Introducing: The brown English Tweed
This might be my favourite material we’ve ever designed. A brown version of the English Tweed fabric first launched a couple of years ago, it’s dark and subtle, with great depths in the mix of brown and black, plus natural flecks of cream and biscuit that add varied texture.
The yarn is still the natural colours of the sheep - it’s undyed wool, so those are the browns and blacks of the animal, without any bleach or colouring. This must be one of the reasons it looks so natural, and the material itself has a similarly organic feel of substance and pliability - it’s not scratchy, but has that feel of a natural fleece.
The English Tweed was designed to be big and enveloping - something to wrap yourself up in during colder months - and so you get a lot of that wool to fasten round the body, with the double-breasted front buttoning all the way up to the chin.
The fit is generous but can be cinched against the cold, and the buttoning is low and slouchy. While there are many materials we could use for something like the Donegal overcoat, the English Tweed really suits this type more than any other.
The new brown version is available on the PS Shop now.
Apart from the material, the coat is exactly the same as the first one, introduced in 2023. Compared to that version, this brown English Tweed has the advantage that it sits alongside a grey, navy or indeed camel Donegal coat, offering an nice alternative colour, unlike the grey first version.
But the design is the same: a belt that fastens by doubling back on itself; a waist button on the hip and then two rows all the way up; a pleat in the back that allows freedom of movement without letting in any cold blasts of air.
The two hip pockets are lined with cashmere, but also have a slit that allows access to larger ones on the inside of the coat. These so-called ‘through’ pockets enable you to access something larger like a book or a pair of gloves without having to unbutton the coat.
And the slanted pockets on the chest do the same thing - even with the coat buttoned all the way up, you can access a slanted pocket tucked just behind the lapel, and so get to your phone or wallet.
As is often the case with these coats, we’ve focused in today’s article on what’s different about the new version - it’s colour and texture. If you’re unfamiliar with the design and would like to see things like all the ways it buttons up, have a look at the original launch article here.
That article also shows the through-pockets, and has more angles on the silhouette. Today is more about the vibe.
Fortunately, when we photographed this coat it wasn’t too hot, and I was able to stroll around Greenwich and the park, wrapping and buttoning myself up. It reminded me of the pleasure of walking in a big coat: pushing it behind you when the cold doesn’t require anything more, stuffing the pockets with everything you need for the day.
In these images I’ve worn the coat with just one outfit - a Rubato lambswool crewneck, a PS undershirt, black 501s, Edward Green boots and a Trunk scarf: a cold-colour smart-casual look.
But the English Tweed works equally well with tailoring, as shown in that launch piece with a cord suit, a shirt and a knit tie. I’ve tried wearing the new colour with grey and dark-navy suits and it’s very nice, as well as a variety of jackets. Most menswear colours are good - even olive, if it’s dark.
The cloth was woven by Marling & Evans in Huddersfield and made by Private White in Manchester, so along with the English wool it’s a very locally sourced coat. The horn buttons are Italian, but then these particular dusty, matte ones are our favourite and a bit of a signature. They also go particularly nicely with the dark brown.
The English Tweed coat is available on the PS Shop now.
Details:
- Low-slung, slouchy double-breasted raglan coat
- Made from undyed 800g English wool, woven in Huddersfield by Marling & Evans
- Belt with leather buckle, unholed to double back on itself
- Two-hole matte horn buttons
- Cashmere-lined hip pockets, both with through pockets to larger pockets inside
- Two in-breast slanted pockets
- Manufactured by Private White VC in Manchester
Fit:
- A generous body fit and length, designed to be cinched for warmth
- In the pictures Simon wears a Medium (4)
- He wears a size 40 (50 European) suit jacket and is six feet tall (183cm)
- Fits the same size as other Private White-made outerwear (apart from the Bridge Coat)
- If in doubt, compare measurements to a coat you already own, bearing in mind the fit is meant to be generous. Don’t worry if it looks or feels a little big
- Chest is measured 2.5cm below underarm; waist at 47cm down centre back; length from bottom of collar at the back, to hem
Alterations:
The English Tweed overcoat is made to be easy to alter.
