Five bags might seem like a lot – certainly compared to shirts or ties, as featured previously in this series.
But given you’ll need some kind of suitcase, plus a day bag, and probably a backpack for cycling, walking or sports, five isn’t that many. You probably already own more than that.
This article is therefore more about what options to go for in each of these categories, as well as which brands.
1. The modern work bag
Most people need some kind of bag to take to work, even if it’s unlikely to carry any papers – which was the contents that drove most historical designs. A laptop is a similar size, and there’ll likely be keys, headphones, maybe even a keep-cup and a water bottle.
The first thing I’d say is that, unfortunately, an attaché case usually looks too old-fashioned. If you wear a suit and tie to work, in certain professions, it can be OK. But most of the time, this beautiful piece of leather work and carpentry is just out of place.
A better smart bag is usually a briefcase – so one with a flap-over top. Dunhill has some lovely examples. But even that is too smart for most guys today, even a version with a bigger flap and two straps, as here from Frank Clegg.
Usually the best option for a modern office is a zip-top bag. Either a hard one like the Clegg zip-top briefcase (above), or a soft one like the Connolly Grip bag or Deck bag (the latter almost a briefcase/tote crossover).
The biggest danger with these soft, zip-top models is that they can be a little small, particularly when carried by a larger guy. Ignore the male impulse to want the case as light as possible, and make sure you get a decent size.
Oh, and another way to avoid that is to have a model in a much rougher, more obviously practical material, like a tin-cloth Filson. I have an old, patched model (shown bottom) which is fantastic, and a good partner to workwear as well as more casual tailoring.
2. The smart tote bag
I don’t use a work bag like that much, despite owning a Sac a Depeches from Hermes. It’s just too smart.
Instead, my default every day is a leather or suede tote bag. This is more casual, and for me goes as well with a suit as with jeans. It’s the most versatile option on this list.
There are still a few guys that see a tote as feminine, but given how ubiquitous they are these days, I find that strange. Particularly something in as rugged a leather as the bullskin nubuck of of the PS x Frank Clegg collaboration we did (above).
The biggest downside of a tote is its lack of structure, which means it’s not great for papers, and even a computer if it’s particularly soft. But I’m fine carrying my laptop in the bullskin one – I just put it in a little canvas cover to protect it. And there are more structured totes, like the Commuter Tote or Market Tote offered by The Armoury.
3. The weekender
This might be the category of bag I love most, with my favourite being the Dunhill doctor’s-bag style above. It’s probably because it’s the biggest expanse of nice leather you get to have and to hold.
But it’s also the one I use least. I think because when I travel, it’s rarely by car, so weight is more of a consideration. And because when I’m carrying a large volume of stuff – eg for a shoot – my larger tote is more convenient.
Still, everyone is likely to have one weekender or duffel bag, and they are lovely. I’d recommend the Bennett Winch ones in canvas or leather, and for something very modern looking, the Troubadour weekender.
4. The suitcase
Everyone has a suitcase or two. The issue, at least if you have a family like me, is being able to afford good ones when you need a minimum of three to go on a family holiday.
Fortunately, I was given one by Globe-Trotter years ago, and got a Rimowa one (above) a couple of years later on sale. And that was before Rimowa was taken over by LVMH and became much more expensive.
My orange Globe-Trotter aged really nicely, getting scuffed and worn, and even acquiring the odd travel sticker. But in the end it just proved too impractical. It came undone occasionally, and was too hard to roll along. (Sorry Super Hans – I need the earth to carry my luggage for me.)
The Rimowa is so much better. It’s more practical inside, stronger, has never had any functional problems, and rolls like a dream. I never notice it, and when you’re hot, late, jet-lagged and perhaps hungover, that’s what you need.
Given how expensive Rimowa has become, I’m not sure what I’d buy today though.
5. The backpack
A backpack should not be worn over a suit, or indeed over any knitwear that’s remotely delicate. In time it will destroy both of them.
But I still have a backpack, which I wear for commuting by bike, and there’s a family one I use when doing practical things like camping, or going to build dens in the local woods.
The commuting one is leather from Bennett Winch (above), and I’d certainly recommend it. The tumbled leather has a great texture, but it’s not that heavy (I’ve tried their canvas ones as well).
For a more rugged one, I’d probably look to Filson or a multicoloured piece of fun like those from Epperson Mountaineering (below).
The next five
As you might suspect, I have more than five types of bag, let alone individual bags. Or at least have tried many over the years. Next therefore, are the five I’d get after the ones above.
6. The canvas tote
These are great because they are so light and fold up, so you can take them travelling inside a suitcase for example.
They’re also a nice way to accessorise, and add colour, much like an umbrella. Such as the yellow Trunk one of mine above. My favourites are from Ichizawa Hanpu, stocked by Trunk in the UK.
7. The folio
Similar function to the modern work bag, for someone carrying less stuff. As I do this often, I have a couple I love, my favourites being a vintage piece shown here, and the envelope ones I designed with Equus a few years ago (above).
Still, this is quite limiting as regards size, and so probably belongs in the second five, not the first.
8. The suit carrier
Unsurprisingly, my favourite here is the SC Holdall I designed with Bennett Winch (above), and which features in the new James Bond film. You can even see it in the trailer, as Bond is given a new tux in a bar.
But this also belongs in the second five, as I find when I travel I tend to either wear my jacket, or fold it up inside a large suitcase if I have one with me. See video here on how to do that.
9. The casual briefcase
This is the category for that Filson briefcase mentioned earlier. I do think there’s a case for having this as well as a smart one, if you find you like this style of bag a lot more than a tote, for example.
If you prefer totes, I’d say have a couple in different styles – eg a smart one and a more casual version, like a Chamula blanket tote (below) or a Porter Yoshida helmet bag.
10. The messenger bag
I don’t own a messenger bag – I think the last time I did so was at school. But I’m including it here as it is another popular category, and I wanted to say that – for me, personally – it always feels a little teenagery.
Certainly, I don’t think it’s a good option for guys commuting to work. Because it doesn’t look grown up, and because it’s killing the shoulder of that jacket it’s being worn over. Even a nice shirt will be ground down after a while.
There are many other good brands I’d recommend based on my experience. They include:
- Chester Mox for great hand-sewn, Hermes-feeling leather
- Swaine Adeney for British-style bridle leather
- Ortus (above) for the highest-level of make you’ll find anywhere. Just superb
- Serge Amoruso (below) for bespoke commissions, and a quirky French style
- J Panther for some original designs in canvas, not unlike Filson
- Chapman bags for a similar fishing-bag aesthetic, also good for photographers
- Acate Borsa for a Japanese take on Hermes-like pebbled leather designs
We’ve had some great content over the years on bags. I’d particularly recommend:
- How to buy a quality bag
- How to pack for travel
- How leather is tanned
- Ten bags over ten years
- Mont Blanc factory visit
All photos are taken from previous PS articles. Most are linked to in the text. If you are unsure about any, please let me know in the comments and I’ll specify. Cheers.
For backpacks, an army style backpack in my opinion looks smarter than your “fun” example. Picked one up on eBay about a decade ago. Commute almost daily with it. Lately couple years on a motorcycle. Occasionally have loaded it up to about 30kg (don’t ask), by now bottom is borderline worn out, otherwise still going strong. Cant decide if it’s worth paying for repair more than I paid for a bag.
As my second “all purpose bag” I have about 5 years old Nike shoulderbag. I was considering nice canvas bag, but Nike is very light, and even if I spill something in it, I can just chuck it in a washing machine. I shudder to imagine spending 1000£ on a leather/leather trimmed bag and have “Tupperware leak” accident.
For my third bag for couple years ive been looking at your folio. But since it’s “want” and not “need”, always something else comes up.
Thanks Martins, nice shout on vintage Army stuff. My example is certainly less smart, though I guess that’s not really the aesthetic with it.
I can see your point on a Nike shoulder bag being washable, but so are much nicer nylon totes that won’t affect the shoulders of your jackets, or indeed nice canvas totes – they too can be machine washed.
I also think, if you’ll forgive me, that if you’re careful then such accidents are unlikely, and most natural materials can be cleaned. I’d look to upgrade that daily bag before looking at something so unusual as the folio we did.
regards tote bag.. if it’s anything like your yellow one on pictures.. that just doesn’t do it for me. I like your bullskin tote, but I would need to justify using it enough to spend money on it.. and so far “I don’t care if I get my Nike dirty” wins.
next year when I I finally work my shopping list up to some nice jackets, I’ll consider it.
re your folio. the only thing I do miss is “something” to put just my phone, keys and wallet in when I do dress up to go somewhere nice. I tried bridge coat pockets in winter but somehow didn’t feel right. your folio seems to fit the bill best.
No, that yellow tote bag is a canvas one – see inclusion in the ‘other five’ list at the bottom.
