Six years ago, we began a collaboration to create a perfect polo-collar sweater, called the Dartmoor.
It was made by John Smedley, was popular with readers, and sold out several times. Since then, unfortunately, Smedley have discontinued it.
So last year we began the process of recreating it with the Italian factory we work with, Umbria Verde, and I’m really pleased to say that it is finally available again.
Indeed, it is rather improved on the original, in terms of the quality of the merino used, the fineness of the make, and the functionality of the style.
I find a polo-collar sweater like this endlessly useful, because it’s such a smart style of knitwear.
I don’t necessarily want to wear a shirt every day: I instantly feel more relaxed without one, and ironing is never fun.
But wearing just a crewneck or V-neck isn’t that smart. The addition of a collar makes the knitwear much sharper and sartorial, but no less comfortable.
Just as importantly, a crew or V-neck sweater without a shirt underneath is not that flattering on many men.
I see a lot of guys wearing a crewneck as dressed-down office attire. It can look good: casual yet refined.
But just as a collared shirt is more flattering on most men, so too is knitwear with a collar. Especially for anyone with smaller shoulders or a longer neck.
I wear a polo-collar sweater like this with tailored trousers, as shown above, and a blouson or other suede jacket over the top.
I’ll either wear a T-shirt underneath or - as here - a vest.
The only issue with polo-collar sweaters, I find, is that they don’t work under tailoring. The collar has a tendency to collapse under the lapels, or occasionally flap out over the top.
That's a shame, because it’s a great option to have under a tailored jacket: a shirt alternative that’s not as dressed up or seasonal as a roll neck.
So on this new version of the Dartmoor, we worked through several prototypes to improve how the collar sat under tailoring.
We knitted the collar tighter, reinforced the placket with a light fusing, and moved the collar’s position up the neck.
We also experimented with different lengths and angles of collar, to find one that wouldn’t collapse underneath the jacket, or flop outside it.
The result, as you can see from the images, is pretty good.
A knitted collar like this is never going to have the stability of a shirt. It will move around, shift from side to side, and need a touch of adjustment when you put your jacket on.
But it doesn’t readily collapse or flop out, and in that regard does what we wanted. It’s a realistic, elegant alternative to a shirt under tailoring (as many things we’ve done are).
The Dartmoor is made from a fine Loro Piana merino wool: the best merino you can get, but in a slightly thicker yarn than the Finest Knitwear we did previously - in order to be more similar to the original.
It has a placket with three mother-of-pearl buttons, and a ribbed cuff that is designed to be folded back on itself.
This double cuff is a little smarter than a regular one (in the same way a French cuff on a shirt is: no seam is exposed) and also allows a little adjustment in the sleeve length, which is nice.
I’ve continued to use Umbria Verde in Italy for this production because Simone and his team produce to such a high level.
There are little touches of this exceptional quality throughout the garment. For example, the placket is knitted in the same direction as the body of the sweater, making it feel like part of the whole (below, circled). This takes an extra step in production, and almost no one else does it.
The collar is also fully fashioned together with the body - rather than cutting the collar separately and knitting it on. Again a small point, but it too makes the collar feel part of the rest of the piece, and avoids a hard seam.
The shoulder seam is fashioned using a herringbone style, which you would never notice but gives the seam more stretch than a normal one, and therefore more comfort. (Indicated above with a green line.)
And finally - the easiest thing but probably my favourite - the buttons are fastened with different-length shanks. The bottom two have a long shank to make fastening easier, but the top one has a short shank so the collar sits flat if you do it all the way up.
I've included images the factory sent, above, because I love how excited they were to communicate these things. People never normally ask.
The Dartmoor is only available in navy at the moment, but we’ll do more colours in the future.
As per usual, it’s also good value as we pass on a lot of the savings of only selling online, and don't do wholesale. The Dartmoor costs £215 plus VAT - almost half the price it would be from one of those luxury brands.
The fit is the same as the Finest Knitwear, so anyone that has bought that previously should buy the same size here.
I would describe that fit as moderately slim. It’s nice on me, but also works on less-skinny readers that I’ve seen. For full measurements see the shop page here.
I really hope you like the Dartmoor, and find it useful. In an age of dress-down tailoring, it feels like the kind of thing men will get a lot out of.