- Cut a little longer than most modern overcoats, both to be more practical and flattering
- But can easily be shortened by a tailor - a good 10cm without interrupting the balance or making the back pleat look too short
- Can also be lengthened slightly if needed, by around 4cm. Inlay is left for that purpose
- The sleeves can also be lengthened by around 3cm, and they can be shortened. Shortening by 2cm would be easy - more than that would require the wrist strap to be moved, but that is not a big job for a tailor
- The body can also be narrowed, but this isn't necessarily recommended, as the style is supposed to be roomy. We wouldn’t suggest taking more than an inch on each side (still four inches in circumference). It can also be let out around 3cm on either side
Size chart:
| X-Small/2 | Small/3 | Medium/4 | Large/5 | X-Large/6 | XX-Large/7 | |
| Chest | 52cm | 54.5 | 58 | 61.5 | 65 | 68.5 |
| Waist | 53 | 55 | 59 | 62.5 | 66 | 69.5 |
| Bottom hem | 60 | 62.5 | 66 | 69.5 | 73 | 76.5 |
| Length | 115.5 | 116 | 117 | 118 | 119 | 120 |
| Sleeve | 82 | 83 | 84.5 | 86 | 87.5 | 89 |
| Cuff (width) | 16.8 | 17.1 | 17.5 | 17.9 | 18.3 | 18.7 |
Hello Simon,
Beautiful coat. Can I ask the differences between this fabric and the brown raglan you released years ago? I.e. darker, less donegal etc.
Can I also ask is that the ecru or fawn crewneck from Rubato?
You’re right, those two fabrics have a fair bit in common in terms of colouring, but the feel is rather different – the yarn is thicker, which gives it a spongier texture, and means the colours are more pronounced. It also makes the material thicker but less dense. It’s designed to be warm and cosy, whereas that old brown was dense and firm, designed more for how it draped, given the straight design of the donegal
Thank you for the reply!
Can I also ask if the Rubato crewneck is the Fawn color or the old Ecru colorway?
Oh sorry, it’s the fawn
A beautiful fabric and the scarf ties it all together wonderfully. Those little accessories really do make a difference. I am furnishing my house at the moment and the principles are very similar to menswear – combining colors, textures, and small details that bring everything together. It’s not about one specific item, but everything working as one.
I have a very practical question. I have the PS Donegal and I was wondering what you usually do for these long coats when you sit down on the tube, on a bench, in a pub etc; do you sweep the coat to the side so you don’t sit on it, or you just sit on it? Apologies for the strange side question!
There have been far stranger on PS! I just sit on it. You can sweep it underneath yourself if you want as you sit down, but i don’t tend to bother
In the same vein, what about in a café or restaurant without coat hooks? I have the brown Donegal and my other coats are shorter so hanging them on the back of a chair isn’t the end of the world, but I tend to find my Donegal ends up having the end sprawl across the floor somewhat more. I know it’s a hardy material but I don’t like people stepping on it. If there’s a spare chair I use that but not always an option.
And perhaps more importantly how do we convince places to bring back coat hooks??
Ha! I feel like a ruthless pamphlet campaign is probably the best way forward
Not much you can do there except fold over a chair, as you say, or ask to hang it up. Restaurants often have hooks if you ask.
This feels like one of those things where people sacrifice a lot in joy for a little bit in convenience. It’s never worth it
Is that cloth available by the meter anywhere? In case I’d like to get a sport coat made?
No it’s not, these are all cloths we design and commission ourselves
OK. Little heavy for a sport coat anyway?
Yes I’d say so
I saw this at the pop-up last week, I was gonna ask if it’s a new colour but second-guessed myself haha. Great looking piece Simon!
Cheers Kev
Simply fantastic! Are there any shots with the collar down?
Thanks!
No, but it’s not really how the coat looks best so we don’t tend to include them. There are far more shots of the how the collar, lapels and silhouette work on last year’s post here by the way
Brilliant! If budget eventually allows, this might be a perfect 2 pair duo along with the original english tweed overcoat.
Very versatile coats both are!
Thanks Edwin, sounds like a good combo, yes
Are you Yoda?
Congratulations on the launch of the new item.
