Spring/Summer Highlights 2026: De Bonne, Allevol, Oak Street

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This is our seasonal piece covering the best things I’ve bought recently, with comments on fit and views on style. A useful round-up, a gear review in brief: they’re all things I’ve bought and worn already so I can help out with any more detailed questions as well. Just ask in the comments. 

The last two are from Lucas, as noted. It’s so nice having a plethora of views (and wider range of styles) in the team. In fact on that subject, we recently hired our third member of staff - Bao - whom readers will have already started to meet on the support emails. He's been an absolute godsend. Welcome Bao!

1. De Bonne Facture ‘Artist Shirt

Size: Medium

€271 

The two notable things about this shirt from De Bonne Facture are the lightness of it, and the colours. It’s made in a washed cotton voile that’s really lightweight, yet not see-through. It feels very cool on the body and I can’t wait to wear it in the summer when I really feel the benefit. 

And the colours are great - unusual but subtle. I took the ‘rosewood’ (shown on me, top) which is nice with blue jeans as well as brown trousers. The dark brown shirt (above) is also really nice - slightly purply. And there’s a standard navy if you want something safe. 

2. Buck Mason ‘Hollywood Trousers’

Size: 32

$298

When Lucas, Manish and I went shopping at Buck Mason in LA last month, the one product we all walked away with (in different colours) was the trouser from the Hollywood line of suiting. 

They’re a really nice cut - wide but not exaggerated, tapered slightly through the thigh, and a comfortable true high-rise fit. Having met the Buck design team now, I can understand why the cuts are so good. Few brands at this price level are doing all their own pattern work. 

I took the linen herringbone in natural. It’s a lightweight linen so wrinkles a little more, but cooler too. 

3. Allevol quarter-zip sweatshirt

Size: Large

£195

I like a sweatshirt with a collar where I can, because I find it more flattering around the neck. The issue is I rarely like the collars on them - the McCoy’s one I have is a bit tiddly. So I was pleased to try this from Allevol at Clutch Cafe. 

The collar stands up a bit more and rolls down quite nicely too. The material is soft and light as far as most Japanese sweatshirts go, but I’m tending more in that direction - a bit like not having the patience for raw denim anymore. 

4. Vicki Turbeville southwestern jewellery

Size: N/A

My cuff: $400

We met Vicki and her partner, Steve Nelson of Mountain Lion Trading, while we were in LA. They’re both wonderful people; Steve in particular is a legend of trading in southwestern art and artifacts.

Vicki handles the jewellery side and that’s the most obviously shoppable: Lucas and I both bought simple necklaces for our partners, and I bought a beautiful vintage cuff. Highly recommended as an online source, or as a lovely place to visit. A couple of minutes from Redondo Beach. 

5. The Anthology ‘Dress Chinos’

Size: 50 

$325

There have been quite a few questions from readers about these since The Anthology launched them, so apologies for not including them in anything sooner. To be honest, I’ve just started to wear them with a few things. 

I’d describe them as a really nice smart chino - the kind of thing I’m most likely to wear with tailoring, if I did so. The material is a soft, slightly peached cotton, and they have dressy details like lapped seams as well. The fit is a fairly high rise, slightly more than I usually have, and flat so the same rise in the back. 

6. Strapateer camera strap

Size: N/A

£125

I recently bought a Fujifilm XE-5 camera, and obviously wanted a good strap. Our photographer Alex recommended this one and it’s proven a very good purchase: a little vintage in look, which is of course welcome, but very functional as well. 

I haven’t found I use the ability to wear the camera under a jacket, then unsnap the strap in order to pull it out, but that’s probably because I’m too precious about the fit of my outer layer. It certainly does work if you want it to - and I shorten the strap to use it more around the wrist.

7. Dalmo cotton/linen knitted polo

Size: Medium

£331

Dalmo, the Italian hand-framed knitter we've featured a few times on PS, have just launched a website for the first time. They're a small operation, and in the past have concentrated on made-to-order (which they still do) but the site will hopefully now make their products much more accessible.

