A few readers asked for this piece after I did my article on my favourite bespoke tailors of all time last year. I haven’t tried as many made-to-measure as bespoke - 20 rather than 60 - but it’s still a good number in terms of pricing, style and geography. Enough to cover most readers.
And although there is an article here that lists every MTM tailor we’ve covered, 20 is too many probably to digest easily. It needs to be broken down.
So today’s piece will order all of them and explain the reasons.
Before we start, a definition:
- ‘Made to measure’ is used to refer to tailoring that starts from a standard block, rather than an individual paper pattern. The level of fit is therefore usually the thing sacrificed compared to bespoke.
- This definition of made to measure can include a wide range of different fabrications, from fully machine made to the same level of handwork as bespoke. This is spelled out in each case below.
- This is all different to made to order, where usually an item of RTW is simply ordered in a different colour or size, or with minimal adjustments to fit.
As with the bespoke guide, I think it’s important to explain why I would recommend each of these different tailors to someone, in terms of specific metrics. Too often people concentrate on price and quality, and assume everything else (eg convenience or style) is much less relevant.
The metrics are:
- House cut. What the cut of the house is roughly, such as southern Italian or structured English. Don’t ask them to make something different
- Style. How strong the style of the house is in other ways, apart from cut. This can work both ways: usually a strong style you can see and understand is helpful, but it can mean less flexibility
- Convenience. The longer you commission tailoring, the more relevant this is. So whether a maker has a shop or just trunk shows, how many shops, how many trunk shows, what kind of shops even
- Consistency. Delivering what they say they’ll deliver, when they said they would, and the same as the last time
- Price. Pretty obvious, but has to include a consideration of all these things
- Quality. The make, the handwork, the fit
All the names below link to the original articles on these makers, where you can find more detail.
My two favourites
The French shop Jean-Manuel Moreau has delivered the best made-to-measure southern-Italian tailoring for me. I’ve had a linen suit made, a tweed jacket, and in Florence we fitted a seersucker suit. They’ve all been consistent and a great fit.
Jean-Manuel works with Orazio Luciano in Naples, but has his own cut and high quality control. The jackets are hand-padded alongside other hand work, which is rare in the world of MTM. The only small downside is that the shop has less of a strong style than some others on this list.
Suit starting price inc. VAT: €3300 (£2860)
Travel/availability: In the Paris shop, and then trunk shows in London, New York, Geneva and Brussels, with Dubai coming in 2026
Bryceland’s work with WW Chan to offer their made to measure. They made me a tweed jacket which was an excellent fit, and which was also handmade in the same way as Chan’s bespoke product. There is more of a style at work with Bryceland’s, as you might expect, and this is their cut. It is soft but not as curved as most Italian pieces, which may particularly appeal to some readers.
The only caveats are that Bryceland’s have only made one piece for me, and that there has been some turnover in the store, at least in London.
Price: £2250
Availability: Only available in stores (London, Tokyo, Hong Kong) but adding to trunk shows in the future
Also good
Saman make a very well-fitted garment, also with hand-padding as with the two above. The main caveat here would be price, as they’ve become so much more expensive over the years. The biggest upsides are the level of service and the design input - they increasingly use custom fabrics you won’t get anything else, and have very close relationships with their customers.
Price: £2300 / £3500 (Toscana and Napoli lines, the latter hand padded)
Availability: In stores (London and Stockholm) and during trunk shows (New York and Los Angeles)
Jake Mueser in New York has become a really good supplier of MTM tailoring for people we know. They made me a great herringbone jacket, and seem to be more consistent now too, as well as expanding into more ready-to-wear. Their style is quite a standard southern Italian one, but they are very good on cloth selection and advice. No hand padding, but that’s reflected in the price too.
Price: $2950 (£2155)
Availability: In the New York store and during trunk shows (Los Angeles, Detroit, Washington DC, Miami, London, Paris)
Anglo are more particular in terms of cloth and cut. Although it’s a soft make, it’s less standard and has a few little idiosyncrasies like the curve at the bottom of their double-breasted lapel. Their house cloth is also quite distinctive, though they carry other cloths as well. Not hand padded, same as Mueser.
Price: £1980
Availability: In store (London) and at New York trunk shows
The Armoury’s biggest advantage is they have a big range of cuts, spelt out in a numbering system. This is pretty rare - most brands don’t offer different styles and cuts like this, and certainly not with all in the shop ready to try on. They are quite expensive, and a second suit I had from them wasn’t as good as the first, but there are two price/quality levels, which again is rare.
Price: $3000 (£2200) for Ring Jacket, $4950 (£3645) for Hundred Series
Availability: In the New York and Hong Kong stores
Only for particular things
The jacket Brioni made for me was good, and the experience of visiting a real luxury brand was a refreshing one. Still, the price makes it hard to compete with other bespoke tailors, and for that reason I’d recommend it only to readers that like designer brands and want this level of elevated make.
The offshore service from Edward Sexton doesn’t quite fit into this piece, as it’s cut to a proper bespoke pattern and then made in China (the opposite of our definition). Still, it’s not quite their full bespoke and closer to these others in price. I would use Sexton for their particular style, which won’t be for everyone but if it is for you, the service presents a solid non-bespoke option.
It’s been a while since I’ve tried P Johnson’s tailoring, but in the intervening time I have tried their ready-made jackets, and the cut seems to be more relaxed and elegant that it used to be, which is welcome. I include them here therefore as they did a solid job on the fit, and are more accessible to our antipodean cousins than anyone else.
Others
Assisi - Korean tailors Assisi do a made-to-measure service which looks very good, and which I am in the process of trying out. More soon.
The Anthology - The Anthology do a very good MTM service, which Manish has covered on Permanent Style. Given how consistent they’ve been with everything else, I’d have no hesitation recommending them.
Husbands - One I would like to try but haven’t yet. Notable here as they have a style which is more structured, as well as being quite distinctive.
Maximilian Mogg - Same goes for Max. I admire what they’re doing, even if it’s not my style really. We will cover them some time I’m sure.
La Bowtique - I’ve not tried the service, but Manish had a good experience. A nice option for anyone looking specifically for a dinner suit and broader advice on evening wear.
Suits pictured, top to bottom (with links to the relevant articles): Jake Mueser, The Armoury, Jean-Manuel Moreau, Bryceland's, Saman Amel, Brioni, P Johnson, Anglo-Italian.
For a full list of all made-to-measure covered, see article here.
I’m interested in the Bryceland’s MTM as well, but when you mention there’s been some turnover at the store—do you mean staff have left?
Are you suggesting that the new team might not be as experienced when it comes to measuring and handling the MTM process? Was it Ben that did yours?
Just wanted to understand your perspective a bit more before I go ahead.
