Introducing: The new donegal coat

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Wednesday, September 23rd 2020
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This is the new Donegal Overcoat - the update on the raglan coat released last year

The only change on that version is the colour and the weight of the cloth. We decided to go with a heavier tweed this year, to make it into a true Winter coat: it's now 800g rather than 620g. 

That makes it warmer, but also makes it drape and fall even better - something that's particularly lovely in a loose raglan, and hopefully comes across in images like the one above.

The yarn is the same as last year - from 'Donegal Yarns', the last remaining spinner of the product in Ireland. It’s a tiny mill that has been spinning the distinctive flecked yarn since the nineteenth century, and the Kilcarra tweed we used deliberately echoes the feeling of the first incarnations.

This year we just used a heavier version, and tweaked the colours. Essentially, last year’s was a grey and black herringbone, with variously coloured flecks. This year we’ve swapped the grey for brown, so overall the effect is of a deep, dark-brown cloth, with natural, organic variation. 

We did this both to offer something different and because I felt a dark brown like this would still be versatile. It’s easier to wear with grey trousers or knitwear, but just as smart - an effective bridge between casual and formal, as the grey was. 

I knew I didn’t want warm brown, as mentioned on the original piece. But this mixture with black works perfectly. 

As with the shoot last year, Jamie and I photographed this in Ireland with two different outfits, in order to illustrate that versatility. 

Above the coat is worn casually, with cream jeans, a white oxford shirt, a grey knit and loafers. 

Those loafers could easily be swapped for slim sneakers, and while white jeans look particularly nice, indigo denim also works well. The examples on the first post are still illustrative there.

A baseball cap makes it more casual still; a watch cap keeps it smarter.

Then below, the coat is worn with fairly formal tailoring: a navy cashmere jacket, a blue oxford shirt, mid-grey flannels and black-suede shoes. 

This demonstrates, hopefully, how the coat could be worn for commuting to the office as well as at the weekend. It’s a little casual for a full worsted suit and tie, but is good for any sports-jacket combination. 

Even the graphic print of an Hermes scarf (just peeking out of the pocket here) doesn’t look out of place, despite its aesthetic being rather far from the ruggedness of Donegal. 

And the cream scarf shown with this outfit further down smartens everything up. A hairier, checked scarf would have had the opposite effect. 

The coat is available to buy on the Permanent Style shop here. We’ve bought slightly more than last year, but I’d assume they're still going to go fast. 

All the other details from last year’s iteration are the same: the dark-brown matte-horn two-hole buttons that I like so much; the dark-gold lining; the big newspaper pocket; the cashmere-lined pockets. 

Actually, one small thing we did tweak last year was the front of that lining on the pocket, which seemed to snag a little on mine. Now it sits perfectly. We also widened the sleeve slightly following feedback. 

There are many other things I could go into, all of which have been retained from last year as they functioned so well. 

If you want the full run-down, it’s probably best to read the original launch article, here.

For those that want a quick summary, here are the key bullet points:

Cloth and make:

  • The Donegal Overcoat was designed to be the most versatile coat possible for modern tailoring and lifestyles.
  • It was made in Donegal tweed because of the pleasing but subtle texture. “There’s slubbiness in there and colour variation when you look carefully, but it never feels as old-fashioned as a big windowpane,” as I said at the time.
  • The yarn is dyed, blended, carded and spun all by the same mill in Donegal.
  • The cloth is woven by Mallalieus of Delph, a small family-run mill in the middle of the Pennines. 
  • It is manufactured by Private White VC in Manchester.
  • The pockets are lined with cashmere. I don’t understand why anyone uses a synthetic - it’s so cold. And cashmere is a big step-up on normal cottons. It’s like putting on luxurious gloves every time you put your hands in.

Design:

  • Collar lifted up, slightly higher on the body, so it encircles the neck and covers the shirt and tie when buttoned: “This is practical, giving more protection from the wind, but also flattering, as it makes the wearer look taller and broader across the shoulders.” 
  • More importantly, the collar has a large crescent-shaped insert at the back, allowing it to stay up when popped. Something bespoke overcoats often miss out.
  • Coat a couple of inches longer than most, so it drops just below the knee. But easy to shorten and with 2cm of inlay so it can even be lengthened. (There's also more inlay in this new version - full details below.) 
  • Throat latch cut to follow the lines of the collar, and sweep away with angled ends (see above).
  • Two buttoned in-breast pockets, one newspaper pocket on the left hip.
  • Buttoned straps on the wrists. 

Ordering

  • The Donegal Overcoat costs £792 plus VAT. The price is slightly higher than last year, reflecting the extra raw material that has gone into the cloth.
  • At the moment it is exclusively available through Permanent Style, on the webshop here.
  • There are sizes from Small (chest 48, Private White size 3) up to Extra Large.
  • Have a close look at the measurements below if you're unsure of sizing, and if in doubt compare them to a coat you already own.
  • However, the coat fit is pretty standard, so taking your normal size is usually safe. 
  • I am six foot tall and usually wear a size 50-chest jacket. I am wearing a Medium.
  • As with all PS products, there are free returns should you want to change sizes. Ships from the UK.

