Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring

January 6th 2017

In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwieldy piece, so I thought I would ...

Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring

In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwield...

JacketsJanuary 6th 2017

Video: The Young Tailors Symposium

November 18th 2016

Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of each tailor varied. Each was als...

Video: The Young Tailors Symposium

Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of e...

Jackets - SuitsNovember 18th 2016

A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy

November 14th 2016

This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake's regarding corduroy. The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and the fit contemporary. But you...

A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy

This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake's regarding corduroy.  The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and...

Bags - CoatsNovember 14th 2016

Japanese tailors: Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica, V...

October 19th 2016

The Japanese tailoring tradition is relatively short. After all, until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, almost no western-style tailoring was worn in the country. The Restoration made western dress required for courtiers and bureaucrats, and increasin...

Japanese tailors: Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica, V...

The Japanese tailoring tradition is relatively short. After all, until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, almost no western-style tailoring was worn in the country. The Restoration made western dress required for courtiers ...

JacketsOctober 19th 2016

Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket

October 10th 2016

This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece that will wear in beautifully. As...

Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket

This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece tha...

JacketsOctober 10th 2016

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

August 29th 2016

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight pique-cotton shirt made by Luc...

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight pique-co...

Jackets - KnitwearAugust 29th 2016

A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer

August 20th 2016

Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be that consistent. I'd suggest that of those brig...

A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer

Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be that consistent....

Cloth - JacketsAugust 20th 2016

Richard James bespoke tailoring

August 12th 2016

Richard James are an interesting name in bespoke tailoring. Better known for ready-to-wear suits and various accessories, they’ve actually had a bespoke operation since they set up – in a small shop at 31 Savile Row – over 20 years...

Richard James bespoke tailoring

Richard James are an interesting name in bespoke tailoring. Better known for ready-to-wear suits and various accessories, they’ve actually had a bespoke operation since they set up – in a small shop at 31 Savile Row...

Jackets - TrousersAugust 12th 2016

Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring

July 25th 2016

We covered the appeal of cotton as a tailoring material generally last week, but didn't talk about the different types of cottons. There are corduroys and moleskins of course, gabardines and seersucker. But a difference I find particularly interesti...

Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring

We covered the appeal of cotton as a tailoring material generally last week, but didn't talk about the different types of cottons. There are corduroys and moleskins of course, gabardines and seersucker. But a differenc...

Cloth - JacketsJuly 25th 2016

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

May 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility of denim) a lot of the themes ...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear.  Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility...

Casual clothing - DenimMay 31st 2016

Sky-blue tweed jacket from Steven Hitchock

May 24th 2016

A couple of readers e-mailed yesterday to ask about the jacket I was wearing in the images of visiting Simonnot-Godard. It is the jacket I had made by Steven Hitchcock back in 2012 - a sky-blue tweed from Holland & Sherry's Harris Tweed bun...

Sky-blue tweed jacket from Steven Hitchock

A couple of readers e-mailed yesterday to ask about the jacket I was wearing in the images of visiting Simonnot-Godard.  It is the jacket I had made by Steven Hitchcock back in 2012 - a sky-blue tweed from Holland &a...

JacketsMay 24th 2016

Trousers to wear with grey jackets – Reader...

May 19th 2016

Hello Simon I am struggling with a lighter grey jacket like in your Caliendo denim post, or a navy jacket. Are they really that versatile to be the top 2 odd jacket colours? (As you mentioned in your oatmeal jacket post.) What are the trouser colou...

Trousers to wear with grey jackets – Reader...

Hello Simon  I am struggling with a lighter grey jacket like in your Caliendo denim post, or a navy jacket. Are they really that versatile to be the top 2 odd jacket colours? (As you mentioned in your oatmeal jacket po...

Jackets - StyleMay 19th 2016

Introducing the new Permanent Style

May 10th 2016

I am proud to say that at the end of this week we will be launching a brand new Permanent Style website. The content will be the same, but it will be more expansive, modern and easier to browse. It’s been a long time in the works, but I&a...

Introducing the new Permanent Style

  I am proud to say that at the end of this week we will be launching a brand new Permanent Style website. The content will be the same, but it will be more expansive, modern and easier to browse. It’s been a lon...

Jackets - May 10th 2016

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, mad...

April 29th 2016

This is the first article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard What’s the difference between bespoke, MT...

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, mad...

This is the first article in our  Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. Bespoke suit, Anderson & Sheppard   What’s the diffe...

Jackets - SuitsApril 29th 2016

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from El...

