Introducing: The Herringbone Donegal Overcoat
This feels like it’s been a long time coming. Probably because I just got excited about this material a good year ago, and started talking to people about it soon after.
The wait is also not over quite yet, though. Due to delays everyone is suffering at the moment - petrol, people, pingdemics - the new Donegal coat will be shipping in about two weeks’ time. The cloth only arrived a week ago.
But expectations have been so high for this particular collaboration, and we’ve had so many questions about it, that seemed best to put it on sale now. At the very least, it means readers can effectively pre-order theirs, and so stop worrying that they might miss out.
If you would like the new grey-herringbone iteration of our now most popular-ever product, the PS Donegal Coat, you can buy yours on the PS Shop here. It will be shipped out to you in about two weeks, and you will get regular updates during that time confirming the schedule.
So why was I so excited about this version of the Donegal?
I think it was mainly that I see it as potentially the most useful we’ve ever done.
I know I talk about versatility a lot, but when you’re spending several hundred pounds on something, I feel it should have broad application. Particularly for younger readers that don’t have a full wardrobe already.
And grey herringbone has always been a cloth I’ve recommended, both for jackets and coats. My Anthology tweed jacket has been shown on PS with everything from beat-up jeans to a shirt and tie on stage in New York. It is the only colour and pattern that I’ve found can bridge that extent of casual and formal.
And it’s no less useful as a coat. Something like a camel polo coat can bridge casual to formal too, but it’s still a more unusual and striking option in either scenario. Grey herringbone is both subtler and easier.
The issue I have with most grey herringbone coat materials is that the pattern is too small. It’s almost more texture than pattern.
That’s fine if you want to tip towards the smarter end of the spectrum, in a tailored, double-breasted overcoat for example. But it can be a bit smart for a raglan coat, and makes them too uniformly grey for jeans or workwear chinos.
The first two iterations of the PS Donegal Coat (here and here) used a fairly small herringbone too, but that was because it was meant to be texture - something added to a charcoal and dark-brown coat respectively, alongside the Donegal flecks, to add surface interest.
With this version, the pattern was important - to make it a herringbone coat, rather than just a grey one. To make it the first thing you noticed.
As we all know from talking about suits, casual things often have more pattern, and this is no less true here.
It is that stronger pattern that makes a weekend coat as much as a business one - and of course means it suits a wide swathe of people that is now dressing more casually, but still wants to be well put-together.
In pursuing this perfect pattern, the first thing I tried was to increase the contrast in the colours of the herringbone. Where version one was charcoal and black, and version two brown and black, I tried two options with version three: grey and black (as most mainstream coats are) and cream and black.
The latter was much better, but it still lacked something. The pattern was a bit too small. I didn’t want anything as dramatic as my Connolly coat, but it still felt too much like texture.
So having talked to the weavers, we switched from a 2x2 to a 3x3 twill. This basically means the twill is bigger, so each herringbone line is wider, and the pattern becomes bigger too.
I loved the final result. It seemed like the perfect balance between a smart, elegant chic-casual overcoat and a sportier, relaxed, Ivy-style coat.
I’ve shown those two looks in these images, with the smart version above - sharp trousers and a nice knit - and the casual one below - jeans and a T-shirt.
I deliberately kept the colour schemes similar in these outfits, in order to focus on the contrast in formality.
So even though the smart outfit doesn’t involve a jacket, the cream-corduroy trousers and navy knitwear look much more dressed-up. There’s also a crisp, stark white shirt above, and dark-suede shows below.
The casual outfit uses white too, but a heavyweight T-shirt instead of a shirt; there’s navy, but a chunky shawl-collar cardigan; and then of course mid-blue jeans, which makes anything and everything more casual.
The coat - strong of pattern but subtle of colour - goes with both beautifully.
The other lovely thing about grey herringbone, I’ve found over the years, is the way it works with bright colours.
We know from tailoring discussions that mid-grey is often good in this regard, but the casual herringbone pattern helps too.
It’s one reason my grey-herringbone jacket is the one pictured with a pink-oxford shirt in that article, and a yellow oxford in this one.
With this larger-scaled coat, I’ve shown how it supports strong colour with a large saffron-yellow scarf in the photo below, and in other shots around this piece with the bright-red PS watch cap.
A raglan, balmacaan-style coat is the best partner for long scarves or shawls by the way. Its long fronts mean the scarves hang easily, naturally, despite being so oversized. Much better than with a double-breasted tailored coat - where it’s too big to go underneath, and can seem a little forced when draped over the top.
All this so far has presumed that you, the reader, are familiar with the PS Donegal that I’ve enjoyed designing and offering the past three years.
If you’re not, here’s an efficient summary.
The PS Donegal Coat was born out of a need for a versatile coat that could be worn with jeans for a walk, or tailoring to the office. Something that could be thrown on, almost without thought, and yet be rigorously designed that it always flattered the wearer.
To that end, it is a little longer than most (but can be shortened if required) to add a touch of flair, and that’s balanced by a slightly higher collar that effectively frames the face. That collar stays up when put up, due to curved insert on the neck. And the standard throat latch is reshaped to sit more elegantly when not in use.
It has both two internal breast pockets, and a large hip pocket (iPad sized) in which to keep a hat, book or anything else bulky. The outer hip pockets are lined with cashmere.
It has a distinctive yet subtle lining in antique gold; and the buttons are matte two-hole buffalo horn - a style more commonly seen on Savile Row, and reflecting my love of bespoke tailoring.
Just as important as the style, though, in fact probably more so, is the Donegal wool.
Donegal tweed is so pleasing and unique in its texture. There’s slubbiness in there, an authentic and natural look, plus great colour variation when you look carefully, but compared to other traditional cloths it never feels old-fashioned - unlike a big windowpane check for example.
The tweed is spun especially by Donegal Yarns in Ireland, the last remaining mill that makes the yarn - before being woven in Lancashire and then manufactured by Private White VC in Manchester.
For full details on the design and details of the Donegal Coat, have a read of the original launch article here.
Ordering
- The Donegal Overcoat costs £792 plus VAT.
- At the moment it is exclusively available through Permanent Style, on the webshop here.
- There are sizes from XS (chest 46, Private White size 2) up to XXL.
- Have a close look at the measurements below if you're unsure of sizing, and if in doubt compare them to a coat you already own.
- However, the coat fit is pretty standard, so taking your normal size is usually safe.
- I am six foot tall and usually wear a size 50-chest jacket. I am wearing a Medium.
- As with all PS products, there are free returns should you want to change sizes. Ships from the UK.
Measurements:
X-Small/2 | Small/3 | Medium/4 | Large/5 | X-Large/6 | XX-Large/7 | |
Chest | 50.5cm | 53 | 56.5 | 60 | 63.5 | 67 |
Waist | 52 | 54.5 | 58 | 61.5 | 65 | 68.5 |
Bottom hem | 58.5 | 61 | 64.5 | 68 | 71.5 | 75 |
Length | 108.4 | 109 | 110 | 111 | 112 | 113 |
Sleeve | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 |
Cuff (width) | 13.8 | 14.1 | 14.5 | 14.9 | 15.3 | 15.7 |
Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man
Will the coat be available at PWVC website as well or could it sell out at PS shop beforehand?
It will be at a later date, yes. It could sell out before then though, I don’t know whether it will.
We should also have a second small batch later in the year
Simon please consider making the small patch a bit larger, considering how fast small and medium sizes sold out there must be a lot of people who want one but are out of luck.
Hi Mait,
I’m afraid it’s not under our control – we had to order cloth for this months ago, so that’s fixed
Simon – given the seemingly high levels of interest in all versions of this coat, might it be possible (dependent on PWVC, obviously) to have it available on an MTO basis, possibly in a small selection of cloths? If not workable on an individual basis, maybe a system where with X number of deposits in a waiting list, once that number is reached the next batch goes ahead?
Hi Alex,
We have looked at that – the problem is more the cloth ordering than the production at Private White. There are minimums and long lead-times for ordering the yarn from Donegal, and then for weaving the cloth in England. The actual making is pretty short and flexible by comparison.
For this coat, for example, we placed the order for the yarn and then cloth in March. So a GMTO format would only work if people were prepared to order their winter coat that far ahead.
Do you think that sounds too far? Just from your point of view perhaps.
Hi Simon and Alex.
Sorry to intercede, but I just wanted to give my viewpoint in relation to ordering ahead.
Speaking personally, I would be ok with ordering this far ahead for this coat and indeed any other product as:
1. When buying this kind of product I am ok to wait as they are all long term “keepers” so planning ahead by a few months makes no difference to me.
2. It would actually assist with budgeting and planning ahead.
Just my 2 pennies worth.
P.s Simon – absolutely love this (already have the last iteration in brown). But might have to get a size 2 in the next small batch you do before the year end, depending on when the PS Indulgent cardigan is released. I have the blue and ecru cardigans already so it depends on the new colour but I do want that and this coat. Might not be able to do both all at once. ?
Many thanks.
Yash
Hey Yash,
Thank you, that is helpful. Perhaps we’ll see if it’s possible next year.
If anyone else feels the same, or has any other comments on that approach, please let me know.
The shawl cardigan looks like it’s going to be delayed at the factory I’m afraid. We’re looking at the end of the year at the earliest. It’s very frustrating, but everyone is experiencing big delays this season, largely through Covid labour shortages, which put extra time on everything from the yarn to the cloth to the product.
S
Hi Simon,
Many thanks for the update on the cardigan. Same principle applies – no rush. ?
The delay is understandable and I think that these supply problems are being faced by all sorts of businesses across the breadth of industry.
Thanks.
Yash
Hi Simon,
This is something that I would be interested in aswell i.e. this approach would also suit me. Mind, I am taking a much slower and considered approach to buying clothes and rebuilding my wardrobe. A ‘slowear’ approach, if you like.
Actually, when this came out in October, I thought the coat was beautiful and could fill a need for me, but didn’t want to act on it too hastily – something that’s gotten me in trouble in the past!
I was a bit taken aback with how quickly it sold out in my size and was kicking myself that I didn’t order it to try it.
As it happens, later in the evening on the day of the Sale Shop, I checked on Private White and saw that a Medium was showing in stock. I guess it must have been a return and I eventually managed to pick it up yesterday.
MTM option would possibly be more of an interest to me as this is the area I have most difficulty with – I’m sort of between sizes. I realise the Donegal can be altered, so that might be sufficient and am going to take a closer look and hopefully it’ll work for me.
Hope that is helpful.
Con
It is, thank you Con. And really pleased you managed to pick one up
So, having tried on with a jacket and also a chunky cardigan, it’s a tad too tight around the chest for my liking. I’ve remeasured my chest and am more like 106cm, a little bigger compared to last time I measured.
Trying to decide between altering or going up a size for the extra roominess around the chest area but am also cognizant of Large sizes generally being to big for my shoulders and height – I’m 5’9″.
In the article for last years release, you mention the possibility of letting out the body by upto 4cm. Is this possible with this years version?
Thanks.
