Why buy ‘modern’ vintage?
February 25th 2022Rag Parade in Sheffield sells quite a lot of ‘modern’ vintage clothing (let’s call it 1980 onwards, for the sake of argument) as well as more standard militaria and workwear from earlier decades. I was interested to know what the ...
William Crabtree made-to-measure cord jacket: Review
February 23rd 2022This is a made-to-measure corduroy jacket from William Crabtree , the shop in Marylebone run by James Priestley. We covered William Crabtree previously here , looking at a MTM chore suit. James also offers a very well-priced MTM tailoring programme...
William Crabtree made-to-measure cord jacket: Review
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I think you've hit the nail on the head there Nico - it's almost entirely associations, rather like other rural things like bright-red trousers and tweed caps....
Reader profile: Daniel
February 14th 2022Meet Daniel. A regular at the pop-up shop, and a man who knows more about wine glasses than you’d care to ask. It’s fair to say that Daniel appreciates good clothes, and knows what styles he likes. But he doesn’t obsess about it. ...
Reader profile: Daniel
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I like that look as well. However, what colour are the trousers - dark navy, dark brown, dark green? Surprisingly difficult to tell from the photos....
Chapal USAAF jacket: How great things age
February 9th 2022I think this Chapal jacket holds the record for the review most frequently requested, yet never fulfilled. I do apologise – the past two winters I have meant to shoot and cover it, and things have always got in the way. The upside of the d...
Chapal USAAF jacket: How great things age
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Hey Zawaad, Given it's between those two, I'd think it would probably be a good size, yes. Sorry it's hard to give that advice remotely Zawaad - when we're in New York next show me in person! S...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
February 7th 2022By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as characteristics, is l...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
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No worries, and yes cuffing might be ok on such a casual jacket...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
January 31st 2022I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 product recommendations from...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
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Oh good, that's lovely to hear Jack...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
January 19th 2022Denim shirts can often be the saviour of classic menswear - adding an obvious casual, even democratic touch to tailoring . But when should you wear a denim shirt with jeans? When put on what is sometimes snidely, sometimes admiringly, referred to a...
Double denim – in new Anthology tweed jacket
Match in comments:
Yes, it is and I would go for an English tailor...
Reader profile: Mattia
January 17th 2022I met Mattia during our recent pop-up shop on Savile Row. A Permanent Style reader, he is also a fashion student, which gives him an interesting perspective on classic menswear. I enjoyed talking to him, and his friends, about their studies and the...
Reader profile: Mattia
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I loved reading this and I love Mattia's style. As someone who doesn't earn a lot of money most of my reading here is pipe dream stuff. But me and mattia are on the same boat - there is a way to dress well for under 3k! ...
Lutays made-to-order jacket: Review
December 22nd 2021Lutays is a French brand making casual jackets in a couture workshop in France. It was started by Jean-Baptiste Rosseeuw (above), whom readers might know from his previous job at glove maker Lavabre Cadet. JB - as he is known to those that know him...
Lutays made-to-order jacket: Review
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An overshirt is just a shirt, but a shirt in a heavier material and perhaps with pockets, such that it doesn't look too flimsy 'over' something else. A work jacket will probably be in a much tougher material, shorter and...
Reader profile: Ben C
December 10th 2021I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
November 3rd 2021Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else. So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run through what I think of each mo...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
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Probably matte-black linen, though silk varies a fair bit so it's hard to say much about it without seeing it in person...
Reader Profile: Andrew
October 27th 2021This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish , who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. And the s...
Reader Profile: Andrew
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David - did you ever end up commissioning a suit or jacket with T&G? Do you visit Rome often? I was wondering because I saw that you are in LA, and I thought it may be difficult to do a bespoke commission on vacation...
The jackets I picked for winter
October 20th 2021A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
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I had my colours done years ago, but to be honest I can't remember. As we discussed here, I'm not sure it's that useful On picking five, have you seen the articles on that subject in the Wardrobe Building guide?...
Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review
October 13th 2021This Brioni jacket was made for me under their bespoke programme, using the London store on Bruton Street. We also made a pair of cotton trousers, which I cover lower down, and a shirt. In our previous article , I made the case for Brioni as a besp...
Brioni bespoke jacket and trousers: Review
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To be honest I disagree a little there, Fe. I think good bespoke has always been a mix of the house style and the preferences of the customer, and if anything one of the things bespoke houses have lost in recent years is...
The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’
October 4th 2021Fred Nieddu (above) recently set up on his own under the name ‘taillour’ (an Old French term for tailor), having previously been the bespoke cutter at Timothy Everest in London. However, chances are you will have seen Fred’s work ...
The work of Fred Nieddu, ‘Taillour’
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No I wouldn't agree to be honest Louis. Machine stitching can be stronger and aesthetically it can also be more in keeping with the garment. It varies a lot with what you're making and the style you're after. With a smar...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
September 22nd 2021A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it. Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand made to measure have not alwa...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
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Generally to stick with one tailor...
The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)
September 17th 2021I have this image in my mind. Of a man meeting a good friend for brunch on a Sunday morning. A man that dresses as I want to: considered and tasteful, not showy or sloppy. He's looking forward to a coffee. He carries a newspaper under his arm in ca...
The suede overshirt (or shirt-jacket, or shacket)
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I do have it, and I do really like it for the weight of the suede. But, I wear the PS version more and I think that sounds like it would suit your use case more...
Matching checks on a jacket
September 10th 2021Checked jackets are always a lot of fun for tailoring discussions. Nothing makes you look harder at a fabric than working out the advantages and disadvantages of check arrangements. The jacket above - first shown in our recent article on the new PS ...
Matching checks on a jacket
Match in comments:
Good question, I'm not sure actually. I think that would be the starting point, the placement the tailor would start with. But it might not be possible, perhaps, if the customer was stooped, so the back had to be rather ...
The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65
August 30th 2021This might be our last piece on summer clothing this year, and I wanted to use it to talk about one of my most useful pieces of the last few months - this vintage ‘jungle jacket’. I bought it two years ago, at the now sadly closed Vinta...
The jungle jacket: Summer’s M65
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Thank you...
Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers
August 16th 2021We used to do a lot of posts called ‘ Reader questions’. Someone asked recently what happened to them. Well, we still do them - it’s just that the site is now so big that posts normally reflect a half dozen readers asking similar ...
Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers
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I think that sounds like a great decision Christoffer...
Adret ‘Jack’ bomber jacket: Review
August 11th 2021Although there has been quite a bit of coverage of Adret in the past two years (including on PS), pictures of the clothes in the wild are rare. I thought it would be useful to shoot my most significant purchase from Adret, therefore, and reflect up...
Adret ‘Jack’ bomber jacket: Review
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They are, I haven't got it to hand but I'd say it's around 30L...
Artists’ clothing: Comfortable, practical, modern
August 6th 2021By Tony Sylvester Sitting down to write today, I am wearing my favourite recent piece of clothing. Brand new from Bryceland’s, the knee-length linen Farmer’s Smock (below) might be a bit of a departure from what you expect from the desig...
Artists’ clothing: Comfortable, practical, modern
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I inadvertently dressed this way and then it became trendy… I think there is something with being innately rebellious Englishman that makes you want to throw out the suit and tie and grab something you can actually liv...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
July 12th 2021*NOTE: This article has now largely been superseded by the 2025 piece ' Who are my favourite made to measure tailors?' Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good r...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
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Hi Martins, Many thanks for your comments here!...
MTM chore suit from William Crabtree: Review
July 5th 2021I know from experience that casual jackets often involve a compromise, for me. Usually one size will be perfect on the neck, waist and sleeve, but another will be better on the shoulders, chest and body length. Basically, I’m a little taller ...
MTM chore suit from William Crabtree: Review
Match in comments:
Can I suggest you look at the ' Summer' category in the menu? There are articles on this subject grouped there, including one on dressing for very hot weather...
The T-shirt under tailoring
May 26th 2021I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly. Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert t...
