The guide to jacket pockets

July 27th 2020

  As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn&rsq...

The guide to jacket pockets

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A little bit fashion perhaps, also a little traditional like a riding jacket (where the slanted pocket came from). The slanted pocket also doesn't look that casual, like a patch would for example. At the least, I'd sugge...

Jackets - SuitsJuly 27th 2020

Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

June 1st 2020

This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; a...

Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

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Hey George, Sounds nice. My instinct would be black loafers, or very dark brown if not. I would definitely wear socks (sockless is far too casual) and I would wear a tie (it is meant to be an important occasion after all...

SuitsJune 1st 2020

Re-introducing, the Dartmoor polo-collar sweater!

May 17th 2019

Six years ago, we began a collaboration to create a perfect polo-collar sweater, called the Dartmoor. It was made by John Smedley, was popular with readers, and sold out several times. Since then, unfortunately, Smedley have discontinued it. So last...

Re-introducing, the Dartmoor polo-collar sweater!

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Hey Vidit, Lovely to hear, thank you for letting me know. Yes it does use the same gauge frames. Thank you, that is interesting to know and I'll certainly look into it....

KnitwearMay 17th 2019

Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown

March 8th 2019

In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be combined in a Neapolitan suit...

Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown

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Hi Simon, Thanks, yes I can see how that would be helpful. I guess it's not normally a high priority given it's an easy thing to convert yourself, and some people use both fairly interchangeably. But if I have time I'll ...

JacketsMarch 8th 2019

Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de ...

December 28th 2018

You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admired Michael Hill’s green-...

Olive-green corduroy suit – from Ettore de ...

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Hi Antoine, Two fittings, though it would have been three if it were my first commission...

Bags - ClothDecember 28th 2018

Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review

January 22nd 2018

It’s so enjoyable writing good reviews. It is valuable to write balanced, semi-critical pieces of course, and this is a core part of Permanent Style. But you always feel very conscious of the effect the criticism will have, and bad even if it&...

Saman Amel made-to-measure jacket: Review

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I would say with Saman that you shouldn't go off things like design details. The case for using them is style and customer service. They offer an incredible amount of service, including bespoke style recommendations, pre...

JacketsJanuary 22nd 2018

Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...

October 25th 2017

Our Finest Knitwear, which we created earlier this year, is back in a second batch with a new colour. Alongside the navy fine-merino knitwear - in crewneck and V-neck - there is now also a dark, muted green that I picked for its versatility. Both ar...

Finest Knitwear available again – in navy a...

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How wonderful, thanks for letting me know Michael...

October 25th 2017

Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...

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I don't know the exact history, but I think it came from English tweed jackets which themselves were derived from those made for riding...

Black tie - CoatsSeptember 20th 2017

What I pack when I travel

July 19th 2017

As I return from two summer trips – one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples – it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of course, an...

What I pack when I travel

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I highly recommend the unlined Duke from EG. Supremely comfortable and stylish, if you like a more classic / robust shape than B&L and something more substantial than the Polperro. I have a lovely biscuit coloured pa...

Bags - Casual clothingJuly 19th 2017

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

July 12th 2017

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands working ...

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

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No, sorry Oliver... haven't been in a while...

July 12th 2017

Brand round-up: Rubinacci, CQP and Carl Friedrik

July 3rd 2017

A slightly smaller set of reviews in the brand round-up this month, with more focus on the details. Rubinacci suit carrier, £1200 therake.com/brands/rubinacci/bags First up is this leather suit carrier - or garment bag - from Rubinacci, being ...

Brand round-up: Rubinacci, CQP and Carl Friedrik

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Sure Nathan. I haven't tried Carl Friedrik I'm afraid, so can't speak to them. But I do hope those influencers are talking about them after bashing them around on a few journeys, rather than just new. I use Rimowa, which...

Bags - ShoesJuly 3rd 2017

Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring

January 6th 2017

In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwieldy piece, so I thought I would ...

Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring

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Oh good, lovely to hear - let him know!...

JacketsJanuary 6th 2017

Double-breasted flannel suit – with pink an...

December 26th 2016

I know I've written about green and pink a few times before. I could find one old post with a little flower illustration, but there must be more. Perhaps it's the fog of Christmas food and wine clouding my mind. In any case, it bears repeating that...

Double-breasted flannel suit – with pink an...

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May I ask the cloth used in this commission?...

Hanks and scarves - StyleDecember 26th 2016

Unstructured casentino coat – Rubinacci x T...

