When we published our second capsule guide to trousers recently, there was a discussion in the comments as to their smartness – and a request for an article setting it out.
Now, trousers vary in more than just their material, so this will always be a simplification. But trousers are relatively simple compared to shoes or jackets, so I think there is something sensible to say.
Just keep in mind that these brief guides are a starting point – a way to understand the factors (more texture is more casual, muted colours are smarter) rather than a set of rules.
So with that always in mind, here is a sliding scale of formality of trousers, with notes on what else – as a result – they might go with. Apologies to those that will find it basic, but I know now that some readers will find it useful.
We’ll go from the smartest to the most casual.
Wool gabardine, mohair, superfine worsteds
A normal business suit is made from worsted wool – fine wool that has been processed to be smoother and sleeker. That’s why it’s different from a hairy tweed jacket.
Some worsteds are especially fine, or particularly processed, to be sleeker still. These, such as wool gabardine, are usually seen as smarter than regular worsted; and while mohair has a different, crisper handle, it has a similar sharpness.
Shoes: These worsteds are most suited to shoes such as oxfords, that are also sleeker given they don’t have the extra leather layers of a derby. Usually calf rather than suede; usually darker colours.
Upper half: Most usually worn with a smart jacket such as a blazer, or a particularly fine knit.
Regular worsteds
As above, but more like a standard business suit. And usually not the preferred choice for trousers on their own anyway. A navy pair worn with a white shirt won’t look wrong, but it will probably look like there’s a matching jacket somewhere.
If you want separate trousers for a work environment, best to go for something like flannel, or even cavalry twill, that doesn’t look like it’s part of a suit.
Shoes and upper half: If you do wear suit trousers in this manner, then same as above
Textured twills and high twists
The group I’ve called ‘textured twills’ includes cavalry twill, covert and whipcord. They all have much the same sharpness as the worsteds above, but aren’t as fine and usually have a little more texture. They’re also usually in less formal colours, such as greens, beiges and browns. But they don’t have to be.
I’d put high-twist wool in the same bucket. It’s a summer material, but also has the sharpness of a normal suiting with a little more texture by natural of its twisted yarn and open weave.
There is, by the way, more comprehensive information on all these fabrics in the PS Guide to Cloth.
Shoes: These sub-sections get easier and more predictable as we descend the smartness scale. A textured twill such as whipcord is more likely to suit a brogue, a derby or a boot, and a brown shoe rather than black. But as always there is more than one variable, so a charcoal whipcord could be great with a black boot, for example, because it’s a smarter colour.
Upper half: We’re getting into the realm of more textured jackets, such as fluffier cashmere and tweed. Knits can be fine, but smarter shetlands, for example, also work.
Flannel
The old favourite. A woollen rather than a worsted, so without that fineness, and with a napped finish that gives it a little fuzziness.
Flannel is great at bridging casual and formal; perhaps the best. And annoyingly there’s little in the summer that does it as well.
Shoes: A classic grey flannel works with black leather shoes and a white shirt, but also with a brown suede boot and a crewneck.
Upper half: As above, good with a navy blazer or a tweed jacket, a fine V-neck or a shetland. If you imagine all these categories as overlapping sections of a scale, rather than single points, then flannel is a wider section than most.
Linen
Linen is tricky because its formality varies quite a lot depending on its weight. A heavier, starchier Irish linen is arguably very elegant and could sit above flannel on this scale. But a lighter, Italian one could be made with a drawstring and be fine on the beach.
I think it’s important to remember this versatility and see it as a strength rather than a complication. You could wear nothing else all summer and cross several types of smartness.
Shoes: Rarely an oxford, but most other things, particularly loafers given it’s a summer material. And at the casual end everything like espadrilles and sandals.
Upper half: As above. Tailored jackets to T-shirts.
Tailored cottons, moleskin and cords
This section could be divided up further: many tailored cottons look smarter than any corduroy. The latter is more casual by virtue of its texture, as is moleskin.
But the important point here is that cotton is nearly always less smart than wool; and that this is a separate category to chinos or khakis, which come next.
Shoes: Not oxfords, but derbys and loafers, no blacks, and suede as well as leather.
Upper half: Not a T-shirt, and not a smart blazer or fine knit, but everything else in between.
Chinos
A chino will usually be made from a less fine cotton than the types above; it will only have a simple waistband; it’s more likely to have raised seams and other details.
You know what a chino is. But these are the reasons it is in a different category to the cottons above, and they are why it looks different too – eg it doesn’t really drape, it just sits there, more like a denim.
Shoes: Slightly more casual than the tailored cottons, and therefore suited to slightly more casual shoes. For example, perhaps not a fairly smart brown-calf derby. But then at the bottom end, anything you want, including trainers/sneakers.
Upper half: There is an American style that involves wearing jackets with chinos and it can look good, but it’s quite specific (roomier jacket etc). Most of the time chinos aren’t the best with a jacket, and should be kept to more casual partners, such as a suede blouson or overshirt.
Jeans
You don’t need to be told that jeans are at the bottom of this list, or probably that a dark, indigo, unfaded jean is smarter than a light, blue, faded one full of holes. But they’re here for the sake of completeness.
