Seven boat shoes compared: Quoddy, Yuketen, Paraboot, Sebago, Castellano, Polo, Loro Piana
Boat shoes and their ilk (deck, moc, canoe etc) have become a bit of a trend in the past year. Miu Miu, Bally and Loro Piana launched styles in the fashion world, while the likes of Ghiaia, Crockett & Jones and Saman Amel have introduced more classic-menswear ones.
I can see why they're popular - people want comfort, but they might also be tired of the ubiquity and cheapness of trainers. Boat shoes offer the best of both worlds: a soft, lace-up shoe that’s smarter than a sneaker.
I’ve never worn boat shoes that much, largely because most styles are too chunky for the slimmer and dressier clothes I prefer. The toe shape is usually broad and round, the stitching prominent, and the high ‘wall’ (how the toe goes straight up to that row of stitching) doesn't help either.
Still, I have had a few, including a pair from Ralph Lauren I featured a couple of years ago, which I wear with shorts, and a slimmer, low-vamp pair I got in Japan last year. They were shown with our cream Hand-Framed Sweater.
The recent popularity then spurred my interest in other makes, such as the Quoddy collab from Beige and Loro Piana’s high-end version (above). As soon as readers start asking about something, I tend to interested too. It's both selfish and a service. I subsequently styled a pair from Paraboot for Clutch, and discussed Yuketen when I reported on Paris shows.
So all in all, I have a fair few to talk about. Here are seven, with my thoughts on the style, quality and value of each.
Sebago: Best budget option
£150
Traditional boat shoes look best when they are well worn, beaten up and comfortable sans socks. That’s the classic aesthetic, and while it can look a little old-mannish, it does depend a lot on what you wear them with. Black jeans and a western shirt, for example, largely remove the association.
I picked up the Sebago shoes shown here cheaply on eBay (not the classic Docksides, but similar) purely to try them out, and I was very impressed with the way they meet this aesthetic at a decent price. They’re not quite the top quality, but they’re certainly better than pairs I’ve had in the past from immediate competitors like Polo or Sperry.
£127
I'd say the opposite about these from Spanish brand Castellano. I like the low vamp and long last shape, which is why I bought them in the first place, but they made my feet bright orange the first time I wore them, and that’s only just stopped happening entirely after perhaps 40 wears. They’re cheaper and it shows.
The shoe is soft and comfortable - easy to wear without socks - but the sole is thin and feels brittle, even compared to other leather-soled shoes. Of course the sole makes them a bit more of a loafer, but the categories of boat, deck, moc, loafer etc overlap, and I’m going largely off ways I wear the shoes rather than anything else.
Paraboot: Best overall
£190
The Barth probably hits the sweet spot for PS readers. It’s a high quality boat shoe at a pretty accessible price, and the perfect traditional style.
How do you assess quality here? Well primarily the upper, where finer wrinkles in the calf are a good sign, just as they are with dress shoes. You also want a good combination of softness and substance, then tight, uniform stitching and a quality sole. The sole here is natural rubber, and watch out for which models are Blake-stitched so can be resoled.
The only thing I dislike about the Barth is that little green label, particularly given ‘Paraboot’ is already written on the edge of the sole. But you can’t have everything and I’m sure some will see it as a traditional style detail.
Ralph Lauren Millard boat shoe
£165
Like the Castellano, this is also the opposite of the shoe that came before. I bought this ‘Millard’ model from Polo because I liked the style - tobacco suede, beige stitching, curled ends on the laces, plus internal things like good arch support. They were and are a great summer style with shorts.
But over time they haven’t really softened, remaining quite stiff and hard to wear for long periods. This probably betrays a lower quality suede and/or internal construction, and while I still wear them, I use my Alden LHS loafers - which perform a similar function for me - much more.
Quoddy / Beige canoe shoe
€291
This collaboration between the Maine manufacturer company Quoddy and Parisian shop Beige produced a great shoe, but personally I found the fit didn't work quite as well.
Aesthetically, I love the choices Beige made to update the Quoddy style: black Chromexcel leather, white stitching rather than tan, yellow lining. It gives them real style and successfully separates them from that old-man look.
But they weren’t as comfortable as the Sebago or Paraboot (which Beige also stock) and gave me a few blisters. Although, it should also be said that they are one of the few models that can functionally tighten using the laces around the top of the shoe, which is useful for someone like me with narrow heels. Also they have no external label, unlike Paraboot.
Yuketen Blucher
£495
Yuketen is fascinating. These are beautiful shoes, probably in the nicest leather I have ever worn barefoot. But they’re also made like a traditional moccasin, which makes them rather impractical. Plus they’re expensive.
The leather is thick, cool and moulds to the foot. It makes them a pleasure to put on every time. But they’re also kind of soft and sloppy, with a soft, low sole. They have a similar feel to actual moccasins, which is great when you’re padding round the house or in the garden, but not so good for walking around on concrete all day.
A great shoe, but with probably only niche appeal.
Loro Piana Sea Sail
The finest
£785
If money were no object, I’d wear nothing but these. As I mentioned in a recent piece I’ve been tempted to try Loro Piana shoes, and ended up buying this colour of the Sea Sail. They were everything I expected: perfect materials, great shape (slimmer, smarter) and I think the most comfortable shoe (outside of a trainer) I've ever worn. But of course not good value.
The ox-leather upper is soft and supple, but it’s the other parts - the leather lining, the construction, the sole - that set this shoe apart from the others on the list. The Sea Sail has the perfect combination of a structure that holds the foot, support in the heel and arch, and softness elsewhere. It’s a very well-designed and well-made shoe.
The only negative from a functional point of view - and I think it will be significant for some people - is that the lining is less smooth than most boat shoes and as a result they’re not that comfortable barefoot. They’re designed a little more like a trainer in that respect, and better with socks.
Despite having seen and owned and tried more boat shoes than most people, I of course have not tried most boat shoes, or deck shoes, canoe shoes, moccasins etc. So do please let everyone know your experiences too.
I have also tried the new Saman Amel model, but not enough for them to make this list yet. I'll cover those in the future.
You’ve missed the most crucial part – which can get wet?? Clothes are more than just costume Simon, and whilst you might not prioritise practicality / not summer by the sea – it will be important to lots!
I have the paraboot pair and love them. But then again – I grew up sailing in New England so that classic pair makes sense for me.
Like I said Alfie, the style of shoe has expanded and usefully so. The LPs I certainly wouldn’t get wet, and I’d worry about the Castellana. But all the others would be fine
I always thought that boat shoes were like sailors; they don’t like to get wet!
Definitely Mark, but that doesn’t mean that in the end they don’t get wet… 🙂
Dear Alfie, Simon,
I’ve owned Quoddy for many years and more recently Sebago (as Mr Porter discontinued Quoddy). The Quoddy shoe is the superior shoe in terms of leather, fit and comfort but is evocative of the casual New England dad look. Nevertheless if Quoddy if were available in the UK (in taupe) I would buy them again over Sebago in a heartbeat. The Sebago leather feels harder and the shoe is generally less comfortable but it does look slightly more refined. I have cut the label off my Sebago’s because I just can’t bear to wear a label.
