This is the latest in our Guide to Cloth series – setting out the basics for what makes a good trouser, and the material options. The Guide has more in-depth articles on summer trousers, flannel, and other cloth basics. Available in the menu under ‘Guides’ and here.

What makes a good trouser? Why do some cloths work well, and others not?
And from a style point of view, which of the different ‘types’ are more and less formal?
When readers start to move from suits towards separate jackets and trousers, these quickly become questions that bother them. Particularly if they’ve paid hundreds of pounds to have trousers made, and they’re not quite right.

The key attribute of trousers is that they hang well.
Trousers are not shaped around the shoulders or the chest. They’re largely just cut for the hips or waist, and left to hang.
So they need to drape cleanly and consistently, throwing a nice sharp line and retaining it when bent and stretched, as the user walks, stretches and sits.
Technicians sometimes divide this into three attributes: crease resistance, shape resistance (not bagging at the knees, despite pressure), and some natural stretch (which allows the cloth to return to its shape after that pressure).

This usually comes from a cloth that is denser, with more of the yarn woven tightly into every inch. This is the advantage of weaves such as twill, for example, which are naturally denser.
Cloths created for womenswear often noticeably lack this. They’re loosely woven, to flow and sometimes shape around the body, but lose their shape under pressure.
There are exceptions. For example, if the yarn is particularly strong, the weave doesn’t have to be so dense. This is the case with linens and with high-twist wools. The strength of the yarn means they can use a looser, plain weave, which still retains drape with the bonus of allowing air to pass through.
And fabrics can be too dense. If there’s too much fibre in there, they can feel stiff and ‘dead’. Technicians talk about holding the cloth in the hand, squeezing and releasing it to see how it reacts – how much ‘life’ there is.

But density is still a good rule of thumb. That’s why you often find bunches of high-twist wools divided into ones for trousers and suits, and others for jackets.
Those made specifically for sports jackets are usually softer, looser and have a more open weave. You can hold it between two hands, move each up and down, and feel the movement the cloth has. It would not make good trousers.
The same goes for a lot of wool/silk/linen cloths. They’re a little too open and loose. Over the course of a day they’ll lose their shape, and over the course of a year will wear through. Or the seam in the seat will tear open.
Trousers are worn a lot more heavily than jackets.

A final point is pilling. Cloths that are looser and not suited to trousers are more likely to pill.
A little trick to test this is to take the cloth between your finger and thumb, gently rub it in circles 10 times, and see if a little fluff comes off, in a messy way.
This is a good indicator that the material will pill later, particularly where there is most abrasion, for example between the legs.

So, with all this in mind, here are the key types of trousers.
The most noticeable absence is hard-finished worsted wool (standard suit cloth). This might hang well, but style wise is usually too shiny and hard-finished to look like a separate trouser.
Whipcord
A particularly dense wool twill. (In general, you can tell the density by how vertical the diagonal twill line is.)
Great body and shape, the only downside being a tendency to look a little old fashioned, and therefore often better in darker, formal colours. Feels thick, with body, rather than thinner and harder like gabardine.
Covert
A version of whipcord more commonly used for coats, but also good for trousers. Partly defined by country colours – brown, tan, green – and different yarn colours (often visible between the twill lines). Has a tendency to be shiny; matte versions often better, more casual and versatile.

Cavalry twill
Whipcord with twill lines running in pairs. Often a little more matte in texture as well.
Serge
French for twill, and a phrase not often used because it became rather broad. Generally, refers to a wool twill that has a slightly woolier finish without being milled.
Bedford cord
A hard-wearing cloth with the appearance of the same vertical ridges as corduroy. It’s woven differently, however, and looks different for the spaces between the ridges and faint lines running between them. A good, denser alternative to corduroy.

High twists
Cloth that uses a yarn that is twisted to give it strength and crease resistance. Usually the default for formal trousers in warm weather. The summer equivalent of flannel, though a little smarter.
Flannel
The universal favourite for separate trousers, because it nestles so nicely between formal and casual. Fine with a sweater, a tweed jacket or a navy blazer. Defined by its milled finish, which explodes the fibres and causes a fluffy appearance.
Gabardine
A warp-faced fabric with a high density. Traditionally in lots of yarns and finishes, but today generally in a fine yarn and hard finish, which makes it sleeker and shinier, similar to suitings. It is usually too formal for me as a result. Most plain cottons used for tailoring are gabardines, however.