Hey Andy,
Yes Ben did mine and he’s no longer there. Albert and André may be able to do a great job too, and the system seems to be a well-oiled one, but I should mention that point.
Has Ben left Bryceland’s or did he switch position within the company?
He’s left, he’s now working at Grey Flannel
I do love Grey Flannel. I have suits going back 25 years made by the original Tim Everest.
Andy, the measuring and ordering process without Ben there has left something to be desired in my experience.
Great article, i was considering to try Samanamel for a blazer a year ago, but the price increase made the idea go away as it came. It would be nice to suggest some more affordable brands, like in the 500-1000Euro range.
Thanks Georgios. That’s not really the area we know well and so we don’t cover that much.
The Saman prices have gone up, though the Toscana line in particular is pretty competitive – I can imagine some readers that really like the Saman style going for that over some of the other brands.
Hey there Georgios, hoping I could help here. I don’t have any personal experience with all of these brands, but I’ve heard overwhelmingly positive things about them in the 500(ish) to 1000(ish) price range:
Collaro has been known for great trousers, jackets, shirts, and outerwear. They have some of their own house cloths, as well as some cloth from some named but less expensive mills (VBC, Baird McNutt, Standeven). They operate under a remote MTM service based out of Singapore but will do trunk shows once a year in certain cities. I saw Travis when he visited NYC last fall and had a pique polo and high twist trousers made. Great fit and good service.
There’s a decent chunk of information regarding brands like Proper Cloth or Suit Supply, so they might be worth looking into.
At that price range you have to adjust your expectations accordingly but I have had good results with Spier & Mackay and Suit Supply’s online ‘custom’ programmes. They are both somewhere between MTO and MTM, in that you are just adjusting their standard sizes but can do more than just adjust things like length and sleeves (Spier has recently separated it’s service into two, with a cheaper MTO service that offers limited size customisation and a more extensive MTM service). The challenge is you have to do it all yourself, so if you already fit fairly well into their standard sizes it’s easy, whereas if you are far off it’s riskier.
Suit Supply also allows you to get fitted in store but unfortunately my experiences with their style advisers have been mixed, with some resulting in jackets that fit worse than ready to wear.
Still, while below the level Simon normally covers (Manish covered their ready to wear suits a while back), those are the best options under €1,000 in my opinion, especially on style and fabric selections.
Have a look at Kale Bespoke in The City of London. Cut by Jon Deboise and excellent value and quality product
i thought your Brioni was full bespoke?
I called it bespoke and that’s probably not inaccurate, but the fitting process seemed a little in between. There was an individual pattern I could see, but not necessarily the full bespoke range of adjustments. Bear in mind that a personal pattern is still just a rule of thumb, what matters is how much that pattern can then be adjusted so there is a range, not a clear line. Equally other things like the amount of ironwork and shaping etc
Interesting, I would have thought that Anthology would “rank” higher, due to you liking their cut. In what metrics do you feel they fall short on compared to those you highlight more prominently?
Perhaps that wasn’t clear, but I haven’t ‘ranked’ them at all. That section is people I haven’t tried myself
My mistake, you’ve covered Anthology a bit but maybe it was just rtw and bespoke pieces. I must admit I do feel that the articles structure comes off as ranking: The best, also good, the rest. Also most of the metrics can be objectively scaled from good to bad.
No worries, and yes it was meant more as a ranking but not that bottom section, as they’re services I haven’t used
I recently commissioned my first-ever MTM jacket. I’m a longtime reader but my budget rarely stretches to proper tailoring – so this took some consideration on my part. I went with The Anthology, after very positive experiences buying shirts online, and of course much praise on these pages. It was one of the best clothes-buying experiences I’ve ever had. Buzz and his team were friendly, attentive, listened to my thoughts and offered their own. The price seemed entirely fair. They have their own style as you and Manish have mentioned before, Simon, but perhaps not as distinctive as Bryceland’s or Anglo – so to my mind extremely wearable and versatile. The jacket when it came was beautiful – the first time I wore it my brother-in-law said he thought I looked like I’d had a growth spurt! It was a touch big in the waist but not extreme and at the follow-up appointment just recently they immediately spotted it and it’s off for final alterations. I feel entirely confident that what I’ll get back will be fantastic and would recommend them to anyone.
Wonderful to hear, thanks for sharing Joe
If I may, congratulations, I hope you wear your new jacket for a long time, with joy!
Would you consider a ‘remote’ / online MTM ?
There are quite afew claiming great accuracy of measurement using AI tools .
Surely such technology could introduce ‘mass customisation’ to tailoring and make MTM more ‘affordable’.
Although some of these remote ‘tailors’ appear to charge eye-watering prices .
I wouldn’t personally as I want to see the product in person – small aspects of style and material make a big difference. Even in person, so many assumptions are built into systems that are style-related. People keep on saying how much technology should be able to do this, but as soon as you fit in person you realise how much is a matter of judgment and not set rules. I also want to be able to follow up with adjustments or changes in person later
Well , without mentioning names , that certainly ends the social media debate around remote bespoke and why you won’t / don’t review a certain brand’s online bespoke .
Hi Simon, thanks for the great round up!
I know you mentioned in an above comment (and in previous posts) that PS is intended to cover the highest levels of craftsmanship. That said, I keep wondering whether it would be an interesting experiment for you to test out MTM offerings from brands like Suitsupply, Blugiallo, or Porpercloth. The reason for this is that MTM giants like Suitsupply arguably have the largest set of data, coupled with well-oiled algorithms and processes (please do correct me if this isn’t entirely correct). While the quality of the make might not be at the level of PS, it would be intriguing to “do it for science” and maybe they’ll surprise you with the fit!
Perhaps Al, though actually the friends I know that have tried SuitSupply over the years say the biggest issue is the lack of consistency, that whether you get something very tight fitting or looser depends a lot on the particular salesperson. Algorithms don’t really help there
Cheers Simon, that makes sense. On a similar note, could you please clarify what you meant by “as it’s cut to a proper bespoke pattern and then made in China (the opposite of our definition)” in ES’ description? Does the definition allude to the pattern or the production?
The definition alludes to the pattern – as in the definition we give at the top of the article of MTM. That presumes a block pattern, whereas the ES one is hand cut
Simon, how about trying out London – based Mason and Sons Made to measure offering – Matt Spaiser seems especially impresssed as below:
https://www.bondsuits.com/my-anthony-sinclair-made-to-measure-thunderball-mohair-suit/
His positive comments re their ability to make seemingly endless adjustments/ accommodations, genuinely knowledgeable and helpful staff and a keen price point are most telling.
What are your thoughts?