It might also be worth saying that white jeans are in some ways the smartest of all denim. And as a long as it isn’t dark and raining, they’re quite versatile.
Shoes: Same as chinos although, oddly, I think some leather shoes work better with jeans than chinos. Eg a tan derby.
Upper half: Same as chinos although, equally, I find tweed jackets better with jeans most of the time.
Images:
- Homepage image: Paolo Martorano
- Article images, top to bottom:
- Osaku trousers workshop
- Cream gabardine trousers
- Chalkstripes on Patrick
- Grey Crispaire trousers
- Panico flannels
- Cream linen from Whitcomb
- Heavy brown corduroy
- Chinos at Clutch Cafe
- Full Count jeans
- White Drake’s jeans
The point of this article was to answer reader questions, so please tell me if I have. And if I haven’t, tell me how – I’ll add answers in the comments, or supplement the above. The whole of PS is basically an extended Q&A anyway.
Simon, you could not have timed it better!
A superb article on trouser formality and a great help to me and others.
Where would you rank Venetian and Bedford Cord?
I encourage you, if you haven’t already, to have a look at the Dugdale’s ‘Invincible’ Bunch and Smith Woolens ‘Whipcords & Cavalery Twills’ Bunch which have some beautiful cloths.
A grey whipcord from the latter bunch is part of my current commission with Steed Bespoke.
Great Post!!!
Nice to hear Lindsay.
Bedford cord I’d say similar to cord – maybe a touch more casual as it often doesn’t have the sheen of cord. Venetian I honestly have never seen a pair of trousers in that weave. Pretty niche!
I know both bunches, there are some great options in there, particularly if you want dense, sharp wools
Two questions .
1 On the subject of linen trousers why are they almost always straight or wide legged?
I’ve desperately looked for linen trousers with a taper and decent pockets (frog pockets) .
Can anyone recommend linen trousers with both .
2 Might I add that what also needs mentioning is a utilitarian trouser …. Something that can handle a commute, weather , good pockets that can’t be pick-pocketed .
(What is it with me and pockets !?)
P.S.
Great article .
Reminds me of that little book I came across many , many years ago with your name on it explaining very basic principles of menswear.
1. I’m not sure but I would guess that a closer fitting leg will wrinkle more and distort the line of the trouser a lot. Also, linen is more of a warm-weather material which benefits from good air circulation.
2. What do you mean by a utilitarian trouser exactly? Something tough but still smart?
On the book I assume you’re talking about the old Obsessions/Snob pocket guide!
Utilitarian trouser ? … I suppose I mean something functional , smart , durable , practical and hard wearing .
I know sometimes you see trousers with draw-string elasticated waist band , zip pockets and a fabric blend that allows it to be worn say cycling on a ‘Boris bike’ but then transfers well to the office and at the end of the day to the pub.
One that isn’t a jean and is more resilient than a chino .
Maybe others can recommend something.
P.S. Yes ! The Snob book .
Hey Robin,
Well I wouldn’t call a trouser like that smart really. That’s pretty casual, no matter what the material.
The issue often is that smart and hard wearing are opposites – smart trousers are made of finer wools, look more luxurious, but aren’t great for cycling in.
However, heavier and denser worsted wools can work pretty well. Eg worsted suit-type trouser in a heavier wool, or one of the textured twills I mention but in a darker, smarter colour
Hello Robin,
just a few thoughts on the “utilitarian” trouser. As a commuter cyclist I’ve been experimenting a bit and eventually found that in cold weather a pair of cavalry twill trousers fits the bill quite nicely. This fabric is sturdy and windproof but still can drape nicely and offer a fairly smart (well, smart-casual) look. A wider cut might be a reasonable choice as a close-fitting leg will be much more prone to wrinkling etc. with all the stress the fabric gets while you ride.
In warm weather I’d go with some linen or cotton-linen blend. Of course they will crease but it it’s a type of fabric in which a few wrinkles don’t necessarily ruin the look.
But then, as Simon said, utilitarian qualities rarely go hand in hand with a smart look. The question here is one of finding the right balance between these 2 aspects. Is a sleek look your priority? Is it comfort and ease of movement? Is it weather protection? etc…
Interested to know where you would place various blended trousers such as this wool/cotton mix by VBC from Cavour: https://cavour.co/en/product/5853/summer-cotton-wool-trouser
to me, it feels like it belongs with high twists but is slightly less formal.
Similar case with cotton/linen trousers. Would the cotton in the blend make it less prone to creases and therefore, more formal than a pure linen trouser? or would it be more affected by other factors such as the texture and weight of the fabric
Generally, mixing cotton in is going to make the trouser less formal, not more. The cotton tends to mean the trouser rumples, doesn’t hold as sharp a crease and looks less elegant.
However, unless the cotton is the majority of the fibre mix, the style is likely to remain pretty similar to the main fibre and finish, as looks to be the case with that wool/cotton. It looks pretty similar to a worsted wool trouser, but would maybe feel a little softer and not hang quite as well.
“And annoyingly there’s little in the summer that does it as well.”
That is so true! I tried heavy high twists to solve this dilemma, but it sitll isn’t the same.
By the way, what tweed jacket are your wearing with those Full Count blue jeans? That combination looks particularily tasty.