Corduroy
The distinctive weave (actually a type of velvet) with vertical ridges. Nearly always cotton, but also wool. In a good weight, with no cotton or elastane, makes good trousers. But perhaps more subject to the vagaries of fashion than the wool twills.
Moleskin
A cotton twill with a brushed finish. Warmer and cosier, and therefore mostly used for winter. Again, subject to fashions: often seems a little old-fashioned today.
Chinos
Not a cloth at all, but a style of cotton trouser. Usually uses a cotton twill, but otherwise varies hugely as to how the cotton is woven. Can be stiff and sharp, even shiny; or can be soft and washed. In the latter case (most common in high-street shops), largely gives up the ideals of drape and body.
Denim
A cotton best defined by its 3-by-1 twill and indigo colour. But can be in a huge variety of weights and colours, even weave structures. Denims used for tailoring are generally finer and denser, in order to achieve a bit of that drape. Which is why they look nothing like jeans.

As ever with describing cloths, there are the original, narrow definitions and then there are modern uses.
Often the definition describes only one part of the process (such as weave or finish) but it takes on other aspects over time (eg is a worsted flannel really a flannel?). And then there are cultural associations (such as with serge).
I find the key thing to remember is – when you visit a tailor – to know the kind of cloth you want (heavy/light, dense/loose, casual/smart) as well as the name. There will always be variations and exceptions.