Yes, that should be the same Con. Although bear in mind that only works from the armpit downwards, so not the top of the chest
Personally no, that wouldn’t be too far ahead. I’d guess it comes down to how well one has the basics covered; my wardrobe is now at the point where I’m more selective than ever and feel I have to plan carefully to make sure I’m not wasting money or hanging rail space by either duplicating or buying something which while lovely I just end up not wearing. I’d hazard a guess that a decent percentage of the PS readership put a fair amount of time and planning into making considered purchases which could make a GMTO scheme work, but I’m sure you will be the best judge of that!
Thanks Alex, that’s very helpful to know. As commented above, perhaps we will try it next year then. I’ll look at the minimums.
I think it could work – people wait 5-6 months for MTO shoes…. One possibility could be offering GMTO on more generic cloths with faster lead times and “special” cloths saved for annual PS releases.
Good point Adam
I, for one, wouldn’t mind this level of lead time. I think for people acquainted with bespoke, ordering (several) seasons ahead is not too much of a turn-off.
OK great, thanks Fletcher, good to know
And another happy shopper here willing to wait x months for an item.
I’m sure you’ve looked at this already, but would pre-ordering help you in terms of having committed/cleared funds for you to confidently order cloth/manufacturing slots in advance? (Perhaps only for the more expensive items like outerwear)
There is still a bit of a bun fight when it comes to items being released to the waiting-list – as an example, items in the most popular sizes can sell out so quickly that if you don’t get to the email within a day, you’ll have sold out.
Totally appreciate e-commerce was never the primary aim of the website, but I dare say you’d find a lot of people willing to pay and wait, if they were guaranteed to get the item.
Thanks Ant, and yes it would help with ordering cloth to have that certainty, plus it would mean readers could guarantee the size they wanted as well
It’s an approach that seems to be used very effectively by Paynter jacket. it may be worth looking at what they do and/or speaking to them.
Thank you
I’ll add to the support on the idea of ordering ahead with those lead times. It would be fantastic if all three cloth iterations were available.
I waited forever to get your trench. I’ve got to say it was worth the wait. One thought is to see how the liner could be made a tad warmer, but that is minor….
A big advantage is budgeting for these. I had to decide between the Donegal or the Trench, and when I got the Trench I just thought, “screw it! I’ll sell one of the kids…” Couldn’t believe it went so fast.
One question on sizing, if I can on your Bridge coat M compared to the Trench size M. If the Trench is just snug around the chest (liner and Harris Tweed jacket under) would you recommend sizing up to L for the Bridge coat? From the shop recommendation of a snug fit, I would imagine so but not sure how consistent the sizing from the Trench would be. Is the sizing of the Donegal and Trench pretty much the same?
Sorry, you’ve probably answered this a million times already…
Thanks, good to note on the forward ordering. And I can see how it would help with budgeting.
On the trench, you can make something warmer some time if you want, even like the fur one I had. The maker can just copy the existing liner exactly
No problem on the sizing. I’d say that on average, yes, if in doubt size up on the bridge coat. However, comparing the measurements is often very helpful, because people do vary in how they like to wear them.
Hi Simon. It looks very nice. Would you say it was ok for warmer weather, given the last several months we had might be the norm for future years? I’d hate to get it and it only be bearable to wear 3 months of the year.
Also I see the sleeve length looks quite long, where is that measured from?
I’d say with current UK weather, it would be wearable four months of the year, maybe five. I’ve been wearing mine recently. But it’s not a warm-weather coat.
The measurement is from the point where the seam along the top of the sleeve meets the collar, to the end of the cuff. With a raglan sleeve there isn’t really a shoulder point to measure from.
Do you think you could switch to (or additionally include) a measurement from the centre point of the collar along the shoulder and down the sleeve to the cuff? This is a relatively common measurement online these days (and the standard for RTW shirts) and it’s SO much more useful because it is then completely independent of the shoulder style or seam width.
Good point Josh, yes. I’ll double check on that
Simon
Going into the shop – the everyday denim cloth now doesn’t even show up as sold out, just non existent! Are you only doing lighter everyday now?
And when will there be some more denim cloth! My chambray shirt is my favourite cloth for bridging smart and informal and think a denim is next step
Thanks
G
Hey,
Yes we’re going to be discontinuing the everyday denim, as the lighter version has proved so much more popular.
The lighter denim cloth will be restocked in a month or two, we’re just reordering now. Always best to get on the waiting list by using the form on the page, to get any updates.
That’s a shame. I was really hoping to get a length or two.
Looks really great. When I was looking for a balmacaan I initially wanted one in a large grey herringbone exactly like this, although went for the dark brown one of last year. If I hadn’t got that I’d certainly be buying this. I almost want it as well as I’d be more likely to wear it to court.
I will say one thing I’ve found is that – and maybe it’s because I didn’t have the sleeves adjusted – but the lining was a bit baggy near the cuffs (particularly on the left), which I found made it a pain to wear with tailored jackets.
Hey Aaron,
Thanks a lot, useful feedback. I haven’t seen that myself but I’ll check a few more to make sure.
Cheers
Hi Simon,
I did get the first, charcoal iteration of this coat. Put I am now considering to replace it with this version.
One of the reasons that make me wonder is the first version’s thickness. I believe you mentioned somewhere that this grey version would wear warmer. Can you confirm this?
Thanks,
Ludwig
Yes it will Ludwig – it’s heavier. That original was 620g, this one is 760g
Ahh Simon,
There isn’t much I can say about this one that you haven’t covered at length, absolutely wicked. I placed my order as soon as the email came through the other day, no hesitation required. The way you can push and pull this overcoat into different outfits and settings says it all, as you’ve clearly demonstrated here. I think you already know how well this one’s going to go down.
Despite already knowing how easily it can dress up when required, I particularly love your heavyweight tee/shawl/denim/cordovan outfit. This is the type of outfit that appears so straight forward, yet so effective, and looks so fresh, and relevant. It would cover my dress requirements most days of the week. If more people dressed even close to this, we’d all look more epic.
Quick question, I know your overcoat/outerwear wardrobe is extensive, you always have options, for every occasion, however say for younger readers with a more compact, capsule wardrobe, where their Donegal might be seeing more wear as a primary coat, would you rest a coat like this for a day between wears, similar to knitwear other wool etc. for the sake of longevity? I’ve done this instinctively with previous overcoats I’ve owned, however would love to get your take.
Great work Simon,
Ck
Hey Chris,
Thanks a lot, I do think this iteration works particularly nicely with more casual things like that T-shirt and shawl cardigan.
I don’t think there’s any need to rest the coat, unless it’s got soaking through in the rain, for example. It will obviously last longer (though it will still last a long time) if you rotate it with other things, but otherwise I wouldn’t worry about it.
Always hang it up after wearing though, on a hanger rather than a peg ideally, and if it looks tired at all or has been wet, give it a brush down with a clothes brush. In the long term, a quick steam will do wonders too
Simon, I’ve just received my coat back after having a couple of small alterations. This raglan is best in class. The proportions are second to none. I haven’t seen or tried on another raglan sleeve coat this good, let alone a Donegal one. That judgement isn’t based on thin air either. About 6 years ago, before I knew PS existed, I purchased a raglan overcoat from a well known street wear brand (actually in a loro Piana alpaca blend believe it or not). Anyway, I still wear that coat to this day, but it has it’s shortcomings, principle of which, it never stays nice and tight up around the neck, I’m always having to pull it forward at the lapels to stop it sloping on my shoulders. You’ve solved this. I cannot state enough how well the PS raglan sits compared to others, it just stays and hangs where it should, collar nice and high around the neck, very flattering on the shoulder line. No sloping off the shoulders. No pulling at the lapels required, even after a long session of tennis ball throwing with the dog. Perfect.
You have delivered a very special cloth this year, with so much depth. On a bright day, the bolder herringbone becomes a bit more visible. On a murky winters evening, into the night, it becomes a beautiful deep gritty grey, with the Donegal flecks bringing it all together. As you’ve said, this is why it works so well with grungier, more casual textures, like raw denim, Cordovan, rough out suede – the list goes on – but equally well over a sharp pair of flannels and a nice jacket. Very few overcoats out there can, convincingly, cover that distance. The copper rivets on the back of the neck too, I always love that touch from Private White. They just add a cool and very, very subtle utilitarian edge to an otherwise elegant piece of classic menswear. Very functional, very stylish. I could go on, but I’ll leave it there. Bravo Simon, and thank you. I’m going to enjoy every second of wearing this coat over the coming decades.
Wonderful, wonderful. Thank you so much Chris
I joined the waiting list for this as soon as the sample cropped up in an unrelated article months ago, and pounced on the preorder after receiving the email. It really is the most “essential” coat design you’ve offered thus far, for all the reasons you describe, and I can’t wait to receive it. It looks so good in pictures here too ✨
Sadly I’m one of minority. Unless something has changed in sizing, I’ll have to sit this one out. I’m sure texture is as lovely as v1, but it’s too warm for me to layer up in London, and for wearing it just over knitwear, I’m swimming in 6, but 5 is too small. (6 is nice over the jacket)
But I reserve the right to change my mind once I see it in person in pop up or pwc store.
Hi Simon,
I have to say your commitment to continuous improvement is admirable. One that other designers and manufacturers (not just in the clothing business) would do well to emulate.
It’s a great looking coat.
Well done.
This looks great! Sadly, my size already sold out in a matter of hours 🙁 I have written to the support email in hopes to get one this year (would be a great Christmas present to myself).
Cheers,
Justin
Thanks Justin. We did have a couple of people take small and medium, to check which was the right size, so it’s definitely worth being on the waiting list for when one of those comes back.
Thanks, Simon! I would have one question that came to my mind after evaluating the sizing (compared the Bridge coat in size 4 and the Donegal in size 3, as most of the sizing numbers match for these two).The size difference for the cuff (15 vs 14) – I have to honest, that I cant evaluate this due to lack of understanding. The bridge coat fits very well and sleeves are spacious but definitely not baggy. Is the difference substantial from your experience of would that be something minimal?
Thanks,
Justin
It would be minimal I think, I wouldn’t worry about it. It’s also a fairly simple thing to alter at some point if you wanted to
By the way Justin, I see you asked this comment twice. Was it not clear that the first comment was awaiting moderation?
Thanks for the added feedback, Simon!
Regarding the second comment -I ususally see a noticifaction that comment is awaiting feedback but this time the commentjust dissapeared, thus I through it is some error on my side and just to be safe did write another one. My apologies for the inconvenience!
BR
Justin
Hi Simon. I just wanted to but-in here and say that there might be something wrong with the comment’s system. I can currently see comments written by other people that have the “Your comment is awaiting moderation” mark. For example, I can currently see Justin’s reply to your comment. “…Regarding the second comment -I ususally see a noticifaction that comment is awaiting feedback but this time the commentjust dissapeared…”
Hmm, OK thank you Matt. That certainly shouldn’t be happening.
