cashmere jacket bespoke2

  
This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material.

When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great, in:

But if this is a smart office, where we’re replacing grey and navy suits, then the next colour options – primarily brown and green – can be a little too rustic. 

Even muted browns and greens – like my Rubinacci donegal or Solito escorial – might not be smart enough. It’s just hard for these essentially country colours to be formal. 
  

Elia Caliendo cashmere jacket44

   
Oatmeal, or beige, is easier. If this colour has any associations, it is with the linens of summer. But the texture of the cashmere, and some cream in the weave, elevate it above those casual, wrinkled jackets and make it look much more luxurious. 

Indeed, this biscuity tone might even be more useful than grey – because it can go with grey itself. 

The big issue with grey jackets is they can’t be worn with grey flannel in the winter, or grey fresco in the summer. Oatmeal doesn’t have that problem. 
  

Elia Caliendo cashmere jacket bespoke copy

  
The cloth is Loro Piana 499019 from the cashmere jacketings bunch. It is 320 grams (11 ounces) and 85% cashmere, 15% Super-170s wool. The latter gives it noticeably more body without making it feel any less soft.

The jacket was made by Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo, and it is worn with:

Pictures taken in the atelier of Maison Bourgeat glasses, Paris.  
  
Images: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man

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Kev Fidler

Simon, would you advocate this colour/tone as a preferable choice above grey for a first choice of jacket material? I am thinking of making a first step into bespoke jackets particular for the colder months and my initial thoughts were centred a grey herringbone or cashmere. Given their limitations with grey trousers I wonder if this colour or something similar might not be a better idea. (I tend not to wear jeans often but prefer grey flannel or other colours in winter.)

Anonymous

You said somewhere that gray doesn’t work quite as well in linen. Do you really think that’s true, and is it something that could be extended to summer jackets in general?

Kev Fidler

Thanks, Simon. Probably start with a nice grey and what a great excuse to experiment with trousers.

Anonymous

One of your best, beautiful fabric and cut. Nicely photographed as well.

An Italian in London

It is a great piece. Lovely jacket, really..

Can I ask how much D’Avino charged you for it?

An Italian in London

Yes, I did. Sorry for the confusion, I haven’t had enough coffee this morning..

Anonymous

That is a fantastic looking jacket and looks great on you! I almost had made it the same cloth and now I’ve seen someone actually style it, I may still take the leap. I think I would have styled it exactly as you have! Very nice indeed. If you don’t mind, could you please share what Elia charges for this jacket? On an aside, the colours in the photos don’t do the garments justice – the trousers look almost grey but it could be that my monitor needs colour calibration!

Rabster

Beautiful colour but doesn’t skin tone come more in to play with a colour like this ?
I’m thinking President Obama and the tan suit he wore and got more coverage then anything he said at a press conference .

John

Hi Simon,
Thank you for this very interesting post. I think we are all going to reckon that this is a lovely outfit! Yet no matter how many posts you are going to dedicate to this specific area of menswear, the whole topic is going to remain puzzling, I’m afraid.
For instance, if I had no idea of the fabrics involved in this outfit, I would have thougt of it as having been made for Spring or Summer. Indeed, anyhow I associate light colors with SS and dark ones with AW.
And since I rather wear jackets more often than not, for Winter, for instance, beyond navy, brown and green are the colors I normally consider, expecting of course reaching the highest level of smartness achievable with those colors.
Now you say in this post that there is no way to eschew their countrified bent.
Thus my question: isn’t possible to escape this brown-green country association by resorting to appopriate accessories such as ties, color and fabric of shirts, trousers and last but not least shoes?
Unfortunately, I couldn’t retrieve pics of yourself posted in the past to make the case for the suitability and smartness of brown and green jackets. But they do exist.
John

Lisbon Clubman

I agree with you Simon! And congratulations for the new sports jacket: elegant cut and oatmeal goes perfect for the semi-formal occasions!

John

I wonder then if it wouldn’t be fairly helpful to distinguish formality from smartness. Take a look, for instance, at this pic where you stand beside Tommaso. In terms of formality, your entire outfit is perhaps less formal than Tommaso’s. But it is surely as smart as his.
http://www.soletopia.com/2014/01/simon-crompton-satoria/
Presumably, there is a sliding scale of formality in the realm of jackets, starting I guess with navy Blazer, even though I’ve never seen its contours.

