Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

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Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range.

To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight pique-cotton shirt made by Luca Avitabile, Belgravia tassel slip-ons from Edward Green in dark oak, and two options on top.

The first was my oatmeal-cashmere jacket from Elia Caliendo (in Loro Piana jacketing), which as we know from the original post on it, is rather nice with green trousers.

The second option, pictured further down, is a knitwear stand-by - the short shawl-collar model from Anderson & Sheppard, in navy.

Drakes trousers and alligator belt

The pique on the shirt is lovely in the summer but a touch transparent, so I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it. Fine for off-duty, but not safe for work.

As with our Friday Polos, however, I do like the casual effect achieved by chopping off the shirt’s placket and buttons half way. 

The navy shawl-collar is particularly nice with the Drake’s trousers, as they are rather high-waisted. They are also quite slim on the thigh: I sized up (to a 34") and had the waist taken in.

anderson and sheppard shawl collar sweater with polo shirt

As the Drake’s article explains, the colour and cloth choice in the new range is extremely versatile: mid-grey flannel, dark-grey worsted, olive chino and stone chino. For a capsule collection to go with odd jackets, it’s hard to think of a better selection.

The quality's also good, being made by Rota, with nice corozo buttons - and they're good value at £225.

If I had my way they would side tabs rather than belt loops and be a little lower in the rise, but you can’t have everything.

The belt is my bespoke alligator one with a brass buckle. Apologies for lack of article on that - I realise it's been a while.

Edward Green Belgravia tassel loafer

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T

Tabs would be nice. I think the rise looks fine though, it’s not too high that you would feel odd when taking off the jacket. For RTW, I myself have a harder time of finding a good mid-to-high rise

James

I think the rise is just about perfect on the trousers, Simon.

The only jarring point for me is the loafers. I’ll admit that I’m not a huge fan of tassels but the extremely dark colour looks too formal with chinos to my eyes. I think snuff suede would be a better fit, or ideally, the ‘polo’ suede that Carmina and C&J – the reddish tinge would play beautifully against the muted olive green of the chinos. All in theory of course. Might be a bit flashy in practice.

http://cdn.styleforum.net/e/e1/e1d37711_IMG_4474.jpeg

Anonymous

James,

I love loafers in general, and tassel loafers in particular, especially when paired with a less formal trouser. Not denim, mind you, but a tailored chino for sure. I think they can elevate a casual ensemble to something between casual and business casual.

Agree about the rise. I’m having all my pants made now with a higher rise and slimmer through the upper thigh — love the drape so much more than the typical RTW article.

MITCH

Hi Simon,
I remember reading in a past post that your navy A&S cardigan pictured is a medium. I like the cardigan very much and was just a little concerned before purchase re the sizing. I’m a 43-44′ chest and would usually wear a large in most tops. On the A& S site this would put me as a medium the same that you have.

Do you find the cardigan to be quite fitting or loose? Im not a huge fan of the skinny/slim fit around the chest and arms. Thanks for your time.

Ben

Simon, I’m struggling to understand the price point, which seems to be around that of some made to measure tailors, particularly outside of London. Why not have a pair of chinos made-2-measure with side tabs, and without the hassle and additional cost of a waist adjustment to cope with a slim thigh? What am I missing?

nick inkster

Have to agree with James on the shoes; way off really.

Chinos will never get anywhere near to formal, so it makes no sense to wear formal shoes, even if they are near the informal end of formal.

Paul

The best way to go with chinos or linen trousers is to match them with Italian moccasins,Belgian loafers or crepe soled desert boots.

John

Hi Simon,
This is a very sharp outfit! You’ve been right about the elegance of this muted oatmeal jacket. Now since I’m not a tassel loafers wearer, if I had been in your shoes, so to speak, I would have kept all the other items in place and then pick up your AS suede single monk strap. But in no way would I have followedJame’s advice by choosing the polo suede. Why? Because it would have drawn too much attention to the feet, whereas the obvious big challenge with such an outfit is to remain within the constraints of colors while maintaining a certain level of sophistication, which … this specific kind of monk strap easily meets too. For sure, as to shoes there are other options too.
By the way, I’ve found your piece posted on Drake’s website very interesting. I completely agree with you about the versality of stone chinos. But as you also mentionned, it’s not always easy to find the right shade.
John

Archie

I have the dark-grey worsted which come with side adjusters and a nice extended waistband – very nice they are too. Drake’s getting a lot right at the moment.

Jonathan

Hi Simon,
How would you compare these, make and style-wise, with the trousers from Incotex?

Thanks,
Jonathan

Matt

It’s a shame that Drakes don’t offer longer sizings for their trousers and jackets. All of their trousers for this season come with a 33″ leg as standard, which is way too short for me. I can understand why a smaller retailer would be unwilling to offer trousers finished to different lengths, but why not just sell them unhemmed?

