A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear
April 8th 2024By Manish Puri There’s not exactly a shortage of quality secondhand and vintage stores in Stockholm. Take a stroll along Hornsgatan for example - a busy road running through the Södermalm neighbourhood - and within just a few hundred metr...
A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear
Match in comments:
Hi Dario I had a similar dilemma when buying my coat from A. Marchesan. The advice a friend gave me was to not fixate on the secondhand price, but think about how much a new coat of similar style and quality would cost. ...
Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...
March 27th 2024Having met the Florentine tailor Vittorio Salino last summer, I took the opportunity of being in Florence this past January to commission a jacket. I got on with Vittorio, was impressed with his outlook, and realised PS readers would be interested i...
Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...
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My pleasure Nick, and really nice to hear...
My case for the lightweight English jacket
February 9th 2024By Aleks Cvetkovic. For much of my career I’ve felt like an anomaly, especially at the likes of Pitti or industry events. Principally this is because I’ve always chosen to wear structured tailoring, largely from London tailors, over the ...
My case for the lightweight English jacket
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What video was it?...
Cifonelli jacket: Finding a new home for good things
January 31st 2024One topic I thought it would be good to cover during Dry January was giving away clothes that you found - for whatever reason - no longer worked for you. Finding good homes for good things, essentially. A good example of this is the suede jacket th...
Cifonelli jacket: Finding a new home for good things
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It’s useful to note that almost everything we humans do is a form consumption construed in the very broadest sense of the concept (meaning: a use of planetary resources). Even the posting of that original comment was, ...
Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer
January 8th 2024This jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni has become one of my real favourites in the past couple of years, and I think it’s worth exploring why. It says something about where tailoring is today, at least for me. It was made in 2021 by Nicoletta C...
Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer
Match in comments:
Hey JJ, I have visited actually, and they have some nice things in there. I will be covering them soon. My review of their MTM jacket for me was actually not bad at all, it was just some lack of transparency over product...
The jacket-as-coat: Seiji’s commission from Tailo...
December 29th 2023When the shoemaker Seiji McCarthy came to New York recently to take part in our pop-up, he brought with him a recent commission from Tailor Caid, the Japanese bespoke tailor run by Yuhei Yamamoto. Yamamoto is a big enthusiast for mid-century America...
The jacket-as-coat: Seiji’s commission from Tailo...
Match in comments:
It would work well and wouldn't lose that much by being lighter, no. However, lighter than that and you're really looking at things like linens...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
November 29th 2023By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years. In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of bespoke - the slow production ...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
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Manish, which bespoke tailors, with an upper budget cap of £2500, can create a mid-night blue or within that ball-park a jacket designed for versatility and comfort, meeting the following specifications: a very relaxed,...
Reader profile: Sebastian
November 24th 2023Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in essence - always a little similar...
Reader profile: Sebastian
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Saman Amel does. P Johnson for some things...
Coherence: What we liked in January, that you can...
October 20th 2023When I walk around Pitti each season, interviewing makers and researching articles, it can be easy to feel lost in a flood of Italian cashmere and trainers that look like each other. For that reason there are a handful of brands I return to every t...
Coherence: What we liked in January, that you can...
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I wouldn't roll them up, at least on my cord one, as it would be too thick. On thinner materials you could turn them back, yes...
Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba
October 6th 2023By Manish Puri Bel y Cia opened in 1842 as a camiseria (shirt maker) on Passatge de Bacardí – a narrow walkway that connects Barcelona’s Las Rambla to Plaça Reial. Following the demolition of the city walls (1854-1866) and ...
Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba
Match in comments:
I'm not sure I have a brand I'd recommend to be honest Ric, and I'm not sure I've found one I like. I know ANderson & Sheppard do them though...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
September 27th 2023This jacket was made using fabric from the interiors house de Le Cuona . A previous one - in a beautiful but rather adventurous orange - was covered here last year . It’s the ‘Primitive’ quality of their linen, which is slubbier b...
Heavy, slubby, transitional linen jacket from Ciardi
Match in comments:
Thanks!!...
Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
August 9th 2023Speciale is a beautiful little shop in the west of London, making fine bespoke tailoring and unique shirts and knits. I should have covered Bert and George earlier and I haven't, and it's entirely my fault. My only excuse is location. Speciale is a...
Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
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I can try to, yes, although to be honest I'm not sure when. Speciale is very nice for bespoke but at the same time I wouldn't say the making is very different from most other Florentine tailoring we've covered, as far as...