I meant a leather or suede (or nubuck) tote like our one and the ones linked to in that section.
Yes, unfortunately that’s one major advantage of a tailored jacket. If the folio works for you, that’s great. It’s just a bit unusual for some.
If you commute to work, the kind of bag should really depend on the commute: mine includes a 5’ bike ride to the railway station, so it has to be either a backpack or a messenger bag.
Here in Milan, though, almost every man and most women commute to work with a backpack, and I feel the suffering of those jackets while I look at people in front of me on escalators. Since the only messenger’s bag I’ve ever seen used by students were in college, it carries no young pupil association, and so I found my pleasure in a nice leather one.
I’ve almost never seen any man carrying a tote bag — actually in Italy it is still common to make stupid jokes if you meet a friend holding his wife’s tote — but they make so much sense that canvas bags are becoming my free time bag of choice.
Never thought I would see the day peep show was referenced on a PS post!
It was an earlier post you made on Filson that lead me to purchase their dryden briefcase, my first bag as I started my apprenticeship and this thing is bulletproof.
Fantastic, glad to hear it.
What is the difference between a briefcase with a flap and strap versus a satchel? As far as I was aware, messenger bags are essentially fabric satchels – is the only thing that makes the strap on the leather briefcases okay for shirts the fact it is leather?
Well, a messenger bag tends to be flatter and squarer, with a much bigger flap that covers most of the outside. A briefcase is deeper and usually smaller.
On the strap, no I wouldn’t recommend using a long strap on a briefcase either, at least no intensively or consistently
This is a more general thought. I’m constantly surprised at your ability to provide practical and useful content on a regular basis. Suit reviews aside (though always a treat), I must admit that about a year ago I thought there will be just more of the same on PS. This piece, and the Massimo Dutti one last week, are extremely useful (as well as well written and fun) in an unexpected manner. Kudos, Simon. No small feat this.
Thank you very much, that’s lovely to hear.
If you like more on these lines, I’d suggest a couple of series we’ve been doing for a few years – the Wardrobe Building one that today’s article is part of, and the Guide to Quality one. Both in the top menu (on desktop)
Thank you. I know them both well and I’ve used them often. I always think you’ve covered everything there already, and that any additional article would be too niche. I’m glad to be proven wrong every time.
Thank you. I’d hope it’s from my experience as an editor as well as a writer: you have to plan out an interesting calendar of coverage, covering your main bases but also always keeping people a little on their toes
Have you ever written in depth about sunglasses,Simon? I think that would be of interest(not forgetting you have Southern Hemisphere readers) even though autumn is upon us.
Not in depth, no. There’s a fair bit in the various ones I’ve reviewed (just search ‘sunglasses’) but not that much otherwise.
Perhaps a ‘How to buy quality’ piece on them would be good?
Yes, certainly. I have no idea what to look for
My everyday bag is a Billingham Hadley Pro-I usually have a pair of cameras and lenses, but it also has space for a laptop and documents. Looks.very smart.
Hello. Would you say that for casual travelling, the weekender would be more useful than a suit holder ? I am considering buying a new carryon and I find myself hesitating between the 2 options.
Well, it’s going to depend a lot on how often you carry a suit or jacket with you.
How often is that?
Until a few months ago I would have answered “nearly never when travelling” but I now find myself having to keep one suit with me more often. I’m hesitating between the suit holder and just carefully folding it up in a weekender or suitcase.
Ah, I see. Well I wouldn’t recommend doing so inside a Weekender, but it will often be OK in a suitcase.
If a suitcase isn’t an option, then it might have to be a suit bag.
Or, like the Bennett Winch one I helped design (linked to above) both of them in one.
Nicholas, look into Travelpro platinum line. I use their trifold garment bag, which looks more like a large briefcase, for weekend and short trips in Europe to carry a suit and couple of shirts and laptop etc. Their carry-on versions have a built-in suite carrier that folds separately. I have used these two together to go to Australia and New Zealand on one-week trips with three suites and all other stuff, just as two carry-on items.
Nice note, Simon. I too have a Filson, albeit a the rugged twill tote with zip top that I’ve used for more than a decade esp. for int’l travel. It’s a bit lighter than the briefcase and offers much of the same functionality. Like your example, it does get dirty but I don’t think it detracts from the bag’s look. I use it both for work and personal trips and love it as a carry on. It’s not flash but still a high quality piece of kit that doesn’t look out of place when meeting clients.
That said, Filson’s rugged twill (vs. tin cloth) can destroy a wool suit or more fragile fabric. I often carry it over my shoulder due to the weight of the packed tote and length of the straps. The friction from walking through an airport terminal or city streets has damaged more than one suit jacket.
I appreciate many guys may dislike the look and feel of a messenger bag, especially with formal or even semi formal clothes. I find it so much more convenient though than carrying a bag by hand on public transport. Plus I normally need my hands free for holding onto children/pushing a buggy!
I, sadly, seldom wear tailoring these days but I do note that the strap has really worn some of my polos and sweaters over summer so that is another downside.
I hope you don’t mind me saying Tommy, but if you’re not holding children or pushing a buggy, do you really need that extra convenience of having one more hand free?
I know it’s always going to be easier if you do, but it’s not that much of a sacrifice in order to have a bag that looks better and which doesn’t damage your clothes.
This always seems to come up, and I’m always surprised. I don’t understand why people might be prepared to save up money for a good product, invest time in understanding the right one, and take time to care for it – but won’t give up a little bit of inconvenience in use.
If practicality were always the overriding factor, we’d be walking around in Gore-Tex body suits with chips in our palms instead of phones.
Sorry for the rant, and I’m not saying this applies to you Tommy. But as I said, it surprises me that’s it’s often the overriding factor for guys when it comes to bags.
It’s a fair point! I suppose my reasoning such as it is, has been to balance practicality with style. If I’m dressed casually which I am more often than not, the messenger bag sits comfortably with the look. Also, I am with my kids more often than not (although that won’t always be the case I’m sure as they get older)
If I’m wearing a casual jacket, the wear caused by the strap is fairly negligible though it hadn’t occurred to me how much damaged it would do when worn directly over cotton or wool knitwear.
In summary, I think you’re quite right that I need some sort of smart, hand-held bag for occasions when I am more formally dressed (especially as I’m considering having a topcoat made to replace my shabby old coat*) This could also double up to protect my knits in the warmer months! I’ll go back to the top of the article and read up! Anything to stave off the Gore-Tex dystopia (Gore-topia?)
That said, I think there’ll always be a place in my collection for a satchel-type shoulder bag (and for my mini-messenger – to all intents and purposes a handbag – to save stuffing the pockets of my jackets with wallet, keys etc)
I think a lot of it comes down to lifestyle and the degree of formality in dress that goes with it.
*A cheap “stop gap” coat which became shabby in part due to stuffing the pockets, again pointing to a lack of a decent bag!
Thanks for taking it in the right spirit Tommy!
Yes I agree, that balance with lifestyle is the key
i really really cherish having both hands free. I dont know why, but it really bothers me when i need to use my hands and its not free that very instant. For example to use a phone both handed…or coffee in one hand phone in the other…or to press the buttons on a train…or to reach for my wallet to pay…touch in touch out commuting…little things like that. I used to wear a smart backpack over tailoring (always over a mac/coat, never over delicate blazers). but now i carry a smart Trunk canvas tote (inspired by you, thanks)…and i’ve realised more often than not, i subconsciously end up lugging that over my shoulder anyway!
If holding a bag means people walk along the street using their phone at the same time less, then I think that’s a good thing!
Seriously, though. Take a moment. Very few people walking along using their phone are actually in any hurry
As if on cue, the same day I posted this, I found myself taking my weekend bag, itself too sporty for the occasion tbh, to Galvin La Chapelle so I didn’t risk damaging another shirt with a shoulder strap. (It was a warm evening so I wasn’t wearing a jacket).
I’m heavily leaning towards a Filson briefcase or field bag so I’ve the option of carry handles or a shoulder strap (also I’ll be wearing casual clothes nearly all the time)
Sounds good Tommy
I’ve used a Rimowa cabin trolley as carry-on baggage together with a laptop bag on top for 15 years of weekly travel, usually flights and train . Over time, every single component except the aluminum case has been replaced at least once, the handle more than 3 times. It looks battered and bruised and all the better for it. Rimowa is expensive, but for someone who travels a lot, IMHO the cost per wear is worth it. For those looking for a hard wearing work bag I also recommend Tumi, the design has improved a lot and they are virtually indestructible.
I’ve found no need for a weekender bag given the inner part of the PS Holdall gives me something similar. And I generally opt for a tote anyway.
The PS Holdall is my go-to for a 1-2 day trip. Can wear one suit, pack the other, and have a way to take shoes and everything else as well. Much more useful than a garment bag.
