Introducing: The Herringbone Donegal Overcoat

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This feels like it’s been a long time coming. Probably because I just got excited about this material a good year ago, and started talking to people about it soon after. 

The wait is also not over quite yet, though. Due to delays everyone is suffering at the moment - petrol, people, pingdemics - the new Donegal coat will be shipping in about two weeks’ time. The cloth only arrived a week ago. 

But expectations have been so high for this particular collaboration, and we’ve had so many questions about it, that seemed best to put it on sale now. At the very least, it means readers can effectively pre-order theirs, and so stop worrying that they might miss out. 

If you would like the new grey-herringbone iteration of our now most popular-ever product, the PS Donegal Coat, you can buy yours on the PS Shop here. It will be shipped out to you in about two weeks, and you will get regular updates during that time confirming the schedule. 

So why was I so excited about this version of the Donegal? 

I think it was mainly that I see it as potentially the most useful we’ve ever done. 

I know I talk about versatility a lot, but when you’re spending several hundred pounds on something, I feel it should have broad application. Particularly for younger readers that don’t have a full wardrobe already. 

And grey herringbone has always been a cloth I’ve recommended, both for jackets and coats. My Anthology tweed jacket has been shown on PS with everything from beat-up jeans to a shirt and tie on stage in New York. It is the only colour and pattern that I’ve found can bridge that extent of casual and formal. 

And it’s no less useful as a coat. Something like a camel polo coat can bridge casual to formal too, but it’s still a more unusual and striking option in either scenario. Grey herringbone is both subtler and easier. 

The issue I have with most grey herringbone coat materials is that the pattern is too small. It’s almost more texture than pattern. 

That’s fine if you want to tip towards the smarter end of the spectrum, in a tailored, double-breasted overcoat for example. But it can be a bit smart for a raglan coat, and makes them too uniformly grey for jeans or workwear chinos. 

The first two iterations of the PS Donegal Coat (here and here) used a fairly small herringbone too, but that was because it was meant to be texture - something added to a charcoal and dark-brown coat respectively, alongside the Donegal flecks, to add surface interest. 

With this version, the pattern was important - to make it a herringbone coat, rather than just a grey one. To make it the first thing you noticed. 

As we all know from talking about suits, casual things often have more pattern, and this is no less true here. 

It is that stronger pattern that makes a weekend coat as much as a business one - and of course means it suits a wide swathe of people that is now dressing more casually, but still wants to be well put-together. 

In pursuing this perfect pattern, the first thing I tried was to increase the contrast in the colours of the herringbone. Where version one was charcoal and black, and version two brown and black, I tried two options with version three: grey and black (as most mainstream coats are) and cream and black. 

The latter was much better, but it still lacked something. The pattern was a bit too small. I didn’t want anything as dramatic as my Connolly coat, but it still felt too much like texture. 

So having talked to the weavers, we switched from a 2x2 to a 3x3 twill. This basically means the twill is bigger, so each herringbone line is wider, and the pattern becomes bigger too. 

I loved the final result. It seemed like the perfect balance between a smart, elegant chic-casual overcoat and a sportier, relaxed, Ivy-style coat.

I’ve shown those two looks in these images, with the smart version above - sharp trousers and a nice knit - and the casual one below - jeans and a T-shirt.

I deliberately kept the colour schemes similar in these outfits, in order to focus on the contrast in formality.

So even though the smart outfit doesn’t involve a jacket, the cream-corduroy trousers and navy knitwear look much more dressed-up. There’s also a crisp, stark white shirt above, and dark-suede shows below.

The casual outfit uses white too, but a heavyweight T-shirt instead of a shirt; there’s navy, but a chunky shawl-collar cardigan; and then of course mid-blue jeans, which makes anything and everything more casual. 

The coat - strong of pattern but subtle of colour - goes with both beautifully.

The other lovely thing about grey herringbone, I’ve found over the years, is the way it works with bright colours. 

We know from tailoring discussions that mid-grey is often good in this regard, but the casual herringbone pattern helps too. 

It’s one reason my grey-herringbone jacket is the one pictured with a pink-oxford shirt in that article, and a yellow oxford in this one

With this larger-scaled coat, I’ve shown how it supports strong colour with a large saffron-yellow scarf in the photo below, and in other shots around this piece with the bright-red PS watch cap

A raglan, balmacaan-style coat is the best partner for long scarves or shawls by the way. Its long fronts mean the scarves hang easily, naturally, despite being so oversized. Much better than with a double-breasted tailored coat - where it’s too big to go underneath, and can seem a little forced when draped over the top. 

All this so far has presumed that you, the reader, are familiar with the PS Donegal that I’ve enjoyed designing and offering the past three years. 

If you’re not, here’s an efficient summary. 

The PS Donegal Coat was born ​​out of a need for a versatile coat that could be worn with jeans for a walk, or tailoring to the office. Something that could be thrown on, almost without thought, and yet be rigorously designed that it always flattered the wearer. 

To that end, it is a little longer than most (but can be shortened if required) to add a touch of flair, and that’s balanced by a slightly higher collar that effectively frames the face. That collar stays up when put up, due to curved insert on the neck. And the standard throat latch is reshaped to sit more elegantly when not in use. 

It has both two internal breast pockets, and a large hip pocket (iPad sized) in which to keep a hat, book or anything else bulky. The outer hip pockets are lined with cashmere.

It has a distinctive yet subtle lining in antique gold; and the buttons are matte two-hole buffalo horn - a style more commonly seen on Savile Row, and reflecting my love of bespoke tailoring. 

Just as important as the style, though, in fact probably more so, is the Donegal wool. 

Donegal tweed is so pleasing and unique in its texture. There’s slubbiness in there, an authentic and natural look, plus great colour variation when you look carefully, but compared to other traditional cloths it never feels old-fashioned - unlike a big windowpane check for example.

The tweed is spun especially by Donegal Yarns in Ireland, the last remaining mill that makes the yarn - before being woven in Lancashire and then manufactured by Private White VC in Manchester.