John

Thank you for this clarification, Simon. I now fully understand the point you are making in this post.

David

To digress.
Doubtless many of you will have now taken delivery of the latest edition of the ‘Rake’ and are horrified that they have devoted multiple pages promoting the merits of Oxford Bags. What on earth is going on with that publication ? What will we have next, Harry Styles on the cover?
Bizarre that attempts at quality men’s style publications always end in tears !

Ian

I agree with David’s digression and I’m grateful someone has said something. I have always looked forward to The Rake but have found it has gone downhill in the last 6 months. Please Simon intervene and bring it back to its former glory

Nick Inkster

Sorry, but for me this colour has no place in a work wardrobe, however casual the environment. Oatmeal/biscuit is just not a proper northern European shade, and I’m not sure it would be seen in the wardrobe of a French, Italian, Portuguese or Spanish chap either. Chaqun a son gout etc…..

Lee

re the Rake. have not renewed my subscription. def not the same magazine i used to look forward to receiving

Peter

Couldn’t agree more with you. I started buying the Take for professional purposes but if they don’t sort out the rubbish they have published over the last two editions I for one am going to cancel my subscription.

BespokeNYC

Lovely jacket Simon. What materials would you recommend for a summer equivalent? Pure cotton or linen always seem too wrinkly but would a blend wear cool enough?

Anonymous

I like your thinking but I would have gone for something leaning more towards cream rather than brown. The other option is Armani ‘greige’ a mixture of beige and grey. However everything you say re. colour (green/brown/grey) is correct. Mixing neutral tones such as grey can be difficult, particularly as menswear utilises so few colours for trousers (beige/brown, grey, blue, green). Out of interest how does the Oatmeal match up with Blue and Black?

Bjorn

Fantastic!! This is my next item to have made.

David Craggs

Simon,
I think the jacket looks fine albeit I don’t like patch breast pockets – for me they always look wrong.
On another but aligned subject, I’d love you to do a piece on what I would describe as the louche suit, The sort of suit that would be worn by a Jazz singer or an artist or somebody who works in the creative industries or, who is simply too rich to care.
A suit which could be worn for every aspect of everyday life with the exception of the formal office environment.
One of my favourite style icons is Charlie Watts and I’m not sure he’s ever been near an office in his life unless it was under duress.

David

I don’t agree that it’s a case of “dressing up”.
It’s actually the reverse and is often a real study in the choice of cloth / pattern and adjusting small details to make the suit look more relaxed.
When you look at how Charlie Watts wears C&M or how Ferry wears A&S they are great examples of this.
A cord suit is a no brainer because the cloth virtually does it for you but move into other fabrics and patterns and that louche look requires more studying.

Christopher

David’d comments could be made about me! I love tailoring and am a self employed creative (sadly being too rich to care is not one of my problems). Green cord was my solution; great colour against pale flesh. I love cord suits; the chest on yours Simon has amazing shape.
Bryan Ferry and Hugh Grant are two others who like louche cord.
Lucian Freud’s scarf is possibly too idiosyncratic for others to pull off but nailed louche for me.

Mac

Hi Simon
I’ve just had a navy hopsack SB jacket made by Elia after your recommendation and I’m really pleased with it, thank you!
I’m thinking about having this oatmeal jacket as my next commission, how would this jacket look with denim such as the Levis Kaihara?

Michael

“The big issue with grey jackets is they can’t be worn with grey flannel in the winter or grey fresco in the summer..” I don’t like absolute statements like this particularly regarding clothes and find it a bit surprising to find it here – why do you think one can’t wear different shades or textures of grey together in a jacket and trousers combination?

Anonymous

Simon
do you have any crap clothes? What do you wear whilst mucking about in the garden, or equivalent of?

twitter_NicoStromback

Simon, that lapel there is close to perfection. It has a nice thickness to it that is gives a very masculine appearance even though the jacket is of casual make. This style is typical of Elia I presume.