I tried a couple of things on the site recently, and I'd recommend the knitted polos in a linen/cotton mix. I've never particularly liked pure linen knits, despite several attempts over the years (eg the green here). They're just a little too heavy and lose shape. But a cotton/linen mix is a great idea, and the 'Patrizia' in brown has been lovely to wear.

8. Rubato short-sleeved linen shirt

Size: Medium

£285

Rubato did a different version of their pop-up in London this week, where they came over for just a day, with a few appointments for people to see just the new releases. I tried all of them (of course) but my favourite was this short-sleeved shirt, because I find it so hard to find one of those in a cut I like.

This one is a little higher in the neck which is good, and while the sleeve is a little square (which I know some readers will actually prefer) a little fold back of the end produces a perfect taper on me. Happy to answer questions about anything else in the range (which I think launched for everyone yesterday.

9. Oak Street ‘Rowing Oxford’

Size (Lucas): 11(US)

$372

This is one I haven’t actually bought myself, but Lucas has been wearing a pair for almost a year now and I’ve seen them age really nicely. They fall into a category of shoe that you could think of as a boat shoe with a chunky sole - that same rounder, casual look, but with a sole that can cope with walks in the countryside. 

It’s not a category I’ve explored yet, as I’d usually wear a boot in that kind of scenario. But if I do, these are definitely the ones I’d go for - more than the others from Timberland, Paraboot, Sperry or Yuketen that Lucas has also tried. 

10. Lady White ‘Band Pant’

Size (Lucas): XL

£255

While we’re talking about Lucas, let’s include this one as well. I wrote about my lazy travel clothing recently, and the controversial thing was the Bryceland’s sweat pants. Well this is what Lucas wears: a cotton trouser with a pin tuck from the great LA brand Lady White, whom we also visited on our recent trip. 

The material has more clean drape than a sweatpant, and the appearance of a crease helps too. They have nice natural stretch - you’d almost think they had some elastane or something in there, but they don’t. 

Top and bottom pictures: Eoghan Gilmore

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128 Comments
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Anon

The leather may be different, but the design detail on the shoes is a 100% lift straight from Timberland.

Anon

Well Timberland call the style “Authentic”. I bought my first pair about 45 years ago and still have them. You can still buy them today. I’ve never seen any shoe that looks remotely like them. Even the sole pattern on the Oak Street is copied from them.

Darren Maggs

Introduced by Timberland in 1978 when they added the lug sole to a boat shoe.

David

It was Timberland’s route to taking on Sperry–which it did pretty well. Sperry went on to change its soles completely. You used to be able to replace a Top Sider sole and the shoe itself lasted forever. But then when Timberland came along, Sperry ditched that approach and by the late 1980s, it was quite hard finding any one that would replace a worn Top Sider sole at a cost that made sense vs buying a whole new pair. I used to have my original Top Siders from the early 1970s, but the soles went and there was no way to replace them.

Lucas Nicholson

Hey! So I had a pair of the Timberlands and they are good for the price, however the quality of make and materials (on the current pairs) is not the same as these Oak Streets and as someone that has about 7 pairs of this style from different makers, Timberland may well be the originator but they are no longer the best producer of them.

El Chango

Do you own a pair of the Oak Streets? Word on Reddit is that their quality has fallen way off lately, but I like the styling so much and that’s a pretty perfect color

Lucas Nicholson

I do and so far so good, I haven’t had any issues! Been impressed by them.

C

Lucas, I like the look of those Oak Street shoes. I have similar from Timberland in a same-ish shade, but struggle to wear them. They just seem to yellow to blend into an outfit, and feel like they stick out. Any tips on putting together something coherent?

Lucas Nicholson

Hey, here are a couple of examples I wear them with. I find them very easy to wear, if yours are a bit yellower it may be worth giving them a little oil to darken the colour slightly?

Lucas Nicholson

Drakes olive suede chore and off white chinos

IMG_8067
Lucas Nicholson

Dalmo knit vintage levis

IMG_6231
Lucas Nicholson

HE Sports lambswool knit and shaper trousers

IMG_2198
C

Ah these look great, but in proper photos they look a lot more brown (and wearable). My Timbs are verging on gold (picked them up in a deep sale on a punt).

