not the most prominent voice in the area of sustainable menswear, PS is at the least one of them. With such a position comes an amount of responsibility, that I can’t see being excercised in this endorsement.
In terms of functionality, I do acknowledge that synthetics is difficult to avoid in the top layer while sporting. But in midlayers, wool is superior. Take it from someone who uses it for skiing, hiking, boating, and running.
No hard feelings, I hope, about the somewhat crass comment. The writing, competence, and passion at PS, makes it one of my favourite publications.
No problem. The point ‘good or bad’ was not meant to encompass sustainability, more about what is the best fit of a product. And, given I prioritise synthetics for things like lightness and drying speed, in those cases a synthetic is superior. Whether you really need that or not is the biggest question, and then that need should be weighed against the sustainability point
Simon mentioned the fleece was made out of polartec. I checked their website and their product is made from recycled bottles. They have recycled 2 billion bottles to make their product, presumably many of which will have ended up in the ocean or in the ground.
Another interesting point is the environmental impact to produce the amount of wool, cotton etc to clothe the world.
In short I suspect it’s probably a more complex topic than is positioned by Sir C.
It’s indeed a complex topic, but adding cotton to the equation seems like an unnecessary detour, as we are discussing midlayers, where it’s safe to assume that noone wants cotton.
Full disclosure: I have no idea about the energy-, or all over enironmental costs, in wool production. What I do know, is that fleece garments continously dispers microplastics all through their lifespans, -no matter if they’re made from recyled plastics or not.
PS, including its readers, is a resourceful gang. Through rejecting obviously harmful materials, we can contribute to creating incentives for the industry to develop sustainable alternatives.
Interesting that you chose the Besnard skipper polo.
I have a few pairs of Besnard trousers, especially the Irish linen ones, and I really like them. Mid-rise cut, good proportions, but most importantly – and this is what drew me to them – rather heavy fabrics (e.g. their Irish linen, the corduroys or flannel) which are harder to find on the European continent than in England.
However, I found their skipper polo misguided. The one button just doesn’t look right to me, making the collar very flat (somewhat like a henley, I am not a fan of), but of course that’s a matter of taste.
Yes I think it’s very much a question of whether you like that skipper style or not
I recently discovered Besnard as well and they have a really impressive range of things at a level of taste and make that is pretty much non-existent in the Netherlands otherwise. The skipper polo is also not for me but the trousers, jackets, knitwear, belts etc. are definitely in my street. The shop itself is in Haarlem by the way, not in The Hague (different province, the original Besnard was in The Hague but more than a hundred years ago apparently). Thanks for the interesting selection and have a great weekend
Thank you Jan, I’ll correct that
Hi Simon,
Wondering if you had any thoughts on August Special’s Belliver Boot?
I see that it’s on the same last as the chukka, and many of the listed details are the same, but wanted to know if you had any specific notes on that model.
I don’t think so, no. It’s the same in most respects – I just liked the suede colour on mine, and was interested in trying a lower boot
How has the last been working for you? I’m a big fan of the Modified, but it’s not an easy one to find
Other brands make anatomically correct lasts, but they either lean a bit too much on the fashion side of things (such as Officine Creative, with their Hive, Arc, and Anatomia lasts) or the work wear side of things (usually with Munson-like lasts, offered by the likes of John Lofgren).
The last has worked very well for me. The loafers were a tiny bit different and a little narrow, but the boot is really good. Not quite as close in the heel and waist as the modified last, or as banana-shaped at the front – a moderate version of it basically. But that’s a real improvement for me, and means the shape doesn’t look as unusual as a modified-last shoe either
Simon,
May I ask what size did to you take in the Marraka Chukka boot?
I ask because we have a similar shoe sizing. Thanks.
9.5
I can’t find anything on the Connolly website that shows the dimensions of the bag.
That seems a little strange.
In the ‘details and measurements’ tab?
Ah yes, thanks. I simply saw the Sizing link, which only said “one size”.
Something odd with the formatting here
2. August Special ‘Marraka’ chukka boot
£503, 9.5 US
what’s the 9.5 text for ? and on item 7
no need to post this
That’s the size I took Jon. People often ask for it
The Connolly bag is lovely. I prefer a similar full “zip around” rather than a top load duffle or hard case wheelie. They are light carry-ons, allow easy folding of clothes and hold a lot. Plus the old style suitcase clamshell look is appealing. But they are pricey and hard to source. I have bags from Maxwell Scott in leather and Thomas Riemer in suede. Both north of $1000. I can vouch for both although the MS leather is lacking in patina. The bag from TR is beautifully made and highly recommended. I considered Metier but the price point was beyond my reach. Looking forward to that review.
