The Finest Menswear in the World

July 17th 2015

Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the Permanent Style shop &...

The Finest Menswear in the World

Match in comments:
Thank you, Simon. Yes, I think makers, especially with own brand, like Zilli and Seraphin schould be in prioritet position. That's why I would add Hettabretz to your selection. I read what Hattabretz small maker with own...

July 17th 2015

The versatility of a gilet

April 10th 2015

The most useful articles of clothing are often those that cover core of the body – waistcoats (knitted or woven), gilets, and to an extent scarves. It is they that make a lightweight outfit warm enough, or enable us to cope with cool morn...

The versatility of a gilet

Match in comments:
What is the rectangular inside pocket for? A ruler, to measure the distance of your country walk? A mini-baguette to eat by the river? A micro-umbrella to impress friends with your preparedness? A quill and parchment, to...

Casual clothing - StyleApril 10th 2015

The subtlety of a suede jacket

March 25th 2015

Loro Piana I’ve been pleased to see that suede has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Italians like Loro Piana have always done it well – often in a classic Italian mix of brown suede and grey cashmere – but others ...

The subtlety of a suede jacket

Match in comments:
It says in the caption? All old Loro Piana...

Casual clothing - JacketsMarch 25th 2015

How to stretch a sweater

March 5th 2014

I’ve always loved little jobs that can adapt a piece of clothing or improve it. I’ve adjusted knitwear in the past to narrow it, as well as put darts in shirts, and it’s probably the reason I love polishing shoes so much. One task...

How to stretch a sweater

Match in comments:
Not with acrylic, no...

KnitwearMarch 5th 2014

Italy’s mills and merchants explained

July 29th 2013

  This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Italian mills are a lot simple...

Italy’s mills and merchants explained

Match in comments:
Oh, they look like just what I'm after, thank you!...

ClothJuly 29th 2013

Pennine Weavers, Yorkshire

April 17th 2013

As I mentioned in my previous post on Yorkshire mills and merchants, Pennine is one of the best independent mills left in the area. It is also the largest worsted weaver in the UK, with 32 Dornier looms, and weaves 30,000-35,000 metres a week (most f...

Pennine Weavers, Yorkshire

Match in comments:
excellent well presented thank you...

ClothApril 17th 2013

Begg launches first collection at Pitti

January 29th 2013

One person it was nice to catch up with in Florence was Ann Ryley, who used to be sales and marketing director at Drake’s but left last year to help Scottish company Begg launch its first collection. Begg is an old name in Scottish weaving, g...

Begg launches first collection at Pitti

Match in comments:
Anything Michael Drake does will be wonderful. A lovely man with marvellous ideas. Lucky Begg to have him on board...

Hanks and scarvesJanuary 29th 2013

Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton

January 11th 2012

An autumnal outfit this, commissioned a little too late in the summer and then delayed by various factors so that it was ready just before Christmas. Still, on a clear winter’s day with an overcoat it serves very well and it will also do well i...

Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton

Match in comments:
You're right, that is a good rule of thumb. Like most rules I'd consider it for the guidance of wise men and the blind obedience of… less wise men....

StyleJanuary 11th 2012

Postcard from Quarona

November 30th 2011

Quality control that resembles an odd art installation at Loro Piana’s knitwear facility in Sillavengo, down the road from the Quarona headquarters. In the area this week for three chapters in my next book: The Finest Menswear in the World....

Postcard from Quarona

Quality control that resembles an odd art installation at Loro Piana’s knitwear facility in Sillavengo, down the road from the Quarona headquarters. In the area this week for three chapters in my next book: The Finest ...

Factory visitsNovember 30th 2011

The satisfaction of darning a sweater

October 26th 2011

I was horrified to discover at the weekend that one of my Loro Piana Roadster sweaters had a moth hole in. Two, in fact. Despite the various moth products and regular airing. The experience, however, had an upside. I believe in buying high-quality pr...

The satisfaction of darning a sweater

Match in comments:
Hi Tish, This post is quite old - I would recommend using a professional service like Love Cashmere now. Have a look for my coverage of them. Cheers Simon...