Where are those workwear chinos from?
The Armoury. Unfortunately not made any more
This is very usefull, but, and please excuse my ignorance here, but you didn’t mention tweed. Is this already covered under one of the other headings? Thanks.
No, you would just generally not make trousers out of most tweeds, as they’re too loosely woven. There are exceptions, but at that point they’re really wool twills coloured like tweeds
Hello Simon,
very interesting post. I have a further question on tweed trousers: Is the problem with the loose weaving that the trousers can become baggy at the knees? I wonder what this means for tweed suits with normal trousers (as opposed to plus fours, where this would perhaps be no problem), e.g. from Cordings: Will the trousers change their form over time? This would be a pity as I like this combination.
Thanks, Michael
Yes, the issue is losing shape, so bagging but also losing any crease, and not having a sharp line when worn.
That said, as mentioned in the comments above, it depends on the tweed – some things are much sharper and denser, but some people would say at that point it’s not tweed anymore.
If there’s one hard rule, it’s that if you use a tweed that’s designed as a jacketing, for a suit, the trousers will not perform as well.
Genuinely useful post. Especially as I go to have a pair of trousers made for me this afternoon. Have a feeling this is going to become something of a big legacy post for the site. Thankyou Simon!
Simon, apologies if my memory is awry, but I think I remember a very, very early PS post where you wrote that trousers were one of the least worthwhile items to get made bespoke, considering the cost compared to getting a good pair of RTW adjusted. That was years ago. I wonder if you still think this?
Yes I still think that’s accurate – see this post
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2015/08/what-is-worth-being-made-bespoke.html
Do you think this advice on altered RTW still applies if you are something of an odd shape (I’m 36” waist, but only 30” leg)
Yes, largely. You might just have to hunt around a bit more for shapes that – or perhaps go for MTM. Unlikely to absolutely need bespoke though.
Hi Simon,
What do you think of wool-mohair blends for trousers? Are they a good durable option?
Best,
Bryan
They’d certainly be durable but I’d only go for them over wool if I wanted the particular look of mohair – crispness, often a little sheen
from my experience be careful with mohair, I’ve heard it described as the ‘diamond fibre’ and such like glowing praise. however as Simon says, its very very crisp so looks ultra formal, more so than even a worsted, that makes it difficult to wear more casually if you had say a sport jacket or trousers made from it. also what people dont discuss so much is that while it is hard therefore has strength in this respect its ‘hair’ and therefore can it can stretch and bag so in a jacket you may need reinforcement in the making, and trousers could I imagine be an issue around the crotch.
I have a pair of a pair of wool mohair trousers. I think the fabric is Vitale and they are very nice. Little sheen, but keep a nice crease and are lovely in the Spinrg/Summer.
Very useful, thank you.
1. Under corduroy, after noting it is typically made of cotton, you write that it is best “with no cotton”. Was that a typo and you meant to write something else? I’m assuming you aren’t against cotton corduroys.
2. When you discuss the density of cloth to ensure good drape, is that largely about the set, or is it also about the density/weight of the yarns themselves?
1. Yes, sorry a typo. Should say no lycra or elastane
2. The set. Yarn can be thicker or heavier but it doesn’t have to be densely woven together
I wish there was more wool corduroy, I’ve seen it in RTW but rarely ever in cloth for mtm/bespoke
Simon you would actually be wrong on the elastane or similar point. Pretty much all the cord coming from the big houses has a very small element built in.
The bunches I buy trousers from all say 100% cotton – whether Scabal, Holland & Sherry, Brisbane Moss. There are some with elastane, some without.
Are you suggesting they have elastane in even if they say 100% cotton?
Hello Simon,
another really nice post indeed.
Question (that could make it in its own post): How much fabric does one need for different tailored garments?
Let’s say a pant, a jacket, a waistcoat, a suit (both 2 and 3 pieces), a full length overcoat and a pea coat (each taken individually)?
How much influence is there in the person’s measurement there? What’d be the difference between a 5’3″ tall / 38″ chest and a 6’4″ tall / 52″ chest man?
The question comes as I recently was in a cloth store, and realised I have no clue what I need for myself, or a friend of mine for that matter.
It’s a good question, but there’s not much point in listing lengths here, as it will vary so much with height and weight of different people. You need to ask a tailor and then write them down for future reference.
When and who changed the trousers tomorrow leg width or skinny .
Now all my dress slacks are out of fashion
Hi Simon,
Thanks for a great article. I wonder whether you have any experience with side adjusters working better or worse with different trouser fabrics. On a pair of lighter woolen trousers, the adjuster simply don’t catch, and are essentially purely decorative. Is it a case of getting better adjusters? Or are there adjuster types that work better on some cloths and not others?
I think it might be an issue with the particular type of adjustors. The only issue I’ve had is on thicker fabrics where the cloth won’t fit through twice. But on lighter fabrics it should always be fine if the adjustor works
Thanks! You don’t happen to know where I might source some replacement adjusters that are sure to fit the bill?
No, sorry. Best to talk to the company that made them – they will have better sourcing options (and indeed, should bear responsibility for those things being functional)
Hi Simon
I was interested in your recent article in the Robb Report in which you referred to the pleasure of wearing linen trousers in warm weather and recommended going for 11 ounce material. I notice that Anglo Italian offer 7 ounce trousers and Drakes 12 ounce. In the context of your article today what would the experience of both clothes be ? How often would you bother to get such trousers pressed ?