And thanks on the second point
I spotted that too the other day (and it said “Your comment is awaiting moderation” rather than “This comment”), which was weird.
Thanks Sam. I think we’ve narrowed it down to an issue with caching. Hopefully should be fixed fairly soon
That large hip pocket is money. I have a bespoke overcoat and the one thing I’d change if I could is more practical internal pockets. I finally understand why women are so enthused with pockets on clothes.
It’s particularly useful on a roomy coat like this, because you can actually stuff something in there and not affect the line of the coat at all
A great coat that id like to buy but the day you anounce it is the small size sold. Do you plan to have more smalls in the next days-weeks ?
Hey Georgos,
Just so you’re aware, the reason that was sold out was that the waiting list for the coat always gets early access, and they were given this on Friday. So most of them sold before today.
If you want to get on the waiting list for this or any other product, there’s a button to do so on the product page. That’s also worth doing when a product is sold out, like the smalls here, because we do get exchanges and therefore have a new piece available.
We are hoping to get another small batch, but we don’t have confirmation on the timing on that yet.
I hope you can meet demand, remembering the complements and sheer level of enquiry you received over a similar coat you wore from Connolly.
Thanks for going ahead and opening this up to pre-orders. I really didn’t want to miss this one and it’s nice to not have to keep worrying about it.
I love this new grey version for all the reasons you mentioned. And yet, I would jump at a chance to buy that beautiful dark brown version in addition, were it offered again.
OK thanks Dave, noted
I, for one, hope for a re-issue of the charcoal version, with black herringbone and cream flecks. Mmm…..
+1 for the dark brown version! While I really like the look of this coat, the heavier dark brown version looks absolutely perfect to me. I am quite sad I missed it last year, if you ever do decide to revisit it I’ll (try to) be first in line.
Thanks Tom, well noted
Simon,
Just ordered one and I am quite excited. However, I’m just wondering, when it says that preorders are estimated to ship on 1/11, are you using the American or English convention for your dates? In other words, does the coat ship November 1 or January 11?
Week of November 1, don’t worry!
Do you think this coat could pair well with a dressy blue suit, dress shirt and tie? In other words, can this be an all around coat for occasions casual as well as for more dressed up appearances?
It will be a bit of a stretch to wear it for the smartest of suits like that. This is one of the most versatile styles and materials you can have in a coat, but even it can’t cover everything
Excuse me for being so forward as to offer my opinion when it wasn’t asked, but it depends on whether you’re going for British Traditional or American Ivy. In the US, there is a custom of wearing a trench coat with a tuxedo or dinner jacket or of wearing a Barbour over a blue blazer and grey flannel trousers. The contrast is supposed to lend a certain panache or nonchalance to the ensemble.
Question on sizing; I’ve got the PS Bridge Coat in medium/pw4, is it recommended to take the Donegal Overcoat in medium/pw4 as well? The reason for asking is that it seems to be 3.5 cm wider over the chest than the Bridge Coat according to the measurements. Is this due to the idea that the Donegal should be worn more casually and loosely? (otherwise the Donegal in pw3 seem to match the measurements of the Bridge Coat in pw4)
Yes, the Donegal is intended to be looser and drapier, so I would take the same size.
Hi, Simon! To be sure I order the right one should the size be available, I would like to ask additionally about the waist size compared between Donegal PW4 and the Bridge Coat PW4. The 3 cm difference for chest would be ok for me as well, as the Bridge coat is quite snug for me in PW4 (which for this coat is a positive as I like it that way), however, I see that the difference for waist is 8cm, which seems like a lot but might not be (sorry, I am relatively inexperienced regarding coats)? Additionally, the shoulders of the Bridge coat PW4 for me are at maximum regarding wideness (any more and they would look a bit too wide). I was thinking about PW3 for the Donegal as most of the measurements were closer to the PW4 Bridge Coat, but would you rather advise taking PW4 for the Donegal as well? And how would the shoulders compare?
Would appreciate your comment very much, thanks!
The shoulders would be fine either way, because there is that raglan shape with the donegal coat. They won’t feel too big or small.
The waist is also always going to be bigger in the donegal, because of the shape. If you look at them, it gets wider as it goes down, the bridge coat gets slimmer.
If the Bridge Coat is that snug on you, I think a 4 would be fine in the Donegal.
For completeness (and to maybe help someone else with sizing) I ended up getting the same size, pw4, as in my Bridge Coat and now that I’ve received my Donegal Overcoat I would say that it was 100% the correct decision. The Donegal Overcoat is of course roomier over the chest, but in a really good way and sizing down to get the same chest width as the Bridge Coat would definitely have made the Donegal too tight for me (the Bridge Coat is boarderline too tight in the chest). (My chest measures 101cm / 40″)
Nice work Simon, a thing of real beauty and highly wearable to boot.
Thank you
I can’t wait to receive mine! A bit nervous about sizing though. I have (and love!) the bridge coat in size 4 and ordered this coat in size 3.
Hi Richard,
would love to hear your feedback about sizing when you receive the coat, as I sadly missed out but would have the same open question.
Cheers,
Justin
I really do believe I made the right sizing choice ordering size 3. I definitely like the fit! It’s roomy enough, but still flattering. No problem wearing a sports jacket underneath, but also great with jeans and knitwear.
As for comparisons with other Private White garments I own:
As I’ve said, I have the Bridge coat in size 4. I think it’s the right size for me. If anything, the shoulders might be a tiny bit broad and the sleeves a tiny bit long. But not something that bothers me, especially not when wearing a sports jacket underneath.
I also have the Deluxe bomber in size 3. It’s a nice fit. If anything, it might be a bit snug in the chest, while the shoulder fit is fine. Obviously, I’ve never tried putting a sports jacket underneath this jacket.
Be aware that Simon in several comments have recommended to order the Donegal in the same size as the Bridge coat. I’m a bit surprised by this, also considering the advice on the product page in the PS shop («Unlike the Bridge Coat, it is not slim in fit and there should therefore be no need to size up.»). But who am I to question his advice…
Kind regards,
R.
I found, Richard, that when I tried the Donegal on readers in the pop-up, people varied in which size they preferred depending on whether they wanted a more contemporary, straighter fit, or something more roomy and traditional. Neither was wrong, if that makes sense
I received my coat today – it’s a stunning coat I’m sure I’ll use and love for years! And I’m glad to say I believe my sizing choice was the correct one.
Amazing, thanks for letting me know Richard
Hi Simon
A fantastic coat! Two unrelated questions:
1) I was on the waiting list but did not receive an email. Were only the top N people emailed in line with the stock available? (I did fortunately check the site on Friday and managed to place an order)
2) In the cream trouser outfit here, and in outfits you’ve shown in other articles, the cream trousers are worn with a white shirt with a darker knit over the top, and there’s nice dark/light contrast. The problem I have when wearing outfits like this is when it warms up and I remove the knitwear, leaving white shirt and light cream trousers or jeans. Then there’s no contrast and it looks a bit too much “all light”. Can you offer any advice here please?
Many thanks!
1) No, everyone was emailed. Could you check your spam folder, just to make sure it did’t go in there? A few people said they had this issue
2) That is always a risk. There’s no solution really, you just need to wear a different shirt if you think you’re going to take the knit off at some point. It is at least better than some outfits, where the top and bottom look great under a jacket or coat, but too much a block of one colour when that layer is removed.
Cheers Simon. I suspected that may be the case with the cream/white, you just have to plan carefully.
Apologies re the email, it was indeed in the spam folder. Not sure if there’s anything that can be done on the sending side to make the emails appear less spammy to filters. It would be a shame for people to miss out for that reason. The original email confirming addition to the waiting list went straight to my inbox just fine. Perhaps using the recipients name rather that “dear readers” would help convince the spam algorithm.
Thanks Chris. We have just put through an authorisation system on the emails which should make things easier. And if you authorise the PS sender, you won’t have anything go into spam again.
Sorry this is not related to the post but Im confused and I thought you would know the answer. I can’t seem to find any pocket squares on Drakes website…have they stopped doing them?
I don’t know I’m afraid Jason
Move on to HN White, Jason
BR
Hi Simon,
The coat looks great. I was wondering if you have any photographs of the coat buttoned up?
I’m not sure, I’ll check.
However, it is exactly the same style as the first two iterations, which are linked to in the article, if you want to see alternative photos?
hi simon, lovely coat. i’m wondering if you can enlighten me about button placement on a coat such as this? why is the top button usually (or always)? placed slightly further over than the rest of the lower buttons? this has always puzzled me and i’m fascinated to know the rationale. thanks,
I don’t think ours is, but I don’t have it with me to check. If they are on other coats, I’d imagine it is so the collar fastens a little closer, snug under the neck. But then, you could just cut the coat to do that as well
Beautiful coat, excellent fotos!
Simon,
Congratulations !
I was an early adopter of the first iteration of this and this release speaks to the wisdom of evolution rather than revolution.
Refine, refine, refine should be our mantra.
It’s the reason I drive a mini. Essentially it remains the same but it just keeps getting better because the concentration is on refinement and quality.
Well done.
Jason
Who would you recommend in London if I need to shorten the length of the coat or sleeves?
There’s an article with recommendations for this here
Thanks Simon. The coat length can be shortened though right?
Yes
Hi Simon, for us metric impaired, what are the x-large and xx-large chest sizes in inches? Thanks, Scott
25 and 26.4
Hi Simon, great piece! I didn’t go through all the comments yet. Sorry if it was asked before. I assume the coat is able to be worn over a blazer comfortably, right? Also on you, wearing a 50? Best wishes
Yes Max, it can go over anything because of the shape – even a really big shawl-collar cardigan, as shown in the piece.
That includes me wearing a 50, in a medium coat
Simon, one thing I’m a little confused by – I typically wear a 40 (50) sized jacket, but I find the PS Oxford to be a snug fit through the chest at 57cm in Medium after a couple of washes, while the PS Chambray shirt remains a spectacular fit at 55cm in Medium. This coat is 56.5cm through the chest in pw4. Any guidance as to how it fits relative to those two shirts? Perhaps there’s something to do with the fabric or difference in measuring a coat vs a shirt…
Thanks for the guidance. Discovering the PS shop a few months ago has punished my wallet but has yielded some spectacular shirts to date. Off topic, but the PS Chambray may be my single best buy of the last year or two – love the 100 Hands story and they produce great stuff.
Hey,
Some of that will be explained by the material on the shirts – the oxford is rather thicker than the chambray, and shrinks a tiny bit where the chambray doesn’t.
On the coat, I’d say a size 4 will be fine for you. Remember that with a coat this shape, the chest is not widest part of it, as it has a slight A-line. But it is on a shirt. So the coat will feel roomier
Hi Simon!
I love the coat (and the fabric)! Just wish it was double breasted! Can you give me a hint on where I could buy this fabric or when you will have a db version? Thanks.
I’m afraid we developed the fabric, so it’s exclusive to us, and there are no plans for a double-breasted version.
However, I am working on a new iteration of the Anthology’s coat with them, which might fit the bill for you.