One other bag I’d include on the second five is a small but masculine clutch-like bag for when you have only keys, phones, sunglasses to carry. E.g. your old Dunhill box. I have a black one form Montblanc that I like. I just wish I could find a brown one as well.
Pleased you find the SC Holdall so useful.
Yes, I like those small clutches, but they’re too unusual for most people and most of the time
Clutch bag? I get the concept of having something to carry eye glasses, keys, wallets and phones, which could be carried easily on your person but shouldn’t. But does this refer to something like a smaller folio (sized down from the A4 paper note pads)?
In a leather shop in Florence, I found a beautiful brown agenda note pad case with enough room for a phone, wallet, lots of keys (Italian buildings still use these huge 18th century style keys like to open a dungeon door – a few of those to carry will drive you mad) and eye glass case. It could fit other things that get accumulated through the day, like A4 papers folded in half and a rolled up tie (those knit ties are so practical for this). Maybe an iPad tablet, but see no need for those. It’s smart enough to be worn with suits, I think, and with a handle that pulls out to wrap around the wrist, you can achieve some two handed freedom. Not unlike the beautiful antique folio you describe in another post a few years back, just a bit smaller but thicker – like carrying a book. The zip can be frustrating sometimes but nothing is perfect. It is super convenient if you have to fly for the day and back since going through airports has become physical torture…
If this is what’s meant for clutch bag, I find this kind of thing extremely practical for daily use. Do you have link to your clutch bag? Can’t seem to find it. I’m not sure I know what you mean by “too unusual for most people.”
I see people carrying around too much hardware, with chargers, laptops and other stuff. Weird how technology was supposed to reduce that but so many of us are walking computer stores …
The pieces referenced, CG, are this old Dunhill piece of mine, which is strictly called a pochette, and comes with a strap that’s meant to go around your wrist.
And this envelope folio I designed with Equus leather in the UK, which is rather slimmer.
But yes, I find they are too unusual for most people, or feminine.
Thank you, Simon. Yes, it is lovely, but I see what you mean. I think, however, there are specific details which make that dunhill clutch appear more effeminate (i.e. the size, large flap with bright buckle, the edge folds, and the color – I love it too for shoes but they are barely used).
I feel if it had less pop and looked more like an agenda in dark brown or black… the ladies hand purse comparison wouldn’t necessarily come to mind. After all, men’s and women’s accessories are quite similar and it’s the details that make the difference. I’ll give you the tote bag in London as not necessarily looking like a ladies handbag, but – and I could be way off here – in Rome, it looks more like you’re on some posh shopping excursion on via dei condotti while your wife is in the max Mara store… I mean the photo of you with it looks quite good, so I’m rethinking this one. The Lefft-Clegg tote you posted in 2011 looks nice, as well some version dunhill doctors bag…still a man should strive to carry as least as possible with him at all times ( or at least that someone else carries it for you, haha). Mark Cho at the Armoury posted a video on a particular bag he liked. What intrigued me was how he described all the things he often carried and the logic behind. Why do I get so fascinated by this stuff? I think the best carry bags are used by older Italian lawyers: the portaborse (they’re practically free, carry everything and you can get new ones as often as you want).
Great ! Thanks! Another rabbit hole to go down! And I was gonna skip this article….
Ha – I know what you mean about Rimowa; I bough a super-large hold suitcase for about £500 in 2016 and the next time I looked they were over double that. Good case but…
Interestingly I wanted a travel bag to carry laptop, camera, guidebooks, notebooks etc and that would fit under an airline seat etc. Being unable to find anything that worked, had one made. After months of work, we ended up with – give or take – the dimensions and format of a classic flight bag!!
Good read, Simon.
I’m glad to see Chapman Bags getting a nod. Being a photographer I’m particularly fond of this style of bag having used Billingham bags for some years.
Other bags similar in style and of similar quality that are well worth a mention are Brady and Croots. They all seem to fly under the radar but are all superb and are excellent value for money given how well they’re made.
I own a few Chapman bags and they are really lovely – all hand made from heavy canvas, leather and brass fittings.
Cheers,
Matty
Thanks for the additional recommendations Matty
@Matty not sure if you are monitoring this thread still, but wondering if you own any of the Croots bags? I was searching this morning for reviews of their laptop or travellers bag. Seems a beautiful thing walking past William Evans in London but haven’t been in; would be keen to hear opinions from someone who may have owned some of their products
I don’t know if I am the only one in this situation but as a shortish guy (5″6) my experience with tote bags hasn’t been great. They tend to drag and bump on things like stairs when going up and down. You have to carry it arm bent most of the time which is tiring especially when heavy so I ended up carrying it on the shoulder almost exclusively, and for that purpose I’d much prefer a messenger bag to be honest.
Thanks Julien, I hadn’t thought of issues there for a shorter guy. Interested to know if any other readers have this problem and what they do
I quite agree, and I’m 6’2”! I don’t understand the attraction of the tote. Simon’s brown suede one does look nice but the long handle of a tote bag does make impractical to carry around and liable to touch the floor/ground, which for a hygiene freak like me is a no no! The handle is also not really long enough to put over the shoulder comfortably. Totes do look rather feminine to me as well, although I could get over that if I thought it was practical.
I’ve had a Dunhill messenger for probably 14 years that has served me very well. Back then they made attractive combination leather/canvas ones that were light weight and weren’t ludicrously over priced. I don’t usually use it for business use these days but it’s great for travel and when out and about at the weekend if I need to carry things that won’t fit in my pockets, sometimes when riding a Boris bike. I avoid using it with tailoring for obvious reasons but occasional use won’t damage your jacket, especially with sturdier cloths. Over a shirt is absolutely no problem. Knitwear can be more dangerous.
I get the point about looking teenagery, but my one looks far classier than anything a teenager would use!
Messengers (at least well made ones) are infinitely more stylish than rucksacks.
Any thoughts about those little canvas covers/sleeves to protect your computer? I’ve been taking a look for a while to Hardgraft which seems a quality product but haven’t try it yet. Any recomendation?
I’m afraid not – I have an old fabric slip case I use. I think it might have originally been for a shirt.
It’s just there to separate the computer from anything that might scratch it really, rather than protect against bumps
Did I read correctly that the SC Hold all is featured in the latest Bond film? What fun!
For family travel we use a Briggs and Riley rolling suitcase, which is more of a huge rolling duffle bag. It works well for our travel which rarely involves packing a suit or sport coat.
My challenge for a daily commuting bag is finding one that is large enough to hold my sizable lunch without being to bulky or uncomfortable to carry. I think I need to look at a good quality tote.
It is indeed. Keep an eye out.
I think a good canvas tote would be a good shout there, on the lunch front. Particularly as it means it can be folded up inside something else once the lunch has all been eaten. (Presuming you’re not using any Tupperware etc)
I keep my lunch in a small spill proof (more like spill containing) bag so something nicer than canvas might be in order. The tote would also need to hold my laptop, probably in a sleeve as you mention.
B&R bags are every bit as good as Tumi in my experience. I have a rolling carry on bag and a rolling suiter (used as hold luggage on longer trips).
I used to make on average two trips by air every week, over a period of twenty five years. Both bags still look pretty much as new.
The B&R advantage over Tumi is the price.
I find the Frank Clegg commuter briefcase has plenty of space for my lunch bag, plus a water bottle.
I second the congratulations on making it into the Bond movie! Menswear reality meets menswear fantasy – worlds collide!
That Rob Roy/Buffalo check tote in the first image might be my favorite of all the ones pictured, although it’s much too casual for me, I’m afraid.
I’m in the market for a smart looking suitcase for both business and family travel, but I can’t bring myself to pay Rimowa’s prices. The trouble is that there just do not seem to be a lot of worthy alternatives.
Great article. Barring suitcases for travel, 9/10 I’m grabbing a tote bag, and augment with a duffel as needed. Especially with the duffel, you need to avoid the temptation to go big, as the weight of a packed bag becomes an issue. The Clegg zippered suitcases are beautiful, and I’d love to get one but just don’t think I’d use it.
Hi Simon,
I’m afraid that I’m one of those “guys who see the tote as feminine”. And, in my experience, we number more than “a few”. I suspect that the tote is more widely accepted as a male accessory in London and other large cities and possibly by a slightly younger generation. For those of us who live elsewhere, and have rather more decades behind us than we care to contemplate, it’s a little different. However, I’ve acquired several lightweight canvas totes (including one from Trunk) and I’m converted to their practicality. Consequently, I’ve been looking for a more robust and more masculine version. I’ve homed in on the Bennett Winch tote or the Belstaff Touring tote, both of which seem to fit the bill and are roughly similar in price, for both leather and canvas versions. I’ve settled on buying one or other of them (or one in canvas and the other in leather, if I’m feeling flush, have a sudden rush of blood to the head or find myself in one of those thankfully rare moments when late night, online shopping, seems like a good idea, after a generous glass of good wine!). Do you have any experience of either bag?