For full details on the design and details of the Donegal Coat, have a read of the original launch article here

Ordering

  • The Donegal Overcoat costs £792 plus VAT. 
  • At the moment it is exclusively available through Permanent Style, on the webshop here.
  • There are sizes from XS (chest 46, Private White size 2) up to XXL.
  • Have a close look at the measurements below if you're unsure of sizing, and if in doubt compare them to a coat you already own.
  • However, the coat fit is pretty standard, so taking your normal size is usually safe. 
  • I am six foot tall and usually wear a size 50-chest jacket. I am wearing a Medium.
  • As with all PS products, there are free returns should you want to change sizes. Ships from the UK.

Measurements:

X-Small/2 Small/3 Medium/4 Large/5 X-Large/6 XX-Large/7
Chest 50.5cm 53 56.5 60 63.5 67
Waist 52 54.5 58 61.5 65 68.5
Bottom hem 58.5 61 64.5 68 71.5 75
Length 108.4 109 110 111 112 113
Sleeve 81 82 83 84 85 86
Cuff (width) 13.8 14.1 14.5 14.9 15.3 15.7

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man

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Tobias

Will the coat be available at PWVC website as well or could it sell out at PS shop beforehand?

Mait

Simon please consider making the small patch a bit larger, considering how fast small and medium sizes sold out there must be a lot of people who want one but are out of luck.

Alex

Simon – given the seemingly high levels of interest in all versions of this coat, might it be possible (dependent on PWVC, obviously) to have it available on an MTO basis, possibly in a small selection of cloths? If not workable on an individual basis, maybe a system where with X number of deposits in a waiting list, once that number is reached the next batch goes ahead?

Yash

Hi Simon and Alex.

Sorry to intercede, but I just wanted to give my viewpoint in relation to ordering ahead.

Speaking personally, I would be ok with ordering this far ahead for this coat and indeed any other product as:

1. When buying this kind of product I am ok to wait as they are all long term “keepers” so planning ahead by a few months makes no difference to me.

2. It would actually assist with budgeting and planning ahead.

Just my 2 pennies worth.

P.s Simon – absolutely love this (already have the last iteration in brown). But might have to get a size 2 in the next small batch you do before the year end, depending on when the PS Indulgent cardigan is released. I have the blue and ecru cardigans already so it depends on the new colour but I do want that and this coat. Might not be able to do both all at once. 🤭

Many thanks.

Yash

Yash

Hi Simon,
Many thanks for the update on the cardigan. Same principle applies – no rush. 😊
The delay is understandable and I think that these supply problems are being faced by all sorts of businesses across the breadth of industry.
Thanks.
Yash

Alex

Personally no, that wouldn’t be too far ahead. I’d guess it comes down to how well one has the basics covered; my wardrobe is now at the point where I’m more selective than ever and feel I have to plan carefully to make sure I’m not wasting money or hanging rail space by either duplicating or buying something which while lovely I just end up not wearing. I’d hazard a guess that a decent percentage of the PS readership put a fair amount of time and planning into making considered purchases which could make a GMTO scheme work, but I’m sure you will be the best judge of that!

Adam Jones

I think it could work – people wait 5-6 months for MTO shoes…. One possibility could be offering GMTO on more generic cloths with faster lead times and “special” cloths saved for annual PS releases.

Fletcher

I, for one, wouldn’t mind this level of lead time. I think for people acquainted with bespoke, ordering (several) seasons ahead is not too much of a turn-off.

Ant

And another happy shopper here willing to wait x months for an item.

I’m sure you’ve looked at this already, but would pre-ordering help you in terms of having committed/cleared funds for you to confidently order cloth/manufacturing slots in advance? (Perhaps only for the more expensive items like outerwear)

There is still a bit of a bun fight when it comes to items being released to the waiting-list – as an example, items in the most popular sizes can sell out so quickly that if you don’t get to the email within a day, you’ll have sold out.

Totally appreciate e-commerce was never the primary aim of the website, but I dare say you’d find a lot of people willing to pay and wait, if they were guaranteed to get the item.

RT

It’s an approach that seems to be used very effectively by Paynter jacket. it may be worth looking at what they do and/or speaking to them.

Initials CG

I’ll add to the support on the idea of ordering ahead with those lead times. It would be fantastic if all three cloth iterations were available.
I waited forever to get your trench. I’ve got to say it was worth the wait. One thought is to see how the liner could be made a tad warmer, but that is minor….
A big advantage is budgeting for these. I had to decide between the Donegal or the Trench, and when I got the Trench I just thought, “screw it! I’ll sell one of the kids…” Couldn’t believe it went so fast.
One question on sizing, if I can on your Bridge coat M compared to the Trench size M. If the Trench is just snug around the chest (liner and Harris Tweed jacket under) would you recommend sizing up to L for the Bridge coat? From the shop recommendation of a snug fit, I would imagine so but not sure how consistent the sizing from the Trench would be. Is the sizing of the Donegal and Trench pretty much the same?
Sorry, you’ve probably answered this a million times already…

Matt

Hi Simon. It looks very nice. Would you say it was ok for warmer weather, given the last several months we had might be the norm for future years? I’d hate to get it and it only be bearable to wear 3 months of the year.
Also I see the sleeve length looks quite long, where is that measured from?

Josh

Do you think you could switch to (or additionally include) a measurement from the centre point of the collar along the shoulder and down the sleeve to the cuff? This is a relatively common measurement online these days (and the standard for RTW shirts) and it’s SO much more useful because it is then completely independent of the shoulder style or seam width.

G

Simon
Going into the shop – the everyday denim cloth now doesn’t even show up as sold out, just non existent! Are you only doing lighter everyday now?

And when will there be some more denim cloth! My chambray shirt is my favourite cloth for bridging smart and informal and think a denim is next step
Thanks
G

RT

That’s a shame. I was really hoping to get a length or two.

