The image above - often referred to as ‘The Pink Heap’ after the nickname of the car - has been an inspiration for me for years. If I had a moodboard, it would be on my moodboard. I had it on a Tumblr page at one point, then a Pinterest board, and now it’s saved somewhere inaccessible on Instagram.
The reason it’s been such a perennial, I think, is that it expresses something core about what I like about Ivy style: that period-specific combination of laid back attitude and (by today’s standards) smarter clothing.
I wrote an article about this a couple of years ago called ‘What Ivy means to me’. That piece worked by showing images of what I don’t like about Ivy style, alongside ones of what I do. But most of the latter were of me, and somehow I missed this one.
I like that almost everyone here is wearing a collar - a shirt, an overshirt, a polo shirt - but doesn’t look formal. There are three great shetland sweaters - doubtless to keep off the cold sea breeze - yet it’s also warm enough for bare ankles and forearms.
Almost everything is tucked in. Loafers look casual and easy.
Much of it is what most people today would consider smart clothing, yet it’s worn in an easy (breezy) manner that makes it seem as simple as a T-shirt and flip-flops.
The use of colour is noteworthy. There are the two faded-red tops: one on the left with blue shorts and high-tops, the other on the right with stone-coloured chinos. The blue shetland on the blonde girl in the background is lovely, as are the two striped shirts.
I like, too, that there is an apparent gradation of clothes by age. The kids might be in a T-shirt or shorts, but the older guys are more likely to be wearing collars and loafers.
As we’ll see in a bit, men were dressing more casually too, but then the clothes seem to be graded by activity. This is not an age where men look like boys, or people wear the same thing to the beach as to dinner.
The photos were taken by Toni Frissell for an article in Sports Illustrated in 1957, covering the holiday scene in Nantucket (an island just off Cape Cod in Massachusetts).
The article is great, kicking off with a poem and then covering everything from the weather to Quaker history, activities from fishing to golf. The whole thing is available in the Sports Illustrated archive here, though without the images.
Fortunately, Frissell donated her whole collection to the US Library of Congress in 1970, and her photographs are free to view on the Library website - not just the ones in the magazine, but all the outtakes too. This is where we see the alternatives to that famous Pink Heap shot (above), and we get more of a documentary-style view of everything else going on in that place and time.
Of course, every time I see an image it’s the clothes that jump out. Like the boy above in torn canvas trousers, white T-shirt and dirty canvas shoes, plus a red shirt over the shoulders. Great look, very L'Etiquette.
The woman on the left is beautifully dressed too, and is an illustration of how good women often look in ‘men’s’ clothes like this, given the proportions of a small waist, bigger hips and billowing shirt. There are other, similar examples scattered around the archive.
Frissell's photos often have something of the voyeur about them - such as the last image above. I like the tucked-in T-shirt with the boat shoes and socks on the middle boy, but you quickly realise the clothes are all variations on a theme, and each is just finding your own personal take.
My other favourite mini-set of images is of people fishing on the shore. The standard clothing here is shorts, shirts (tucked or untucked) and bare feet, but there is also a very stylish guy (above) in a navy smock, green chinos and yellow turtleneck.
And then, a little further on, we have what is perhaps a father and son, both in windbreakers or waterproofs, but both worn with a shirt (below).
As with that original article on Ivy style, there are several elements of the genre I don’t like, and one of them is the gimmicky side that comes through in loud prints and checks. I can see the appeal of a really faded madras shirt or perhaps even a jacket, but the shorts and trousers on the couple below just aren't my style.
Loafers with sports socks on the dock, white oxford shirts tucked into faded blue shorts: I love the first image below as well, and almost all of these have some element I’d want to make use of this summer.
As we always say, the key to inspiration is not to completely copy looks - that both narrows your perspective and blocks out individual thought - but rather to take elements from them, such as the way two items work together, or a colour combination, or the silhouette.
Images like these are replete with inspiration in that way, and as a result I keep returning to them. Thank you Toni Frissell for documenting this time and place, and for putting all of it into the public domain.
Is there a particular set of images, of a certain time and place, that inspires you? If so let us all know - with links please!
Hello Simon, these shots remind me of a similar set of “images” that never ceases to inspire me – actually a film, Bert Stern’s “Jazz on a Summer’s Day”.