I am wondering – this cloth is a touch lighter (760g) than the grey colorway (800g), no? Otherwise is it a similar spongy feel?
Lastly – how would you compare this cloth feel to the similar looking old dark brown for the donegal coat?
Thanks in advance.
Cheers 🥂
RW
Thanks a lot.
That’s a typo, should be 800g, I’ll change it now. Yes, the same spongey feel.
See comment above on the last question
Hi,
I have tried some Private White pieces and found them rather stiff which might be because of the construction and interlining. Could you say something about the construction and feel of this coat for PS?
It’s certainly not stiff Pietro, it’s spongey and soft. There’s minimal interlining and you wouldn’t feel anything like that under a material like this.
Bear in mind that all these designs are made to our specifications, they don’t necessarily have things in common with the rest of the Private White range, which we’re not involved with. Lots of things, eg our dusty two-hole horn buttons, are just on our products
What a beautiful and unique coat: a true statement piece. I’m not sure it would work on me but it’s what I look for in tailoring, that item that doesn’t just possess personality on its own but allows me to express my own through it.
Nicely put Paul, and thank you
As a Greenwich resident, I thought those views looked familiar! Beautiful coat Simon
Cheers Steve, lovely place to shoot
Would the material work for the wool walker? I would love some kind of tweed in that style.
No, it would be too thick for the double layers on the wool walker
Thank you.
Go on then, the boring but obvious question: if you could only have one of the two colours which would you choose? Or to put it another way, which might be more versatile?
I’d have the brown, but that’s largely because I have the mid-grey Donegal coat and don’t have a dark-brown one of those. The two together – dark brown and grey – are an excellent versatile pair.
By the way, we only have four left of the grey E Tweed, and most of those are in the process of being shipped to NY for the pop-up there. So if you do want that colour, best to do it soon. (If you’re unsure on stock given the pop-up, feel free to drop Lucas a line on the support email)
Thanks Simon. Do you think the grey could be worn with a smarter worsted suit? Would it look conspicuously a bit ‘high/low’? With separate sports jacket/flannels I guess clearly an easy combo.
I wouldn’t say it would look conspicuously like that, no. It would look like you needed a chunkier coat for the weather, but that’s about it
Sadly, I think this is too much coat for the vertically challenged flaneur but as a proud supporter of the PS Donegal V1, I would love to see you incorporate this cloth into that style. Particularly as you have widened the sleeves and upped the weight since I bought mine. Any chance of this happening?
Nice to hear how much you’re still enjoying it David. No, as per comments above, this cloth wouldn’t work as well with the Donegal cut, as that is better with a denser material that hangs straighter
Will you be stocking the Ecru version of the Rider’s Raincoat that Drakes put out this year?
No, that’s not really a rider’s raincoat (you’ll note the name has been changed, that was a mistake)
Beautiful!!
Great coat. With the natural colors of the wool preserved, won’t this cause potential consistency issues with the color? Is there much variation to begin with?
Not really Antoine – we can see several of them hanging up whenever we do the pop-up, and they all look the same colour. The variation you get is more in the individual yarns, which really adds to the character of the coat
Hey Simon, any chance this will be on display for trying on at the New York pop-up next week? Would love to try on some different sizes before purchasing. Thank you in advance
Yes it absolutely will be Joe! Everything that’s in stock is taken to the pop-up (very expensive to do these days, with the new tariffs, but worth it!)
See you there
Simon, in a previous post, you mentioned you’d prefer the rubato knit, whether it be the v neck or crew, to be a fraction longer ideally. In the last shot it looks plenty long enough. Are you wearing a size M or L?
I’m wearing an M here. They’ve lengthened them slightly over the years, but I’d still ideally have an extra cm or two
I have to admit, I’m really enjoying the way Simons style is evolving. I’m still waiting for the day that the long sleeved polo shirt makes its return, and the chinos replace the jeans… I know it’s only a matter of time before it all comes full circle.
But, this is a very nice cloth for a topcoat and it makes a lot of sense styled the way Simon puts it with the scarf and white/cream under layers. Well done, bravo!