Aaron

Looks really great. When I was looking for a balmacaan I initially wanted one in a large grey herringbone exactly like this, although went for the dark brown one of last year. If I hadn’t got that I’d certainly be buying this. I almost want it as well as I’d be more likely to wear it to court.

I will say one thing I’ve found is that – and maybe it’s because I didn’t have the sleeves adjusted – but the lining was a bit baggy near the cuffs (particularly on the left), which I found made it a pain to wear with tailored jackets.

Ludwig

Hi Simon,
I did get the first, charcoal iteration of this coat. Put I am now considering to replace it with this version.
One of the reasons that make me wonder is the first version’s thickness. I believe you mentioned somewhere that this grey version would wear warmer. Can you confirm this?
Thanks,
Ludwig

Chris K

Ahh Simon,

There isn’t much I can say about this one that you haven’t covered at length, absolutely wicked. I placed my order as soon as the email came through the other day, no hesitation required. The way you can push and pull this overcoat into different outfits and settings says it all, as you’ve clearly demonstrated here. I think you already know how well this one’s going to go down.

Despite already knowing how easily it can dress up when required, I particularly love your heavyweight tee/shawl/denim/cordovan outfit. This is the type of outfit that appears so straight forward, yet so effective, and looks so fresh, and relevant. It would cover my dress requirements most days of the week. If more people dressed even close to this, we’d all look more epic.

Quick question, I know your overcoat/outerwear wardrobe is extensive, you always have options, for every occasion, however say for younger readers with a more compact, capsule wardrobe, where their Donegal might be seeing more wear as a primary coat, would you rest a coat like this for a day between wears, similar to knitwear other wool etc. for the sake of longevity? I’ve done this instinctively with previous overcoats I’ve owned, however would love to get your take.

Great work Simon,

Ck

Josh

I joined the waiting list for this as soon as the sample cropped up in an unrelated article months ago, and pounced on the preorder after receiving the email. It really is the most “essential” coat design you’ve offered thus far, for all the reasons you describe, and I can’t wait to receive it. It looks so good in pictures here too ✨

Martins

Sadly I’m one of minority. Unless something has changed in sizing, I’ll have to sit this one out. I’m sure texture is as lovely as v1, but it’s too warm for me to layer up in London, and for wearing it just over knitwear, I’m swimming in 6, but 5 is too small. (6 is nice over the jacket)

But I reserve the right to change my mind once I see it in person in pop up or pwc store.

Stephen

Hi Simon,
I have to say your commitment to continuous improvement is admirable. One that other designers and manufacturers (not just in the clothing business) would do well to emulate.
It’s a great looking coat.
Well done.

Justin

This looks great! Sadly, my size already sold out in a matter of hours 🙁 I have written to the support email in hopes to get one this year (would be a great Christmas present to myself).

Cheers,
Justin

Justin

Thanks, Simon! I would have one question that came to my mind after evaluating the sizing (compared the Bridge coat in size 4 and the Donegal in size 3, as most of the sizing numbers match for these two).The size difference for the cuff (15 vs 14) – I have to honest, that I cant evaluate this due to lack of understanding. The bridge coat fits very well and sleeves are spacious but definitely not baggy. Is the difference substantial from your experience of would that be something minimal?
Thanks,
Justin

Justin

Thanks for the added feedback, Simon!

Regarding the second comment -I ususally see a noticifaction that comment is awaiting feedback but this time the commentjust dissapeared, thus I through it is some error on my side and just to be safe did write another one. My apologies for the inconvenience!

BR
Justin

Matt

Hi Simon. I just wanted to but-in here and say that there might be something wrong with the comment’s system. I can currently see comments written by other people that have the “Your comment is awaiting moderation” mark. For example, I can currently see Justin’s reply to your comment. “…Regarding the second comment -I ususally see a noticifaction that comment is awaiting feedback but this time the commentjust dissapeared…”

Sam

I spotted that too the other day (and it said “Your comment is awaiting moderation” rather than “This comment”), which was weird.

Adam

That large hip pocket is money. I have a bespoke overcoat and the one thing I’d change if I could is more practical internal pockets. I finally understand why women are so enthused with pockets on clothes.

Georgios

A great coat that id like to buy but the day you anounce it is the small size sold. Do you plan to have more smalls in the next days-weeks ?

Ian A

I hope you can meet demand, remembering the complements and sheer level of enquiry you received over a similar coat you wore from Connolly.

Dave

Thanks for going ahead and opening this up to pre-orders. I really didn’t want to miss this one and it’s nice to not have to keep worrying about it.

I love this new grey version for all the reasons you mentioned. And yet, I would jump at a chance to buy that beautiful dark brown version in addition, were it offered again.

MBB355

I, for one, hope for a re-issue of the charcoal version, with black herringbone and cream flecks. Mmm…..

Tom

+1 for the dark brown version! While I really like the look of this coat, the heavier dark brown version looks absolutely perfect to me. I am quite sad I missed it last year, if you ever do decide to revisit it I’ll (try to) be first in line.

Fashion Bear

Simon,
Just ordered one and I am quite excited. However, I’m just wondering, when it says that preorders are estimated to ship on 1/11, are you using the American or English convention for your dates? In other words, does the coat ship November 1 or January 11?

STEPHEN GORDON

Do you think this coat could pair well with a dressy blue suit, dress shirt and tie? In other words, can this be an all around coat for occasions casual as well as for more dressed up appearances?

Johannes P

Question on sizing; I’ve got the PS Bridge Coat in medium/pw4, is it recommended to take the Donegal Overcoat in medium/pw4 as well? The reason for asking is that it seems to be 3.5 cm wider over the chest than the Bridge Coat according to the measurements. Is this due to the idea that the Donegal should be worn more casually and loosely? (otherwise the Donegal in pw3 seem to match the measurements of the Bridge Coat in pw4)

Justin

Hi, Simon! To be sure I order the right one should the size be available, I would like to ask additionally about the waist size compared between Donegal PW4 and the Bridge Coat PW4. The 3 cm difference for chest would be ok for me as well, as the Bridge coat is quite snug for me in PW4 (which for this coat is a positive as I like it that way), however, I see that the difference for waist is 8cm, which seems like a lot but might not be (sorry, I am relatively inexperienced regarding coats)? Additionally, the shoulders of the Bridge coat PW4 for me are at maximum regarding wideness (any more and they would look a bit too wide). I was thinking about PW3 for the Donegal as most of the measurements were closer to the PW4 Bridge Coat, but would you rather advise taking PW4 for the Donegal as well? And how would the shoulders compare?
Would appreciate your comment very much, thanks!