What was supposed to be a photo essay of the 1958 Newport Jazz Festival ended up being a documentary film. Aside from the music (which is fabulous: Monk, Mulligan, O’Day just to name 3) almost the entire run time seems like an homage to Ivy Style. The performers are suitably attired (pun intended) in obligatory sack jackets, but it’s the shots of the crowd that get me – even the local priest stopping by for some tunes seems effortlessly cool! It would have to be one of the most stylish bits of celluloid ever to be published. I have it on DVD, but I’m sure there will be clips – maybe even the entire film – on YouTube somewhere for readers who aren’t familiar with it to check out.
Wonderful, I haven’t seen that, thank you Nick. I look forward to seeing for the clothes and for the jazz!
Yes, it is on youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1Rc3Va_2xI
The Rubato guys sent the link to their customers some weeks ago.
I always thought the Pink Heap foto was staged. Thanks for clarifying that, Simon.
And by “staged” I ment: pure advertisement. Not real people with their own clothes.
Ah, I see. Yes I’m pretty sure it wasn’t that, but I don’t know if she – for example – asked them to stay where they were or move around. I do like the fact one woman is almost entirely hidden in the image used in the magazine (behind the blond boy in the red polo) and only pops up in alternates
I second this recommendation; it’s an incredible document of midcentury American music, style and also the unique and charming character of the town of Newport.
It’s also available to rent on Amazon; the Youtube link that was offered earlier features a distorted aspect ratio. It’s worth spending a little to see it as it was meant to be viewed!
There was the same mood on the West Coast in France. Bermuda shorts, wide chino pants, sperry top-sider sneakers, boat shoes, oxford shirts with roll up sleeves, polo shirts, Scottish wool sweaters … Until the beginning of the nineties I would say. Maybe it was a kind of French Ivy already mentioned here.
You can still see strains of this style in some areas. Ile de Ré is an example. Plenty of hard worn poloshirts, beaten up boatshoes and French cotton chore coats as soon as the weather chills.
I would say it’s still very much alive in a certain French milieu that vacations on the French Atlantic coast from Deauville to Biarritz.
Great pictures. I wonder if that was the inspiration for Drake’s “a postcard from Maine”.
I was going to say that “The Pink Heap” looks like a Drake’s shoot.
More rather the Drake’s shoot looks like “The Pink Heap” 😉
Very interesting article illustrating the longevity of Ivy as an American staple in both style and function. And successfully changed clothing trends in many other countries. Even very little change in the cut of the clothes. Remarkable.
Hi Simon, Thank you for finding and sharing these wonderful images. The images are amazing and suggest the feel of an era way beyond the clothing.
They resonate with me as an influence when growing up, in what by comparison, felt like a drab London in the early sixties. My father, who worked in the docks, used to bring home American magazines and comics, given to him by US merchantmen, whose boats had docked in London. I used to read them and imagine the lifestyle.
A look I dipped into throughout my life especially as an alternative to the punk era. I did in fact work for the Ivy inspired Village Gate for a short while when very young.
Great memories. Thanks again for something wonderful on a lovely summer morning in London.
A pleasure, pleased they bring back such memories Stephen
My wife and I go to a Nantucket about twice a year (on the shoulder seasons, when it becomes slightly affordable). Years ago on my first trip, I was excited to break out my madras shorts, Oxford shirts, cable-knit sweaters, and all the other Ivy kit I love while on holiday. Naturally, I soon discovered that I was the only person dressed that way, and it felt like costume. Of course, the whole charm of the photos above is the natural ease. No one is dressed that way because they discovered Shetland sweaters on an Internet forum or have their favorite loafer brands bookmarked. It’s just the way you dressed on holiday-which on Nantucket today, means flip-flops, stretchy polos and fleece vests. There is a remarkable, family owned clothing store on the island called Murray’s, which continues to stock the sort of gear you might have found in the photos above.
Brilliant post and so correct.
I’ve visited Nantucket on multiple occasions, it’s a wonderful place, but somewhat sadly, they don’t dress like this whilst I do !