David Moss

The length of jackets may be deserving of comment please. Do you wear a (fairly formal, structured) jacket where the sleeve is longer than the body, and your backside is poking out beneath the ‘skirt’ (to use an old description)?!

BTW the length of your oatmeal jacket looks spot on, but I’d prefer the sleeves a fraction shorter.

Matt

I think this is one of my favourites, it looks incredibly comfortable…is there much structure in the chest and shoulders, or is it completely unlined? If the latter, he’s done a very clean chest, which is not always easy..

John

While watching again your outfit, it dawned on me that you have indeed paired this jacket with green trousers. To me it looks really fine. But why would the green color stop shouting for country in this specific combo?
To stick to the level of formality you have in mind here – due to the environment – while maintaining a high level of smatness, I wonder whether you wouldn’t achieve both if the jacket were just paired with mid grey, say, flanel.

Mick Shannon

Nice. I’m always wondering what an alternative color to blue is. And while gray is the obvious choice it is always a little limiting. One tailor I respect said the most versatile travel blazer for the cooler months was black cashmere. His argument is that it could be dressed down during the day and dressed up in the evenings and could be paired with just about any shade of gray trousers. But a summer alternative is perhaps a little harder. Does one stick with blue and change the weave or pick a pattern–a window pane, for example? This same tailor suggested a dark green worsted. Its association with golf notwithstanding, I think it’s a great idea.

Mick Shannon

Both black and green blazers were meant to be worn with gray trousers. The green, I would imagine, could also be worn with a beige.

These answers were given to my pestering about a blue blazer substitute. Which sort of begs the question: what is it about blue and gray that makes is such a hard and fast combination? What would be so odd about wearing blue trousers with a gray blazer?

Cheers!

Mick Shannon

Simon,
I agree; indeed, I would place on top of my list of sartorial quandaries. An article devoted to it would, I’m sure, garner a lot of interest. I frame the issue this way:
I do not have to wear suits to work even though I work in finance and see a lot of clients. My “go to” outfit is blue blazer paired with grey trousers. In the summer months I will often wear cream trousers (although more for dressy social events than when visiting clients). In the cooler months the options expand: tweeds and flannels galore. But in the warmer months what really are the choices beyond the blue and gray? Sure, there are some nice window panes. But let’s say we were sticking with solids–where do go? By implication you dismiss the inverse (gray blazer, blue trousers) and dark green doesn’t seem to have tickled your fancy (I will post a picture of my the blazer when it arrives shortly). As always, your thoughts would be most welcome!

John

Hi,
Black blazer? Dark green .. worsted? Honestly, these are not colors you should be considereing for what you seem to have in mind. Take a look at past posts here. You could manage to come up with better ideas.

Chris Shaw

Simon-your style is inspiring and very detailed really appreciate your knowledge and recommendations.

What is your opinion on Bontoni shoes?

Regards
Chris Shaw

Cuff inquirer

Dear Simon, please advise me what amount of shirt cuff should show for tweed jacket sleeves?
My RTW 4OR 3-buttones must be shortened; my shirt sleeve is 31″; the seamstress claims now after shortening only three buttons have room after shortening and she says the distance from shortened tweed jacket sleeve end to first button end cannot be 4cm, maybe maximum 3 1/2 cm. Please advise!

Cuff inquirer

PS: My inquiries to tweed jacket sleeve length and its relation to visible shirt cuff are in contrast to your lightweight summer cashmere jacket above with 1 sleeve button and no shirt cuff visible when arm held straight.

Cuff inquirer

Your Caliendo tweed jacket shows no shirt cuff!? – Where should the tweed jacket sleeve end?

Mac

Hi Simon
Can this be considered an all year round jacket or is it too warm for the hottest weather?

Zubair Hossain

Hello Simon! I greatly enjoy your blog and I’ve learnt loads from it. I’ve always had an interest in tailored clothing and this blog explores tailoring like no other.
I’ve had a jacket made last year, and since I forgot to mention it, my odd jacket doesn’t have swelled edges. So, I was wondering if this is something that can be done later? Thank you in advance for your advice and time!

Matt

I notice that the boutonniere hole has been cut in the same keyhole fashion as the buttonholes. Is that by accident or design? I thought the use of keyhole boutonnieres was solely restricted to the more ‘affordable’ end of ready to wear?