Johannes P

For completeness (and to maybe help someone else with sizing) I ended up getting the same size, pw4, as in my Bridge Coat and now that I’ve received my Donegal Overcoat I would say that it was 100% the correct decision. The Donegal Overcoat is of course roomier over the chest, but in a really good way and sizing down to get the same chest width as the Bridge Coat would definitely have made the Donegal too tight for me (the Bridge Coat is boarderline too tight in the chest). (My chest measures 101cm / 40″)

Paul

Nice work Simon, a thing of real beauty and highly wearable to boot.

Richard

I can’t wait to receive mine! A bit nervous about sizing though. I have (and love!) the bridge coat in size 4 and ordered this coat in size 3.

Justin

Hi Richard,
would love to hear your feedback about sizing when you receive the coat, as I sadly missed out but would have the same open question.
Cheers,
Justin

Richard

I really do believe I made the right sizing choice ordering size 3. I definitely like the fit! It’s roomy enough, but still flattering. No problem wearing a sports jacket underneath, but also great with jeans and knitwear.
As for comparisons with other Private White garments I own:
As I’ve said, I have the Bridge coat in size 4. I think it’s the right size for me. If anything, the shoulders might be a tiny bit broad and the sleeves a tiny bit long. But not something that bothers me, especially not when wearing a sports jacket underneath.
I also have the Deluxe bomber in size 3. It’s a nice fit. If anything, it might be a bit snug in the chest, while the shoulder fit is fine. Obviously, I’ve never tried putting a sports jacket underneath this jacket.
Be aware that Simon in several comments have recommended to order the Donegal in the same size as the Bridge coat. I’m a bit surprised by this, also considering the advice on the product page in the PS shop («Unlike the Bridge Coat, it is not slim in fit and there should therefore be no need to size up.»). But who am I to question his advice…
Kind regards,
R.

Richard

I received my coat today – it’s a stunning coat I’m sure I’ll use and love for years! And I’m glad to say I believe my sizing choice was the correct one.

Chris

Hi Simon

A fantastic coat! Two unrelated questions:
1) I was on the waiting list but did not receive an email. Were only the top N people emailed in line with the stock available? (I did fortunately check the site on Friday and managed to place an order)
2) In the cream trouser outfit here, and in outfits you’ve shown in other articles, the cream trousers are worn with a white shirt with a darker knit over the top, and there’s nice dark/light contrast. The problem I have when wearing outfits like this is when it warms up and I remove the knitwear, leaving white shirt and light cream trousers or jeans. Then there’s no contrast and it looks a bit too much “all light”. Can you offer any advice here please?

Many thanks!

Chris

Cheers Simon. I suspected that may be the case with the cream/white, you just have to plan carefully.

Apologies re the email, it was indeed in the spam folder. Not sure if there’s anything that can be done on the sending side to make the emails appear less spammy to filters. It would be a shame for people to miss out for that reason. The original email confirming addition to the waiting list went straight to my inbox just fine. Perhaps using the recipients name rather that “dear readers” would help convince the spam algorithm.

Jason Wise

Sorry this is not related to the post but Im confused and I thought you would know the answer. I can’t seem to find any pocket squares on Drakes website…have they stopped doing them?

Nico

Move on to HN White, Jason
BR

Townsend

Hi Simon,
The coat looks great. I was wondering if you have any photographs of the coat buttoned up?

robert

hi simon, lovely coat. i’m wondering if you can enlighten me about button placement on a coat such as this? why is the top button usually (or always)? placed slightly further over than the rest of the lower buttons? this has always puzzled me and i’m fascinated to know the rationale. thanks,

Peter O

Beautiful coat, excellent fotos!

Jason

Simon,
Congratulations !
I was an early adopter of the first iteration of this and this release speaks to the wisdom of evolution rather than revolution.
Refine, refine, refine should be our mantra.
It’s the reason I drive a mini. Essentially it remains the same but it just keeps getting better because the concentration is on refinement and quality.
Well done.
Jason

Dan

Who would you recommend in London if I need to shorten the length of the coat or sleeves?

Dan

Thanks Simon. The coat length can be shortened though right?

Scott Waddell

Hi Simon, for us metric impaired, what are the x-large and xx-large chest sizes in inches? Thanks, Scott

Max

Hi Simon, great piece! I didn’t go through all the comments yet. Sorry if it was asked before. I assume the coat is able to be worn over a blazer comfortably, right? Also on you, wearing a 50? Best wishes

CT

Simon, one thing I’m a little confused by – I typically wear a 40 (50) sized jacket, but I find the PS Oxford to be a snug fit through the chest at 57cm in Medium after a couple of washes, while the PS Chambray shirt remains a spectacular fit at 55cm in Medium. This coat is 56.5cm through the chest in pw4. Any guidance as to how it fits relative to those two shirts? Perhaps there’s something to do with the fabric or difference in measuring a coat vs a shirt…
Thanks for the guidance. Discovering the PS shop a few months ago has punished my wallet but has yielded some spectacular shirts to date. Off topic, but the PS Chambray may be my single best buy of the last year or two – love the 100 Hands story and they produce great stuff.

Tony

Hi Simon!

I love the coat (and the fabric)! Just wish it was double breasted! Can you give me a hint on where I could buy this fabric or when you will have a db version? Thanks.

Tony

Thanks Simon. I hope it has a big herringbone pattern! Fingers crossed.