Measurements:

X-Small/2  Small/3  Medium/4  Large/5  X-Large/6  XX-Large/7
 Chest 50.5cm  53  56.5  60  63.5  67
 Waist 52  54.5  58  61.5  65  68.5
 Bottom hem 58.5  61  64.5  68  71.5  75
 Length 108.4  109  110  111  112  113
 Sleeve 81  82  83  84  85  86
 Cuff (width) 13.8  14.1  14.5  14.9  15.3  15.7


Alterations:

  • The new version of the coat has extra inlay, increasing the possibilities for alteration.
  • Length can easily be shortened - up to 10cm without interrupting much of the balance.
  • It can also be lengthened slightly if needed, by up to 4cm.
  • The sleeves can be lengthened by around 4cm if required.
  • And they can be shortened. Shortening by 1.5cm would be easy - more than that would require the wrist strap to be moved.
  • The sleeve width can be increased from bicep to cuff up to 2.5cm.
  • The body - chest, waist, and hem width - can be increased by up to 4cm in circumference.

Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man


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Danny

I know it doesn’t matter as you’ll sell them all anyway, but the increase in weight really kills me. I’ve been waiting months for this as I missed out on the first one and 800g is just far too heavy for an Australian Winter.

It’s absolutely beautiful though, no doubt. It would just be wasted on my hanger, never quite cold enough to wear.

Australia… zero access to bespoke or even MTM (except in Melbourne I guess), and a sharp collection of some of the worlds worst RTW, all at my fingertips. First world problems I guess.

Is there any chance for a lighter cloth next year?

Danny

Agree completely it’s hard to please everyone. I think (personally and selfishly) that it’s discouraging to see everything cater to the same group though. As though Londoner’s weren’t already spoilt for choice.

Apologies, I’m just feeling sorry for myself, I already knew it was gonna be 800g but I was just too excited for too long and was holding out hope that maybe it was gonna be perfect for me.

Ahh well, it’s still beautiful on screen 🙂

Joe

Hi Danny,

Worth giving Trunk Tailors a go. As good as it gets in Australia IMO.

Regards,

Joe

Danny

Thanks Joe, agree they’ve got a great aesthetic.

I’ve got a blazer and trousers on the way from them but unfortunately the lockdown in Melbourne has meant that is paused for the moment.

Unfortunately it doesn’t solve my craving for a PS Donegal ‘one coat to rule them all’. The big draw Being the (lighter) Donegal cloth.

Charlie

Danny, check out Mawson Ossa in Sydney, Grant specialises in producing overcoats suitable for the Australian climate – and he’s just about to launch his RTW line (in addition to MTM and bespoke)

Danny

Good tip Charlie! His stuff looks great and I’ve organised a slot in his next local trunk show.

Nick

Hi Danny, not sure why you say zero access to bespoke or MTM. It’s not Saville Row, but there are a fair number of options. See this Sydney Tailors thread: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/the-sydney-tailors-thread.643629/

I recommend Joe Ha at the Finery Company for overcoats.

Danny

Thanks Nick, while I certainly appreciate there are some great tailors there (and my comments above show I’m trying a couple of them) I think any list that includes MJBale and Peter Jackson is, as nicely as possible, ‘clutching at straws’ a little.

I don’t live in Sydney or Melbourne unfortunately, so I have to work around that. I don’t think anyone would argue that Australia doesn’t have the same experienced base of tailors as somewhere like Britain or Italy.

I’m not trying to cause offence to anyone, I just really wanted ‘this’ coat (something that cloth wise can’t be replicated by another tailor, and leaving aside the moral issue I might have with stealing Simon’s and PWVC’s design) and after saving and waiting I’m sad i can’t have it, that’s all.

Don

Hi Danny,

Are you in South Australia? I’m from the country but I live in Adelaide, and have a similarly despondent outlook on our local menswear offerings. There are a few tailors around though.

Danny

Hey Don, I’m in Canberra. Sounds like we’re in the same boat, perhaps we both have fatigue from growing up with Roger David as one of our only options haha!

Daniel

Where does the cream scarf come from?

Martins

I’m a bit curious, last years Donegal felt much lighter than bridge coat despite both being 620g. So does this years Donegal feels same weight? And if Bridge coat is too hot for me in London except couple months in winter, will this be the same?

Why not release yearly “editions”? I’m sure plenty people wanted heavier coat, but also plenty people were happy with the weight? So how about lighter weight next year?

Anonymous

This really is an incredible coat! I really like the additional weight as properly heavy coats seemed to only be available through bespoke or vintage for a while, probably because many modern brands want to save the money and the overall modern trend of lightweight, stretchy clothes. Really glad to see the collaboration with Private White still going and using Irish cloth. I can tell this is a genuine invest piece that will last a life time and beyond. Bravo Simon.

