Designing the Anthology polo coat

January 6th 2021

Last year The Anthology asked me to help design a new polo coat they were going to produce. They’ve only gradually added coats to their bespoke offering, but are now doing so more, as they expand into ready-to-wear. Buzz at The Anthology was ...

Designing the Anthology polo coat

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Either would be great, but if you want the casual side as well then perhaps the grey herringbone...

CoatsJanuary 6th 2021

The styles of overcoat (and how to design one)

November 6th 2020

Anyone interested in buying or commissioning a new coat will be thinking about styles right now - what they are, what they’re called, what their relative advantages are. In this piece I’m going to set out the basic options, and my brief...

The styles of overcoat (and how to design one)

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I think you might sacrifice something to style Albert. Perhaps (if having it made) the buttons could be a touch further apart? I'd look at that option first, anyway...

CoatsNovember 6th 2020

Introducing: The Wax Walker

October 28th 2020

Every year for the past four years, I've developed a piece of outerwear with the lovely team at Private White VC in Manchester. The aim each time is to realise my version of a classic piece in the male wardrobe, often with elements that I feel are ...

Introducing: The Wax Walker

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Yes, probably Jakub, though I would check the measurements against a similar coat of yours if you have one...

CoatsOctober 28th 2020

Knitwear and necklines – with Ciardi overco...

October 23rd 2020

My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again. It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a bespoke suit) they are limited to...

Knitwear and necklines – with Ciardi overco...

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Yes that would be right Chris I think. Make sure you specify those finishing points in advance so they don't have to be undone later...

CoatsOctober 23rd 2020

Introducing: The new donegal coat

September 23rd 2020

This is the new Donegal Overcoat - the update on the raglan coat released last year. The only change on that version is the colour and the weight of the cloth. We decided to go with a heavier tweed this year, to make it into a true Winter coat: it'...

Introducing: The new donegal coat

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Hmm. Would you mind emailing me separately Gabriele, and I'll take it up with them? I wouldn't think there would be a difference...

CoatsSeptember 23rd 2020

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

September 7th 2020

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

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I haven't tried it, but yes it would...

Casual clothing - CoatsSeptember 7th 2020

The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...

July 15th 2020

With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept ...

The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...

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Sure Chris. It's not something I wear outside of the house - but I presume that's what you mean? I wear Belgian loafers, or Sagans, but not really slippers...

Casual clothing - CoatsJuly 15th 2020

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

July 13th 2020

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

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Yes, and also bear in mind a lot of other costs, such as developing exclusive materials often, and putting some actual design work into the tailoring. Plus, you'll find the finishing level is better with Attolini than wi...

Coats - Hanks and scarvesJuly 13th 2020

Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

June 8th 2020

*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes bac...

Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

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Early 2023 now I'm afraid...

Casual clothing - CoatsJune 8th 2020

Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI...

April 27th 2020

Benson & Clegg is not a button shop. I didn’t realise until I went in, earlier this year, quite how much it has gained that reputation. It's partly a result of their own good promotion over the years, but perhaps more significantly be...

Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI...

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Interesting to see non-flapped pockets on these old DB overcoats...

Coats - SuitsApril 27th 2020

Grey and lilac: Ralph Lauren style, in Cifonelli

February 26th 2020

I’ve been looking at a lot of old Ralph Lauren imagery in recent months. Because of the 50th anniversary, but also because of the Ivy Style talk we did in New York , where everyone admitted some kind of debt to Ralph, and reading In His Own Fa...

Grey and lilac: Ralph Lauren style, in Cifonelli

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I'm afraid I don't know Dan, sorry...

CoatsFebruary 26th 2020

What makes quality in machine-made clothing?

February 21st 2020

Best investment product: Private White VC Runners up: Alden, Edward Green   What makes one machine-made product better than another? At Permanent Style, the fact we cover mostly smart clothing, and mostly high-end, means handwork is often a...

What makes quality in machine-made clothing?

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I haven't been overwhelmed by the service and quality of products from Private White. I bought a Ventile Frobisher Parka and in the cloth there where places which differed significantly from the rest and were much paler,...