On the point of which can you get wet – when I bought my Sebagos I filled a bath with 10-inches of warm water, poured an awful lot of salt into it and waited for it to dissolve, got into the bath, standing in the salt water in my brand new Sebagos where I stayed for about 20 minutes. I then kept the wet shoes on walking around the house so that they moulded to my feet, softened the leather and introduced a salty dog look. Even in spite of doing that the leather took some time to loosen.
All my Quoddy shoes eventually had a fault in the stitching somewhere but they were my near-daily shoe – they just go with just about everything. But be careful – I think boat shoes would clash or dilute the look of LEJ for example.
Sebago’s European website has a huge range of colours and many more than the UK. They do an off-white (slightly distressed) pair that is an unbelievable summer shoe – and not a million miles from the colourway of the Loro Piano shoe above in Simon’s article.
In spite of my love for them I’m desperately looking for any alternative to boat shoes (huaraches, summer loafers, etc.) because I need a summer shoe that has a bit more elan than a boat shoe but isn’t formal and my god it’s so difficult to find the right thing.
Happy shopping as ever.
Will
Cheers Will, very useful and interesting to hear the EU-site options
Had my Quoddy boat shoes for 15 yrs and two resoles. Very comfortable.
Good to know, thanks Andrew
Hello Andrew. Where would you re-sole them please? With the manufacturer or just a normal cobbler?
On this theme, if anyone has experience resoling a pair of Quoddies outside of the US, where have you sent them? It is very expensive for shoes to make the (preferred) trip back and forth to Maine. Thanks!
Hi Andrew and Rob, I commented below about my Quoddies and have a similarly positive experience. Quoddy can resolve them, but you need to send them back to Maine. I suppose any good cobbler could do it as well, if they had the right kind of sole.
Hi Simon,
I’ve gone through phases of liking and disliking boat shoes and so I don’t want to fall into another cycle of liking them again!
I assume for any outfit you’ve paired with boat shoes these could easily be swapped for loafers?
Tom
They could largely, yes Tom. You lose a particular style which it sounds like you don’t care for, but more importantly with most loafers you lose a certain comfort and practicality – that boat shoes can be so beaten up and worn in the wet and still look good. These last two elements are probably a big reason of why they never go away
I think one problem (for UK based readers at least) is that a lot of the key US moccasin makers (Rancourt, for instance, or Russell Moccasin) are hard to get in the UK. I think there’s a fairly deep tradition of making moccasins in Maine, but it’s not something that’s easy to access from abroad.
That being said, I ordered a pair of Quoddy’s direct from the manufacturer a few years ago and it wasn’t as painful an experience as expected. Expensive shipping costs though.
Thanks Tom. The number still making in Maine is dropping off – Yuketen had to stop recently because of the lack of skilled workers left
Hello Simon, those are terrible news. Did they have to stop completely or just halt production for a while?
Stop completely I believe – it would take a long time to train someone new!
hi Simon, did you consider the Quoddy Head boat, which is more of a classic boat shoe design than the one they did with Beige? After wearing Sebago for many years I switched to them recently and like them a lot. They use high quality (real) leather, offer an MTM program which is useful for people like me with wider feet, and can be resoled by the maker which is something that annoys me about other makers. They are certainly not the luxury option like the LP boat shoes, but are in my opinion if you are looking for a more traditional boat shoe made with high quality materials that can be beaten up and will look better. All the best, Andrew
Thanks Andrew. No I didn’t look at those – this is not a comprehensive survey, just the models I have tried. Good to hear about that option though
Another fantastic article.
I do like boat shoes as a smarter option to trainers.
I would have liked to have seen an example each of Ghahia, Saman Amel and Crockett boaters featured in this article albeit you hope to cover the Saman Amel boaters sometime later.
Ho do boaters rank in the shoe formality scale?
In the last two photos , can you tell us what you are wearing as they highlight the boater shoes so well.
Also the white chinos in the other photos please.
Thanks Lindsay.
Saman I will feature later. Crocketts I’m not a big fan of myself, with their more closed look and three eyelets.
Boat shoes would be the pretty much the lowest formality of leather shoe.
The penultimate shot is a Rubato shirt with Brycelands black jeans.
The last one is our Speciale cotton sweater with vintage fatigues.
The white chinos are from Casatlantic.
Many thanks
Casatlantic – the Mogador if I’m correct?
No, El Jadida
Thanks
Hi Simon, are the Bryceland’s black jeans the washed version? Thanks
No, I had them from raw Luke, but the washed is just a once rinse to aid with sizing I think, not a washed look or effect as you would have with other jeans
I have been happy for so many years with my Sebago Dockside’s that I have never bought any of the alternative options. I do not really understand the views on quality as my preferred pair was bought 30 years ago and is still in very good shape (used extensively in June/July/August…), and more comfortable than any other shoes I have ever owned. With a Lacoste polo and a quality chino, you have the quintessential classic combo of French summers on the Atlantic side… with Weston 180 Loafers for the evening.
I so agree!
Coming of age in the late seventies/early eighties, my idea of a boat shoe is a Docksides. Somehow every boat shoe from another brand does not look right. The one which looks completely wrong to me is the Loro Piano one. Some things should not be, nor look, that expensive and a boat shoe is one of these things.
Couldn’t agree more. Sadly – in my experience – the quality of leather used for Sebago’s has dropped off a cliff in recent years (4-5) – alongside the quality of construction. My latest pair are less than a year old and are nearly worn out. The leather used resembles flooring vinyl in look and texture – but not in durability unfortunately.
I’m a long time sebago customer and have noticed the same – unfortunately. Although the quality is still better than other options, and if you make sure to get the best version of docksides (and not one of the myriad new options at a slightly lower price point) and re wax them regularly then they’re OK.
I used to wear Sebago dockside’s but after around 18 months the sole started coming unglued and the quality of the leather is quite poor, so I went for Quoddy. I find the styling less attractive than Sebago but I just can’t spend for such a low level of quality.
I also agree that there is something that is just not right about the LP model. Simon started the article by saying boat shoes look best when beaten up, but these given the impression of shoes that you wear for one summer then throw away. As a sailor myself, they also don’t give the impression of shoes that one could wear on a sail boat. They look like they would be destroyed within a week.
Thanks Andrew. I actually said traditional boat shoes look best that way, deliberately, and that Paraboot is the best I tried for that traditional style.
It’s not what the LP is trying to be. You don’t wear them to go sailing or to do anything anywhere near as practical. But they are a very stylish urban version, in my view.
I guess it depends on how one uses boat shoes. I don’t wear trainers and use boat shoes in the place of them. I never really thought of boat shoes as shoes that weren’t to be worn in the city, but rather like shoes to wear very casually and to beat up. In that context, the LP boat shoes don’t look right to me but that may be partially because they don’t really fit in the context I wear boat shoes.
Just looked it up and apparently in 2017 they were acquired by the same Italian holding company that owns Kappa and Superga – almost certainly the explanation.