Tamaki

Hi, Simon!
Thanks for the coat, I think I share Danny opinion on the weight because, while I’m in Ireland and the weather is fairly similar to England, I overheat and prefer putting layers so that I can more easily adjust my own body temperature.

On the cloth, I prefer this new one. I think this very dark brownish coat is going to be super versatile, even more than the gray one. I have immediately ordered mine, as I was waiting the whole year for it. I’m a bit concerned about which size fits be best but with your free change returns it really gives me a peace of mind, just wanted to emphasise this is a really good selling point that may not always be mentioned

Nick

Coat ordered and can’t wait to receive it! Could you let me know where in relation to your knee it finishes? I am 5 10 so will probably need to shorten it a bit

FS

Hi Simon,

I’m 194cm and most RTW coats end up looking a bit short as they don’t quite cover the knee. Will this one have the same problem even accounting for the 4cm to be let out?

Anonymous

Thanks Simon. Bought the last one but returned it due to low weight, it felt more of a autumn / spring coat rather than winter. Need to get thinking (due to COVID) if I can justify this one!! Look lovely though

On another note – I see you recently posted on William Crabtree recently. What do they do / are they like / do they cost?

Robin

I’m curious to know why Private White have their own sizing nomenclature ?
Whats wrong with the plane and simple (XS, S, M, L, XL) ?
Just strikes me as a tad pretentious.

circumspice

They might do business in Asia and sell a XXS equivalent as 1?

Martin

Simon,

I have a PW peacoat in size 2. Would that translate in a 2 as well for this one? The peacoat is not specifically intended in being worn over a jacket (set-in sleeves), and I was hoping the donegal coat would fit the bill on that. Just wondering if the raglan sleeves and proportions, etc, make it so that a size 2 will work.

Thank you

Anonymous

On the topic of the one capsule overcoat… should it be navy wool or brown herringbone then if I dress casually (i.e. knitwear and sports jackets at most)?

Anonymous

Very nice coat!

Simon, for the average reader, would you view this as an alternative to the original gray coat (i.e., choose 1) or as an addition/rotation?

In other words, would the average reader, to your mind, find use for both in the same wardrobe? Thanks.

Alessandro

Is size 7 already out of stock?

Al

I myself am in a land (Sicily) where to wear such a coat would be almost unthinkable (maybe some day a year) but I highly admire with it’s weight you are going back to what a winter coat should be.

Carl

Oops! The size 7 is already sold out. This went quickly. Any chance of more pieces?

Jason

noob question..but does 800g mean the coat weighs 800g or cloth is 800gsm? I have some coats to compare to that weigh around 1100-200g in total weight but have no info on gsm.

Anonymous

Shouldn’t it be gsm? Ie per square meter so you don’t have to correct for width if considering against other fabrics that may not be the same width

Richard

Good Morning Simon. Wow. Impressive… Now I know you offer free returns but I’d rather get right first time as I’ve a feeling you may have a bestseller on your hands here. I’m 6ft tall, 41in chest and 32in waist. I take size L in your splendid Oxford button down shirts if that helps also. I’m thinking medium but what would you advise?

Joel

Hi, Simon.

At 186 cm tall, and typically wearing size 48 in tailoring, would you recommend a size 3 or 4? I ask because while I typically wear a 48 in jackets, I also tend to wear size M in sweaters. I am unlikely to wear a jacket underneath the coat.

I was a big fan of last year’s Donegal Coat (but missed out on it), and have been looking forward to this release. I particularly liked the drape and flow of it, which looked almost cape-like. I am a tad concerned that the heavier cloth will take away from this aspect, but in the article you say that it makes it drape and fall even better. This goes against my intuition, but I’ll have to take your word for it.

Overall, bravo. The collar insert is a fantastic touch, as well.

Mark

Just ordered. I have been waiting for this and appreciate the tweaks, particularly the generous inlays. Like many overcoats, it is a style that looks very good worn open which helps mitigate the warmth from the increased weight, which I value for wind resistance (don’t take that the wrong way!) and the better drape. Heavy rain today for the first time this fall and wearing the Permanent Style trench coat, which I have never regretted purchasing.

Haackk

A very cool and rugged looking coat.

I am, however, on the lookout for a similar
coat in a a black and white/ salt and pepper colour similar to your Connolly ‘s overcoat. Any chance your coat will be
made in that colour for next year?

ben

I absolutely love mine from last year. The only minor gripe I had was that the sleeves were narrow, which has been updated now. With the heavier cloth this time around, I wish I could justify owning two of essentially the same piece.
I guess what I’m saying is that if you don’t have one, you should definitely pick one up.

Stephen

Simon, glad to see the coat return this year, and the color is great. I have a question about last years model you might have an idea about. I got a lot of use out of it in the mild winters we have here, but one half of the collar does not always stay up. One side will stay up but the other wants to flop over kind of. Any idea what I might be able to do to ameliorate this? Is there something a tailor can do to adjust it, or maybe can I shape it with some heat and steam?

