Perro: The collection tried and reviewed
I don’t think Per and Rock (below) will mind me saying that when I first saw the products and looks coming from their new brand, Perro, they didn’t have a big impact on me.
The two of them - previously at menswear shops Linnegatan 2 and Sartorial respectively - had set up Perro offering knitwear and trousers, some shirts, and stocking other brands such as Bryceland’s.
The stories they told weren’t usually product-led (and I am always at heart, a product guy) while the shoots were nice, but didn’t have the kind of aesthetic vision of people like Rubato or Stoffa.
In fact, I think it says something interesting about how fashion is consumed today that you need this kind of visual identity to have an impact. Everyone and everything is online, and it doesn’t matter whether you’re in Seoul or Stockholm, you need something different to cut through.
That’s a pity, because it does make it harder to spot brands doing good product with a few nice touches, or ones just serving a local market particularly well.
This point about locality struck me when I spoke to Rock and Per on Zoom, last month.
Per was calling from the Perro shop, in Copenhagnen. Rock was at home in Amsterdam. Having never really considered Copenhagen from a fashion point of view, I asked Per what it was like.
“There’s a lot of interest in fashion here, and design in general,” he said, “but there’s little awareness of alternative ways to dress more smartly. We’ve had quite a few people interested in the products, but they usually don’t wear similar things at the moment - it’s a lot of streetwear.”
The core aim of Perro is offer an alternative: a capsule collection that isn’t streetwear, but isn’t tailoring either; that makes most people in Copenhagen looked more dressed up day to day, but also rather elegant at a meeting, a dinner, or any other social occasion.
That collection doesn’t have to be very new or unusual in international menswear. It just has to be better than what’s around the corner.
The day after we spoke, Per hosted a launch party for the new shop. We spoke again two weeks later, after I had been sent some pieces to try. It seemed the event had borne out Per’s hopes for the local reaction.
“It was interesting, we had a lot of creative types here - I think there were three or four photographers,” he said. “But few of them had seen much like this before. I guess it’s easy to forget that a lot of people live in a different bubble of brands and styles to yours.”
Of course, these are not PS readers. You are all well aware of the brands working what we have called a ‘casual chic’ aesthetic. Or you should be. If you’re not, read this and this. Plus maybe this.
So for all those readers - browsing Instagram and shopping online - what does Perro offer that’s different? Why plump for their trousers, shirts or knits over Anglo cottons, Armoury shirts or A&S sweaters?
I tried most of the product after our initial call, and then discussed my thoughts with Per and Rock afterwards, to get their reactions. This is my breakdown.
Starting with the trousers, Rock says they seem to fit everyone, or at least more than almost any others he’s worn. And once you try them in person, you can see why.
They’re a nice mid-rise, sitting just at the top of the hip bones - the perfect height as far as I’m concerned. Flattering, but not anachronistic or uncomfortable. A fairly average hem size of 20.5cm.
But the leg line is what makes them fit a lot of people - the thigh and knee are very generous, almost of the point of being a look. This means they’ll fit anyone with a bigger seat or thighs, while the taper stops them being a simple wide-legged trouser.
“I worked with a few brands previously, and the leg line was always so skinny,” says Rock. “They really didn’t fit many people. Plus the rise was either very low or very high, nothing in the middle.”
Per didn’t have quite the same issue, “but I really like the balance on the trousers - the way they’re generous but tapered. It took a while to get that right,” he said.
I tried the dark-brown cotton, and liked them so much I kept them. The material is also somewhere between a normal soft tailoring cotton and a tougher chino material (from Brisbane Moss), which appealed.
The knitwear is more varied.
The shetland jumpers have a fit that I really like too - wider in the chest, slimmer in the hem, like the heritage fit of Rubato but less extreme. That larger upper body is flattering, but it’s also long enough to go with any rise of trouser.
“The longer ribbing helps as well,” said Per. “And I like the fact that when the ribbing folds over, you still see a bit of it because of that length. The texture of the ribbing is an important part of the overall look, so it’s a shame if it’s hidden.”
I tried the rust-coloured shetland (above), but found the colour too bright for me. I might try the brown in the future.
The fit of the collared knit and the roll necks are the same, but without the extended ribbing. The crewnecks are more generic in make and fit, being from a different supplier.
The collared knit (above) I found had too large a collar and opening for me - not that it won’t find favour with others, but it was a bit too dramatic for my taste.
I actually thought the same would apply to the flannel shirts, but I was proved wrong.
They do have quite a large collar, but as soon as you wear it under a jacket for a few minutes (or, to force it, shape it with your fingers) the collar develops a pleasing roll, which rather shortens the length and makes it look more natural.
“I had the same fear when I first saw them,” said Per. “But they softened nicely. We still want it to be a collar that gets a reaction, but not one that looks too 2021, too fashion.”