Richard
I have used the Bennett Winch one, and it is really nice. I’d say probably better value than the Belstaff too
I really don’t understand guys carrying Tote bags; just looks plain wrong to me. Maybe it’s popular in the south of England; I rarely see a chap in the north rocking one. I understand your argument about rugged materials, but even so, I still don’t think that you avoid the ‘guy carrying a big handbag’ ascetic.
Thanks Graham. Out of interest, do you think there’s any alternative with smarter clothing?
Personally, I’m inclined to agree with Graham. I think a Weekender like the black leather version from Bennett Winch could be a possible alternative with smarter clothing.
PS x Frank Clegg collaboration tote bag in brown arrived today. William Morris would approve – beautiful and practical. Bravo Simon and Frank!
Fantastic, thanks for letting me know TOS
The first PS x Clegg tote is now my go to work every day bag and it goes with everything from a business suit to the pandemic-era casual everyone appears to have adopted in the higher ed sector. I will (as I have before) put in a pitch for the J Panther Aviator, which holds keys, wallet, a notebook, business cards, a spare pair of glasses and a small bottle of water. It’s a little bit casual for truly formal business settings, but works with everything else. Some men might say it looks too much like a purse (and I’ve had women I don’t know stop and say “I’ve been looking for a bag like that all my life”), but it does almost everything I need for a casual day of shopping or a light hike in the outdoors. And it has aged beautifully. Luggage is an eternal problem, especially if you don’t like hardshell cases, which I don’t. I don’t think they have much of a footprint outside the US, but Briggs and Riley are just one step above the disposable rubbish you find at most high street shops and discounters, the lifetime warranty is real (I had a leather handle come unstitched, with no loss of function, and it was replaced with no questions), and I have beaten the hell out of it on all sorts of public transit, and never had a problem. Not the prettiest luggage in the world, but I remain surprised that it’s a category of product where going from entry level to just one stage up makes a huge quality difference, unlike shoes, where you really do need to spend a lot more than entry level to get something that will last any time at all.
Hi Simon — I have been eyeing several bags from Metier London. They are beautiful and have well-considered details, but seem overpriced vs the competition. Do you have any experience with this brand?
I don’t I’m afraid, sorry.
If you are ever trying to assess the quality of a bag, see the article on that linked to at the bottom of this article
What about my Next bag with the good handles (credit Peter Kay)
I hope you’ll take this criticism in the spirit that it is intended, which is more discussion provoking than it is meant to be insulting, although perhaps my motivations for writing it may be somewhat confused.
Firstly though, I have gleaned a vast amount of value in visiting PS. I’ll put it this way, I now get daily compliments on my clothing whereas I used to rarely receive them at all. I’m balding rather young (I’m 27) and now rather than inspecting my retreating hairline before leaving the house, I briefly nod at what I’m wearing thinking, “by god, you’ve done it again.” So the inspiration that I’ve found in Permanent Style is having a rather palpable pay off in my physical self esteem and in the way I am received by those I know. I also always find your think pieces very engaging and contemplative and I admire the way you deconstruct what can often be entirely subconscious. I spent far too long wearing tan boots with black trousers and never being sure why my clothes looked dumb. Now I know! However, every now and then the thought that I’m stood wearing a £150 shirt and a £495 chore jacket whist on a tube train and realising that which is adorning my upper body is more than most people’s monthly rent, well, it does rather send my liberal sensibilities into free-fall and makes me feel rather sick.
There have been an increasing number of days in which I click into PS and read a post that wills on a similar response. The men whose posts I read – and the man whose blog this is – are all evidently some of the more erudite, eloquent and contemplative sorts you would be likely to meet in London. But I can’t help but find this almost fetishised approach to attire and accessory – concealed behind the veneer of aestheticism and a passion for it – to be a necessary front for what is essentially a senseless orgy of consumerism.
It may not be that I stop reading Permanent Style, but I think checking in daily as I might the news has done damage to both my bank balance and my sense of social responsibility.
Thank you Jackson, I appreciate the comment, they’re always very helpful.
It’s obviously a big area, but one point that I think is worth making again, is that the volume of clothes you buy is the main thing that is irresponsible or unsustainable. If you buy only a small number of clothes, but buy quality and look after them well, chances are you are being more responsible – because the materials will be less damaging, the labour practices better, production more local and so on.
Compare that to the volumes of cheap clothing sold through the likes of Boohoo, Shein etc, for context. The volume there is the biggest issue today, as well as the fact they contain so much plastic.
I think often the mistake people make when reading the blog, is thinking that someone is saying they have to buy all of it. You don’t have to buy anything more than a very small amount, and only when you need it. The posts are for a large number of people that will only buy occasionally, rather than a small number that will buy a lot.
This discussion reminds me of a great quote from the late Sir Terry Pratchett:
“But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that’d still be keeping his feet dry in ten years’ time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet. This was the Captain Samuel Vimes ‘Boots’ theory of socioeconomic unfairness.”
The way I read it, Simon is quite reasonably proposing that buying the single $50 pair of boots which will last for years is, if one can afford it, the better and more environmentally responsible choice; while Jackson is expressing his discomfort that many – if not most – people cannot afford the $50 boots and are therefore have no option other than buying lots of pairs of cheap boots.
Can’t remember who said it, but a more brutal formulation is: “being poor is expensive”.
Lovely quote Paul, I hadn’t heard that.
I’ve been trying to do this for a while, but I really want to find some information on historic spending habits. I know my grandfather’s generation would spend a huge amount of money (proportionately) on a suit, but I’ve never found good statistics on it.
It was the same for my dad’s hobby of photography. He bought an Olympus OM1 ,in the 70s, and it equated to three months salary. Mother had words.
Not entirely sure how I’ve ended up deep into this chain, but if you still being followed I had, what I hope, is an interesting anecdote. Not widely known that (at least the theory goes) that the term “the full monty” comes from Montague Burtons tailors where the full monty was a 3-piece suit, with extra trousers; distressingly the company is now Burtons in the UK which moved from tailoring to cheap polycotton.
The link to the grandparents generation was being told that my grandfather fought 10-fights in a boxing tournament where the first prize was a full monty (plus accessories) which he wore with pride on Sundays. It’s not a statistic about money, but does show the historic importance of quality clothing and the care one would take over them.
P.S.
Terry Pratchett quote is from, I think, Guard, Guard! or potentially Men at Arms from the Discworld series
Wonderful, thank you. Great story and illustration on the value placed on clothes
I’m sorry but that is a complete miss-characterisation. It may be uncomfortable to admit but this blog will without a doubt encourage and inspire overconsumption. I’ve felt if from reading weekly posts about new acquisitions and thinking ‘maybe i need one of those’. All the advertising included on the site is for material goods retail and you regularly include roundups of the seasons new and best purchases. Lets be realistic here, this site is for people, and indeed buy a person, who is passionate about clothes and keen to consume them. I find it disingenuous to imply its anything else.
I’m sorry you feel that way James.
I’m sure it does encourage overconsumption, absolutely. But that’s not my aim, and I think I do many things to counteract it.
I talk constantly about buying less, about how great things age, and about how to care and repair. I berate people that don’t look after their clothes well, and God forbid anyone call something disposable.
You’d be hard pressed to find a site about clothes that does that more, surely?
Also, I’d genuinely be interested to know, what do you think the alternative is. If you wanted to create a site to help people find the best quality clothing, and write often because you cover a lot of areas, how would you encourage them to buy only a very small number of those featured?
None of that is disingenuous either, and I hope it comes across that way. I’d be interested to know what you and others think.
What is disingenuous is the statement ‘I think often the mistake people make when reading the blog, is thinking that someone is saying they have to buy all of it’. By saying this you are not only insulting the intelligence of your readership but somehow shifting blame to them as individuals without acknowledging the impact and influence of the site and its content. I find this sort of denial problematic and disingenuous.
I don’t believe that there is a way to have a site like this without
encouraging overconsumption unless the primary aim of the site was to do the opposite. Admittedly this would be a less interesting site and would probably not be at all successful. It certainly wouldn’t generate the interest that PS does. I think it should be clear though that probably, on balance, a site like this will inspire more consumption than it tempers through discussions on longevity and sustainability. There’s a reason clothing brands will pay for advertising on the site and that’s because its readers are likely to spend money with them buying things like ‘invisible socks’.
Perhaps it would be an idea to provide some advertising space to a relevant charity or social enterprise or some form of sustainable clothing initiative. The top spot at the moment is Drakes who are very much a fashion brand, releasing several collections each season and seemingly encouraging and indeed requiring people to keep purchasing seasonal, trend based fashion items. This is then backed up with flash sales with leftover stock is sold off on the cheap.
I think if PS was truly committed to discouraging overconsumption a brand such as this would not hold the top spot. Its another unfortunate demonstration of the problems with the capitalist mentality in that a brand [in this case PS] can espouse a message of sustainability whilst on the other hand keenly promoting the opposite through advertising as this is what generates the money. Money trumps morals every time.