Dartmoor worn with:
- Bespoke trousers from Cerrato in Fox Brothers flannel
- Bespoke jacket from Rubinacci in vintage donegal-style cashmere
- Handmade RTW derby shoes from Philippe Atienza
- Hand-sewn Cuir-de-Russie folio from Equus Leather
- Wool-and-silk handkerchief from Drake’s
Photography: James Holborow. Shot around my home in East Dulwich, and its wonderful street art.
This looks beautiful, Simon. Exactly my style.
I struggle with one aspect of wearing merino polos, and that is that if not worn with a t-shirt underneath then I feel it necessary to wash them after every wear. A vest as you’re wearing above wouldn’t protect the garment from your armpits, and a t-shirt, even a v-neck is rather conspicuous under such refund knitwear.
How do you deal with this issue? Are you happy to regularly wash knitwear worn next to skin?
Hi Guillaume,
I know what you mean. I occasionally wear knitwear like this (more often knitted merino T-shirts) without anything underneath, and in that case I would wash it every 2 or 3 wears. Merino is a lot better than cotton when it comes to odours.
But generally with a sweater like this, I wear it with a deep-V T-shirt or a vest under it. The vest does help a little, but the V-neck is the most effective. And I don’t find it shows that much.
Simon, what company makes your merino t-shirts?
I have nice fully-fashioned ones (made like knitwear) from both Connolly and John Smedley. And I have cut-and-sew ones (made like a T-shirt) from Rapha and Private White VC
This looks great, and I was heartened to see the fold back cuff, as this is a feature of Smedley knitwear that I’ve always liked given the length of my arms.
However, upon looking at the dimensions listed in your shop, this seems to have been undermined somewhat by what I presume must be unusually short sleeves up to the cuff itself: the size medium is listed as having sleeves of 64cm, with the rib cuff extended. Compare that to the size medium of the Friday polo where the sleeve length is 65cm.
Is that right? Say it ain’t so Simon!
O
Sorry Oliver, a mistake there – it’s 64cm with the cuff folded back. I’ll change that now, thanks for spotting it.
You can also adjust the sleeve length by 1-2cm with that double cuff, shorter or longer, so hopefully the length will be good for everyone.
Pleased about the turn back cuffs as well. I find the Friday Polo fits great EXCEPT for the length of the sleeves which are too short. it basically means it doesn’t work great with tailoring since the jacket sleeves are longer than the shirt sleeves.
The sleeves on this polo sweater look to be longer, on top of the option to unfold the cuffs.
Hi Simon,
Have you ever thought of releasing a short sleeve merino polo ? Smedley has the excellent Dorset (long sleeve, in wool) & the also fantastic Isis (short sleeve, in cotton), but they have nothing short sleeved in wool.
For me it would make for a useful intermediary, mild-weather garment.
Researching online I’ve only ever been able to find flamboyant, retro versions, but never anything well-made & understated.
Best regards,
Pyc
Nice idea Pyc. Yes, perhaps something we could consider in the future.
This polo sweater clearly looks great under tailoring. Wonderful job Simon!
I was wondering about the temperatures in which you can wear this sweater. Is it made for autumn-spring, or rather for winter (such as turtlenecks) ? Is it thin enough to be worn even in summer due to merino wool’s thermoregulating capacities ?
Hi Christopher,
It’s made for Autumn-Spring, but could also be happily worn in Winter. The variation would largely come with what was worn over the top of it.
In the summer in the UK it would be OK on its own most of time, but not under a jacket probably.
S
A candidate for the core men’s casual wardrobe maybe?
Much of what you mention about how this can be worn for the Friday polo as well. So what would be the differences in the Dartmoor’s place in a wardrobe vs the Friday polo? A bit warmer and a bit smarter?
Yes, good point.
On the comparison to the Friday Polo, you’re right it’s a little warmer and a little smarter. I’d also say the Friday Polo is a piece designed only to wear with tailoring, whereas the Dartmoor is designed primarily to wear without tailoring, but can be worn that way as well.
Can’t wear Friday with jeans?
Yes, though it would have to be tucked into them (it’s too long not to) and the collar might be a little high without a jacket over the top. But that depends on your shape and the style you like too.