The shirt is also designed to be worn both untucked and tucked-in, which is a hard balance to get right.
I found it worked on me, but I think it depends heavily on your physical proportions and trouser rise. If you’re shorter, a shorter length will look better when the shirt is untucked. But if you wear a lower rise, you need a longer length for the shirt to stay tucked in.
I could have worn a Medium or a Large (see the bottom of the post for other sizing details) but went with the Large so I could get enough length in the body. I reckoned I could always slim the body later if I wanted.
“Honestly, I think it’s interesting how much people are playing around with sizing these days,” says Per. “Guys can wear two, sometimes even three sizes - it’s just a question of the style they want. With formal clothing things are more ‘correct’, but less so with anything slightly casual.”
The shirt I tried was the brown puppytooth (below), which I’ve found is not the easiest colour to wear. It needs something like black, cream or maybe dark denim to create enough contrast (unless you’re going for the double puppytooth look). But it is a great colour when you do. I may look at the white in the future.
I hope that gives readers a sense of both what Perro is trying to do, and what is interesting about some of the products.
A slightly larger thigh or a collar that moulds are not the easiest things to get across on Instagram, but on PS we try to get a little deeper. A little more informed.
I know Rock and Per have been hit by lots of delays in the past two years trying to get their brand up and running. I wish them all the best in 2022, and hope they have fewer frustrations.
The Perro store at Ahornsgade 18 in Copenhagen is half store, half studio, and is only open on Thursdays and Fridays. The site is PerroOfficial.com.
Rock and Per are also holding some trunk shows, including one recently in Gothenburg, Sweden.
In the clothes I have mentioned, I went with a size Large in the safari shirt, a Medium in the sweaters, and a 48 in the trousers. The latter needed taking in about an inch in the waist, and hemming to length.
I’ve been a very regular visitor to the Scandi countries through my work over the last several years, and found the Danes to be the worst dressed/least stylish guys by far. Outside of the professions, business dress ended up becoming super tight jeans, and kind of shirt, and a suit jacket. It looked as though it was something people wore without giving a moment’s thought as to how it looked.
I wish these guys luck.
I really like the cut of the trousers. I certainly fit into the wider- thighed category and have had the common issue of suitable thigh fit being much too long in the leg.
Definitely in the ‘love’ category for the collared knit, both style and colour,Perfect excuse for a spring hop to Copenhagen.
Thank you for the signpost to a company I would otherwise miss. PS at its best.
Excellent products by two of the most genuine guys in the industry. Perhaps not the loudest visual marketing but I really hope that more people get to try their pieces because there are truly wonderful things to be found. I’ve been wearing the Boncura denim, the Perro collared knit and the Bryceland sawtooth shirt frequently the past few months and couldn’t be happier.
Good to know there finaly is an EU source for Brycelands’s Sawtooth!
Speaking of sources for Bryceland’s: does anybody know on whether there is another source for Brycelands stuff inside the EU, maybe one that stocks some other offerings?
There aren’t any other wholesalers, no, but I know they have been looking at some in the UK
Hi Simon, this is great as always, thank you.
One issue I’m having is the opposite fit problem to the one you outline. I’m a v slim build, and average height (5-9)
I find that most trousers that are appealingly classic in their hem opening are far too large in the seat and thigh. The slim-fit ones may fit better in the waist/seat/thigh but are then far too narrow at the hem/ankle.
Do you have any recommendations for brands catering to this slimmer build? Colhay’s was a particularly inspired shout – their crew necks are wonderful for the skinnier build – I’m just struggling to find the trouser equivalent.
Thanks Antony. I hadn’t thought about that actually, as most trousers do seem quite skinny in the mainstream.
Have you tried altering any of those trousers? Anything that only needs slimming in the leg line and waist (not seat) is easy, and you may be able to let out the skinny trousers in the hem as well, though not a lot if they’re RTW
Hey Antony,
I’m on the more skinny side (not super): 180cm and 68kg. I recently bought the sartorial rota trousers from Michael Jondral on size 46 and the fit was pretty good for me. Hope it helps
Hi Tamaki – thank you so much that’s really helpful. I will check it out!
The Perro trousers are probably the best fitting trousers I’ve bought of the rack. I usually get mine done MTM to accommodate my thighs but these fit beautifully just of the hanger. I just hade to get the length adjusted and waist slightly pinched. The make of them is also great and style wise they brilliantly make feel well dressed without feeling dressed up or overdressed.
Interesting when you write ….“a capsule collection that isn’t streetwear, but isn’t tailoring either” …..that’s something I’d certainly like to see more of on PS .
Tailoring is too formal and infrequently worn , streetwear is too much fashion .