Sean

I love the one-button cuffs on the jacket – very nice.

Martin

Hello Simon, the chinos look good, but I was wondering if the 2% elastan have any advantage for pants that are not tight.

HR

Simon, do you have a general rule of thumb when you prefer belt loops over side tabs? I usually consider chino a relatively casual fabric and would figure belt loops here? And while we are on the subject – do you have any feelings one way or another on d-ring side tabs vs a regular square buckle?

HR

When adding side adjusterd to a pair of RTW trousers, do they need to have an extended tab waistband?

David

Hello Simon, why no belt with jeans?

Also, what do you think of the more fashion-forward look of rolled up slim chinos? And which brands or manufacturers would you recommend for slightly more casual chinos (think without the crease) than the ones from Drakes or Incotex?

Thanks.

David

Thanks, Simon. Of course it’s very personal, but why not wear the kind of belt you’d wear with chinos? Do you think there’s a mismatch between a more dressed-up belt and denim (in which case there are some nice canvas belts too)?

Jon

Hi Simon as Luca Faloni hasn’t had a post yet thought I’d ask on your latest post. Do you have any experience of his items? They look great for summer.

Lewis

I’d also be interested in a post on Luca Faloni. The style of the linen shirts and polos look great, as does the price point. Would be beneficial to know more about the brand.

Michael H

That’s a lovely colour & texture on the jacket – I am not used to seeing chinos with turn-ups, is this common now, am I out of touch? Also I think that the black (or black-looking) socks contribute to a more formal look.

Martin

Would you mind sharing the measurement of the turn-ups?

Frank Jensen

About your alteration – I do have the same problem if I buy trousers (RTW) to fit my waist 28″ – they are quite slim on my thighs. Do You think I could buy size 30″ and have the waist taken in? (without ruining the trousers)!

Bob

Was going to ask Drakes but may as well ask here….
Being colourblind this may just be a dumb question….
I got the email the other day and went to their site and noted there is no trousers called “stone” but there is a pair labeled as “kharki” which look similar, to my defective eyes, to other company’s “stone” offering. Is it just that they sold out of the stone or have they renamed the colour? Either way not the greatest timing to post an editorial when you are out of stock of the item or have renamed it

Dan

Simon, do you know if the current (March 2017) set of Drake’s chinos bear any resemblance to the ones in this post, in terms of their cut? Different fabrics, too. There is a “stone,” which looks Khaki, there is a “Khaki,” which looks Olive Green, and sadly, the lovely muted brownish-greenish one from all the photos is nowhere to be seen.

Martin

The chinos sold out in most sizes in about a week! Do the ones Rota made for Drake´s have a specific cut or can you get the same elsewhere?

Gus

What’s going on with Edward Green? Dwindling customer service and now available in independents.

Sami Mohammed

Dear Simon,
You have mentioned in the past of getting hold of Incotex chinos & cords with a slightly wider leg (17″+). Where were you able to get these from? Where can I buy regular (not slim) Incotex chinos & cords?

Thank you
Sami

Frank

I hope You would answer my question?
I have been considering either Drakes worsted trouser or their flannels. Which one is the most versatile? It should be used in a rather casual way with a light grey sports jacket or a navy.
The shoes will be suede.
I have read your article about what to wear to grey trousers, but Drakes writes that their flannel goes with grey, blue and brown jackets, so I am leaning toward them??

happy hollidays

Anonymous

What are good brands for chinos, other than Incotex and Drake’s?

Joel

Hi Simon,

I bought a pair of Incotex chinos a few months ago. I’ve put on weight so let them out in the waist. I didn’t know they can’t be let out due to the dye process. They are dyed once the trousers are put together. Now I have a pair of trousers I can’t wear as the let out section is a different colour.

Any advice such as getting them dyed again?

Joel

Sean

Hi Simon! I’m in the market for a new pair of loafers and am confused about the pros/cons of lined vs unlined & rubber vs leather soles!

Also, I noticed that Paraboot (dax) are similar price-range to C&J. Is the quality comparable?

Shem Teo

Hi simon i have a pair of armoury sports chino(their slimmer new ones) and have washed and worn them for about a year now. I have noticed they have continued shrinking with each wash to the extend that the length is now a little too short. E.g there is no stitched in cuff. I fold the pants up to create a cufff. Without folding it up the length is perfect. With the cuff it’s too short by 5cm. I’m wondering if ifs possible to extend the length of trousers and be able to cuff it

Hugh Brown

I truly admire these tassels which seem to go well with any color trousers. Well done, sir.

Kushal

Hi Simon!
What would be your advice on charcoal grey chinos?
Would it be too formal in colour for chinos?