Great to see the merino polo getting its due – perhaps I’m biased after growing up with strong merino brands such as Icebreaker. But to ask about a related style, what do you think of polo sweaters worn over shirts? It’s a look favoured by Luca Faloni among others, and I find polo sweaters work well with various amounts of layering. Thinking of your previous post about basics, they seem an alternative to crewnecks – similar function, but perhaps helping one look a little more active or less conservative?
p.s. I see confirmations for the Tokyo symposium have come out. Have a good trip out – the weather here has been beautiful just lately.
Personally I prefer a crew or V-neck over a shirt, but the polo sweater over the top can look OK, in a deliberately unusual kind of way. Not how I’d wear it all the time though.
Thanks, excited about coming out to Tokyo. Hopefully see you there.
Hi! this looks very good, but does the upgrade in material and finishing justify the price hike from £145 previously to £215 now?
thanks!
Absolutely Theo. The product is vastly better – the best quality merino and make you can find in the world. I can guarantee you the margin on it is smaller as well, despite being more expensive.
If you found this in one of the stores of a luxury brand (that Umbria Verde also makes for) it would be £400.
I realise that not every reader needs or wants the very best quality in these things, but that’s what I aim for. If you don’t want that, then Smedley is a great alternative.
It’s not for me in either style or price, but I respect and appreciate your transparency, Simon
No worries Hugh. We deliberately make things that are niche, in purpose and quality, so it’s good to get this across.
Very good to see this, although I am unable to wear wool next to my skin (on my upper body, at least). Perhaps you could also consider bringing back the “Finagon” knitted waistcoat you made with Smedley? They’ve also discontinued that product and replaced it with something vastly inferior.
You read my mind Andy!
Simon, what other knitwear does this factory produce for you ,under its own label, or for others?
It doesn’t have its own label. It produces the Finest Knitwear for us, which is largely sold out at the moment. And it produces the knitwear for the best luxury brands out there – which is why I went to them. They’d rather not shout about which though.
Simon, please forgive my question as I should have read the previous articles concerning the company which had the answers. The right question is have there been any changes in the crew or V-neck models? What are the current colors available? Currently the only merino polo I wear is the Dorset by John Smedley, primarily because of the turn-back cuffs and collar. This Dartmoor has the cuff I like and the wool is definitely better, but the collar is different. Perhaps you could expand a bit on the collar differences.
On the crew and the V-neck, you mean our Finest Knitwear? That’s basically sold out at the moment, almost nothing left. Waiting on a new run.
On this compared to the Dorset, the fit is a little slimmer (the same as the Finest Knitwear) and the make and merino are better, as you say. The collar is a little higher, slightly more spread, and knitted tighter, so feels like it has more body to it.
Hope that helps.
Yes, PS finest knitwear. I wear a large in the Dorset as well the Smedley Bobby model. Would you suggest size large in the Dartmoor and the v-neck as well? I have a 42 1/2 inch chest, 33 waist.
Hi Scott,
Yes, probably, though if you have time do check the measurements of the Dartmoor against your Dorset and Bobby. That will be the safest way to avoid exchanging sizes.
S
About time. Dartmouth is one of my favorite pieces. Look forward to it!
Once again a really nice garment!
Where do you see difference in wearing the polo merino sweater to wearing the long sleeved polo shirt, especially in combination with tailoring?
Best regards
C.
Thanks Christopher. It’s something I discussed a little in comments above. Do you want to have a look at that and let me know if you have any specific questions?
I guess I haven‘t read all comments, my question ist already there and answered! First reading, then writing…Sorry for that!
No worries. Do shout if you have any other queries
Hi Simon,
Just ordered two – any thoughts on a cotton knit version? Looking to a wider range of colors, preferably in the muted Saman Amel colorway.
Thanks Bernie.
I think I’d look to other colours in wool first, but cotton is a nice suggestion thanks
Hi Simon,
Looking forward to more versatile colors for this wool version. I find that knits have a more forgiving fit compared to the cotton pique Friday pole hence my desire for a cotton knit version as my body is ideal for OTR, thanks
Hi Simon, love the polo! I have recently discovered Permanent Style and am always excited the new items you release in the PS store. It may have been mentioned before, but is it possible to get this made in an XS size in the future for garments such as this one or others? I love the style of this polo and the amount of effort put into the details to enhance it, but unfortunately I am a size XS.