To be honest I’ve been put off by the way they have bought old names and re-use them, and that suit looks like a pretty mid-level Chinese or Munro make – pretend pick stitching on the edges, pretend hand stitching of the label, not great finishing elsewhere
What do you mean by pretend pick stitching? Machine stitching made to imitate hand stitching?
Yes exactly. You get in pretty commonly on cheaper suits these days – it’s sometimes referred to as an AMF machine or stitching.
It’s particularly silly for me around the label on the inside of the jacket, because it’s that stitching that’s used by tailors of a handmade garment to allude to the handwork used elsewhere. The zig-zag stitch is used to show it’s by hand, otherwise it would be pointless to have zig zags. But here it’s done by machine.
Got it. Nothing wrong with machine stitching as long as it is not masquerading as something else.
For me, yes
Hi Simon,
Thanks for the useful article. I’ve had a few jackets made by Saman Amel in their Napoli line, which have been great. However, the price has gone up a lot as in the last few years. Do you think the tangible differences for a customer between the Napoli and Toscana lines are less relevant if I have a jacket made in a heavy tweed?
Yes, that would make some difference I think. Both because of the thickness of the material and because it would be a more casual garment
Great, thanks!
I have bought a lot from Saman and mostly Napoli. The exceptions are some odd trousers. I am very satisfied even if I also react to the rising prices. But my last order was a tuxedo from the Tuscany line. The price for that was a bit more competitive as they had some bulked lengths in the factory of the most common tux cloths (in my case black barathea with a bit mohair in the mix). I am extremely happy with the tux and only a nerd or an expert like Simon would notice the differences with the Napoli line. I still consider Saman quite competitive in price if you look at the MTM offerings. Their RTW are competitive if you compare with brands like Loro Piana and Tom Ford.
Thanks to the experience Carl
This is somewhat of a niche option, and probably isn’t ideal for Simon geographically for similar reasons why Jean-Manuel Moreau or Bryceland’s aren’t ideal for me, but for those similarly situated in the northeastern US I’ve had a recent good experience having a MTM jacket made (in a summery wool/linen blend—cloth code 99364—from Harrisons) by The Andover Shop.
Steven, this is good to hear. I live about an hour away from either Andover Shop location and have been considering giving them a try. An acquaintance also reported a good experience when he needed suits for himself and his three college age and athletic sons.
I think all mentioned are over £2000 (Anglo-Italian being the ‘cheapest’ at £1980.)
Simon, if you would allow could we get readers suggestions of any they’ve used at a more budget sub-£1k to £1.5k ?
I’ll start ……
Graham Browne in the City who I’ve had a bespoke at their Christmas sale for around £1k .
Their cut tends to be a conservative City style . I’ve always found GB to be very approachable . Shout out to Abdul at GB one of the nicest, most humble guys you’ll ever meet .
Another , who I have spoken and tried on a jkt but not commissioned anything , is Nicholas Simons ( Saville Row trained cutter) .
Once again Nicholas was very, very easy to talk to and happy to explain his cut , what MTM was etc etc .
The cut of the jacket was soft structured .
He’s certainly someone who I will buy MTM from .
Look forward to others responses .
Thanks for the recommendations Robin
Have a look at Kale bespoke in The City as well. I’ve just had my first commission and am really impressed
What is the best bet when it comes to more structured style?
It’s a good question, there’s less of it around at this quality level, as most of the more handmade stuff tends to be Italian.
There’s Sexton in here and Huntsman does a Chinese-made structured garment, but after that you need to go to somewhere that uses a Munro or similar to make. Perhaps New & Lingwood for example
Hi Simon,
The rprce for Brycelands quoted here is much higher than the one quoted in your article from earlier this year.
Inflation or cloth preference, or what?
That’s a suit rather than a jacket?
Hi Simon,
Thanks for the very useful article.
I noticed Brycelands on their website refers to their jackets being half canvassed. How much weight would you place on that vs a full canvass in terms of quality/longevity and fit?
Also wondered if mtm tends to always have half vs full canvass.
I also wondered if you could share any experience of how far trousers can be adjusted in terms of style under MTM. I’m considering ordering a suit from Brycelands but I know their house style trousers are quite a high rise sitting on the natural waist whereas I tend to prefer a mid to high rise sitting near the top of the hip bone. Is that the sort of thing that can be accommodated in MTM?
Thanks very much
The MTM tailoring as with mine is fully canvassed, not half. Could you point out the reference on the website just so I can see the context?
No, MTM doesn’t necessarily have half canvas, but you get it more in RTW and MTM than you do with bespoke, yes.
On the trousers I don’t know, you’d have to check with the store
Thanks. It’s under the “construction” heading of their made to measure tailoring page of their website.
https://brycelandsco.co.uk/pages/tailoring-made-to-measure
It says “All of our jackets are half canvassed with a floating horsehair canvas with hand padded hand padded so that the garment moulds to your form over time.”
Thanks. I’ll check it out with the team
Thank you very much.
Hi Douglas – yes I checked and it was a mistake. It’s being updated now. All the MTM tailoring is fully canvassed
Ah brilliant – thank you so much for checking.
Hi Simon. I’m a bit surprised that you haven’t tried Oxxford clothes. Although based in Chicago, they have a New York store. Perhaps the next time time you’re in New York you could consider giving this clothier a try?
Thanks Scott. I have been in to see them a few times over the years in NY. I hadn’t heard good things since they were taken over by the Tom James group though, so that put me off a little
Just had my first forward fitting for my Waverly suit with J Mueser. This is my first “custom” commission so my experience is very limited but so far it’s been a great time. Everyone there is fantastic to work with, and for a first fitting I think this is coming out really well!
Looking good Zawaad
Thank you, Simon!
Do you have any plans to try Attolini who, as I’m sure you know have recently opened on Mount Street.
I am actually in the process of doing so!
Nice, I look forward to reading about it sometime soon.
One more question, have you considered had much of a look at Clothsurgeon on Savile Row and if so, what’re your thoughts?
I’ve chatted to him a few times. Lovely guy, and I admire what he’s built, but his styles aren’t really for me.
Also, this is nothing personal against him, but a lot of the new people that have moved into the Row talk about being on the Row and about they’re the first X or Y to be there. But they’re benefiting from the name and not really adding to it, growing it. Savile Row has a lot of issues, and it needs good tailors and similar high-craft traditional makers there to support and grow what it is – not brands that are not that connected but like using the name.
Any plans to try Grey Flannel?
