Adret ‘Jack’ bomber jacket: Review
Although there has been quite a bit of coverage of Adret in the past two years (including on PS), pictures of the clothes in the wild are rare.
I thought it would be useful to shoot my most significant purchase from Adret, therefore, and reflect upon it. That's the Jack bomber jacket in worsted wool, pictured below.
(The other purchases were a thermal top, a pair of sandals, a handkerchief and a scarf. I comment on those briefly at the end of this piece.)
The Jack bomber is a short, casual jacket whose most unusual aspect is probably that it is entirely tailored.
It's more common for blousons and bombers to be elasticated at the hem, and therefore sit on the waist, letting the rest of the body flow out above. Most that are not elasticated simply drop straight, rather than trying to taper into the waist.
This does taper, with a pronounced dart on either side of the hips at the back rather than elastic. I think it’s this lack of ribbing, combined with a material that you’d more commonly find in tailoring, which makes the jacket look quite smart and unusual.
The material is an old Vitale Barberis Canonico wool, which appears to have quite a lot of texture due to the mixture of black, brown and olive yarns in the weave. It would make a nice sports jacket.
The tailoring feel continues with matte horn buttons up the front, each sitting on a good shank, and pleasingly functional hip pockets.
On most good sports jackets, the flaps of the pockets can be tucked neatly inside, leaving a clean, jetted finish instead (see below). This can be useful if you need ready access to them, or simply want to change the style.
Yet it’s rare for casual jackets to do this, presumably because it’s quite a fiddly job. The only bomber or blouson I own that has that feature is from Loro Piana.
One of the questions people ask about Adret is what the quality is like (presumably because of the high price).
I think it’s more useful to judge that on considered touches like this, rather than simple things like precision of stitching, which should be a given.
The cut of the jacket is pretty roomy, which anyone who has followed coverage of Adret will not be surprised by.
As I think these pictures show, though, the chest is generous but not oversized. Other styles of jacket, such as an old bomber or a varsity jacket, would be bigger.
What is noticeable is the size of the sleeve, which is large in the upper arm and tapers significantly below the elbow (shown below). This I think is very effective. It makes the jacket look flatteringly big but without any sloppy dropped shoulders or excess material.
The knock-on effect is that the Jack really looks better with other loose-cut clothes. These are some of my wider linen trousers - from Edward Sexton, 9-inch hem - and yet they don't look wide here.
It has been asked whether Adret is a ‘whole look’ brand, where you really need to buy all the clothes together.
I don’t think you do, but Adam (Rogers, co-founder) does have a particular aesthetic, which means certain silhouettes and certain colours. The clothes will always look best with other pieces with the same outlook.
This jacket, for example, would look unbalanced with skinny jeans, and a rich, vibrant top would be out of place. It’s much better with wider trousers and muted tones.
My combination here is particularly restrained, which I guess is typical of me, particularly when I’m trying out new clothes. It doesn't have to be as dull as that - the Adret range includes a huge range of colour, from pink to yellow to green. But they're all similarly pale or muted.
In these photos I've worn the jacket with two different tops, to show it can switch between being a little smarter and perhaps a little younger or contemporary.
I would guess most PS readers are likely to wear a jacket with a collared shirt or sweater, like the black Dartmoor above. This certainly looks more put-together, and flatters me more when the jacket is removed.
But I probably prefer the look at the top of this article, with just a black knitted T-shirt underneath. It looks more modern, and perhaps more relaxed too.
Interestingly, the collar of the Jack bomber works quite well when it’s up - staying up at the back and dropping down at the front - but it’s not a tall collar when folded down. It can look a little small with just a T-shirt underneath.
So to the issue of price. The Jack bomber was £1600; the linen version £1200. This is on a par with any designer brand, and very expensive for the kind of start-up we normally cover.
The defence is that Adam and Seto (the other co-founder) have invested a huge amount in their workforce in Indonesia, their livelihoods, workplace and training. The shop in Mayfair is one of the loveliest you will ever visit, and cannot have been cheap.
More importantly, Adam has created something genuinely distinct in menswear, and beautiful. The former should be recognised and rewarded by anyone that cares about clothing, while the latter will always be to particular people, priceless.
It is modern, easy and elegant. That’s the way they describe it, and I think it’s true.