Rich H

The XXL sold out quickly – out of interest, how many were available?

Alan

Simon, I bought the one last year. Do you think this is different enough in weight and color to justify doubling down? Thanks

Stefan

Hi Simon,

This coat looks great, kudos. Could I offer a suggestion? You’re already out of size 7 and judging by one comment above and adding myself, you might have sold at least a couple of size 2 if you’d ordered them. So – how about explicitly soliciting wait list orders, with payment, *before* sending the order to manufacture?

This is a completely different model, http://weargustin.com are doing it really well with denim and workwear, it seems like a perfect fit for you and maybe even an opportunity to take more chances? As in, hey site, here’s an idea for a garment, how many takers? Some would sell and then get made, other not sell and not get made, none wind up in landfill or languishing inventory?

Just a thought.

(A size 2 grey in the 800 weight would be perfect – maybe next year? 🙂

Noel

Perhaps a slightly simpler suggestion is to announce the product a few days or so before it’s actually available. In that case, one can take measurements to decide on size and take some time to think about the purchase. I find it harder to take the plump inmediately, so I have missed out before on other products (although I was lucky with the waiting list, let’s hope I get lucky this time too). Perhaps this is a niche problem though.

Anonymous

Would you consider offering the dark brown donegal cloth in 16 oz, so readers who don’t exactly fit the current sizing can take it to a tailor? 🙂

Anonymous

That sounds possible, I guess I now figure 18-21 oz may be better

Noel

Hi Simon,

Fantastic coat. I was very close to buying the one last year but alas it was too light for Stockholm. I assume this one should be ok.

I have a few things from private white and they’re all size 3, with the exception of their mac where i went for size 4 so a jacket would fit underneath. How roomy is this coat? Should I size up if I want to wear a jacket or chunky knitwear underneath?

Noel

HI Simon,

Unfortunately size 3 is out of stock.

Before I add myself to the waiting list, I wanted to revisit the sizing choice if you don’t mind. It seems that the donegal coat’s chest width is less than other PVC coats of the same size. I have the reversible valstarino in size 50, which is stated as having a chest width of 55cm. That’s wider than the S size of this coat. Of course there are very different garments, so I’m unsure if it serves as a guide. Based on all of this wouldn’t perhaps a size 4 fit me better?

Noel

Thanks again for taking the time to answer Simon. The closest I have is a DB trench coat from SEH Kelly (55.8 pit to pit) and the PVC Mac (56.6). They’re not quite the same thing, but based on those two, I ought to go for medium I guess. At least when it comes to the chest width.

Rob

This might just be the perfect year for this coat! My formal overcoat isn’t going to get much wear and having something warm and heavy to wrap round while sat outside in the pub, cafe or park feels a good call.

I should also mention my PSxPW trench coat came into its own during our “summer” holiday in Scotland. Never has the full length waterproof been so necessary!

Ant

Aaaggghhh – small (3) also sold out already! Missed last years too – will send an email to be added to the waiting list in case of any returns.

Ant

Hi Simon – great news, got a size 3 direct from PWVC! It arrived today, and….it’s fantastic. Brilliant weight, brilliant colour, very sumptuous esp. with the feel/warmth of the collar popped-up and framing the face and neck. I’ll let Maria know to take me off the waiting list, but if I may – I did want to make one suggestion….

People are evidently taking time and pride in procuring various PS bits, all of which are at the top-end of pricing in their respective segments for RTW. Whilst most of us are likely to have nice hangers (Kirby Allison, etc) – I think it would be fitting for larger items like overcoats to come with a PS branded/styled, thick wooden hanger. The Donegal coat is £950, and comes folded in a box.

I don’t think you need to sell them separately, but, I’d have happily (and ignorantly) paid £1k for the coat with a nice hanger.

It could be really nice to collect 3-4 large PS pieces and have them displayed pride of place in the wardrobe, with some kind of unifying style.

J.E

Hi Simon,

The coat is really looking splendid. Thanks also for the fantastic material you are providing on the blog – my core wardrobe is steadily taking form from your tips.

A couple of questions on the coat, though:
1. Do you have any pictures from the front with the coat made up and the collar worn down?
2. Perhaps I’ve missed it somewhere, but are there any inside pockets?

Cheers,
J.E

Jason

Great to see a version 2.0 albeit I bought last years version and prefer the lighter weight. The fact that it wasn’t too heavy was one of the attractions and I got a longer season out of it.
I won’t be buying the new incarnation but would thoroughly recommend it based on my experience.
On the subject of 2.0s – I could imagine embracing a new incarnation of the PS/PW trench. I absolutely love that coat and had it out today whilst walking the dogs in an absolute downpour. With that and a Loro Piana storm system baseball hat, I emerged as dry as a bone !
It is absolutely perfect for the country but was thinking that a new version in off white, with a couple of design changes (add epaulets, loose exterior breast pocket, change side pockets to side slants and move to a full belt) could make for a more city / evening alternative. What do you think.
Also, although I’m not a huge baseball cap fan – I do find the LP a cut above by way of design and the fact that it is waterproof gives it a real raison d’etre. Have you thought of taking it as an inspiration for a PS project ?