Not currently, but certainly interested what Ben and the rest of the team do there to update the shop
I’ve tried both the Napoli and Toscana lines from Saman Amel and have been thoroughly impressed—refined tailoring, elegant proportions, and exceptional craftsmanship. Their Stockholm atelier is a gem – intimate and understated
I don’t live in a city with many tailors of this caliber, so I often have to travel to get fitted by a tailor I really love. But because the fitting requires travel, it’s really difficult to do a second fitting. Typically the way the tailor makes up for that is by examining the garment by Zoom, and offering to cover any further alterations as part of the initial purchase price. The tailor can either handle himself, or the alterations can be done locally if simple enough. Is this a sensible way to do MTM, or is the experience and final product meaningfully cheapened or degraded without an in-person second fitting?
The complicated answer is that it depends on the tailor, but the shorter answer is that this is a decent way to operate if access is a problem. If it’s working well for you then I wouldn’t worry about it, particularly if you’re not talking about top-level bespoke
Curious what you mean by “depends on the tailor” but I understand if you don’t have time to go into it. Thanks again, as always.
I just mean that in my experience the ability of tailors to do remote fitting like that varies quite a bit
Got it. I guess the alternative would be traveling twice. That seems a but excessive. Could also just wait a long while between fittings. I guess I’m just not disciplined enough for that! The nice thing is that I think I am an easy fit. RTW is tough bc I’m on the lanky side. But usually all I need is a longer length and lower buttoning point, which is pretty easy to do. So I think this approach is fine, if unideal. Thanks again and great article!
As this , my 3rd comment , proves I’m really enjoying reading the comments to this article .
Simon, at the risk of repeating what may previously have been said to you multiple times , we really need evermore explanation on RTW and MTM and what can be achieved.
I’d really love to see a PS video on this .
Something along the lines of actually showing a MTM block , showing what more can be done on that MTM block then on a RTW block, a side by side comparison of a same brand RTW against the MTM .
The comments section alone and learning about others MTM suggestions has been a real gift .
Overall , when it comes to price for MTM I don’t sense criticism from the comments but a real yearning to buy better then they currently are but within their budgets.
I’d really welcome another article which began a discussion and suggestion on readers MTM across budgets.
Thank you .
Thank you Robin, and yes that’s a great idea
Hi Simon,
Thank you very much again for both your good company and your great advice the other day when we got together. I really enjoyed our chat and I got so much out of it.
As expected I have a few follow up questions, a few of which I’ll add below (as they sort of fit this article) and a few I’ll add to more relevant articles.
Before that I thought a few general thoughts about meeting you and getting your advice directly might be helpful for your readers
– I wish I had done this earlier. In trying to figure out a new ‘type/style’ of dressing (i.e. not a suit and tie in the office and not just jeans and t-shirts on the weekend) I’ve wasted so much money on trousers, shirts, jumpers, shoes and even socks that I never wear. If I’d spent some time with you 5 years ago I would have saved a lot of time, a lot of money and a lot of frustration (and guilt and remorse etc etc!).
– From a financial point of view, even if someone is just trying to figure out a few great outfits based on chino + shirt + jumper + shoes + socks + belt then I am certain that you would save them at least a thousand pounds on clothes that never/rarely get worn and those who do get your advice are far more likely to be getting it all right as well
– And for anyone thinking of commissioning something bespoke I think spending time with Simon beforehand is an absolute must. I think I’ve been pretty good at choosing suits over the years, but I still have two suits in the closet that I never wear (after trying to branch out from ‘standard navy’ and picking things that didn’t suit me).
To give some context here, my recent conversation with Simon was about commissioning a summer separate jacket and a winter separate jacket. I had something in mind for each of these, after I had done quite a lot of research and thinking about it. In our time together Simon improved on my idea for a summer jacket and quite rightly completely changed my idea on the winter jacket to something I would never have thought of, but that I’m sure will be so much better. We covered this and a few other details that I’d never been able to get right (and I think I am now) in a very enjoyable hour of chatting.
So, in short, I couldn’t recommend getting personal advice from Simon more. Even Simon, with all of his knowledge and experience – and his great eye for putting outfits together – has made many mistakes over the years and learnt from them. Which proves that putting outfits together and dressing well is surprisingly hard to get right! So why try and figure it out ourselves when we can have the help of someone with masses of experience, knowledge and good taste!
Thanks again Simon. All the best, Jon
Wow, that’s so nice to hear it’s been so useful Jon. Do carry on asking questions here or on any other post when I can be of assistance
Jon,
What were the original plans for your summer and winter jacket, respectively and what are the new plans? Cloth, construction, maker, etc.?
Cheers,
Rand
Having just bought my first separate jacket (a navy hopsack from Anglo for spring/summer), I’m intrigued what you and Simon ultimately decided on.
Hi Ollie, Hi Rand,
Simon and I are meeting up on Savile Row next week to finalise the choices (ie make sure I don’t do something stupid at the last hurdle). I’ll report back next week. Jon
Hi Simon,
Looking through this list, or maybe a bit more widely, who would you recommend specifically for trousers, rather than a full suit.
Ideally someone London based, or who visits fairly regularly.
Working in a casual tech office means jackets are pretty much a no-go, but elevating from standard jeans / chinos is an option, with a shirt and maybe a not overly fine knit.
Thinking around level 3 in your which office are you article from last year, when we’re swapping out jeans for flannels.
There are loads of results when searching for trousers, but I’m really not sure where to get started.
Appreciate any of your thoughts!
I’d say look at Manish’s piece on the best RTW trousers, and then see which of the brands do MTM.
Or indeed, try some of those and see if alterations to RTW work fine for you.
Although in your last article about MTM tailors you have known you dropped Hemingways I seem to recall that in your original review you said the trousers Toby Luper made for you were among the best fitting you’d had. Toby’s done a couple of pairs of flannels for me, and the fit is excellent.. He also did a MTM suit for me which fitted very well indeed. Although he is Leeds-based I believe he does come down to that London regularly to see clients.
I’d best declare an interest. I came to know Toby as my firm were the solicitors for the National Union of Tailors and Garment Workers, in which capacity I sued him on a regular basis. But he seems to have forgiven me.
Ha! Love it.
Yes, Toby’s trousers were very good. I’d say I’ve had better since, but not my much and we’re talking full bespoke
Great!
That’s spot on, feels like a perfect starting point.
Thanks!
Are max mogg suits made overseas?
Great article but Zegna is a big omission when it comes to MTM. In many regards they pioneered this methodology and their quality is off the Richter scale.
Of Course, you can get Zegna cloth at most tailors but it’s their style and above all their standard of finish that sets them apart. Indeed, their finish is much ahead of many bespoke tailors I’ve used.