It’s from the Anthology – full piece on it here
Come to New Zealand, we never have true summer. Tweed all year!
Hi Simon,
No big surprises here – there really shouldn’t be any of course. Always nice to see everything on a scale for reference however. One point I’d like to contest you a little bit on is corduroy. I find that a dark corduroy looks quite smart in the evening, its velvety characteristics make it rather chique in my opinion. Naturally, this doesn’t really go for a brown or khaki cord. In this line of reasoning, you did not mention velvet (it’s not a typical trouser material of course), would you put that with the rest of the cottons?
Yes, I can see that with cord, though only in the evening probably. With a nice brush down too!
No I’d put velvet as pretty smart, but obviously also dressy/showy – a different dimension. The sheen is so much more evident on velvet than cord
Simon,
I think Zegna’s CashCo cloth is well worth a shout out here. I’ve had a few pieces made with it – both jackets and trousers. It combines the softened of cashmere with the durability of cotton and comes in a range of beautiful colours that make it suitable for day and night.
Regards,
David
Thanks David. What is the fibre mix? I’ve never really liked cashmere in trousers, it seems to always affect the drape and sharpness too much.
Due to the cut perhaps, or the way they fit, I find that worsteds trousers are more versatile than many would care to admit. This is especially true in function, if not as much form. They hang naturally on the body and can be fitted more loosely than many other type of trousers, yet still look sleek, as perfectly demonstrated in third picture in the dark pinstripe. Due to this characteristic, they also feel comfortable during summer and spring, when other types of wool can feel much warmer, if not out of place altogether. Needless to say that I am a huge fan and to my mind, nothing else in wool offers the versatility and elegance that comes with this type of garment. I could go on about the other uses, e.g. easy to clean, hardiness in general, etc.
Please do! I never hear much praise of worsted wool.
Great article.
Personally I think that finish should vary with levels of formality.
The most formal featuring side fasteners – the rest featuring belt loops ?
Now that ties are little worn, belts have assumed a new importance. They offer a focal point. A point of separation and a vehicle for self expression.
For me, cuffs or no cuffs / pleats or flat front – is a matter of taste. I have both.
Regards,
David
I know you mentioned it in a previous article about left-hand vs right-hand twill and which one is smarter, but I cannot find it now. Might it be an idea to include that for completeness sake in the tailored cotton section?
As a side question, are there any particular or prominent weave/fabric names used for tailored cotton? I’m aware of cotton gabardine and obviously seersucker, but I’ve seen drill mentioned before (and for shirts too).
The details on right and left-hand twills are in the Real McCoy’s article here. You’re right, it does make a difference and a right-hand twill is usually denser and tougher. However, that would then be a chino so in a different section, not a tailored cotton.
You could definitely go into more detail on the tailored cottons and break them down. Hard to include everything. Cotton gabardine is smoother and usually used in suits over other cottons. Seersucker I’d put as a separate material (in the same way cord and indeed velvet are cottons but separate). There aren’t that many more though – drill isn’t used as a term that much anymore but refers to a fairly tough twill.
There is more detail in the Guide to Cloth, especially on different weaves.
Fantastic article! Just the refresher course on the differences between worsted wool and the other woolens was very helpful.
I have a pair of 16 oz, 8 wale olive cords(cordings) which are so useful -especially during the current changeable weather. As you say, they go with just about everything(bar tailoring) and most footwear. Easy to smarten up or down.
Where would you put tweed trousers here? And I assume brushed cottons fall under the category of Textured Twills?
Yes I’d say so.
On tweed trousers, it depends what the tweed is. Some are pretty baggy and hairy, others much denser and sharper (eg Thornproof). The latter is almost a textured twill, the former nearer a cotton.
But again, it’s not hard to work out – it’s always the same factors of smoothness, texture and so on
Great article, Simon.
I have one question: In your opinion, do pleats and/or side adjusters increase the formality of trousers.
Yes, absolutely. For that, though, see the trouser sections of the Guide to Suit Style in the menu
I saw you on Savile Row this afternoon what an incredibly handsome and very stylish man you are Simon. Had I been smarter dressed I’d have introduced myself and complimented you on what fantastic work you do. Keep it up.
You’re very kind Ras. Please do say hello next time – no matter what you’re wearing
Hi Simon
For footwear under cords you say “no blacks” – I’m a little confused – could you expand more on this? Is even a black loafer (in suede, cordovan etc) definitely too formal for cord? I had imagined it might look quite modern with your dark brown cold cords. Why is it that black shoes work for some brown flannels but not for brown cords? A formality thing?
Hey Pete,
No you’re right, that should be less absolute – as indeed the image above shows, of brown cords with black shoes! The point, as I’m sure you get is that most black shoes are too smart for most cords. But the more casual the black shoe, and the smarter the cord, the more they begin to overlap
Thanks Simon – on a similar last, like the Belgravia, how would you rate the relative formality of a black suede versus a black cordovan versus black calf? Is cordovan the most relaxed?
In black, cordovan isn’t really that different to calf, particularly if you give it a shine. I’d say they’re both smarter than suede
Is there a reason you cuff jeans and chinos ?
This might deserve its own post. It certainly comes up a lot.