You might be onto something with the oil, though. If I get some time soon I’ll give it a crack.

RY

An interesting selection, Simon. A couple of questions, if you don’t mind. Which colour did you go for in the Anthology chinos – was it the ecru or the beige?
How do the Buck Mason Hollywood trousers compare to your Edward Sexton ones? The ES are bespoke, of course, but I was wondering how the two compared in terms of cut.

RY

Thanks, Simon. Exactly the information I was looking for.

Alex

A follow-up to this question: how does the Buck Mason “Hollywood” compare to the Anthology Dress Chinos, especially in relation to the rise. Thanks!

Lewis

Thanks for the great recommendations Simon.

Seems like De Bonne Facture are sold out of pretty much everything on their website. Do you know if historically they tend to restock, or is that pretty much it for the season ?

Thanks,

Lewis

Thanks so much for following up Simon.

Aaron D

I’m not sure what I think of quarter zip sweatshirts. Obviously they go together – sporty detail for sporty knitwear but the thinness makes me think of quarter-zip fleeces. Oddly I rather like chunky wool knit quarter-zips.

Kev

Hi Simon,
Regarding the new Rubato releases, how did you find the pilot chino? Would you put it as a smarter chino like The Anthology pair? And do you think the moleskin is good for summer?

ANON

How is the color on the Rubato Camp Collar Shirts? Any thoughts on navy / brown / black if you could only choose one? Would love to hear any advice.

m

Good choice on the XE-5, I’ve had one since launch and XE-4 before that. Really the perfect little camera for personal use. More understated than a Leica and more versatile than Fuji X100. What lens(es) are you using the most if you don’t mind sharing?

Raj

Did you try the Rubato shorts this season, Simon? The measurements imply they are massive but the photos on the models seem a bit more moderated.

Raj

That’s helpful.

Can you comment on how your upcoming shorts might compare in terms of rise, material, and silhouette? Or do we need to be patient :). I’m just trying to decide between placing an order vs holding out for now

Richard

What size do you take in the Rubato shorts Simon? And also. How did you find the fit of the medium in the short sleeve linen shirt? I’m similar to you but perhaps a 40/41in chest. Same height and waist as you. Do you think M would be the size to go for?

Oliver

Hey Raj, the shorts this season are in a lighter cotton twill as opposed to last years version. These also feature forward pleats.

All the best,

Oliver

Richard

Oliver or Simon, I’ve just ordered your (Rubato) indigo deck pants and in anticipation of washing and getting them hemmed, do I send them off to Cluth Cafe to get them chain stitched, as you’d expect with a pair of jeans, or are they treated as simply denim trousers and my usual tailor could do the job?

Rand

Lucas,
Have you ever tried the Oak Street Camp Moc? If so, would you recommend it?
Thanks,
Rand
P.S. Welcome to the PS Family Bao!!

Lucas Nicholson

Hi Rand

I haven’t tried the camp moc but would say I have been suitably impressed with these to say they are probably pretty good!

Kobie

I have the Oak Street Trail Oxfords in brown Chromexcel with the chunkier Vibram soles. 12 years old and still going. Very good quality and lovely patina now.

Bao Tao

Thank you for the warm welcome!

Noel

I’m in the market for a dressier chino to wear with tailoring. How do buck mason’s version compare to the anthology’s ?
Any other suggestion from brands covered here (ie Rubato, Casatlantic) that might fulfil this role well ?

Alex

Always great seeing such a diverse selection for the seasonal highlights. I ordered the hollywood trousers in khaki and based on the pictures in the online store considered them also for wearing with tailoring, i.e. mock Leno sport coat and shirt. Any thoughts? Question for any of three buyers!

MBB355

What do you think about the new cotton-linen roper shirts? I love a casual cotton-linen shirt for spring/summer, and these seem like they’d work casually and with tailoring. Eyeing the cream in particular.

Gez

If you don’t mind me asking Lucas – what size do you take in the Oak Streets compared to something like Aldens or EGs?