Winot

I’ve noticed also that Elia doesn’t put a thread at the back of the lapel for the flower stem. Annoying omission, and annoying that I always forget to ask for one.

Kane

Simon – congrats. This jacket is great. Looks effortlessly elegant.

This prompted a few thoughts – how do you describe/define your own personal style? I just noticed the Sexton picture you posted on Instagram. It seems to be the diametrical opposite to this wonderful jacket. All great ensembles but they seem so different. Would be grateful on your views on wardrobe building this way – do you think it’s better to focus on one consistent “style” or to include as many as possible.

Bertie Wooster

Hello Simon apologies if my question is covered elsewhere but I looked and am still struggling hence asking

I can see that this oatmeal colour is pretty versatile and you can wear many trousers with it. I think you can also wear many trousers with an odd brown or green jacket

However, I am struggling with a lighter grey jacket like in your Caliendo denim post, or a navy jacket. Are they really that versatile to be the top 2 odd jacket colours?

What are the trouser colours you can wear with them? Are we basically stuck with cream or charcoal trousers for mid grey jackets? Or navy chinos, cream or light grey trousers for navy jackets. I am not sure brown trousers would look as great

http://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/03/trouser-colours-to-wear-with-odd-jackets.html#respond

Bertie Wooster

That’s great thanks!

Rob Grant

Beat you to it Simon! The boys at Patrick Johnson in Melbourne made this exact jacket for me in precisely this cloth and in the same cut about a year ago. It is quarter lined with very little padding and three patch.

I love it with dark green and brown cords and with a hefty creamish cotton. Unlike you I do wear it with grey flannel which seems to lend a little formality to it.

We also appear to both have in the works a grey cashmere herringbone. Again, mine mimics yours in vut and colour but the cloth is Loro Piano.

I’ll say hi to them for you on my next – of far too many – visit.

Your website remains a precious resource to me, perhaps because I seem to have so much in common with what is featured on it.

Best

Rob

Rob Grant

Simon, I think it is your grey cashmere which has already been made I was referring to…I have one in the same colour and style in cashmere being made up by P Johnston. Naturally they are MTM but I have a lot from them and have always been delighted with their fit.
On the point about wearing a grey odd jacket with grey pants, I do this quite a lot – and rarely with charcoal pants…more mid grey pants, lighter grey cashmere jacket.
There is an elderly Japanese guy at Pitti who I think is a master in subtlety. He pairs a grey herringbone jacket with flannel pants in the same shade. Only up close can you see its not a suit. This is of course unconventional but I like it – a departure from the view that there must always be strong contrast between odd pants and jackets. Just a different approach I guess.
All the best.
Rob.

Mac

Hello Simon

I’ve been following your site since it started. After having a very bad bespoke experience with Thom Sweeney I had a jacket made by Elia Caliendo exactly the same style and make as the SB’s you’ve had made and he has done a superb job for me too.
I’ve also recently had an SB made by Solito. Could you tell me the difference in their styles and which you prefer?

Mac

Hi Simon
Thanks for the reply. I’ve found the Solito jacket to be shorter and much closer fitting.
Is this your experience as well? Which maker has the best looking and fitting jacket out of the two in your opinion?

Mac

Hi Simon
One thing has been bugging me about my hopsack jacket from Elia, it probably seems silly to you but here goes………..The fit is spot on, when I have my arms at my sides in the usual instagram pose (!) the sleeve head where the spalla camicia folders are, sits perfectly. Is this supposed to deform and ‘kink’ when for example you raise your arms etc? It would be very helpful if you had a video or images of the jackets and how they change when you move.

Mac

Thank you Simon. I hope you didn’t think that was too idiotic a question, I’ve come to sartorial appreciation a little later than most and many of the examples of good fit are touted on instagram and other social media sites. Obviously most are staged and you never see movement so it’s tough to know what is ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ in terms of fit.