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
July 24th 2023On Permanent Style we’ve always talked about dressing with subtle elegance - clothing that makes the wearer appear simply well dressed. This is still the style I get most pleasure from. It's a matter of good fit, quality materials, and tastefu...
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
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Yes, see my article here...
The Bores jacket: My Fox version
June 12th 2023The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen has been covered on PS before - it was reviewed by contributor Tony Sylvester in November last year. But seeing that jacket in person made me reconsider the style, and then when Christophe of Chato Lufsen - who ma...
The Bores jacket: My Fox version
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It's lovely, but it definitely gets used less than sports coats. I think that's personal though - there's no reason it couldn't be used just as much, it's just a style choice...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
June 7th 2023Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as well as wo...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
Match in comments:
Yes, good point Davide, his work is great...
Assisi bespoke double-breasted tweed: Review
May 17th 2023Readers who saw the first article on Assisi , the Korean tailor that made this tweed double-breasted jacket, were impressed with how the fit was looking, and they weren’t wrong. It’s a very well cut piece of bespoke, with a three-dimens...
Assisi bespoke tailors, Korea: Fitting a tweed DB
May 3rd 2023Assisi is a young tailoring house based in the Huam-dong area of Seoul. It was only established three years ago, but the tailor that leads it, Kim Min Soo, has been cutting for 15 years. Like most Korean tailors I’ve seen, the team are more s...
Assisi bespoke tailors, Korea: Fitting a tweed DB
Match in comments:
No, the sleevehead can be very natural still...
Rifugio’s old villa
March 17th 2023On a surprisingly warm, sunny day last January we visited the Art Deco villa that is Alfredo Rifugio's headquarters in Naples. It’s not what you expect for an Italian workshop. While there are lots of beautiful little tailors and cordwainers ...
Rifugio’s old villa
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No sorry, I didn't see any, they don't make them themselves I don't think...
Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review
March 8th 2023This bespoke jacket was made for me by Paolo Martorano, the tailor in New York I first covered in 2020 . It’s particularly significant because of the dearth of bespoke tailors in the US. Although many tailors travel to the US from the UK and ...
Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review
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No, sorry Ag, I did see it once but that was quite a while ago...
Introducing: The new Reversible Suede Bomber
February 22nd 2023The new version of our reversible suede bomber jacket - reversible so you can turn it inside out at the first hint of rain - is finally here. Much as I liked the previous version, the process of designing the Linen Harrington - essentially from scr...
Introducing: The new Reversible Suede Bomber
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The bomber is cut to be a slightly more relaxed fit, which actually I rather prefer now. I can see how that might feel a little new, but I would fit it could be OK. One thing to consider is the height of your trousers - ...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
January 23rd 2023By Manish Puri In between short walks to the kitchen to restock on mince pies and watching Home Alone for the 83 rd time (this genuinely may be an understatement), the festive period offers a singular opportunity to contemplate weighty matters conce...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
Match in comments:
Hi Manish, and thanks for this useful article! Do you know if the buttons are horn? They look like plastic in the photo, which seems shocking for such a high quality wool chore jacket, so I just want to make sure. The Fo...
How I wear a black tailored jacket
December 30th 2022This is the first piece of black tailoring that’s been featured on Permanent Style, I think, outside of evening wear. Over the past three years we’ve been exploring how black’s role in the wardrobe can be expanded, beyond tuxedos a...
How I wear a black tailored jacket
Match in comments:
Ah! That makes sense, Thank you Simon...
Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy
December 21st 2022Continuing our recent discussion of jacket replacements - chores, Tebas, safaris and the like - I've shot two of my favourite overshirts in order to talk about different types, and how they can fit into a wardrobe. The buffalo-check shirt above is ...
Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy
Match in comments:
Yes Aaron, I covered a great cashmere overshirt here. Did you see that? I'm not sure on the best fabric weight to be honest, but I'd probably go a touch lighter than a normal jacket...
Luxury chore coats compared
December 16th 2022By Manish Puri Not all chores are made equal. Some take longer, some require more exertion, and some involve going out into the cold. On a typical weekend you’ll find me frantically searching for loopholes in the chivalric code so I can cherry...
Luxury chore coats compared
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I actually think that's quite a nice mix for something like this that is meant to be technical, so more water resistant. It feels nice. I found it a bit too short for me, but then I'm above average height so it's always ...
Drake’s corduroy Mk.I Games Blazer: Review
December 9th 2022This is the Mk.1 Games Blazer from Drake’s in russet corduroy. To be honest, I’ve lost track of the numbers and which style each is, but the important thing is that this one's a fairly regular jacket with notched lapels - not the version...