Thanks for the other recommendations Robert
All lovely, yet with the fleece being polyester, I’d reject it on environmental grounds. Polyester is still necessary for sport, yet it is one of the three largest sources of microplastics in our environment, the other 2 being car tyres and commercial fishing nets. Everytime polyester is washed, it releases microplastics into the waste water. Sewage treatment works do not remove microplastics. At present, I own nothing made of polyester except swim shorts.
I share your concerns, and with this in mind went looking for alternatives and discovered Woolf Fleece, who make plastic free fleece jackets. They’re merino, but in appearance and function, the jacket is a typical outdoorsy fleece. Having bought one, I’d say it’s the equal of the one in the article above (the fabric is woven in a Yorkshire mill and the jackets are made in the UK).
Hi Simon. How do the boots check out from a quality perspective? Are they of a “Northampton standard”, or is it more a case of decent quality and you are paying for the design?
I’d say they are of Northampton standard and even above in some ways – a slim welt, a slim bevel on the waist, that comfy foam insole
Thanks, Simon. I enjoy articles like this as they often introduce me to new makers or items (hello, Granted!). I’ve been eyeing the Connolly 48 hour bag as I’m in need of something for short business trips (1 night, 2 max). I’ve been weighing it against the Bennet Winch Weekender and am at a stalemate. I believe you’ve had experience with both. Are you able to share thoughts on the option you’d recommend? The Connolly bag is just beautiful to me, but the Weekender shows a lot of utility.
The Weekended is much more casual and sporty to me. The Connolly is a smarter bag, great for business or being slightly more elegant. Bennett Winch is general isn’t so good for that kind of look
Beitrag
Hi Simon,
thank you for your interesting article. I own similar colored chukka boots in suede. Initially, when I bought them years ago, they seemed to be a good idea, but in hindsight, I struggled to combine them. So they sit mostly in the closet.
Good trouser colors seem, as you wrote in past articles, in the cream and sand/tan range. But this colors work best in sunny weather (as you wrote, too). The weather in my area is often cloudy or foggy.
Would or how would you wear tan colored shoes like them in cloudy autumn weather?
Would you combine them nowadays in an other way?
Cheers,
Stephan
I wear them a lot with mid-blue denim Stephan – which is my casual default trouser
Hi Simon, quick question inspired by two items on this (great) list, if I may: have you seen or maybe even tried the Connolly car boots?
https://www.connollyengland.com/collections/shoes/products/car-boot-high-tobacco
What do you think of them? Looks like a really nice option for something in between chukkas and desert boots but a bit smarter than the ones from August Special. I haven’t seen them in real life but they look great to me on the basis of the website pics and presumably a pretty good quality make given the brand… Thank you!
They’re nice, I have tried them and they’re comfortable and stylish – not as smart as a chukka from a Northampton brand, but smarter than an Alden. A simple make like a desert boot usually is, so different in that way to the August
Hi Simon, thank you for this infomrative piece for some more casual options for this weather! I wonder you feel about the rubber outsole on the chukka? I usually feel that they could be a little too rugged for trousers — or is it the case you would mainly just be wearing them with jeans?
I’d just wear them with jeans and more casual chinos, yes
Dear Simon, thank you for bringing these chukkas to our attention!
Regarding sizing, the website states that all shoes are E width – isn’t that wide compared to what you wear otherwise?
Also, you mentioned you need space for your toes, this sounds like providing ample space as compared to e.g. Anglo Italian chukka with low toe profile?
No I normally wear an E width, it’s only Aldens that I’m sometimes narrower.
They do have a higher toe profile than Anglo, who are usually an exception there. But I actually meant space around them more than above them
Simon, I like the look of the fleece featured here. But I don’t really know anything about fleeces or have anything to compare it with. I’ve always generally been averse to them as I thought of them as a bit bland, very synthetic and certainly not stylish. However I’ve recently started to think they look extremely practical. Would you consider doing some sort of mini guide to the good options that are currently available?
Sure Rowan. As I said I’d only wear them in specific circumstances, but can definitely do something more in depth to help in those circumstances
I liked the look of the August Special boots so went to look on their website. However, after adding taxes of £111.70, duty of £21.48 and delivery of £30, the price is in fact £670. Would you say the price is still worth it?
That is pushing it. I’d say it could still be worth it if the fit and make really works well for you, but of course hard to tell that for sure remotely
So really only for those in the US. I could wait until I’m next in the US but not sure if they have a store to try them on at?
They don’t, no