Introducing: Everyday Lighter Denim

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Wednesday, October 17th 2018
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It's that time of year, and new things are all arriving at once. Today it's a new, lighter shade of the Everyday Denim.

Everyday Denim shirting went down really well with readers, both as fabric and finished shirts, and several asked for other variations.

I think this, Everyday Lighter Denim, is the best addition: a paler shade in more standard, business-shirt blue.

Denim's normal rich, indigo-type colour has a deep appeal, but is not always that versatile. It’s a mid-tone and stronger than most menswear shirtings, which can make it hard to pair with some jackets and knitwear.

This new, Lighter Denim is more standard.

Its pale colour means it can go with any colour of tailoring, just like normal pale-blue business shirts. But it still has the texture, twill and fade of denim, to set it apart from anything actually corporate.

Other than the colour, Lighter Denim is the same in every way as the original Everyday Denim.

It is available on the shop site now, in the normal 2m lengths: shop.permanentstyle.com/products/lighter-denim-cloth

The slight downside to a lighter shade of denim is that it won’t fade quite as much as the deeper blue.

Darker indigos always fade more dramatically, as anyone that has worn raw denim or anything in a deep indigo dye can testify.

But the Lighter Denim still fades noticeably and achieves a similar effect to Everyday Denim.

In the images here, you can see how my shirt in it (about 10 washes in) has faded nicely around the colour edges, cuff, and front placket.

Having put this post together, I realise it would have been good to show the two shirtings alongside each other, to demonstrate the difference.

Apologies for that - I'll try to take some shots and correct the omission later.

Interestingly, when I was talking to the designer at Albiate recently (the Albini brand that designs their denims) he said either side of the fabric could be used.

This is a useful point, because I know a few readers asked with Everyday Denim which was the ‘face’ of the cloth - the one intended to be on the outside.

Denims, given their weave, always have a paler shade on the inside and a darker one the outside. Normally the darker shade is therefore the ‘face’.

However, there is no other difference between the two (such as a different finish). So if you want to, you can use the other side. It's a small difference, but there is a choice.

There will be finished shirts in this Lighter Denim by the way, as well as in the standard Everyday Denim, at the end of the year.

For more on the background to the Everyday Denim shirtings, read the backstory here.

You can buy the Lighter Denim shirting here.

Worn elsewhere:

  • Green-corduroy suit by Ettore de Cesare
  • Grey cashmere tie by Hermes
  • Silk pocket square by Ralph Lauren
  • Green Harris-tweed jacket by Cifonelli
  • White-linen pocket square by Simonnot-Godard

Photography: Jamie Ferguson

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JH

Hi Simon. Would appreciate your guidance with these questions:

1. I have a couple of lengths of the traditional Everyday Denim. Would you say that the new Lighter Denim is similar in color to the lighter side if the regular Everyday Denim?

2. I assume if I use the lighter side of my regular Everyday Denim out (instead of the “face” it would also fade less, right?

Thanks.

Dan Ippolito

Just out of curiosity, why is there a buttonhole halfway up the lapel of the harris tweed jacket?

Daniel S.

Simon,
What watch are you wearing in the shots with the Cifonelli jacket? (That jacket is incredible, by the way).
Thanks

James

Simon

In a slightly-related question, when do you expect the new batch of Friday long-sleeve polos to be come available?

Stephen Pini

Simon,

I am presuming this is the same weight as the previous (darker) version? 159g if I recall?

Stephen

FIDELIO

Tempted but already have 3 PS denim shirts so better stop! I also have a PS Oxford but would greatly appreciate a new run in a different color or perhaps a bengal stripe. Any plans for that?

FIDELIO

Simon, a somewhat related question. What is the size of the collar band on your spread collar shirts (top to bottom)? Front and back are the same width?

Anonymous

Now what would be quite nice is a run of that Breanish tweed/jacket you are wearing

david

Simon,

I also own 3 of your everyday denim, as well as your PS Oxford – do you think this fabric would be redundant?

Also, do you have the fabric details of your corduroy suit shown – it looks like there’s a lot of grey in the fabric. Lovely.

Thanks

Christos

So both sides can be used on the “old” regular Everyday Denim as well, right?
Beacause i have 1 made and another 3 lengths on stock.

Anonymous

Love the colour of this denim in the close-ups, very attractive shade of blue. As you point out a versatile shade that can be matched with many things. In the exterior shots the grading or colour correction (or lack of it) dims the shade of blue to a grey. In advertising the product suggest getting the two shades similar to its actuality to give colour clarity to the buyer.