I enjoy the site and visit regularly but I do find this a bit head in the sand and I resent being told that, as a reader, i am the one making a mistake and not PS.
Thanks James.
These are good points, but I’m not sure you’ve really addressed the points I made in my comment above. I would honestly like to know your opinions on them.
As you say, a site that only wrote about the opposite would not be read by anyone. So it wouldn’t do any good.
And we have always regularly and frequently written about buying less, buying better, repairing, caring, the appeal of vintage, of old clothes and how they last. More than any other site. Those ‘Top 10’ pieces you highlight are hugely outweighed by pieces on darning, altering trousers, caring for suede, depilling sweaters, altering jeans and so on. These are all read, and I know from the many conversations I’ve had with readers, that they make a real difference.
Given the number of shops, sites and magazines that lead with headlines like ‘What’s hot now’ and ‘How to do this season’s looks’ it does rather feel like you’re aiming a little in the wrong direction.
The point about making advertising available to a charity is a good one, though. I’ll look at that. We often have available spaces on things like the newsletter, or for a month at the top of the site. I could easily offer those to a list of charities in this area.
Hi Simon,
I don’t doubt your intentions or dispute that PS may be more conscious on these issues than other sites but saying I’m aiming in the wrong direction sounds like ‘whataboutism’. Just because other sites may be worse doesn’t mean that this one cant and shouldn’t be critiqued.
I feel i have addressed your previous points although on re-reading perhaps you are referring to your question ‘how would you encourage them to buy only a very small number of those [items] featured?‘
Its a difficult question and I’m not sure if i have the answer or indeed if what you are asking is even possible. I don’t feel like this question necessarily needs to be answered for the points raised to be consider, valid or true. It may be that you must accept that this is just a consequence of running a site based around product review and promotion. I know that there is an argument for craft etc etc but at the end of the day these are all still consumable products.
I think that alongside trying to discourage overconsumption through the points you have raised in the previous comments perhaps some sort of charitably or environmental engagement/ activism might help off set this. Your latest article goes someway towards this but i feel perhaps a more proactive, interventional initative would be needed.
The PS reader survey conducted a little while ago highlighted the high levels of wealth amongst your readership. Indeed the average readers salary was serval times higher than the UK national average. Perhaps rather than or at least alongside encouraging and promoting spending on new products you could channel some column inches to encouraging your readers to engage with and donate to some sort of charitable and or enviromental initiative. Perhaps this may help to offset some of the less favourable impacts of the site. Perhaps a registered PS charity might be interesting?
With the significant influence you now wield it would be good to see it put to benevolent effect. Perhaps the next symposium could be on this subject and the next pop up could include some sort of charitable or environmental concession rather than just product promotion.
Food for thought anyway. Thanks for the stimulating debate.
Best wishes.
James.
Very good food for thought, thank you James. I particularly like the idea about the PS charity. I’ll have a think about the best way to do that.
Thank you for the debate too
Nothing material to add other than I find this to be an absolutely brilliant discussion and comments like these are one of the main reasons why I read PS. I think having PS leverage its influence in this way is an excellent idea. Thank you James and Simon!
I’d say it depends on you. if you buy that 500£ jacket every year, you have a problem. but somehow I’ve come to realise 2 things the more I read PS. for me it’s 2 layer wardrobe. 1 “I don’t care but I still look smarter than tracksuit and sneakers”. and 2. “stuff that I pay as much as I can, knowing it’s supposed to last me a decade or more and I’m willing to take care about it the way it’s supposed to be cared about”
and 2. you don’t have to copy Simon and wear 5000£ shoes, coats and 600£ trousers. often it’s realising “what” you loose by paying less and if you’re happy with it, and just looking at inspiration in here. (as an example I’d never thought I find myself wearing corduroy but somehow I lived couple years in dark olive and this year I ended up with a pair of cream, 2 pairs of dark olive, and a pair caramel and sand)..
reminds me a conversation I had with a friend couple years ago. that went along the lines “you’re crazy dropping 1000£ on a motorcycle jacket that properly keeps you dry and has a 5 year warranty, I’m ok buying 150£ leaky jacket every year.”
Nicely put Martins.
In a similar vein, a roadracing instructor once said “if you think you’ve got a $50 head, get a $50 helmet. Otherwise buy the best you can afford.”
Among all your bags, Simon, the one I like the most is the vintage folio, mottled and patina’d though it may be. It has great character, and is perfectly organized inside for the essential things one must carry. I have been searching for something similar. I do have some, but not with quite the same level of organization inside, or character outside.
Thank you Peter. As always, a compliment from someone else who appreciates these things makes me appreciate it all the more
There are so many bag manufacturers and brands out there these days, and so, it is easy to get a decent bag at a decent price. I use a Filson briefcase for the office as it is business casual. I even use it when I wear a suit. Some may not like that or prefer a smarter briefcase, but it works for me as I do not wear a suit that much these days. I also have a small duffle bag made in the USA by Frost River. It’s good for the gym or traveling overnight or so. The only bag I cannot say I would ever use is a tote as I find it too feminine. Just my opinion. As for a messenger bag, I would use one. Although I see mostly college students and progressives using them.
Simon, I bought a beautiful Tanner Krolle weekender many years ago before the latest designs. Don’t like the new versions with the company name clearly displayed. Looks like another designer brand in my opinion. The old versions had simple understated classic lines and I know it will last a lifetime as I take great care of it. I also have a beautiful Swaine Adeney attaché case which is made of wonderful tan bridal leather. Unfortunately it is mint condition, not used for what it was made for instead I use it to keep what I consider to be historically significant front pages from The NY Times…I enjoyed the article.
Thank you Thomas, and thank you for the reminder of how good Tanner Krolle used to be
For me, practical considerations win the day with a commuting backpack. I’ve been using a Henty Wingman Backpack for about five years and it has transformed my commute unbelievably. It is essentially a cylinder with a suit bag that wraps around it (hard to explain but look it up and you will see). I ride to and from work whatever the weather now as it as a waterproof cover, and take with me everything including suit, shirt, shoes, laptop, underclothes, personal effects, and lunch. The carrying capacity is pretty unbelievable and the profile is smaller than you would expect. An ironed shirt tends not to get creased (though end of trip facilities in Australia almost always have an iron anyway). Can’t recommend it enough for the serious cycle commuter or cyclist.
While I love the aesthetic of Filson bags I simply find them too heavy when full. I have managed to find my favourite bags in Charity shops. They are as follows
– Ex RN pussars Grip. Beige canvas hopdall with leather trim. Lightweight and rugged.
-Vintage GH Bass game/messenger bag made of a gorgeous bottle green suede.
-Vintage Leather Weekender. Bought for £30 then expertly repaired by saddler Mia Sable.
-Vintage Swedish military backpack.
Thanks Dan.
Any more you can say on the saddler? Readers often ask for good places for bag repairs
I believe this is Mia Sabel. She was based in London but has since moved to Scotland, I believe. She is a saddle maker but also makes beautiful bespoke watch straps of which I have two. If you have a high quality leather bag to repair she would no doubt do an expert job on it. The website is sabelsaddlery.co.uk
Thank you
Ah, posted my comment before I read this. Hope she still does repairs by post.
I can recommend her. She is north London based and has done work for one of Londons premier vintage luggage dealers. She also makes made to measure watch straps. A real craftswomen.
Are you aware of the Danish brand Mismo? I think offer nice bags in nearly all of the necessary categories and keep a good balance between contemporary and classic.
Rimowa is a disgrace. I also have an older carry-on that is objectively a good suitcase, but it was expensive a couple of years ago, and now prices are absolutely ridiculous (even worse for their unnecessary travel accessoires like – I am kidding you not – a 200 EUR nylon suitcase strap). In fact, LVMH’s vulgar marketing makes me actively dislike my older suitcase. Also, a couple of years ago, smoothly rolling spinners weren’t common. But my girlfriend has recently bought a 250 EUR Horizn Studios carry on, and the quality is really good. I wouldn’t really say the Rimowa is noticeably better in terms of function.
Would you know a good brand for bicycle bags? I occasionally see bags that are basically two separate compartments and can be folded/hung over the frame (so you have it between your legs while cycling). I always wondered why the design is not more popular given that backpacks and messenger bags aren’t good for clothes, and a tote dangling from the handlebar isn’t exactly optimal either.
I hadn’t heard of it Felix, no. Thank you.
On bicycle bags, having it hanging over the frame between your legs sounds like it would get in the way when you’re cycling?
Unless you mean panniers, which hang either side of the back wheel?
No, more like a really slim “double-portfolio”. Basically if it just fits a laptop computer and a writing pad its slim enough. Maybe I can find an example.