Jay

Am I correct that with suits, the grey and black herringbone from last year works better? Will you offer this cost with the refinements and tweaks in 800g grey and black herringbone?

Anonymous

This cloth is much better suited to the design of the coat than the original, as it is far from a formal overcoat. 800g is very heavy though, even if worn over only lightly layered clothes, except on the very coldest of days.

Alex

It might have been helpful (much appreciated) to include at least one photo of the jacket with the collar down, in its natural position?

Jan

Fantastic coat Simon, congratulations. I bought last year’s version and, unfortunately, living in Hong Kong (I mainly purchased it for trips to Europe and Japan and the like in spring and fall – perfect if you have to combine business and personal affairs in mixed weather with only one suitcase / carry-on) and no travel because of that virus, it’s been hanging in the closet staring at me. But I love it and I’m confident I will be able to get some good use out of it at some point. Personally, I think the grey version is more useful, specifically for that combined business / casual purpose – I would not wear shades of brown to serious business meetings in my line of work (law) and the little flecks of colour, the rough texture of the fabric, the loose fit plus the big collar make it a very OK coat for jeans with brown suede on the feet as well. A very nice alternative to my slightly shorter and tighter coat made of a blue – grey Loro Piana dream tweed

DB

This looks great, Simon. I have last year’s model — which I’ve really enjoyed — but the updates here all seem sensible.

Can I ask about one bit of minutiae? What color socks are you wearing with the cream jeans? It looks like a light brown or taupe?

robert gault

What a beautiful coat. I wish we had colder winters here but even as it is my Austrian Loden coat doesn ‘t get enough wear. Still tempted as it is a stunner.

Nick

Got my coat today! It has definitely exceeded my expectations. Couple of points:
– Cloth is fantastic and the added wait definitely makes it much more useful and also nice to handle. I tried on the previous iteration and the weight was the reason I did not buy it in the end. (Subjective, I know)
– Colour is very, very nice. I was slightly worried about the brown but it’s a lovely dark shade that make it appropriate for city use.
– Having tried on the previous version in the PWVC store I knew I was a size 4, however I am usually size 38 rtw, which is not what the size guide would suggest, so definitely worth checking measurements if you’re about to buy the coat.
-Finally, Simon do you store yours on a hanger or just on a hook when actively wearing it day-to-day?

Overall, thank you for the wonderful product, it has certainly made my day a bit better and will hopefully give me even more joy when the weather gets a bit chillier!

Andy

Mine arrived today (I was on the waitlist).
It’s beautifully made and drapes really well. One thing to point out, is that I think its ‘browner’ than the photos above show (even the second photo from the top).
It’s definitely a brown coat where the photos to me look like a grey coat (maybe it’s my eyes). To me this is a very good thing – it’s a beautiful colour!
It now hangs next to my Bridge Coat. In case it helps, I have both in Large (42″ chest and 6’5″ tall) and the only alteration I might do is to lengthen it slightly.

Mark

While it is premature to plan a Donegal 3.0, or for that matter, a Trench Coat 2.0 (although I understand a second run is in the works), I would like to suggest for consideration that either piece be made up in the future in a darker shade of donkey (warm dark grey or grey-taupe). I think it would go well with casual and formal wear as well as the shades already chosen. The donegal coat would also be versatile in olive.

Iain W

Puts me in mind of Dan Day Lewis’s A&S raglan in the Phantom Thread

Jay Weir

Beautifully executed Simon. The color is not an expected one (blue or grey), but then, can’t take my eyes off the color. It’s special! And, all the great details in the coat itself. If it’s too warm, I’ll just have a cold drink when wearing it!

Paul

My XXL example arrived about an hour ago – it’s a thing of beauty! I can already envisage walking the dogs along the beach in winter, insulated from the elements by this lovely coat… perfect.

I completely missed last year’s iteration – wasn’t aware of PS back then. If the coat does come back in grey again next year I may grab another one.

My only minor issue – which may be me, rather than the coat – is that both this one and the Bridge Coat seem designed with quite long sleeves. The Donegal not so much as my Bridge Coat (which needed the sleeves shortened by just over an inch), but it’s still a tad long in the arm for me. Not something I’ve noticed with other RTW coats, before now – maybe a quirk of the PWVC cut? Or was this intentional to allow a greater range of adjustment? Either way easily correctable, thanks to the very sensible approach of designing to allow easy alterations.

Can’t wait for the cold weather now!

Dave

Is it possible to purchase this now but have you delay in shipping it for a while? I am currently on an extended road trip and don’t have a permanent address, probably until the end of the pandemic.

Fredrik

Very nice indeed. Simon, would you say a few words about from which points the measurements of the garment are taken?

Carl

How would you summarize a ”If you only had 5 overcoats” article? Or maybe 3 or 4. 5 may be too much.

