Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees.

We took the opportunity to visit the 100 Hands factory in Amritsar, and that’s where I’m pictured above. (Full report coming on Monday.)

Cream trousers from Eidos in a slubby cotton/linen felt smart enough there for what was a working appointment – but also casual enough to wear on other occasions during the trip, such as dinner in the evening.

 

 

Here they’re worn with a nice Aspesi fully-fashioned polo shirt. Trunk has them at the moment, and they’ll feature in our regular Summer Top 10 piece in a week or two.

Nice slimmish fit, and the refined feel of a knit rather than normal cut-and-sew polo.

Over the top is my Drake’s linen overshirt, which did such good service last year.

As ever, I like the fact it has just the two, breast pockets and none on the waist.

 

 

Perhaps my favourite new purchase, however, was the canvas shoes above, by Japanese brand Doek (also stocked at Trunk).

I’ve wanted a cream canvas shoe like this for a while – something that will get battered like Chuck Taylors, and therefore look casual and much-loved. But ideally better made and unbranded.

These are perfect, with nice vintage touches like the overlapping layers of rubber at the toe.

 

 

The only downside of the vintage style is in the insole, which is a single layer of cork rather than the normal cotton over foam.

This provides less support and feels uncomfortable at first, but after a few wears I no longer noticed – and did a lot of walking in them. I also found that they were more comfortable than other canvas shoes without socks.

They got dirty quickly, as you’d expect, but were easy to wash with a sponge and soap and I’m told can be (delicately) machine washed.

 

 

The other polo shirt I took, naturally, was one of our short-sleeved Friday Polos. (New batch coming in a month or so.)

This navy one has worn in nicely, with some subtle fading around the collar and placket.

The shorts I’m wearing are also a collaboration, the last prototype (hopefully) of a model that first made appearance last year in Naples, and should be ready in a month or so.

 

 

So many shorts – to my eyes – are one extreme or the other. Very narrow or very wide; very short or very long.

These are a balance: straight, and finishing just above the knee. Sartorial touches are left to the small pleats and turn-ups.

There will be this washed green with belt loops, and a smarter navy with side adjustors.

The sunglasses don’t change: Starsky model from E&B Meyrowitz.

 

 

The other footwear I loved was one I bought out there: traditional Punjabi juttis, pictured above.

I posted a picture of these on Instagram and joked that they were hand-sewn and hand-patinated.

They are of course – just very roughly. A single thick, coarse thread binds the sole to the two overlapping pieces of the upper.

This is not very neat, refined, or strong, and of course is only one line of thread where bespoke shoes have two. But otherwise it’s similar. From the leather, it’s also clear that the dye has been painted on (cf. Saint Crispin’s).

There is no real comparison to make between them and bespoke dress shoes, but I make the point merely that any process can be done roughly – it’s execution that matters.

 

 

Juttis are made without a left or right, and are very stiff to start with; but over the holiday they became increasingly comfortable. They’re now a slightly eccentric slipper for home.

It’s a beautiful, warm day in London today and feels like summer is just around the corner.

I’m looking forward to getting my cotton knitwear, Sagans, and linen trousers out of the wardrobe to join these pieces that travelled.

Here’s hoping it’s sunny where you are.

 

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A.

The shorts look fantastic! Can/when do you provide us other info?

Manco

I am from India, Mumbai city, to be precise. I have been reading PS since the past two years, and have learned a lot from it, which automatically makes me massive admirer. However, I always use to wonder, was there a possibility that you would come to a place like India where the climate’s exact opposite to, say, London ? and you did. Loved reading this blog. Hope people like me, get to read some more in-depth articles about layering up in situations like India. Thanks.

Oliver

Interested to hear more about the Eidos trousers – and indeed jackets (to the extent you’ve commissioned any from Eidos). Any prospect of a specific review of them in future?

Felix Sylvester Eggert

Simon, seeing that picture of you in the 100 Hands factory brings something to my mind.

I’m always having an inner debate on to what extent the country of production should be reflected in the products price.

On the one hand I try to fade-out where a product is made and keep telling myself that it’s the products quality , and it’s quality only (e.g cut/design, cloth, details) that defines its price. Every country can produce quality products, and I think we should never forget this, as we sometimes are prone to stereotype thinking.

On the other hand I think that it’s not to debate that making a e.g shirt in India is less expensive than having it made in the UK, and in my opinion this should also be reflected in the products price

As a products cost in the world of fine menswear is mainly driven by labour; how do you personaly balance these two sides? When do you consider a product being produced abroad too expensive?