Thanks a lot. You know the long-sleeved polo is still on the shop right? I still wear it too, though you’re right less as a shirt alternative and more as a summer piece
Very nice Simon and team. It’s too similar to my Donegal – the first one in dark grey – so I am waiting for the light / mid grey one to be restocked in medium. I’ve been on the waiting list for a while – do you expect those to come in before the winter really kicks off in Europe?
Hey Jan,
Yes absolutely, they should be here next week.
The suspense is killing me!
Beautiful overcoat. Is there a brick and mortar facility to try it? If so, during what hours? Also, I’m about 173 cm and would take a S3. Do you think it would have to be shortened? Thank you.
Hey,
Yes at the moment there is – we do pop-ups in London and New York, and right now the coats are in William Crabtree, the menswear shop in Marylebone. They’re there for the month of October, and their hours are 10:30 to 6:30.
Whether you’d want it shortened is a matter of personal style I think. I like the longer length, but the coat is made to be able to be shortened and lengthened easily.
I have one of the original coats. It’s a joy to wear. I’m genuinely happy it’s getting colder in the UK now so I can wear it again. It’s the item of clothing I own that most reliably garners complements (including by people I’d not expect to take an interested in clothes). The most bizzare time being when I was when I was standing in the corner of the ticket hall of Waterloo Underground station checking my phone during rush hour when man approached me to ask where my coat was from. If you’re a Londoner you’ll know quite how unusual that was!
Amazing! Thanks Sam
Simon,
Just curious why you stop one size short of the full size run, with only size 8 left out?
-David
Hey David,
Well it’s not necessarily the full size run, we could do 1 or 9 if we wanted. But we don’t sell much of even the 7, so it wouldn’t make sense to do the 8 as well really
Hello Simon,
Great looking coat ! Would you still use a Medium if you were wearing this over a suit or would you need to size up?
I’d still use a medium
“This might be my favourite material we’ve ever designed”. When I opened this post, I just immediately thought: what a beautiful material.
Lovely to hear that came across Diego – it’s exactly how I feel!
Alas, the color I’ve been waiting years for in this style, but now I live in too warm of a climate to put it to use. Global warming is a great offense to my sartorial inclinations.
Interestingly, in the photos for your grey version, you show mixing it up with a few more casual items like jeans, sweatshirt, baseball cap, but might this equally be as adept to dressing down?
Yes I think so. You might go for different colours in those things – eg black jeans, but I’d still wear all the same categories
Robbie , tu per me sei un fenomeno , e non dico altro , ciao buona serata
Beautiful coat! But while brown is popular (I think it’s the most popular) men’s color in the UK, blues and greys tend to dominate in the US.
Would you not buy a brown coat on that basis David? Seems a little limiting to only ever have two overcoat colours.
I’m not sure brown is the most popular in the UK, certainly not in cities. It’s probably navy and black if we’re talking about all coats
The coat looks amazing Simon… it’s got that Withnail & I vibe
Beautiful. Not the first time this Southern Californian wishes he lived in a region with cold winters and had the opportunity to wear a coat like this without getting on an airplane.
Ditto. Moving back to SoCal from very cold climates, my lovely coats have mostly just sat in my closet. It’s terrible, I frequently miss the elegance and comfort of a nice coat! But it’s so dang hot. And even with travel, I always travel light, as I don’t care to add check in bags just for large coats and even sweaters—they up almost the whole bag.
Hi Simon,
Beautiful coat.
I was really eyeing the grey versions from last years, but didn’t manage to gather the funds at the time. I really liked its colour and shape, as it seemed really versatile. Cosy and dressy, casual and smart at the same time. That seemed really important, because it would have been my first coat, and I wouldn’t be able to buy a second one before some time.
My questions are : do you think this brown version covers as much ground as the grey ?
Is the grey option definitively gone, or can we still hope you’ll bring it back in the following years ?
Thanks for your work and taking the time to answer us.
Hey Henry,
Yes it is definitely gone. I do think the brown covers the same as the grey, yes. Though if you specifically like the grey colour, the Donegal coat is worth considering as well
Unfortunately, I don’t like the color at all…but love the coat.
It’s too dark, we don’t clearly see the beauty of the yarn compared to the previous one.