I’m not sure I agree with the above. Many of the waterfront and boating photos above are set at the back patio and docks of the Nantucket Yacht Club. Today you’ll find that most people there still dress in much the same way as these photos!
So what happened ?
How did we get here !?
Fashion ?
Economies of scale?
Mass industrialisation ?
Capitalism ?
Buy now , buy more , buy cheaper ?
I guess we all just got a little too clever for ourselves !
Most of the above, including choosing convenience (for example in looking after more valuable clothes) over most things
Junk food, cars and computers?
I’m sure this will anger someone, but I’m fairly sure one of the reason people of the past looked so effortlessly cool in their clothes is that they felt more comfortable in their bodies.
Looking at the people in the pictures, they range from slim to heafty (in the last picture, ,where you have many older people). Noone is under-weight, noone is super-buff (few of the bros seem to even lift), and noone is extremely obese. There are more bikes than cars in most of the pictures, despite these people mostly being quite well-off. People are biking, fishing, walking, boating, carrying things (and children); they have the bodies, and the confidence in their bodies, that you get from actually LIVING in and USING your body all the time. And you do that living and using wearing the clothes that you have, over time, gotten so comfortable in.
Compare that to how we live today: most of us, myself included, spend so much time sitting in front of screens that we may as well not have bodies except for those times our aching backs, stiff shoulders, carpals tunnel wrists and doomscrolling thumbs start aching. If we use our bodies at all, it’s mostly in neurotic, highly controlled ways: enduring your 45 minutes of spinning, keeping perfect form for the 12th rep of your third set of bench press, then “rewarding yourself” with a protein bar (38% modified corn starch), take a selfie and getting back to googling how to get the right amoung of #collarroll on your #OCBD to meet acceptable #menswear standards. And for our minimum physical activity, we wear “technical” clothing, making sure our #stylish clothes remain fresh, neat and completely un-lived in.
One of the appeals of ivy style is the sporty, casual elegance of the look, and that’s aquired partly through a sporty, casually elegant life. These “lifestyle looks” are just as much about how you live as how you dress.
Disclaimer: ANOTHER reason those people seem so confident and stylish is probably because they were raised as life’s winners. They knew education, gainful employment and a relatively safe place in society awaited them. They didn’t have to deal with food insecurity, dangerous working environments or systematic racism – in addition to being very slim and stylish, everyone in these pictures are also very white (and almost certainly very upper middle class or higher – the epitome of WASPyness). Black jazz musicans may have been welcome to play at Newport, but they would have a hard time finding a hotel that would take them in (even when they did manage to be even more stylish than the WASPs).
I think you certainly have something with your first point Sam – living well and living in clothes
Many many good points.
I’m curious how you are able to identify the sweaters as shetlands?
Well, I’m going off the texture I can see, which doesn’t have that much that’s comparable in knitwear, and the historic popularity of the style
The gray sweater on the husky guy holding the boy on his shoulders is clearly brushed, which means it’s from J. Press.
Are you saying there’s a “shaggy dog” in the photo? 🙂
Yes!
Fantastic – and serves as a visual guide to the Beach Boys’ nostalgic “Disney Girls (1957)”. It’s amazing how the clothes and style of that era have endured. Thank you for sharing these, I hadn’t seen them before, even perusing old Ivy blogs.
Some other inspiring links found by others include:
https://dieworkwear.com/2024/05/03/american-space-cowboys/
https://dieworkwear.com/2019/05/25/the-amazing-style-of-british-cyclists/
https://putthison.com/this-is-camp-style-inspiration-from-the-adirondacks/
Thanks Mike, I knew there were some great ones from Derek’s back catalogue
Thanks for these links, Mike – brilliant images and I love that song too.
A key aspect of this classic ivy look that runs slightly counter to the current menswear trend is the importance of a *relatively* slim chino. Obviously not the stretch-skinny horrors that plague our financial centres, but something quite trim to then contrast with the more voluminous Oxford shirt or polo.
Thanks Robin, I know what you mean. It’s the straight chino, not the big US Army style. Important to point out the middle ground between the modern and the original military
Pretty much like the RMC blue seal chino, right?
I’d say that’s a little slimmer and lower rise, but not a lot
Any chance that we might see a PS chino in this vein!? I recall you looking at recreating your Armory Army chino, but couldn’t find a suitable fabric.