Thomas

Simon, That seems like a great price for a coat of that quality and design. No wonder it’s selling out so quickly. Well done.

zo

absolutely beautiful, i would have preferred a belt option to add more shape when needed. any chance you/pwvc can provide a belt or fabric so i can have it added at my own expense?

Mark

Why shoot in film?

Carl

Great (as always). I decided to sit this one out as I bought the brown one last year. I love the coat but can’t really justify it. I already have a bespoke DB navy overcoat and a navy pea coat as more “formal” coats so I think that is enough. With the wax walker and the motor trench I think that I am “covered”. Are there any differences (other than the fabric) between this one and the brown?

Alain Rocheux

Hello Carl,
If your brown PS coat was size 4 and you were interested I would buy it to let you get the new herringbone iteration from PS.
I personally prefer the brown over the grey by far. Works better with my current wardrobe.
Cheers
Alain

Oggi

Nice cream corduroy trousers Simon.A recent acquisition?Even in winter I think they would look good.Striking but in a good way.

Oggi

Not cream-corduroy then?

Steve Deal

Simon, what a beautiful investment piece. I’d love to have that cloth for a casual/smart jacket, something like an unbelted Norfolk. The way you describe all the thoughtful touches behind how the coat wears makes me think of robes. Have you perhaps already considered a PS robe offering? I can see many of your same deliberate design adjustment made to a useful and sturdy “housecoat” for men. Cheers, Steve

Steve

Hi Simon,

i wear mainly greys in the winter- mid greys, darker greys and charcoal. I have no doubt this coat will work with the mid to lighter greys but do you think this coat will work with darker greys to charcoal outfit?

John weeks

Nice coat, I worked for Burberry many years ago as a pattern cutter, I often used to draught coats for the boys in the row, it made me laugh how the boys struggled with such an easy coat to cut, must agree a very nice coat, I recently cut and made a very similar style coat to what you are wearing although herring bone it wasn’t Donegal, like the coat very much, well done

The Iron Dandy

Well, I was on the fence too long and missed out on my chance! On the waiting list now!

I’m curious, would it be possible to acquire some extra cloth some way? Assuming I end up getting one, I would like to add a belt to it, and I would obviously like to use the same fabric for that.

The Iron Dandy

No leftover pieces from the cutting that could be turned into a belt? 🙂 (can’t blame me for trying, right?)

Regardless, looking forward to getting mine.

BRENDEL

superb

Steve

Hi Simon,
A lovely coat that would have a welcomed home in many a wardrobe & outfit. As we all know everything is down to personal taste but I noted your jean length with loafers & off white socks. The trend seems to be with some brands to have trousers & jeans at ankle length ( half mast) with quite a lot of sock exposed when standing. Whilst I can understand this in warmer climates & without socks I’m not too sure on the look, it reminds me of spats or Michael Jackson. Personally I show less sock, or a glimpse with loafers, other than when seated & the rise in the leg. I think there is the danger of being on trend & hip & very Soho. I’d be interested in your view on this topic more especially with the casual look as opposed to tailoring & smarter suiting.

Steve B

Hi Simon,

That would be a good article plus maybe turn ups (cuffs) their height on trousers & jeans – some heights do seem too trendy & smack of youthful hipsters. But I know many like to show their socks. Again, bright sock, subdued, matching or contrast – possibly another article Simon.
It’s possibly a generation thing or just me. Half mast trousers have connotations of teenage boys growing out of their trousers. Likewise lighter denim jeans remind me of the 70’s where most were manufactured by stone washed, now thankfully we have darker indigo, wash them less & if they become too light or worn with can be relegated to rugged beachwear use.
Thank you again for these PS articles & the forum feedback which is always thought provoking or affirming.

MBB355

Two quick questions:

  1. Since the coat already has a large-scale, high-contrast herringbone pattern, is there any concern that adding the Donegal flecks makes the coat too much of a statement? Strikes me as unnecessary at first blush. I know these coats are all about the Donegal yarn, but the flecks seem more appealing to me against a more conservative, somber, low-contrast backdrop, like the prior charcoal and dark brown versions.
  2. Where are the cream socks in these photos from? They look great with the light jeans and cordovan loafers. Having trouble finding a pair myself.
Alexander

Dear Simon! Are your color 8 Aldens a D width? My aberdeen last (same full strap model) looks chunkier with E width. Thanks

Troy

Hi Simon, are you able to speak to import tax/duties for Canadian buyers—is the purchase price inclusive of such fees, or no? Thanks!

Matthew W

Hi Troy, as a Canadian buyer myself hopefully I can help answer.

I have purchased a few shirts and watch caps from PS and in my experience the import tax/duties included a fixed DHL charge (~$18 CAD) and %13 tax on the Canadian value of the item(s). I have been charged import tax on every order so I don’t think there is a threshold in Canada.

For me anyway, the total cost in $CAD (including exchange rate, shipping and import duty) is usually about double the listed price on the PS website. So definitely expensive, but the fit and the quality is fantastic and there is nowhere else in Canada I have found similar products.

Matthew Washer

Good point Simon. I simply wanted to illustrate what Ivan can expect as a final price, so there is no sticker shock with duties. (The exchange rate is what really bumps the price for Canadians).

The more important question, to me, is value, and this is where I can easily justify paying the price for PS products. I am eagerly awaiting delivery of my Donegal coat, and about 75% of my clothing budget for the next two years has already been allocated to PS items.

Keep it up Simon, I really appreciate both your writing and your clothing collaborations!

Jay Weir

Hi Simon-
Ordered mine and I wanted to say thank you for the coat- design, material, everything. It’s perfect. I shall be looking forward to wearing it as many times as I can.

Jay W

Ade

Simon,

Beautiful coat, but unfortunately already sold out. Any chance of a restock in size 54 or 52?

Will this coat also be available directly from PWVC?

Best,
Ade

Bilal

Hello Simon! Just noticed that Private White has added the coat to their website for pre-order. I am already on the PS waiting list. Is there a risk that the second run won’t be enough to fulfil the waiting list? If yes, do you recommend pre-ordering through Private White or taking the risk and staying on the waiting list?