Hi Simon,
A nice continuation from Monday’s post. Sebago has always been my favourite. I think it’s worth readers noting they do an extensive range. The Portland NBK and Portland Fleshout are both particularly good in my opinion. I personally prefer the lighter coloured soles for a summer holiday shoe and perfect with chinos, faded jeans (that are a little too short) and shorts. Also there are differences on the patterns of the soles for grip on teak decks.
Also some have a leather lining or are unlined.
Thanks again for the article.
I’m surprised to read that you think boat shoes have become a bit of a trend in the past year. They’ve been around for decades! What I think has perhaps happened, though, is that some makers are trying to position them as “fashion” items.
A lot of the models you feature here are quite authentic, but there is much to be said for moving away from the browns/beiges and go for some of the more colourful iterations, which are still based on the original shoes. Tims, Sperry, Sebago make “real” boat shoes designed to keep you from slipping on deck, but which can also be worn as part of a shoreside casual wardrobe.
As with most menswear, the two things exist in parallel Aimee – they have been around for decades, and they have become a bit of a trend. When fashion brands are featuring them, even womenswear ones, and smaller menswear brands and shops too, then it’s a trend!
Very true. I have a few pairs of Sebago’s Clovehitch boat shoes. They have a thick non-slip sole designed specifically for sailing. It’s frustrating that the current model has a narrower fit and the wider fits are no longer available in the UK.
For daily wear, Timberland’s classics are worth considering. Mine have worn well over the years and resoled cheaply by Timpson’s. Several of the current range have been reduced to 50% off in the summer sale. I’ve just ordered another pair which have uppers made from CF Stead’s leather.
I should have mentioned that the replacement soles on my Timberland classics (and lugs too) were Vibrams. Timpson’s now charges £70 which is around the price of a new pair in the sales.
WJ French, a store based in Southampton, also charges £70 to resole Sebago Docksides – https://www.wjfrenchandson.co.uk/repairs-i26. I can’t think of anyone else that offers this service and would welcome any suggestions.
Question slightly off topic: shoe trees in boat shoes? Necessary? I do, but I wonder if it is worth the fuss. I tried Sperry (not really good), Durbarry (worse), Redwing (don’t know if they still make them, they were quite nice) and Sebago (best I had, no need to search further).
Nice to hear on Sebago, Andy.
No, I don’t use shoe trees
Quoddy did a great collab with Albam when it was run by Alastair and James. Still going strong. I would only wear then with shorts, though.
I still have mine in black. They could do with a resole I think. Do you know what Alastair and James are up to now?
Frustratingly a lot of the Sebago styles come with a blue/red tag on the side (similar to the Paraboot green tag), and this put me off. I’ve worn Sperry for a few years and they’re very comfortable once I found the right size; they tend to come up a bit small.
Do you consider boat shoes Ivy style? I was surprised not to see boat shoes in Wednesday’s Nantucket post.
Yes I think, but the style of course later broadened and brought in various styles, indeed that experimentation in the student variations of Ivy was one of the most interesting things about it
If you don’t like them, just cut off the tags on Sebagos and Paraboots with scissors or a razor blade.
I find it can be tricky to both not leave a fringe and not cut the stitching
Hi James, regarding your comment on the lack of leather boat shoes in the Nantucket post: Even though the classic leather Top Sider was invented in the late 1930s, the first “boat shoe” Paul Sperry made with the non-slip sole was actually the canvas upper CVO in 1935. That style and its future iterations remained very popular with sailors up into the 1960s due to its low cost and pure functionality. As I’m sure you know, there are plenty of photos of JFK, Paul Newman and other famous gentlemen wearing CVOs during that era. Leather Top Siders really started to hit their peak of popularity as casual footwear in the mid-1960s. Since the photos in the Pink Heap article are from 1957 and feature people who are actual sailors, it’s not that surprising that most of them are wearing the beat up canvas CVOs. Although it does look like one person is sporting the leather Top Siders in the 8th photo in Simon’s post. Clearly that gentleman was a fashion trailblazer in 1950s Nantucket! Cheers!
Wonderful, thank you John
My pleasure. Just to add one more piece of information: much the same way as chinos, desert boots, trench coats and pea coats gained popularity in men’s style due in large part to their connection to military uniforms, Sperry Top-Siders became standard issue in the U.S. Navy in 1939 and were used extensively in WWII. There’s sometimes a little confusion about what type of Top-Sider was used by the Navy, especially since today we use “Top-Siders” and “boat shoes” to almost exclusively refer to the leather versions. But the Navy issued the canvas CVOs with the black rubber sole. So, again, it’s not that surprising to see men in 1950s Nantucket using canvas rather than leather boat shoes since many of them (or their fathers or older brothers) would have worn a similar CVO style during their miltary service and knew how functional it was. Apologies for spilling more digital ink on this topic; I just geek out a little over the history behind key pieces of classic menswear. Cheers!
Not at all, all good. Thanks John
John, when did the slight heel arrive on boat shoes? I seem to remember buying a couple of pairs in the 80’s that had completely flat soles, which looked so much better. I can’t remember which brand – may have been Timberlands or Bass
That’s probably a reflection of a change in use. The slight heel is more practical and comfortable for actual walking, I find. The Yuketens don’t have it and you notice
I’ve got a pair from Sperry, I’ve had a pain breaking them in due to the stiffness in the heel which has led to me almost never wearing them – it’s been about two weeks and my they still haven’t recovered from rubbing the skin away completely from a very brief walk to the shops (10 minutes, tops). Socks are probably needed for breaking them in but with the width of my feet they look a bit weird even without. May try one of the others on the list at some point.
With your second paragraph when I was in sixth form/early university and knew nothing about clothes at all that is exactly what led to me buying a pair and wearing them as my main shoe (all year round!). I didn’t want to just wear trainers but didn’t want anything smarter. In hindsight I would have been better served with just trainers or boots at the time and when I started to learn I ended up put off boat shoes for years.
Sebago Docksides have been my go to boat shoe for years – comfort, durability and an ability to shrug off a regular wetting seems to me to be more important with shoes designed to do a particular (low/non-slip) job than how they look when worn ashore; that said they do look good and add a particular dimension (rugged/purposeful) to the wearer when they are well beaten up.
The type I like (which may or may not technically be boat shoes) are the Ranger Mocs and equivalent from rancourt/oak street bookmakers. They don’t have the lacing around the side/heel, and have an extra eyelet. They therefore are the same level of formality and with a similar look as a boat shoe, but to me aren’t a boat shoe and don’t look quite like one. Therefore they don’t have the same connotations (in the UK at least) of being the standard shoe worn by every Home Counties middle class man for the last 20 years. They also offer a bit more support/grip for use as a beater shoe.
Yes, that’s not really a boat shoe – the moccasin origin, but taken in a more outdoors direction
I look forward to the Saman Amel review. I bought some at a recent trunk show before they were released and I have found them to be very comfortable wearing around town and to work. I love how they blend between a formal and casual shoe, but of course I would like to hear your thoughts as well.