On a separate note the photo of the trousers (7th photo) …. That’s the best way to show a pair of trousers . You really get to understand the shape , taper, thigh width etc .
So many trouser photos are just from the wrong angle .
Right , now I’m off to their website to have a good look at their stuff !
Good to hear Robin.
On that description of clothing, it is something we examined before under the name of casual chic.
There was also a piece highlighting how that has been worn in the past, here. And of course other brands like Rubato and Stoffa fit very much into that mould, and have been covered in previous articles.
Perro is a blend of Per and Rock. It also means ‘dog’ in Spanish. Given Per and Rock’s choice of pets, perhaps that’s why they chose it.
It sounds like it, yet it is curious: As a native Spanish speaker living in Denmark, I know that “perro” is not an easy word for Danes to pronounce.
I will have to swing by the shop soon!
A great article that made my find the brown trousers which i ordered to try them myself. Could you suggest some shoe pairs in the same category as the angloitalian boots ? I mean some that are not super formal for more casual wear.
Hi George,
Sure, so you mean something like desert boots? There are quite a lot of options like that out there, from quite smart and luxurious to quite casual. Alden is great if you want the more casual side
No i think i dont need more than two desert boots that i already have. Id be interested more in loafers or derbys or chelsea boots. The problem is that im going to a more casual direction but my shoes almost always dress the whole package up.
I see. I think a good understated loafer is a great way to go then, and perhaps a derby. Worth a look at the shoes capsule article, if you haven’t, even if it’s mostly smarter, just because it and the comments talk about the most versatile materials, shapes and so on.
Do you happen to know from which Brisbane Moss book the cloth comes from, please?
I don’t, but I will ask. Keep in mind that it might not be a range that’s sold by the metre though – I’m not sure they all are
I see, good point. I’ll wait if you’ll get a quote. Thank you
I heard back – it’s the Keats bunch
Thank you.
What do you think of the shoes they stock? I quite like those taupe low top pseudo mountaineering boots, though would prefer if they were normal length boots.
I haven’t tried most of the Soloviere models, except the Ray, which I found a little too unusual for my taste
“I don’t think Per and Rock (below) will mind me saying that when I first saw the products and looks coming from their new brand, Perro, they didn’t have a big impact on me.
The two of them – previously at menswear shops Sartorial and Linnegatan 2 respectively – had set up Perro offering knitwear and trousers, some shirts, and stocking other brands such as Bryceland’s.”
You should change the order of the two shops in the text since it was Per who used to work at Linnégatan 2 and Rock at Sartorial 😉
Thank you
These pants look perfect for people whose back forms a ” V ” placing them a little above the waist .
Hello Simon, since you kept the dark-brown trousers, could you please give some tips on what colours they would go well with? Thank you.
Sure, though they go with everything really, the only limit being brown shoes, or brown jackets on top.
Personally I don’t mind brown calf shoes with them, but black and tan are nice too, if you prefer more contrast.
Hi simon i understand you took the medium in perro polo. Can i ask how that fits in relation to your finest polo? Does it fit in between your medium and large or even bigger than your large you think? The find the chest and shoulder of perro polos tend to run much larger than any knitted polo i own though in a nice/slouchy way
I’d say between the two, yes, though the fit is different too – close in the waist but then blousier in the body
Hello Simon, do you know what Perro is up to? Mid November and they are still running their summer sale online?
I don’t, sorry Don
Just got the confirmation by Rock that there will be no new collection. They are just selling off the old products. Sad news.
Oh dear, that is a shame. Thank you Anders
Hi simon are yoh aware if perro is still in operation? Their email address seems faulty and they haven’t brrn updating their instagram
I don’t think it is, no. I know Rock has stepped back from the business, and I don’t think they’re adding new products
That is indeed disappointing to hear.
It’s just one person’s opinion, but their trousers in particular ticked all of the boxes for me. The fabrics, the style, small details such as the button fly configuration (without that surely ephemeral extended waistband), and being affordable.
I would be interested to read about how why it didn’t work out; not out of morbid curiosity but rather to know which combination of factors for a niche designer/vendor works and doesn’t work: selling uniquely one’s own designs (ie Rubato) vs offering other brands as well; having a larger scale operation (ie NMWA) or operating small; targeting the higher or lower end of the #menswear market; having a turbo-charged style (ie Brycelands) vs something more subtle.
Nice idea, if they or anyone else is up for that kind of very transparent conversation, I’ll certainly do something on it.
As much as anything, I find human factors are as much a cause as anything. As in, someone’s personal situation changes, or they just live in the wrong country to make physical retail work, or a supplier doesn’t work out for similar reasons. It’s often not the kind of thing that can just be a business-school case study, if you know what I mean
What happened to Perro? The website doesn’t seem to be working anymore.
They stopped unfortunately, Rock and Per discontinued it