Frank

Your shorts are looking fine, but which sizes do they come in?
I do have the same problem – I am a runner/cyclist. if I buy according to my waist then they are often very narrow to me.
I am hoping for size 28″!!?

TT

Nice looks Simon. It’s a crying shame the current Drake’s linen over shirts have hip pockets 🙁

I Like the look of your shorts to come too. very timely.

Chirag

If you can make it into a Drakes store, you can have a MTO shirt that looks the same + minor adjustments for size. In fact, you can pick from a whole host of linens. Cheers.

Carl
Bob

Interested to see your shorts project – I too am struggling finding some decent shorts but cannot justify having them made bespoke. Unfortunately based on the apparant fit for yourself its likely they’ll be too long and too narrow for me but may give them a try if they go up to my size.

Jumping the gun a little but will it be just the two colours?

Alex

Looking forward to hearing more about 100 hands. (And it’s great to see more stories on craft which aren’t exclusively English or Italian.)

The ‘sartorial’ touches to shorts feel out of place to me (a bit too boy scout?) but then I don’t wear shorts too often. (I’ve seen Neapolitan “suits” of jacket-and-shorts and to my eye it’s not a pleasing combination.) Happy to be convinced otherwise if you feel strongly.

Bob

See the shoes are on sale at the moment at one of their UK stockists (Open As Usual) and not bad at £55

Adam Jones

Nice Canvas shoes however I would find it difficult to justify the cost of these over an almost identical Jack Purcell. Granted the JP has a blue “smile” and small branding at the back but minimal compared to a Chuck Taylor. Interestingly converse did a version last year with thinner laces and cork insole. In this climate what t-shirts do you generally wear. I know your a fan of the Riviera but would these be a tad too thick for the climate?

Anonymous

It snowed today where I am. Summer feels rather far away.

P.S

Hi Simon

Great post. Looks like a warm outfit for 40 degree temps though.

Slightly random question.

Have you deliberately chosen to lace each shoe differently?

Toby

I think those trainers are so lacking in style that they ruin the whole outfit.

A bit like a modern equivalent of sandals and socks.

Why choose those when there are so many better alternatives?

Toby

Versions of a Todd style driving shoe as a starter. In leather or suede.

A proper deck shoe. Navy would match pretty much anything you wear above.

Dark brown leather thongs.

Trainers are for playing sport.

Nigel C

I’ve a few pairs of Tod’s City Gomminos. They have a full yet light sole on them so they are a bit more robust and much better generally walking around. Especially useful in the UK. Love them! N

Anonymous

Nice sneakers/plimsoles…have you considered Supergra (Italian est.1911)? Re. knitwear (happy to re-post if you reference the article) I was in Brighton the other day and found a great craft shop ‘Lana’ that specialises in made to measure knitwear (machine made not hand knitted) staffed by the delightful owner Claudia – she makes MTM knitwear (and makes in the shop). Style is more rustic/everyday than high fashion but she has curated a fine range of yarns including Australian merino, Scots virgin wool (including unwashed wool with natural lanolin and in the original ‘sheep’ colours) and cashmere. The range of colours is wide and contains colours and shades not seen in ordinary outlets(deep burgundys, sea blues, pinks etc.). Commissioned garments would be made to size (vs. generic) and would therefore be unique. Claudia can also repair woolen garments by knitting new sections and joining them in. To be clear I have no connection to the shop, nor do I know the owner but I was struck by her enthusiasm, entrepreneurial spirit and craft skill. Prices start around a quite reasonable £150, worthy of a commission Simon? Lana, 74 St George’s Rd, Brighton, lanaboutique.net

Jacob

Hello Simon,

I have recently purchased a pair of suede loafers by John Lobb, they are absolutely beautiful and with the sun finally here, I am itching to wear them out. However, I am hesitant to put them on as I am unsure if the suede should be given protection before being worn for the first time. Can you please advise on the best course of action.

Anonymous

They will have had protector applied before leaving the factory.

Ed

Beautiful shorts!

I must say, they look remarkably similar to the Cucinelli shorts on PAUW that I emailed you about earlier this year, complete with the pleats and cuffs.. That one was out of stock in my size, so it’s fantastic to know you have something similar in the works!

Will the shorts also be available in cream or offwhites?

Ian

Great post. How do the Doeks compare to Common Projects for quality? (CP seem to get ever more expensive and I’m looking for a good alternative). Also – do you have a view on blue sneakers (vs white/cream)?

Anonymous

How about Sweyd? Any ideas on its quality?