You’ve shown us a good selection of leathers and colours. Many of us will only want the one pair. When worn with navy or khaki chinos or shorts, which would you feel the most useful?
I’d say any that are dark enough to look good with the navy
Hi Simon,
I’m just curious to canvas your thoughts on the Baudoin and Lange Deck shoes that you mentioned briefly some time past. I bought a pair of these shoes – and they certainly were a very elegant option. I was wondering if you think they could rival the LP shoes you’ve mentioned here in terms of quality and use?
Sorry, which shoes were those? They don’t do a deck shoe unless I’m having a mind blank
Simon,
See the link below where they you mentioned them briefly towards the end.
You obviously have not worn them so much, but it was uncanny when I looked at the sleekness of the LP shoes in this article and immediately saw a similarity to B&L Decks. Having worn these for the past few years, I find that they are an elegant and comfortable. They also don’t appear to be as dandy as some of the other B&L loafers.
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2022/04/spring-top-10-fun-paper-and-lavender.html
Oh yes! Thank you Joe. Those are similar to the LPs in aesthetic. It looks like B&L don’t make them anymore though, I can ask them why
They did in the past. Sagan Decks were called. Very similar to the LP
I have worn boat shoes for 40 years. Real boat shoes have a white sole to keep from scuffing a boat deck. The most classic look is chromexel with a white sole and white laces. While there are global brands, a lot of them were made around Lisbon, Maine by companies like Sebago, Dexter, Sperry, Quoddy and others. I usually only wear them with shorts.
My favorite for years was the classic Sherry two eyelet version. It was hand stitched and lasted ten years or so. Sadly, Sperry was bought out years ago and production moved to China. It’s never been the same.
My current pair is a Quoddy three eyelet version. Classic. Expensive, but handmade in the old way. I recommend moisturizing once a month or so to keep the leather flexible. I have no fear using them in the rain, water, etc … Just clean and moisturize. Quoddy offers a revitalization service where they will repair any damage and replace the soles. I used it and they came back looking brand new. Mine are seven years old and look and feel great.
I personally wouldn’t bother with the wannabe’s. Get a real pair and take care of them.
Certainly with you on the moisturising/cream now and again. Most are made with a waxier leather in order to be more mouldable and waterproof, and it’s good to keep this topped up
Real boat shoes must be wearable in a boat (even if you do not need to). So the only real boat shoes are Sebago, Sperry Topsider and Timberland.
Thanks Petronio, though we can be a little more open-minded than that I think, otherwise we would be denied a lot of menswear that has evolved from it’s original use
I think Petronio is echoing my point. If they can’t be worn on a boat, they are not boat shoes, but only lookalikes. So why have a lookalike when you can have the real thing?
Because if we always went by that principle, we’d lose most menswear. We’d only have big old US military chinos rather than anything more modern, we’d only have T-shirts cut as undershirts, and so on
Hi again Simon!!
Sorry, but just my point that if I want to wear a boat shoe I’d buy a real boat shoe. Not one that mimics it but isn’t. Of course others may think differently!
Thanks Aimee, yes understood. We can change the name if we want, but my point is a boat shoe can be changed slightly and be both useful and stylish in other contexts, which is what these other shoes are designed for. They’re not designed to be a boat shoe in the way you want one
Ha, just when I started to consider a pair of Boat-Shoes for myself.
As mentioned in another article (I think it has been about associations or about the sweater over the shoulder) I already mentioned, that Boat-Shoes give of a certain vibe here in Germany, especially around young men. They’re perceived as old-manish, old-money in a bad way and very conservative. The classic look is a Boat-Shoe (preferably Timberland with the thick vibram-like soles) combined with a khaki or cream chino trouser, untucked ocbd from Ralph Lauren (a must!) and of course a navy knit thrown over the shoulders.
This association (and the fact, that I probably already own too many shoes lol), is what keeps me of buying some. But I considered the Paraboot Barth for the same reasons as you did Simon. And I see the same downsides of this shoe as well, albeit I really love the classic americana-look they have.
Maybea a follow-up article on how to wear boat shoes without associations would be great?
Considering their practicality and their ability to set one apart from the white-sneaker crowd I really like the idea of owning a pair. Also imo in the same category a desert boot, especially the smarter versions like the one from Drake’s, Ghiaia or Anglo-Italian offer a similar bridge between better dressed but total no-brainer as well!
Sure Amon, nice idea.
My three key approaches would be:
– Update that old look in the way Drake’s does or has done so well
– Go more western or fashion, eg with a denim shirt, with black etc
– Go more streetwear, as has been done so well recently, so a hoodie with the big chinos
Thanks for the suggestions Simon. I need to dig the Drake‘s Archive again for inspiration in that boat-shoe regard!
Hi Simon,
Great write up, as always.
I own the exact same pair of Yuketen’s. When I received them, I was immediately impressed by the quality – leather, construction, all the details like stitching, finishing, etc. Although at that price point I guess I shouldn’t be.
I agree with the “soft and sloppy” description though. These should fare better for lounging and light walking rather than pounding the pavement. However I feel the same about by Quoddy’s. Maybe I should try the Paraboot or Sebago for something a bit sturdier.
Also, I agree with the reader that mentioned moisturizing once a month. There are specific products for oiled leather like the chromexcel used by Quoddy, Yuketen and others.
Best,
V.
In this general category, I have had good experience with Maine-based Rancourt (mentioned previously) and their Gilman Camp Moc in Chromexel which is available in other leathers. Some “boat shoe” details though with a taller vamp which is to my liking. They were comfortable out of the box and have proven very durable over last 5-6 years. I believe they can be resoled, but not 100% on that. Rancourt also make what they call “boat shoes” which seem to adhere to the white sole criteria.
One “rabbit hole” detail I do not yet see mentioned is the structure of what I believe to be the traditional outsole of “boat shoes” which is a series of fine, parallel, zig zag slits. The technical term may be “siping” and I believe is intended to provide improved traction on wet surfaces (e.g. boat decks). Curious to hear the PS-sphere’s feedback on this.
Yes, I’d like to try Rancourt some time.
On the sole, yes that was the original pattern wasn’t it, cut with a pen knife for grip. I don’t think it really matters that much as long as there is some kind of grip there
Simon, i think you would maybe like their Ranger Moc, very versatile and useful for travelling. Quality is good. But maybe too casual for your taste. Years ago before Corona they had a made to order custom option with different kinds of leather etc. I own some of them and they are great.
Boat shoes: I did try several brands over the years. For traditional real boat shoes i would still prefer SEBAGOS or probably PARABOOT (never tried them). Quoddy also good, but can be a bit inconsistent in the sizing over the years. Their chromexcel leather is nice, but it widens a bit with wear, this should be considered with the sizing (especially width). I use the Venetian Cream for care, SAPHIR also have a special cream for chromexcel.
I did try the SPERRY boat shoes once and think their quality (now) is low. The ones i had were made in Indonesia. Very little structure, quite thin and low quality leather. They can be used on a boat or on the beach, but as a casual city shoe i would not recommend them.