Thanks David. Zegna’s style has never appealed to me that much, but I can see how it might do for others. I think the tailors can’t be the highest-end ones if they’re finishing was worse than Zegna, but perhaps that is the level price-wise
I got some stuff from P Johnson NYC a cpl years ago despite reading your reviews – mistake on my end (adding to the chorus here it seems). Everything needed a ton of alterations and fell apart after a few wears. They pushed me into some Miami Vice/wannabe 80s Armani style slick fabric which they said was woven especially for them but was really just from one of the standard stock books when I just wanted a classic summer suit from Smith’s solaro. The jacket just looks and feels cheap and sort of sleazy – seems like they care more about the shop interior designs than the clothes. Anglo Italian or even Suit Supply both far better options in my experience.
Hmm, thanks Leo, useful feedback
Thanks so much for this Simon, great for those of us who aren’t in the bespoke bracket. For what its worth, I have only been to the London P Johnson shop but the very nice chap there hasnt pushed the (somewhat questionable tbh) house aesthetic on me – generally all has a classically good fit but for a few quality issues from wherever the suits are made and had to be sent back for one order. Bought a linen sort of shirt suit thing last summer which got compliments but didn’t last more than a few wears! Surprised they’ve remained so long in London with the spots like the ones you mentioned above to compete with. Very curious about Husbands – great styling! Hope you get a chance to review them soon.
It may be hard to justify the Brioni price, being priced akin to a fully bespoke tailor, but man, that sure is a sharp jacket! You certainly must love the look of it, having picked the close-up photo to feature in the email and top of the article. I have always thought that Brioni’s breast pockets are so masterfully done, just the right size, curve and angle, with a very distinctive “lump” on the left side.
It is very nice, you’re right, and the finishing around things like the hems and armhole really are lovely – clearly done by hand, but neat, and resisting the urge to be over the top by doing two rows or too heavily
I read your thoughts on Saman Amel, and I have been with them for many years at this point. I agree I have seen my invoices go up but I also feel like my personal value has remained the same if not decreased. I no longer converse with Dag or Saman themselves although people like Dom are fantastic but the service should go up as the prices do to justify it. I struggle between finding an alternative brand so I’m not 100% allocated to Saman Amel but maybe 50% and then growing with another brand and being a patron to Saman Amel like your post several months back.
Hi Simon, thank you for the overview. I’m currently trying to learn more about different house styles to in turn learn more about what I prefer. I would like to know your thoughts on Max Mogg’s approach – especially since you mention that it is not quite your style. From other posts I understand that you typically prefer a softer, less structured style, whereas Max and team go for a much more structured style with quite pronounced features (e.g. roping of the shoulders). Is that understanding correct?
Yes that’s right Jonathan. It’s mostly the pronounced features, as you put it, that turn it into a more distinctive style. Wider lapels, real high rise trousers, and so on
How does one find out about JMM Trunk Shows in London? I can’t seem to find the website.
You have to contact them directly, they’re small so there aren’t big trunk shows, JM just comes over a few times a year to see a handful of clients each time
I came here to ask the same question but for New York rather than London. I see on insta that JMM recently concluded a trunk show in NYC but I don’t recall seeing anything by way of an announcement.
When you say ‘contact them directly’ do you mean by telephone? DM on insta? Like Alex, I haven’t been able to find a website or email address.
Yes I would message on Instagram or phone. It is a small operation and mostly deals with clients that have come by the Paris shop
Thanks very much. As it happens I’ll be in Paris next month. I’ll try reaching out and see if I can make an appointment at the shop while I’m there.
Sounds good Steven. They are a lovely team
Circling back on this. I tried messaging JMM on Instagram but didn’t hear anything back. After a couple of weeks I then tried phoning directly but I think I ran into the fact that most of Paris shuts down for the month of August as it went straight to voicemail. I did try stopping by the shop when I was in Paris this past Friday but it was closed and the windows papered up.
I think my take away is that a small Paris based atelier with no real online presence isn’t going to be the best fit for me. I’ve reached out to Jake Mueser regarding my next commission.
I think that’s fair Steven, you’ll certainly have more availability that way
Hi Simon,
What is your experience with Drake’s MTM? How is the quality?
Thanks
I haven’t tried it I’m afraid
Hi Simon,
Thanks for the wonderful write up and certainly MTM is a more approachable product for everyone here, myself included. Being located in Southeast Asia myself, I’m naturally more inclined towards that are based in HK, Japan, and South Korea. Just curious about your comment regarding the second suit you commissioned from the Armoury, what was it that made it not as good as the first one? Was this an issue that is easily fixable or something more permanent in nature? And lastly, would you still recommend The Armoury’s MTM product despite the mixed results that you got? Thank you.
I think I would, yes. The second suit was in a Zegna cashmere/cotton material that was very hard to fit and had no drape at all. It still wasn’t as good as the first one, but I think the material was a factor as well
Thank you for your reply, Simon. Oh and I look forward to hearing your review on Assisi’s MTM product. I just ordered an MTM suit from them myself and given that I have no suit yet, I play it safe by ordering a single breasted, notch lapel, dark navy suit in Finmeresco 4-ply (believe me when I said it took all my will power and some more to stop myself from getting the same exact suit as your amazing DB grey as my first order from them haha!).
Your advice (and Mark Cho’s) regarding your preference over the the 4-ply for a hot-weather suit definitely made it easier for me to decide on the fabric, so thank you for that. (This was from your article titled “Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: review”)
Oh good, lovely to hear Oliver.
I’d like to recommend Glenn Au from Junior’s. I had a beautiful navy blazer in Fox Air cloth made for my wedding, and I wear it at least once a week. The house style is solidly Ivy, and he had enough flexibility for certain traditional details like top-stitched seams and a longer vent. The jacket came out fitting as close to perfect as I can imagine, though I’ve never had anything made by a true bespoke tailor so I don’t know if it could be even better somehow. Glenn was very gracious and specifically met me in Boston when I was visiting, and I highly recommend anyone who wants traditional Ivy style tailoring made to measure to go to him!
Dear Simon,
Could you please explain for the non-connoisseurs what is “Munro”? It’s popped up in several threads and twice in this one and I fail to understand if it’s a brand or a concept or something completely different.
Thanks!
They’re a manufacturer of suits – they operate to an extent under their own name, but mostly they make for others. They supply a lot of the mid- to low-price MTM companies
any thoughts on Drake’s? Trying to decide b/w Armoury, Mueser, & Drake’s for a tweed sport jacket. thanks.
I’d say I’d go primarily for the style, but I haven’t tried them myself so can’t say much more than that
I enjoyed very much enjoyed your article, it was quite helpful. I’m currently using Jake Mueser for two commissions. I was wondering what your view was on Cad & The Dandy for suits/formal wear?
I’ve never used them myself, but I haven’t really been encouraged to by the experiences of friends
What’s your opinion about stòffa?
Amazing company, love them. I wouldn’t put their tailoring in this category though.