I would rather like a cream/beige color or a beige/brown or even cream/brown.
I hope you’ll make a lighter declination in the future
I have last year’s version of this coat, and it is without doubt my favourite item of clothing ever. Even though it’s RTW. It’s just heavy, and soft, and cosy and utterly comforting. Like being wrapped in a big soft tweedy blanket. I’m waiting impatiently for the colder days so it can come out again. One question, though. How is it likely to cope in rain? I avoided exposing it to much in the way of rain last year. On the one hand, tweed can be pretty good in rain. On the other, this is so heavy to start with, the thought of it taking on a lot of water really doesn’t bear thinking about….
Ha! True.
I think it’s like most wool.overcoats Martin – I wouldn’t deliberately go out in the rain in it, but some rain is fine. A lot of it will stay on the surface because of the hairiness. Also obviously fine with an umbrella etc
Hi Simon,
this is a stunning and the fabric looks absolutely beautiful.
I am also interested in the scarf yoiu are wearing with the coat. May I ask where it is from?
Kind regards
Michael
Hey Michael,
It’s an old one from Trunk, not sold anymore unfortunately.
Hey Simon,
I see you often design your own fabrics for products like this I assume in collaboration with mills and/or weavers. Do you know if this is something an individual could request or is this generally reserved for higher production volumes? I ask because I often struggle to find cloths that are as close to what I want.
It requires higher volumes to be economical for the mill unfortunately. At least one piece, which is 60m, and even then usually only if they’re an ongoing customer
A proper-length overcoat. Well done.
Weird compliment, but thanks for existing. Seriously.
Hi Simon,
Lovely coat. Which coat would be better to wear with a navy or charcoal grey suit? This or the cream version, or even the cream Donegal?
Many thanks,
James
They’d both work well with both James, I have and do wear them both with those. I think the choice is a more personal one probably
Hello Simon,
What an amazing coat, that colour just pops.
I know it has been mentioned that it is similar to the Brown Raglan – but less dense, and thicker. Are you looking at re-releasing he brown raglan again or something similar? I run hot, and though I would love this coat, I am not sure I will be able to wear this as often as i would want. I just love that colour.
Hey Alexander, no we’re not
I’m not sure if it was intentional (kudos if it was), but the way in which the very top button hole’s gradient and position aligns perfectly with the herringbone’s darker twill line is beautiful.
I wonder if the Donegal flecks make this harder to wear with tailoring; that’s my biggest concern with it. If so that makes it less versatile.
I wouldn’t say so Lucien. It’s not a very smart coat, but that’s as much due to the thicker, spongier material
Hi Simon,
I’ve long admired your work and the measured way you write about clothing — particularly how you show that good pieces gain meaning as they’re worn and lived in.
This new overcoat really stood out to me. I’m 22 and tend to dress quite simply, mostly in greys and blacks, but I’ve always valued clothes with quiet character and longevity. I wonder if it might appear a touch too formal for everyday use at my age. I keep a small wardrobe, so this would likely become my main coat.
Do you think this overcoat could sit naturally within a simple, everyday wardrobe, or would the light grey Donegal overcoat make for a more versatile and relaxed option?
Many thanks,
Elio
I think the light grey Donegal probably. This coat is very special, but not quite so easy if it’s the only coat you have. It could still be great, but given I haven’t met you, I’m erring on the side of safety very much
Could you tell me what you mean by ‘it’s not quite so easy if it’s the only coat you have’? I’m not completely sure I follow.
I mean that if you only have one good coat, versatility is probably more important, and the grey donegal is the more versatile coat
Dear Simon,
I must admit I’m a little puzzled, as I had assumed the brown tweed coat would be the most versatile option.
I usually wear light-coloured trousers (off-white or light grey) or navy suits – never jeans – so I would have thought the brown tweed would pair rather well with those, wouldn’t it?
In terms of colour, I find the grey herringbone Donegal absolutely beautiful. However, I’m somewhat unsure about its warmth. I owned the first Donegal coat, which turned out to be far too thin and cold for me. I also have your Bridge Coat, which keeps me perfectly warm (I live near the German–Dutch border).
