Introducing: The Court Jacket

Wednesday, October 23rd 2024
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*Care update: The Court Jacket can be wiped down on the outside to deal with any dirt, dust etc. It can also be hand-washed to deal with any perspiration over time. Hand wash in warm water and hang to dry. 

For the new collaboration this Autumn, I wanted to design something that would suit the PS audience but be sportier - for taking the kids to the park at the weekend, rather than to town during the week. 

The inspiration came when I found an old nylon popover - bright red, emblazoned with ‘Coach Pete’ and a local basketball team - in a local vintage shop. The shape and style were great, but it was obviously a cheap piece and let down by the materials. 

So we reimagined it in better, more classic fabrics and added a load of functional details. 

The outer shell is Ventile, the British-military cotton material that’s highly water-resistant and much nicer than synthetics in feel (softer) and sound (no rustling). We then taped the seams on the inside too. 

Functionally we added a full zip in one side seam, a hidden key pocket in the other side, an articulated hood with a flip-back peak, and a mobile-phone holder inside the kangaroo pocket.

They add up into something that’s much more practical that a traditional sports shell - a jacket that's fit for modern life.

The cut of the Court Jacket is roomy, the ribbing at the bottom holding it tight and then allowing room above to move and layer up. It’s nice over a T-shirt, but I also wear it over a roll neck in colder weather.

We originally put a zip in the side seam in order to make the jacket easier to get on and off. But I’ve since found it’s practical in another way: if you get too hot, unzipping the side allows air in and makes it much cooler. It’s also a nice, different look, the jacket dropping straight down rather than sitting on the waist (first image below). 

The zip on the other side, meanwhile, opens into a small pocket that’s big enough for a cardholder or a set of keys (second image). And the big pocket on the front has a patch inside that fits a mobile phone, which stops the phone weighing on the pocket as well as separating it from your hands. 

It was really fun pulling in all these little details from other sportswear. The hidden pocket came from a running jacket of mine, while the patch idea was from a hiking jacket. 

We went through dozens of other rain jackets to find the hood we liked most. 

I wanted it articulated, set in three panels to fit around the head. But it was hard to agree what shape of peak worked best. Eventually we found a solution that encompassed both a smaller and a deeper hood: the peak is cut and reinforced to enable it to be kept forward (completely sheltering the face) or folded back (allowing a wider field of vision). 

The lining is a lovely lightweight jersey. This is what the original coach’s jacket had and it was really cosy, but we’ve upped the quality considerably. It gives the jacket the feeling of a sweatshirt, but not so heavy that you can’t wear it over thicker knitwear. 

The overall result is a piece that feels like elevated sportswear, but without becoming the uber-luxe stealth-wealth that's so common today. It's practical, everyday and has that easy, playful air of original Ivy clothing.

We went back to my Oxford college - Trinity - for the shoot because I wanted to capture some of that collegiate feel. Although clearly sportswear, the jacket looks good with things like chinos and loafers, mixing things together in the same manner as those Ivy students. 

As a result I wear it with jeans and boots or trainers, but also smarter things. In the first image below I’m wearing it with Rubato chinos, sports socks and Alden loafers. But the footwear could just as easily be boots - chukka, desert or hiking - in colder months. 

With brown suede boots I’ve even worn it with flannels, wearing a navy crewneck and watch cap on top. The cotton Ventile and the navy colour make it smart enough.

Yet at the other end of the spectrum, it's something I wear with shorts and trainers to go to the gym. 

I think that’s what makes me particularly excited about this new collaboration - it’s clearly a different category to the other pieces of outerwear, but I feel it compliments them rather than replacing them.

The Court jacket has been made by Private White VC in Manchester, and it retains their signature copper hardware on the back of the neck, though we preferred gun-metal hardware on the rest of the jacket. 

The jacket costs £540 plus VAT, and is available on the PS Shop

In terms of sizing, I am wearing a Medium/4 and that’s a solid size for me - I wouldn’t go up or down. (For those that don’t know, I’m six foot tall with a 39-inch chest.) 

