Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

June 8th 2020

*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes bac...

Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

Match in comments:
Thank you Sam. I'm not sure it will make much difference what Valstar use to to be honest. The shape of the classic bomber is the main thing, the proportions and whether they work for you. Having a set-in shoulder rather...

Casual clothing - CoatsJune 8th 2020

Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI...

April 27th 2020

Benson & Clegg is not a button shop. I didn’t realise until I went in, earlier this year, quite how much it has gained that reputation. It's partly a result of their own good promotion over the years, but perhaps more significantly be...

Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI...

Match in comments:
Interesting to see non-flapped pockets on these old DB overcoats...

Coats - SuitsApril 27th 2020

Grey and lilac: Ralph Lauren style, in Cifonelli

February 26th 2020

I’ve been looking at a lot of old Ralph Lauren imagery in recent months. Because of the 50th anniversary, but also because of the Ivy Style talk we did in New York , where everyone admitted some kind of debt to Ralph, and reading In His Own Fa...

Grey and lilac: Ralph Lauren style, in Cifonelli

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I'm afraid I don't know Dan, sorry...

CoatsFebruary 26th 2020

What makes quality in machine-made clothing?

February 21st 2020

Best investment product: Private White VC Runners up: Alden, Edward Green   What makes one machine-made product better than another? At Permanent Style, the fact we cover mostly smart clothing, and mostly high-end, means handwork is often a...

What makes quality in machine-made clothing?

Match in comments:
Hi Simon, Thank you very much. I was trying to find that. Joel...

CoatsFebruary 21st 2020

The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...

January 27th 2020

Just before Christmas, I took my belted coat into Whitcomb & Shaftesbury to have it converted into a normal overcoat. As detailed on my original article, this was always a possibility. I began the experiment of a bespoke wrap coat with the...

The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...

Match in comments:
I would certainly he hesitant about playing with the proportions too much, MK, at least until you've worn it a fair bit. Also, if it's a straight cut like that, don't ever just taper the waist. If you want it more shaped...

CoatsJanuary 27th 2020

Wearing black

January 22nd 2020

Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounced with shoes though, a...

Wearing black

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To be honest I'm not sure Charlie - I've never worn that style of jacket in anything other than blue denim and I think it might be a bit much for me if I did...

Coats - ShoesJanuary 22nd 2020

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

January 8th 2020

Permanent Style prides itself on honest reviews of clothing. Please be reassured that this policy continues in this piece on Michael Browne. Despite the fact that there are basically no negative points. There's just hardly anything bad to say (othe...

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

Match in comments:
Hey Charlie, I think you make good points. Whether it was worth it for me, well I absolutely adore it and it's one of my favourite pieces of tailoring. I wouldn't say I've got a huge amount of wear out of it, but I can a...

CoatsJanuary 8th 2020

Pinnas & Needles alterations

January 6th 2020

Over the past six months I’ve used the Soho workshop Pinnas & Needles for several alterations - from the simple to the complex - and feel I can now fully recommend them. Being able to satisfyingly alter clothing, so it sorts out a pro...

Pinnas & Needles alterations

Match in comments:
Costly and not always possible. It needs to be done by an actual knitting factory, unlike tailoring or shirts that can be done by anybody with a sewing machine...

Coats - TrousersJanuary 6th 2020

Removable fur lining – from Yves Salomon

December 27th 2019

This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped. It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur specialists Yves Salomon, using sec...

Removable fur lining – from Yves Salomon

Match in comments:
Hey Carl, I would have it in a thinner fur if it were for this type of jacket - more like the mink we used here. I get more use out of that second one, because it fits into a raincoat and our donegals. Have a read of tha...

CoatsDecember 27th 2019

Michael Browne: Building the perfect tailor

November 11th 2019

Michael Browne is one of the most talented and creative tailors I’ve known in my time writing PS. He is also one of the nicest. We talked for years about whether and how he would set up on his own, and when he finally did - and moved into the...

Michael Browne: Building the perfect tailor

Match in comments:
Hi VAL, I would certainly put Camps de Luca at the top in that category, yes. Others in Milan and Rome such as the branches of Caraceni also belong in that category, perhaps more so than Liverano. I wouldn't say there is...

CoatsNovember 11th 2019

A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka

October 14th 2019

This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on Friday with an interview about...

A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka

Match in comments:
Thanks M. I find it too bulky, myself, if all buttoned and zipped up. But just buttoning the top couple, and leaving the rest open to move around (and therefore not zipped, as you say) is a great look....