I would recommend the German brand Ortlieb. They are durable, well designed and reasonably priced; spare parts are also available. My pannier has been used almost daily for 10 years and is probably good for another 10 years.
I use a pannier for cycle commuting. I don’t like using a backpack on my bike because of the sweaty back it creates and the higher center of gravity it results in.
I purchased a backpack from Mismo whilst on a business trip to Hong Kong several years ago and still use it to this day. As Felix noted, it strikes a nice balance between contemporary and classic design – my backpack (which they no longer appear to make going by their website) is a lovely drab olive canvas with with brown leather and brass materials for straps/buckles. I use it far less now that I’m self-employed and work from home, but I did use it almost daily for a number of years when I was office-bound and it has fared extremely well in that time.
Yes, I really like their bags (also btw I am of course in no way associated with them other than being a happy customer). I have one of their “soft work” bags and a wash bag, and am very happy with those. In hindsight it’s a pity I only learned about the brand after buying two Filson duffle bags for sports and travel. Those are definitely okay, but the Mismo bags look much more sophisticated and urban. The price also still seems to be okay.
Peter and Ian: How do you use a pannier? Do you carry it around or do you leave it on the bike and put a nice bag in it that you takeout when arrived?
I’m sorry to disagree so harshly;
However, the tote bag seems to be an attempt to appear young and contrarian, subverting traditional masculine aesthetics, and it does not work.
The tote bag in however masculine a material, simply looks like a handbag a mother might carry around on a shopping trip with her children.
This might look somewhat acceptable in young and modern London but nobody is walking into clubland or the country with a tote bag.
I think that impression is changing, and has changed a lot. I know plenty of people who live and work in the country and use them.
It takes time, but it is a result of nothing more than associations.
I’ve used Samsonite suitcases for a long time – I find them durable, well designed and reasonably priced. Beyond that I find it difficult to justify more expensive luggage as all suitcases look equally worn after a few trips in an aircraft luggage hold. And who wants an airline to loose their high-end suitcase?
I have a Tusting Clipper bag which is great for business or casual!
In terms of style and quality I really like French brand Bleu de Chauffe for bags. They’re all handmade in France with vegetable tanned leather and generally strike a nice balance between ‘smart’ and ‘workwear’.
They have plenty of options in the work bag category; I have their ‘Business Folder’, which might be a bit too small for some people, but perfect if you’re not a particularly big guy and just carrying a 13″ laptop around. Their Hobo bag is my weekender/holdall, and I use their lightweight Basile backpack when I go walking.
https://www.bleu-de-chauffe.com/en/
Thanks for link. Nice bags. Enjoy hearing about such boutique gems via PS readers that I would otherwise never know about.
My first thought was what 5 bags! And then I counted in my mind the number I own. I counted 10. My favourite is a Tommy hilfiger bag I bought in Lisbon in 2005. Its a leather trim and plastic overnight bag which has and still is serving me well.
Hi Simon, many thanks for the article. Any views on Made by Nichols from London? The Instagram pictures look fantastic. Considering him as an option for a bespoke bag.
No, sorry Jan, haven’t seen anything in person
Thanks as always Simon. Your description of your different bags, and the virtues and vices thereof, provoked some thoughts about my (fairly uninteresting) journey through menswear.
In the early days of PS, when I was in my late-teens and early twenties, I would obsess over tie dimples and gorge heights. Over the years, I found that the emotional burden of looking after expensive and delicate things exceeded the joy I derived from owning them. I’m sure every reader can empathize with this. A misplaced foot by a clumsy passenger on the Tube can scuff one’s freshly polished Lobbs. A piece of gum left on the seat can ruin one’s Anderson & Sheppard trousers.
Now that I am in my 30s and and have children, my uniform is an old pair of straight-leg PBJ jeans, an ancient Runabout Goods tubular knit crewneck t-shirt, a 10 year old Filson tote bag and (shock horror) and ancient pair of brown Birkenstock Bostons. The jeans and the tote bag are wonderfully faded (and in the latter case, also chewed by one of my dogs when he was a puppy), the t-shirts are pleasingly frayed at the collar and the birkenstocks, which are on their third sole, have developed a deep patina. If I have to dress up, I wear a navy blue, single breasted Ring Jacket suit with a light-blue twill shirt, a navy cashmere Drakes tie and a pair of dark brown C&J Cavendish loafers that I bought in 2011 and are encrusted in about 50 layers of polish. With the exception of the suit and tie, these items of clothing can take abuse, generally look better with age, and can be thrown in the washing machine on the cotton cycle at 40 degrees. Because the suit is off-the-rack and my expectations about fit are minimal, I don’t obsess about imperfections in fit as I used to with my MTM suits (I could never afford bespoke and, with several children, certainly can’t now). Likewise, whilst I’ve always appreciated your understated style, I now look at the people you feature (such as Tony Sylvester and Ethan Wong) and can’t help but think that they look effete and faintly ridiculous.
To return to the subject of the piece (in a fairly roundabout way), whilst your LV case and Hermes bag are beautiful things, I can’t bring myself to covet them; they are simply too expensive and would become a source of anxiety. I know I would derive most pleasure from the simple, indestructible and comparatively inexpensive Filson tincloth briefcase – a perfect little thing.
I’ve always had my eye on a Ghurka suit carrier (“garment bag”), but wear/travel with suits less frequently than I used to… have you considered any of their stuff?
I have, yes, and used to have an old piece. But they were bought out a few years ago. I don’t know what the quality is like now
Speaking of bags, Simon, do you know what happened to Bown? Loved the attention to detail Judy put into her work. Is there a new project she is working on, I might not know of? Thank you!
I haven’t spoken to her for a few years, V, but the last time I did she was unfortunately having to stop the business because of some disagreements with another owner of the business. I did try to help her bring the bag back to market again, but it didn’t work out.
A shame, they were lovely bags.
A bit late to the party, I’ve been something of a fan of Seattle-based Tom Bihn when it comes to luggage. They have a particular aesthetic which won’t suit everyone, and target a slightly different market – the carry-on bag and everyday carry segments – with well-designed and extremely well-built soft-sided bags. Their Aeronaut 30 is a very well designed modified duffel-type design which at 30 litres could be classed as a weekender type bag; mine has done yeoman service for overnight work journeys… at least it used to, pre-COVID!
The aforementioned aesthetic may be more casual than suit-appropriate, and the target market is more die-hard one bag travellers than people wanting to carry suit jackets and the like, but their products cover a big range and are generally extremely functional within their niche. Build quality is very solid, too.
All of which doesn’t prevent me from having my eye on a Bennet Winch SC Holdall…
I have 3 bespoke leather bags – weekender, satchel and dopp kit – all made to my spec and which I treasure. The others such as the folio, a few garment carriers and 2 back packs are more utilitarian. The backpacks are used daily so I am thinking of a another bespoke project there.
Simon, a quick question about Attache Cases,
I work in a very conservative environment and industry, think double breasted suits twice a week, three piece suits the rest of the time (All Bespoke based on your recommendations, thank you for that). I was looking to get a traditional attache case (to be a mobile office), I was looking at Globe Trotter, LV etc, I do not know any artisan manufacturers, I am not sure that the dunhill or Clegg ones will be smart enough, can you help with any suggestions, it do not necessarily have to be a Attache Case, just business formal looking, not flashy, cost is not a concern.
Do you know any great manufacturers? what would be a suitable alternative?
A great maker would be Equus – have a look at their site
Thank you so much, Simon, I had never heard of Equus to be honest, I will be ordering one later in the day, please keep up the great articles they seam to be getting better and better all the time.
Dutch
Oh good, thank you.
Do mention to Charlie that I sent you.
Yes, I always do when getting something you have mentioned or recommended, its just a polite way for me to spread the success and influence of the site. I am just asking them about the colours at the moment, I have some cultural reasons for this, a quick question again if can?, I was looking at the Tundra, Green leathers, do you think they would look good or should I go for something more classic in brown or tan?
Thank you.
I think classic. You’re not going to want more than one, and you want it to go pleasingly with everything
Simon, once again thank you, I have had such a great conversation with Charlie and Dawn, they are so helpful taking me through the process, discussing everything so far, even mentioning things I would not have considered at all. if you do not mind I will comment on everything when I start receiving my goods. So far everything is excellent!
Please do, and I’m so pleased to hear that
Hey Simon,
I’ve seen a bit of coverage on Equus, Made by Nichols…
Have you heard of and ever considered trying out Peter Nitz?
I believe he used to work at Hermes but set up his own shop quite a while back.
I haven’t Ollie, I hadn’t heard of him. Thanks for the tip
Hi Simon,
I have long wondered about the Bennett Winch SC holdall you co designed… I appreciate the notion of avoiding creases, but does it run any risk of crushing lapels/canvas etc. that have been made bespoke? Thank you.