Carl

I am not thinking about clothes for sports and outdoors. More like ”outerwear pieces for fall/winter”. Like one DB navy cashmere overcoat, one navy peacoat, one gray wool raglan coat, one warmer trench coat and so on. I think that it should be seasonal. Ypu can have a navy sport coat in different materials for different seasons. But you dont have a linen DB overcoat in the summer.

Carl

Maybe. I think that a Valstarino is less for winter and more like a smarter alternative to a field jacket or a leather jacket.

Carl

I realize that you already covered this in the coat section of the ”A COMPLETE CAPSULE WARDROBE” article. Sorry!

John

I think 5 overcoats just for autumn/winter is too restrictive. I think most men would find 5 pieces of outerwear that cover all seasons much more useful, and in keeping with the idea of a small capsule wardrobe. For example: pea coat for winter, safari jacket for summer, valstarino for transitional, and two more: perhaps something for a rainy day and another winter option.

Thanks!

Anonymous

agreed that would be helpful! Can you do an article on this Simon?

Thorn

It looks great, and I’m interested but I don’t understand the sizing. I normally take a 42″ chest. What does that equate to? Your size chart doesn’t do a straight conversion to 107cm.
I’m 5’8″. Would the length be right or should it be shortened?

Berrick

Can’t believe size medium sold out already :'(
Will there be any more?

Jan

Dear Simon,
My coat has arrived . It is splendid! As others have commented, it is a dark BROWN coat, with wonderful drape and practical features such as the collar closure. In my view it works for business and puttering around in the countryside. Only for the most formal occasions will I prefer my navy double breasted coat. One suggestion for the future that I also had for the bridge coat: Please include a spare button or two. These wonderful non-polished, two-hole buttons are difficult to come by outside Savile Row.
Cheers and thanks, Jan

Chris

I’m 5ft 8in too… where do you think a coat like this *should* fall? Just below the knee?

Thanks

Chris

I’ve just ordered mine now from the PS link on Private White’s website…

I hesitated a little as Private White’s model photos look much lighter than yours, Simon. I guess because of studio lighting… I’m hoping it has a darker look in most lights and more like your photos; guessing the fabric has a lot of depth a nuance of appearance… Looking forward to being warm for once this winter!

Jonathan

Gorgeous coat! I just received mine and can’t wait for the weather to cool so I can wear mine. The length is perfect, very elegant and practical. I find most coats these days to be too short. This one, due to its length and heft, is sumptuous and dashing. Thank you for making this in a winter weight, too, as I can see wearing this for nearly half the year in Boston!

Ray

What temperature range would you say this coat is ideal for? I ask because in my opinion, the winters in my area have been getting milder and honestly, it does not often get much colder than -10C. So for me, the ideal coat is one that isn’t too heavy such that it could be worn in the fall and early spring, but if you layered up (perhaps wearing a sweater underneath, it would be passable in the winter.

Also, any chance next year will be gray again? I like brown, however my wardrobe has too many brown jackets and I want to mix it up. I also preferred the look of the gray last year to the brown this year.

I would have definitely jumped on immediately if it was a rerun of last year but the changes forced me to think about this a bit more.

Anonymous

Simon, in your opinion, how loose/roomy should this coat fit? Would/could you wear one size up (L) and still be OK?

Anonymous

Thank you. To your mind, what’s the more “natural” fit for the coat? In other words should it be close or loose.

Josh

I had similar thoughts to the above. I purchased a size 5 because I already had a couple of other PWVC pieces in that size. However, my peacoat from them is size 4; I usually take a 40 jacket, but I’ve not bought a new jacket in a while, and I’m not as slim as I once was; my other coats are 50, but they’re all quite tailored, and one is a 52. (You can see where the uncertainty arose.) The coat is certainly roomy, as you say, but I’m pretty sure I’ve got the right size, particularly when comparing it to how it looks on you and the model on the PWVC website. I live in the centre of Manchester, so I could pop into the factory tomorrow and try on a medium for peace of mind. It’s a beautiful coat anyway. I’m really looking forward to wearing it. How great are PWVC! They’ve got a knack for making quintessential versions of classic pieces while being innovative. Permanent Style is outstanding too.

Carl

All sizes are now also available at Private White. I just ordered a size 7.

JB

This coat looks absolutely lovely, all the changes make it sound all the better.

Btw, reading about the cashmere lined pockets reminds me, did you ever get that done on the leather (?) jacket you were trying it on? And if so, how was the results? I’m still very tempted to do it on my stoffa coat..

JB

Found our original thread, ironically on the first donegal coat post. Picked it up there.

Justin

Hi Simon! Might not be the correct place to ask, but is there a return of the PS motor trench planned in the PS shop?

thanks!

Anonymous

Can you please share any details about the upcoming collab? Always hate it when I just bought something else that is similar and thus redundant to your usually better designed version. Thanks

Paddy

When is this releasing Simon?

Paddy

Last question I promise- what colour would it be?