Thanks Simon. I hope it has a big herringbone pattern! Fingers crossed.
Simon, That seems like a great price for a coat of that quality and design. No wonder it’s selling out so quickly. Well done.
Cheers Thomas. It is greqt value, particularly given the amount of great wool in there, and details like the cashmere pockets. I think most of our coats and PWVC things are similar there
absolutely beautiful, i would have preferred a belt option to add more shape when needed. any chance you/pwvc can provide a belt or fabric so i can have it added at my own expense?
No, I’m afraid not, all the fabric is used on the coats.
Also, it would be fairly large design change, Zo, and not one I’d personally add. I’d prefer it if the coats out there were to my design rather than substantially altered. I hope that makes sense.
Why shoot in film?
This isn’t shot in film Mark?
Great (as always). I decided to sit this one out as I bought the brown one last year. I love the coat but can’t really justify it. I already have a bespoke DB navy overcoat and a navy pea coat as more “formal” coats so I think that is enough. With the wax walker and the motor trench I think that I am “covered”. Are there any differences (other than the fabric) between this one and the brown?
It sounds like you are Carl, yes!
No, no other differences
Hello Carl,
If your brown PS coat was size 4 and you were interested I would buy it to let you get the new herringbone iteration from PS.
I personally prefer the brown over the grey by far. Works better with my current wardrobe.
Cheers
Alain
Nice cream corduroy trousers Simon.A recent acquisition?Even in winter I think they would look good.Striking but in a good way.
Thanks. They’re a couple of years old, from Pommella.
I really like them, though having double pleats was probably a mistake. I thought it would be nice to have a dressy detail on a more casual material, but I’d wear them more if they were single pleat or flat front.
In winter they do look great, yes. Eg in an outfit like this
Not cream-corduroy then?
Sorry, no the ones in this post are cream corduroy. In the linked post are a woollen twill.
I meant that the linked post shows how good that colour can look in winter.
Simon, what a beautiful investment piece. I’d love to have that cloth for a casual/smart jacket, something like an unbelted Norfolk. The way you describe all the thoughtful touches behind how the coat wears makes me think of robes. Have you perhaps already considered a PS robe offering? I can see many of your same deliberate design adjustment made to a useful and sturdy “housecoat” for men. Cheers, Steve
Hey Steve,
Thanks, I can see it making a nice Norfolk.
To be honest I never wear a ‘housecoat’. I wear a dressing gown in the morning, but otherwise normal clothes that I might wear outside, such as a shawl cardigan, overshirt or other knit.
This is not to say there’s anything wrong with that style, merely that I really only design things I wear.
Hi Simon,
i wear mainly greys in the winter- mid greys, darker greys and charcoal. I have no doubt this coat will work with the mid to lighter greys but do you think this coat will work with darker greys to charcoal outfit?
I think it would be fine with charcoal and even mid-grey most of the time as well – certainly as trousers anyway. A mid-grey suit under it might perhaps be a lot of grey. It would help if there were some colour elsewhere, eg in the shirt and perhaps brown shoes rather than black
As a “grey” person myself, I found that the coat works very well, even with charcoal grey. In New York, monochrome works, but I often add a scarf in a bright color or pattern, if not both.
Nice coat, I worked for Burberry many years ago as a pattern cutter, I often used to draught coats for the boys in the row, it made me laugh how the boys struggled with such an easy coat to cut, must agree a very nice coat, I recently cut and made a very similar style coat to what you are wearing although herring bone it wasn’t Donegal, like the coat very much, well done
Well, I was on the fence too long and missed out on my chance! On the waiting list now!
I’m curious, would it be possible to acquire some extra cloth some way? Assuming I end up getting one, I would like to add a belt to it, and I would obviously like to use the same fabric for that.
Well, we should be getting a second small batch, which is good – confirmation today.
No, I’m afraid all the cloth is used in the coats, and it’s not available by the cut length to order
No leftover pieces from the cutting that could be turned into a belt? 🙂 (can’t blame me for trying, right?)
Regardless, looking forward to getting mine.
No, sorry!
superb
Hi Simon,
A lovely coat that would have a welcomed home in many a wardrobe & outfit. As we all know everything is down to personal taste but I noted your jean length with loafers & off white socks. The trend seems to be with some brands to have trousers & jeans at ankle length ( half mast) with quite a lot of sock exposed when standing. Whilst I can understand this in warmer climates & without socks I’m not too sure on the look, it reminds me of spats or Michael Jackson. Personally I show less sock, or a glimpse with loafers, other than when seated & the rise in the leg. I think there is the danger of being on trend & hip & very Soho. I’d be interested in your view on this topic more especially with the casual look as opposed to tailoring & smarter suiting.
Thanks Steve. I might do a separate article on it. I can see how it might look trendy, but it comes from sports roots – rolling up trousers so they don’t get caught etc, and so often works well with trainers or Ivy touches like white socks
Hi Simon,
That would be a good article plus maybe turn ups (cuffs) their height on trousers & jeans – some heights do seem too trendy & smack of youthful hipsters. But I know many like to show their socks. Again, bright sock, subdued, matching or contrast – possibly another article Simon.
It’s possibly a generation thing or just me. Half mast trousers have connotations of teenage boys growing out of their trousers. Likewise lighter denim jeans remind me of the 70’s where most were manufactured by stone washed, now thankfully we have darker indigo, wash them less & if they become too light or worn with can be relegated to rugged beachwear use.
Thank you again for these PS articles & the forum feedback which is always thought provoking or affirming.
Good suggestions Steve, and thank you
Thank you Steve. Yes, good point on the associations
Two quick questions:
Hey
You’re right on the flecks, which is why in this case they are more subtle, both in terms of their colours and their number.
However, actually these more subtle flecks serve to soften the pattern, stopping it being too strong and stark. It looks more natural and slubby this way.
At least that’s how I intended it
Dear Simon! Are your color 8 Aldens a D width? My aberdeen last (same full strap model) looks chunkier with E width. Thanks
Yes they are. Although I should probably have taken an E, as mine are pretty snug on the toes
Hi Simon, are you able to speak to import tax/duties for Canadian buyers—is the purchase price inclusive of such fees, or no? Thanks!
The price is exclusive of taxes and duties – there should be a ‘plus VAT’ on the price to indicate.
I’m not sure what the threshold is for duties in Canada, but in the US you pay on anything over $800
Hi Troy, as a Canadian buyer myself hopefully I can help answer.
I have purchased a few shirts and watch caps from PS and in my experience the import tax/duties included a fixed DHL charge (~$18 CAD) and %13 tax on the Canadian value of the item(s). I have been charged import tax on every order so I don’t think there is a threshold in Canada.
For me anyway, the total cost in $CAD (including exchange rate, shipping and import duty) is usually about double the listed price on the PS website. So definitely expensive, but the fit and the quality is fantastic and there is nowhere else in Canada I have found similar products.
Thank you Matthew, that’s very helpful.
Bear in mind, too, that the price on the website is not including UK VAT of 20%. So actually you’re paying a lower tax than people over here if yours is 13%. No one is paying just that ex-tax price
Good point Simon. I simply wanted to illustrate what Ivan can expect as a final price, so there is no sticker shock with duties. (The exchange rate is what really bumps the price for Canadians).
The more important question, to me, is value, and this is where I can easily justify paying the price for PS products. I am eagerly awaiting delivery of my Donegal coat, and about 75% of my clothing budget for the next two years has already been allocated to PS items.
Keep it up Simon, I really appreciate both your writing and your clothing collaborations!
Thank you Matthew, that’s so nice.
And sorry about the exchange rate!
Hi Simon-
Ordered mine and I wanted to say thank you for the coat- design, material, everything. It’s perfect. I shall be looking forward to wearing it as many times as I can.
Jay W
Fantastic. Cheers Jay
Simon,
Beautiful coat, but unfortunately already sold out. Any chance of a restock in size 54 or 52?
Will this coat also be available directly from PWVC?
Best,
Ade
Hi Ade,
Yes actually we had confirmation on Friday that we will have a second run, arriving in a couple of weeks. Best to get on the waiting list if you’d like one
Hello Simon! Just noticed that Private White has added the coat to their website for pre-order. I am already on the PS waiting list. Is there a risk that the second run won’t be enough to fulfil the waiting list? If yes, do you recommend pre-ordering through Private White or taking the risk and staying on the waiting list?
I’d stay on the waiting list Bilal – it’s still less than the total we’re going to receive, so there’s no danger there
It could be a good idea to compare prices and then decide if pre-ordering through Private White or staying on the waiting list, at least if you’re ordering from outside the UK. For me (ordering from Sweden) it seems that the coat will be quite a bit cheaper when ordering from Private White directly since they charge me in local currency and according to their info there shall be no additional import duties or VAT added.
Just to note Johannes, the import duties and VAT will be the same either way. There may be a difference on whether you’re charged at retail or when the piece arrives, but there’s no way to avoid those costs.
Wonderful piece Simon, bought mine as quickly as I could. Any idea when I might expect delivery — understand shipping was schedule w/c 1 November?
Hey. Yes they should all be shipping out this week.
Perfect, looking forward to it!
I’m also having a raglan coat made with Saman Amel and wondered what your thoughts on their collar was? I’ve asked for an extra cm on mine but wonder if it should be any longer (I’ve added quite a bit of length on their standard model, too).
I really like the coat I have from them, but the collar is one thing I would have had bigger if I could – you can see it here if you didn’t see that post
It’s hard to say remotely how much you might need though, as it relative to your neck, body shape etc a little bit as well. I’d just tell the guys you want it larger and see what they say, or use a picture as an example and see if they might tweak it more towards that look
Thanks Simon, your SA coat served as the inspiration for my commission! I even chose the same cloth family (pecora nera), although I went for a pre-brown/cream herringbone seeing as I’ll have the grey/cream Donegal! I’ll let you know how it goes with SA, expecting big things.
Nice, that sounds lovely
Wonderful piece Simon, I had a Crombie Balmacaan with a very similar herringbone pattern which I sold to fund the V2 coat. At 4degC in London right now, it’s the first wear of the season today!
Also worth noting – my tailor managed to lengthen the V2 by 4cm which has made a very pleasing aesthetic difference.
Great, good to know Lewis, thanks
My Donegal arrived this morning – it’s a lovely thing. The fabric is superb, and seems softer, more pliable than last year’s version in the dark brown. Thick, warm, but relaxed; the additional flecks of colour add texture from a distance, and are quite subtle even close up – but add that warmth and softness to the strong pattern.
It feels beautifully made, too; something I didn’t notice initially, then it suddenly registered – and this may seem obvious: great care has clearly been taken when cutting, so that the pattern on the angled edge of the pockets aligns perfectly against the pattern on the body of the coat. Just really nicely done.
I think this one is going to see a lot of use this winter… once again, PS and PWVC have made a thing of beauty!
Yes! Thanks Paul, I’m so pleased as you notice those details. It’s all deliberate
Pleased to report that I just received my coat and am delighted with it. I’m really grateful to Simon for all the design features that have been incorporated – the collar stands up perfectly and the cashmere pockets are just right for plunging hands into. This is definitely my favourite of the PS items I have.