Not soon I’m afraid, no
Where can I find a chino like that?
I don’t have one I think is perfect. Rubato probably comes closest
The problem all the nice chinos out there are army/workwear style, non are really preppy. Would be good to see a single row of stitching on the side for a change
Thank you Simon fot the wonderful post!
What great pictures of a bygone era. What stands out to me is that I didn’t see any overweight people in any of the photos. They all looked fit and trim and looked great in their clothes as a result. If an enterprising photographer went to Nantucket today for a similar purpose the results would be completely different and much less appealing. We can learn a lot from these wonderful pictures.
No need to fat shame people, Scott. I like to think we’re better than such things here on PS please.
I wouldn’t say that was fat-shaming, Tailor, but either way yes let’s try and keep this focused on clothing please
Scott’s comments are fair and not unkind. Clothing is naturally more flattering when bodies are traditionally healthy. PS lovers, regardless of body build, can agree without hurt feelings.
That was my point, but you said it better than I did, thank you Robert!
Complete absence of polyester Athleisure. Modern “athletic” clothing has a strange ability to make the wearer look very unathletic.
I also feel the apparent unconcern with sartorial perfection is important. Not actually trying too hard vs trying hard to not appear trying.
I loved this article! I love the idea of idk western wear and cowboys. I have some family photos of my dad’s family that used to be ranchers in the Colorado Rockies. But I enjoy that it had similar principles. They wore things that lasted, almost always a shirt with a collar, felt hats for winter, straw for summer. They repaired and re used. I try to mix these two styles into a western Ivy of sorts. Die Workwear has some good photos in this very old article.
http://oxs.335.myftpupload.com/2021/07/13/a-story-about-ranch-dressing/
Nice, thanks Zak and I love the family connection
For your consideration: Toni Frissell in Wyoming https://www.loc.gov/resource/tofr.04499/
A great shirt and watch!
Yes I saw that one – thank you!
Like the article Tony Sylvester did last year on the Riviera, I enjoy these summer vibe articles. Thanks Simon.
Just as you say so very enjoyable a vibe. I wonder if PS themselves stop and realise the future archive being created here (three times a week!) has a parallel value to those articles of the past often referenced. I’m sure when future interested folks explore such topics the consideration and writings of Simon et al will be equally respected.
That would be wonderful Jim
What’s also interesting is the total absence of writing or a logo on what’s been worn – literally to be found nowhere (pedants will spot that there are two shots showing baseball caps that have logos).
And of course, no trainers.
As someone else asked, where did it all go wrong?
One day trainers may become passé and perhaps a return to non-petrochemically derived footwear will return. And from the bottom – all revolutions start there – people might sober up and wear clothes that are not blots on the landscape.
But I’m not holding my breath!
Good point on the logos, yes. No one letting brands do the dressing for them
Nice photographs! I have spent much time on Cape Cod and Nantucket, Martha’s Vineyard, etc. back in the seventies and eighties. In those days, my eyes were more for architecture and I recollect seeing some interesting houses and cottages there. My former wife’s uncle had a large cottage on Nantucket Island, and we spent short vacations there, with famiy reunions. The outfits in your photos here reminded me of the clothes we used to wear — faded colours, strong cotton materials, plenty of khakis. And of course, the lovely faded Nantucket/Breton red was often seen, and often worn.
https://www.loc.gov/item/2021742665/
Simon do you have an idea what the woman on the right is wearing on top of her white shirt? Is this a shetland cardigan? it looks fabulous, also the color fits the permanent aesthetic very well!
You’re right, that is lovely. I don’t know, but I’d guess some kind of cardigan
It’s a short women’s sportswear cardigan in cotton (I imagine) with a zipper. The men’s version would have most likely had buttons. This one fits relatively close to the body – almost like a bomber jacket or liner. For me, it’s the wearing of the sport shirt with the collar points out that gives it that nonchalant mid-century feeling. A design/look you often see copied today, though with a crewneck underneath. It’s not just Drakes and Rubato that copy mid century sportswear. The DNA is there in more mainstream fare from Zara and Uniqlo. Done considerably less well, course.