Mac

Hi Simon
Sorry to keep asking you the same question but I need you to put my mind at ease: I’ve had two SB jackets made by Elia and one by Luigi Solito. I love Elia and his work but I did notice a difference between the two. On their recent visit to London I let Luigi and Luca examine my Caliendo navy hopsack SB. Luigi said that it was very well made with a very clean chest and back but that it was in his opinion very old fashioned and typically neapolitan, something that his father would make as a matter of course, but he didn’t like it at all with all due respect to Elia. Luca added that luigi also made higher armholes and longer roll and position of lapels. Do you agree with this assessment? I thought Elia made a really superb jacket but Luigi has confused me a little.

Mac

Hi Simon

Do you think Elia makes the armholes high enough so that there is little distortion in the body of the jacket when making big arm movements? By the way, when will you be doing an article on the pitti suit Elia made for you? Thank you for all your help Simon, yours is by far the most useful, thoughtful and honest blog on the internet.

Mac

Thank you for taking the time and trouble to answer my rather nitpicking questions Simon!
Best wishes

Greg

Hi Simon, what is the weight of the fabric used for the trousers ?

CA

Hi Simon, Great insight and very informative!

Just wanted to know your thoughts on what fabric would be good for an “all around” versatile sports jacket. I am thinking of getting navy and grey but I want a fabric that will go well with all of the following: (i) wool suit trousers (ii) jeans, (iii) cream chinos, (iv) mid grey flannel trousers etc.

I know some people who have navy sports jackets but they are in various fabrics depending on the season (i.e. linen for summer, tweed, flannel for winter etc.). I’m essentially looking for a fabric that I can match with the various aforementioned trousers.

Thanks Simon!

Mac

Hi Simon

I’ve had Elia make me a few jackets but I am now looking for a navy cashmere jacket for my next bespoke piece, something as versatile as your navy solito jacket. Something to be dressed up or down, with and without a tie and worn mostly with different shades of grey, green and cream trousers (but not denim!) What shade would be best, lighter or darker for it to be most versatile?

Mac

Hi Simon
I’ve had a jacket made in 400g tweed, a beautiful glen check. Do you think a jacket of this weight could be used in autumn and spring or is it approaching the heaviness of a coat? Also what does this weight do for drape and fitting?

Kashif

Hi Simon,

I just re-read this post since I am getting a jacket made in oatmeal a decision which has been largely inspired by your post! Cloth I have chosen is Loro Piana 368645 (330 gr 100% cashmere) from their Woolen Jackets bunch). Question I wanted to ask was – which colour did you choose for the body lining? I am thinking of going with dark brown for the body lining – the buttons will also be dark brown horn.

Many thanks,

Kashif

Kashif

Great, many thanks!

Patrick Chong

Hi Simon, I’m a regular reader of your fantastic site and as a result will be finally biting the bullet by having a jacket made with Elia Caliendo. I’m really quite inexperienced with menswear, have certainly never had anything bespoke before, so am quite nervous about getting this significant decision ‘right’!

I’m after a non-navy jacket made in either a tweed or cashmere, to wear with jeans/grey flannels/ olive chinos for as much of the year as possible. I am really keen on your grey/brown jackets like this one and the Permanent Style Tweed… Is there a particular couple of choices of brown/grey donegal cashmere that you would recommend? Inspired to ask you by other readers’ comments (Kashif, KC) also looking for a jacket alternative to navy.

Secondly – How important is a dark/south asian skin tone in making this sort of choice (I have heard that oatmeal beige makes less sense for those with darker skin?). As with everyone on here, I’m really grateful for your advice and honesty in sharing all your experience on here (good and bad!)

Patrick Chong

Thanks Simon, really helpful advice. Are there any other specific Donegal cashmeres or tweeds in this sort of grey/brown palette that you might recommend readers to opt for? I wondered if you keep a selection in mind. In your jacketing post you mention how hard it is for the inexperienced to visualise the final article from the small swatches – I’m certainly suffering that!

Patrick Chong

Thanks Simon I’ll have a look. What’s your opinion on a marled textured appearance? Might this help make a piece more urban/modern or suitable for younger men?

JJ.

Hi Simón,

I am considering a similar jacket and my taylor offers me Sherrykash, tan birds eye with a mix of 90% wool and 10% cashmere. Would it be a nice alternative?.

Thanks in advance.