With jeans, it’s a look that I like and feels more current, perhaps also less smart. Jeans that are not cuffed today look like more of a statement.
With chinos, I usually don’t but quite like the look sometimes, in the same way as on tailored trousers (adds weight, a visual stopping point and so on)
So… if one happens onto a pair of nice jeans with an inseam within shrinking distance from length of leg then it’s a statement to buy those instead of looking for a pair that doesn’t fit as well? Isn’t that going a bit far? They’re just jeans, right? First they’re too big, then they’re just right, then they’re faded, then there are holes, and some of the nicest ones get repairs, too?
With my inseam of ~30” jeans that fit are never really one of my problems, but when the inseam winds up just right it is certainly no statement, it’s more like a cosmically fortuitous miracle of alignment of denim and spin cycle. Then you wear them happily and try to remember to not spin them anymore, and eventually fail, at which point your new jeans will have cuffs again, or stacks, or both?
Well I’m surprised you have so much variation with the length of your jeans Stefan. After the first wash or two they shouldn’t really change length again. So at that point you can have the length you want – whether that’s with a turn-up or not.
I also wouldn’t say having the jeans with a turn up mean they don’t fit as well. Fitting well just means the fit you want.
Not having a turn-up isn’t that big a deal, but if you did want to choose, not having one is usually a slightly more unusual choice at the moment.
Is your Fox Flannel trousers double pleated?
Do you mean the flannels in this piece? They are not Fox, but are from my Panico suit and are VBC cloth (link at the end of the article)
But my Fox flannels don’t have any pleats, no. Most of my trousers don’t. Have a look at this piece in our Guide to Suit Style for details there
Hi Simon,
Great article. For my two cents, revisiting the basics helped me to really re-engage and think about some of my wardrobe in a way I hadn’t before.
Hi Simon, I hope you don’t mind me asking a quick question. I’m having a jacket made by an Italian tailor, with all fittings taking place in London. I paid half the cost up front but I’ve been told that I have to pay the other half at the first fitting. Is this normal? When I’ve had bespoke made by a London tailor it’s been half up front and half when the item is completely finished, which feels more equitable. Many thanks in advance for the advice!
Hi Alexander,
Not at all, the site is the place for that, and always happy to answer here. It benefits lots of other people as well that way.
In my experience that isn’t normal, no, though not entirely unheard of either. So I wouldn’t suspect the request is suspicious in any way, but I would perhaps say that with your English tailors the practice is to pay on delivery and you’d prefer to do that, if that’s OK. I suspect it will be. If not you can always plead lack of funds, as you had planned it that way.
I hope it gets resolved
Best
Simon
This is incredibly useful, thank you Simon.
Good article, can you give some examples of tailored cottons please?
I think a pair of Oxfords with a light hue, say a pine shade, can work with tailored cottons and chinos. Although have to pair colours carefully, the right green or brown but not navy blue.
Thank you.
On tailored cottons, see here from Perro for example.
That kind of trouser in a paler colour could work with a lighter coloured oxford, but a more casual shoe like a loafer, derby or boot might fit better.
I wouldn’t ever wear oxfords with chinos though, meaning more casual cottons – less fine a cotton, less a smart trouser.
Thanks for the link.
Normally I try to abide by the, informal, commonsense rules. But there are some items, shoes or otherwise, which are favourites/signature items, due to quality, appearance or heritage, which convinces me that I can wear further afield. Less about discipline, more the heart ruling the head.
Thanks Misbah. Each to his own, it’s a wonderful world of styles out there. I would only say it’s always worth being aware of these kinds of customs and why they exist, even if you end up not following them.
Definitely. I’m fairly sure I’ll drift more in to the fold over time. Much as I like classic menswear, they can be, deliberately, narrow confines within which to operate. So the contrarian in me likes it when I see people challenging or breaking the rules, especially when done well.
Nicely put Misbah
When you say about chinos “There is an American style that involves wearing jackets with chinos and it can look good, but it’s quite specific (roomier jacket etc). Most of the time chinos aren’t the best with a jacket, and should be kept to more casual partners.” Please can you go into more of the specifics about successfully pairing chinos with a jacket, considering for example if a patch-pocket garment-washed cotton Boglioli jacket would be suitable, even if it is fitted and darted? Wishing you every success with the web site. It’s great to see the website evolve and stay relevant over the years, whilst always being high quality advice.
Thanks Gary. To be honest I’m not sure I’m the best one to set this out, as it’s not a style I really wear. A washed jacket like a Boglioli would certainly be better, though it’s more about the wash than the patch pockets.
The important thing is to keep the principle in mind that chinos are pretty casual, and both they and the jacket need to work hard to fit together. Then see what you think yourself when you try them.
my opinion would be a fitted and darted jacket would not work. something like a Drake’s games blazer can work.
True Zo. Depends on the material of course, but I’d hesitate to call some of the Drake’s Games Blazers, tailored jackets. They’re closed to chore jackets
hi simon can i ask what shirt you are wearing in the very first picture with the white/cream trouser? Looks like a white linen with a one piece spread collar? It looks very good
Yes that’s right, it is. See this article for details
A perfectly timed article from my perspective. I am moving jobs and no longer have to be suited every day. It means I need to build out my separates. Can anyone recommend a store for high quality RTW flannels in London? I have already tried Anglo-Italian, but was wondering who else to visit.