Hi Simon,
I wanted to offer a perspective on the images of “ivy” clothing on Nantucket. I was a junior in boarding (prep) school in 1957, so I write from experience. Ivy or preppy style, while seemingly relaxed and unselfconscious in old photographs, was in fact, anything but. Preppy or ivy style was a rigorously defined way of dressing that maintained the elite social stature of wealthy young men in New England boarding schools who then went on to “ivy” colleges, also all men in the 50’s. These were elitists schools and colleges that were rigidly white male student enrollments with no diversity whatever. While the preppy/ivy style was developed in boarding schools through peer pressure and the examples of teachers (Masters), the status and separateness of the prep school society was maintained in universities through the rigorous enforcement of the “ivy style” through hazing, ridicule and ostracization. The rules for acceptable style components were detailed and thorough. The photographs of young men on Nantucket capture some of these such as: white wool socks with loafers and canvas sneakers – always wool, never cotton. Loafers were Bass weegins with leather straps – never tassels. Oxford cloth button down shirts, khaki pants – never chinos – the color was always khaki. White or lighter colored chinos would have been laughed at. These and the many other defined “rules” were specified in the official dress codes included with admissions to a boarding school such as “Jackets (tweed), ties, and dress shirts with khaki pants are to be worn to class. Grey flannel suits to Sunday church”
Ironically, ivy style has been reinvented and romanticized in more contemporary times by Ralph Lauren and even Drakes to become more inclusive and interpretive, while covering up its very elitist past. While we can take from the past what we want, and we can interpret it differently, we cannot erase the original intent of a style that reinforced an elitist social structure peculiar to a region and an educational system. Beautiful Nantucket was the perfect center of this style where the exclusivity of its members could be segregated and maintained during the summer months away from boarding school and university campuses. The “ivy” uniform performed its intended purpose perfectly as the photographs illustrate.
As always, enjoyable and provocative discussions.
Jack Williams
Thank you Jack, and nice to have the personal perspective.
Personally, I think the style can be quite happily separated from the elitist situation in which it was created and maintained for a long time. Many menswear genres and traditions came from strict ‘uniforms’ whether it was forms of tailoring or the military or workwear – very different in how they were enforced of course, but that doesn’t mean any of those styles can’t be re-used happily today in a more inclusive and creative way.
Also, I’m no expert here but my impression is that at least in some places, there was a good degree of creativity in Ivy style – it’s often the university dress, particularly early on, that people find inspiring, because of the mixing of so many different genres – bringing in military chinos when that was seen as rebellious, then jeans later on, and so on.
I think this is an important point to interrogate. It seems clear that some part of the appeal of the style is the association with elite privilege and ease. On some level I think many people want to feel themselves to embody that privilege sometimes and to do it by throwing on a sweater. I disagree that the style can be separated from those associations. But it can build new meanings and narratives on top of that history. “Ivy” seems to have become much more of a shared and flexible tradition and it’s fascinating to track that evolution. I don’t think it’s a question of wholly accepting or rejecting the style based on the values it has historically reflected, but rather exploring how new and/or personal values can be expressed through small innovations at the margin. It’s something that I think about a lot inspired by articles like this one which keep the conversation going.
This is really interesting, thank you! I knew about the social signaling of these clothes, and about how elite institutions were kept ethnically honogenous, but not about how openly the rules were formalized and enforced (except for Edward Saïd’s famous comment on frayed collars). This goes against the interpretation made by the Japanese Van Jacket excursion when they made Take Ivy (as told through W. David Marx’ Ametora). There, it seems like most was mere tacit knowledge and taste.
As a European, I think it is easier to not make the white elitist connection with this type of wear. Rather, it comes of just as good looking style in durable fabrics. Although I think many (upper) middle class members, like myself, sometimes like to embrace a sort of old money, vintage aesthetic to distinguish themselves from contemporary rich, tacky taste.
The loud pants on the couple (shorts on the woman, trousers for the man), are classic patchwork fabric.
Not gimmicky at all, but fun attire designed — like a nice Hawaiian shirt — for a particular time and place. Same with the faux-rustic straw “beach bum” hat on the fellow fishing.
But, otherwise, excellent article — an apex of sorts in American fashion.