I did visit the pop-up shop yesterday but Simon wasn’t there – however the thing that immediately struck me about the coat when first seeing it in person there are the flecks of different colour that do not come across at all on the photos.
Now I have tried it on, the cut and fit is perfect for me (size 4, 40″ chest) and even the length is perfect although I am not as tall as Simon.
I look forward to wearing this a lot and it definitely works with jeans as well as tailoring.
The material is lovely and has a great heavy drape. Although I do like the blue PS trench coat I have, I find that the placket (if that’s the right word) on the edge does not hang straight and unfolds. No such problem with the Donegal coat.
Even my wife liked it although her first question was, ‘Where’s the belt?’
Wonderful, thanks Benjamin, and sorry I missed you yesterday. I hope Lucas looked after you well.
No belt needed or required! Just enjoy that lovely A-line flow
Absolutely, it was a pleasure to meet Lucas and I came away with one of the watch caps.
Of course, that’s what I said to my wife!
Hello Simon,
Can the arms be shortened on this coat? If so, I’m presuming it would have to be done from the cuffs rather than the shoulder (looking at the shoulder construction)…
Yes, they can be shortened easily by about 2cm, before you start hitting the flap on the cuff. You can shorten more than that, but the tailor would need to take the cuff off and then reattach it. There are alteration details on the first article on the coat, here
I’m curious, why did you opt for hidden front buttons? Does that lend itself to a cleaner, more formal look? Given the casual elements and how nice the horn buttons are, you’d want them visible when the coat is buttoned. Plus it seems to add a tiny bit of contrast and visual element to the front that breaks up all of the herringbone.
Hidden buttons are more traditional, largely because it’s an extra layer of protection against the elements. So that’s the starting point.
Then, I like the look of when it is buttoned, the clean front that goes with the overall clean design, lack of belt etc.
And you see the buttons quite a lot in any case, as the coat will often be open.
I hope that helps
Really enjoyed the article. Having seen the process many times in Scottish mills, I always appreciate pieces that feature that actual craftsmanship that goes into the processes. I loved the Herringbone as I had one very similar back in the 80’s. I’ve always wondered why Donegal couldn’t utilise a ‘visual device’ on their coats as a clear indicator of its prestigious origin. One single green cuff or collar button maybe?
I guess that might not be to everyone’s taste, so a little limiting. But an agreed mark, like the Harris orb, would have gone a long way
Looks fantastic. Sadly I’ve missed the first run. I have a trench coat, peacoat, bomber but not proper overcoat. Anyone got any general recommendations on good brands for overcoats at similar price point (ie < £1000)? Including things a bit more formal, double-breasted etc. Just generally, where would you go to get a decent overcoat?
For a proper overcoat, Spencer, I think it’s worth spending a little more. I know it’s a lot, but it’s more equivalent to a full suit in terms of work involved and quality. For the same level as what you have, I’d look at more like £1500, perhaps from someone like Anglo-Italian for example
I missed the first round of releases. Just jumped on the waiting list yesterday for a size 4. What are my chances of still getting one? I just noticed PWVC opened their order. I would rather get one directly from you guys though if possible. Two weeks still the timeline?
We will certainly get back a 4 or two, as I know a few people had that and a 3 to check sizing. But there won’t be many.
I appreciate you wanting to buy from us, it’s great to have that support. But obviously if we don’t have any and Private White does, do buy from them. Perhaps wait until theirs are actually in stock?
My coat arrived this morning (swift transit from UK->US). I’m thrilled by it. As others have said the flecks in the weave are really excellent and don’t show up at all in the pictures; they add tremendous character to an already excellent coat. The collar is just excellent… why every coatmaker doesn’t add an insert I don’t know. Much like the PS chambray shirt I recently bought this coat just brings a smile to my face – it’s the right color, material, texture, cut… And I must say this is really fairly priced for the evident quality.
The only flaw I can come up with: At 5’9″ and a US size ~40, my first task is to get the coat in size 4 to my tailor, and I expect to take advantage of the full four inches of “buffer” in the length and the ~1 inch in the sleeve. For anyone concerned about sizing, as I was, the 4 ended up being excellent for me in all other respects.
Thanks Simon – great choice – I’m really enjoying the quality and curation of your shop.
Yes! So pleased CT
Hi Simon,
The Valstarino probably will, yes. The Donegal will but probably not in the same material. We’re looking into a pre-order in other cloths, but won’t be able to confirm that until early next year
Hello,
I’ve been trying to return one of these coats but was unable to do it online.
I’ve emailed the support email address twice but no response. How do I return the coat please?
Hi Annalisa,
When did you email the support team? Bear in mind they won’t be working over the weekend.
While you wait for that, do check you have used the correct email address – the one you used for ordering. That is the most common mistake people make.
Thanks
I have emailed [email protected] last Thu, Fri and again today but no response. Always using the same email address…
OK, thanks Annalisa. We’d aim to respond within 24 hours, and always should within 48 hours. I’ll see why that now hasn’t happened
This happened to me too…
Sorry about that Chris. Things were a little hectic last week with the pop-up, and then packing that all down on Monday. Do email me directly if you don’t get a response today
S
Hi Simon,
I had two questions on the new coat:
1. Why you did not opt for a DB version given your preference for DB on coats.
2. Why some of the detailing in the back such as martingale belt, pleats etc were not incorporated into the coat (similar to your Ulster coat).
Thanks.
Hi Vin,
– I like DB on a tailored overcoat, but not a raglan-shouldered balmacaan like this. The point there is the long lines and the drape
– Same again. That’s not the style here, and for me would look odd with this type of coat. They’re basically two different types, looks, traditions
Thanks Simon.
Would you view the herringbone Donegal as more versatile in terms of being able to be worn with tailoring and casual clothes (e.g. jeans and knit) versus say your Ulster coat?
Put another way. If you only had one overcoat to cover all your needs, which one would you choose?
Yes I would. It would be the donegal
Hi Simon.
I noticed the The Anthology x Permanent Style Polo Coat – Herringbone Donegal Tweed was recently released.
I had a few questions, if I may:
Thanks,
Vin
Hi Vin,
Yes they’re designed with different uses in mind, the Anthology one being rather smarter and more sartorial. I won’t be wearing that with workwear chinos and boots.
The price difference is the handwork, yes. This is effectively a RTW version of a bespoke coat, which was the cheapest I wanted to do given I love bespoke overcoats so much.
The Donegal V3 is 720g
Thanks Simon
Just as an FYI to any PS staff/Simon I was on the waiting list for this and have just found the missed notification in my spam. Strangely I received the original email to inform me that I was on the waiting list no problem and the all important notification went straight into spam. Possibly one to look into to aid others in the future.
Thanks Charles, that’s good to know. We have tried a fix recently to make these emails more recognisable, but also if you accept one email from that domain as not spam, it should help with the others too.
Was very pleased to wear the Donegal yesterday for the first time properly with a suit in the City. One question, I wasn’t able to keep the collar up when the cost was open, only when buttoned and it was too warm to wear buttoned. Any ideas on how to keep the collar up when open? Thanks.
Hi Benjamin,
It will stay up better than most, but it’s never going to be completely rigid, it will fold down a little. However, if you store it with the collar up, it will stay that way more – it was likely folded down when packed, so has been that way for a good while.
I hope that helps
Good tip, thanks Simon, I will try that.
Sorry to intrude Simon, however i think it’s worth mentioning as I noticed this when my coat first arrived. It seems to actually be the lapel itself that pulls the collar down when it’s been packed, folded with an open collar. Hanging it with the top 2 buttons closed for a while, problem solved, collar sit’s perfectly. Another point while I’m at it, the throat latch was buttoned upside down when it first arrived (opposite way to your images). These two things combined cement the collar into perfect position, like yours is.
Ck
Aha! Well good to know the first point worked, and thanks for letting me know about the latter. I’ll check that with Private White
Thanks, my throat latch was upside down too so I’ve changed that and buttoned it up. The top material at the front of the collar is a bit rumpled as a result but hopefully at least it will stay standing up.
Very astute, Chris; mine was also upside down and flipping it made a big difference. Thanks for sharing the discovery!
This might be controversial but are you sure Simon is not the one rocking the throat latch upside down in the photo? If you’d flip it “upside down” (as it was delivered) it would not only point downwards when buttoned up like throat latches usually do, but it’d also match the pattern on the collar. They did take great care in matching the pattern elsewhere so it’d make sense. But I’ll admit I don’t know everything there is to know about throat latches. 🙂
Having said that I do just now realise that if you wear it like Simon when not in use, you just have to unbutton one button and rotate it 180 degrees to button it up correctly across the front when you do use it, which is probably the right way to do it.
I’m confusing myself here haha.
Good point about the pattern Ben, didn’t realise that, and I can’t even verify it because my coat is off for a little length alteration, I’ll take your word for it though. It’s that 180 degrees rotation though that means the throat latch shape (soft V shape) actually covers the gap between the bottom of the collar and the middle, stopping the draught getting in. I recall Simon mentioning something about this in one of the previous iteration articles I think.
Yeah that makes total sense Chris. My coat should arrive today so I’ll have a hands on look later tonight.
I’ve just received my coat so just to make a long thread longer I just want to confirm that my coat was delivered with the throat latch attached in the same way as you can see in Simon’s photos above. The pattern all line up with the pattern on the collar. Unbutton the read facing button and rotate the latch 180 and it’d cover the throat like it should. Perfect!
Nice Ben. Just to add a little to that excess length, I reckon mine could well have been a one off with the latch upside down. Apologies for taking this one a little far Simon. Tis your fault at the end of the day for making such an epic coat.
Mine was upside down too, seems to be improving now when buttoned with the collar up while on the hanger. Thanks.
One more data point: mine just arrived today and the throat latch was also upside-down when compared to Simon’s photos.
Cheers josh! Pleasure to be able to come here and discuss.
Just wanted to throw in my verdict of complete satisfaction with this coat, along with the others here in the comments. It’s really everything you promised it to be: incredibly versatile, especially in a small, early-stage wardrobe; immensely flattering; reassuringly robust; and subtly unique thanks to all the little details that make PS products the best-in-class (the collar, the pocket lining, the fabric, and so on). It’s so satisfying to realise, within minutes of trying a garment like this, that it’s a justified and lifelong investment. Also, may I additionally thank you for the inclusion of excess fabric in sleeve and body length; though both are surprisingly close to what I need unaltered, modest extensions will help make the coat truly my own. Cheers!
Fantastic Josh, thanks for writing to say so
Even though you look dashing in these photos, I think they vastly undersell the fabric.
Its quiet charisma draws and delights the eye. It glows with almost a sense of greater reality than other objects. The black and white are warm and soft, the colored flecks as subtle as spots in sandstone.
A friend of mine comes from a family that’s been making hand-woven blankets for generations. Those plain but beautiful blankets are the only point of reference I have for this coat. Looking at it feels like stepping out of an IKEA into the studio of a master violin maker.