April 13th 2016

This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great, in: a rougher, preppy herrin...

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from El...

   This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be gre...

Jackets - ShoesApril 13th 2016

Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours

April 4th 2016

There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit. But aside from the extremes, I would argue proportions...

Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours

   There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit.  But aside from the ex...

Jackets - StyleApril 4th 2016

Drake’s soft, stylish jackets

March 30th 2016

Drake’s will always be best known for their ties, then handkerchiefs, then perhaps knitwear. But for the past few years they have also been doing a nice little range of jackets in the Clifford Street store that deserve attention. (£895...

Drake’s soft, stylish jackets

   Drake’s will always be best known for their ties, then handkerchiefs, then perhaps knitwear. But for the past few years they have also been doing a nice little range of jackets in the Clifford Street store that de...

Casual clothing - JacketsMarch 30th 2016

How wide should my jacket lapels be?

March 21st 2016

A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions. As you can see from the images below, some lapels are wider than others, but t...

How wide should my jacket lapels be?

   A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions.  As you can see from the images below, some lapels...

JacketsMarch 21st 2016

Bespoke suede jacket – Cifonelli

March 14th 2016

This finished suede jacket from Cifonelli shows the beautiful breadth of what bespoke tailoring can do. Bespoke is not just for business suits; it is not just for casual jackets; it is for anything that benefits from hand-cut line and structure. ...

Bespoke suede jacket – Cifonelli

   This finished suede jacket from Cifonelli shows the beautiful breadth of what bespoke tailoring can do.  Bespoke is not just for business suits; it is not just for casual jackets; it is for anything that benefits ...

Casual clothing - JacketsMarch 14th 2016

The in-between (pub, weekend) jacket from Stile L...

January 1st 2016

As on Wednesday, so today. A piece made to measure by Neapolitan brand Stile Latino, with similar attractions. As with the completely unstructured coat we featured on Wednesday, this jacket is: An effective bridge between the formal and the casua...

The in-between (pub, weekend) jacket from Stile L...

   As on Wednesday, so today. A piece made to measure by Neapolitan brand Stile Latino, with similar attractions.  As with the completely unstructured coat we featured on Wednesday, this jacket is: An effective bridg...

Casual clothing - JacketsJanuary 1st 2016

Making a bespoke suede jacket

December 1st 2015

Quite a few people asked how my suede Cifonelli jacket was being made – on the blog, on Instagram, on Facebook. And by email, with two separate tailors asking for advice to make one for their clients. Key to the questioning was how you ...

Making a bespoke suede jacket

   Quite a few people asked how my suede Cifonelli jacket was being made – on the blog, on Instagram, on Facebook. And by email, with two separate tailors asking for advice to make one for their clients.  Key to...

Casual clothing - JacketsDecember 1st 2015

Video: How to press a jacket

November 5th 2015

Our latest video on suit maintenance may be the most useful of the lot: How to press your a jacket at home. In the video, Richard is at pains to point out that a lot of the pressing process cannot be replicated at home. Customers would need a hig...

Video: How to press a jacket

   Our latest video on suit maintenance may be the most useful of the lot: How to press your a jacket at home.  In the video, Richard is at pains to point out that a lot of the pressing process cannot be replicated at...

Alterations and care - JacketsNovember 5th 2015

Cifonelli bespoke suede jacket

October 23rd 2015

One area that fascinates me – perhaps more than any other – in my writing is the overlap between formal tailoring and more casual dress. If it is possible to retain the beautiful craft aspects of bespoke tailoring in casual clothing, a...

Cifonelli bespoke suede jacket

   One area that fascinates me – perhaps more than any other – in my writing is the overlap between formal tailoring and more casual dress. If it is possible to retain the beautiful craft aspects of bespoke tailori...

Casual clothing - JacketsOctober 23rd 2015

Wearing a jacket and jeans

October 12th 2015

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital industries often have this prob...

Wearing a jacket and jeans

   If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital...

Casual clothing - JacketsOctober 12th 2015

Checked jackets and accessories

September 7th 2015

This was taken during a recent photo shoot for Plaza Uomo magazine in Sweden. I think the only time I have shown the jacket before I wore it open-necked (blue shirt and navy crew neck, with charcoal trousers). It is not an easy pattern to accessor...

Checked jackets and accessories

   This was taken during a recent photo shoot for Plaza Uomo magazine in Sweden. I think the only time I have shown the jacket before I wore it open-necked (blue shirt and navy crew neck, with charcoal trousers). It i...

Jackets - StyleSeptember 7th 2015