Why does good knitwear pill?

November 22nd 2021

  Nobody wants pilling, so if your jumper pills it must be a sign of poor quality, right? Not necessarily. Finer, more luxurious knitwear is more delicate and takes more looking after. If you don’t care for it, it might pill more t...

Why does good knitwear pill?

Match in comments:
interesting article. I would like to contribute: I once had a conversation with Mr P.L.L-P., Loro Piana's vice-president and an absolute expert on textiles. He told me that there are two fibres that have reduced quality ...

KnitwearNovember 22nd 2021

Repair, recycle and de-pill knitwear: Cashmere Ci...

November 8th 2021

One of the good things about writing about caring for clothes, is that it spurs me to be better at it myself. I’m not too bad at most things, by the standards of Permanent Style. I brush and put cream on my shoes; I steam and brush my suits (...

Repair, recycle and de-pill knitwear: Cashmere Ci...

Match in comments:
No, sorry Joel. But bear in mind Smedley won't be using the finest merino in the world, just a very good one, and recycled cashmere often feels not quite as nice as the original, because the fibres are shorter...

KnitwearNovember 8th 2021

The guide to knitwear fibre: Wool, cashmere and c...

October 18th 2021

  One sweater says lambswool, the other says merino. What does that mean? What’s the difference? This cashmere sweater costs £30; this other one costs £300. Can they really be made of the same thing? In our first chapter of...

The guide to knitwear fibre: Wool, cashmere and c...

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I haven't had one, but I'd assume that, yes. Personally also, if I'm getting something from PL I'd go for a more unusual design, less of a basic....

KnitwearOctober 18th 2021

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

October 11th 2021

This year’s A/W Top 10 list includes a sprinkling of new names, but a lot of familiar ones too. I don’t think this is unexpected or unwelcome. The world of classic, crafted menswear is not large, primarily because men still don’t ...

Autumn/Winter Top 10: Wax, Ivy and secateurs

Match in comments:
No, they're a 2-ply which is standard yarn for this kind of polo knit. You could wear over a shirt or instead of one. However, they are different to a Smedley or a PS polo, which use much finer merino yarn. This is expla...

Casual clothing - DenimOctober 11th 2021

Comfortable yet elegant: A cosy winter combination

October 6th 2021

*Note: The source of the material for the trousers has been corrected, below. It was Zegna denim, not Loro Piana. Still not available though!* We haven’t done a simple outfit post in a while, so let’s talk about this one - worn for a rec...

Comfortable yet elegant: A cosy winter combination

Match in comments:
I think Colhay's and LF might be too thin on their own as an outer layer, as you say. The Rubato style can look great with a roll neck, if the length suits the trousers you wear and so on. I wouldn't have any concerns th...

Coats - KnitwearOctober 6th 2021

What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?

September 1st 2021

When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...

What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?

Match in comments:
SIMON, thank you for the well thought out advise and feedback. Hard for a label to be all things to all people...I do agree, choosing certain items from brands like Massimo can be a positive.....especially the items that...

Denim - KnitwearSeptember 1st 2021

The guide to types of knitwear: Gauge, end and ply

August 27th 2021

  As men start to dress more casually, knitwear is becoming ever more important. It’s more often the top layer of an outfit, and so holds greater responsibility to both flatter the wearer and reflect their style. It deserves proper...

The guide to types of knitwear: Gauge, end and ply

Match in comments:
I don't, sorry Joel...

KnitwearAugust 27th 2021

Desert boots (and knitwear, and bespoke) at Anglo...

June 4th 2021

Somehow, Jake and Anglo-Italian manage to keep relatively under the radar here in the UK, despite being one of the few classic-menswear shops keeping that spirit relevant. Perhaps it’s because they don’t actively seek out mainstream cov...

Desert boots (and knitwear, and bespoke) at Anglo...

Match in comments:
Nice! I'm wearing longer socks, but pretty much anything would work with desert boots like that Amit. I would more often wear a thicker ribbed sock to be honest...

Knitwear - ShoesJune 4th 2021

Introducing: The Finest Polo

May 19th 2021

This knitted polo we’re launching on the PS Shop today is in some ways just a short-sleeved version of the Dartmoor. It has the same finest-in-the-world make (hence the name), the same reinforced collar, and the same top-end merino. It is also...

Introducing: The Finest Polo

Match in comments:
The reason they behave differently is nearly entirely the material Noel, with the Finest Polo being stiffer from the twisted yarn. We are making a small change to the collar on the Dartmoor to do something similar, but i...

KnitwearMay 19th 2021

Rubato officer’s chinos: Review

May 14th 2021

I've come to really like these Rubato chinos, but it’s worth saying from the outset that they're not the originals. I had them narrowed after a few weeks, as I found the leg too wide. In the thigh it went from 33.5cm to 32cm, and in the hem f...

Rubato officer’s chinos: Review

Match in comments:
I do like olive chinos, but they're never going to be as versatile as khaki, because of the colours it goes with and because some pieces on top are likely to be olive. Doesn't mean they aren't great to have at home, but ...