Anonymous

Re. Lana, no it’s done in the shop on small knitting machines but the output is of good quality. All machines used (some quite old and unusual) have been rescued and refurbished. To be clear it’s not high fashion output but the offering is appealing and, these days, highly unusual (MTM, wide range of yarns, skill involved etc.).

H

How do you personally wash the Aspesi Polo? I have the same one, and the laundry label says hand-wash, but that seems a little overkill for a cotton polo. Do you think the same “delicate” 30-degree wash that works for my Incotex chinos would be suitable on this?

Also worth noting the drastic difference in the shift in the shoulder seam between 46 and 48 for the Summer Top 10 write-up by the way – it moves about 4cm, whereas I think around 1cm would be usual. Could catch a few people off guard a little if they don’t notice straight away…

Chris

Which size polo are you wearing Simon if you don’t mind me asking? 48 or 50?

Paddy

Hi Simon,

Why didn’t you go for this pair instead- https://www.trunkclothiers.com/doek-oxford-sneaker-ecru

Bolaji

1st comment. Stumbled on PS.
Enjoy the freedom of speech and courtesy here.
Shorts seem inch-perfect. Seems like you’ve finally solved that vexed width to length balance. Perhaps, waist too.
Dressing for Spring can be a nightmare in UK/London. It could be raining, suddenly warm up or temperatures drop like a stone in the evening. I’d appreciate a feature for tackling this conundrum, if you haven’t already done so.

Carl

Nice pictures!

How would you compare the Aspesi polo to the Friday Polo with short sleeves? I am thinking about ordering one or two new polo shirts and have been thinking about waiting for the Friday Polos. But Aspesi looks like a nice option as well.

Another question. I am also looking for some new shorts. My main problem with most brands are that they are too tight in the tighs. How is the fit of the ones that you are planning to release?

Carl

Thanks Simon for the quick answer!

Should I take that the Aspesi is better to wear with shorts and maybe a overshirt and yours better with a sport coat and chinos?

Greg

Hi Simon, do you use a shoe tree with your doek sneakers?

Joe Cardoza

Hey Simon,

What size is your Drakes Linen Overshirt? And what is your collar size in inches if you don’t mind me asking?

Regards,

Joe

Anonymous

Hi Simon, would you say these trousers from Eidos are smarter than your P. Johnson ones?

Shem

Hi simon I’m thinking of getting my first ever pair of doeks Oxford (navy on top with white sole) to be worn with shorts. I haven worn sneakers like these in a while and I’m wondering how comfortable are they in your experience? My past experiences with cotton canvas sneakers like superga are largely negative. They don’t feel very comfortable at all especially when worn without socks. Also, does the navy necessecitate wearing something blue up top too?

Shem

Hi simon, can I ask how comfortable are your doeks without socks? I’m thinking of buying a pair to be worn as such. Also, can I ask your advice on sizing? Did you take your usual size?

Ayush

Hi Simon, your overshirt looks fantastic!
I have ordered a dark brown cotton overshirt for myself because it goes very well with my eye colour which is brown.
I want to ask a couple of questions regarding an overshirt and would highly appreciate your response.
1)I specifically have only two colours of trousers available with me. Two of them navy chinos and three being dark or charcoal grey wool. Do you think dark brown cotton overshirt go with them?
2) If i wear my cotton overshirt with a cotton shirt and cotton chinos then would there be a danger of the fabric being too matchy and should there be a change in fabric somewhere so as make it look more appropriate? (I am afraid it might be a very silly question but i just wanted to clear my doubt)
Thanks

Pradeep

Does it look odd if someone is layering his outfit not because because it is chilly outside but for the sole purpose of adding a touch of elegance to his outfit?
As you have been to India so you already know that it doesn’t get chilly in summer and spring months as it does in London and so i needed an advice that whether even a casual overshirt come across as odd.

Paul F.

Simon – Would you be willing to compare your Doek shoe size to your Alden LHS (Van last) loafer size? Apologies that this is such a specific request. I’m interested in getting a pair of Doeks, but I can’t try them on in person. Thanks!

Paul F.

I’m quite torn between the Doek court shoes in navy versus the same model in ecru? Would you comment on their respective versatility? Or is this one of those cases in which you can’t really go wrong with either model?

Derek

Hi Simon- Noted that you have added Oxford in your collection as well. As Oxford looks a bit less slim than Court, would you advice taking the same size for Oxford and Court? I have Court in 27cm which is slightly tight and short in length. I am planning to get a pair of Oxford but wondering whether I should go up to 28cm this time. Thanks so much.