Do you think I’d be well served with the tweed in terms of both versatility and warmth, or would you recommend trying the new Donegal as well?
Kind regards,
Raphael
Given those things, I think you would be well-served by the brown tweed, yes
Lovely coat Simon. Regarding the flattering below knee coat length, is it proportional to height, or does it depend on body proportions?
For example, if I’m the same height as you but have longer or shorter legs, would the coat length that looks best change?
It is a little proportional to height, yes. I wouldn’t ever go above the knee, but there is probably 5-6cm there from the knee down that you can play with, and I’d err shorter the shorter you are.
Longer or shorter legs relative to height doesn’t make as much difference with a coat (more with trousers)
If I may ask another shoe related question – are these the black Galway EG boots Simon?
Yes
Thanks again
Gorgeous fabric. I love the light flecks.
Hi Simon!
Thank you for presenting this wonderful long coat. For Orthodox Jewish sabbath observers in colder climates, long cold walks in formal dress are common, and the readily available coats keep getting shorter and shorter. Can’t overstate how exciting this is.
Can you please help me size correctly?
I’m 175cm/5ft 9in, 160lbs/72.5kg.
I wear a 38 jacket off the rack if its not overly slim cut
I plan to wear the coat over a suit or heavy sweater
I want it to hit as far below the knee as reasonable.
Size 3 or size 4?
Thanks!!!
Hey Jacob,
I’d say probably a 3 in that case, though if you can compare some of the measurements to a coat you already own, that should help confirm it
I love the coat, but the only detail that feels a little cheap to me is the buckle. Is it the same on this iteration?
Yes the buckle is the same – what gives that impression to you David? It’s a real leather one, unlike many
I would say it’s the look of the leather, which I thought was PU. Good to know it’s actual leather, though I might have gone for a plain brass buckle instead.
For some reason this one below looks better to me: less plasticky and cleaner stitching and edge work. I’m nitpicking here of course, and as I said you designed a beautiful coat.
Thanks David, and don’t worry it’s all useful feedback. For me brass wouldn’t have worked – a little heavy and shiny, it would have stood out too much
For some reason the image I posted isn’t showing up. Let me try again (and in case it still doesn’t work, here’s the link)
I agree that brass would look a bit too shiny when new, but with a bit of patina, I’m pretty sure it would look great on both the gray and the brown iterations.
Thanks David. Yes it would definitely be better with a patina, but still I like the matte of the leather a little better personally
Hi Simon,
Love the brown, my size is already sold out.
Will you be restocking this next year?
Yes we probably will
With next year, are you referring to Q4 2026, or (hopefully) early 2026 so it’s still ready to use this winter season?
Q4 I’m afraid
Hey Simon, just checking if plans for a restock are confirmed for next winter?
Thanks
They won’t be for a few months I’m afraid Noah
Simon, I realize the M&E undyed cloths you have used for these English Tweed coats are not available to the general consumer, but M&E also makes undyed overcoatings that can be sourced more easily. Do you think these overcoatings would be good for non-raglan styles (like a polo coat)? The fabrics look nice, but they seem less dense than many other overcoatings I have handled and I am wondering how well they would work for tailoring that is supposed to have a bit more shape. Thanks in advance.
I think they might struggle a bit to be honest, I think you’re feeling their is correct
Hi Simon. Looking to source the buttons on this coat for a coat of my own – I think they’re wonderful. As far as I can tell, they seem to be colour 8 brown from Bernstein and Banleys. Have I got this right?
They’re not actually from a supplier that does B2C like that Stuart, but yes that B&B button is very close
Hi Simon, I don’t know if this wildly outside of the scope of what you can offer, but I was wondering if this gets restocked if there’s any chance a single breasted version could be offered, maybe even on an MTO basis? I totally agree with you that the nature of the fabric lends itself more to a DB coat, however being rather small I get completely lost in all the material – the normal PS overcoat in XS only just fits me after some alterations. I love the material, it really is beautiful, but as it’s not on sale to the public I thought I’d ask
Thanks Daniel, but I don’t really think the style would work that well as an SB, sorry. There are a lot of very deliberate design decisions in there!