There’s lots on Stoffa if you search on PS – eg here
For readers in Scotland, I have used Craig Banks Tailoring in Edinburgh a few times. Craig trained in Ede & Ravenscroft so his measuring is pretty good.
There is a large range of fabrics and a basic suit starts about £ 950 approx but obviously if you are going full Loro Piana cashmere it’s going to be a lot more.
Craig is good at guiding customers who are not sure what they really want and is happy for customers to supply their own fabric, which I have done.
The garments are made in England and take about 4-6 week approximately alterations/adjustments can be done quickly in Edinburgh.
I’d back you up if I could get hold of him. 4-6 weeks is a stretch. I’ve been waiting the best part of a year. I’ve since visited another local tailor with whom I’ve had an incredible experience, and I’ve been wearing those garments very happily as I wait to hear from Craig.
I wanted to get your take on MTM shops like Enzo Custom (or similar – many feel the same). You typically see great fabrics and a decent amount of customization with build quality that seems decent but not great. Do you feel that the J Muesers of the world represent ~$1500 of more value?
I don’t know because I haven’t tried ones at that level, or know anything about Enzo Custom I’m afraid
Very interesting list Simon. Thank you for a great article. My thoughts on MTM were initially that bespoke would deliver a better fit and product every time. I used to use a traveling tailor from Florence with very mixed results (wont mention any names). I was reluctant to transition to a local MTM house but after the switch every garment has been consistently well fitted which was something that was missing from the bespoke experience. Just wanted to mention that while the bespoke experience in theory should be better than MTM, it is not the case every time. I think MTM is worth exploring and probably is going to outcompete bespoke in many areas.
I agree, thanks Michael
Hi Simon,
Can you share your experience about turnaround times for JMM Trunkshows? What’s the ETA from being measured, to first fitting, to delivery of final product?
I’m keen on trying JMM when they visit NYC.
Hey,
Sure. Check with them how often the visits are to NYC, but in London JM is here every 3-4 months I think and generally the suit has been delivered with small final touches needed (common on MTM) at the second meeting. Then it’s finished and sent to me. So it can be pretty quick
Hi Simon, any thoughts on Prologue mtm in London?
Not particularly, they have a new guy running it here and I haven’t tried them
Simon, do you recommend any tailor in Canada? We have nothing here, each time I have to fly to New York.
I don’t know any I’m afraid, no. Sgr Francesco was an old guy that got some attention for a while, but I don’t think he’s working any more
Hi Simon,
I recently had bespoke linen trousers made for the first time. I’ve used it three times already, so now I am unsure whether I should wash and iron it, or just wash it. What do you usually do?
And if you say wash it, do you send it for dry cleaning? Or do you do it yourself in cold water?
Thanks,
GG
I wouldn’t do anything unless you really think they look dirty. And try sponging with water and then pressing (ironing) before dry cleaning if you can. Some tailors/cleaners also do a sponge and press, which is the same thing but done professionally, and better for the trousers than dry cleaning
Hiya Simon,
I’ve been a reader of PS for a while now and have a variety of PS collaborative items stocking my wardrobe. Naturally a copy of the magazine too. I was prompted to comment after watching the Son of a Stag pub chat video.
My question, given that a lot of my interests align with PS, is would starting a blog of my own be a bit redundant? What I imagine would be a differentiator is that I would have a greater focus on casual items, with a slightly lower price range though with the same hope that I could develop my own collaborative projects.
To put it in a set of questions, if you are content to answer them:
– what advice would you give to a menswear enthusiast about starting a blog?
– how would you find a niche that can curate a healthy audience? or simply find the audience?
– how did you approach your first company (I assume PWVC) to leverage the popularity of the blog in order to create a collaborative project and what would you advise to those who aspire to do the same?
Any answers are greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Hey Richard,
I would definitely say it’s worth starting one if:
– you genuinely think you have something different to say (rather than just liking the idea of it, or the perceived lifestyle etc)
– you’re prepared to work hard, consistently and professionally, without necessarily easy reward
And I’d do it on Substack today, that’s a great world to build into.
I wouldn’t start with the idea of working with a brand to release product. That can come later. We did tiny ones for ages before we started working with PWVC, and none of them made much money.
There’s a lot of other advice I could give but there isn’t that much space here. I feel like I’ve written some of it in a blog post before but I can’t find it – if any readers can then please remind me!
Many thanks Simon.
It’s definitely driven from an interest, not just the items themselves and how to style them but the manufacturing process and materials used too.
If there isn’t a recent post that you can find, perhaps you could collate all the info in a more recent one? Whilst naturally I’d appreciate that, I’m sure there are other readers who would too.
Hi Simon,
Thank you for everything you have taught us over the years. Much appreciated.
I’m curious as to why you haven’t tried Attolini?
They seem to be in the range of menswear you cover and are well regarded in terms of design and unique fabrics they offer.
Will you ever try them for MTM?
I’m sure many would love to see your review.
That’s actually brought up a little above in the comments Michael – I’m in the process of doing so at the moment!
Long time customer of Saman Amel. Outstanding suits, own several. Were mine almost daily at work.
Hi Simon, what about AskOkey MTM? New line from Japan at affordable prices.
I wouldn’t do a remote option, even if the style appealed – that is alluded to above
Hi Simon,
I‘m wondering why you are listing Max Mogg, but Massura is missing in your list.
Good point, the first Massura jacket wasn’t great but they did improve with the second
Simon. That Jake Mueser jacket’s material is enchanting. I hope to stumble upon a bolt of it one day.
Some of the best MTMs I had made were from Pasinato in Vicenza. Last commission was in 2022 and it costed about 1,250 euro, including sleeves attached by hand. Great fit and value for money. Not sure about prices now.
Any suggestions for local, Tokyo-based MTM, besides Bryceland and the occasional trunk shows of Asian tailors?
What I’ve seen from Ring Jacket has been good, but that’s through the Armoury. Still worth a try, and I presume good value given it’s all made in Japan
Since I don’t really see them discussed I thought it’s worth mentioning that I had a really good experience with Thom Sweeney MTM. Their pricing appears to be at the higher end of the spectrum (a little over $4000 for a suit, although that might now be their lowest fabric level), but I like the style of their RTW and they advertise that their MTM is made in the same factory with the same standards. I was measured by Rich, their head of MTM, and the fit came out almost perfectly, with just a slight adjustment needed on the sleeves length.
A question for Simon: Do you see a justification for that price point? Are they charging a premium for the brand, or is there a real cost for having it made alongside their RTW? Obviously, value is in the eye of the beholder, and I was pleased with the result.
I don’t think so Jake – it’s the standard to have RTW and MTM made in the same place
Simon, it’s great to see Anglo-Italian on your MTM list. I’m a big fan. I hope you will have a video conversation with Jake Grantham. I think your readers would be interested to hear him discuss the Anglo silhouette in contrast to others as well as his philosophy of the relationship of tailoring to casual clothing.