But the price remains a barrier. For me, it means mostly that I can’t afford to buy much. I’ve bought the pieces I have both because I love them and because I want to support Adam and Seto, but if they were less expensive I would certainly have bought more.
Those others pieces, by the way, were:
- Fellows sandals, which are great but I bought the size too small. Currently considering putting money aside for another pair.
- Yellow handkerchief. A great example of Adam’s sense of colour. A soft, buttery yellow cotton that is wax-resist dyed and looks much more sophisticated than the more common bright silks.
- Indigo scarf/bandana, which I love for the same reasons.
- Cream thermal top, in knitted cotton. A great piece too, but I find it too like a thermal to wear on its own, so it’s restricted to layering under things.
Images of all those at some other stage. Also featured in this article are black-suede Alden LHS loafers and my Frank Clegg large working-tote bag.
Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt
Interesting fabric, presumably not available any more?
Welcome your frankness on pricing; their items are very expensive. The product is certainly different and the investment in the Indonesian workforce is commendable – however, I struggle to understand why a “start up” would choose Clifford Street as a location.
No, the materials are usually vintage ones, hence the small runs. Although as a type of material it’s not that unusual.
In terms of location, I guess it does reflect the quality and the style they’re aiming for.
Pretty commendable to have arguably the most beautiful store on Clifford Street with no backers. From studio appointments to pop ups, this was naturally the next step even if they are considered a “start up”. No matter how expensive it may be, if operations can justify rent on Clifford Street I am sure it will pay off for them in the long run. Although many items are deemed “expensive” there is something for most budgets – I suggest that people actually pop in and have a look. Limited runs, vintage luxury fabrics (check out the wild silk items) and stellar execution with design. Adret is in its own league. And of course that will not come cheap for some items, but I have many pieces that were affordable for me. Definitely worth popping in and talking to Adam about his work!
It certainly looks beautiful, but at this price point it‘s so inaccessible I‘m tempted to consider the brand more of a art project.
I wonder if these price points can be justified by how the product is made: Private White pays British salaries and does all in house at probably a third of what‘s charged here.
That being said it‘s a lovely, unapologetic brand. Unfortunately it seems that one needs to own a small stake in a middle Eastern gas field or Central African mining operation to be able to afford it
That’s surely a big exaggeration. It’s comparable pricing to most of the big brands it’s surrounded by, Loro Piana, Purple Label etc. Not just mining tycoons shopping there.
Of course not, but it seems to be one of those brands that look best if the entire outfit is just made by that brand. At these prices that‘s getting very expensive very quickly
I don’t think that’s the case on the ‘full look’ point. As I say in the article
How does one go about buying from Adret, online? Their website just has an animation.
It’s a nice bomber, but if I were spending that much I think I’d rather pay a bit more and get a nice leather one instead.
You can’t buy online, Aaron, they only sell through the shop on personal consultations. An unusual move these days, but much of the online shopping experience is anathema to how Adam and Seto want to work.
It looks smarter buttoned-rather more like a shorter sports jacket than a bomber. It avoids the baggy look of similar styles(with the elasticated waist) Sleeve profile is very good.
The sleeves seem a little long, or is this just optics of the photography?
They are probably a touch long, yes, but then it’s ready-made. I guess that’s a downside of not using elastic ribbing, as most other bombers would
Hi Simon,
Thank you for the article. The jacket is really interesting and it is something I have looked for quite some time. I believe there are some other stores that offer something similar, Ascot Chang and The Armoury offer some casual style jackets in MTO in Taylor materials (ex: Road Jacket, 3PB), among other taylors (I believe there is one Taylor in Mainland China that does some very interesting bombers).
I would like to know your perspective on those jackets and how they would be distinct to the Jack jacket, both in terms of style and in term make if possible. Thanks!
Hi Tamaki,
I think there are some quite significant differences between these. The similarly is really just that they are short, casual jackets. Not tailoring and not the usual leather or suede. But there are still big differences. See comment below on comparison to the 3PB
Interesting, it reminds me in style and function of the Armoury 3PB. I have one in navy tweet which is lovely and similarly smart for a blouson. Simon, any thoughts on how those two compare?
The 3PB is simpler and has more of a workwear feel – the pockets are all patches, the buttons and seams are all larger. The Jack is more refined in both the style and the work.
The cut is also rather different, with the 3PB straighter and not cut into the hips in the same way. And the overall aesthetic of the Jack is something more like a blouson – large in the body and sleeve.