Lucas Nicholson

Hi Gez, I went for a US11 in the Oak Streets, in Aldens I’m normally a US11 in Barrie or Trubalance. In Edward Greens I’m normally a UK10.5

Gez

Great, thank you Lucas.

Sigmund

Lovely read! As a Los Angeles based reader, I can’t help but get a little excited by all the references to LA in this article. Can we expect a write up about your visit or perhaps an update to the LA shopping guide?

Philip

Is the Dalmo polo see through? Thank you.

Emil

Cool to see a few American brands highlighted! Despite the vitriol that comes out of the White House, Americans still love our friends across the pond.
I hope you all enjoyed your trip to the States

David

Quick question Simon – when will your ‘26 shorts be available?

Tom

Hi Simon, regarding the Buck Mason Hollywood trousers. have either you or Manish had experience with machine washing these? The BM salesperson mentioned that these are machine washable, but I was hoping for a first hand experience. Thanks!

MBB355

Hi Simon, any idea why the Rubato “collo Americano” knit polos are so much more expensive than those from Loumad, which look almost identical?

https://loumad.com/collections/new-collection

MBB355

Thanks. Any chance you can elaborate on likely quality differences? I think the brands’ similar designs but starkly different price points will lead other consumers to ask similar questions, and unfortunately neither brand’s website offers much clarity. Thanks again!

MBB355

Very helpful and interesting, thank you!

Richard S

On the chino sizing, it looks like you’ve gone up to 50 for the Anthology, compared to 48 in the PS Bruce. The sizing charts for the two are the same (at the waist) – did you find the Anthology ran a bit small, or is it maybe allowing for shrinkage?

K. Fitzgerald

Have your anthology chinos given at all in waist Simon? I’m debating between 48 and 50. 180 lbs and normally I wear a 34.

Max

Simon, thanks for sharing such nice pieces. Do you think you’d wear the Rubato shirt tucked in, or untucked? I don’t have any shirts like that, but do you think it would look good with things layered over it as well?
And this is kind of random, but in the photo, you’re holding a Paraboot box, I’m curious what you bought.

J

Did you also have a look at the ones in the taurillon leather? Would be interested in how the leather compares to the deerskin.

https://www.trunkclothiers.com/de/products/paraboot-barth-nubuck-boat-shoe-chocolate?srsltid=AfmBOoq9g7CKPAmRS7prIseXkvw6SCpbVI7k5ehMvGKT2lO8rCiQTrQm

Best

J

Peter

It is nice to get a commission on that lot. Presumably you are an affiliate but they are grossly overpriced for what they are and any sensible buyer will look elsewhere where they can buy quality for a lot less.

Raj

How’s the fit on the Anthology chinos? They seem to have a fairly narrow hem on the measurement chart. Their size chart also lacks a thigh measurement. Seems like they’re quite slim? Do you know how they compare in fit to their other casual pants like the civilman or linen drawstring?

Raj

Thank you so much.

A quick follow up – are you able to comment on how the seat and leg (thigh, hem, and taper) compare to the Rubato Officer’s Chino?

I have the Rubato in a 52 and find them already just borderline for my legs. I have been considering the Anthology option, but wonder if perhaps I should size up.

Raj

Thanks. So to be clear, more room in the thigh and seat, but with more taper and a narrower leg opening?

How do you rate their beige in terms of usefulness compared to the standard chino khaki?

Raj

As a follow up – how do you compare your Rubato chino to The Anthology version in terms of both preference and use scenario? Would you consider the civilman option in either use scenario instead?

Raj

Thank you. Could you please elaborate on what about the civilman shape you disliked?

Anonymous

Simon, re the Anthology Dress Chino – they llok great. Is the fabric a mid/3 season weight or more a summer/light -weight one?

Also re the rise. For a 54/38″ waist size the front rise is listed as 33.8cms/13.3″ ! This seems comically -high almost like trousers from a Hollywood film of the 1930’s/40’s.

I know you have clarified before that trouser rise alone does not confirm exactly where the trousers sit on the body as this can be also be inlfuenced by the overall design and cut of the trousers too.

In person do these chinos look excessively high in their rise or more a mid – high rise (as they appear to be in the photos) ?

