The T-shirt under tailoring
May 26th 2021I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly. Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert t...
The T-shirt under tailoring
Match in comments:
I think most men look better without an Elizabethan collar, but that's just a personal opinion....
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
April 30th 20211. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
Match in comments:
Thanks Simon!...
Massura made-to-measure jacket: Review
April 28th 2021Massura is a German tailoring outfit run by Moritz Kossytorz, based in Munich but using a tailoring workshop in Naples. The style and make of the tailoring is not much different to other Neapolitan tailors, but I think Massura is worth highlighting...
Massura made-to-measure jacket: Review
Match in comments:
Hi Volodymyr, Happy to do so as well. I haven't heard from Moritz at all though - not in the two years since I gave back the jacket. S...
The Adret store: Full-blown beauty
April 16th 2021This is the first of three articles celebrating menswear stores in London, following our call to arms earlier in the week urging readers to support the shops they love. We’re starting with Adret, the achingly beautiful shop opened by Adam and ...
The Adret store: Full-blown beauty
Match in comments:
No I didn't, but they're naturally cut big - I wear a small or a medium in all Adret...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
February 5th 2021Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
Match in comments:
Thanks Lindsay, yes we mentioned that in a more recent post, the Spring Top 10. Thanks for adding it here though...
WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review
December 16th 2020Sometimes a jacket really impresses you from the off - the try-on, the fitting, everything just beautifully done from the start. It doesn't happen very often, and it doesn't necessarily make a difference to the finished garment; but it's a very goo...
WW Chan bespoke tweed jacket: Review
Match in comments:
Depends on the trousers and shirt, but generally mid to dark brown or black...
How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket
November 30th 2020In the coming months I will be writing more posts again in our ‘How great things age’ series , which aims to illustrate the beauty of quality clothing over time. Basically, it’s an antidote to the new clothing that it&rs...
How great things age: Nicoletta’s 50-year-old jacket
Match in comments:
I had two Hackett travel suits for work. One gray and one navy They were never fastened at work due to the eqpt we carried underneath but the lining rubbed through Ron my right side where a particular piece of kit sat. I...
Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit
October 26th 2020In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork involved, in particular hand...
Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit
Match in comments:
That's good to know. Thank you, Simon....
The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...
September 28th 2020How smart can you be without a suit or tie? Formality in tailoring is often discussed in terms of these two things. And it is true that wearing a suit rather than a jacket, and a tie rather than an open-necked shirt, will usually be smarter. But i...
The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...
Match in comments:
Good to know. Thanks for that. Lindsay...
If you only had five jackets: A capsule collection
September 21st 2020Grey corduroy jacket worn under a tweed overcoat This latest article in our Wardrobe Building series is on sports jackets, odd jackets, or just jackets. Whatever you want to call them. It’s an area with little understanding. I loved...
If you only had five jackets: A capsule collection
Match in comments:
By the way, I wouldn't pay much attention to the idea of spezzato. Most of the time you don't want to break up two parts of a suit if it's remotely smart, and if you're doing it with other things, it's just a sports jack...
Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jacket: Review
September 16th 2020I know a lot of readers have been waiting for this review of Anglo-Italian, so I’ll go straight into summarising my thoughts. All of them have, as per usual, already been discussed openly with the brand (Jake). My made-to-measure Anglo-Italia...
Anglo-Italian made-to-measure jacket: Review
Match in comments:
I'm exactly in the same spot. Looking at Anthology's lead timing - they now advertise a lead time of 9-12 months. Talk about slow fashion....
The guide to jacket pockets
July 27th 2020As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn&rsq...
The guide to jacket pockets
Match in comments:
Yes, this is done with lining cloth sometimes, and even (eg with drakes jackets) in the jacket material. It is to hold small items like coins, cards, even a phone if big enough...
Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review
July 24th 2020This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer this bespoke tailoring servi...
Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review
Match in comments:
Cheers Robert. If you want more reading material, lots lots more on shirt terms and what they mean in the Shirt Fabric Guide...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
July 13th 2020Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
Match in comments:
Well, my first decision would be about style, as those would be quite different if the Steed is more English and sharper. That would always be the most important thing. Then, I'd go for bespoke when I could if the execut...
Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review
April 22nd 2020[Correction: This piece originally stated that the jacket did not have a hand-padded lapel. It does, and this has now been added below.] This pink corduroy jacket was made for me by Orazio Luciano, over a period of six months. I was measured at Pit...
Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review
Match in comments:
Extremely nice jacket. By the way, the full collar of the shirt beneath works well with the jacket's wider lapels....
Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown
February 14th 2020Thom Sweeney is a bit of an outlier in British tailoring. First because it’s a high-quality bespoke workshop with a stylish, effective ready-to-wear brand as well (something no one else seems able to achieve). And second because their besp...
Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown
Match in comments:
They are good, yes, but whether they're the next best depends on what style you're after. To get a sense of that, compare this breakdown to the others in this series...
The velvet jacket and modern evening wear, in Cif...
December 4th 2019This article concerns two things. First, the pluses and minuses of the Cifonelli 6x1 style, as this is the first jacket I’ve had from them in their well-known cut. And second, the benefits of a velvet jacket without silk facings - and how it...
The velvet jacket and modern evening wear, in Cif...
Match in comments:
Sorry, I don't have any more pics of them. It's a mohair mix cloth though...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
November 22nd 2019This groundwork for this video was laid two weeks ago, when we examined the various aspects of the cut of a jacket. It might be worth watching that first, if you haven't already. It showed the most important points of cut and structure, from the siz...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
Match in comments:
There's always one in there - just needs to be controlled now and again!...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
November 6th 2019At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdown series - where I measure an...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
Match in comments:
Thank you. I'm afraid that number of takes, audio and editing is a bit beyond our budget/time, but thank you for the suggestions - I'll bring them up with the team....
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
October 25th 2019Steven Hitchcock is perhaps still best known as the son of John Hitchcock, long the head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard. Steven trained there, and his style is similar to A&S. But it’s not quite the drape cut that A&...
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
Match in comments:
Thanks so much for the very valuable advice, Simon!...
Earthy, refined colours for summer: Biagio Granat...
July 12th 2019Today is a lovely day in London (the day I write this, that is, July 3, not the day it’s published). Sunny, a light breeze, a few clouds drifting across the sky. It’s twenty-three degrees celcius. The kind of temperature where you can we...
Earthy, refined colours for summer: Biagio Granat...
Match in comments:
I have mine made with a light fusing, either a moderate spread or a button-down. However, whether the collar stands up or not will be just as much down to the cut of it - how high it is made at the front and back, and th...
Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...
June 10th 2019I was very excited when I received this jacket a month ago. Primarily because of the shoulder. Enzo Ciardi is fast becoming one of my favourite tailors. I like him, I like his roomy Neapolitan style, and everything he's made for me has been good: on...
Ciardi jacket in vintage gun-club tweed, from Laf...
Match in comments:
Sorry, HF10...
Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review
May 6th 2019Two years ago, young Neapolitan tailor Biagio Granata messaged me to say he was coming to London for the first time, and would like to make me something. I had heard some good things from others, and was interested in trying him and spreading the wo...
Biagio Granata summer jacket: Review
Match in comments:
I wouldn't wear it with jeans, no, the material is too smart...
Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review
April 17th 2019This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is good and the work solid too. I...
Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review
Match in comments:
Yes I think it can, and no I don't think it was...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
April 8th 2019Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more needed than the trous...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
Match in comments:
What do you mean by grabby in this instance? I am thinking of potentially sizing down from my normal size for the model 7, so any clarification you can offer would be great...