How would this jacket compare to products by Lutays in terms of make, as both brands seem to be at the upper price end of this style of outerwear? Are there any handmade elements such as buttonholes?
There’s no hand sewing like that, no, but a lot of handwork involved in assembling it. I’m not sure I’d want hand-sewn buttonholes on this style of jacket though
Ok, apology here both to you and to Adam!
The buttonholes are hand sewn, and I just hadn’t noticed. Sorry about that.
Very reminiscent of commonwealth armies’ battle dress from world wars 1 and 2, especially in this colour.
Points to Adret for combining unique fabrics with subtle changes to classic designs. At those prices, their stuff would be compelling if every piece were made to measure, if not bespoke. That would really substantiate the casual tailoring theme they’re going for, differentiate the brand, and justify the costly manufacturing setup mentioned in this post.
Nice point Ben. I’m not sure there would really be much point with bespoke, given how loose fitting and unstructured the clothing is, but MTO or MTM yes.
Very nice design. The outfit here can serve as an inspiration too for other types of blouson. On that vein, I wonder if the black Dartmoor is a prototype for a future colour or a one off made just for yourself Simon?
A prototype, though in two minds as to whether it will be the best option for a fourth colour
I would certainly buy one if available…as you have noted previously black knitwear can prove very versatile.
Noted. Cheers Bruce
Black Dartmoor would be great, or a restock of the black polo. Dartmoor in a dark, gray green would also be nice.
True, thanks Peter, great suggestion
I agree. I’d add that black works best if there’s some texture, something to make it a little bit more distinct and less plain. The black polo has this because piqué cotton isn’t entirely plain.
Looks very enticing.
Love the style, fabric and colour, but the problem with this style for me is when and where would I wear it.
I often wear an A&S French workmen’s jacket as an alternative to a sports coat and I feel fine throwing a trench over it in the wet.
I wouldn’t feel the same with this length.
That’s why I prefer my bomber or Wind Breaker iterations to be waterproof.
But maybe I’m missing the point ?
I think it’s a bit restrictive to just have short jackets that are waterproof, yes. Particularly given you’ll wear them in warmer months mostly, when there’s usually less rain
Note that some of us live in countries where we get rain in the warmer months, and it’s very cool in the spring/fall and snowy in the winter, requiring completely different outerwear for those seasons.
Certainly can see your point for utility in the British Isles though.
Thanks for more coverage on Adret. It’s nice to see the pieces in the wild so hopefully we do get to see the scarf and handkerchief eventually.
Also, I thought I remembered you saying on Instagram that you bought the “Pablo” shirt however theres no mention of it. Did I misread/not remembering correctly or did you return it?
I didn’t pull the trigger on that at the time, despite being sorely tempted.
But, I actually have since I wrote this article. So that is one more piece to add to that list
As it is a piece I’m considering for myself, have you worn it much? How do you like it? Love to see an outfit eventually.
I probably haven’t worn it quite enough yet to have a full sense of what I like it with. But I like the relaxed feel of it – the only downside is it can have a bit of a kaftan/hippy vibe to it
Hi Simon! What do you think about Michael Browne recent ventures into tailored casual clothing? Seem’s like pretty interesting developement amidst general casualisation of clothing. Any plans on trying anything on? Also would like to request long awaited article in the “How to dress like…” series about Michael personal style.
Noted Nikita, thanks.
I love Michael’s work, but more the tailoring the short leather jackets etc. They’re just not my style
I now have bought from Adam a beautiful blouson waistcoat (unusual with long sleeves), casual shirt and mesh overshirt. None were cheap in pounds terms, but are not so if you consider the gorgeous fabrics, the excellent workmanship, the fact these are limited edition runs plus the likelihood they will last a lifetime and look increasingly better with wear. Adret have a unique offering and they are worth visiting by those wanting to build a luxury casual collection alongside their formal suits and jackets.
Interesting jacket: the pocket flaps look a little out of place to me but can be tucked in I see. if I were going for a bomber jacket I would seek out Lee Marsh.
Man those pockets are strangely placed. Useless the bottom ones on a cardigan?
I think the position is more to do with the relative length of the jacket. When you wear it, they feel in a very practical place, and are easy to use.
They’re also nicely made and surprisingly deep, which makes them more useful than you’d expect.
