Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style.
These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdown series - where I measure and analyse every tailor that's ever made me a suit.
The first one, here, explains how small alterations to the parts of a jacket can affect its impact and style.
For example, people often focus on the padding that a shoulder has, and then perhaps on the roping. But just as important is the width of the shoulder - extended for a bigger stronger look, or smaller for a casual sweater-like look.
Then there's the chest, the width and line of the lapel, the waist button, the opening and so on. In this first film I run through each of them, using my Fox Air suit from Kathryn Sargent as an example.
In future videos we'll compare this English/structured jacket specifically to a soft one from Naples, and then look at some little details of the Neapolitan shoulder.
The full Style Breakdown series, including 16 tailors so far, can be seen here.
And many, many thanks to Fox Brothers for supporting this series. Their new Fox Tweed bunch is shown at the beginning of the film, and there are more details on my favourite cloths from it here.
In the video I am wearing a corduroy suit from Ettore de Cesare, chambray button-down shirt from Luca Avitabile, and printed silk tie from Drake's.
All Permanent Style videos can be seen, collected, on our You Tube channel.