Anonymous

Exciting! I was precisely looking at PW’s waxed twin track jacket. Any idea as to when yours will launch?

Carl

The Donegal Coat has arriwed and its very lovely. Quite roomy with a only a shirt or thin knitwear. Perfect with a sport coat or thick knitwear.

Russ

I’m very pleased with my Donegal coat, which has just arrived. I will take half an inch off the arms length, but that is the only alteration that is needed. One small disappointment, Simon, which you and Private White VC might look at improving, is the hanging loop. All of those who buy this expect to use the coat for many years, and it will often be hung up on hooks in cafés etc. Why go to the trouble of riveting the hanging loop through the coat fabric, yet provide only a relatively thin viscose strip to bear the weight of the coat (it is heavy enough in itself, even before items are put in the pockets). The strip will wear through. It would not have made any real difference to price to have had the hanging loop done with a metal chain, as is often provided on other better quality garments.

Russ

Of course, at home it will, as with all my coat and suit garments, be kept on a decent sized properly shaped wooden hanger. I still think the loop looks inadequate but only time will tell.

Russ

Well if we are both retired by the time it wears through, you’ll know you were right and I was wrong.

Morten

I just received my coat in size 3. The cloth is absolutely lovely, the colour being much closer to Simon’s photos than PW’s. I have one issue with the design however: the cloth in shoulders tend to fold and make a pointy end which makes it look almost like the shoulders are padded. I was hoping for a much more pliable raglan shoulder that would follow the lines of my body instead of making lines of its own. Do you think this will settle with time as the cloth softens? If not, is it anything I can do minimise this pointy shoulder effect, like changing over arm diameter?

Thomas

I just too receipt of mine and discovered exactly the same thing! The effect is more pronounced when I button the top buttons, less when I leave it open. I’d be interested in hearing if anyone have experienced that it is less pronounced over time (probably a bit early to ask for that).

Morten

I have one additional observation, this time about sizing. Both you and PW state the coat to be of regular fit. However, if you compare the sizing to other raglan coats on the market, it leans more towards a slim fit. Take size 3 equaling a British size 38 as an example: chest width of your coat is 53cm pit to pit. Cordings size 38 raglan coat has a chest width of 59,5cm. PW has made a raglan Loro Piana rain coat with a chest width in size 3 of 56.5cm, which they somehow also call a regular fit. Comparing the chest width to Drake’s rtw classic blazer your size 3 Donegal coat will be unlikely to fit a size 38 blazer underneath, considering they have the same chest width pit to pit of 53cm. This underline the importance of the advice you have given many times above: check the measurements carefully before making a purchase. My coat in size 3 is perfect with normal knitwear underneath, but tight in the chest with anything more substantial, like a jacket. Since size 4 is already sold out I won’t be able to exchange for a size up, which may have proven to be too large in shoulders and arm length anyways, but I will consider sending the coat to PW for an adjustment of body circumference. I suspect sizing up may be necessary for many of your buyers.

Nico

Dear Simon,

Do you know if the sleeve width can be increased on the first version of the Donegal coat (which i bought last year)
Thanks for the answer

Andrew Eckhardt

To echo many comments above, it looks like a marvelous coat. After the first version caught my eye a year ago, I was excited to purchase the re-release this fall. However, I do prefer the grey color of last year’s fabric. Here’s hoping a heavy grey fabric makes it into the coat next year. I’ll save up my pennies until then.

Lewis

I’ve been wearing mine solidly since it was received – it’s kept very strong onshore winds at bay on the beach and the torrential rain across Exmoor out. The cashmere pockets are a wonderful touch and I can vouch for the use of the throat latch on the day I forgot my scarf.
I was worried about the 4 being rather too baggy in the body; I have a very similar styled Crombie Balmacaan and this is a far more more tailored and flattering design, perfect on a 40” and a nicer fit than my PWVC peacoat in the same size.
Echoing some of the other comments, I hope the ‘peaks’ in the shoulders soften with time but I could not be happier with it. It feels like a coat I have had for years already.

Martins

When I tried the coat, I too noticed the issue. I’m just curious. Seing as there is a seam on top of a shoulder, raglan shoulder, no padding or canvas, could the shoulder line be altered? At the very least it should be easier than jacket shoulder?
P.s. I cast my vote for post corona return to last years cloth! I like both colours but cloth I liked last year much better!

Lewis Evans

By the way, if I were to have it lengthened by the full 4cm, for no other reason than I could, would there likely be be a visible crease where the coat was originally finished?

Jay

I’m holding out for the next version, hopefully in the same true winter-weight 800g or heavier, but in a more formal grey and black herringbone or navy and grey or black herringbone. Separately, with outdoor seating becoming the norm because of the pandemic, heavier weight cloth and a longer calf-length will probably become more useful. Maybe a cuff tab or cincher might also be helpful when out in the cold for extended periods of time? In the same vein, it would also be interesting to see an iteration of your bridge coat as a calf-length officer’s coat.

