The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
November 30th 2022I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often. It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket. It has the distinctive lapel s...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
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A little, but I was thinking more the material, as the linen for a piece like this would be more a tailoring-type linen and quite sharp...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
November 23rd 2022In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
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Lining would help a little, in that it would make it heavier, but really the issue with that kind of tailoring material is that it's designed to have more of a jacket structure to it - canvas and so on...
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen: Review
November 11th 2022By Tony Sylvester Earlier this year, some readers may remember, I joined Simon and photographer Alex Natt on a jaunt to Paris . I spent the day investigating and chasing ghosts of the cult Parisian brand Arnys, visiting with their old designer Domin...
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen: Review
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Yes and yes, cheers Ant...
Reader profile: Shun
October 17th 2022With the PS reader profiles, we’re always looking to add something different - a different style, a different age, hopefully at some point a different location. Although Shun’s love of classic menswear will be shared by many, he is a li...
Reader profile: Shun
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They're good quality and good value, but most of the styles are too chunky for me personally...
My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...
October 5th 2022This Anderson & Sheppard jacket is part of a suit I had made over 10 years ago. When I wrote back in January about my ‘ favourite clothes ever ’, I named it my favourite ever piece of bespoke. It is therefore a good candidate for...
My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...
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- No, that isn't usually the case. Most tailors prefer two or four and use those across both suits and jackets - No I didn't change these - It doesn't matter that much, no. Four is a little stronger, but I've never had a...
Sartoria Giuliva and Giuliva Heritage: Inspiratio...
October 3rd 2022Gerardo Cavaliere is someone whose style I've admired for a while, but rarely had a chance to talk to for more than a few moments at an event. While Milad and I were in Rome recently, therefore, I spent some time with Gerardo and his partner Margar...
Sartoria Giuliva and Giuliva Heritage: Inspiratio...
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Yes, absolutely...
Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain
August 29th 2022In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city. The individual pieces should be pretty familiar: cotton double-breasted jacket from Ferdinando Carac...
Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain
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So I guess the pair I pick for the trip is mostly about which is the most versatile and so useful for different outfits, rather than caring too much about a small point of fit. In terms of avoiding relegating trousers li...
Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations
August 22nd 2022By Tony Sylvester From the kilo stores to the more specialised outlets, Paris is a city with an enviable array of vintage menswear options. This spring, Simon filed reports on two of the best. Le Vif in the 16th, with its highly curated focus on Ame...
Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations
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The Japanese brand Workers is currently doing a Forestiere in brown corduroy. I tried one on and was tempted but decided I'd been buying too many things in brown and corduroy recently....
Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring
August 3rd 2022Rome doesn’t have the menswear reputation of Milan, Florence or Naples. But there are some unusual little gems nestled in different parts of the city. One of the most interesting is Atelier Bomba. Started by Cristina Bomba in 1980, it has a r...
Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring
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My pleasure, let me ponder that!...
Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...
July 29th 2022How do I feel about orange? This linen looked more like a terracotta red when it was a swatch, but let’s face it, it’s orange. Fortunately I rather like it. Strong colour isn’t normally my thing, but when I do wear it, I prefer the...
Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...
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My apologies George. Yes I chose Anderson & Sheppard for this because I had liked so much my blue linen jacket from them. It is not a casual jacket as a result, but given the colour I'm not sure I would ever have worn it...
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
July 11th 2022The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too. It's often used as a sign of ‘real&r...
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
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Thank you for the education....
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
June 27th 2022By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket seemed off the beaten track. But...
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
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No worries. No, there's not much difference between those two, but yes you can usually remove the logo patch...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...
June 22nd 2022This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the differen...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...
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I prefer it without a pattern myself, but I think that's because I prefer subtler styles wherever possible - I don't really wear many checked jackets for that reason for example. So it is personal too...
Dominique Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit...
June 20th 2022By Tony Sylvester Roughly three years ago I wrote a piece for the Drake’s in-house magazine Common Thread. Given a free rein on any subject I wanted to talk about, I’d started ruminating on the similarities between French and English sty...
Dominique Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit...
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I know these post were from a few years back but I simply must try to get some info . I came across a Artumes & co jacket ,I didn’t know a thing about it but I liked it and knew it was a mans jacket . It’s three ...
Reader profile: Cedric
June 17th 2022Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has a depth of interest in Americ...
Reader profile: Cedric
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I know what you mean Leif. I would say that, at least in my context, it's more swinging towards the seventies when done well, as basically no one does. If the fit and cut are done well, and perhaps there's a little extra...
Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...
June 1st 2022The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself. Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle relative to the other shoulde...
Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...
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Good point Edward. I have, but you need a collar that's a little higher than most, so it is actually taller than the jacket collar. Also, it helps if it's the structure of shirt I generally favour - lightweight fusing. T...
Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review
May 18th 2022This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review. The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Market. And it was to check th...
Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review
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Yes, they have some of the dupioni in the upholstery range...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
May 16th 2022Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
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Nice hat, Lock an co are the best, pity it does not quite fit...
The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...
May 11th 2022When I first had a bespoke suit made at Anderson & Sheppard, 12 years ago, the head cutter John Hitchcock made a paper pattern for me. This pattern is one of the fundamentals of what makes bespoke, bespoke. Or rather, it’s the fact th...
The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...
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Interesting, yes they are still put on the bias as far as I know...
This feels like me
May 2nd 2022I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not even a proper shirt, just a po...
This feels like me
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It sounds like you've built some really good foundations there Daniel. I'd say a mid-grey herringbone would be a good choice, but as a jacket not a suit, with a different colour of separate trouser perhaps - dark brown? ...
The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...
April 29th 2022A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned. I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow this rule ...
The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...
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I thought it was a "hump"....
The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender
April 20th 2022It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown. So rejoice, there are n...
The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender
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Regarding Trumpers. Apart from ordering a tub of Almond Shaving Cream which is utterly superb and highly concentrated in a very generous 200g tub... probably the best value of all the prestige London barbers, I asked for...
Introducing: The Linen Harrington
April 13th 2022I used to have a linen bomber jacket from Hermes . It was a beautiful piece of clothing, lightweight and cool, and I loved wearing it with both shorts and tailoring in the summer. Unfortunately the design had some flaws (in my view); it had a tiny ...
Introducing: The Linen Harrington
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I think a 3. The Bridge Coat and reversible come up small, whereas I'd say this is more true to size....
J Mueser made-to-measure jacket: Review
April 6th 2022Jake Mueser made me this made-to-measure jacket over the past six months, entirely remotely. We had one hiccough, but the result was still good and I’d recommend it. It is a solid MTM jacket, in an unusual cloth that I think also highlights J...
J Mueser made-to-measure jacket: Review
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Natural myself, and that's what I went with...
Fred Nieddu belted suede jacket: Review
March 30th 2022This is the belted suede jacket I had made earlier this year by Fred Nieddu , based on film and bespoke pieces he had made while cutter at Timothy Everest. It’s quite an unusual style, but after a couple of months of wearing it in different p...
Fred Nieddu belted suede jacket: Review
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I think it depends on the style of the jacket, but also it would be a slightly more luxe look, which might be your style or might not...