We have a piece coming soon on RTW trouser brands we’d recommend, Rob. Hopefully that will be ready in a week or so
Fantastic! I’ll look forward to reading it.
Thank you, Simon
I’ve struggled purchasing chinos in the past, usually using brands like Hackett, Gant and J.Crew as they fit best off the peg. However, their products contain 2% elastane which I’m not keen on as it clings to my thighs and doesn’t wear well over time.
I’ve been looking for 100% cotton chinos and have found Tailorstore do a 100% cotton twill with custom sizing. The price seems quite reasonable, do you have any thoughts on whether its a sensible purchase.
Thanks again
Steve
I really don’t know Steve, as I’m not familiar with Tailorstore at all I’m afraid
Depending on what type of Chinos you desire if you want smarter RTW Chinos I’d suggest going to somewhere like Cordings for 100% cotton. Or going to Son of a Stag if you wear your chinos with t shirts sweatshirts and sneakers suede shoes etc for a casual option.
Thanks Ian. For clarity, the chinos that Cordings sells I would put in the category of tailored cottons. If only these things were all regulated!
Hi Simon,
Great article yet again. You’re a great fan of grey flannel trousers so I was wondering if you have any recommendations for these in RTW or MTM (I can’t stretch to bespoke)?
Thanks,
Alan
Weirdly Alan, this is the third time today someone has asked about RTW trousers, and we have a piece coming out soon by Manish comparing them all – so wait until then if you can!
Hi Simon- one thing I wanted to also suggest to folks on MTM trousers is not to be afraid of buying cheaper ones and then having them altered. Just like you did with your Rubato chinos – I’ve found it perfectly possible to change the line/style of Cordings or others. Now I mostly focus on the fabric and then alter the waist/seat and line accordingly
Nice advice, thank you David
I have a pair of flannel trousers from the online brand Spier and Mackay that I am very happy with.
Hi, Simon! As always, a very useful piece with sensible advice and an easy ‘cheat sheet’ reference for all the trousers. I can see myself coming back to this one often.
I do have one point that I’m unsure about. You say that tailored cottons should not be worn with a smart blazer or a fine knit, but I’m not so sure based on my own experience. For instance, I have these single-pleat trousers from Cavour in stone and a flat-front pair in a much lighter and almost transparent fine beige cotton similar to this one and I have worn both very successfully with fine knits such as cotton and wool knit polos, fine merino cardigans, and also my dark navy blazers with gold buttons.
I do probably wear them more often with more casual jackets (wool-silk-linen, open-weave wool, tweed), but not as often with less fine knits, particularly the beige pair as it is a summer cloth so I wear only fine knits with it unless wearing a shirt. In my experience, I haven’t seen any issues in matching the formality of the tops and bottoms in those combos, with the former pair because it is a moderately slim single-pleat with turn-ups and side-adjusters, and with the latter mostly because it is such a fine and soft cotton that it almost looks like beige wool until you’re up close.
Another small ‘disagreement’: I think chinos can work well with jackets if the jackets are clearly not in smart materials and are ‘plump’ looking, such as e.g. Donegal or herringbone tweed or a fluffy cashmere. I have pulled it off with brushed cotton chinos in brown/mushroom, very dark navy chinos and mid-beige taupe ones. Your point on the American-style chino+blazer makes sense to me, it can be done but only under specific circumstances and the right fits.
Thanks!
Thanks Stephan.
On the Cavour trouser, yes that is a particularly fine cotton, and so perhaps the smartest you could get in that category. I could see how that could work in some scenarios. As ever, these are all spectrums that overlap at their ends. I’d say that is the smart extreme of the tailored cotton category.
On the chinos, yes the material certainly helps although I feel that fit aspect is crucial. Most tailored tweeds we’ve ever featured here would struggle. I also think cashmeres are harder.
Thanks, Simon! You did mention spectrum overlap indeed.
Fair point on fit and your own tweed jackets, could be that my experience is based on my RTW jackets in that fabric. I think this ties in to context too – a tailored tweed worn in the city would be matched with tailored trousers and worn more for style and love of the fabric (or warmth), while tweed in the country and for more active pursuits (out and about on the town, walk on a forest trail…) needs less of a close fit and is used in a more ‘utilitarian’ or deliberately more casual and ‘shabby’ context, lending itself to more casual and therefore less-well-fitting trousers.
P. S. As reference, my beige cotton dress trousers look very much like these trousers of yours, from a distance: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2020/09/the-formal-tieless-jacket-with-steven-hitchcock-blazer.html
Thanks Stephan, that is smart in that case.
Don’t get the chinos + jackets slander, it’s a modern day classic imo and quite often as smart as you can go if you want to wear a jacket without looking out of place these days
Thanks Matt. If you have any thoughts at all on how those two look best together, I’d be happy to hear them
Please don’t take me seriously I was attempting to be light hearted x I think as long as the chinos are of the smarter variety and a neutral colour like beige or grey it works, esp with a classic navy hopsack or similar. But even more casual styles could be pulled off, kinda like in your last pic with the off-white jeans – they could probably be swapped out for chinos in the same colour and it’d still work
Btw, if I can pick the PS hive mind for a sec, has anyone come across decent rtw linen trousers below the £150 mark? They’re unbeatable for versatility and comfort but I can’t seem to find a budget friendly option to save my life
Try Spier & Mackay, Matt.