Random question. What is the jade bracket? Where can I get one? For some reason, it just looks really masculine and kind of unexpected.
It’s turquoise, not jade. It’s a vintage navajo bracelet – silver, handmade. I got mine from AntiQlockwise in Hong Kong, but lots of places sell them. Search for navajo silver jewellery.
Also article here on related crafts
And Red Rabbit makes modern versions
Hi Simon, I have been reading since the early days of the site. I hope you don’t mind some well-meaning feedback / criticism.
Independence – Menswear seems to have become a bit of an echo chamber. Everyone knows and is friends with everyone else. I’m sure that’s inevitable with a close knit and specialised industry. I don’t see a problem with that between brands/shop owners (beyond everything becoming a little bit monocultural) but when a journalist becomes part of that, I feel they lose a degree of independence. I cannot help but feel the positivity towards Adret, for example, must be influenced by your friendship with Adam. If reviews are to be held out as journalistic / independent, I think a distance from the subject is needed. I don’t think that’s consistent with friendship.
Price – I know this is a vexed subject on the site (and one you defend vigorously) but I feel that there is a loss of touch with reality here. Mayfair absolutely is for the mining tycoons and oligarchs. No normal person shops at Loro Piana or Purple Label. I have a good job and earn substantially above the average, but cannot justify shopping around there. It’s not a question of choosing between an expensive barbecue and some clothes – it’s the reality that with usual commitments (children, rent/mortgage etc.) it’s just not a reasonable thing to do with money. I cannot help but feel that this is partly the result of unnecessarily pursuing Mayfair premises and passing that cost onto customers. It simply doesn’t translate into value for the customer in terms of product.
I am sure you’ll disagree with both points, but I felt compelled to make them.
Thank you for them. I hope you don’t mind me replying either.
On the independence point, I can see how this would be a concern and with social media so big now, that impression can certainly be strong. The only thing I would say is that I am always aware of the potential conflict, and strive to maintain independence consistently. If you ever see any actual evidence of that not being the case, rather than a vaguer fear, please do let me know.
I also think it’s fair to say that the criticism of brands and open comments is still the same on PS, and that much different to anything you find on other sites and social media. But again, please please shout if and when you think this is not the case.
On price, I guess a first thing I would say is that plenty of people I know do shop in those places, but they are certainly not the norm. There it is a particular passion or even obsession.
The second is that it’s useful to have some perspective on different types of brands and on volume of purchases. The first point is that there is a big difference between, for example, a £215 Anderson & Sheppard shetland sweater, and a £1200 Loro Piana cashmere one. But both are in Mayfair.
The other point is that I don’t know anyone that regularly shops in those places, or does so for more than a very small part of their wardrobe. They don’t buy socks, T-shirts, sweatshirts, jeans or even shirts in places like this. I think I buy one piece from Purple Label on average a year, and it’s always outerwear. And in the sale. It’s still very expensive, but that’s where I see the value.
This second discussion around relative value of different parts of the wardrobe feels like an interesting one for an article. Perhaps even a few, with perspectives from different people, in and outside of the industry. Let me know if you agree.
Thanks again for stimulating these thoughts.
Simon
Simon, thanks for a characteristically polite and considered response.
I have been reflecting on independence and I think I may have been a bit harsh in my comment. Given your career, I shouldn’t have presumed to lecture about independence – unsurprisingly, it’s something you’re conscious of. Also, you don’t pretend to be fully independent: you’re transparent about the fact that you’re friends with Adam and that this might have influenced the buying decision. Readers are armed with that information and can reach their own views accordingly. I don’t think you’ve ever pretended to be a Which?-style buying guide, so it’s not fair to judge you by / suggest you live up to that barometer.
On cost, I think I agree. I would just add that even the lower end of the spectrum (the £215 jumper) we have actually lost touch with most people. I have to admit I actually bought the £215 shetland sweater from A&S. I felt more than a bit guilty spending that much. I also felt a bit annoyed when I saw pretty much the same sweater (I think they must have been the same manufacturer) at Trunk for a lot less. I’m not sure I was happy to spend the Mayfair premium. Nor am I happy to spend what Drake’s now charges for the Oxford button down shirts I used to buy, which I am sure has been influenced by Savile Row rents. But to moderate my previous comment – that may be a personal decision and each person is entitled to a different view of what something is worth.
