Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review

January 22nd 2018

It’s so enjoyable writing good reviews. It is valuable to write balanced, semi-critical pieces of course, and this is a core part of Permanent Style. But you always feel very conscious of the effect the criticism ...

Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review

It’s so enjoyable writing good reviews. It is valuable to write balanced, semi-critical pieces of course, and this is a core part of Permanent Style. But you always feel very conscious of the effect the criticism ...

Jackets - TailoringJanuary 22nd 2018

Finest Knitwear available again – in navy and...

October 25th 2017

Our Finest Knitwear, which we created earlier this year, is back in a second batch with a new colour. Alongside the navy fine-merino knitwear - in crewneck and V-neck - there is now also a dark, muted green that I picke...

Finest Knitwear available again – in navy and...

Our Finest Knitwear, which we created earlier this year, is back in a second batch with a new colour. Alongside the navy fine-merino knitwear - in crewneck and V-neck - there is now also a dark, muted green that I picke...

October 25th 2017

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming week...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming week...

Black tie - JacketsSeptember 20th 2017

What I pack when I travel

July 19th 2017

As I return from two summer trips - one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples - it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of...

What I pack when I travel

As I return from two summer trips - one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples - it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of...

Accessories - BagsJuly 19th 2017

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

July 12th 2017

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding ...

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding ...

July 12th 2017

Brand round-up: Rubinacci, CQP and Carl Friedrik

July 3rd 2017

A slightly smaller set of reviews in the brand round-up this month, with more focus on the details. Rubinacci suit carrier, £1200 therake.com/brands/rubinacci/bags First up is this leather suit carrier - or garmen...

Brand round-up: Rubinacci, CQP and Carl Friedrik

A slightly smaller set of reviews in the brand round-up this month, with more focus on the details. Rubinacci suit carrier, £1200 therake.com/brands/rubinacci/bags First up is this leather suit carrier - or garmen...

Accessories - BagsJuly 3rd 2017

Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring

January 6th 2017

In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwield...

Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring

In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwield...

Finding a tailor - TailoringJanuary 6th 2017

Double-breasted flannel suit – with pink and ...

December 26th 2016

I know I've written about green and pink a few times before. I could find one old post with a little flower illustration, but there must be more. Perhaps it's the fog of Christmas food and wine clouding my mind. In any...

Double-breasted flannel suit – with pink and ...

I know I've written about green and pink a few times before. I could find one old post with a little flower illustration, but there must be more. Perhaps it's the fog of Christmas food and wine clouding my mind. In any...

Accessories - HandkerchiefsDecember 26th 2016

Unstructured casentino coat – Rubinacci x The...

December 9th 2016

Although some of the products aren't to my taste, I always keep an eye on what The Rake are doing in terms of collaborations. It's interesting to see a clear vision move through different brands and categories. One tha...

Unstructured casentino coat – Rubinacci x The...

Although some of the products aren't to my taste, I always keep an eye on what The Rake are doing in terms of collaborations. It's interesting to see a clear vision move through different brands and categories. One tha...

Overcoats - TailoringDecember 9th 2016

The Rake collaborations

April 21st 2016

I’ve had a few questions from readers as to my views on The Rake’s new collaborations – products that the magazine started selling on its site a couple of months ago. I’ve seen most of them fi...

The Rake collaborations

I’ve had a few questions from readers as to my views on The Rake’s new collaborations – products that the magazine started selling on its site a couple of months ago. I’ve seen most of them fi...

Boot - ScarvesApril 21st 2016

If you only had five handkerchiefs – a capsul...

January 7th 2016

A capsule collection has many uses. When you travel for long periods, for example, you want a small but versatile collection of clothes that has a large number of permutations, and suits different occasions. And if yo...

If you only had five handkerchiefs – a capsul...

A capsule collection has many uses. When you travel for long periods, for example, you want a small but versatile collection of clothes that has a large number of permutations, and suits different occasions. And if yo...

Accessories - HandkerchiefsJanuary 7th 2016

Milan: A sartorial city guide

September 16th 2015

Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are a...

Milan: A sartorial city guide

Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are a...

September 16th 2015

Rubinacci linen suit – on Wei

September 9th 2015

A couple of weeks ago when we showed the pictures from our Tailoring Symposium at Pitti, a reader asked if there were any images of Wei Koh’s suit. I had mentioned that the founder of The Rake was wearing a Rubi...

Rubinacci linen suit – on Wei

A couple of weeks ago when we showed the pictures from our Tailoring Symposium at Pitti, a reader asked if there were any images of Wei Koh’s suit. I had mentioned that the founder of The Rake was wearing a Rubi...

Style - SuitsSeptember 9th 2015

Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal deni...

August 17th 2015

In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together. Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubin...

Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal deni...

In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together. Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubin...

Casual jackets - Casual wearAugust 17th 2015

A hot, formal evening in Florence

July 27th 2015

Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation. We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against sta...

A hot, formal evening in Florence

Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation. We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against sta...

Loafer - ShoesJuly 27th 2015

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

July 20th 2015

At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a ‘shirt’ sleeve and patc...

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a ‘shirt’ sleeve and patc...

Jackets - OxfordJuly 20th 2015

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/gr...

Reader questions - Shirts and tiesFebruary 11th 2015

Denim and tailoring

October 31st 2014

The crossover between denim and tailoring is an interesting one. The appeal is perfectly understandable: like tight fits, short jackets or bracelets, it reflects a desire to undermine the conservative preconceptions of...

Denim and tailoring

The crossover between denim and tailoring is an interesting one. The appeal is perfectly understandable: like tight fits, short jackets or bracelets, it reflects a desire to undermine the conservative preconceptions of...

Casual wear - DenimOctober 31st 2014

Five tips on bespoke suits

June 23rd 2014

The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from mor...

Five tips on bespoke suits

The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from mor...

Suits - TailoringJune 23rd 2014

How to wear separate jackets and trousers

October 2nd 2013

In an age where suits no longer dominate the workplace, more and more men are wearing separate jackets and trousers. But while the dress code is more relaxed, the outfit is suddenly more complicated. There is much broade...

How to wear separate jackets and trousers

In an age where suits no longer dominate the workplace, more and more men are wearing separate jackets and trousers. But while the dress code is more relaxed, the outfit is suddenly more complicated. There is much broade...

Casual wear - JacketsOctober 2nd 2013

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&G

September 23rd 2013

These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of ...

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&G

These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of ...

StyleSeptember 23rd 2013