CoatsFebruary 21st 2020

The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...

January 27th 2020

Just before Christmas, I took my belted coat into Whitcomb & Shaftesbury to have it converted into a normal overcoat. As detailed on my original article, this was always a possibility. I began the experiment of a bespoke wrap coat with the...

The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...

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I would certainly he hesitant about playing with the proportions too much, MK, at least until you've worn it a fair bit. Also, if it's a straight cut like that, don't ever just taper the waist. If you want it more shaped...

CoatsJanuary 27th 2020

Wearing black

January 22nd 2020

Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounced with shoes though, a...

Wearing black

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Ok, got that! Many thanks Simon....

Coats - ShoesJanuary 22nd 2020

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

January 8th 2020

Permanent Style prides itself on honest reviews of clothing. Please be reassured that this policy continues in this piece on Michael Browne. Despite the fact that there are basically no negative points. There's just hardly anything bad to say (othe...

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

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I would go for a lightweight wool overcoating John - plain wool if cashmere is too much. Have a look at the Italian bunches, their overcoatings are always pretty light. Or even the wool jacketings from the English mills,...

CoatsJanuary 8th 2020

Pinnas & Needles alterations

January 6th 2020

Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them. Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing, so it sorts out a pro...

Pinnas & Needles alterations

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No, sorry. Any alterations tailor would do. Ideally they'd have some experience with Italian style jackets, but chances are they will given the volume of Italian RTW out there...

Coats - TrousersJanuary 6th 2020

Removable fur lining – from Yves Salomon

December 27th 2019

This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped. It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur specialists Yves Salomon, using sec...

Removable fur lining – from Yves Salomon

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I've left it in there and haven't found it too bulky myself. But if it's something you plan to own for a long time, and not re-sell, then I wouldn't worry about taking it out....

CoatsDecember 27th 2019

Michael Browne: Building the perfect tailor

November 11th 2019

Michael Browne is one of the most talented and creative tailors I’ve known in my time writing PS. He is also one of the nicest. We talked for years about whether and how he would set up on his own, and when he finally did - and moved into the...

Michael Browne: Building the perfect tailor

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Hi VAL, I would certainly put Camps de Luca at the top in that category, yes. Others in Milan and Rome such as the branches of Caraceni also belong in that category, perhaps more so than Liverano. I wouldn't say there is...

CoatsNovember 11th 2019

A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka

October 14th 2019

This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on Friday with an interview about...

A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka

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Thanks M. I find it too bulky, myself, if all buttoned and zipped up. But just buttoning the top couple, and leaving the rest open to move around (and therefore not zipped, as you say) is a great look....

CoatsOctober 14th 2019

Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat

October 2nd 2019

This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat ( shown here) more often than any other last winter. Despite the...

Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat

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Thank you Matthew, great to know...

CoatsOctober 2nd 2019

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...

June 19th 2019

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three gro...

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...

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Thanks. De Bonne Facture are lovely - not always my kind of style, but they make great pieces...

Bags - Casual clothingJune 19th 2019

Strong colour in accessories

February 1st 2019

The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong colours just because I find tha...

Strong colour in accessories

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I can see why people might say that, but it's not something you have to do all the time, definitely. Just keep it in mind as something that might look good. Try it with, and without, and see what you think....

Coats - Hanks and scarvesFebruary 1st 2019

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the world. Based in Paris, it makes c...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

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Impressed that you had this done for under 300Eur. I was inspired by this post and went to a furrier in NYC to have a mink liner made for a gabardine coat. Cost: $1200 including the second-hand mink and labor....

Coats - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

January 16th 2019

So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer fastened, but none on th...

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

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Cheers Hugh...

CoatsJanuary 16th 2019

The guide to overcoating cloths

December 17th 2018

  When selecting a cloth for an overcoat, what should you look for? This might seem like a pretty easy question: you want warmth. That’s what an overcoat is for. But how much warmth, and where it comes from, are not straightforward. As...

The guide to overcoating cloths

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Yes I think that's a good approach Alvin. I don't really cover coats in that range though I'm afraid, sorry...

Cloth - CoatsDecember 17th 2018