Thank you Travis, yes I agree
Hi Simon, on the general topic of pattern matching, how big of a reliable indicator is it for spotting good tailors.
Checks across the arms and bodies are generally a given, but I’ve sometimes seen pin/chalk stripes not matching perfectly between the lapel and collar from famous tailoring houses. Of course, I recognise that there is difference between a tailor trying their best to pattern match to an extent vs straight up not pattern matching. The bottom line is: is it really that deep if the stripes don’t meet each other perfectly?
No I wouldn’t say so. You don’t want anything obviously wrong, but I wouldn’t put it high in my list of priorities. Also, occasionally there are fit reasons why things don’t line up that you don’t initially think of
For those from Northern Ireland; there’s Andrew Watson which I’ve alluded to in a couple of previous posts. The fit on my jacket and trousers commissions were very good and comfortable with a fair selection of cloth from Loro Piana, H &S, Bateman & Ogden and Dugdale etc
A good selection of ready to wear and accessories too.
Sorry Simon, Andrew Watson is based in 11 Upper Queens St in Belfast close to the city hall and have an excellent webpage.
Do you have any plans to look at the Richard James MTM offering, or indeed, known anything about it? I know you’ve been complimentary about their bespoke previously so wondered how the MTM stacked up.
I have bought a couple of their RTW pieces which I have generally been happy with, albeit at sale prices, so was considering them as an option for stepping up to MTM when that is an option available to me.
No plans I’m afraid, no. I haven’t actually tried the RTW in a long time, but it would be different from the bespoke, which is a separate operation
Thanks for the response. They run the MTM from the bespoke shop according to their website, so wasn’t sure if it was part of the bespoke operation rather than the RTW. Anyway, I am not quite at that point yet, so will continue to ruminate on it.
Meant to say, another great article, very informative and an entertaining read, but it almost goes without saying on PS!
It is always nice to hear though Jonathan. Thank you
I would recommend Acre and Row. I had a linen suit made by them this summer and I was really happy with both the suit and the service. The suit came out beautifully and I look for any excuse to wear it. It was also a really enjoyable experience. Dav, the owner, deals with everything himself. He was great at guiding me through the process, steering me in the right direction, but also making sure I got exactly what I wanted. You wrote a piece recently about tailors who have style. Dav is really stylish himself which gives you a really good idea of what you are getting from him. I will be going back to him for my next suit.
How does one get into contact with Jean Manuel Moreau to ascertain when they are next in Brussels?
Phone or Instagram
hi Simon,
can you say which jacket you get the most wear out of?
and is this also the most pleasurable wear?
Out of the ones in this list? I’d say the Bryceland’s in the PS houndstooth. It’s probably also the most enjoyable to wear, yes, though there are different facets to enjoyment of course. For example wearing something a little brighter like the Brioni is a different form of enjoyment
Good day everyone,
I find the world of made-to-measure, in many ways, even more complex than bespoke. Bespoke is straightforward, kind of…best entrusted to those with a recognized background, i still believe many can sew but few are true tailors with cutting skills.
MTM offers far more options, cause technically “easier” (at least to my knowledge, correct me if wrong) but the finished garment is still depending from the skills of the tailor.
My necessities (I love wearing tailoring Vs. budget awareness) pushed in in trying MTM and in last couple of years I’ve been commissioning from “Il Bavero”, a Rome atelier offering both MTM and Bespoke. To be honest I’ve tried both options and are equally great, with of course a different price point! I will remain with them for a long time.
Their clean, English-inspired style and excellent fit, paired with impeccable service. For now, I see no reason to look elsewhere and if someone is in Rome, give it a try or have a talk to Daniele, such a nice guy.
Enjoy the summer!
Husbands offers only made to order (i.e. ready to wear measurements only), not made to measure, although you can still adjust basic things like sleeve length.
Would you say there’s an upper limit to how much it makes sense to spend on RTW before moving up to MTM, and similarly an upper limit for MTM before transitioning to bespoke?
Hi Morten That’s an interesting question! In the U.K. I’d say if you’re getting above £1.5-£2k you are in the territory of some of the cheaper MTM options that might be the point where I’d think of switching.
For bespoke, I think it becomes less of an issue of price and more about what do you want that you can’t get from your MTM maker? Better fit, higher level of craft, specific house style, creative control of design. However, if I had to put a figure on it I might say £3k upwards.
The made-to-measure business has transmogrified in more than the past decade. As someone who as worn made-to-measure purposely and not bespoke, much of the interest and intent focus has really come from outside influences, namely contemporary men’s fashion that have a specialism in tailored clothes. Many American men’s wear designers came to the fore nearly twenty years ago that were heavily influenced by film and cinema, auteurs and artists. They transformed that into a romantic or directional view of men’s tailoring. Whilst not made-to-measure, consumers were noticing more closely how the clothes were constructed, who the clothes were made by and a particular interest in fabrics. They’re were beautiful people in that space, for example, Paula Gerbase, but now, many of those businesses weren’t sustained. It’s how many people in that age demographic grew with a strong men’s interest in tailoring and clothing. Conversely, I started witnessing the nascent beginnings of small businesses creating made-to-measure, especially if they studied fashion, and began their experiences working for tailors or large fashion houses. So, over time, this notion of made-to-measure tailoring grew into greater consciousness. Not all made-to-measure operations are the same, but there are a number of examples in which it has cross-polinated into what would be best described as semi-bespoke. Some are able to provide made-to-measure but with an individual pattern made. And also within the business, a bespoke option is provided with a full basting process. Whilst I don’t feel made-to-measure is completely necessary in everyday life, it’s a rewarding experience to simply ask to make trousers or shirts made, fitted for you, with your own choice of cloth. Today, it’s a good chemistry that made-to-measure and traditional bespoke can co-exist. But, my personal sentiment is clothes are not priceless and we shouldn’t be too precious about them, especially when we become older.
Hi Simon — I mention this on behalf of a friend. He has worked with numerous tailors, some of whom rank very high, and off late he worked with someone on this list who used a contrasting colour for pick-stitching / decorative stitching on the suit (white stitching on a brown suit). Naturally, this looks strange and he is rightly concerned. I was wondering whether you have ever encountered something of this nature, and if you had any counsel beyond of course raising it with the tailor? (He is fond of the tailoring house, and is essentially baffled at the situation.)
Oh dear. No I have never heard of a good bespoke or MTM tailor doing that, it’s such a cheap move. I would raise it with the tailor and ask them not to use it
Thanks very much, Simon. I have passed on your message. I am curious though about whether this is even possible. Pick stitching is quite intricate and widespread on a garment, will replacing it not leave an impression or have other effects?