Thanks
Paul
I’d go with 12 ounce – the difference there isn’t much, but you will notice it between those and 7 ounce.
I’d only press them once or twice a season. But I might iron the creases back in myself once or twice too.
I think you aren’t a huge fan of cotton trousers, but what weight (and weave) should I look for in a 3ish season wool fabric for trousers?
I like them, it’s just hard to find good cloths for them. In regards to wool trousers, something around 11oz would be fine for most seasons except summer in the UK, but it does depend a little on personal preference. And twill will usually be the best for keeping a hard line. But finishes vary, and other weaves are good too. I’d look more at the terms above and see whether you like examples of them – such as cavalry twill or flannel for example
Hi Simon,
Enlightening post.
Based on your previous comment about trousers not made of tweed but of tweed coloured wool twill, I wonder what are tweed suits made of? Are they made of “real tweed” or wool twill made to look like tweed? If they are made of real tweed, are they effectively rather fragile and likely to last far less than the jacket?
There are no absolutes here – no clean definition of tweed, and tweed suits will usually be made of a wool (like tweed) that is merely a little denser and sometimes finer, sometimes worsted, so it makes better trousers. The Thornproof bunch from Porter & Harding, for example, is dense enough to make a great suit. But it isn’t what some people think of as tweed
Great article, thank you. Any suggestions for chinos formal enough to work with tailored jackets?
Drake’s, Anglo-Italian, Stoffa, Anderson & Sheppard
Even though linen is mentioned in some of the subtext, it might be an idea to add it as a bolded option as well, I think that’s a more obvious fabric missing than regular wool suiting.
Sure. It’s also covered more in the following article in the series, on summer trouser cloths (See contents for this Guide)
I am looking for a pair of tougher workwear chinos and would like something like the (discontined) army chinos from the Armoury. Do you have any recommendation for something similar?
I haven’t tried that many, and the Armoury ones are by far my favourites, but worth looking at Brycelands (very high rise), Informale (still fairly high rise), Blackhorse Lane (mid-rise) and workwear brands like The Real McCoys etc. Most will be fairly big in the leg, so watch out for that
“And then there are cultural associations (such as with serge)”
what did you mean by this Simon? Serge is associated with what exactly?
Serge for most mill technicians just means a twill (in French). But it is associated with a certain weight of woollen, slightly unfinished, and often in navy
yes but what did you mean by ‘cultural associations’ of serge? A certain group wears them? Older crowd or something?
No, I merely meant what I said about a particular weave being associated with a final design of trouser. It is not associated with different parts of the culture; but the culture makes certain associations of the weave with a type of trouser. In the same way you a culture might assume a Mackintosh is of a particular design and colour, even though it’s just a company.
Hi Simon,
Thanks for this very useful post. Eventually, an opportunity for me to ask you a question about serge. Which are the mills that produce its heavy version? Up to now I’ve googled with no success.
Thanks in advance for your help.
John
I have some from Fox. I don’t know any others, but if other people do, I’m sure they’ll chip in
Simon, on your homepage there is a photo right at the top titled ‘the sagan loafer’. What trousers are you wearing there? are they the same as ‘pale grey high twist’ in the first photo in this blog post?
You’ll have to send me a screenshot next time you see it zohair. Those images at the top of the homepage rotate through a very large number – they’re different every time you visit or refresh
Thank you for the useful information. In the same fashion of the article above, could you elaborate on ties, pocket squares, shirts, socks etc. , I trust it would be as much useful and fun to read as the above.
Best,
Have a look at the sub-sections of the menu – under Guides you’ll find extensive information on shirt cloths. And under Style (on a desktop) you’ll find a section on Wardrobe Building that covers some of the other areas too
Just a thought but maybe a capsule collection post on trousers and some tips when commissioning them specifically could be useful.
Thanks John.
There are these posts on trousers if helpful:
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/03/trouser-colours-to-wear-with-odd-jackets.html
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2018/04/trouser-measurements-style-and-proportions.html
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2018/04/filling-the-gaps-six-pairs-of-odd-trousers.html
All in the ‘Trousers’ category
Simon, I’m not sure I get that right: do navy trousers work with an odd jacket depending on their cloth (a serge like you have here, or a donegal, cotton or other more casual cloth) , or should it generally be avoided?
They’re generally not that versatile and should be avoided.
Simon, as usual a very informative article. I’ve one question out of my own experience. I’ve had several trousers made with side fasteners, i.e. no belt. After wearing a few times a crease builds on the waistband at the front, where this gets folded when sitting. Is this normal, or do some tailors add some kind of an insert in the waistband to prevent this happening?
I think this is normal on any trousers Edward and unrelated to having side fasteners. The only solution is to cut the trousers differently, eg by having a lower or higher front rise
Hi Simon,
Would you have any recommendations for covert or whipcord bunches?
Dakota from Holland and Sherry
Hi Simon, I just wanted to know more about wool-mohair blends and if they make for good separate trousers. I’m looking for something not too light and will be crease resistant. Would be great to hear your thoughts!
Hi Bryan,
They can be good, but you also get a specific look, even with only half mohair. Very crisp, slightly formal looking. I’d go for a high-twist wool instead if you want light and crease resistant. Like Crispaire or Fresco