CoatsOctober 14th 2019

Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat

October 2nd 2019

This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat ( shown here) more often than any other last winter. Despite the...

Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat

Match in comments:
Thank you And, and useful feedback...

CoatsOctober 2nd 2019

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...

June 19th 2019

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three gro...

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...

Match in comments:
Thanks. De Bonne Facture are lovely - not always my kind of style, but they make great pieces...

Bags - Casual clothingJune 19th 2019

Strong colour in accessories

February 1st 2019

The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong colours just because I find tha...

Strong colour in accessories

Match in comments:
Thanks Daniel. Mine was more of a shawl-scarf, and I don't think they do it anymore I'm afraid....

Coats - Hanks and scarvesFebruary 1st 2019

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

January 18th 2019

Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the world. Based in Paris, it makes c...

Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur

Match in comments:
Impressed that you had this done for under 300Eur. I was inspired by this post and went to a furrier in NYC to have a mink liner made for a gabardine coat. Cost: $1200 including the second-hand mink and labor....

Coats - Factory visitsJanuary 18th 2019

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

January 16th 2019

So this was an interesting experiment. My idea was to make my first overcoat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury as a belted wrap coat. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer fastened, but none on th...

Belted polo coat, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

Match in comments:
Cheers Hugh...

CoatsJanuary 16th 2019

The guide to overcoating cloths

December 17th 2018

  When selecting a cloth for an overcoat, what should you look for? This might seem like a pretty easy question: you want warmth. That’s what an overcoat is for. But how much warmth, and where it comes from, are not straightforward. As...

The guide to overcoating cloths

Match in comments:
Yes I think so, on both counts...

Cloth - CoatsDecember 17th 2018

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

October 31st 2018

* For updates and stock please see the shop page*   Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular ...

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

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Have you ever pressed/ironed them? All smart trousers need that, and often cord more than others, as they do tend to bag out at the knee...

Coats - KnitwearOctober 31st 2018

No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...

October 29th 2018

It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites online, of course, particularl...

No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...

Match in comments:
'No man walks alone' - possibly not the best brand name during the current Covid 19 outbreak. We are all walking alone now! They will need to rebrand....

Casual clothing - CoatsOctober 29th 2018

The duffle coat

March 9th 2018

It was freezing in London last week. Temperatures below zero consistently; more snow than we’ve had in a decade. Of course, it’s nothing compared to the US east coast - or Scandinavia - but it was rather a shock. I had an odd feeling on ...

The duffle coat

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Yes I did, but it's too thick and coarse for me - it felt like it would be quite uncomfortable...

CoatsMarch 9th 2018

How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespok...

February 21st 2018

  This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat , how it has held up and – more speci...

How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespok...

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It wasn't, except to the extent that I've always liked this kind of graphic decoration. And yes, I think we do refine things in that way. Always making little mistakes, but getting better over time. The journey is the jo...

CoatsFebruary 21st 2018

Suit-carrier holdalls and Trench coats back in stock

January 30th 2018

Two of the best collaborations we did last year are back in stock this week. The Suit-Carrier Holdall (below), which combines a suit carrier and a holdall into a single lightweight bag, is available again on the Bennett Winch website. The Holdall w...

Suit-carrier holdalls and Trench coats back in stock

Match in comments:
Worth checking with Bennett Winch if that's OK...

Bags - CoatsJanuary 30th 2018

Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review

January 5th 2018

I’ve wanted a Liverano ulster coat for a long time. Ever since I first saw one on Ethan Newton I think, and subsequently reinforced by seeing versions on Jeff Hilliard (now at Mr Porter) and others. Liverano is very expensive, however, and it ...

Liverano & Liverano ulster coat: Review

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I'm afraid it's in storage at the moment and I can't check Sean. Do feel free to ask again in the Autumn and I'll measure them for you...

CoatsJanuary 5th 2018

The Armoury at the pop-up: College cardigan, R...

November 30th 2017

The Armoury really inspired me (as it did many others) when it started out in Hong Kong, and I still get particularly excited about having them in the pop-up shop. I was in there yesterday, looking through everything with Dick (Carroll, pictured bot...

The Armoury at the pop-up: College cardigan, R...

Match in comments:
Nice, thanks Pat!...

Coats - KnitwearNovember 30th 2017

Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...

Match in comments:
I don't know the exact history, but I think it came from English tweed jackets which themselves were derived from those made for riding...

Black tie - CoatsSeptember 20th 2017