Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...

September 23rd 2013

These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of fops and costume drama. Mi...

Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...

Match in comments:
much obliged Simon. A...

StyleSeptember 23rd 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

July 11th 2013

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a defini...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

Match in comments:
Simon wrote: "Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a definite style: I would put Edward Sexton,(...)" In the BBC series on Savile Row (Style Genius) Edward Sexton himself says: "I have not moved to ...

Casual clothingJuly 11th 2013

Jacket and trouser colours, Rubinacci

March 1st 2013

The second part of the feature that the Spanish version of How to Spend It ran on me and Luca Rubinacci has just come out. In the article, Luca picks out three Rubinacci outfits that display his unique take on colour and texture – reprodu...

Jacket and trouser colours, Rubinacci

Match in comments:
That's true Raj, this is definitely Spring or Summer clothing....

Jackets - StyleMarch 1st 2013

Profile piece in How to Spend It, Spain

January 25th 2013

The Spanish version of How to Spend It, Fueria de Serie, interviewed me and did a photo shoot when I visited Jose Maria’s Club Aristocrata last year. The piece came out today. Unless your Spanish is a lot better than mine, you won’...

Profile piece in How to Spend It, Spain

Match in comments:
The lead times on things like this are quite long I'm afraid. If Drake's are offering it at Pitti now, it means it will be in the shop this autumn. If you are in doubt about the tie pin, try just using it on woven ties. ...

StyleJanuary 25th 2013

Revisiting Mario Talarico umbrellas, Naples

October 26th 2012

One of the pleasures of revisiting Naples was catching up with friends, such as Mario and Mario Jr at Talarico. My ego has never swelled to the point where I assume such men will remember me, but this does have the nice result that I am frequently an...

Revisiting Mario Talarico umbrellas, Naples

Match in comments:
I don't know I'm afraid, sorry, and they are pretty poor on communication....

Umbrellas and glovesOctober 26th 2012

Postcard from Naples

October 18th 2012

In Naples last week for the Rubinacci new-store party, staying in Casa Rubinacci. Expect plenty of Naples-related posts. Below, my second-oldest pair of shoes, Edward Green Malverns.

Postcard from Naples

Match in comments:
Hermes...

October 18th 2012

Wear a jacket or trousers at the weekend

February 1st 2012

I know a few men who have discovered an interest in clothes in recent years – primarily suits, shirts, ties, good shoes. The working wardrobe, essentially. They know about the canvas in a jacket’s chest; they have established how and why ...

Wear a jacket or trousers at the weekend

Match in comments:
Yep...

Casual clothing - JacketsFebruary 1st 2012

Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton

January 11th 2012

An autumnal outfit this, commissioned a little too late in the summer and then delayed by various factors so that it was ready just before Christmas. Still, on a clear winter’s day with an overcoat it serves very well and it will also do well i...

Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton

Match in comments:
You're right, that is a good rule of thumb. Like most rules I'd consider it for the guidance of wise men and the blind obedience of… less wise men....

StyleJanuary 11th 2012

Sartoria Vergallo: A visit to Varese

December 12th 2011

There are a few provincial bespoke tailors in the UK, but not many. Italy has more, though again far fewer than there used to be. The advantage of a provincial tailor is normally a quiet preservation of tradition; and price. While in Italy a couple o...

Sartoria Vergallo: A visit to Varese

Match in comments:
Lots of things - slightly different curve and opening to the fronts, lapel line, shoulder size. In the end, it's a soft jacket that's great in its own right, but don't get it if you want the Neapolitan cut specifically...

December 12th 2011

Fare well Michael Drake

August 10th 2011

Nice, isn’t it? That’s the view from the pool on the roof of Shoreditch House, where Michael Drake and I had lunch earlier today. The club and its sister outfit, Soho House, were of course in the news a couple of weeks ago for banning tie...

Fare well Michael Drake

Match in comments:
Sky blue!? Not purple? While I'm sure Drake's will remain phenomenal. It won't, for me, be quite the same without Michael. Big suede shoes to fill....

ShoesAugust 10th 2011

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 6: Finished article

August 8th 2011

The Rubinacci jacket is back, and feeling pretty good. Having been worn once, all day today, I don’t feel it’s too early to say that this is the most comfortable bespoke jacket I’ve ever worn. That might not be surprising, given tha...

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 6: Finished article

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It was a vintage piece Rubinacci had - worth asking them, but otherwise it might not be available...

Jackets - August 8th 2011

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 5: Naples

July 20th 2011

I was in Naples this week, to see Kiton, Rubinacci, Marinella, Attolini and Tavarico among others. It was a wonderful if sweltering way to learn more about Neapolitan style and tailoring. Serves me right for going in July. First off, my second fittin...

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 5: Naples

Match in comments:
There are basting stitches there, yes. But they are not to attach the lining, if only because there will be no lining in the back! The jacket will be half lined. At this fitting stage the lining on the too foreparts was ...

JacketsJuly 20th 2011

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 4: first fitting

June 22nd 2011

First fitting for the Rubinacci cashmere jacket, with Mariano. A fair few adjustments at this, basted stage. Dropping right shoulder slightly, shortening left sleeve (though the sleeves were a better length than any other tailor has got them first ti...

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 4: first fitting

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This looks sooo comfy and classy!...

JacketsJune 22nd 2011

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 3: Measuring

June 15th 2011

Following on from the previous two posts in the Rubinacci series, on cloth and style, this week runs through the measuring and opinions on tailoring as a whole. The biggest difference between Rubinacci and other, English tailors that have featured in...

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 3: Measuring

Match in comments:
Wow, nice blast from the past - no I've never seen that, though things have changed at Huntsman once or twice since this article, so maybe they were experimenting with it more at one point...

JacketsJune 15th 2011

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 2: Style

June 8th 2011

I was interested in the Rubinacci vintage cloth for my jacket (see previous post here) but wanted something a little more substantial than the French linen. This is England after all. In particular, I thought something with a pattern akin to a Donega...

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 2: Style

Match in comments:
Hi Simon, I looked around for a suitable article to bring this up. Hope this fits the bill. Considering getting one of Rampley & Co.s fine art silk linings for a double breasted blazer size in a heavyweight and somew...

JacketsJune 8th 2011

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 1: Cloth

June 1st 2011

The next series to feature on Permanent Style will look at the making of a cashmere jacket at Neapolitan tailor Rubinacci, based on interviews and fittings with Mariano and Luca in London and a visit to the Naples workrooms to see it being made. For ...

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 1: Cloth

Match in comments:
To be honest John, I find it funny that you can associate jeans with things like expertise or being a gentleman. It's such an oddly narrow view of the world....

JacketsJune 1st 2011

Grey and blue – the classic combination

March 28th 2011

I get a lot of requests for practical advice on suit/shirt/tie combinations, so I’m going to try and drop a few more in regularly over the next few months. This is a shot Andy Barnham took of me recently as stock shot for Stephen Haughton&a...

Grey and blue – the classic combination

Match in comments:
Thanks Simon. Best wishes, Andrew...

StyleMarch 28th 2011

Interview: Mariano Rubinacci

August 6th 2010

For some, largely those of Neapolitan extraction or who had heard of the brand five years ago, Rubinacci is a bespoke tailor. For others, mostly followers of The Sartorialist and the Cult of Luca, it is a readymade boutique stocking the knitted ties,...

Interview: Mariano Rubinacci

Match in comments:
Yup. I was always taught that was the classic arrangement - so you get all colours involved. Just pinch the middle, fold in half and stuff. Only small disadvantage is the handkerchief can slip down, being rather shorter ...

August 6th 2010