Your suggested article sounds really interesting to me. I suppose value might not just be cost per wear (but that is a big part, for me at least) but also how something makes you feel, which is much less tangible and varies from person to person.
Thanks again. And good luck to Adret.
Good points all, and thank you
I also have a A &S Shetland sweater.It proberbly is overpriced. However, the interesting point is that I do like it as much,if not more,than my other high quality cashmere crew necks that I purchased in the 1990s from Johnson’s because 1) it is so versatile and 2) just for it’s rugged looks.It works with jeans brilliantly in a way that my cashmeres cannot match but is equally at home with flannels and chinos.If I had to start again I would probably buy more Shetland sweaters and less cashmere.
Joy of visiting the shop and having a conversation with an informed artisan, provide associations every time you put on a garment like this. Buy it and then wear it as often as possible. Be prepared to do without any number of other things for as long as it takes. A thing of beauty is a joy for ever.
Simon,
I believe the comments by O and your responses are important to your readers and definitely warrent several articles. Discussions of the relative value/cost of different componants of ones clothes, rather than just focusing on the best (and most expensive), would be very useful. And you certainly have the knowledge to comment on a wide breadth of brands, tailors, etc. While I understand your geographical constraints of London (Mayfair) and European brands, is your readership broad enough to include more explorations of The United States? New York (beyond the symposium you held in NYC)? I do notice discussion of some examples like Filsons, but you are now so successful and widely read, that perhaps value/cost includes a perspective of regional differences and similarities.
Thanks
Thank you Jack.
I should emphasise that the focus of this site will always be the finest clothes there are. It’s just what I’ve always loved, and we can never cover everything. But within that there are good discussions about when to reach for that and when not. And relative value is always a part of covering the finest things too – they have to be set in perspective.
In terms of US coverage, I have covered many brands over the years. Many are even only in the US and not in the UK – such as The Armoury. However, I’m sure there will be some differences we can dig into with articles or contributions from US people focusing on options there.
Cheers
Simon, A related question; I am travelling to Turin Italy in late Sept. for a wedding and will be there about 8 days including the wedding. I understand there is wool cloth making going on in Biella about 1 hour from Turin. Are there shops in Turin you would recommend or in Biella? I am now retired and not looking for the latest craze and why I follow you. Note: you might consider a series focusing on those of over 70 who are still frequently travelling.
Hi Robert,
You’re right, the mills aren’t far away, but I don’t know whether they sell their own cloth from anywhere there or in Turin. I think it’s unlikely, because most mills don’t work in that way. And I haven’t been to Turin for a long time I’m afraid.
Sorry I can’t help – but noted on the article suggestion. Thank you
Hi Simon, great article and I was just looking for something similar yesterday, from Loro Piana or similar. One thing I am wondering about as a former rugby / power lifter type I am conscious about simply looking huge in something like this, do you think the construction will with this a bit? other than that, I love these articles, especially when you mention they are supporting the development of global communities, thank you for this and I look forward to future articles from other artisans.
Pleased to hear it, thanks.
Yes, the construction will help a lot I think. Also, my general advice based on friends I know of bigger sizes, is you shouldn’t dress more tightly just because you’re bigger. If anything that tends to accentuate, even exagerrate size by making it more obvious.
We do have an article in the works on this.
Hi Simon, may i ask something irrelevant ? Im looking for a good weekender bag causw i travel a lot. I want something with leather that ages with patina, what would you suggest ?
Of course, but I’m afraid it’s been a while since I’ve shopped for one.
The recommendations that come to mind, though, are Frank Clegg leathers, Dunhill for the very top end, and perhaps Bennett Winch for their leather range. All are nice.
Fine styling and fine workmanship. Looking forward to finding a knockoff, or even having one made at a mere fraction of what’s being asked.
With all due respect, you won’t get something the same at all if it’s made for you. This is not just a regular sports jacket. The design work involved is extensive and what you will get will be at the very least rather different, at the worst, as you say, a poor knockoff.
But on the other hand, sometimes you see a piece of clothing, you love it, buy it, later find “almost the same” thing for 1/3 of the price… and guess what? The things you loved about the expensive one is still there, so the expensive one suddenly feels like a waste of money. But on the other hand, often it does not work, and cheap one is not worth it. I’ve had it both ways, and I’m slowly learning when and for what it’s worth it paying more to me.
