I’m seriously impressed with this tweed jacket from Cifonelli. The style is nice, with a mix of traditional and original detailing. But having put that together with Lorenzo, it was what I expected. Perhaps more surprising, and certainly more impressive, is the construction.
At every point the tailors have gone the extra mile. The hand sewing on the buttonholes is beautiful in itself, but they have also made sure to hand sew both sides of the top three, as the reverse will show when the collar is turned up (as it is designed and fitted to do).
The single buttons on the cuffs, equally, are hand sewn on both sides for when they are turned back. And that means hand sewing in suede, which is not easy. You can also see that hand stitching in the suede flap over the breast pocket.
Inside all the seams on the lining are done in a delicate hand stitch, using brown thread to contrast. Even where the side and back panels of the lining join. In fact, that seam features probably my favourite construction detail: little round tacks, by hand of course, where normal construction would just do a straight bar. It’s so subtle and so needless.
The triangles that secure each end of the slash pockets are impressive pieces of handwork, as is the sewing that connects the sleeve lining. We counted the stitches: between 12 and 14 to the inch.
The overall shape, as I alluded in the previous posts (here) is distinctive of Cifonelli. A soft chest but a strongly roped shoulder – together with a widish lapel and therefore thick collar – which leads to a structured, almost pagoda-type effect.
The fit is quite nipped at the waist with a definite flair to the skirt, a small chest and with a very high armhole leading to a narrow sleeve.