Anonymous

Hi Simon,
Having the basics covered (and some “mistakes” as well), I am looking at commissioning my next odd jacket. I love the idea of oatmeal, but previously had thought about something more similar to the brown/rusty colour, similar to your Caliendo jacket. Overall, i would like to know whether which you wear more often, which is more versatile? My usual trousers are grey and rather earthy tones, together with blue.

Also, what is your opinion on cacciopoli cloth, which I am eyeing for the jacket above (320gr. Donegal cloth), if I may ask?

(Would love to attach a pic of the swatch I am considering)

Wes WP

Why can’t gray jackets be worn with gray trousers? Is it a “false suit” issue, or something else?

Andrew Walker

Lovely article and jacket. Simon, what is your go-to trouser colour(s) for a grey jacket? Many thanks,

Jose

do you would recommend it for rainy days with temperatures from 16 degrees to 20 celsius a brown cashmere wool jacket

thanks

Anonymous

Simon, I just have a question. You say a gray sports jacket cannot be worn with gray flannels, but does that hold true if the jacket is light gray and the trousers mid-gray?

Philip Hopkins

Simon-
Sorry, late to the party on this one. Your jacket here was made by Neapolitan tailor Caliendo, but the shoulder doesn’t show that traditional Neapolitan bunching and extra fabric that makes the giacca alla camicia, if I’m getting the phrase right. What am I missing?
Phil

Anon

Hi Simon,

Firstly just want to say that I am a massive fan of your website and have been following it closely for a few years now.

I am really interested in commissioning an oatmeal jacket but I am not sure of which material I should go for. Ideally I would like to wear the jacket in the office and would want something not too casual. Would a wool/silk/linen with a loose weave be too casual? Or should I go for something like a cashmere or flannel.

I would like to thank you in advance Simon!

Anon

Thanks Simon for your kind help.

Will take your suggestion into consideration.

Bernie

Hi Simon,

I’ve been combing through your entire look book looking at the different Neapolitan shoulder expressions and noticed that there each tailor has their own interpretation of the Neapolitan shoulder.

My favorite would be the shoulders from Elia Caliendo – unlike most Neapolitan tailors, he doesn’t embellish the shoulder with puckering and pleats. Instead, he does a true shirt shoulder construction with a visible shoulder seam that truly looks just like a dress shirt shoulder. I, like many others, dislike the pleated sleevehead + rollino effect look as I feel it is too flashy.

I read a piece from manton here: https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/threads/neapolitan-shoulder-explained.49543/

In the post, he says that a pleated sleevehead and a shirt shoulder construction can be mutually exclusive and are two separate things. For people who like a neater look, Manton says that it is possible to retain the fullness through pressing open the shoulder seam.

Am I correct to say that Elia employs a shirt shoulder method, and not a pleated sleevehead? There might be very subtle wrinkling but definitely nowhere as showy as other tailors I’ve seen.

I’d like to hear your thoughts on the Neaplitan shoulder, thank you!

Bernie

Hi Simon,

Looking forward to the continuation of your Tailors Style series as I’d enjoy a much more in-depth and detailed look at shoulder expression and other nuances.

For Elia, how would you describe his shoulders? For me, I don’t like the pleating and puckering in the shoulder seam but quite like the subtle and natural wrinkling in the sleevehead/bicep area. Your caliendo jackets seem to achieve fulllness in a different way compared to the pleated sleevehead approach. They seem so natural yet soft with fullness.

I’m about to commission a bespoke jacket and I’d like to know Elia’s shoulder expression so I can hopefully emulate it, thanks!

Bernie

To achieve that natural, full look, does Elia press open the interior shoulder seam at the top to smooth out potential puckering and prevent roping? I read that if he presses open the seam to smooth out the shoulder, the fullness and excess cloth is forced down into the upper arm/bicep area. I would quite like that effect, as you’ve pointed out many times that bigger sleeves makes you look more masculine (your blue star AS jacket is the best example in my humble opinion). Is this effect of transferring fullness what you meant by working the fullness underneath the sleevehead?