HR

Have you had any of this cloth made up as with a regular collar instead of a button down? Thoughts on doing it this way?

Z

I will have it made with a spread collar. Have it on the other denim too. Works very good.

JB

Simon, in the store comment you mention 2 meters should be enough unless you’re 6’4 or taller. I’m 195 cm, which comes out to just around 6’4. Are you thinking of shirts long enough to cover the seat in order to stay tucked in, or what’s the benchmark here?
I’ve never had a shirt made up with a fabric not offered by the maker, so I have no idea if 2 meters is enough, I’m far from small and slender.. 🙂

Sigurd

So are you pre-announcing a bengal striped oxford later this autumn? If so, that would be useful information indeed. Asking for a friend!

FIDELIO

Simon, will the new version of the oxford cloth still be available this year? Looking forward to it.

Christos

Hi Simon,

have you made a placket on the everyday denim you made with a regular collar?

And how about you HR and Z? Have you made yours with or without a placket?

Z

No placket with regular collar here.

Z

Referring to Christos’ question whether my shirts with regular collar have a placket or not, I tried to say: No, I don’t have plackets on my regular collar shirts here. I ordered them without plackets.
Sorry for any confusion.

Christos

Yes, i meant Z and HR from this Post.

Thanks Z!

I have made my button down one with a placket. Now i am planning to make one with a regular collar and i am not sure about placket or no placket.

Simon, you are saying that you also have made one with regular collar, have you made a placket on this one?

Christos

Hi Simon,

is the fabric pre-washed ? Or will it shrink?

Bernie

Hi Simon,

If I normally have just one button unbuttoned when wearing open-necked shirts, does it make sense to have that button lowered so the collar opens up more? As a general guideline, the more you lower the button position the more width you give to the collar spread angle…is that how it works? Also, what is the impact of touching the second button? Diving headfirst into bespoke shirting and am interested in the details, thanks!

Bernie

Hi Simon,

Thank you for your insight. To clarify, You unbutton the first and second buttons(excluding the collarband button), but raise the third button so the opening isn’t as extreme, correct?

Bernie

Pardon the confusion, please ignore my earlier comment. I tend to button the 2nd button since the opening is too big if I unbutton it. But your solution of raising the third button controls the opening of the first two buttons, creating that nice V shape. Thanks again for your knowledge!

Joel C.

Simon,

I just received my PS Everyday Light Denim ready-to-wear shirt and I just wanted to say well done. The fabric is truly unique and the construction is on point. Will you be making a batch of striped oxford shirts anytime?

Martin

Hi Simon,

Regarding that specific collar, how do you iron/handle it so that it curls nicely outwards? I find that it often goes flat, contrary to the pictures shown here. Thanks

Anonymous

Hi Simon,
I was just wondering if you knew when the lighter denim cloth will be back in stock? It seems to have recently sold out.

Ben

I’ve picked up cut lengths in the Everyday Denim, and both oxfords, but missed this lighter denim. Will there be another run of this cloth in the future?

Also, you mention is several of the posts that the shirt has ben worn and washed a number of times before the photos were taken. Are you having your shirts laundered professionally, dry-cleaned, or washing at home? Could you advise on washing recommendations?

Heading to the shirt maker tomorrow with the denim and light blue oxford. Striped oxford is in transit.

Frank

Your pictures have already answered my question ! I have have been wondering if the (lighter) denim would be suitable with a tie. I have thinking to use a brown knitted Silk tie and a blue sports jacket and flannel. Do You think it will work?

Alexander

I received my first shirt from luca (lighter denim) about 10 days ago and I am very satisfied with the RTW-fit (medium size for my 41 inch chest). It could be a touch wider in the upper arm. Everything else is luckily spot on.
Geeky detail: The hand attached collar is attached with so many tiny horizontal stitches, that you could believe it is machine-stictched. It could appear cheaper than it really is. I have seen similar work on Kiton shirts. Other neapolitan shirts feature collars that are far more obviously handstitched with looser vertical stitches (fralbo etc.) Have you ever noticed that, Simon?

(Personal detail: I received my shirt the day after the shooting in Vienna, where the beautiful package was waiting for me in the same city district, which was encouraging in some way. This may sound weird to some people, given how unimportant meanswear really is. But I am sure some PS- readers can relate to the fact that beautiful hand made products bear the potential of having a heart-warming effect. It is all about passion after all.)

Nick Wattanavekin

Hi Simon

So the neck being 37 small – thats under 15″ around in circuference?