I do not own the boat shoe style from LORO PIANA, but think the construction style is probably a bit similar like their Summer Walk which i find very comfortable. This is a shoe suited for yacht owners in St. Tropez, Monaco or Marbella i would say. The LP products i own (Cashmere coat and sweaters, Summer Walk loafer) are of really good quality in my opinion. Maybe a bit overpriced, but the quality and style is there.
I know nothing of the quality or comfort, but visually the version morjas makes are one of the best looking IMO
Just because Loro Piana makes a version doesn’t mean they’re not ugly. If one feels compelled to way overpay, at least the LP Summer Walk (or its many knock offs) is an attractive shoe. Or just stick with a nice driving moc and leave the boat shoes back in 80s where they belong with Huckapoo shirts.
Thanks Mark, but personally I think the opposite. The Summer Walk is not an attractive shoe to my eye, with its lack of laces. It looks like a cheap leather slip-on. But the boat shoe here is an attractive design
A question. Why do you like B&L Sagans but not the look of the LP Summet Walks?
To my eye the apron section on top of the Summer Walk is too large and irregular to be uninterrupted. On the Sagan it is a little smaller and a more regular shape – one looks like it has been designed for style, the other primarily for functionality
We’re mostly aligned but it’s ok if it’s not 100% of the time. (For example, I think Alden gunboats can look pretty good with a pair of flannel trousers and a blazer, and I believe you’re not a fan of those either.) Also, I misspoke, I meant to say the LP OPEN Walk. Although they don’t have laces either, I think they are a sharp casual alternative to trainers or desert boots.
Thanks Mark, definitely the right attitude!
I’m afraid to say I think the Open Walk is worse, design wise, probably because the height leaves that area more open.
For those in the States, I will put in my recommendation for Oak Street Boot makers in Chicago.
-Mid priced- $250
-Resoleable Vibram soles
-Good quality leather (Horween) without the finest price tag
I’ve had a pair of beat to hell moccasins going on 8 years strong.
When I moved to South Florida in the early ’80s, everyone wore Sperry Topsiders. I bought the Timberland version ands never considered anything else. My second pair is now almost 30 years old, beat to hell, and going strong. I don’t remember what happened to the first pair, but when I had to replace them I never considered any other brand.
And I’ll echo that Andy. Bought a pair of Timberlands with my first pay cheque back in 1987 and the uppers are in amazing condition and the soles are still going strong too.
Like most things, I’ve got no doubt todays versions are not made to the same standard which is a shame.
The dark brown Timberland classics have high quality uppers – https://www.timberland.co.uk/en-gb/p/men-10029/classic-boat-shoe-for-men-in-brown-TB025077214. The standard looks as good as ever to my eyes and the website claims that the construction is handsewn. However, some of the classic range appear to have inferior uppers and there is no mention of handsewn construction. It’s worth checking and trying them on in store before paying full price.
I have worn my Paraboot Barth to death each of the last three summers and they look better than ever with a quick condition once in a while. Rugged and practical and not too “old man-ish” imho
The Barth, do you find it true to size? Or size down as som websites recommend?
Personally I’ve always liked the look of rough out leathers with boat shoes/moccasins for casual wear, the texture and aging of rough out along with it’s robustness lends itself perfectly to the more casual and pragmatic style of these shoes. It’s also a great way to stray away from (in the US) the more collegiate fraternity connotations these shoes can carry with them now. Oak Street boot makers makes a great option in natural chromexcel rough out.
Nice point Garrett, yes
Thank you, Simon!
A timely article as summer has finally arrived here in the Netherlands.
Just throwing my mixed metaphors into the ring to add to those impressed by Sebago. I have a navy pair which have sun-faded into a softer blue.
A company large enough to have good sales. I lump them into the workware space and am never too precious with them.
Simon, off topic but what do you think of these white penny-style Baudoin Lange loafers?
https://baudoinlange.com/products/sagan-ginkgo-in-blanc-casse-drape-calf-1
Found them on serious discount online, I think they would work well with old vintage black jeans and a t shirt for a high low look but not really seeing the combo for chinos or shorts. Perhaps ecru jeans as well but definitely not blue jeans.
Maybe drapey chinos like how Andre wore his white lace ups in his How To Dress Like article. I’d love to fit them in to my more casual style (jeans, chinos, fatigues – with t shirts and button ups) but unsure about this combo. Spare any advice?
Thanks!
I think they would always be pretty unusual and a little dainty, unlike say white bucks. It would be a bit of a look. But I do think they could be good with blue jeans too – if only because they’d look better on a sunny day as well
Hey, much appreciate the two cents! Mind me asking where you think the daintyness is coming in from? Asking as I have been considering lately more feminine / soft introductions to my wardrobe recently, like in the style of grecian brycelands slippers or bowhill & ellliots. Like in the way that Ethan can wear ripped up old jeans with grecians and an old shirt, its such a nice juxtaposition of rugged and soft.
Thanks Again!
I think the daintiness comes from the soft construction and leather, and then the longer last shape. The grecians and slippers are a little more solid and rounder-toed – even a regular brown-suede Sagan is a little dainty, but it’s alright in those darker or more classic colours.
Not saying it won’t work, just a little more of a look – working from the shoes upwards, for sunny days, and still standing out a bit
Really like the look of the Yuketens. What makes them feel “sloppier” than the other options?
There’s less construction in the way they are made and it’s a soft leather, though thick. They’re more authentically like a moccasin, which of course was very soft, but also not designed for being used the way we use shoes today
A very interesting and successful article about boat shoes, Simon.
I have collected wearing experience with my „seven pairs“ of boats. One pair are Sebago docksides in tan suede and the other pairs from Timberlands. Those makers are relatively accessible in Germany.
The Timberlands are in a dark brown suede, dark brown leather and an unusual pair of dark denim. They all share the white color of the flat soles. And the initial blisters at the Achille’s heels that came and got away after breaking them in. Some pairs of them have already many years of mileage, without being spared from wet summer weather. Then the leather ones will be preferred.
Color wise I would second your earlier reply, Simon, that the darkest brown is the best color to combine them with various trousers colors or lengths. Therefore the sebagos don’t get as much wear as they would deserve.
I just took off my boat shoes an hour ago (out car shopping). I’ve got two pairs (brown and oxblood) from Sperry. Running shoes had been my default casual shoe for decades. Then I began to get a glimmer of style awareness and upped that to desert boots. That evolved to boat shoes. I wear them from April until October. Then it’s back to desert boots.
Will share my experience here. I have an old pair of Allen Edmonds boat shoes that are about 12 or 14 years old. They were the second better quality shoe I bought when I was first getting into menswear (black oxfords were first). I never found them too comfortable without socks. They’re not my favourite shoe but I turn to them frequently in the summer.
While conditioning the shoes last week I noticed that the leather near my baby toe is starting crack. I don’t feel they owe me much after so long. Thanks for the review. Very timely. That being said, I’ll probably look at either Paraboot or Quoddy next. Whatever fits my foot best (preference would be Quoddy as there’s no label).