In my eyes, his shoulder is the closest to a true shirt shoulder sans pleated sleevehead out of any other Neapolitan tailors you’ve used. How he manages to still incorporate fullness in a natural way is just miraculous to me, and I truly respect his work. I read that such a construction requires a top stitch, hence why you see visible pick stitching close to the seam on Elia’s shoulders. I’ve seen tailors actually emphasize that topstich with a swelled edge for stylistic effect as well. Whether it was done via machine or hand does impact how pronounced it is.

Manton says that the tell-tale sign of a spalla camicia is that there appears to be a ridge on the shoulder side…Because there are three layers of cloth on the shoulder side but only one on the sleeve side. This creates the fluting or rainfall effect, which is separate and distinct from the puckering from excess fullness. Is that correct?

Lastly, Elia uses no padding/wadding in the shoulders, right? Or does he use a little at the edge to create a slightly extended shoulder to allow a little more fullness (just like Saman Amel did for your LP MTM jacket)?

Thank you for answering my barrage of questions – ever since I’ve read your writing I’ve gone from buying off the rack at SuitSupply to planning a bespoke commission. I’m 24 as well, the same age you embarked on your sartorial journey. Thank you for your guidance, I really appreciate it!

PS – looking forward to receiving my first ever purchase from the PS Store – my first Finest Knitwear crewneck!

Bernie

Thank you for the explanation, Simon.

Lastly, in terms of canvas, do Neapolitan tailors like Elia use a special lightweight canvas in a certain material like wool?

And do they use multiple pieces of canvas or just a single chest canvas? Elia and Dalcuore have a distinctly soft look that is very expressive, which I admire very much.

When I meet my tailor next week, I’ll tell him that I want a classic sleeve with the fullness fed more into the bottom of the sleevehead instead of the top to avoid the puckering/pleating on top that is so prevalent.

Thanks again.

Bernie

Hi Simon,

Thank you for wisdom – I will definitely temper my expectations and keep your words in mind.

Looking forward so much to your coverage of the Neapolitan tailors like Elia in your Tailor style series to get an in-depth look of how the tailoring houses achieve their look and the subtle, yet distinct differences between them.

Guy Graff

The most stunning example of a grey jacket w/trousers is Cary Grant in “To Catch a Thief”. He’s wearing a grey blazer (3 roll 2 if memory is correct) with stone trousers cut rather full together with a white shirt and ascot. Dame, he looks great in that outfit! Scenes shot in South France.

Bernie

Hi Simon,

What are your thoughts on Loro Piana’s Pecora Nera Blazer Fabric: N686030? Thinking about it for my 2nd/3rd SC (already have navy blazer).

It seems to be a mix of grey and beige. In terms of versatility, is it between grey and pale brown or is it less versatile because it is a mix?

Link to bunch: https://hallmadden.com/loro-piana-pecora-nera-blazers/3uhmlkodxc2s1qsfy5d8w4gtoqx5bw

Bernie

Would N6860 fill the grey SC gap or the light oatmeal/biege gap? I’m just looking at Spring/Summer fabrics right now, and prefer no wrinkling, light rumples are acceptable (I’m probably avoiding linen and only looking at wool…I hate when a jacket wrinkles in the elbow area like a dress shirt – what are your thoughts on these two fabrics:

1. Loro Piana Jackets: 647053

Collection: https://hallmadden.com/loro-piana-jackets/ohde0ce47jc02uh2xv81lt6mqa2n79

2. Dugdale Tropicalair: 4603

Link to collection: http://www.dugdalebros.com/tropicalair

Seeing as how you recommend a light sand/oatmeal for the 2nd or 3rd SC, I want to hear your thoughts on these two fabrics to see if they were good candidates, thanks!

Bernie

Hi Simon,

It seems like all your Caliendo pieces have an extended shoulder effect even though they are traditional shirt-shoulders. Heavily reminds me of the extended shoulders on the LP Saman Amel jacket you had in your review. Is it due to padding, and if so, would it be possible to have an identical looking shoulder with no padding?

Bernie

I see now, thank you. Compared to Solito’s bald shoulder, I prefer Elia’s as it looks like a natural shoulder with more softness and creates a better V shape with the slight extension. It is very subtly done. Amazing what a little padding & roping can do when combined with the spalla camicia!

Neil

Hey Simon,
I’ve been coming back to this post for years whilst I get the basics in order… But delighted to say that I finally put the deposit down for my own oatmeal jacket (Drapers bunch).
Very versatile and thinking up all the different trouser combos to pair it with!