Thank you.

Robert

Thanks for the great suggestions. Love the de Bonne Facture shirts but, although you list them at 271€, a UK buyer has to put up 340£ for the same shirt!!! That’s nothing to do with VAT – that’s just in the shopping cart. Very cheeky to say the least.
Rgds
Rob

Ed

does hollywood mean anything in particular? I remember edward sexton having some hollywood trousers years ago

JI

wow, allevol’s range seems to have increased greatly? glad to see it… some standout pieces to me are the inverellan stuff, the outerwear like the safari jacket, and the loopwheeled sweats. but prices seem to have gone up quite a bit? and also thanks for the native american jewellery recommendation.

Henrik

This is a chinos (Anthology) related question: these chinos have a long inseam – in other words it is necessary to hem the chinos. BUT – Anthology advices not to hem the chinos until they have been washed at least twice. How do you “cope” with this Simon? Do you wash the chinos twice – and then hem them OR do you wear the chinos with the hem “rolled up” (wash & wear twice) and then hem the chinos? I do the latter myself but i do not really feel comfortable walking aroung with these chinos rolled up because I think it looks sloppy…

Henrik

👍

BC

How casually does the De Bonne Fracture shirt wear? Will it work with shorts?

Many thanks.

Liam

I also have an Artist shirt that I do wear with a jacket (I have the olive cotton/hemp version). I think it works well – but it clearly is a workshirt with tailoring look that purposively foregoes the framing effects of a proper collar etc.

It will also depend on what size you get. I can wear both S and M in the Artist shirt. I wear an S in my cotton/hemp version (I had tried both before deciding), but I would wear an M in the spring/summer version that Simon features in the article.

Jake

Surprised Oak Street Bootmakers are being featured prominently given the FTC are alleging that they falsely claimed that products were “handcrafted 100%” in the USA.

Tore

Did any of you try the Rubato fatigue shirt, and/or the deck pants? If so, what are your impressions? How did the deck pants compare to the Bryceland’s ones, for instance (if you’ve tried or own those)? And did you get to try the new jeans line, the Lot nr. 2? Thanks!

Tore

Thanks!

Kuba

Hi Simon. On the Anthology chinos/trousers – do you take size 50 and then just take the waist in? Based on what I have seen, I feel we are similar size and 48 seems a touch narrow in leg from them, but 50 seems large in waist.. I have ordered from them before but HK returns not always straight forward so trying to see how you go about it. Thanks

Keith

On the Allevol sweatshirt, have you experienced any shrinkage after washing?

Sebastian

What should the proportions of shorts to shirt be?
Should the shorts be longer than the shirt (when tucked in)?
Our should the shorts take more optical space in order to make the legs look longer.
Assuming, of course, that the shorts stop over the knee. The knee should be visual.

Sebastian

Thank you for your answer, Simon. Sorry to be confusing.
I am currently having MTM short made. They will be high waist. The question is how should the shorts be? Should the sit just above the knee or even higher? Is there a good ratio of shirt to shorts?

Daniel

Hi Simon,
Did you get to try Rubato’s new linen t-shirts? If do, what were your thoughts on them? Considering picking one or two up since Tokyo summer is so unbearable.

jim

Slightly irrelevant to the topic but what is rubato yacht club collection? Are they designed to be worn on a yacht?

Henry

Simon, have you had a chance to try the Rubato RYC Yachtsman cardigan? If yes, what are your thoughts? Would you easily wear this kind of style?

https://www.atemporubato.com/products/ryc-yachtsman-navy

Guy W

Hi Simon, I noticed you were wearing the De Bonne Facture Long Mac Coat in your interview / article on their site. How do you find it in comparison to your Rider’s Raincoat?

I wasn’t able to snag the Rider’s before it sold out in my size, but I love the classic look of the DBF Mac, which appears to also have a lovely knee-length a-line silhouette, and it also looks a little more lightweight (which is possibly better for my climate)

Cheers!

Guy W

Thanks Simon. What didn’t you like about it, out of interest?

Guy W

Thanks Simon, much appreciated.

Any idea when you’ll restock the Rider’s?