If you were between sizes, you could size down as the body is quite roomy, but I would make sure the length still works on you - perhaps checking against a short jacket you already have. The dimensions are:

XSmall/2 Small/3 Medium/4 Large/5 XLarge/6 XXLarge/7
Chest 61cm 63.5 67 70.5 74 77.5
Shoulders 50.5 52 53.5 55 57 58.5
Hem 35 37.5 41 44.5 48 51.5
Sleeve 65 65.5 66.5 67.5 68.5 69.5
Length 65 65.5 66.5 67.5 68.5 69.5

Product summary:

  • A half-zip, highly water-resistant popover 
  • Made with British cotton Ventile, and taped seams
  • Lined with a lightweight grey jersey 
  • Full zip in the left-hand side seam, to make it easier to get on/off and enable ventilation
  • Hidden pocket in the right-hand side seam, for keys or cardholder
  • Patch pocket inside the front, handwarmer pocket, to carry a mobile
  • Articulated hood with peak that can be worn forward or back, and cinch
  • Made in Manchester, England by Private White VC
  • Care: wipe down the exterior to deal with dirt etc, hand wash on the inside if needed
  • Cost, £540 plus taxes. Available on the PS Shop

Other clothes shown:

  • Vintage seventies 501 jeans
  • Second-hand Vans Authentic shoes
  • PS cashmere watch cap
  • Bennett Winch commuter bag
  • Vintage cap
  • Rubato chinos
  • Alden cordovan tassel loafers

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CW

Excited to see this out finally! The dimensions on length and sleeve seem funny (in this page and also the product page) – are they correct? Should I follow the usual PWVC sizing?

I’ve come across different ventile jackets, some are machine washable and some are not – could you give some laundry advice for this one please? Thank you.

Benjamin London

I love the navy ventile trench coat from you that I have and wear it all the time. Ventile is a fantastic material. But I agree it’s a problem with cleaning – I wear mine with the collar up and the top of the collar is stained now. Private White do indeed advise not to dry clean.
Probably should not have bought a jeep coat from them with the same warning…
Not sure what else to do. Presumably not a problem with the Coach Jacket as it doesn’t have taped seams?
Otherwise great job on the design of the Coach Jacket, definitely does fill a gap – I have an unlined Ventile shell pullover with a great hood from Hebtroco, so this is great when more padding is needed.

Edwin

Hi Benjamin,

I had the same issue with my olive trench coat, might I advise some luke warm / hot water and just a little bit of detergent (not to agressive) on the location. It has worked for me after I wore mine with a t shirt in the spring.

Edwin

Simon, a quick question. Do you know why this can be dry-cleaned and why the motor trench coat can’t be dry-cleaned? I asked Private White VC in the past but never gave me a straight answer. Could it be the coating? Cheers!

Edwin

Cheers!

richard

Well I didn’t expect that!

Looks great but could you let me know the washing/care instructions? I have the PW ventile mac and its a nightmare to clean. That whole ‘wipe clean with damp cloth’ simply doesn’t work for me. Thank you.

Stein

An excellent addition to casual wear. Well done, old sport!

By the way, do you disdain synthetic material in outerwear?

Edwin

Damn Simon, I didn’t expect that!

Cool!

Max

Very nice!

John

Great looking piece, Simon! A few technical questions about the design if you don’t mind: is there a reason you went with a ribbed knit hem rather than a drawstring other than style? I would have thought a drawstring would have been more versatile and practical (leaving it loose would allow the jacket to hang straight without having to open the side zip but could still be cinched for that higher waist look; tighter hems have a tendency to ride up when you raise your arms). Did you consider a 2 way side zipper so you could ventilate under the arm without having to leave the hem open? With the Ventile and taped seams, I imagine the jacket isn’t that breathable. Do you find the cotton jersey liner absorbs and retains moisture from perspiration (understanding this isn’t a jacket for strenuous activity)? Did you consider something like a Merino wool jersey knit, which still has a soft hand but is more hydrophobic? Does the lining extend down the sleeves or is it just in the body?

Thanks!

Miklos

I was so excited when trying this on in New York last week, it’s such a cool, versatile piece I didn’t know I needed!

Christian

Interesting release, looks cool!
Personally, I think I’m not a big fan of the half zip though, especially in combination with the side zip. A full-zip is easier to get on an off and you can just leave it open to let the air in. But I guess you wanted to get the special shape with the kangaroo pocket so that it resembles a hooded sweater in the lower half?

Ben

Different subject altogether, I’m considering purchasing a bespoke linen suit. Does a linen suit benefit from the drape style as per Anderson and Sheppard or the more traditional English/military style of Huntsman, Dege and Skinner or is it simply about my own shape which is slight/medium build and height?