Hi Chris,
Usually we can’t I’m afraid, as our size just doesn’t make it possible to have a big range. But we’re looking at some MTO options for the future.
By the way, it might be worth checking the measurements on the small as it the Dartmoor is fairly slim
Could you explain what you mean by “as our size just doesn’t make it possible to have a big range”? Also, could you expand on the MTO options you mentioned? Sounds promising.
I also wanted to mention that I believe you were offering a Valstarino jacket not too long ago that started at size 46, even though there are some places that stock size 44 Valstarinos (e.g. Mr. Porter). Is the reason as to why you didn’t have size 44 for the Valstarino the same as not stocking XS for the polo?
Hi Chris. Yes, the same reason. Basically, if you’re a bigger company you can afford the risk of having a variety of sizes not sell, and therefore can carry more of them. You can also afford to carry more colours or materials.
On the MTO, this is something we will probably introduce with shirts first. But it’s heavily dependent on having stock access to the fabric. One advantage of the fact that we also sell the fabric for the shirts!
Makes sense. Looking forward to seeing you offer MTO in the future.
Thank you for your responses.
Dear Simon,
readers of PS will have already understood your love for garments and tailoring.
Your description of the Dartmoor is another fine example of your love for this industry, you even put thought into the button shanks.
Very inspiring, as always.
Looks beautiful, Simon! Could you please let us know which is the gauge? 30, perhaps? Thanks.
It’s 33
Hi Simon, looks like another useful addition to the PS shop (though I am still hoping for another run of the Finest Knitwear!). I have a question on the size / fit: in the Finest Knitwear I wear a medium – initially ordered a large since as per the measurements given it seemed on paper at least to be a better fit, however, after wearing both medium is the size I kept. Since the Dartmoor is made of slightly heavier merino, do you reckon it will likely be a more snug fit compared to the Finest Knitwear? If that’s the case, then I may just order a size large in this one. Thanks in advance!
Thanks Kashif. No, I’d take the same size in this as you took in the Finest Knitwear
Hi Simon, this looks great! Any plans for other colours (grey or green perhaps) ?
Yes, but not soon
Looking at the close-ups, it’s actually hard to imagine this collar not behaving poorly under tailoring. The design appears quite typical, and with ones I own I can get the collar to appear as it does in your photos – but won’t stay put for long.
But, of course, I’ll take your word for it. It looks great and exactly my style.
What colours do you plan to add?
I know what you mean Matt. The design is only slightly different, with the angle of the collar changed slightly. The biggest difference is the tightness of the collar, which you can’t really see from the photos.
It’s still not perfect, and does move around, but I find it a considerable improvement on the normal design.
On colours, to be honest I haven’t begun to think about it seriously yet. It would be this Autumn at the earliest
Looks beautiful! May I ask what the title of the yarn is?
Also, I know Loro Piana produce two Merino-based yarns: “Gift of Kings” (12 microns in diameter), which I believe they keep exclusive to the Loro Piana brand, and “Wish” (70% Merino, 30% Nylon), which they sell to 3rd parties. Which Loro Piana yarn is the Dartmoor made from?
From ‘Wish’. Thanks
30% nylon? Really?
I should clarify: Wish is a broad brand, and the ones we’ve always used have no nylon in them 100% merino
Simon
Does this mean this product is 30% nylon??? Not v transparent I must say. Really not what I expect from PS
No it is not! Just corrected that
Hi Simon, so the Dartmoor and the PS Finest Knitwear are made of a partially synthetic material?
No, neither is. It’s 100% the finest merino. Sorry I didn’t make that clear in my reply
Simon, apologies for the confusion my post generated – and many thanks for clarifying this
So to be clear (from the above description of LP’s Wish), the Merino contains 30% nylon? It’s just that you state……….’The Dartmoor is made from a fine Loro Piana merino wool: the best merino you can get, but in a slightly thicker yarn’. No mention of nylon…just looking for clarity.