Johannes P

It could be a good idea to compare prices and then decide if pre-ordering through Private White or staying on the waiting list, at least if you’re ordering from outside the UK. For me (ordering from Sweden) it seems that the coat will be quite a bit cheaper when ordering from Private White directly since they charge me in local currency and according to their info there shall be no additional import duties or VAT added.

SGM

Wonderful piece Simon, bought mine as quickly as I could. Any idea when I might expect delivery — understand shipping was schedule w/c 1 November?

SGM

Perfect, looking forward to it!

I’m also having a raglan coat made with Saman Amel and wondered what your thoughts on their collar was? I’ve asked for an extra cm on mine but wonder if it should be any longer (I’ve added quite a bit of length on their standard model, too).

SGM

Thanks Simon, your SA coat served as the inspiration for my commission! I even chose the same cloth family (pecora nera), although I went for a pre-brown/cream herringbone seeing as I’ll have the grey/cream Donegal! I’ll let you know how it goes with SA, expecting big things.

Lewis

Wonderful piece Simon, I had a Crombie Balmacaan with a very similar herringbone pattern which I sold to fund the V2 coat. At 4degC in London right now, it’s the first wear of the season today!
Also worth noting – my tailor managed to lengthen the V2 by 4cm which has made a very pleasing aesthetic difference.

Paul

My Donegal arrived this morning – it’s a lovely thing. The fabric is superb, and seems softer, more pliable than last year’s version in the dark brown. Thick, warm, but relaxed; the additional flecks of colour add texture from a distance, and are quite subtle even close up – but add that warmth and softness to the strong pattern.
It feels beautifully made, too; something I didn’t notice initially, then it suddenly registered – and this may seem obvious: great care has clearly been taken when cutting, so that the pattern on the angled edge of the pockets aligns perfectly against the pattern on the body of the coat. Just really nicely done.
I think this one is going to see a lot of use this winter… once again, PS and PWVC have made a thing of beauty!

Benjamin

Pleased to report that I just received my coat and am delighted with it. I’m really grateful to Simon for all the design features that have been incorporated – the collar stands up perfectly and the cashmere pockets are just right for plunging hands into. This is definitely my favourite of the PS items I have.
I did visit the pop-up shop yesterday but Simon wasn’t there – however the thing that immediately struck me about the coat when first seeing it in person there are the flecks of different colour that do not come across at all on the photos.
Now I have tried it on, the cut and fit is perfect for me (size 4, 40″ chest) and even the length is perfect although I am not as tall as Simon.
I look forward to wearing this a lot and it definitely works with jeans as well as tailoring.
The material is lovely and has a great heavy drape. Although I do like the blue PS trench coat I have, I find that the placket (if that’s the right word) on the edge does not hang straight and unfolds. No such problem with the Donegal coat.
Even my wife liked it although her first question was, ‘Where’s the belt?’

Benjamin

Absolutely, it was a pleasure to meet Lucas and I came away with one of the watch caps.
Of course, that’s what I said to my wife!

Mike Jones

Hello Simon,
Can the arms be shortened on this coat? If so, I’m presuming it would have to be done from the cuffs rather than the shoulder (looking at the shoulder construction)…

GJLegend

I’m curious, why did you opt for hidden front buttons? Does that lend itself to a cleaner, more formal look? Given the casual elements and how nice the horn buttons are, you’d want them visible when the coat is buttoned. Plus it seems to add a tiny bit of contrast and visual element to the front that breaks up all of the herringbone.

Stewart Roxburgh

Really enjoyed the article. Having seen the process many times in Scottish mills, I always appreciate pieces that feature that actual craftsmanship that goes into the processes. I loved the Herringbone as I had one very similar back in the 80’s. I’ve always wondered why Donegal couldn’t utilise a ‘visual device’ on their coats as a clear indicator of its prestigious origin. One single green cuff or collar button maybe?

Spencer

Looks fantastic. Sadly I’ve missed the first run. I have a trench coat, peacoat, bomber but not proper overcoat. Anyone got any general recommendations on good brands for overcoats at similar price point (ie < £1000)? Including things a bit more formal, double-breasted etc. Just generally, where would you go to get a decent overcoat?

Jason

I missed the first round of releases. Just jumped on the waiting list yesterday for a size 4. What are my chances of still getting one? I just noticed PWVC opened their order. I would rather get one directly from you guys though if possible. Two weeks still the timeline?

CT

My coat arrived this morning (swift transit from UK->US). I’m thrilled by it. As others have said the flecks in the weave are really excellent and don’t show up at all in the pictures; they add tremendous character to an already excellent coat. The collar is just excellent… why every coatmaker doesn’t add an insert I don’t know. Much like the PS chambray shirt I recently bought this coat just brings a smile to my face – it’s the right color, material, texture, cut… And I must say this is really fairly priced for the evident quality.
The only flaw I can come up with: At 5’9″ and a US size ~40, my first task is to get the coat in size 4 to my tailor, and I expect to take advantage of the full four inches of “buffer” in the length and the ~1 inch in the sleeve. For anyone concerned about sizing, as I was, the 4 ended up being excellent for me in all other respects.
Thanks Simon – great choice – I’m really enjoying the quality and curation of your shop.

Jack

Hi Simon,

  • Thanks again. Looking forward to getting this one too. Didn’t get the first donegal coat version or the valstarino, hope they come back. Will they?
Annalisa

Hello,
I’ve been trying to return one of these coats but was unable to do it online.
I’ve emailed the support email address twice but no response. How do I return the coat please?

Annalisa

I have emailed [email protected] last Thu, Fri and again today but no response. Always using the same email address…

Chris

This happened to me too…

Vin

Hi Simon,

I had two questions on the new coat:

1. Why you did not opt for a DB version given your preference for DB on coats.

2. Why some of the detailing in the back such as martingale belt, pleats etc were not incorporated into the coat (similar to your Ulster coat).

Thanks.

Vin

Thanks Simon.