Knitwear - TrousersMay 14th 2021

Dalmo made-to-measure cashmere

May 3rd 2021

In recent weeks we’ve talked about hand-framed knitwear - the slow knitting process used on knits like the Stoffa ribbed polo and the Saman Amel cricket sweater . I’ll do a more in-depth piece on the process later, but today I wanted to...

Dalmo made-to-measure cashmere

Match in comments:
Hello Lu, Could you by any chance name the ones in Turin?...

KnitwearMay 3rd 2021

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

April 30th 2021

1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

Match in comments:
Sure, it's here Henry...

Casual clothing - JacketsApril 30th 2021

Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review

March 31st 2021

Last week we discussed the fit of knitwear, using the example of a vintage-styled Stoffa knit to look at the current vogue for shorter, wider cuts. This week we have an interesting contrast: another made-to-measure piece, from Saman Amel, but in a ...

Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review

Match in comments:
I'm not sure to be honest Mullinan, as I prefer ones without colours really, like this or the Rubato version. If I were going to have colours, I'd probably go with dark and simple, like navy and green perhaps....

KnitwearMarch 31st 2021

Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...

March 17th 2021

Reviewing this jumper from Stoffa is a good opportunity to discuss the current trend of knitwear being cut shorter and wider, in something of a vintage style. The way knitwear is usually designed to work, the ribbing at the bottom sits on top of th...

Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...

Match in comments:
I sized up slightly, because they are quite slim....

KnitwearMarch 17th 2021

Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage leisure a...

February 15th 2021

The origins of the ‘casual chic’ look we’ve discussed in recent months - which I see as a route forward for relaxed yet smart menswear - can perhaps be seen in the leisure and sportswear of the 1930s. That era saw the growth of le...

Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage leisure a...

Match in comments:
Probably not Peter, just because there are some of that kind of thing on the market I think, but it’s good to have the suggestion, thank you...

Casual clothing - KnitwearFebruary 15th 2021

Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory

February 8th 2021

When we were talking about Loro Piana on a recent post, a reader inquired about the manufacture and what I knew about it. I thought it would be interesting, therefore, to publish in full this chapter from The Finest Menswear in the World , my book f...

Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory

Match in comments:
Fascinating. Can anyone tell me why their relatively simple looking “Hooded bomber jacket made from Wind fabric” (https://nl.loropiana.com/en/p/fw22/man/hooded-bomber-jacket-FAL3619?colorCode=W000) costs EUR 9,200? T...

KnitwearFebruary 8th 2021

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

February 5th 2021

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

Match in comments:
Thanks Lindsay, yes we mentioned that in a more recent post, the Spring Top 10. Thanks for adding it here though...

Casual clothing - CoatsFebruary 5th 2021

What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?

January 20th 2021

This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its own post. Anyone that has w...

What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?

Match in comments:
I wear the black under dark brown tweed, yes, and under greys sometimes as well as under dark olive. Navy is surprisingly tricky, and is mostly under navy and dark cold brown as you say. And navy suits, as here Of course...

KnitwearJanuary 20th 2021

New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel

December 23rd 2020

Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...

New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel

Match in comments:
I think you mean the review of the jacket they made for me, here, and the coverage of the trousers, here? I also covered knitwear here and a coat here...

Casual clothing - KnitwearDecember 23rd 2020

The height of knitwear: why necklines matter

December 18th 2020

A couple of weeks ago we talked about necklines on knitwear - as part of the article on mock necks . I thought it would be interesting to take a closer look at this, in particular the effect of different heights of crewneck. Just as with the colla...

The height of knitwear: why necklines matter

Match in comments:
I don't think the two are that comparable because the PS Rugby is that much thicker. I'd still take a 40 most of the time in the Colhays...

KnitwearDecember 18th 2020

The style and price of Berg & Berg

November 25th 2020

I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: he consistently demonstra...

The style and price of Berg & Berg

Match in comments:
I’ve been buying trousers and other items from them every season. I simply love the wool trousers they offer. Every single pair fits as perfectly as RTW can be on my body, and I have no complaints against the quality. ...

Knitwear - StyleNovember 25th 2020

The mock neck

November 20th 2020

I’m not sure about the mock neck. It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of knitwear became so ubiquitous...

The mock neck

Match in comments:
I don't really like that look with roll necks, but it's worse with mock necks, because you see so much of the collar. Or at least we can say, it's a more showy look that way...

Knitwear - November 20th 2020

New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...

October 12th 2020

Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and very relaxed and comfortable....

New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...

Match in comments:
No we don’t plan to at the moment, sorry. It’s hard to do it for everything...

KnitwearOctober 12th 2020

40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review

October 5th 2020

I’m pleased to say that the jumper and tie I had made by 40 Colori turned just as consistently and professionally as everything else I had experienced from the shop. The cashmere crewneck fits well, with the measurements being exactly what we...

40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review

Match in comments:
Knitted ties don't really vary much in quality, just type (thicknesses of silk, wool etc)...

Knitwear - TiesOctober 5th 2020

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

September 7th 2020

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

Match in comments:
I haven't tried it, but yes it would...

Casual clothing - CoatsSeptember 7th 2020