Joshua

I wanted to inform that a couple of questions of mine are not getting posted in the casual chic page. I asked the same question twice therefore as i thought there might be a glitch but then neither of it got published since the last two days. Could you please look into it once?

Harry

Looks great, Simon! If the collaboration works out, can you see yourself trying other colours like the Bryceland’s smocks (or the red of the inspiration piece) in the future?

Espen Elkjaer

It is much dicussion in social media on proporsjon in mens wear. The idea is to avoid dividing the body in 50/50, but rather divide in 1/3 parts. This jacket nails it perfectly with an upper 1/3 and a lover 2/3. Best Espen in Norway.

RTK

Is the gray jersey lining 100% cotton?

Per Bjarne Ravnaa

Very interesting piece wich looks good on you! I am sorely tempted to order one, but the dimensions make me hang back a little. Isn’t 70,5 cm across the chest in size L a little much? (I realize this goes with the bluoson style, but the reversible bomber have 62 cm in the same size?) Will there not be issues with extra fabric folding under the arms? Have to admit though, it does seem fine in the pictures.

Mk

I have no intention to criticize about your product but how is this type of clothing considered stylish? If you’re making and selling it, I assume it’s part of classic menswear but I don’t completely understand how to interpret its style. Maybe I lack knowledge of the background or history of the product?

Chris

“I assume it’s part of classic menswear”. Worth referring to Simon’s article on the paradigms of casual clothing. Really nice to have a non synthetic option. I have my eye on other items in the ps shop ahead of this, but maybe a future purchase. Well done with the launch and good luck!

RKM

I for one would like to see some more in-depth pieces about vintage sportswear! It is in line with a lot of the coverage that you do nowadays.
Also, to me, this smock is probably one of the best PS designs so far. So functional and stylish.

Alexander

I am not surprised and expected PS outerwear like this since that article from last year: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023/01/experimenting-with-the-smock-or-anorak.html
I really like it that PS is continuing to cover casual styles. I enjoy transmitting the principles of style, fit and quality to things I wear in my leisure time. Those principles bring me way to much pleasure to limit them to formal wear only.

Georgios

Simon i think thats my favorite piece of the ps after the cap. For what temperatures is it designed to be worn ? I mean with a tshirt alone or with a loopwheeled sewatshirt under it.

Il Pennacchio

I was at Univ, and remember one sports team or another selling a jacket like this as a fundraiser.

Erik

Huh. I actually find it quite nice. Part of me wishes it were unlined, for coolness, but I can see the advantages of a lining as well

Calvin

Agree on the lining.

Simon doesn’t the lining + the ventile make this a much warmer piece for transitional weather? It’s definitely not a early or late summer piece. Curious your use case (temp and humidity).

Rob

Hi Simon
How would rate Cad and Dandy?
Thanks

Jon W

Hi Rob, I’ve used Cad and the Dandy for about 15 years now and I have a lot of pieces from them. Something like 5 work suits, 3 blazers, 15 work shirts, 10 oxfords, 3 pairs of bespoke chinos. All bespoke, nothing from their ready to wear.

I would very highly recommend them. The fit and the cut are excellent and the service is also great. I’ve had the same two tailors there for the whole time, so maybe experience varies, but my experience has been really first class with them

Max

Wow. The court jacket looks great. You are borrowing some cues (whether intentionally or not) from the whole “tech wear” trend. I love Acronym and all of their design details, but exclusively gravitate towards their pieces in natural fabrics, like the Stotz version of technical cotton. They also do a great job of things like nailing the right articulation on a hood so that it actually protects you from the elements, and adding zippers for ease of use and temp regulation. Release this thing in black and I will find it hard to resist! Brands like Ten C have released some great looking burnt oranges and browns that would go quite nicely as well. Totally get starting with navy though. Kudos!

Rob

Another winner, Simon! I have well exceeded my annual allowance for clothing, but hopefully can pick one up next year. PS really has outerwear for all occasions, and I love this casual direction. Please keep it up.

Just a small point. I understand why most of the outerwear you offer in navy the first time they are released. However, because PS makes up the majority of my outerwear, the danger is that everything is navy. I understand the stock/economic considerations with a small outfit like PS not being able to stock multiple colours. But it would be really great to see new outerwear in other colours. I realize not all new releases are in navy, but many are. I understand the reasons, but just thought I would mention this.

That being said, I am struggling to imagine this in other colors! What do you think would work?

Thanks!