One takeaway in these photos is that, even with some of the roomier jackets or shirts, nothing seems ill fitting, even on the kids. Lots of quiet rule-following in the outfits.
Good point Leif on the fit.
On the patchwork, I can definitely see that – I say that it is not my style, rather than being just bad, because it is clearly a ‘fun’ alternative, and even in that time and place, my personal tendency would have been for something that was not fun!
Ralph Lauren charged a ridiculous £319 for a couple of patchwork Madras shirts this summer. They look better than jackets trousers, shorts. Disappointingly, there were no genuine Madras shirts in this summer’s collection. Real New Englanders buy their Madras clothes from the likes of J Press which still has a huge range at reasonable prices.
Lovely article.
On some level I could distill so much of the magic down to simply thick good quality well woven cottons.
Whether they’re white, navy, blue, beige or brightly coloured, nothing is as casual and ages as beautifully. The definition of easy going casual.
Nicely put Chris
Hi Simon,
I was invited to a “beach formal” wedding in Maui next May. I would like to wear my Canali seersucker blazer (in the normal blue and white stripe most typical of seersucker) with navy tonal seersucker slacks. Is this mixing of seersuckers acceptable? Or would navy linen be preferable on bottom? Plan on wearing with white cotton-linen dress shirt, blue silk knit flat bottom tie, and black leather loafers. Thank you!
I’d say the linen would probably be a better choice on the trousers.
Agree on the linen trouser. Please reconsider the shoes! Black leather loafers not optimal in my view. Dark blue or tobacco suede would be better.
Thank you for sharing this, what a great discovery. Very inspiring indeed.
What a lovely picture. When I went to university in the 1970’s, a photographer had taken a picture of a fraternity party and compared it to one from the 1950’s. The look was exactly the same. Khakis, a white OCBD, Weejuns, a gray Shetland, and a navy blazer was standard. Jeans and tshirts for the weekend.
I still dress this way .. it’s simple, textures match, and easy.
Being semi-retired, I teach at a major university and tbh, the students dress like slobs. Girls wear black yoga pants and any kind of athletic bra, plus flip flops. Guys wear nothing that matches. Ivy was inexpensive and made anyone look good on a budget. It is still a great look in a nautical sense…simple, classy.
“Frissell’s photos often have something of the voyeur about them – such as the last image above. I like the tucked-in T-shirt with the boat shoes and socks on the middle boy, but you quickly realise the clothes are all variations on a theme, and each is just finding your own personal take.”
The guy on the right in this picture, wearing what looks like a navy sweater tucked in, has a very Cary Grant look about the way he’s standing. Looks terrific.
My wife is from an old RI family and they have spent their summers in Cape Cod and Nantucket . I found some old photographs of them on holidays in the 70s and 80s and they are all dressed very similar. That style was just something they wore during those summer months. My wife still wears red chinos that are now so faded that they are pink. The straw hat is something her father still wears for fishing and he had it on the last time we were there. My daughter has a quiet fascination with i 🙂 I have actually been to the famous Murray’s Toggery shop where you can still buy the original Nantucket red trousers , polos etc. But as another poster mentioned, not many people dress like that anymore, I saw more flip flops and cheap polos than red trousers and boat shoes. Such a shame..
Thank you Simon for highlighting this incredible collection; I became aware of it two years ago when a site I follow on Instagram referenced it. I’ve downloaded hundreds of images and like you mentioned; I’m struck by the fantastic amount of individuality in the way the clothes are worn. I think what gets lost when people wear Ivy today they wear it in the way of a ‘uniform’ instead of letting their personality shine through. Anyway thanks again!
https://www.loc.gov/resource/tofr.08588/
Can anyone spot the distinct Drake’s reference in this photo? Mr. Hill has definitely pinned this one!
Hi Simon, super article, thanks. Another era / group worth looking into could be the beat generation. I always thought this mix of 1940’s / 1950’s blend of workweary jazzy preppy style was particularly attractive. And resonates well with some of todays’ trend or brands that will all like, including Rubato. I am not sure this has been explored as much as Ivy, but I have not digged too much into this to be honest.
Nice idea Gab, thanks
In the early 80’s a shop opened on the Parsons Green end of the Fulham Road. It was called Amangansett, named after the small town in the East Hamptons.