True Martins. I think the important thing to realise though is that that’s not random usually. It is possible to learn what things are worth it and what you’re paying for – it’s something we always emphasise and discuss
And also, sometimes it’s a case of “I spent 3 times more than I should have so I better love it”.. And it takes a while to admit even to yourself that no, it wasn’t really worth the price tag.
Nothing but admiration for the singularity and ambition of Adret’s offering. Have you tried their sport jacket-cardigan model Simon? How did you find it?
I didn’t like that as much to be honest. I’m a little biased as I like regular tailoring so much, but the style is also not quite me, the buttoning point and so on
Overall vibe seems similar to Stoffa. Would you say the clothes from Adret & Stoffa would mesh well easily?
Good point. I think there are some aspects that are similar, yes, particularly the focus on exclusive cloths and the overall theme of easy elegance.
But, Stoffa isn’t really sized this way, looser and flowing, and I think on that point they diverge a bit.
Hi Simon,
I’m not sure if it’s just due to the angle of the photos, but the spacing between the last button to the button hem seems off, like the distance between the last button and the bottom hem is noticeably shorter than the last button and the button above it. It gives the impression that the jacket was originally too long for you and you had to shorten it slightly, hence the awkward spacing.
Hey Edric,
Interesting point. I can see why it could give that impression, but it doesn’t to me. It just looks like the last button has been deliberately placed at that point in order for the jacket to open the precisely desired amount below it. Perhaps it helps that other bombers, like cardigans, often have different spacing at the bottom there, with two closer buttons often placed on the ribbing.
Still, it is unusual and I can see how it would catch the eye.
Yes, but with 2 closer buttons, it would at least “balance out” the awkward spacing. Given how much effort has been put to the brand as a whole, i’ll just assume this was a deliberate design choice for a reason.
Yes, good point.
I’m sure it was deliberate, yes, though the point remains a good one
Simon are these the snuff suede aldens you had dyed black? Do they do jacket? I am looking to get my suede bomber dyed a shade darker – any suggestions where I can have that done? thanks
Yes they are. I don’t know if they do jackets, but I think it’s unlikely. That would be much more difficult. And I’m afraid I don’t have any suggestions, no
Simon, thank you for the wonderful content as always. Could you share where that turquoise bracelet is from?
Hey Jasim – see comment above from Ben on the answer there, and links
Hi Simon, would you mind saying where you got your Aldens dyed? I know you’ve mentioned it before but I can’t find the relevant post.
Sure – it was The Jaunty Flaneur. Tom, who works now in Savile Row Valet on Savile Row
Simon re the 1200 GBP Loro Piana Cashmere sweater/jumper how would say the equivalent garment from Turnbull and Asser, Budd, Drakes, Anderson and Sheppard or the best Scottish cashmere makers/retailers compare in terms of quality of cloth, cut and likelihood of lasting ? Is it really worth paying the Loro Piana prices for a stock item such as a navy crew or v neck jumper or cardigan? Incidentally of the Scottish Cashmere manufacturers who retail to the public who produces the best product in your opinion?
No, is the short answer. The product is not the same – Loro Piana will often be better, whether it’s the fineness of the finishing, the sourcing of the baby cashmere or the often small design details. But for something that basic, no it’s hard to say it’s worth it.
The lasting point, out of interest, is one we’ll cover soon. Interesting how people put value on longevity, when often finer things don’t last as well by definition.
I haven’t surveyed enough of the Scottish producers to have an opinion there, but broadly I’d say there the different is in the materials used, not the level of make. So find out what the yarn, gauge etc is
Thank You. Re the other retailers I mentioned; Turnbull and Asser, Budd, Drakes and Anderson and Sheppard how would you rank them in terms of quality and value for money for their knitwear? I left off Emma Willis too from this list! Which retailer do you believe offers the best option for quality and value knitwear (at this end of the market/price point) ?
I don’t know the T&A or Budd knitwear well enough to comment there I’m afraid. To be honest though, most of the knits don’t really vary in terms of quality at this kind of level in the market. Look at where it’s made and what it’s made from instead. If it’s all lambswool made in Scotland, for instance, there won’t be much difference between them in terms of quality.
Hi Simon,
I’ve often seen you refer to certain colors as “rich”. Could you please define this and elaborate on why a rich color would not work with this top?