Not that I’ve found, no. Or certainly, no more than any other way of carrying it
Cheers, Simon. Fair comment, there is always a trade off with anyway your carry it.
Each bag is impressive but the way you dress Simon you make it come alive..peace
Just wanted to advocate for two of the bags mentioned in this list: the PS bullskin tote (brown), and the Ichizawa Hanpu tote from Trunk (olive). These are the only two bags i known, but serve me nicely for formal and casual occasions, respectively. The Ichizawa is not good value, but it is abundantly useful and i appreciate the modifications that Trunk made to the standard bag: longer handles and an additional internal zip pocket.
“You probably already own more than that. “
me: yes I’m in the right place with my kind of people
I’m finding that a folio is perfect for what I need to carry around these days. I never have paperwork, I don’t usually need to have a laptop, and I spend little enough time on public transport that I don’t really need a water bottle or coffee cup. I imagine it’s the same for many others. With that said, it would be different if I had one computer for home and the office, which is probably the way things are going.
Hi Simon,
I’m looking at getting a wheeled carry-on hard case from either rimowa or globetrotter. I love the look of the globetrotter, but it is about twice the price of the Rimowa. I read an old article on your globetrotter case, where you praised it and particularly the repair service. However, based on the article above, am I right in thinking you would now recommend rimowa of the two? Does this also provide a similar level of repair / aftercare? I ask as I intend for it to be a lifetime purchase.
Best,
John
Hi John,
Yes I would recommend Rimowa, largely because it’s so much more practical than Globe-Trotter, which in the end I got too frustrated with.
However, Rimowa has become much more expensive recently, and I can’t speak to their repair service
Thanks very much! From a quick Googling they seem happy to engage in repairs and have a repair network, which bodes well.
Oh good
This is disheartening, because as a former owner of Rimowa, I just ordered a set of Globe-Trotters (the elegance and history is tough to ignore). My wife says the Rimowa is more practical (locks you can latch despite stuffing the case, and full panel dividers), but for someone like me who just packs a single void, I wonder if I really need anything more? I know you had issues with your Globe-Trotter popping open, do you think the catches were not properly latched or was the case over-stuffed? Also, where did you find the leather luggage strap you used on your orange G-T?
Your Bennett Winch recommendation is a great one, my canvas BW Weekender has been one of the best purchases ever, and I use it often. It has more or less taken over for a beautiful leather Ghurka No.2, that I just don’t feel comfortable chancing in rain.
I think with the Globe-Trotter it was a case of the latches not being good enough I’m afraid. And the wheels were never that practical.
The strap was provided by them.
Nice to hear on the Bennett Winch recommendation
Hi Simon,
Other than going bespoke, do you know any companies providing high quality leather iPhone cases? I’ve been using Hardgraft for years (not sure if you’re familiar with them) but I was wondering if you’re aware of any others?
Thanks
No, sorry, I don’t use them
Having owned a Filson, I recently bought a Mismo canvas satchel. Liking it a lot. Good materials, well made and better functionality (for me at least).
Another great read. I love the Filson 48 hour bag but did not love the tin cloth and wanted it in twill. I bought a Sportsman Utility, removed the pocket (myself) and had a local leather shop add a piece of leather to where the pocket was and resew the bag. It’s perfect and was easily done.
Pic 2
Very nice
Pic 3
Hi Simon…I’m on a difficult decision here. I’m looking for one good quality canvass/ leather trim backpack that both myself and my wife can use.It may be used as a carry-on cabin bag. Three beauties flag up! I’m looking for good construction, durability and finish. They are, in order of choice….Bernard Winch, Tusting and Chapman. This also reflects descending price order here. My personal decision would be Bernard Winch.
Any thoughts here Simon… maybe other good makes perhaps?
I may be making a similar decision for more longer distance travel bags/ suitcases at a later date….like Rimowa for instance.
Many thanks again.
Lindsay
I’d highly recommend the Bennett Winch myself
Dear Simon,
I am looking for a backpack for my daily bike ride to work. So far I have always carried a waterproof bike messenger bag, but find it rather out of place in my working environment. What are your experiences with Bennett & Winch in terms of waterproofness? Unfortunately, I get caught in the rain quite often.
best regards
christopher
Hi Christopher,
I love my Bennett Winch, but it’s certainly not waterproof I’m afraid. These days I’m more of a fair-weather cyclist so it’s fine, but if I was going to cycle in the rain I would use a messenger bag too.
Dear Simon,
thank you for your fast response! I thought maybe the canvas version is waterproof. Good to know that it is not….
I have the leather, but I don’t think the canvas is waterproof, no. Certainly no waterproof zips
Simon, how would you rate the quality of Connolly bags (you mention their Grip Bag) relative to the Dunhill top-end line (I think it’s called Duke) and other leading brands?
It’s very good. Not mostly hand sewn, so not comparable with others on that score, but otherwise absolutely top notch
Have you since seen any alternatives to Rimowa?
They are now rather expensive, at over £900 for the carry-on luggage…
Unfortunately no – or at least, none that are doing what I want, which is the same quality but without the luxury price tag. There are cheaper ones that aren’t as good, and other luxury ones
Great guide Simon. Wonder if the gym bag is an extra category and what you have considered for that purpose. I have been looking for something practical with space and lots of compartments, but styled to work with a jacket and trousers. I opted for a Filson sportsman bag which suits my purposes but I didn’t have much to chose from outside of athletic styles.
I guess a lot of it depends what you need to carry in there. I don’t really carry a separate bag for the gym – rather, I put those things in a drawstring bag or dust bag (the kind many high-end bags come with) and put that inside my existing day bag. I’d rather that than have a cheapish gym bag
I agree that the classic briefcase is kind of out of place today, I would not be comfortable wearing it to work. I have the bound zip top from clegg in black which I really like. However, I think you also need a very slim briefcase where you can have your computer, paper and pen. If you go to business meetings almost every day, sometimes you want something lighter and more casual depending on the client you’re going to meet.
Do you recommend the Benneth Winch weekender bag over Frank clegg?
Suitcase, are you still recommending the Rimowa today. I’m looking for a new carry on and can’t find one. Either they are too expensive or don’t look good.
Both Bennett and Clegg are good – Bennett a little more modern in its details, Clegg a touch more traditional.
On suitcases, yes I too haven’t been able to find anything that is as good as a Rimowa, but not as expensive.
Please say “a” tote instead of “the” tote. When websites their item “the” X, it bugs me. Same for “shirting” when they mean shirts, or suiting when they mean suits.
I’m debating the colour of a new briefcase. This would be for work. My office is casual, but I’m one of the few who regularly wear tailoring.
I’m debating between dark brown (traditionally conservative colour) and burgundy (slightly darker than the brown, and slightly appealing to me).
Would you consider the burgundy to be appropriate, or is it best to stick with dark brown?
If you’re in doubt, I’d go with dark brown. A briefcase is likely to be unusual as it is, you don’t want an unusual colour as well. Also, a bag has to go with a huge variety of clothes
Hey Simon, have your heard about carl friedrik? what do you think about their palissy briefcase. It seems superb for the money
I have heard of them, and seen their stuff in person. It’s OK for the money, but the quality isn’t the highest – I think you largely get what you pay for
Thanks!
hi Simon
I have been looking through this feature trying to get some guidance on backpacks, specifically those which work with sloping shoulders such as mine and don’t need continual adjustment in the absence of a chest strap (which I use for hiking but I’d rather have something smarter than a hiking pack when travelling through London etc to meetings) I guess you have some experience of this- any advice?
regards
Jonathan
To be honest Jonathan, I rarely wear a backpack – I don’t want it on top of any delicate fabrics, like tailoring. I use them mostly for cycling and I don’t really have that issue
Hi Simon,
Do you carry with you a dedicated garment bag for your tailoring? A softer, lighter garment bag perhaps that qualifies as an item you can bring inside the cabin. And lastly, A question about hangers: When traveling with suits, do you bring hangers with you?
Duke
Hey,
I don’t carry a garment bag, no, I fold my jackets – see video here showing how. I wouldn’t ever carry hangers either
Hi Simon,
I am thinking in investing in a Large Check-In Rimowa suitcase in silver coloured aluminium and I am struggling between two models, the Original and the Classic. Do you have any thoughts on it that might help me decide between the two? For the Classic two things are speaking to me by now, one the wheels are larger than on the Original and two the colours of the handles are in tone with the suitcases body which makes the whole appearance neutral and not restrictive to other luggage carrying, like a tote or weekender in let’s say brown colours.
Many thanks in advance!
I’d go for the Original, largely for those reasons
Hi Simon, I was hoping for some advice:
Someone told me (and your website seems to confirm) that backpacks can be very bad for knitwear in the long-term, so I am considering getting some form of bag for my commute. I am (like many men I guess) drawn to leather because of the material, but also slightly worried it would be too smart.