Jiminy.
I do wonder if the drapey cut works for me, or if it just comes off as baggy. I find myself wishing for a way to cinch it at the back or wrap it closely around myself. This surprised me as it’s a size 4 and I’m certainly a bit farther to wrap a tape around than Simon. Perhaps just takes getting used to, and I might have the sleeves taken up slightly.
On mine, the side with the throat latch is curved and stands up, while the other side is straight as if pressed and doesn’t stand up well. I’m hoping this eases up, otherwise the highly asymmetrical collar will be a problem.
That collar should soften up with time Dave. As mentioned above, storing it with the collar up will help. You can also take the throat latch off if you want the two sides to look the same.
On the fit, do also try buttoning it quite high when you do, to see if you like that. It’s instinctive to button it around the waist, but coats like this often look better if fastened near the top – the second button down or even that and the top one. It’s in keeping with the long flow of the piece
Hello Simon
Great looking coat. It’s exactly what I’m after this season.
I live in South Korea and I will order this nice and elegant coat.
So I have to choose carefully
Sizing question though: I wear a 38R typically, though may be more closely a 39.
40 tends to seem a bit large unless the fit is slim.
My favorite Drake’s raglan coats have the same chest measurements as the size 5/large in this coat, so I am guessing a 4/Medium might be too constricting over tailoring for me and a 5/Large would be best?
I’m 5ft 8inch, I’m smaller than you. i wear size 38 of Drake’s raglan coat.
Hi,
Sure, happy to help. I would suggest a 4 not a 5, if that’s the size of jacket you normally wear. The Drake’s ones are a bit more oversized than this. It also sounds like we’re a similar chest size, you’re even a touch smaller than me.
Wow, I really didn’t know you would give me advice.
Thank you so much for helping me. It’s an honor.
I always admire you and support you.
Thank you, it’s much appreciated
Just received my Donegal Overcoat and it’s just really wonderful. The only alteration I’ll have to do is shortening the sleeve as it is quite long, I even think I might have to move the wrist strap since the sleeve is probably more than 3cm too long.
So a question for you on this; what do you think is the correct length of the sleeve? I’ve tried to find images of you in the Overcoat with your arms hanging straight at your sides but I can only find photos where you either have your hands in the pockets or in front of you or adjusting the collar or similar. Would be really nice to see some examples of what you think is the correct sleeve length in this coat.
I wouldn’t say there is a ‘correct’ length Johannes – I think it’s a choice between two options.
The traditional length is to be longer than a shirt sleeve, and in fact dropping down a little onto your hand. This is so, when you lift your arm up, both shirt and jacket are still covered by the coat sleeve. If you were holding an umbrella, for example.
Most coats today, however, are made so that the sleeve is the same length as a shirt sleeve. So it is covered when your hand is at your side, but exposed when your hand is raised.
I hope that makes sense.
Thanks for your input, makes perfect sense. And asking for the ‘correct’ length was probably bad wording on my part, I was more after your opinion on sleeve length on this kind of raglan coat.
I’ve spent some time looking at images as well and will definitely go for what you refer to as the “traditional length”, letting the sleeve drop down close to the MCP joint of the thumb (second joint) which would mean that it more or less will end at the middle of the back of my hand.
Sounds good. Easier to shorten more at some point if you want to as well
What I did was to wear a tailored jacket under the coat and shorten the coat sleeves until it was slightly longer than the jacket sleeves.
wouldn’t that be the same as just matching the shirt sleeve though?
Hi, Simon.
Really like the Donegal coats.
I’m looking for one in brown and oatmeal rather than black and white, with the same 3×3 twill and larger herringbone pattern, but am struggling to find a fabric. Have you come across one like that?
Also, I agree with you that a ‘Level C’ Savile Row tailor may be overkill for something that, while it needs to be beautifully made, has raglan sleeves and a more casual fit. Are there one or two tailors you would recommend?
Thanks for any thoughts …
Best,
Jonathan
I’m afraid I haven’t Jonathan, no.
On tailors, I haven’t had a raglan made ever, so can’t recommend anyone directly. I have seen a nice one made by Fred Nieddu, but as you say I don’t think it’s worth paying that much for a bespoke raglan
Hi Simon. The new polo coat you’ve done with the anthology is beautiful, of course my question is, knowing your logical approach to these things, the effect of the dark brown weave on the polo vs. the black on the raglan. Would love to hear how you approached this (article maybe coming so might be premature here, apologies for that). For what it’s worth, I particularly like the slight starkness the black adds on the raglan, versus the ever so slightly softened effect the dark brown has on the polo.
Hey Chris,
Yes, no article specifically on that cloth selection, so feel free to ask away.
With the brown on the polo coat, I was thinking specifically that it might be something people would want to wear with grey flannels and other smart trousers, so maybe the brown would help there. But I agree on the starkness of the black on the raglan, and as I said that helps make that a slightly more casual and interesting coat too.
Thanks Simon,
Nice, very nice touch, makes total sense on the polo. If we take the raglan for a second then, when you first mentioned a grey iteration this year, I think some might have thought mid grey flannels were out the window. However, thanks in part to the more pronounced herringbone, that subtle exaggeration between the cream and black, could they still work? For instance, brown boots/loafers, grey flannels, navy knitwear, raglan?
Yes, I think so.
Hi Simon,
I’m somewhat new to your website and love the work you’ve done. Just curious if you may know or if any US based readers can chime in. There seems to be a price difference when I’m at checkout on the PS website vs. Private White’s. Does the price I’m seeing on the PS website include duties and sales taxes?
I put myself on the waitlist for a medium. I don’t want to miss out on this batch, which is why I went over to the PWVC website; however, the difference (~$500 USD) makes me think perhaps I should wait and see if I luck out with a medium coming back from the waiting list.
Alas, the wonderful anxieties of being a first time buyer of beautiful overseas products when you’re not 100% sure your size. Thank you!
Hi Pete,
No, the PS price doesn’t include duties and sales taxes, so that might account for the difference. You will pay duties on the coat, as anything above $800 going into the US is charged this. Then sales tax depends on your state.
Thanks for the reply Simon. It looks like I waited too long and missed out on my size on the PWVC website as well. Do you plan on doing another run of this coat or something similar in the future? Or perhaps expect to get a few back for the waiting list? Thanks again.
There will be a few back for the waiting list, yes. I can see about a dozen coming through
Excellent, thank you. If you get back a medium looking for a new home, I’ll be patiently camping out on the waiting list!
Thanks Peter. Lucas, in the Support team, will be emailing people when those come back in
Dear Simon,
Just wondering if there will be a restock for the smaller sizes in a forthcoming future ?
Also, as my budget is limited, was curious to understand the large price difference between here (£795) and Private White VC’s website (£950!)
Hope you can help! As the item would need to be shipped to Europe, taxes may apply and I’m concerned. Thanks in advance for your answers!
Kind regards and congrats for this beautiful product
Hi Nicholas. Ours doesn’t include VAT until you get to checkout and enter your shipping destination.
No, no restock coming I’m afraid, just sizes coming back into stock from exchanges. Though there are 10 or 12 of those coming through
I wear a 40long suit jacket
how does this translate to the sizes in the chart
Hey.
You’ll be around a Medium, a size 5. However, by far the safest thing is to measure a coat you already own and compare them, particularly for things like body and sleeve length
I just received the herringbone Donegal Coat today here in New Jersey. It is an absolutely beautiful execution. The fabric is top drawer. In addition, the coat is not as heavy as I thought it might be. In fact it is quite light. I am 5′ 9.5″ tall and took a size small. The shoulders and sleeve length are perfect. The length may be a tad too long as it seems to be 2.5 to 3 inches below the knee. In your images it seems to stop at your knee. Do you think I oaught shorten the coat? It does not look too inappropriately long in a full length mirror. Simon, can you offer an opinion?
I think it’s a personal question on the length. There’s no right or wrong. You definitely want it to be clearly below the knee, say an inch or two, and it’s about that on me. Having it longer is great too, it has more dash that way. But if you don’t want that then you can shorten it. It’s deliberately made to be easy to do so
I’m traveling international to Barcelona for the winter holiday and am aware the weather is relatively pleasant during the day in the sun, but temps tend to dip into the 50s or mid 40s F in the evening, thus being a good idea to layer. Will this coat be a good travel companion for this trip or will it generally run too warm for this climate and be a bit bulky to tour the city in (e.g., if I have to carry it during the day at times), or should I opt for a lighter coat (both in terms of weight and thickness)? Just trying to get a decent sense of the temp range for this coat (understanding people are different in running hot or cold and layering plays a factor). Thx folks!
I think it will be fine, but yes with a fairly big caveat that it depends how you feel he heat
Hey there Simon – beautiful fabric choice!
Is it possible to take this to a tailor to remake the lapel from the ‘goat ears’ shape (not sure of the technical name) into a more conventional notch lapel please?
Many thanks,
Johnson Rub
Hi Johnson,
No I’m afraid not, it’s an exclusive cloth that we developed ourselves, and then made into the coats. It’s not available to buy by the cut length
Apologies Simon, to be more clear, can a tailor remove the ‘goats ears’ lapel from the RTW coat in order to convert it to a more classic lapel please?
Many thanks
Johnson
No I don’t think so Johnson
Hi Simon,
I received my coat and love it.
For men wondering about sizing, I took my usual size; it is cut generously so there is room to wear a heavy sweater or jacket under it. No need to upsize.
I did see some comments about the weight. It is exactly the heaviness I was looking for. It is easy to find lighter tweed coats. I live in the middle of Canada so I wanted something warm. I should be able to wear this coat up to about minus 25 degrees Celcius.
Thanks for the great garment!
M
Dear Simon,
I’ve been doing a lot of research of late about the balmacaan overcoat and your name comes up a lot in a number of articles. It would be great to have your advice on choosing the right coat/fit based on what you’ve created with the new donegal and it’s previous iterations.
Just how roomy are these coats meant to be? I’ve been quite particular on the colour and prefer camel and black which is why I opted for a Magee. However, in buying my normal size (42) it seems massive, in the body particularly. Sleeve length and shoulder fit is good but I am unsure as to whether I should size down, go for a different brand or have it tailored (the latter being anathema I know given the style). Typically I border between a 40-42 chest based on sizing.
Any thoughts and advice would be much appreciated.
Best regards,
John
Hi John,
Sure, happy to help.
The traditional style is very roomy. This gives it drape and perhaps some swagger, but also means you can wear anything underneath it – even the biggest, chunkiest shawl cardigan.
A slimmer fit would be more contemporary. However, it is quite easy to slim the body later on, if you find you don’t like the fit so much. Not by a huge amount, but certainly a few centimetres either side. So if in doubt, I’d err towards the bigger
I hope that’s helpful
Hi Simon, my coat arrived today – the only thing that I don’t like about it is that I’m going to have to wait five or six months before I can wear it in Sydney. Lovely coat – many thanks.
