William Crabtree made-to-measure cord jacket: Review
February 23rd 2022This is a made-to-measure corduroy jacket from William Crabtree , the shop in Marylebone run by James Priestley. We covered William Crabtree previously here , looking at a MTM chore suit. James also offers a very well-priced MTM tailoring programme...
William Crabtree made-to-measure cord jacket: Review
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I think you've hit the nail on the head there Nico - it's almost entirely associations, rather like other rural things like bright-red trousers and tweed caps....
Reader profile: Daniel
February 14th 2022Meet Daniel. A regular at the pop-up shop, and a man who knows more about wine glasses than you’d care to ask. It’s fair to say that Daniel appreciates good clothes, and knows what styles he likes. But he doesn’t obsess about it. ...
Reader profile: Daniel
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I like that look as well. However, what colour are the trousers - dark navy, dark brown, dark green? Surprisingly difficult to tell from the photos....
Chapal USAAF jacket: How great things age
February 9th 2022I think this Chapal jacket holds the record for the review most frequently requested, yet never fulfilled. I do apologise – the past two winters I have meant to shoot and cover it, and things have always got in the way. The upsi...
Chapal USAAF jacket: How great things age
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I would concentrate on having a body length and sleeve length that works for you, perhaps shoulders and hem size too. The chest and rest of the body are hard to gauge...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
February 7th 2022By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as characteristics, is l...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
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Manish/ Simon, I don’t suppose you’ve ever tried the Sunspel unstructured blazer? At £350, it seems to me pretty cheap compared to where the majority of their products sit in terms of pricing (although I’m no expe...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
January 31st 2022I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 product recommendations from...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
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Perhaps look in the perfume category in the menu? There are many articles there including one summarising the few I recently cut down to...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
January 19th 2022Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, sometimes admiringly, referred to a...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
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Have you tried Bryceland's Hal? That might work well for you. There's more space on the thighs but still with a nice taper...
Reader profile: Mattia
January 17th 2022I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends, about their studies and the...
Reader profile: Mattia
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I loved reading this and I love Mattia's style. As someone who doesn't earn a lot of money most of my reading here is pipe dream stuff. But me and mattia are on the same boat - there is a way to dress well for under 3k! ...
Lutays made-to-order jacket: Review
December 22nd 2021Lutays is a French brand making casual jackets in a couture workshop in France. It was started by Jean-Baptiste Rosseeuw (above), whom readers might know from his previous job at glove maker Lavabre Cadet. JB - as he is known to those that know him...
Lutays made-to-order jacket: Review
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An overshirt is just a shirt, but a shirt in a heavier material and perhaps with pockets, such that it doesn't look too flimsy 'over' something else. A work jacket will probably be in a much tougher material, shorter and...
Reader profile: Ben C
December 10th 2021I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
November 3rd 2021Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else. So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run through what I think of each mo...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
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Blimey. Yes I think you're right Markus, and it's very interesting to hear that journey. It's why I think what I've called ' casual chic' is so practical a lot of the time - it's less about whether you wear chinos or not...
Reader Profile: Andrew
October 27th 2021This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish , who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. And the s...
Reader Profile: Andrew
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I also used to wear Malle Cologne Indelebile in the summer quite frequently. I liked it because it is light and citrusy which I think it nice for the summer. But I finished the bottle and never got around to replacing it...
The jackets I picked for winter
October 20th 2021A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
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I had my colours done years ago, but to be honest I can't remember. As we discussed here, I'm not sure it's that useful On picking five, have you seen the articles on that subject in the Wardrobe Building guide?...
Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review
October 13th 2021This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt. In our previous article , I made the case for Brioni as a besp...
Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review
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Thanks Alan, that's great...
The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’
October 4th 2021Fred Nieddu (above) recently set up on his own under the name ‘taillour’ (an Old French term for tailor), having previously been the bespoke cutter at Timothy Everest in London. However, chances are you will have seen Fred’s work ...
The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’
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Where is his jewelry from (bracelet and rings)?...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
September 22nd 2021A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it. Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand made to measure have not alwa...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
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I see. To be honest I'm not sure size is a great indicator of that either - you only have to look at Michael Browne, one of the smallest but with a really strong reputation. Equally Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, whom I really ...
The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)
September 17th 2021I have this image in my mind. Of a man meeting a good friend for brunch on a Sunday morning. A man that dresses as I want to: considered and tasteful, not showy or sloppy. He's looking forward to a coffee. He carries a newspaper under his arm in ca...
The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)
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Thank you!...
Matching checks on a jacket
September 10th 2021Checked jackets are always a lot of fun for tailoring discussions. Nothing makes you look harder at a fabric than working out the advantages and disadvantages of check arrangements. The jacket above - first shown in our recent article on the new PS ...
Matching checks on a jacket
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Good question, I'm not sure actually. I think that would be the starting point, the placement the tailor would start with. But it might not be possible, perhaps, if the customer was stooped, so the back had to be rather ...
The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65
August 30th 2021This might be our last piece on summer clothing this year, and I wanted to use it to talk about one of my most useful pieces of the last few months - this vintage ‘jungle jacket’. I bought it two years ago, at the now sadly closed Vinta...
The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65
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Hey Ryan, Sounds wonderful, and absolutely on alterations tailors - see our page here for people we recommend. Worth bookmarking...
Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers
August 16th 2021We used to do a lot of posts called ‘ Reader questions’. Someone asked recently what happened to them. Well, we still do them - it’s just that the site is now so big that posts normally reflect a half dozen readers asking similar ...
Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers
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Many thanks...
Adret ‘Jack’ bomber jacket: Review
August 11th 2021Although there has been quite a bit of coverage of Adret in the past two years (including on PS), pictures of the clothes in the wild are rare. I thought it would be useful to shoot my most significant purchase from Adret, therefore, and reflect up...
Adret ‘Jack’ bomber jacket: Review
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Thank you Christopher. If I'm honest I think that's unlikely, but I'm sure they'll do a good job in what they create. And thank you, that's much appreciated...
Artists’ clothing: Comfortable, practical, modern
August 6th 2021By Tony Sylvester Sitting down to write today, I am wearing my favourite recent piece of clothing. Brand new from Bryceland’s, the knee-length linen Farmer’s Smock (below) might be a bit of a departure from what you expect from the desig...
Artists’ clothing: Comfortable, practical, modern
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An artist look I like on myself is white painters trousers. I have a loose fitting pair by Ralph Lauren. I can wear them in a variety of ways with shirts, leather belts, leather shoes, canvas Sperry CVO, boat shoes, t-sh...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
July 12th 2021*UPDATE: Since this article was published, Brioni has also been tried and reviewed, as has J Mueser* Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton ...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
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Not really I'm afraid - the more formal cut is a little underserved for MTM. It's much easier to get softer Italian stuff, largely because all the factories are there...
MTM chore suit from William Crabtree: Review
July 5th 2021I know from experience that casual jackets often involve a compromise, for me. Usually one size will be perfect on the neck, waist and sleeve, but another will be better on the shoulders, chest and body length. Basically, I’m a little taller ...
MTM chore suit from William Crabtree: Review
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I haven't Zy, but Manish covered it in this article...
The T-shirt under tailoring
May 26th 2021I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly. Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert t...
The T-shirt under tailoring
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Thanks for your time and input....
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
April 30th 20211. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
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Thanks Simon!...