Simon, would you mind sharing what size you take on the Paraboot and Yuketen? I believe we wear the same size (8.5 UK in EG). I understand each feet is unique but it would help to have a general idea of sizing with these brands. Thanks.
Hey Victor,
I’m away from home the next couple of weeks so I can’t for a while I’m afraid. But remind me later if you want and I’ll check then
Will do, thank you Simon.
Have you seen the ones from Carmina. They look pretty cool and sophisticated but also significantly more different and built up than a regular boat shoes
I’ve seen the MTO system online, which is pretty cool, but no other experience of them. I wouldn’t say there seems to be that much different about them otherwise
I would add Rancourt & Co. to your consideration set.
They are largely MTO. Quality and style are a tad below Yuketen but way above Quoddy. You can get them in unlined shell, croc, as well as chromexcel, and suede. They are recraftable, and come in four widths from narrow to extra wide. I prefer the Ranger Mocs (https://www.rancourtandcompany.com/collections/mocs/products/classic-ranger-moc-carolina-brown-chromexcel) over the boat shoes with the wrap-around Reltex Lactae Hevea sole they are the platonic ideal of s casual shoe that looks good but can walk around in all day long. The RMs can also be laced up tight.
They also offer a trial set that helps you figure out sizing for MTO: https://www.rancourtandcompany.com/products/made-to-fit-fit-trial-loafer. I don’t think any other moccasin maker comes close to providing all these options. They have undergone some major changes recently, but my recent experience has been overwhelmingly positive. They have preorder sales a couple of times per year, which is a fantastic value.
The horsebit loafers (https://www.rancourtandcompany.com/collections/loafers/products/horsebit-loafers-dark-brown-calf-1) are nice if you want something dressier..
Take a look at some Rancourt models at Leffot next time you are in NYC.
Thanks Dimitry, yes I know the Rancourt guys and would love to try some some time. Thanks for the rundown
I basically live in boat shoes during summer, I have an old pair of Docksides and they look great a little beat up.
The only issue with these is that because of the blake stitching, if you step in water, it seeps through the stitching by capillarity and you get your feet wet.
Nice piece, as always. I always quite liked the way boat shoes are sometimes worn in the cities of Spain; light casual ones, often in navy or even green or red. Much nicer to my eye than the chunkier brown leather boat shoes (which I associate with preppy upper middle class Dutch people who would pair them with chinos and sailing attire, but not in an attractive way). I’ll stick to my loafers (including the Tods gomminos which I know Simon doesn’t like very much) and espadrilles in spring/summer, and desert boots and the like in fall/winter but I do appreciate the appeal of these boat shoes.
I bought a pair of the yuketan’s a couple of years ago and absolutely love them. Incredibly comfortable as the review reports and great in all weathers as I learned at a rainy music festival last year! The reason I bought them though was the unusual and fun style and fact it was absolutely not a boat shoe.
Any views on colour, Simon? I noticed you have shown the full range from white, tan, brown and black. I have had blue with white stitching in the past which I liked but are less versatile. The brown to me have old mannish / Timberland associations with them.
Blue isn’t great, but then most blue shoes aren’t.
I’d say dark brown or tan is the most useful. Black is more niche and less versatile but can be very cool
I respectfully disagree with this for boat shoes. I think navy looks great with a pair of white or kaki shorts and a plain t-shirt or ocbd. Especially on a boat in the Mediterranean on a sunny day.
Hi Simon
An interesting and informative post as always. On the subject of shape and quality, I might have another interesting addition to your line-up.
https://oakstreetbootmakers.com/footwear/moccasins/camp-moc?___store=default
I have a pair of Penny loafers from Oak Street and they use a good quality leather from Horween and the make is also solid. The shape however, is more suited to wearing them with shorts.
I am tempted to buy a pair of their boat shoes and would be interested to hear what you think about them.
Best regards
Arndt
Thanks Arndt – yes a few people have make that recommendation above.
Certainly a strong endorsement from me for Baudoin & Lange’s deck shoes.
However I’m not sure they are regularly stocked any more, although they do come up in their sale from time to time.
I bought the green version with the beige sole (not white).
I’ve worn them daily around all the Florida Theme Parks (Disney and Universal) for 2 years running and they are still just as strong as they were when new.
Plus they are just enough smart to stand out amongst a sea of Fit Flops, Sketchers and On Clouds without anyone quite knowing why.
The modern boat shoe was invented in 1935 by Paul Sperry of New Haven, Connecticut. I’ve been wearing the Sperry Top-Siders since the 1960s. Lately I’ve been buying the Gold Cup model which has more padding. Very comfortable and durable and they don’t mind getting wet 😉
I echo James’ comment endorsing the Sperry Gold Cup model. This line differs significantly from the company’s more generic offerings.
I’ve worn boat shoes since college, more than fifty years ago. Like all of my cohort, I wore the original Sperry Todpsider, made in a dyed burgundy waxed leather over a white, soft-rubber slit sole. They did pretty well, but succumbed to age and the rigors of a rafting trip. Their sad end led me to boat shoes made by Timberland. This was when the light-tan colored Timberland boot’ with heavy Vibram soles was the rage. The boat shoes were available with a natural-colored Vibram deck-shoe sole, which is better suited to year-round wear here in northeastern Ohio. That pair lasted a long time.
Alas, when the time came to replace them I found that the quality of the Timberland boat shoe had slipped. I learned of the Russell Moccasin Company, whose reputation was made upon moccasin-style hunting boots. They were able to make a pair of boat shoes to my measure. Hot damn! In those days each pair of Russells was crafted from a drawing of the wearer’s foot. Wanting something really tough, I went to the extreme of specifying a 3-eyelet design with a full lining and a two-layer upper of a sturdy calfskin. That pair of boat shoes had no trouble handling year-round wear here in northeastern Ohio (n.b., bear in mind that boat soles are terrible on ice). Not surprisingly, they were heavy. They also were made in true Russell fashion: employing a true-moccasin design, the shoe cannot be made to include arch support.
After a few years I began a search for something lighter in weight, off-the-rack but well-made. I found that many makers of better-quality boat shoes had taken to offering what looked to a “technical” sole, shrinking the availability of the traditional boat shoe. Doubtlessly such soles work better for actual sailing. Personally, I dislike an aesthetic that reminds me of Rockports. (“Dad shoes”?) I found a boat shoe offered by DuBarry of Ireland. These were pretty good, but as they became worn I was disappointed to realize that the shoe did not have a fully-leather upper.
The demise of the DuBarry’s brought me to the on-line marketplace. I wanted a high-quality, durable boat shoe. I was willing to pay for it. The culmination of that quest is my pair of Sperry Gold Cup Authentic Original Boat Shoes. The Gold Cup line is handcrafted in Maine, and looks it. The shoe is handsome and the construction, stitching, and finish are excellent. I wear the shoes barefoot; they have molded to my feet exactly as you’d want them to do so. They wear well and certainly can handle problematic weather. They can be resoled. The quality of the shoes justify the comparatively high prices.
It’s worth mention that the first pair sent to me fit smaller than expected. Sperry smoothly handled the exchange for the next size. All in all, I offer a ringing endorsement for the company and this model.