Cheers Josh
Received my size 2 just a couple days ago! Absolutely gorgeous coat, though a tad big on me (5’8″, 145) – I assume I can have the same alterations made on it as I would on a sportcoat (i.e., sleeves, length, and waist)?
Broadly yes. Have a look at the original launch article for all details on what can be altered and how
Hi Simon,
Prospective buyer here. I’m 5’10” 155lbs and usually wear a small or medium, slim or extra slim fit, 39” chest. My chest is very narrow relative to my shoulders – often times I would say that my shoulder is the M size but my chest is the S size.
I give you a bit too much information because it reflects my concern for the coat. Will a regular fit look baggy and strange on me? Is there a body type that this garment would specifically not flatter? I don’t like the feeling of a garment that exacerbates my thinness or that makes me look like I am a mast and the garment is a sail.
FWIW – I purchased your PS x Private White Size 5 (per the guidance of the chat function of the Private White website) and it was comically large. I then bought a size 3 of PW’s regular peacoat on sale and it was a bit small.
Lastly, I am a casual dresser. Usually jeans or chinos, only when I go out on a date with my wife do I wear proper trousers. Jeans and a jumper, Chinos and a thermal, that kind of a thing. Not the usual reader of your fine website.
Thank you,
A
Hi. I think the coat will look fine on you – it will be loose, but it’s meant to be loose. That’s the style so it will be deliberate. I would recommend a 4.
You can still buy this coat directly from the Private White website. It costs more than Simon’s price but includes shipping, which I believe his price does not, so possibly about the same. (I paid 1200 euros including EU VAT and shipping to Rome; it arrived in four days.
Incidentally, I love it.
In case you are unaware Simon, the link above to the webshop under Ordering is broken/404 page.
Thank you Con. I’ll fix that now
I ordered the coat directly from Private White. I loved last year’s version, even though brown is very much not my color. I wasn’t sure about the oversized herringbone, but it works perfectly with my grey, black, and white wardrobe.
The tailoring is fantastic, almost a checklist of things I like from a big collar to a great below-the-knees length to a loose and drapey fit. And pockets: deep, useful pockets.
Now if only winter would arrive in New York, so I could enjoy how warm it is in comfort.
Have you considered doing the coat in a shade of blue/navy?
We have, yes. It’s in consideration as an option for next year, though there are some other strong contenders too!
(Dark) navy would be fantastic.
Well Simon, after contemplating this coat since you first announced it, re-reading this post and staring lasciviously at the photos ever since, I finally broke down and ordered one – miraculously a Large was still available.
One question on length advice though: while I know the coat can be shortened, I’m curious as to your thoughts on leaving it a bit longer? For reference, I’m 5’9” so it will probably drop to about mid-calf on me without any adjustment. I’m wondering if that’s a bit too much of an affected look vs. trying to keep it only slightly below the knee. I’m not Neo and this isn’t the Matrix (I hope).
I’m eagerly awaiting its delivery in a few days!
I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that at all Rav, it could look really nice.
I would encourage you to try wearing it for at least this winter to see whether you like it or not, before shortening.
So it arrived today. Wow. A magnificent coat – well done Simon! The size 5 fit is spot on for me (inline with all my other PWVC jackets/shirts). My first balmacaan and the flowing lines and roominess are a nice change from my only other long tailored coat (a topcoat). I have long arms for my height so the sleeves are mostly perfect, perhaps a slight reduction at most. The length falls as expected and I will leave it longer for now as suggested.
Being overly obsessive, I went over every inch and the stitching was mostly flawless with only one area where there was some loose thread near the collar (far too small an issue to warrant any action). The only other tiny thing was the throat latch was attached upside on arrival as experienced by a few others.
All in all, very happy with this acquisition!
Hi Simon. Superb content as always. I have a very similar coat, made of Harris Tweed, raglan shoulders, pretty much the same thing except perhaps a tad longer. I love it and wear it oft und gern, but ever since I started doing so, I debated two issues: (1) Should this piece be taken in around the natural waist (It hangs a bit loose), and/or (2) should I remedy the slightly oversized look and feel by adding a belt. Now, I CTRL-F-ed your take on the belt, so I’d be much grateful if you could advise on the (1). Thank you.
Nice Jan. I think keep it as it is – that’s the style. Certainly, don’t take it in at the waist, as that would give the coat shape where it’s not designed to have any. If you were to take it in, you’d have to slim the whole body down, armpit to hem
Thoughts on the Donegal after several outings. The herringbone is bold. Fabric robust. Lovely flecks of color in the weave. Pocket lining is thick almost chamois. Definitely more left bank between the wars rather than Neapolitan iguy. At 5′ 10″ and 135 lbs the medium is generous falling 4 inches below my knees. Good fit with a tweed jacket or heavy knit sweater. DHL front door delivery to the Southeast US was flawless with $150 tariff paid via iphone. Simon might you consider a glove pocket on future versions ( a la Waxwalker without the zipper)? Inner breast pockets are difficult to access seated in a car and they drag down the lining. A glove pocket is so functional for an iphone. Another heirloom piece. Just a great coat.
Wonderful, thanks Robert, and I’ll look at the glove pocket suggestion, yes
Recently received the coat here in New Jersey. Seamless ordering and delivery for those interested. As well, I was also kept well informed of the delivery process via email. Well done. As for the coat, I am 5’9.5 inches in height and have an athletic but trim build, weighing in at 155lbs(information for those of similar size). I ordered the coat despite some concerns that it might be too long and too voluminous for my build(I ordered a size small). But after trying it on in front of a full length mirror, with and with a suit jacket on, my concerns proved to be unfounded. It has the look I was after and is well fitting and not at all too large. Aspects of quality are to found in Simon’s description and so I will not repeat that in this post. In summary this was a very positive experience and I am very glad I have this singular piece in my wardrobe.
Wonderful, thank you for letting me know Stephen
Hi Simon
Any news on when the second batch of these may be available?
Hi Andrew,
There was a second batch back in November, I’m not sure if you’re referring to that? If you were on the waiting list you should have received an email when they came in.
You’re looking at Autumn 2022 now I’m afraid, although we are planning to do some kind of pre-order system for this and previous years’ coats.
“previous years coats preorder” hmm… nice to know my idea stuck!
holding my thumbs for v1 return!
Hi Simon, I would add my vote along with Martins for a v1 return (and ideally in the heavier v2/v3 weight)!
I ordered the v3 version and – very reluctantly – returned it (it felt like sacrilege to return such a beautiful coat that fit me). I found the pattern a bit too strong and “not me” at the end of the day, and crossed my fingers for another iteration in the v1 or a “smaller-pattern v3”.
One thing the coat did do, however was cement my appreciation for your site and PWVC’s garments, as well as help confirm my sizing.
I would jump at a chance to pre-order for Fall 2022!
Thanks Matthew. Good news then, as we’re just confirming the order for the cloth on this. Details soon
I’m also hoping for a return of the V1 pattern, in the V2/3 weight. For me, the order in which they were released – V1, V2, V3 – is also the order of my pattern preference, with V1 being the one I like most, V3 the one I like least and V2 somewhere in the middle. I tried V1, but found it a little too lightweight. I’m also between sizes (4 and 5), which I also found frustrating. I found that size 5 was best across the shoulders, but too loose elsewhere. Size 4 was perfect everywhere except the shoulders. Would it be possible to alter a size 5 down to a size 4, whilst leaving the fir across the shoulders the same?
It sounds like the new pre-order will be perfect for you then, RT.
In terms of fit, definitely go for the right fit across the shoulders. It’s easy to slim the body down with the side seams if you want to.
Hi Simon, if you are indeed planning on doing the V1 grey in a heavier weight I was wondering if you would be offering the cloth separately? I have V2 (which I love and am wearing today) but I feel like I don’t need another raglan. I was looking at cloths for an ulster and was surprised that actually there aren’t that many heavy (c. 25 oz) options in herringbone available.
Yes, we are planning to offer the cloth separately as well
Hi Simon,
Received my coat the other month; a bit late commenting on it. The coat is stunning and is easily my favourite coat in my collection. Sleeves were a little long but a quick visit to the tailor fixed that up. Fit wise the size 3 (S) was absolutely perfect for me at 174cm and 66kg.
Would love to buy another coat in Navy or Navy/Blue. Fingers crossed that is the colour for 2022!
Fantastic, great to hear Daniel.
And yes, it will be!
Any idea which colors you’ll be offering in 2022?
Also, I echo the request for an external pocket for gloves / phone that was mentioned in another comment.
Thanks. I’m not sure we’ll be adding that, but the plan for this year is to offer all three previous colours for pre-order, in March, and then to offer a new navy in Autumn. The latter isn’t confirmed yet, but the pre-order is
all 3 colours.. what about weight? and full price preorder or half half?
The weight will be the same as the herringbone coat – bringing all three to a nice practical weight in the middle. Pre-order will require half payment.
thank you! so I guess I’ll keep on struggling whether it’ll be too warm for me.
over knitwear, sure, but 5 is too small and 6 is too big. as far as layering, I’m fairly certain it’s too warm.
as a point of reference. since October wore your Vax walker daily as a commuter jacket here in London only over knitwear. I can count on fingers days when I was actually zipping it closed with liner in, December and January liner in was nice and cozy, October and I suspect February liner goes to storage.
Hi Simon,
any news on the navy?
Yes, dark navy is confirmed for this October. Hope you like it!
I don’t know how much you’re willing to share about this yet, but I’m curious: will the dark navy be in a cloth similar to the Bridge Coat, or remain a donegal?
It will remain a donegal – the same family as these others we have done
can I ask, how much the cut has changed between versions? I actually saw outdoors in person v3 and I take it back all I said about this coat being too bright. it’s actually really nice yellowish cream.
popped in private white and very strangely if v1 size 5 I could barely button top 2 buttons, v3 is almost a perfect fit size 5 over knitwear!
still struggling whether it would be too warm for me…
The fit hasn’t changed Martins, so those should be the same. The cloth of V1 is lighter and thinner as a result, but that should be the only difference
Yes! Just scored a size 5 from PWVC! Already a happy customer in the dark brown (last years version). Is it more fabric to alter on this (3rd version) than the brown one? My tailor had to add extra fabrics to make it long enough for my 6,5″ body. Added around 8-10 cm to make it fly below the knees! These two balmacaans will be great for color variations and style.
Nice, that’s great to hear Kristoffer. I’m afraid the inlay in the hem will be the same as the brown though
I have been looking for a raglan coat for this entire season, roomy enough to easily work over odd jackets (enough that you could drive in the whole thing) but also not appear weirdly oversized over knitwear if needed (as a one-size-up formal coat would). Your design is clearly the best one I’ve found: most raglan are designed to be belted, which really makes them look too much like home robes to me. I suppose one could remove the belt, but he’d be stuck with a coat that wasn’t designed for that, usually too shapeless.
Sadly, I was very sad to see the new version with this huge, high-contrast herringbone (funny enough, it keeps reminding me of Cruella de Vil from Disney’s 101 Dalmatians), while the previous dark brown donegal was so charming.