On chinos – apart from the “American style” you mentioned, would you just advise no tailored jackets with chinos, ever? I just ask because I have always assumed it was fairly standard practice (perhaps due to having seen the American style you mention) but have tried it a few times and it never really feels right. I know you get chinos in different levels of smartness (slimmer cuts with hidden stitching/seams being more smart) but are none of them really great with a sports jacket? Even a tweed jacket or something equally casual?
I wouldn’t say never do it, but I think it’s worth being aware that it’s harder than with other trousers for it to look good. And I’m not the best person to advise on how to do it, as I don’t like it myself
This is a look I like, but I think it only really works if you do it in that devil-may-care insouciant Ivy way – and it helps to combine with other like elements – blue OCBD, beef roll penny loafers, white sports socks, Shetland jumper under the jacket, etc. (but without looking like an RL catalogue model!)
So much of this is association though, and therefore very personal and subjective – the idea of making a finer, slightly dressier version of what were originally army trousers, makes no sense to me personally, for much the same reason as slim and pointy penny loafers, lightweight tweed hacking jackets that definitely couldn’t go shooting, or a motorcycle jacket that you couldn’t wear on a motorcycle. Etc. The “authenticity” is what legitimises, at least for me.
Good article. I tend to agree with most of this but never thought about categorising the different types of wool trousers like this as clearly as you have.
Trousers seem to be one of the most overlooked items for people that need to dress smartly without wearing a suit. I see lots of people wearing casual chinos with smart shirts and jackets, or plain worsted trousers (not as part of a suit). In both cases it just feels unimaginative when there are much nicer and more interesting options that could be worn.
A question: are there any types of wool other than high twist that are suitable for separate warm weather trousers? I have tried high twist and really struggle with the scratchy texture. I am considering trying Crispaire and Drapers 4ply based on your recommendations when I asked a question about suiting fabric on another post but getting MTM trousers in an unfamiliar fabric to see if I find it comfortable is an expensive experiment.
Nicely put Alan – those are two of the biggest problems I think: casual chinos with smart up top, and suit trousers on their own.
On summer wool trousers, there is a big difference between types of high twist. I don’t think you’d find those other two scratchy at all. You can have non-high twist, but it’s always going to be warmer because the air can’t circulate as easily
I think the issue is that the sort of shops the average person shops at only sell worsted suit style trousers, chinos or jeans. To get more options like flannel, cavalry twill, cord, linen etc you normally have to go to more niche menswear shops or go MTM / bespoke.
Thank you for clarifying that point about high twist wools. I thought they would all be some degree of scratchy but if Crispaire and Drapers 4ply are not then I might give one of them a try. I find dressing in winter so much more fun because you have a wide array of comfortable drapey fabrics to choose from (not to mention the opportunity to add lots of layers to outfits), whereas summer fabrics always seem to involve compromises.
Yes I know what you mean. It’s a lot easier if you come to love linen, though of course that doesn’t suit more formal requirements.
This is an incredibly informative post, Simon. I love the 50,000 ft view of all trousers. Am I correct in inferring from this post that both worsted and superfine worsteds can be used for suits, but only superfine worsteds are appropriate for standalone trousers? Thanks so much!
Hi Drew,
Some worsteds can be OK for standalone trousers, but you want to avoid ones that are two smooth, or that basically look like the orphanned half of a suit. It’s a lot to do with association.
Simon,
I just noticed Kit Blade is an advertiser. Their website doesn’t offer much information about the company. Can you offer a comparison of their products to other pant makers that readers of this site will be familiar with? Their offerings look intersting, but with so little actual information, one is reluctant to try. Thank you.
I haven’t tried them I’m afraid Fred, but we have an article coming up that compares ready-made trouser brands, including Kit Blake, so hopefully that will answer your questions
Hi Simon, A very good benchmark to concentrate the mind in choosing an outfit. I’m sure we all put something on occasionally & look in the mirror & think sometimes “ does this look quite right” without being able to figure out why; although I think PS readers will do it better than most.
Flipping it around with shoes & trousers what’s your take on brogue shoes & your selection of trousers?
Thanks Steve.
Well on brogues it kind of follows from the breakdown here, right? There are other factors that make a shoe casual or not of course (colour, material, last sole etc) but they’d naturally go with around the textured twills and flannels all the way down to jeans in some iterations (eg a chunky suede Alden longwing)
Hi Simon. would the W&S chinos be smarter than most chinos and be appropriate to wear with tweed jackets?
No, they’re pretty much the same as regular chinos, that was the point of the experiment really.
Personally I wouldn’t wear them with tweed jackets, but then again as I’ve said I just don’t like that look that much.
Thanks for your reply. For a tweed jacket, regimental stripe tie, and Oxford button down shirt, would corduroy or cavalry twill trousers be the best choice?
Either could work CMW
Hi Simon
I suffer from very naturally skinny legs in comparison to wide shoulders and a small waist.