Wow, should have checked these comments earlier! No, it’s all merino. See comments above
I have a merino wool henley that I absolutely love. Sadly, it is wearing out and I can’t find another like it.
A possible project for Permanent Style Simon?
Thanks for the clarification about yarn content Simon. Thought it a bit odd (if you were to use nylon) but then your readership is slightly obsessive about the details…
Simon, received my Dartmoor, yesterday great delivery UK to NYC in 3 days. The XL fits me well as a tall and thin guy. Very nice quality, color and finish and best of all the collar works well wit my jacket.
Appreciate your efforts on this piece.
Thanks
Cliff
So pleased to hear that. Thanks
Hi Simon,
Is the new book just all the shopping info that you’ve done on Cities that are on the site or is there new stuff?
There’s a few new things as well – details on the site tomorrow
Hello. For reference, how much thinner would you say the Dartmoor is as compared to Drake’s lambswool polo sweater? And how much thicker than the Finest Knitwear? Thanks!
Hmm, hard to ‘gauge’ it exactly! Geddit? A menswear joke!
Seriously, the best comparison is probably with Smedley if you have any – it’s very similar to that, where Finest Knitwear was finer
Ha! That was a good one!
Unfortunately, I don’t have any Smedley and don’t recall their feeling. However I was able to try Drake’s lambswool polo collar sweater. I understand it is different to the Dartmoor, but if you could please share your impression on the difference in the material and cut, that would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.
Very different material, much finer and dressier. Similar cut but perhaps a little neater and closer to the body
I got the sweater 2 days ago and have to say that the quality and the cut is really better compared to the brand Falke (which is also good), especially in the cut…
And I don’t find it too tight despite my stature (and I go to the gym 3 times a week)…
Thanks for this wonderful sweater!
Now I’m waiting for the Finest Knitwear to come back or a new batch…
Best Regards from Berlin,
Y
Oh good! I’m so pleased Yassin. Thanks for letting me know
Is it possible to buy the Dartmoor sweater as a cloth Simon? Do you have the swatch #?
No, not really. It’s not cloth – no knitter would ever buy or use it like that.
Knitters buy yarn, and you can source this yarn from Loro Piana (the finest Wish quality) if you’re a producer
Then it’s not possible to have this made bespoke?
Not by anyone I know. But if you could find a knitting company that makes bespoke knitwear, they could probably do it.
Dear Simon
They are such a good factory and I am thrilled you are using them – we as you know, have made our Connolly classic three button merino fine gauge polo with them, since 2016 … that Lorraine, our Connolly knitwear designed with Simone. Its so great to see you support these amazing suppliers too.
All my very best
Isabel
Thank you Isabel, yes they’re a real pleasure to work with, and always striving for the very best.
Does the dartmoor work with all buttons done up ? what does the collar look like?
Yes, it does. You can see it worn here
Simon, do you expect to restock the Dartmoor in size XL this year? If so, when? Thank you.
Yes, it should be here in the Autumn. Do email [email protected] if you would like an alert when they’re back in
What are your recommended washing instructions and how do you clean it? Any thoughts on hand-wash vs dry cleaning?
See our video on knitwear care here.
Generally hand washing is better for the garment, though dry cleaning is not as bad here as it is with tailoring.
Hi, Simon. I’m deciding between X and XL. Will there be any shrinkage over time after hand washing?
No
Simon, will you be launching new colors of the Dartmoor this year?
Yes, there will be a grey coming out very soon actually. It will be announced on the main PS site, here
The Dartmoor is a beautiful piece, and I love mine. Interestingly, I have found the sizing of PS items to be inconsistent, although this is understandable given different makers. For example, I found the medium in the Friday Polos to be the perfect size for me, with the small being uncomfortably tight. But in the Dartmoor, I ordered a medium, and it is loose and flowy, and I end up wearing it over other shirts, otherwise it feels too blousy. As you say, best to measure each garment against something you own.
Thanks Jonathan, useful feedback
Hi Simon quick question: what size of the Dartmoor sweater are you wearing in the pics? I am about your height (187 cm) but I have 106 cm chest and 47.5 shoulder width, you think an L would do? Or would an XL fit better? Thanks in advance
Hey Ric,
I’m wearing a Medium. It’s hard to give advice that’s that accurate off body measurements, particularly as people like knits to fit differently, so we recommend comparing the measurements of this to a piece of knitwear you already own. That’s much more reliable.