I haven’t found any suitable replacement though (the best one was Cording’s brown donegal, but sold out in my size), so I guess I might as well wait it out till next year and hope you bring something like that back.
Hi And,
We are actually planning to offer a pre-order this Spring, for all previous three iterations of the coat. So watch out for that, or put your name down with [email protected] in advance
Great, thanks.
Since we’re getting very close to being able to pre-order any of the three variations of this coat, I wanted to report on my experience with the 2021 variation. Simon made it look so fabulous in the photos that I bought it, even though it is considerably more flamboyant than anything else I own. I’m an older guy, living in Washington DC, the population of which has no sense of style, permanent or otherwise, to generalize.
My wife’s first reaction was quite negative: “You’re trying too hard.” I loved it, however, even though the size of the pattern scared me a little. Since then my wife has grown to like it a bit. It feels wonderful to walk around in, and I’ve been happily wearing it around DC for a couple of months, walking the dog, going out to dinner. No one other than my wife has said a word to me about the coat, positive or negative. I really should have expected that. For years I have worn a number of suits and jackets made bespoke for me by WW Chan, in beautiful fabrics, and no one has ever said a word to me about them. I thought this consistent with a general rule: the wearer makes the impression, not the garment. And apparently I don’t make an impression.
Yesterday, however, I was in NYC wearing the coat. I emerged from the subway in Soho and was walking down Mulberry Street, and within two minutes, a male voice behind me said, “Beautiful coat, man”. When he passed me and I was thanking him I saw a very cool-looking twenty-something in tasteful streetwear. I then walked around the corner and was walking up Elizabeth Street, and within a few seconds, it happened again — a male voice behind me: “Beautiful coat”. This time another stylish guy, thirtyish, in denim. So, in this beautiful coat, even I can impress, in the right city, in the right neighborhood, at least from behind.
It is indeed so frustrating when our significant others do not agree with our own sense of style. Especially if we spent (too much) time researching for the best iteration of something, only for it to be shut down with such a simple yet disparaging comment that, while not actually saying much about the coat, kind of triggers that typical male fear of appearing vain, which society taught us to be bad.
That being said, I also felt this iteration a bit too high-contrast and plan to secure the previous brown Donegal herringbone, which can impress myself without hopefully incurring in the above peril.
Just wondering, which do you wear more often, the PW Donegal overcoat or the donegal collaboration with the Anthology? And are they similar in quality (the one from The Anthology is a bit more expensive)? The Anthology one looks a bit more formal with the lapels, but as you demonstrate in the pictures, it can go well with white jeans (and presumably) blue jeans as well.
I’ve always wanted a large print donegal coat and I’m flirting with the idea of getting one in the Fall. Leaving aside the price difference, I guess it comes down to the collar.
I don’t own the Anthology one – I didn’t take one as I already had the PS Donegal, and the Anthology polo camel.
I think there is a big style difference here, and that’s what I would buy on the basis of. Even though the Anthology one can work with jeans, it is still an overcoat, and more formal. It’s stretching to that, rather than being a natural fit. The PS donegal is the opposite – natural with anything casual, stretching to anything formal.
Quality wise, the Anthology is better in as much as it has lots of the handwork a bespoke coat would have. I wanted that if I was going to support a RTW overcoat. But you just don’t need that work in something like a casual raglan.
Evening Simon, Sizing advice if I may enquire. Firstly though, quite rightly, whenever I ask this, you suggest comparing to a similar item I own already. In this instance I own nothing similar so I’m going to put you on the spot! I’m 6ft, 41in chest and 32.5in waist. I take a size 5 in your fabulous wind walker and size L in the many shirts of yours I own, as well as your recently launched T. On a side note, when can we expect a restock? One in navy and another in white for me. They really are a bit special, if any of your readers were sitting on the fence. So, original question. 4 or 5? Thank you.
T-shirts hopefully late Summer.
On the donegal, this might not be helpful, but I honestly think you could wear either. The 5 sounds like it would be the more traditional, looser and drapier fit. The 4 a bit more snug and modern looking.
When I was putting it on readers in the pop-up, I found this consistently – people could really wear both
Hi Simon,
I’m interested in the pre-order for this coat, but as it’s my first piece of high end clothing, I had a few questions about sizing before I moved forward. I am 5’11” about 185lbs normal build and have a ~ 41.5″ chest, and I measured the only overcoat I own and pit to pit the measurement was about 59cm (23.22″). My blazer size is 42 or 42T (I have longer arms), and a shirt that fits me well is sized 41.7″ chest, 18.9″ shoulder, 28″ center back, 26″ sleeve. Would a size 4 or 5 be best for me?
And last, in terms of calculating the final cost if the delivery destination is Canada, including all of the taxes and import fees and shipping costs, is this accurate: £792 + 12% sales tax (“VAT”) + £19.90 shipping (based on PS shop estimate)?
Thank you in advance.
Cheers!
Hi Krishan,
I would say probably a 5, particularly as you can slim it down or shorten it more easily than the other way around.
In terms of costs, I don’t know the sales tax and duties specifically for Canada, but it sounds like you’ve got a good handle on it. Just make sure there wouldn’t be any duty separately of VAT.
S
Simon how high is the collar at the back including the collar band?
Including the collar band it’s 11.5cm
Hi Simon,
i saw the cloth is available for pre-order – do you think it would work as a sports jacket?
No, it’s too heavy and bulky for a sports jacket, sorry
i thought as much but thought worth checking. thanks
Simon, can I just ask: will you/PWVC be offering the herringbone Donegal for standard sale this year, ie, normal availability, or was it just for those who pre-ordered? Sorry, I’m sure you explained somewhere but I can’t find the email/post. Thanks.
We are likely to, yes, it just depended on the amount that people pre-ordered. It’s looking like we have at least a few in just that colour that will be available ready-made
I’m curious, how successful was pre-order? as in successful enough to repeat/expand?
Most coats were sold – the charcoal all through, and most of the other two. However, it is a lot of logistical work (too boring to go through) and I can’t see it being done every year. I think it makes sense when there are products that people want to bring back, or there is some existing demand for, but not enough certainty about that to make it commercially viable without some advance purchases. I can’t see any other products where that applies at the moment, but there may well be in the future.
wasn’t the second installment due this august? I’ve seen no indication of it yet, not even in the email that was sent with the future product recap.
Also a bit sad to hear about the navy now that I have already preordered another colour, to be honest. Would have liked to know before buying if you knew the new version was coming.
Hi And,
Yes, everyone who bought the pre-order was emailed last week asking for the second half of the payment. Maybe check your spam folder in case the email is in there?
If not, if you ask the support team they can provide the link for payment.
Sorry to hear that on the navy – I did talk at the time in comments and on social about the colour that was coming up for this year, but perhaps I should have been more direct about that.
Hi Simon, if a raglan coat’s hem ends right below my kneecaps when I wear it, would you say the coat length is too long for me? Should I shorten it to above the kneecaps?
Many thanks,
Jack
It’s a question of style Jack, certainly not right or wrong, but I strongly prefer coats that are below the kneecap, even on shorter men
I see. I think that the longer the coat, the more flattering it looks.
I am 6 ft tall, but I have short calves relative to my height which makes my legs(calves) less visible when the coat ends below the knee cap if I compare the look to yours. Should I still go for the below-the-knee cap?
Yes, I think so Jack
Hi there, thinking of joining the waiting list for this one. I have a couple of questions:
Thank you so much.
1. It would be warm enough for most of the winter, most places. In the coldest winters in New York, in significant minus degrees, you might need some very warm layers underneath. But for what sound like your needs, I think it would be good.
2. I’d suggest either the grey herringbone or the navy in that case. Both would work very well.
3. Probably yes, though ideally compared it a coat with a roomy cut if you can – if there’s anything there you have to compare it to.
4. Yes it would, but we ship to Europe DDP, which means duties and taxes are paid in advance. You pay nothing extra and the package goes straight through customs to you without having to pay anything extra to get it released.
Also, if I can say so, you should never have to pay anything extra in the EU, shipping from the UK. Even if you have to pay on arrival, there are no duties between the UK and EU, and you just pay your local VAT instead of UK VAT as you did before. I don’t really understand why people seem to think there are such duties.
Any other question please do shout!
Hi again Simon,
Any news of when this iteration would be restocked (if at all), now that you have released the navy one? Also, what is the way to preorder?
Thank you,
Larry.
Hi Larry,
The pre-order was a one-off offer back in the spring. It’s not a regular way we sell things.
We’re just sorting through all those pre-orders and seeing what we have left, then those coats will be put up for sale towards the end of October. I expect there will be a handful of these grey herringbones
Dear Simon,
Sorry if I missed that on previous comments. I have the Wax Walker in size 4 which I love. Which size would you recommend for the Donegal Overcoat ?
Probably the 4 too – though if you have another overcoat, it’s worth comparing the measurements just to be sure
Hello, Simon. Do you have any information on the measurements from shoulder to shoulder? Thanks!
Not really Drew, as there isn’t a shoulder point to measure from, being a raglan?
facepalm dot gif
a little late to this thread but where can I purchase the saffron/mustard scarf? Thanks in advance!
It was from Anderson & Sheppard – a shawl style. Not sure if it’s still available
I got my herringbone Donegal coat a couple of months back and wore it out for the first time in Manchester (close to where it was made!) last night. I had three different strangers tell me what a lovely coat it is, and one of them even wanted to buy it off me (no chance!).
Amazing, thanks for letting me know Oliver
Hi, I got this version of the raglan Donegal Overcoat last year and used it all the time, it is simply amazing!
Now when I took it out of the closet this year I noticed that it had a bit of puckering on the shoulders from the hanger, I’ve only used a really good quality suit hanger. But I’m guessing it’s still due to the hanger since it’s not really made for raglan sleeves (more for filling out the regular suit shoulders).
Do you have any recommendation on how to avoid this problem for the next storing period? Are there hangers available specifically for raglan sleeved coats? Or do you instead recommend to store the Overcoat folded (or will it then get creases)?
Either way Johannes, the puckering or creases will drop out pretty quickly. You can give it a quick steam if you want, to do it immediately, but after a wear or two they should go. I don’t think it’s worth doing anything specific in order to avoid this after six months of storage, given how quickly that will happen
Hello Simon,
I have been wearing my PS bridge Coat extensively this winter, but have found myself wishing i had a casual overcoat for less formal occasions. That has brought me to this grey iteration of the Donegal Overcoat, which i see is in stock.
Do you think this is a good complement to the Bridge Coat? These would be the only overcoats i own. Also, i was thinking of going for this grey version rather than this year’s navy, as the grey seems to pair a touch better with casual clothing. Is that fair to say?
Many thanks.
Hey John,
Yes I think they would be very complimentary, and fill up the needs of a wardrobe nicely. The donegal would also go better with casual clothing as well as being just a different style – a little more slouchy, less sharp.
Any other questions, always feel free to ask
Cheers