I find that odd jackets and trousers seem to accentuate this in an unflattering way – broadening the shoulders but then trousers making my legs look even skinnier.
I can’t work out how you and others achieve a nice drape without the trousers swishing around and making the problem even worse. Is it something to do with picking heavier fabrics? Avoiding either too wide or too skinny leg lines? Any help appreciated.
Hey Chris,
I think a fairly mid-cut on the trousers is probably a good idea, yes. And slightly heavier fabrics if you perhaps wear something like regular suit trousers most of the time. Is that the case?
Usually Incotex flannels/chinos. I got most of them in 2018 or so, when slimmer cuts were very in vogue, stopping a bit higher above the shoe with no turn-ups. I think that may be part of the problem
Yes it sounds like it Chris. They will be skinnier and also lighter weight fabrics. I’d go a touch wider, so the legs hang straight more easily, and in a heavier flannel, 11-13oz
Hi Simon,
Thanks for the very useful piece. Like others, I’m wondering about your advice on chinos and jackets. Would you no longer wear this combination?
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/08/chinos-loafers-and-a-sports-jacket-or-sweater.html
It didn’t strike me at the time as a clash in terms of formality – and it still doesn’t.
I sometimes wear Incotex chinos with a jacket. It doesn’t feel off. But perhaps those chinos are sufficiently unlike the workwear kind of chinos. I seem to remember you wrote a piece on the different types of chinos once, but I can’t find it.
They’re certainly a long way from a workwear chino, yes, much more a ‘tailored cotton’ kind of trouser.
I don’t mind that outfit today, but I would rather it with either something like flannels or with jeans. Those cottons just often seem stuck in between style-wise, as practical as they are.
The points on different types of chinos were in the Rubato chinos review
Thanks Simon. That Rubato review incudes this useful thought on ‘smart’ chinos: a combination “works OK when the jacket is soft, undone, and worn with some slouch.”
Thank you for this article—it’s really useful. Where does a relatively casual coat in donegal fall along this continuum? Maybe with the flannels, or a peg higher with cavalry twill, if the cavalry twill is in a somewhat casual color?
I think it depends on the colour of the coat quite a lot, but yes certainly with the cavalry twill and then all the way down to jeans potentially
What about fine knitwear designed to go with tailoring, like a Dartmoor? Is that formal enough to pair with cavalry twill, and maybe a refined tweed?
I have a similar question regarding worsted flannel. It has a bit of a sheen, and certainly is more formal than flannel. But I can also see it being paired with something like the Dartmoor, especially if the trousers are in a casual color, like brown. Could a particularly refined tweed work with all of that?
Yes to all those questions I think. Not a huge fan of worsted flannel, but only because I like real flannel so much. I can see how it would fit into that usage for you
Nice overview of common trousers. I will disagree with your placement of wool gabardine above “regular worsteds”. Gabardine has historically been a sportier material than the “regular worsteds” like serge, prunelle and plain weave. Though gabardine suits are a thing, gabardine trousers don’t have the “missing suit jacket” look of the more common suitings. Because of its defined steep twill wale, I think of gabardine as akin to whipcord and cavalry twill for warmer weather. It’s the classic sporty trouser for classic spring/summer jackets, like the hopsack blazer. It’s what men had before high-twist wool was a thing. I don’t see it being nearly as smart as mohair, which is used not only for fancy suits but also for dinner suits.
Hi Matt,
Thank you. I know what you mean, but gabardine today usually has more of a shine to it and is in a finer wool. Of course it doesn’t have to, but the wool gabardines I’ve seen and had made are all rather smarter than the other wool twills here. Of course colour also plays a bit of a role – those older gabardibes were coarser, heavier and in more rural colours
I understand what you’re saying. A lot of the gabardine I see these days is 240-260g, which is very lightweight, smooth and shiny. It’s usually in cream or earth tones, which dresses it down. I found a picture of Ralph Lauren Purple Label navy gabardine trousers, which certainly look dressy. In the picture they hardly look different than my midnight blue mohair dinner suit. But in the tan and cream I’d say it’s less formal than a grey serge, and definitely mohair in any colour. I can’t imagine a formal suit in this cloth. Huddersfield Fine Worsteds has a more traditional 340g gabardine, which resembles my older gabardine trousers. It has texture, but it’s sleek. It’s shinier than serge and plain-weave worsteds, but it’s also so different from them. I’m used to thinking of it as a sporty trouser despite its sheen. It’s what I was raised on for odd trousers for warmer weather.
Simon,
What types of jackets do you feel go well with cotton tailored trousers? Do you feel they have similar problems as chinos matching jackets?
Thanks
Similar yes, though it’s a little easier. I would say the best jackets are a little more casual – like woollens in the winter or wool/silk/linens in the summer
Thanks. What are these trousers mostly at home with? Knitwear? Casual shirts? And maybe more casual items like your linen overshirts, Harrington or suede jackets?
And loafers at the bottom?
Thanks again
Certainly great with knitwear, yes. Either casual things – a lambswool crewneck – or really smart ones – like a fine merino collared knit. Also good with all those casual jackets too.
Derbies, loafers or boots.
Do charcoal flannel trousers go well with dark brown shoes, or would it be better to combine them with black or color 8 shoes?