A footnote (sorry): I later purchased a pair of the Sperry Gold Cup Handcrafted in Maine 1-Eye Driver. This is a driving shoe that features the traditional (i.e., JP Tod’s) pebble sole. They’re equally well-made, but betray the frailty of the design for the sole. This shoe really cannot withstand much wear on any outdoor surface. After one season the sole provided a clear demonstration of the wearer’s gait and balance, and the rubber nubs experienced more wear than expected. Two years in, they’ve become a pair of house slippers.
Astorflex boat flex might be a nice option for people – probably not great on an actual boat with crepe soles, but as Simon says – as a comfortable alternative to trainers. Probably too chunky for Simon’s taste, but maybe for someone less concerned with elegance, more concerned with avoiding the old mannish associations, they could be nice.
I picked up a pair of Sperry Topsiders which look very similar to those Paraboot. They’ve held up well and I wear them most days. I didn’t pay anywhere near full retail.
I think driving mocs fit into this category. I find the city gomino (with the sole that covers the entire bottom, for practical reasons) to be a supremely comfortable summer shoe. Although the upper near the heel can get worn quickly. There’s no need to ever pay full retail for these.
Those Loro Piana look incredible.
Thanks Simon.
There’s certainly a wide spectrum of options available these days – I’ve worn boat shoes as a very practical choice first as a kid in and out of canoes and the water all summer, though often they were closer to moccasins than Sperry topsiders ~ whatever was in stock that summer at the general store near the cottage.
I’ve had plenty of Sperries, LL Bean and more recently Quoddy, but find the more structure is in the shoe the less comfortable it is as everyday summer footwear for on the boat, on the dock, or a beer garden with the dog.
I’ve become fond of Laurentian Chief ‘boat moccasins’ ~ very much the originnal concept of a solf hand-sewn moccasin upper with a rubber sole added. They’re all made in Canada and the company also makes a wide range of moccasins which while perhaps of less interest to readers here, are producer mostly by indigenous artisans in Canada.
For me it’s a sweet spot for practicality and comfort, and to my tase a boat shoe that melds form and function.
I also have a pair of Hiawatha’s leather sole version which is a great summer slipper for the cottage, and the moose hide ages nicely – more of a true moccasin (picture from link) without the addition of a rubber sole.
https://laurentianchief.com/en/moccasins/13591-31381-laurentian-chief-moccasin-single-lacing-insole-crepex-natural-sole.html#/223-size-10/235-gender-m/317-color-rk
https://www.whetung.com/products/bastien-mens-193
Wonderful, I’d never heard of either. Thanks Zac
In my early 20s, I often wore Sebagos, but eventually, I switched to sneakers and loafers. Recently, inspired by the advertising from Saman Amel and Morjas, I decided to revisit my old favorite style. I purchased a pair of Paraboot Barth in sand suede from Lund & Lund earlier this summer, and I couldn’t be happier. They were comfortable right from the start and are very versatile. I wear them with shorts, jeans, and chinos, both for work and on weekends.
Simon, useful article as always! A couple of quick questions.
You mention the Loro is your favourite, but doesn’t offer good value. I wonder how much you’d put their “real” value at, or how much you would be happy paying for them?
Secondly, when I’ve looked at boat shoes I’ve seen quite a bit intersection with moccasins. Forgive my ignorance, but I thought a boat shoe was something distinct from a moccasin?
My understanding was boat shoes were originally designed for wearing at sea and have nautical design features accordingly (hence the lace running through the side eyelets, emulating portholes).
Moccasins (like the Yuketen) don’t seem to have the nautical connotations or design features, so I find it odd that they’re lumped together with boat shoes.
Hey Charlie,
Moccasins came first, originally a Native American piece of footwear I believe. The way they were made was then mimicked on lots of shoes in the future – hence ‘moccasin construction’. This includes the way the apron is hand-sewn to the rest of the shoe at the front, and the lace that runs around the outside of the shoe, in theory to tighten it around the foot. Boat shoes were an extension of this type of construction, as is something like a tassel loafer.
On Loro Piana, I don’t know perhaps £400-£500? It is a very well-made shoe, but it depends whether you’re discounting all of the retail part of the value, or just advertising etc.
Thanks Simon, really interesting.
It sounds silly, but honestly I’ve always felt a bit uncomfortable with the idea of wearing a boat shoe without owning a boat or having any interest in sailing.
Of course, I know the vast majority of boat shoe wearers have no interest in boats… and I know many boat shoes aren’t even made to be worn on boats.
But having known (snobby) university mates who spent a lot of time on boats, and heard them crack jokes about people wearing boat shoes, it always stuck in my head.
It comes back to your earlier piece around how certain things have connotations for us.
For me, boat shoes have the slight connotation of someone aspiring to look wealthier than they actually are?
Not quite as bad as someone wearing a fake Rolex, but along those lines.
Seems faintly ridiculous written down, but then again most connotations are, right?
And I know you’ll agree that wearing anything purely to say something about your wealth status is bad form, so I think you’ll sort of get where the concern comes from.
I’m not from a public school background myself, so I have no idea whether this it is something that’s widely commented on – I’m also (unsurprisingly) no longer mates with the snobs!
I think the look of an elite northeastern US person is definitely something that has associations for many people, good and bad, but not owning a boat is pretty silly I think and wouldn’t apply to almost anyone. You might as well say you can’t wear Converse unless you play basketball or Vans unless you skate
See, to be fair, I actually wouldn’t wear Vans!
Agree the idea that you can’t wear boat shoes if you’re not using them on boats is ridiculous, just one of those hang ups I’ve carried with me without really questioning.
But Vans to me are so synonymous with skateboarding (and maybe metal/punk of a certain era), and they are such culturally distinct niches, it just crosses that line for me.
There’s an element of it that can feel like you’re appropriating part of a culture for your own benefit, but without really paying your dues. And if elements of a culture lose their meaning, they lose their distinctiveness.
Converse feels different because no one actually plays basketball in that style shoe anymore. I guess for me it’s not that dissimilar to some of the points you were discussing in the stolen valour piece – time passing means these things become more open to reinvention. Because their original meaning starts to fade, it’s easier to play around at the edges?
All this stuff is obviously personal taste, too, not saying I’m right!
No they’re very good points Charlie, and it all exists on a spectrum. I can completely see how someone would think Vans are difference to Converse, and for some people they will be. For me, you have to go further along the spectrum to the point where people wear band tees when they don’t even like the music
Haha, yes, definitely agree on the band tees point!
Another great article, boat/deck shoes are certainly making a comeback it would seem. I have several and a few moccasin style as well. A few Sebago, a few timberland, yogi and red wings. The classic Timberland in the dark mahogany leather are my favourites, have both the 2 eye deck and 3 eye lug sole. The colour is fantastic, go with everything, one for summer and one for winter! Also a big fan of the sebago, they do some great mocs as well but like others have mentioned i think the quality has dropped in recent years.