Yes that is a possibility
Hello Simon, and apologies for jumping in but I have a similar query. I had a beige linen jacket made, and the tailor did the stitching around the buttonhole in a contrasting coloured threat. I don’t think it looks awful but it is not what I would have chosen – it does stand out a bit and I think it makes the jacket look a little cheap. (He’s always used threads that match the jacket material previously).
Do you know if its an easy task to have buttonhole stitching removed and replaced? I’d like an idea of how big a deal this is before I raise it with the tailor.
Thanks.
It’s possible, but it’s not a small job and the buttonhole might not be as neat on the second go. Still, most tailors should be able to do it fairly easily
Thanks for the info. I’ll speak to him…
Thank you for this post. Based in New York and trying to decide between J Mueser MTM (or the Mayfair) and The Armoury MTM (Ring Jacket).
Without question you are a fan and supportive of both services. You have written thoughtfully about both services – thank you. How does one decide between the two? If the decision came down to Mayfair vs Ring Jacket – irrespective of price – how would you think about that?
I would look most at the two styles and see which appealed to me most – both the cuts and generally how the two are styled by the staff. I would also ideally go and see both and try them, before placing an order, rather than try and decide too much remotely
Hello! Great article. Any thoughts on Blugiallo?
Not really. They’ve always seemed like a fairly generic brand though, without much personality of their own
Do you have any advice about which of these blocks and styles match with different body types? I’m athletic with very broad shoulders so finding the right MTM block can be a challenge.
Most of them are fairly similar, soft Italian styles. I’d avoid someone like Sexton unless you want to emphasise those shoulders, but other than that those top ones will have a similar, soft style
Is there a substantial quality difference between JMueser vs AngloItalian vs The Armoury Ring Jacket?
Thank you!
Without going into lots of details, there are some differences but not big ones. The first two are made in Italy, and the biggest difference between them is style rather than make. Ring Jacket is made in Japan but is also not that dissimilar
Is there a traditional English cut MTM you would recommend in London? Not counting Sexton, which has got a very strong style.
There’s a real lack of this generally, because Italian makes predominate so much. But the New & Lingwood one I’ve seen a really nice result from, and that is more English
To chime in on the discussion here, I’d argue that Jean-Manuel Moreau’s style actually is quite distinct. Perhaps because it has a more classic touch than houses that lean closer to trends and fashion in suiting, it can come across as understated at first. It is Neapolitan in spirit, but cut on its own terms: a consistently strong neckline flowing into gentle shoulders, with either a soft spalla camicia or a restrained con rollino depending on context. The jacket cut slightly longer than the Neapolitan norm, with a lower buttoning point, giving way to broad sweeping lapels, paired with trousers that have a well-balanced rise and clean drape. This signature is pretty consistent and easy to spot on Jean-Manuel himself, on Nicolas, and across many clients featured regularly on his Instagram.
Hi Simon, which of these styles do you think would best suit a summer jacket that has the potential to go with jeans. I am thinking a WSL or heavy linen jacket that is flexible enough to dress up and down.
From their instagram JMM look to be quite smart and I think the slight roping from the Anthology may make them tricky with jeans.
Maybe Anglo-Italian or J. Mueser?
I’d say J Mueser would probably be able to do the most casual of those, though all of them are not that different in terms of the amount of structure and can adapt to have less roping (except perhaps for Anglo)
Many thanks Simon, I like the Mueser style, shame I have just missed their trunk show in London. When you say except Anglo do you mean they don’t have roping to start with so they don’t need to adapt or something else?
Thinking of fabric do you think these could work for what I am after?
https://www.hfwltd.com/single_piece/261711
https://drapersitaly.it/gb-en/collection/50668/
I also really like Manish’s Midmay linen but I think you warned in that article against wearing with jeans and I can see it is perhaps not textured enough.
I’m worried that’s going to be the issue with most of the spring/summer fabrics, but I’m determined to find something.
No worries HM. No I meant more than Anglo have more of a design view so may be less willing to change the shoulder and sleevehead to what you want, if it isn’t that already.
To be honest I think both those fabrics look nice but could also be a little tricky with jeans – wool/silk/linens usually come up quite smart, a touch shiny, and wools like that are quite sharp. Hence why it describes it as for a suit.
It’s a hard area unfortunately for cloths, and is one reason so many people use linen
Hi Simon,
I apologize for reviving a thread on an article this old but I am in the market for a new MTM tailor as my tailor in Milan has closed down.
As I mentioned previously, I have a MTM jacket in the works with the Assisi team done at your HQ but i am now in the market for a single breasted flannel Prince of Wales suit for business meetings etc. I was considering going back to Assisi but I think their MTM single breasted standard is a bit too unique for my banking job so I’ve begun looking elsewhere.
After reading through 50 articles on the site I wanted to come back with a few questions. If you could chose:
WW Chang bespoke- was looking to keep the bespoke cost around 3/3500 EUR which seems to be in line with their offering
Sam Amel Toscana line
JMM
For this type of project which of the above would you recommend? As they are all hosting trunk shows in my area in March I am able to pick any of them without having to travel too far.
As always thank you for the helpful guidance!
I’d say probably WW Chan, unless you especially love the Saman Amel style for some reason
Hi Simon,
Who from this list would you recommend for a warm weather navy hopsack jacket? I’m looking to have one made as my first separate jacket. I will be attending the upcoming Jean-Manuel Moreau London trunk show so I was thinking of approaching them about it as I like the look of their work.
My only reservation would be your mention of them having less of a strong style, but I suppose that might actually be a good thing for a jacket like this, especially if it’s my first. But, I was wondering if there’s anyone else you would consider?
I think they would do a very good job, and it would be a good Neapolitan style as well.
All the non-structured ones in here I would consider as well, but if you like JMM then I’d go for that one
Thanks Simon,
Excuse me for being a little unseasoned, but which ones would be considered non-structured?
Secondly, would you generally recommend Neopolitan or Italian style tailoring for a hopsack jacket? I was looking at the hopsack jacket Paolo Martorano did for you which I like the look of. But I gather that’s more of an unusual style for hopsack and stylistically a bit fuller or considered close to English drape.
Hey Edward,
No worries! All the ones up to the Armoury are, and the Armoury has a range of options.
Neapolitan is a subset of Italian (sorry, more terminology) and is the softest. Either would be great, they’re just different styles. The Neapolitan would be more casual.
Paolo’s one is nice but is not Italian or Neapolitan, it’s much more of a structured make, yes
Hi Simon – Does Jean-Manuel Moreau have a website/how do you get in touch? All I can find is an Instagram account (and I don’t have Instagram)
No, he just uses Instagram or phoning the shop