It sold clothing the like of which had not been seen in London before; the seersuckers, madras, OCBDs, preppy jackets, chinos sweaters and shorts straight out of the playbook.
Horribly expensive I don’t think it lasted long, but what a place to stop and browse.
Simon, Have you ever reviewed “rain Jackets” or have thoughts. The photo of the father with the straw hat and son got me thinking. Not sure what my son and I look like fishing on the NJ beaches but not that good for sure.
Thanks, hope all goes well in a “warm” London.
Cliff
By rain jacket, I assume you mean something short, rather than a long raincoat. We have covered this a bit – I’m a fan of a smock or anorak, for example, which is quite similar to what these guys are wearing.
However, if you are actually fishing, then I think it’s a good reason to have more technical outerwear, like Gore-Tex etc. Just have everything else more stylish – strong workwear shorts, a shirt underneath, an old cap etc. Or some technical companies also make pieces in Ventile which is more natural. That article on smocks has some good links in the comments
Simon, thanks very helpful.
Cliff
As a teen in the ’80s, in the US, there was a variety of jacket still in production at that time, which probably got up and running in the ’60s, that was loosely intended for rainy weather. Made of flimsy nylon or some cotton/ polyester blend, with a hood and some cinching ties or plastic toggles and loosely falling into the “windbreaker” category. Some had snaps, most had elastic cuffs. Kids wore them. High School football coaches wore them. These garments were absolute junk and were about as sturdy as paper towel when the rain showed up.
This may seem a bit strange, but I have always used nature as a guide rather than photos of any particular person or people. It helps me coordinate colors and work through proportions. Obviously, trees and flowers are not a one-for-one comparison, but they do help. It’s one of the reasons I try to visit botanical gardens everywhere I go. One never knows what he’ll find.
Using nature as a guide is precisely why it’s unwise to wear white clothes beyond the summertime, or bright colors for that matter.
The days are shorter, the leaves turn, etc., and thus the wardrobe should reflect this mood; out come the dark browns, grays and various earth tones, tweeds, woolens.
A slightly tangential thought I had seeing the first picture is how important it is to balance elements of your look. Specifically I noticed that even those with more colourful shirts had conservative haircuts. Hard to give any prescriptive conclusion on how to do so, but I think this sense of balance is a big part of ivy style whether it’s in terms of hair, clothes, shoes or something else. Maybe the things you previously mentioned not liking about ivy style would be those that stray too far from some conservative counterbalance.
Dear Simon, Nobody wearing Nantucket Reds from Murray’s Toggle Shoppe? Both Toni Frissell and Slim Aarons cut their chops as WW II photogs. After the war, Slim became known for capturing the wealthy at leisure. Toni was more interested in catching the wealthy at sport; hence your surf-casting pics. She did many photo sessions on South Carolina hunting plantations. Cheers,
Slight aside – the SAS used to paint their Land Rovers pink in the desert.
Best colour for disguise apparently
Huh. Interesting
Having lived on Nantucket in the late 1970s, and having been born in the year these photos were taken, this post resonates. One of my best friends used to tell the story of how, at his New England prep school back in the day, they had to wear jackets in class, no matter how hot (there was no AC then). So the students tore off the sleeves of their Oxford shirts, to provide some level of hidden comfort under the blazers. One blisteringly hot day, the headmaster relented and said they could remove their jackets. He was not amused by the sleeveless Oxfords.
Ivy style originated as a New England form of sprezzatura, in the sense that it was wealthy Boston Brahmins who wanted to look well composed without appearing to care. As one old blue blood put it (I forget where I read this), “one doesn’t buy clothes; one owns clothes.”
Incidentally, that faded red color is actually called Nantucket red (at least in New England).
Hadn’t seen these images before – just fantastic. Thanks for sharing, Simon.
I particularly like the chinos on the lad in the light blue shirt and pinstripe overshirt. The medium straight fit, high rise, and crumple are perfect.
Is anyone making chinos like these at present?
Hi Simon, would you wear white socks with those black loafers (whether with shorts or trousers) like the boy in the third to last photo? To me this combination is a turn off, Ivy or not.
I think it’s a more showy look because of the high contrast. I probably wouldn’t