Do you think something like this https://www.bleu-de-chauffe.com/en/205-messenger-bag could be casual enough to not look out of place with very casual outfits (think jeans/shetland or chinos/sweatshirt)?
Second: maybe hard to say, but do you think it is worth it in the first place to buy leather at this price point if one is looking to enjoy the material and nice aging properties etc?
If one is looking for something in a nice material with a work-wear vibe the alternative could perhaps be something like a Filson briefcase in cotton?
Thanks a lot,
TF
Hey,
Yes that linked bag would certainly be casual enough. But it’s a good point on leather, I’d be looking at something like Frank Clegg if you could, to get quality leather. Filson in canvas is a very good shout
Thank you for the reply!
Frank Clegg looks very nice, but the briefs are perhaps bit smart for me. The PS tote looks lovely, but I would miss a zip closure and internal dividers if I tried commuting with it.
As a non-expert is there any reasonable way to assess material quality when it comes to these things? Particular questions that can be asked of the makers?
Obviously price means something, but before your reply I would have attributed the price difference between the one I linked and FC to salary costs in France vs MA.
I see you have written about Bennett Winch in the past, would you still recommend them? Their totes (https://www.bennettwinch.com/collections/the-tote) look great to me, both the canvas and leather options.
Thanks again,
Price is certainly a factor. Ask if the leathers are vegetable-tanned, if they’re coated or not, if the hardware is brass – see article here for details.
Bennett Winch are good, yes. The totes and briefs aren’t that smart, and I’d perhaps prefer a Filson style-wise, but the quality is certainly what you’re looking for
Thanks again! This is helpful, also the link.
Is there such a thing as ‘good’ and ‘bad’ coatings? Asking because Frank Clegg states on their website that their leathers have a coating applied to them for general surface protection. Is it generally the case when things are labelled ‘water resistant’ that they have some sort of coating?
Cheers,
Usually, yes there is, and while some coatings can be bad, on a bag like this it’s not really an issue – because it’s not something that is just going to get dumped into a water system. Unlike something on a disposable item
Great article! Something interesting that I found out recently regarding Bennett Winch and Chapman’s bags. I’ve purchased several bags from both and found them similar(the 24oz bonded canvas, Italian tumbled leather, etc.). Unfortunately, a Bennett Winch backpack I recently purchased had a stitching issue and needed to be sent to the UK for repair, and the shipping label offered by Bennett Winch goes straight to John Chapman Ltd. I assume this means that Chapmans produce a good proportion of Benett Winch. Funny enough, I always thought Chapman’s construction is slightly better, especially those related to stitching.
Yes, Chapman produce their bags
Hi Simon,
What would be your recommendation for someone who dresses for a business casual work environment, but has to stand on a train for the commute which causes anything other than a backpack to be quite uncomfortable? While I agree a briefcase would look the nicest, it’s impractical for me. Would you say a leather backpack suffices as an alternative in this case?
Thank you,
Marc
I guess a better backpack would certainly help Marc, yes. Eg the black leather one at Bennett Winch is nice, I have one.
If you’re standing though, is not it not perfectly practical to have the bag at your feet? I often do so, and of course for years others did the same on the Tube before anyone wore backpacks
I appreciate the response. It is actually fairly common to see workers in NYC wearing a backpack, probably because of the train commuting. Regarding putting it on the floor, maybe your trains are cleaner, but the one I go on (NYC subway) definitely isn’t! So for me, that’s unfortunately not an option.
Thanks Marc. I wouldn’t say the trains here are particularly clean, but I’ve travelled a fair bit around Manhattan on the subway over the years with a bag on the ground. Maybe I’ve been lucky – certainly I’ve never commuted there
Forgot to ask: you mentioned a black leather bag from BW. However, I never wear black shoes. Always mid or dark brown. Would you still suggest a black backpack? Just curious why you mentioned black instead of the usual preferred choice of brown by many. Thanks again Simon.
Well I don’t really wear the backpack except for commuting, so in rather different clothing!
Brown might be more fitting, but I do prefer their black leather.
What are your thoughts on more structured canvas tote bags? The one you linked seems similar to a typical shopping tote bag, but there are options from LL Bean (cheap) and Frank Clegg (better quality). They’re got a bit more design to them, but they’re not dressy like the leather one you linked.
I think a lot of it depends on the design – which ones specifically were you looking at
I was specifically looking at the Boat and Tote®, Open-Top (medium size, regular handle, blue trim) from LL Bean and The Market Tote (natural canvas) from Frank Clegg. What are your thoughts on those?
The modern Boat and Tote isn’t that great quality wise – as the price kind of betrays. It’s a different style, but the canvas etc in something like Haulier is a lot better.
The Clegg is well made, but for some reason that colour combination never really appealed that much – perhaps because it looks more feminine? I think it might be rather personal and even irrational.
I don’t really get a feminine vibe from the Frank Clegg tote bag. It seems pretty nice/unisex to me, but I’m just basing it off pictures online. I feel like I’ve always thought of a canvas tote bag as being the natural colour, so it was the one I gravitated towards. What are your thoughts on the same bag, but in the olive colour? I generally tend to stick with neutrals so I don’t know if the black would go with the rest of my wardrobe. I wear a lot of colours that would probably pair well with natural/olive/navy.
Could you explain why it looks feminine to you? There was a YouTube video from The Armoury talking about proportions (handle, width, height, etc.). Is that what you mean? I feel like these proportions seem to be more generic?
Nice points. I think it’s more the contrast between the cream and the tan, and the amount of tan trimming. Those pale colours and the high contrast make it feel more like a combination you’d find on a handbag or a women’s tote. However it would probably help a lot when it was worn in, and both had acquired a bit of a patina – something women’s bags never really do due to their materials, but a Clegg one I’m sure would.
No, it wasn’t in regard to the Armoury proportions points, though it is easier for larger or less structured totes to perhaps evade any feminine associations.
I think the olive and black would be great if more worn with darker clothes or black shoes etc
In a casual setting where I would probably use this bag, I tend to not really wear much black footwear. But, I’m probably going to eventually dabble in it at some point. Generally, I wear wither sneakers of some sort or brown loafers/dessert boots. Do you think the black would only really work well with black footwear, or would my current colour palette also work?
I do have some darker clothing, such as navy/charcoal/dark brown/olive, so I’m thinking the olive may work as well. Thoughts?
Generally, I think they’re all pretty classic and timeless colours, right? If you had to rank them in terms of general versatility, what would you say? In terms of the rest of my casual wardrobe, I’ve taken a lot of cues from your other content on casual clothing.
I think the black trimming might not be the best with those other colours, or the trainers or brown boots myself. It certainly wouldn’t look wrong, just wouldn’t be quite as nice. The natural canvas colour is the most versatile I think
Hi Simon
Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere (I did search but couldn’t find it) or if this is the wrong place to ask this question, but have you looked at options for wash bags / dopp kits and if so, any recommendations?
I travel a fair amount and find that keeping my toiletries in a ziploc bag (as you had mentioned in your luggage packing video) becomes unsightly quick quickly. It’s also nice to be able to pull out a good looking bag in a hotel and place it in the bathroom.
I am considering a vintage hermes or louis vuitton bag but good condition examples are a) hard to find and consequently b) get very expensive!
Thanks very much in advance.
I’ve never looked extensively at them, but I have one from Connolly (here) that I really like and has aged well
Simon
There was a feature on packing for a holiday in the Sunday Times Style magazine on 16th July. David Gandy said that the SC Holdall from Bennett Winch was his go to piece for all travel occasions.
Apologies if this has been already mentioned, but a nice endorsement nonetheless.
Cheers, Brian
Ah how lovely, thank you for letting me know Brian
I’m looking to upgrade my weekender to a nicer canvas version for short road trips that I’ve been doing a lot more of recently. What colour do you think would be the best choice? Personally, I’m probably leaning towards either olive or navy, but I’m open to other suggestions as well.
Personally I’d go olive or black – navy often doesn’t look right in canvas unless it’s very dark
Could you expand a bit on why navy doesn’t look right on canvas?
I’m not sure I can to be honest! Good quality ones usually look OK, and dark navy is a lot better, but anything not that dark tends to look a little cheaper to my eye than other colours.
Personally, I think I would probably be leaning towards olive in that case. You think that would generally be a better choice?
I think so, yes
Hi Simon. I was wondering what your thoughts on the Bennett Winch Briefcase are ? In the dark coloured canvas and leather models it looks like it sits somewhere between a Filson (very casual) and an all leather briefcase like a Frank Clegg (potentially too formal for most). I’m not a big fan of the logo on the Bennett Winch but it otherwise looks to be a good quality versatile option for work/life. Very grateful for your thoughts or advice.
It’s a very difficult area to get right Shane, but personally that model doesn’t do it for me. I think the shape is maybe a little too casual for the intended style? Maybe the zip-top from Clegg is better in that regard?