Cheers
Hi Simon.
With regards to what to wear underneath, I would recommend the Uniqlo AIRism V-neck from personal experience. I now wear it year-round under all of my dress shirts and knitwear to limit the need to wash. It’s light enough to wear during the Australian summer without feeling as though one is over-layered in the heat.
For anyone unsure about whether to purchase size Large vs size Extra Large, I have some input. I’m 6’1″ (1.85 m) and weight 190 lbs (86 kilos). I debated getting the Extra Large but my wife requested I get the Large because she said I have a tendency to choose baggy clothes and she prefers a more form-fitting look. Therefore I purchased the size Large and the first thing I noticed was that the sleeve length long enough but only if I extended the cuffs to nearly their full length. I know the sleeve cuffs were intended to be folded for a more finished look. Unfortunately, the sleeves need to be rolled back about 1/2 inch or so to be the perfect length and tiny fold looks ‘off’ due to the exposed seam on the inner aspect of the cuff. Also, the cuff (when only folded 1/2 inch) wants to become unfolded so I’m kind of fighting with it to stay folded back.
My wife says she doesn’t care about the cuff situation at all and it doesn’t visibly appear problematic. What she does like is that the size Large is pleasantly slim (not overly so) through the stomach and torso – and lays nicely along the shoulders. The material is fine and thin – and unmistakably high quality. Here in the States, finding this level of quality would be challenging at the highest end retailers like Neiman Markus or Saks Fifth Avenue, unlikely at Ralph Lauren (even their highest quality) and down right impossible at Polo, Banana Republic or typical mall stores.
Final cost of this sweater in my case was $306 US. I’ve paid close the same amount for some sweaters in the past, and those sweater lasted maybe 2 or 3 years. Time will tell how this sweater compares with normal use (both under a sportscoat and just wearing solo) and of course very gentle care/cleaning. I will treat this item carefully to try to get my money’s worth.
The only issue I have with the size Large is that my arms are apparently too long for the cuff fold to work ideally. I do plan to wear a thin merino tee shirt underneath to hopefully make the sweater last longer. Also, if you have a hairy chest you’ll probably want to wear a tee underneath because of the thinness of the sweater’s material.
Do you recommend hanging this sweater or folding it?
Folding. I would always fold knitwear, though the heavier it is the more important that is
I love it and have shamelessly copied your combo with light grey flannel trousers and my new brown escorial tweed jacket but must say the collar doesn’t hold up under the jacket at all. It’s as floppy as they get from my perspective.
Sorry about that Jan. I’d hope at least it would be better than others, even though obviously being nothing like an actual shirt
I’m sure it is and I really like it anyway
Oh good,.that’s nice to hear
In case anyone is looking for a hidden t-shirt to wear under the Dartmoor or other open-neck knitwear, these deep-v v-neck underwear t-shirts from sunspel are great:
https://www.sunspel.com/euro/mens-superfine-cotton-low-v-neck-underwear-t-shirt-in-white-mtsh4002-whaa.html
I just got this in cellular cotton (very lightweight and airy) and it is perfect; it can’t be seen at all:
https://www.sunspel.com/euro/q14-cellular-low-v-neck-t-shirt.html
Nice, thanks John.
Hi Simon, saw your IG post about Crabtree’s cashmere polo collar sweater. How would you compare it to the Dartmoor and to Luca Faloni? Thanks.
It’s a different style to the Dartmoor – the D is fine gauge, more like Smedley. Smarter and lighter.
Of the two cashmere ones, I prefer the Crabtree, largely because of the style. The Faloni ones are particularly slim in this style, with no ribbing
Thank you, this is very helpful. A few follow ups if you don´t mind:
1. What size did you go for?
2. Did you go for flannel or charcoal grey?
3. What did you think of the navy? Is it true dark navy?
4. How would you wear/style this sweater? Their webpage recommends layering over an OCBD, but that look always seemed a bit strange to me.
Thanks again.
Sure.
1. 42. Bear in mind that’s not related to a jacket chest size, but a measurement on the sweater. I’d say 42 is pretty much a medium.