Thanks Kieran, useful feedback
Noted you mentioned narrow heels. Any particular brand shoes you would recommend that caters for this chelsea or chukka boots. I also have fun and games finding good fitting pairs.
I actually find boots a lot easier Dom, because there is something above the ankle to hold the shoe on. But much more chukkas than chelseas, as you have laces to make the adjustment. Do you have issues even with chukkas?
Yes I find my heel slaps about all over the place without grips/padding on the tongue – probably a case of being blessed with size 11 feat lengthwise and i just have a suspicion the likes of crocket make the 11 a big fit as a catch all. Good article by the way. Paraboots very good. I also have a pair from loakes. Their shoes normally need a lot of breaking in but these great from the off. Waxed finish and looking great with wear.
I’ve been a fan of Quoddy for ages and in the US site you can design your own with quite a number of variables. They do take quite a few wears to soften up, which possibly Simon you may not have done (?), but once ‘run in’ they’re the most comfortable I’ve ever owned. Note that US pricing does not include UK tax – my last pair were about £350 from memory.
Thanks Jamie, that is a fair bit. I guess I’ve worn them 20 times or so, perhaps it does need longer
Hello from Berlin, as a frequent reader of PS I admired also this overview on boatsshoes. I own a pair of navy leather with white soles and laces from Sebago. One of their classics now almost over 10 years.They became better with age are realy hart wearing and never trouble for my feets. So I think they are value for not to much money and absolute timeless and almost suitable with most spring/ summer early autumn outfits in a casual context.
Greetings from Germany and I look forward on your next issue, André
As a fan of mocs, the article was a fun read. My current go-to for the summer is a pair of Rancourt boat mocs with RLH soles in Horween Natural Essex – produced with the same process as their shell cordovan with the potential for some beautiful patina. They are my most comfortable shoes and find they go with a wide variety of my wardrobe. I recently discovered that Alden Madison has makeups of ranger mocs – lesser known than the LHS but a (IMO) handsome casual to smart casual shoe, especially in snuff suede or color 8 shell cordovan.
Hi Simon,
I tried a few of the models you showed here and I have to add a detail about Paraboot vs. other conventional boat shoes (sebago, sperry, rl, all brands I’ve been wearing since I was a teenager). Paraboot is the only one that doesn’t give me blisters even if I wear them without socks the first time. All the others require time to adapt. And the first few times cause a decent amount of suffering. I thought it was just me but then discovered the same applies to a couple of friends
Hello.
Great article. Just to share my experience:
1. It’s really hard to buy some american made brands in Europe – I wore Sebago for +10 years and this year I needed a couple ou new pairs, and that proved to be a challenge – the physical retailers with Sebago are less and less, and Amazon does’t help.
2. I wanted Sperry Golf Cup’s as in the latest 007 movie because I believe that they have a more timeless and less oldmanish look, but no luck there – they only ship to the USA;
3. Ended up buying Timberlands (crepe soled, faded leather), which, upon research, proved to be the third brand to come up with boat shoes (~20/30 years later that Sebago and Sperry, but still…). Great leather uppers – I haven’t used them a lot but the perceived quality is miles above my latest Sebagos (bought ~1/2 years).
4. Do you feel this limitation? In a globalized world, does it have to be impossible to import a pair of shoes from the US? Same limitation felt for Danner Light Mountain boots, but I’ve already given up there.
Hey Lewis, I bought a pair of Ralph Lauren “Made in USA” Camp Mocs in Europe. Upon further investigation I found out that they are very probably made by Rancourt. Unfortunately the european RL Store doesn’t carry half sizes but if your size is available, maybe that is worth checking out.
I have received a pair of the Beige/Quoddy shoes you featured and they are very comfortable. (More so than my Todd Snyder/LL Bean shoes that I wore last year.) the pads in the sole are great and the leather is softer yet durable. The Chromexel black is gorgeous. I am thoroughly satisfied and grateful for your coverage of this.
I was interested to see your comment regarding the green label on the Paraboot. This has been something that puts me off the brand in general. It recalls for me footwear brands like Pod and Kickers from my schooldays, which I wouldn’t associate with style nowadays. I guess I’m just not into overt branding, which is an entirely personal thing. For example I’d probably not buy an Oni workwear jacket because of their little label at the bottom. I find this kind of branding a bit apologetic, as if it’s been “sneaked in”. I would rather go all out with a massively branded product, like a hugely overt Polo label, if I was going down the “branded” route! I’d be keen to hear your views.
I actually just bought a pair of these last week while on holiday. I have to say I didn’t notice it too much. Certainly the quality was so far above the Sebago options (quite numerous here in Biarritz) that it didn’t put me off.
so yes, it’s not ideally, but given everything else that’s right with them I’d say it’s a very easy trade off for the quality.
Thanks Simon for the write-up. Would be great to have your take on Baudoin & Lange’s version at some point. I have a pair and think they’re great!
I have tried those in the past Nezar, and I liked the make and shape, but not so much the colours, particularly when there was more than one – the LPs here seem much better in that respect
A question from someone whose wife sometimes questions the size of my wardrobe. How many times during the Summer do you wear Boat shoes? And which niche do they have if you already own black and brown unlined loafers, canvas trainers, dresser sandals and espadrilles. And a similar question how often do you wear your Viberg Service boots during the winter?
Ha! So I think Carl, the key here is to settle into one casual style and stick with it. Always keep in mind I am not a good role model here – I try lots of styles in order to be able to cater to lots of readers. If you find your summer shoes work well for you, don’t incorporate a rather different style like boat shoes.
I wear my Viberg maybe 15-20 times a winter. Not as much as others, because again it’s not my main style. It’s more for walking in the woods, anything more outdoorsy like that, which as an urban guy is not that often.
Sebago has a developed a special boat shoe collection in cooperation with Italian leather manufacturer Opera. I bought one pair in Rome earlier this year and the softness of the leather is incredible.
No Sperry? That’s like saying you’re going to talk about bespoke suits and not including any Savile Row tailors. It’s the mother ship of boat shoes.
Great article. Fully agree with your Yuketen assessment. I have the canoe moc (wingtip design detail) and they are a go to. If you like the idea of a boat shoe but can’t get past the connotations, this might be a good choice. More of a loafer/no tongue, intricate details, and different lacing make them feel different enough but wearable in all the same contexts.
On getting them wet – coincidentally enough, it was what I wearing when I visited your NY pop up last fall and they were soaked to the bone. After a few days of drying out and reconditioning with Venetian shoe cream they are as good as new. I do wish they had a midsole for greater comfort but I suppose it would loose the low/sleekness of them. I also have their country ranger and is much more supportive but very heavy (more like a low cut boot).
I think i know your answer here but will ask to spur some conversation- would you ever wear in a business casual setting? I wear my yuketen mocs this way with NMWA/Rota linen pants and it just about works (if not at least i’m comfortable).
I wouldn’t personally, no
I have the Paraboot, and the sole wore down really quicky.
Hi Simon, where is the khaki shirt from? I am referring to the image with the black jeans (full body picture) at the near bottom of the article.
Hey Max – that’s from Rubato. Last year, so not sure they currently offer it