KnitwearOctober 26th 2011

Going tieless; Hemingway Tailors suit

September 21st 2011

Without a tie, men lose the biggest opportunity to express themselves easily in colour and pattern. But I don’t like wearing a tie every day either. The key if you’re not going to wear a tie is to add accents elsewhere, such as in a pocke...

Going tieless; Hemingway Tailors suit

Match in comments:
No, sorry Luke. I've met him once or twice but never had anything made there....

Style - SuitsSeptember 21st 2011

A plain business suit from Timothy Everest

June 27th 2011

Readers have made the point that my bespoke commissions often seem to be rather outlandish pieces: the Huntsman shooting suit, for example, or the Timothy Everest velvet jacket. Why, at least one has asked, do you not have simple business suits made?...

A plain business suit from Timothy Everest

Match in comments:
Blimey. Up to you on the lining. Matching is conservative but can be nice; bright red or blue can be a little jarring; personally I prefer dark, sophisticated colours these days, like a mossy green or burnt orange....

SuitsJune 27th 2011

Reader question: What do you wear at the weekend?

June 17th 2011

You spend a lot of time talking about suits and bespoke shoes, but what do you wear at the weekend? I have trouble picturing what you put on to pop out to the newsagent. Here are a few of my favourite things. Two types of chinos: those from Albam, wh...

Reader question: What do you wear at the weekend?

Match in comments:
Ok, but I wouldn't really recommend it. A bit gimmicky and not the greatest quality...

Reader questions - StyleJune 17th 2011

Summer: White trousers, suede shoes, blouson

April 18th 2011

I’ve had a lot of questions over the past few weeks about summer clothes, which isn’t surprising given most of Europe has been running through unseasonably warm weather. For me, the keys to casual summer style are white (or pale) trousers...

Summer: White trousers, suede shoes, blouson

Match in comments:
Yes I do. White doesn't really apply to sneakers in this respect I don't think, given they're so ubiquitous...

Shoes - StyleApril 18th 2011

Lovely nubuck at Bill Amberg

August 11th 2010

The addiction to lovely leathers continues. Consistent readers will have seen previous posts on the construction details at Bown, Alfred Dunhill’s north-London workshop and the oak-tanned bags at Bill Amberg. Other non-bag favourites includ...

Lovely nubuck at Bill Amberg

Match in comments:
I just found your blog. I can't wait to catch up on your blog posts....

BagsAugust 11th 2010

Loro Piana dressing Italians at the weekend

December 16th 2009

Recent acquisitions at Loro Piana have led me into a deeper investigation of the brand. Expect a full-length piece on its history, production and craft sometime next year. In the meantime, the good people at LP sent me over the look book of images fo...

Loro Piana dressing Italians at the weekend

Match in comments:
Hi CG, It is indeed true that most high-end Italians want to dress like the British. I saw one boarding a flight to Heathrow once in head-to-toe tweed. He obviously thought this was how everyone in the UK dressed! Howeve...

StyleDecember 16th 2009

Back to Bicester Village

December 9th 2009

It probably wasn’t hard to feel the excitement behind the words of my last post on Bicester Village. One friend’s favourite-ever quote from this blog says it all: “I am at heart a cheap man.” (From a post last year on buying l...

Back to Bicester Village

Match in comments:
thanks mate.Does the train stop in the Outlet.and how does one get to La Valee (is it any good). Are the R.L brogues still on offer...

December 9th 2009

The wonders of Bicester Village

November 4th 2009

I am a sucker for a good deal. Indeed, if one were being unkind it could be said that sometimes being a bargain gets in the way of my actually wanting something. Anywhere north of 80% off and I start to feel giddy. For a long time I’ve been a f...

The wonders of Bicester Village

Match in comments:
hey.. i'm going to bicester village for boxing day,26th. will arrive at stansted airport. how to get to bicester village? (stansted-stratford-marylebone-bicester north-bicester village.) is that the best route or there's...

StyleNovember 4th 2009