Would you view the herringbone Donegal as more versatile in terms of being able to be worn with tailoring and casual clothes (e.g. jeans and knit) versus say your Ulster coat?

Put another way. If you only had one overcoat to cover all your needs, which one would you choose?

Vin

Hi Simon.
I noticed the The Anthology x Permanent Style Polo Coat – Herringbone Donegal Tweed was recently released.
I had a few questions, if I may:

  1. How does the Anthology collaboration compare to this Donegal coat?
  2. Given the Anthology version is a DB design, has additional detail on the back (belt, pleats) etc., is it designed for a different purpose?
  3. I noticed the price difference between the two coats. Is this related to the additional handwork that went into the Anthology coat or is something else driving the difference?
  4. What is the fabric weight of version 3 of the Donegal coat?

Thanks,
Vin

Vin

Thanks Simon

Charles Mackenzie

Just as an FYI to any PS staff/Simon I was on the waiting list for this and have just found the missed notification in my spam. Strangely I received the original email to inform me that I was on the waiting list no problem and the all important notification went straight into spam. Possibly one to look into to aid others in the future.

Benjamin

Was very pleased to wear the Donegal yesterday for the first time properly with a suit in the City. One question, I wasn’t able to keep the collar up when the cost was open, only when buttoned and it was too warm to wear buttoned. Any ideas on how to keep the collar up when open? Thanks.

Benjamin

Good tip, thanks Simon, I will try that.

Chris K

Sorry to intrude Simon, however i think it’s worth mentioning as I noticed this when my coat first arrived. It seems to actually be the lapel itself that pulls the collar down when it’s been packed, folded with an open collar. Hanging it with the top 2 buttons closed for a while, problem solved, collar sit’s perfectly. Another point while I’m at it, the throat latch was buttoned upside down when it first arrived (opposite way to your images). These two things combined cement the collar into perfect position, like yours is.

Ck

Benjamin

Thanks, my throat latch was upside down too so I’ve changed that and buttoned it up. The top material at the front of the collar is a bit rumpled as a result but hopefully at least it will stay standing up.

Josh

Very astute, Chris; mine was also upside down and flipping it made a big difference. Thanks for sharing the discovery!

Ben

This might be controversial but are you sure Simon is not the one rocking the throat latch upside down in the photo? If you’d flip it “upside down” (as it was delivered) it would not only point downwards when buttoned up like throat latches usually do, but it’d also match the pattern on the collar. They did take great care in matching the pattern elsewhere so it’d make sense. But I’ll admit I don’t know everything there is to know about throat latches. 🙂

Ben

Having said that I do just now realise that if you wear it like Simon when not in use, you just have to unbutton one button and rotate it 180 degrees to button it up correctly across the front when you do use it, which is probably the right way to do it.

I’m confusing myself here haha.

Chris K

Good point about the pattern Ben, didn’t realise that, and I can’t even verify it because my coat is off for a little length alteration, I’ll take your word for it though. It’s that 180 degrees rotation though that means the throat latch shape (soft V shape) actually covers the gap between the bottom of the collar and the middle, stopping the draught getting in. I recall Simon mentioning something about this in one of the previous iteration articles I think.

Ben

Yeah that makes total sense Chris. My coat should arrive today so I’ll have a hands on look later tonight.

Ben

I’ve just received my coat so just to make a long thread longer I just want to confirm that my coat was delivered with the throat latch attached in the same way as you can see in Simon’s photos above. The pattern all line up with the pattern on the collar. Unbutton the read facing button and rotate the latch 180 and it’d cover the throat like it should. Perfect!

Chris K

Nice Ben. Just to add a little to that excess length, I reckon mine could well have been a one off with the latch upside down. Apologies for taking this one a little far Simon. Tis your fault at the end of the day for making such an epic coat.

Benjamin

Mine was upside down too, seems to be improving now when buttoned with the collar up while on the hanger. Thanks.

Chris K

Cheers josh! Pleasure to be able to come here and discuss.

Josh

Just wanted to throw in my verdict of complete satisfaction with this coat, along with the others here in the comments. It’s really everything you promised it to be: incredibly versatile, especially in a small, early-stage wardrobe; immensely flattering; reassuringly robust; and subtly unique thanks to all the little details that make PS products the best-in-class (the collar, the pocket lining, the fabric, and so on). It’s so satisfying to realise, within minutes of trying a garment like this, that it’s a justified and lifelong investment. Also, may I additionally thank you for the inclusion of excess fabric in sleeve and body length; though both are surprisingly close to what I need unaltered, modest extensions will help make the coat truly my own. Cheers!

Dave

Even though you look dashing in these photos, I think they vastly undersell the fabric.

Its quiet charisma draws and delights the eye. It glows with almost a sense of greater reality than other objects. The black and white are warm and soft, the colored flecks as subtle as spots in sandstone.

A friend of mine comes from a family that’s been making hand-woven blankets for generations. Those plain but beautiful blankets are the only point of reference I have for this coat. Looking at it feels like stepping out of an IKEA into the studio of a master violin maker.

Jiminy.

I do wonder if the drapey cut works for me, or if it just comes off as baggy. I find myself wishing for a way to cinch it at the back or wrap it closely around myself. This surprised me as it’s a size 4 and I’m certainly a bit farther to wrap a tape around than Simon. Perhaps just takes getting used to, and I might have the sleeves taken up slightly.

On mine, the side with the throat latch is curved and stands up, while the other side is straight as if pressed and doesn’t stand up well. I’m hoping this eases up, otherwise the highly asymmetrical collar will be a problem.

ddayo

Hello Simon

Great looking coat. It’s exactly what I’m after this season.

I live in South Korea and I will order this nice and elegant coat.
So I have to choose carefully

Sizing question though: I wear a 38R typically, though may be more closely a 39.

40 tends to seem a bit large unless the fit is slim.

My favorite Drake’s raglan coats have the same chest measurements as the size 5/large in this coat, so I am guessing a 4/Medium might be too constricting over tailoring for me and a 5/Large would be best?