Rob

Dark brown would be nice – with black jersey inside (rather than grey) to reduce colour contrast. At least for me, bright red would be a little too far out of my comfort zone.

I am actively trying to stay away from navy outerwear, so please please please do this in dark brown next year!

I’m also still hoping for a PS workwear chino – real McCoy’s esque, but with a higher rise and slightly wider leg.

Cheers.

Kalbir

Were you in the 2003 boat that bumped everyone? 😉

Medraut

So, if a guy is trying to have one overcoat that works with everything, meaning all his suits (gray or blue) and black tie (midnight blue) do you still recommend navy for the overcoat? Or go with charcoal? Or something else?

df

Beautiful and practical piece. Are there plans to restock the motor trench?

Primer

I’ve noticed that you can still occasionally find the trench on ebay.

Veit

Hi Simon,
What brand are those white sport socks and have you taken in the leg (leg width) of your Rubato Chinos (they appear a bit slimmer on you)?
Thanks, Veit

John

That is a surprise! A completely welcome one, and maybe the most casual addition to the PS lineup yet. I hope you will consider more such pieces in the future.

I actually have a question about the chinos. When would you wear these Rubato chinos compared to the Real McCoys ones, or are they interchangeable?

Thanks.

BC

I have owned the classic ventile Harrington jacket by PW. Size of that piece is 3. But I am sure I should not choose 3 (M) for this nice collab as I usually chose one size smaller than you Simon. Taking a look at the chest, both XS and S fit me. I hesitate to pull the trigger as I don’t have sth like this at home to compare (measurements)

BC

Seems your chart is inconsistent in this page and the shop. But thanks. I know what you mean!

Shane

Well done on a very nice piece.
I just wanted to get your thoughts on versatility as it ages. I have a very dark navy ventile jacket from Private White VC and, as it has aged, it has definitely become suitable only for casual wear. I know that this is the nature of the fabric and part of its charm but perhaps lighter-coloured pieces don’t show their age as clearly and retain their versatility for longer? Your olive trench coat, for example.

Owen

This looks great, however I was contemplating my wardrobe last weekend and i have come to realise that 70% of my clothes are blue (with most of those being navy). Whilst I do like a tone on tone look, I vowed to intentionally avoid buying anything blue for a while (I might have to make an exception).

Did you consider any other colours for this jacket? As a sportier jacket that is most likely to be worn with blue denim, another colour might be worth offering, although I can’t think of another colour that would work with the style. Black or beige would be a bit too ‘Stone Island’ and earthy colours might not suit the sportier look and would be less smart. Tricky.

Navy sweater

I have to say, it’s pretty cool to see that your becoming more of a menswear designer at this stage Simon. At some point there will be people who review your PS range online etc. Should be interesting to see how the next few years will pan out.

J

Hi Simon, a bit off topic, but can you recommend a steamer that is small enough for travel? Best j

CJ

Also had a Steamery product which was faulty. Customer service was good and sent out another one so I’ll chalk it up to bad luck.

Richard

Simon, you obviously have a talent for this sort of thing, have you considered doing it for a living??!!
Joking aside. With your knowledge and expertise and a near equally well informed readership behind you, have you entertained the thought of tapping into their minds and asking for their input when deciding your next project? What would your readership choose if you could design anything for example.
I don’t recall such a post in the past but may be wrong. Just a thought….A weekend/gym bag would be my call.

Aaron

Looks really good – it’s very welcome seeing a non-synthetic option and the lining is a nice touch.

Ajay

No seam-to-seam shoulder width measurements available? Chest is quite large, as you’ve commented so the shoulder is a useful sizing reference, I think. Thanks!

JB

A really lovely piece, well done!
Just a thought as I noticed the sockless lock with a watchcap. A combination that, to me, is too far apart (if it’s cold enough for a cashmere hat, it’s too cold for sockless).
Just cirous as to whether this was a purely stylistic choice or if you’d indeed wear such a combo?

Daniel

Hello Simon,
I was a bit apprehensive and disappointed when you mentioned the new outerwear piece would be sportswear.

The announcement was pleasently surprising and I decided to pull the trigger on one.

May I ask where you purchased your card holder? It looks amazing

Clive

I’m trying to cut back, buy less, and get more wear out of what I have but I succumbed to this one and have no regrets. Will be great for blustery walks down to the sea. Thank you! One idea for a minor improvement though: a hanging loop would have been great, perhaps using the two rivets at the back.