December 9th 2016

Although some of the products aren't to my taste, I always keep an eye on what The Rake are doing in terms of collaborations. It's interesting to see a clear vision move through different brands and categories. One that caught my attention recently...

Unstructured casentino coat – Rubinacci x T...

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The cut is kinda weird. I ordered mine at the rake last week. It's size 56. My usual jacket/suits size is US 44 in most men's wear brands like Hackett, Charles Tyrwhitt..etc. However, 56 is quite snug overall, and I'm ha...

CoatsDecember 9th 2016

The Rake collaborations

April 21st 2016

I’ve had a few questions from readers as to my views on The Rake’s new collaborations – products that the magazine started selling on its site a couple of months ago. I’ve seen most of them first hand, inde...

The Rake collaborations

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The Husaren boots are the ones I had in mind to be worn in wintery blizzards with your new Sexton Great Coat....

Hanks and scarves - ShoesApril 21st 2016

If you only had five handkerchiefs – a caps...

January 7th 2016

A capsule collection has many uses. When you travel for long periods, for example, you want a small but versatile collection of clothes that has a large number of permutations, and suits different occasions. And if you commute by bike (as I do) yo...

If you only had five handkerchiefs – a caps...

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Agreed, I intend to have 5 linen ones in different colours and patterns that I can wear with either linen or fresco suits/jackets. I don't really wear ties since I wear suits/blazers because I want to, not because I have...

Hanks and scarvesJanuary 7th 2016

Milan: A sartorial city guide

September 16th 2015

Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are all pleasant places to stroll. ...

Milan: A sartorial city guide

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Not any more! It was down while we updated it - and the update went live this morning...

September 16th 2015

Rubinacci linen suit – on Wei

September 9th 2015

A couple of weeks ago when we showed the pictures from our Tailoring Symposium at Pitti, a reader asked if there were any images of Wei Koh’s suit. I had mentioned that the founder of The Rake was wearing a Rubinacci-made number in the s...

Rubinacci linen suit – on Wei

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Yes, I'd wear some sort of collar, and probably slip-on shoes, like a loafer or a pair of Sagans for example...

Style - SuitsSeptember 9th 2015

Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal de...

August 17th 2015

In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together. Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubinacci cashmere jacket. The corn...

Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal de...

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Hi, I'm afraid I never did an article about the belt, but I can do something more general in the future, yes absolutely...

Casual clothing - JacketsAugust 17th 2015

A hot, formal evening in Florence

July 27th 2015

Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation. We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against stark white. There is virtually n...

A hot, formal evening in Florence

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Great tie!...

Shoes - StyleJuly 27th 2015

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

July 20th 2015

At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a ‘shirt’ sleeve and patch pockets to make it c...

Wearing colour: Tobacco jacket and cream trousers

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I think cotton to be honest. The issue with these is mostly the fine yarn, but the weave is quite sharp as well....

Jackets - ShoesJuly 20th 2015

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

February 11th 2015

Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/grey suit. Any other combination...

How to wear a black necktie – reader question

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I read very little online about menswear, with the exception of Die Workwear. Jason Diamond's columns are good, as is anything Tony Sylvester writes, eg for Brycelands. My favourite Substack is The Ruffian, about politic...

Reader questions - StyleFebruary 11th 2015

Denim and tailoring

October 31st 2014

The crossover between denim and tailoring is an interesting one. The appeal is perfectly understandable: like tight fits, short jackets or bracelets, it reflects a desire to undermine the conservative preconceptions of suiting. The execution, howev...

Denim and tailoring

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Thanks, although with some bespoke like that at Levis written about here, you can have that denim and get (in my experience) a better fit than through wash and wear...

DenimOctober 31st 2014

Five tips on bespoke suits

June 23rd 2014

The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from more than 20 tailors. But a reade...

Five tips on bespoke suits

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Good idea, yes...

SuitsJune 23rd 2014

How to wear separate jackets and trousers

October 2nd 2013

In an age where suits no longer dominate the workplace, more and more men are wearing separate jackets and trousers. But while the dress code is more relaxed, the outfit is suddenly more complicated. There is much broader range of cloth, colour and p...

How to wear separate jackets and trousers

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In terms of jackets? I'd start with something like a light or mid-grey jacket, white shirt and black shoes. I'd then also try a navy, a cream, possibly a black, and possibly a beige/oatmeal. Plain colours (given the trou...

Jackets - StyleOctober 2nd 2013