2. Charcoal grey, but just because that was the gap I had. Both the others would work well too.
3. To be honest I can’t remember, sorry, it’s a while since I’ve seen it in person.
4. I wouldn’t wear it over an OCBD either. I wear it with a white T-shirt underneath, with white or indigo jeans.
Hi Simon, what do you think of these polos just launched by The Armoury? Particularly in terms of their choice of material vs yours. How differently would you wear them? https://thearmoury.com/products/wool-silk-cashmere-knit-polo?variant=39273125544007
I haven’t tried them, but I would wear them in the same way as the Dartmoor. The significant differences are the material – I prefer fine merino generally, rather than mixes like this – and the collar, which is higher and more suited to tailoring on the Dartmoor. Also it looks like the Armoury ones are shorter, better for high-waisted trousers
Thanks Simon. The Armoury is advertising their wool/silk/cashmere as a summer knit. In your opinion, would such a material be better suited warmer temperatures than the 100% merino wool of the Dartmoor? What is the warmest weather you would comfortably wear the Dartmoor in?
Also, I read elsewhere on the site that you are planning to release a short-sleeved knit polo in merino wool. Two questions there: when do you expect them to be available, and is their material different to the Dartmoor’s? Thanks.
The two would perform similarly. The cashmere would be warmer, but the silk cooler. That yarn combination is usually used to create a particularly luxurious feel, but retain coolness. Rather than just aim for maximum coolness.
The short-sleeved ones should be available in May. The material is different though – crisper and more open, to make it much cooler.
Do you still plan to release a cream Dartmoor (with long sleeves)? If so, any ETA? Thanks!
Yes, but it will be a couple of months. Always best to talk to the support team ([email protected]) to be on the waiting list and get updates
I have many pieces from JS but the umbria verde crew neck Pullover I purchased from PS a few years back is much much better than the world’s finest knitwear. It is light, warm but not too warm, washes well and still looks new. More recently i have been wearing it with a t-shirt under neath. Not sure the collar on the Dartmoor is for me, I am patiently waiting for the pullover to return. It was my best purchase in the last decade.
Nice to hear Neil, thanks. Do drop the support team a note to let them know you’d be interested in another run if we ever do one. We’re not planning to, but at the same time I want to keep all the names together just in case, as it would be a shame if we didn’t have everyone’s details
Cheers
I just wanted to second the comment from Neil. My navy crewneck was my absolute favourite item of clothing until I somehow lost it. In hindsight I wish I’d bought 3 of them.
I have tried Smedley (nowhere near as nice), Connolly (ok, but not as nice and the fit didn’t work for me), Viola Milano (don’t get me started, but DO NOT buy anything from them) and Frans Boone x Lockie x Loro Piana (which is the best of the rest, but still an 8/10 and not a 10/10) as replacements, but none come close.
If another run happens I will be so happy and will name my next child Simon (whether it’s a girl or a boy)
Blimey. At least Simone if it’s a girl? Simon would seem cruel.
Noted Jonathan, thanks. I’ll add you to that list as well.
I believe I checked every Dartmoor article and couldn’t find details about the cream long sleeve polo.
Could you point me to it?
Hi Henry,
We introduced a cream colour of the Dartmoor, but there was never a launch article on it (there often isn’t when it’s just a new colour). You can see it pictured in this article though.
May I ask, which size you are wearing?
Medium
Hi Simon, would the Dartmoor sweater not work with jeans like the Finest polo?
Many thanks,
Jack
Both are borderline for me Jack. They’re designed to be smarter than that, but you could at a push. And for example with dark indigo or ecru jeans, rather than a washed or faded blue
How does the Loro Piana Merino compare to Smedley’s Merino? Is there a discernible difference? Is it possible to see a difference between 19.5 microns and 16 microns? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!
Yes, absolutely, it’s immediately discernible. Most people that feel the LP merino think it’s cashmere, but of course it performs better
Hi Simon,
Really loving the combination also with the grey trousers, could you inform me where they are from?