Thanks,
Michael
Sure. A rich colour usually means one that is quite saturated (so a lot of colour – not much white or black) and sometimes also (more in painting) one that is made up of other colours, and so is quite a strong colour.
This top is the opposite of that – it’s not very saturated, in fact quite muted, with black and white effectively mixed in, greying it.
Brown is actually one of the easiest colours to consider in this respect, I think. It’s not hard to imagine a brown that is a much stronger, more vibrant colour than this.
Simon,
I am curious what this outfit would look like with the Sagan classic as opposed to the Alden LHS. What are your thoughts? Did you try the Sagan before using the LHS?
I did. I prefer a wider shoe with something like this. It’s more casual, and suits the proportions of the jacket and trousers
Simon,
What are your thoughts on the baudoin and lange stride? Do you think they could be appropriate for this outfit?
I don’t like that style myself. Rather like the Loro Piana open walks, they’re neither a smart shoe nor a casual one, and get rather lost in between
Simon, how about the Rubinacci Belgium loafers? Have you tried them?
https://marianorubinacci.com/en/product/black-deer-leather-marphy-with-tassels
I have actually, yes, I used to have a pair. The quality isn’t great to be honest, particularly compared to the Baudoin & Lange, and I was never much of a fan of the little bow. But it is a slightly rounded shape than B&L, so might be a little better with this jacket
Dear Simon,
I have looked at your Instagram and was stunned by the bomber jacket you had on (attached picture). I wonder if it is an RTW or is it more like a bespoke project?
Hey Mobu. It’s a vintage piece, I’ll be doing a piece on it soon. We’re also looking at replicating it for a future PS piece
I am eagerly looking forward to purchasing it! I’ve spent hours looking online for something similar but came up empty-handed.
Nice to hear Mobu
Been incredibly interested in this jacket since I first saw it in another article.
I hope it does make it to the production phase! Would absolutely buy it.
Lovely to hear Daniel, thanks
1) Should my first casual jacket for wearing with jeans and workwear chinos be an ‘overshirt or a bomber or harrington jacket’?
2) Would navy be the most versatile in terms of colour for my first casual jacket out of them?
1) All would be great, it’s just a question of which style you prefer, Ayush
2) Probably, unless you wear a lot of dark navy jeans or navy trousers
A nice soft tweed is always worth considering. They can be pretty flexible.
I applaud the uniqueness but the brand is a little jarring for me. On the one hand they are portraying bohemian artist chic, suggesting a laid back cool. On the other hand the clothes cost a fortune. I can’t imagine my life would be laid back if I had to constantly worry about spilling sauce on my frighteningly expensive clothes and then having to take them to the dry cleaners. I would rather opt for the kind of clothes artists genuinely used to wear, battered old chore coats, army fatigues and oversized shirts because they are clearly channeling that artist vibe.
But despite my opinions, Charvet charge as much as they do for a ready to wear shirt and the designers charge ridiculous prices for silly clothes only fit for a runway. Also worth noting how much some of you fellows spend on a suit! Yes they last a long time and over the years it will work out cheaper. But its still an astonishingly expensive suit the same way these are astonishingly expensive ready to wear garments.
Hi again Simon, I hope your afternoon is splendid thus far. I’m in the process of updating my casual wardrobe this coming spring/summer and was curious what you thought was the most versatile color for a lightweight jacket/blouson? I currently have a Ralph Lauren one in light beige, but I find it really only looks best with my olive trousers or light wash denim. I’m leaning towards dark Navy as I’ve seen how good your linen Harrington looks with the variety of trouser colors, but as your guidance hasn’t steered me wrong yet I thought I’d reach out to get your opinion first.
Thanks again, I really appreciate the value you bring to our ecosystem.
Thanks Christopher, it’s been stressful but I’m getting there!
I’d say dark navy or dark brown (a colour we’re going to do this year in the Harrington)
I could equally see dark brown being a wonderfully versatile color. Will you be releasing the new color (and restocking the navy) in a 3xl size? If so, I’d love to get on the list for them as your larger sizes sell out extremely fast.
No we won’t, we don’t normally offer 3XL I’m afraid
No worries – my tailor said they are able to duplicate the design exactly, but I would have much rather supported you and Private White if possible.
Thank you Christopher. If I’m honest I think that’s unlikely, but I’m sure they’ll do a good job in what they create. And thank you, that’s much appreciated