Another commentator talked about wear on Ventile. I have an almost 10 years old PWVC ventile M95 which they used to do. Used it loads and it is fading nicely but eventually the seam taping came away and I managed to rip a seam. For I think just £25, PWVC retaped and repaired it and now no reason it won’t do another ten years. Heavy use, longevity, and a great repair service make for very good value.

Wong

Hi Simon, can this be steamed? Thanks

Danny S

Hi Simon,

I assume you cannot hand wash this like a piece of knitwear with baby shampoo and full submersion?

Would you just have to sponge down with plain water? Both inside and out?

Danny S

Thanks Simon.
Just to make sure I am understanding, you would actually hand-wash in a tub of water like the video you have shown before on washing knitwear? With baby shampoo, wrap in a towel etc then flat dry?

Danny S

That’s great to know, thanks.

Jack

I thought people might be interested to see that Gore-Tex rain jackets have far more serious problems than having a rustling sound. Until very recently all Gore-Tex jackets were made using a chemical called PFAS, which is a forever chemical which has been polluting our waterways and is toxic to humans to the point that there is considered “no safe amount” that a human can consume. There was a video published here recently which demonstrates just how bad the problem is (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ht7nOaIkpI).
Not only is PFAS polluting our waterways, but it has been shown that we can absorb it through our skin, particularly so when we sweat. Given most people would use Gore-Tex jackets in situations where they are active and likely to sweat, this is very likely to happen (source on absorbing PFAS through skin: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/article/2024/jun/30/pfas-absorbed-skin-study).
There is also a great film on the topic of PFAS and how harmful it is to humans called Dark Waters.
Another massive issue with Gore-Tex is that it is terrible at doing what it is supposed to do (be both waterproof and breathable). Whilst it can be both waterproof and breathable, it generally can’t be both at the same time (video on this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGEzJJYiROk). To achieve this Gore-Tex relies on a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) being reapplied on a regular basis. Most DWRs contain PFC chemicals, which yet again are very harmful to the environment.
Hopefully some people find this of interest. As someone who has bought some expensive Gore-Tex jackets in the past this has been a hard pill to swallow, but the more you look into it the more problems there are with Gore-Tex clothing (and this is before you start to consider the microplastics issues we have).
One question I did have regarding Private White’s clothing is that I’ve read that a lot of Ventile fabrics are made using a DWR. If this is the case for Private White’s clothing do they use a PFC-free DWR?

Carl

Looks great! Is it possible to try it on in person?

Anon

Cool jacket! In one of the pictures, you have a grey ichizawa tote bag – could you confirm if it is the 17E – their “tool bag”? Thanks!

ANON

Thanks, Simon!

Alex

Hi Simon, very much hope you’re well. Slightly unrelated, but my future wife is asking me what kind of wedding band I want. I saw your wedding band in a separate post, which I like the idea of – it looks slightly wider than usual and is perhaps white gold. I would like it made bespoke by a nice artisan who is good at judging which dimensions would best suit my particular hand/finger size/shape – do you have any advice/ recommendations? I am based in Paris. Thanks again, Alex.

david rl fan

Hi, the link from the court jacket page is a bad link? for me it redirects to the front page
For more on the journey of creating this product the launch article here.
https://shop.permanentstyle.com/collections/outerwear/products/the-hooded-jacket?variant=49592188371243

Daniel

Quick and dumb question… do you hang this jacket on a hanger or do you normally fold it and pack it away?

Anon

Hey Simon, I just ordered the court jacket and was wondering your thoughts on its utility/appropriateness as a piece to wear when traveling. I look forward to getting much use out of it in a variety of contexts/situations.

ANON

Thanks for getting back to me. Re getting the jacket on and off – that’s where the side zip can come in handy and really shine!

Anon

Hey Simon, I just pulled the trigger on the court jacket and was wondering your thoughts on its utility/appropriateness as a piece to wear for traveling (talking long haul flight). Thanks!

P.S. Not sure what happened to my initial comment but it didn’t seem to go through.

Anon

Apologies for that! I see that now.

CANUCK

You’re right about this particular shade of navy – perfect to wear with slightly smarter outfit. In the article, you referred to wearing the jacket with smarter outfits – would you be able to add some pictures to demonstrate how that would look? You hit a home run with the Court jacket! (I know, wrong sport, but you catch my drift)
Thanks!