Antoine

Dear Simon, first of all, I would like to congratulate you on your fantastic website and your valuable advice in terms of menswear.
Yesterday, I received the lovely PS Donegal Overcoat in size 3/S I ordered a week ago via PWVC. It is a an impressive coat and overall, the fit is quite good, except at the chest where it is a tad tight. Referring to the size guide, I am not quite sure whether I should keep it or exchange it for a size 4/M as there is a rather substantial difference in the chest and waist circumference between the two sizes. Do you thinks going up a size would change the general aspect of the coat? Also, I’m afraid that there will be a huge difference in the shoulder width. I am aware that it is quite difficult for you to express yourself, but, generally speaking, would you advise me to exchange the coat for a size 4/M? Many thanks in advance. Best regards, Antoine

Mike

Hi Simon,

I have 2 questions: 1) When will the dark grey color be available again? 2) Do you know which reputable brands (besides Private White VC) sell Balmacaan raincoats?

Jake

Dear Simon,

My apologies for another sizing question, but I don’t have a coat to use to compare against the measurements provided here and was hoping you could help.

I’m a size 36 chest and wear a 28/44 pant (I’m 5’ 11” and around 140 pounds, if that helps). Based on the other comments, I’m wondering if the 2 might be too small. Would you mind sharing your thoughts?

Ant

Hi Jake

I am quite a similar size to you (5’9″, 67kg, 30 (ish) waist, 37/38 chest) and I have size 3. It’s a little ‘generous’ on me around the chest and upper arms, and I could possibly size down. The sleeve length is about an inch too long for me, which likely means the sleeve length on the size 2 could well be a touch too short for you. The length should be fine though – mine falls just under my knees and would look equally good just over.

I think from Simon’s notes that there is an element of adjustability, and I can wholeheartedly vouch for the coat in terms of quality, colour, style, versatility, and generally loveliness – so definitely worth trying to make it work.

Hope that helps.

Jake

Thanks, Simon and Ant. Very helpful.

Russ

I think for this level of quality the price is a bargain. I’ve been comparing this lovely coat, Simon, with others, and assume you worked with PWVC to keep the price point under £1000 which is very good value indeed. I’ve just had the sleeves professionally shortened on mine and am looking forward to wearing it for many years – in fact it’ll probably outlast me!

Aaron Daniels

Simon, I just wore mine for the first time today and noticed the left side of the collar doesn’t stand as upright – I see looking at the images again the same is true of yours. Is this purely due to the additional weight of an extra button and the throat latch?

Jonathan B

The coat arrived at least three months ago and I’ve been delinquent in telling you how wonderful it is. The length, weight, and drape are near perfect for winter in New York and while I was fearful of brown, the mix with black not only works well in and of itself, but also plays well with my mostly grey wardrobe. My sole design quibble is that I would have preferred deeper outside pockets. This was my first purchase here and I’m now looking forward to seeing what else you may have that I must have. As always,

Russ

As you’re working quite a lot with Private White VC, Simon, it’d be great if you could help with their sizing. It’s all over the place. I’m having to return some lovely garments ordered online, of course, given Covid, in the same size my Donegal tweed coat but which are either too tight or too large. It’s a great Manchester operation but the sizing inconsistency across garments is frustrating.

Kristoffer

Is this same coat as being sold on Private White website? Picking one up if is…great coat, seems more value and details than Magee, ring jacket or cordings (although good options)

Chris

Hi Simon, hope you’re well,

Can I ask, can we expect the raglan overcoat to make a return this year?

Have you considered bringing a charcoal variation back, in this slightly heavier winter weight?

Hoping to finally invest in one this year, and keep the funds aside as such.

Thanks,
Ck

Chris

Fantastic, looking forward to it. Certainly, will make sure to do that.
Thanks Simon

Chris K

Simon,

Just to revisit this only a couple of months later like the true obsessive that I am (not my fault, I blame you for making such nice things) I’m going to get in early with my request that you make this exact same colour, cloth and weight again this year, for those of us that missed last years. The black brings that coolness of tone to the brown and makes this quite possibly the best raglan I’ve ever seen.

Much appreciated as always,
Ck

Jackson

Hey Simon

Just received this coat today. Beautiful piece and I look forward to wearing it throughout winter this year and likely many years to come! One question about sizing however. I got the 54/6 and usually take a 44 in a jacket. It is the perfect length and fits a few layers beneath it too but when fastened, it does restrict movement slightly. For example, if I were to move my elbows in line with my back, there is some strain and tugging on the top two buttons on the chest. Being 6’4 and quite broad, I’m well used to having this issue with pretty much every RTW shirt, blazer or coat I try on in my size. Is this a sign that it’s ultimately too small or is some movement restriction to be expected with any overcoat? A 56/7, I’m sure, would be too big. Would an alteration on the chest circumference – you write that there is 4cm in it – account for something like that do you think?
Sorry for such a pedantic question, but given the price I just wanted to make sure I’ve got the right size for me!

Many thanks

Jackson

Jackson

Great! Thanks a lot, Simon.