I’m 5ft 8inch, I’m smaller than you. i wear size 38 of Drake’s raglan coat.

ddayo

Wow, I really didn’t know you would give me advice.
Thank you so much for helping me. It’s an honor.
I always admire you and support you.

Johannes P

Just received my Donegal Overcoat and it’s just really wonderful. The only alteration I’ll have to do is shortening the sleeve as it is quite long, I even think I might have to move the wrist strap since the sleeve is probably more than 3cm too long.

So a question for you on this; what do you think is the correct length of the sleeve? I’ve tried to find images of you in the Overcoat with your arms hanging straight at your sides but I can only find photos where you either have your hands in the pockets or in front of you or adjusting the collar or similar. Would be really nice to see some examples of what you think is the correct sleeve length in this coat.

Johannes P

Thanks for your input, makes perfect sense. And asking for the ‘correct’ length was probably bad wording on my part, I was more after your opinion on sleeve length on this kind of raglan coat.
I’ve spent some time looking at images as well and will definitely go for what you refer to as the “traditional length”, letting the sleeve drop down close to the MCP joint of the thumb (second joint) which would mean that it more or less will end at the middle of the back of my hand.

Il Pennacchio

What I did was to wear a tailored jacket under the coat and shorten the coat sleeves until it was slightly longer than the jacket sleeves.

Jonathan Baker

Hi, Simon.
Really like the Donegal coats.
I’m looking for one in brown and oatmeal rather than black and white, with the same 3×3 twill and larger herringbone pattern, but am struggling to find a fabric. Have you come across one like that?
Also, I agree with you that a ‘Level C’ Savile Row tailor may be overkill for something that, while it needs to be beautifully made, has raglan sleeves and a more casual fit. Are there one or two tailors you would recommend?
Thanks for any thoughts …
Best,
Jonathan

Chris K

Hi Simon. The new polo coat you’ve done with the anthology is beautiful, of course my question is, knowing your logical approach to these things, the effect of the dark brown weave on the polo vs. the black on the raglan. Would love to hear how you approached this (article maybe coming so might be premature here, apologies for that). For what it’s worth, I particularly like the slight starkness the black adds on the raglan, versus the ever so slightly softened effect the dark brown has on the polo.

Chris K

Thanks Simon,

Nice, very nice touch, makes total sense on the polo. If we take the raglan for a second then, when you first mentioned a grey iteration this year, I think some might have thought mid grey flannels were out the window. However, thanks in part to the more pronounced herringbone, that subtle exaggeration between the cream and black, could they still work? For instance, brown boots/loafers, grey flannels, navy knitwear, raglan?

Pete

Hi Simon,

I’m somewhat new to your website and love the work you’ve done. Just curious if you may know or if any US based readers can chime in. There seems to be a price difference when I’m at checkout on the PS website vs. Private White’s. Does the price I’m seeing on the PS website include duties and sales taxes?

I put myself on the waitlist for a medium. I don’t want to miss out on this batch, which is why I went over to the PWVC website; however, the difference (~$500 USD) makes me think perhaps I should wait and see if I luck out with a medium coming back from the waiting list.

Alas, the wonderful anxieties of being a first time buyer of beautiful overseas products when you’re not 100% sure your size. Thank you!

Pete

Thanks for the reply Simon. It looks like I waited too long and missed out on my size on the PWVC website as well. Do you plan on doing another run of this coat or something similar in the future? Or perhaps expect to get a few back for the waiting list? Thanks again.

Pete

Excellent, thank you. If you get back a medium looking for a new home, I’ll be patiently camping out on the waiting list!

Nicholas

Dear Simon,
Just wondering if there will be a restock for the smaller sizes in a forthcoming future ?
Also, as my budget is limited, was curious to understand the large price difference between here (£795) and Private White VC’s website (£950!)
Hope you can help! As the item would need to be shipped to Europe, taxes may apply and I’m concerned. Thanks in advance for your answers!
Kind regards and congrats for this beautiful product

Hi

I wear a 40long suit jacket
how does this translate to the sizes in the chart

Stephen Gordon

I just received the herringbone Donegal Coat today here in New Jersey. It is an absolutely beautiful execution. The fabric is top drawer. In addition, the coat is not as heavy as I thought it might be. In fact it is quite light. I am 5′ 9.5″ tall and took a size small. The shoulders and sleeve length are perfect. The length may be a tad too long as it seems to be 2.5 to 3 inches below the knee. In your images it seems to stop at your knee. Do you think I oaught shorten the coat? It does not look too inappropriately long in a full length mirror. Simon, can you offer an opinion?

ScottsTots

I’m traveling international to Barcelona for the winter holiday and am aware the weather is relatively pleasant during the day in the sun, but temps tend to dip into the 50s or mid 40s F in the evening, thus being a good idea to layer. Will this coat be a good travel companion for this trip or will it generally run too warm for this climate and be a bit bulky to tour the city in (e.g., if I have to carry it during the day at times), or should I opt for a lighter coat (both in terms of weight and thickness)? Just trying to get a decent sense of the temp range for this coat (understanding people are different in running hot or cold and layering plays a factor). Thx folks!

Johnson Rub

Hey there Simon – beautiful fabric choice!
Is it possible to take this to a tailor to remake the lapel from the ‘goat ears’ shape (not sure of the technical name) into a more conventional notch lapel please?
Many thanks,
Johnson Rub

Johnson Rub

Apologies Simon, to be more clear, can a tailor remove the ‘goats ears’ lapel from the RTW coat in order to convert it to a more classic lapel please?

Many thanks

Johnson

Michael

Hi Simon,

I received my coat and love it.
For men wondering about sizing, I took my usual size; it is cut generously so there is room to wear a heavy sweater or jacket under it. No need to upsize.
I did see some comments about the weight. It is exactly the heaviness I was looking for. It is easy to find lighter tweed coats. I live in the middle of Canada so I wanted something warm. I should be able to wear this coat up to about minus 25 degrees Celcius.
Thanks for the great garment!
M