Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...
These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael ( Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of fops and costume drama. Mi...
Me in Dartmoor; Michael in suede; Thomas joins G&...
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much obliged Simon. A...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1
There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a defini...
The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1
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Simon wrote: "Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a definite style: I would put Edward Sexton,(...)" In the BBC series on Savile Row (Style Genius) Edward Sexton himself says: "I have not moved to ...
Jacket and trouser colours, Rubinacci
The second part of the feature that the Spanish version of How to Spend It ran on me and Luca Rubinacci has just come out. In the article, Luca picks out three Rubinacci outfits that display his unique take on colour and texture – reprodu...
Jacket and trouser colours, Rubinacci
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That's true Raj, this is definitely Spring or Summer clothing....
Profile piece in How to Spend It, Spain
The Spanish version of How to Spend It, Fueria de Serie, interviewed me and did a photo shoot when I visited Jose Maria’s Club Aristocrata last year. The piece came out today. Unless your Spanish is a lot better than mine, you won’...
Profile piece in How to Spend It, Spain
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The lead times on things like this are quite long I'm afraid. If Drake's are offering it at Pitti now, it means it will be in the shop this autumn. If you are in doubt about the tie pin, try just using it on woven ties. ...
Revisiting Mario Talarico umbrellas, Naples
One of the pleasures of revisiting Naples was catching up with friends, such as Mario and Mario Jr at Talarico. My ego has never swelled to the point where I assume such men will remember me, but this does have the nice result that I am frequently an...
Revisiting Mario Talarico umbrellas, Naples
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I don't know I'm afraid, sorry, and they are pretty poor on communication....
Postcard from Naples
In Naples last week for the Rubinacci new-store party, staying in Casa Rubinacci. Expect plenty of Naples-related posts. Below, my second-oldest pair of shoes, Edward Green Malverns.
Postcard from Naples
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Hermes...
Wear a jacket or trousers at the weekend
I know a few men who have discovered an interest in clothes in recent years – primarily suits, shirts, ties, good shoes. The working wardrobe, essentially. They know about the canvas in a jacket’s chest; they have established how and why ...
Wear a jacket or trousers at the weekend
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Yep...
Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton
An autumnal outfit this, commissioned a little too late in the summer and then delayed by various factors so that it was ready just before Christmas. Still, on a clear winter’s day with an overcoat it serves very well and it will also do well i...
Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton
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You're right, that is a good rule of thumb. Like most rules I'd consider it for the guidance of wise men and the blind obedience of… less wise men....
Sartoria Vergallo: A visit to Varese
There are a few provincial bespoke tailors in the UK, but not many. Italy has more, though again far fewer than there used to be. The advantage of a provincial tailor is normally a quiet preservation of tradition; and price. While in Italy a couple o...
Sartoria Vergallo: A visit to Varese
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Lots of things - slightly different curve and opening to the fronts, lapel line, shoulder size. In the end, it's a soft jacket that's great in its own right, but don't get it if you want the Neapolitan cut specifically...
Fare well Michael Drake
Nice, isn’t it? That’s the view from the pool on the roof of Shoreditch House, where Michael Drake and I had lunch earlier today. The club and its sister outfit, Soho House, were of course in the news a couple of weeks ago for banning tie...
Fare well Michael Drake
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Sky blue!? Not purple? While I'm sure Drake's will remain phenomenal. It won't, for me, be quite the same without Michael. Big suede shoes to fill....
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 6: Finished article
The Rubinacci jacket is back, and feeling pretty good. Having been worn once, all day today, I don’t feel it’s too early to say that this is the most comfortable bespoke jacket I’ve ever worn. That might not be surprising, given tha...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 6: Finished article
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It was a vintage piece Rubinacci had - worth asking them, but otherwise it might not be available...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 5: Naples
I was in Naples this week, to see Kiton, Rubinacci, Marinella, Attolini and Tavarico among others. It was a wonderful if sweltering way to learn more about Neapolitan style and tailoring. Serves me right for going in July. First off, my second fittin...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 5: Naples
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There are basting stitches there, yes. But they are not to attach the lining, if only because there will be no lining in the back! The jacket will be half lined. At this fitting stage the lining on the too foreparts was ...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 4: first fitting
First fitting for the Rubinacci cashmere jacket, with Mariano. A fair few adjustments at this, basted stage. Dropping right shoulder slightly, shortening left sleeve (though the sleeves were a better length than any other tailor has got them first ti...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 4: first fitting
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This looks sooo comfy and classy!...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 3: Measuring
Following on from the previous two posts in the Rubinacci series, on cloth and style, this week runs through the measuring and opinions on tailoring as a whole. The biggest difference between Rubinacci and other, English tailors that have featured in...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 3: Measuring
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Wow, nice blast from the past - no I've never seen that, though things have changed at Huntsman once or twice since this article, so maybe they were experimenting with it more at one point...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 2: Style
I was interested in the Rubinacci vintage cloth for my jacket (see previous post here) but wanted something a little more substantial than the French linen. This is England after all. In particular, I thought something with a pattern akin to a Donega...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 2: Style
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Hi Simon, I looked around for a suitable article to bring this up. Hope this fits the bill. Considering getting one of Rampley & Co.s fine art silk linings for a double breasted blazer size in a heavyweight and somew...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 1: Cloth
The next series to feature on Permanent Style will look at the making of a cashmere jacket at Neapolitan tailor Rubinacci, based on interviews and fittings with Mariano and Luca in London and a visit to the Naples workrooms to see it being made. For ...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 1: Cloth
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To be honest John, I find it funny that you can associate jeans with things like expertise or being a gentleman. It's such an oddly narrow view of the world....
Grey and blue – the classic combination
I get a lot of requests for practical advice on suit/shirt/tie combinations, so I’m going to try and drop a few more in regularly over the next few months. This is a shot Andy Barnham took of me recently as stock shot for Stephen Haughton&a...
Grey and blue – the classic combination
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Thanks Simon. Best wishes, Andrew...
Interview: Mariano Rubinacci
For some, largely those of Neapolitan extraction or who had heard of the brand five years ago, Rubinacci is a bespoke tailor. For others, mostly followers of The Sartorialist and the Cult of Luca, it is a readymade boutique stocking the knitted ties,...
Interview: Mariano Rubinacci
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Yup. I was always taught that was the classic arrangement - so you get all colours involved. Just pinch the middle, fold in half and stuff. Only small disadvantage is the handkerchief can slip down, being rather shorter ...