Anonymous

Did you go for any chain stitching? What were the smallest details you picked out that may not be obvious in the photos?

For me the archuate stitch, leather patch, and red tag are branding annoyances that detract from the beautiful simplicity of the jeans. It’s a shame they can’t be removed given the “bespoke” tagline.

Are there any bespoke Japanese jean tailors ? I just called the store in the US and got a possibly updated quote of $950. I know they fit well, but yikes. How much is too much?

Thanks – your responses are always appreciated.

Anonymous

Dear Simon,

If you were to commission a cashmere flight jacket, would you pick dark blue (not navy) or light grey herringbone (like your overcoat)?

Cheers

Anonymous

Thank you for the suggestion. For such jacket, would you recommend a midweight cashmere herringbone (300g) or heavy weight cashmere (470g)

Anonymous

Thank you for the input I decided to go with the height weight navy cashmere and would like to heard your thoughts on the following details of the jacket. To me, these are subtle details but at the same time, differentiate it from the RTW flight jackets. The buttons would be in light brown.

– Back belt with button
– Two buttons on each side of the cuff
– Larger collar
– Hip pockets with one button

I would also like to would you prefer zipper / buttons at the front of these type of jacket? On one side, zipper makes the jacket cleaner and looks less like a shirt. On the other hand, buttons make the jacket looks more formal I believe.

Cheers

Anonymous

Do you have an article written about these grey-green trousers Simon? What’s the weight and does H&S still carry it? Would you pick this fabric over a green moleskin like your Calvo de Mora trousers? I’m trying to pick a staple trouser to follow after jeans, chinos, brown moleskin, and grey flannel.

Anonymous

Hi Simon,

There’s a trend right now, especially of shorter Asian guys having lapels with higher buttoning points. The suits look almost Edwardian. I’m thinking of a photo Elia featured on his instagram of Mr. Chew wearing a tobacco linen suit with this lapel style. Elia said that the reason for this look was due to his body/proportions.

Don’t know if you agree, but I think it makes shorter people look even shorter? It also looks more stylized.

Will shorter people who commission bespoke suits inevitably end up with this style due to proportions? Am I missing something??

Gokhan

Hi Simon

I am pushing my tailor to find the same fabric but unfortunately there is no stock anywhere.

Currently, i have no light colour winter jacket (heavy wool) in my wardrobe but after reading this post and your pictures. I am dying for one !

My tailor proposed me a Loro Piana fabric N368756, its not oatmeal but kind of dark beige. I am not hundred percent sure to continue with that since the fabric is not cheap and the total jacket will cost me approx 3-4 k usd. Would you recommend me to wait for one more season ? Joshua fabric is also sold out but on the pics i think is not soft and premium as the Loro piana

Gokhan

Thank you for your prompt return,

Its a 300 gram cashmere fabric, as per i understand its a bit light for a casual winter jacket. I ll keep looking for an alternative

Anonymous

Would be nice to see Caliendo in the style breakdown series of tailors

Rupesh Bhindi

Hi Simon,

As well as the I like the jacket, I was wondering if you have the fabric details of the green flannel trousers you are wearing.

Thanks

Rupesh

Rupesh Bhindi

Hi Simon,

I received quite a lot of fabric samples in flannels and I received the green colour and it is beautiful. My first question is that despite you have mentioned repeatedly that mid-grey is the most versatile colour in flannel, how would the green colour fair with the basic block colours like navy, grey and brown on top. As I don’t own any flannels but I have mid grey trousers in wool. Hence I feel having this colour would be a welcome addition in the wardrobe. What are your thoughts?

Rupesh Bhindi

Thanks Simon, I am delighted you approved and did not say start with mid-grey in flannels. Also what shirt/knitwear colours do you pair the green flannel with?

Mbb355

Would something like this fit the bill for an oatmeal in warmer weather:

https://nomanwalksalone.com/clothing/sport-coats/sport-coat-in-light-brown-marling-evans-10-oz-wool-and-linen-hopsack.html

Or is that more summery than what this article envisions and basically just a different kind of jacket altogether?