And for charcoal flannel and linen trousers, do you favor single pleats and turnups, or flat fronts and no turnups?
Thanks again
If the brown is dark enough, yes it can work, though black of C8 is probably safer.
Unrelated to the colour, I always have flat fronts and usually turn-ups. See the suit style guide here for all those kinds of questions
Hi Simon, I hope you don’t mind this quite specific question. I’m looking to expand my trouser range: materials, colour, etc. I’ve a fair few already, and my budget isn’t limitless, so I’m looking at the Berg & Berg sale. Quite taken with their cavalry twill in cold beige and their sand flannels, as I don’t own any CT, or flannels in that colour. But would you say they (especially the CT) fall into the ‘old man-ish’ category, in terms of colour-and-material combo?
https://bergbergstore.com/products/arnold-cavalry-twill-trousers-cold-beige
I think they might be OK actually, the colour is darker and colder, nice with white as shown on the model
Hi Simon, do you think ecru/white canvas sneakers could work with dark brown corduroy trousers?
Many thanks,
Jack
Potentially, yes, but you’d want the trousers to be more casual – so no tailored, not so fine. Maybe with something like a seam on the bottom, like a chino would have.
As regards shirts, could i assume that casual shirts like linen and linen cotton shirt which works with tailored cotton trousers can work with chinos?
To an extent, yes. There are much smarter and more casual versions of linen – I think you have to use your eye as to how smart they look
Hi Simon,
You wrote that “oddly, I think some leather shoes work better with jeans than chinos. Eg a tan derby” I am a little bit surprised by this, what other leather shoes and colour do you think would work with jeans? Tan leather penny loafers perhaps?
I’m not sure off-hand what else I’d put in that category actually, it’s a good question. There is a certain look of tan shoes like that with jeans which is a nice casual, Ivy-influenced look, whereas with chinos it can look a little too old-fashioned. I’d just be aware of that potential and see if you agree when you try something
Well It’s weird that I’ve been wearing tan leather tassel loafers with jeans mostly with off-white T-shirt and light wash jeans combo for months. They look good in my eyes. for chinos? Umm probably something like cream or beige would be more appropriate.
I try to limit myself to have 8 shoes only that are appropriate to wear in a tropical country, 8 shoes that I can wear with jeans, high-twist wool suits, linen suits. Here’s the list and it’s inspired by your “If you only had five shoes” and please feel free to correct me and which shoes should be better to get:
Would a normal shirt worn with just suit trousers look awkward or can it be done?
It won’t look awkward at all Ayush. It might not have lots of style or interest but it’s a perfectly normal look
Thank you so much Simon for your comforting words. If I may ask when you say it might not have lots of style then what would that mean?
Just that it would be a bit plain and uninteresting!
Hi Simon, what do you think of ‘textured twills’ 330gsm trousers + wool/silk/linen jacket 240gsm ?
Do you recommend it ?
I think that sounds fine. What particular concerns did you have?
Oh, I tend to match a herringbone w/s/l jacket with twills wool/cotton trousers.
Don’t know if those textures can work together or not. It seems quite unusual for me.
Ah, I see. I think it could only maybe be a problem if the patterns are very pronounced. They usually aren’t in the twill
Hi Simon, great post as usual.
I am planning on getting a pair of dark brown seude chukka boots (C&J Upton or Chiltern), to go with my mid-grey and taupe flannel trousers.
Do you think they will work well with smart tailored cottons and/or high-twist wool trousers in the summer? Would a dark brown seude penny loafer work better instead? (And also with the mid grey flannel)
Yes a penny loafer would probably look better in the summer, but get the boots now and think about that in the summer perhaps. It’s just a question of whether the boots look a bit hot and heavy when it’s really warm
Thanks Simon. Also, on a sliding scale of formality, do you think dark brown seude oxfords cover comfortably the range between tailored cottons/high-twists and taupe/mid-grey flannel trousers? So a more limited range than the chukka/loafer but a touch smarter for a smart casual office.
Yes I agree
I am just wondering, whether a smarter style of chukka boot (like the C&J Tetbury here https://www.crockettandjones.com/products/tetbury-darkbrown-suede?variant=36448232505416¤cy=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwg-24BhB_EiwA1ZOx8ogYVjig0DqbBwkik2o0glMW0Mlnf8edX6L-Ut2EKm5EaRLceK-lDhoCTKAQAvD_BwE) can go well with tailoring, anything below worsted formal suits, e.g. cav twills or textured wools, and with a smart casual jacket. Would it be a stretch to wear these with smarter chinos and/or denim?
No I think they could be able to bridge both of those Mark. I think you’ll end up wanting a loafer as well at some point, but the boots could be fine with both
Hi Simon, I’ve started wearing more flannels recently, as mid grey trousers, largely from inspiration from your posts!
However, should I be worried about the durability of the trousers, relative to, say, high twists? I’ve been told by some they don’t last very long (about a single season). I wear them daily on the weekdays, brush them often and dry clean only as needed. The fabric is about 270 gsm.
They won’t last as well as some, but they should still be pretty good. Certainly more than a season. But try not to wear the same pair every day, that will really shorten their life. Aim for every other day, so they can fully dry out