Best regards,
They were from Cerrato in Naples I believe – it’s Fox light-grey flannel material
Simon, hi! While on the aspect of value PS easily comes on top, how do the Dartmoor and the corresponding short sleeve polo (forgot the name, sorry) fare vs. similar offerings by Colhay? I understand it may not be the same type of fabric, but taking that into consideration, how do they compare in terms of fabric weight, versatility, climate appropriateness, sturdiness, feel, construction quality, dry vs soft hand, yarn density, etc. Thanks!
Well, on the short sleeve:
– Colhay’s is an unusual one, quite heavy for a short-sleeve, and warm being cashmere/silk. I love mine, but it’s not super versatile. Feels like a regular knit almost in weight, like the rest of their things
– The Finest Polo is a similar level of quality but very different material. High-twist merino so light, open, cool, breathable, dry. Much more of a summer piece.
On the long sleeves, it’s similar. The Colhay’s long sleeve is a regular knitwear weight, a cashmere or lambswool sweater. The Dartmoor is much finer (which is neither good nor bad, just different) which makes it smarter but also more luxurious
Cheers, very detailed info and just what I needed clarified.
Hello, Simon!
Would the Dartmoor be wearable in the summer, either standalone or under a light suit or sportcoat? Talking here unlined, porous fabric such as a high-twist or wool-silk-linen blends and the like. I’m preferring this kind of look for the warm summer days when my office encourages sans-tie outfits due to heat, as I don’t quite like the dress shirt and no tie combo, which you support also from what I recall. I either go with a more casual shirt such as an OCBD or a wide stripe, or I wear a knit, or I do separates. But with the knits, while I’ve managed to make it work with my cotton Smedleys and Knizes, both short- and long-sleeved ones (which by the way work better under a jacket than wool ones in my experience), I haven’t really with my wool Smedley Dorset – I have found the wool to get hot (could be due to its dark cocoa / espresso shade). Would the Dartmoor work better here in terms of coolness? I think I remember in one of the early articles on it you praised its wearability as comparable to that of knit cottons, with added benefits of better management of perspiration (logical for wool).
Oh and another question, on wearing the Dartmoor with an under-layer. My skin is relatively pale and sometimes some of my knits are see-through in the unfortunate area on the chest. So I was thinking if that were the case with the Dartmoor I ought to go back to wearing vests or deep V-necks (I used to when younger but not for years). The question here is about the colour – would the white show through the knit, being a stark bright vs the dark navy, and if so should I go for a shade of tan in the undergarment?
Hey Stefan,
The Dartmoor is pretty good with that, but I still wouldn’t recommend it really. You want something like Finest Polo instead, which is wool but cooler than cotton to me and performs better as well. Maybe that’s what you were thinking of?
White wouldn’t show through in an undergarment, no
Hi, Simon. Thanks on the undergarment tip and the point about the Finest Polo. I was thinking more of the Dartmoor as with long sleeves it is more office appropriate for my needs. Is the fabric on the Finest Polo notably thinner/lighter than on the Dartmoor?
Less that it’s thinner or lighter, more that it’s woven more openly and is a high-twist merino rather than a superfine cashmere-like one. They are meant for different weather to each other really
I see, thanks! I get the cashmere-like explanation, it indeed is so, best way to explain it. I am generally bad in explaining fabric properties – to me fine always meant thin and superfine even more so, but it is actually the twist that makes it thin, no? And the fineness is the actual tactile feel of being soft and smooth? Am I getting this right?
The difference is mostly between yarns and the fabric that’s made out of them. Fine and superfine means the yarn itself usually, not the fabric.
The twisted yarn is actually thicker, but because the weave created by it is more open, the result is a material that is lighter in weight and more breathable.
The Guide to Cloth is worth a browse through if some of these things are confusing
I just received my Dartmoor Sweater today and I love how it fits. I was curious if the Dartmoor also uses the 37 gauge frames like the finest polo shirt and crew neck, does it?
Also, the Dartmoor’s collar fits me better in comparison to the finest polo. I’m able to close the second and third button much easily without any pulling across the collar bone. (I’m leaving this comment here just as an observation so that it might come in handy as you develop the next iterations of the Finest Polo).
Hey Vidit,
Lovely to hear, thank you for letting me know.
Yes it does use the same gauge frames.
Thank you, that is interesting to know and I’ll certainly look into it.