The cap
If styled right, a cap is a wonderfully useful accessory. Not as formal as a fedora, yet not as casual as a beanie, it can bridge a greater range of outfits than any other hat. When the temperature is in single figures, and your lack of hair makes a...
The cap
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No worries Jay, no post is ever too old! It depends a bit on what else you wear, but I guess a dark-grey or mid-grey herringbone perhaps? Something with a little pattern but not too much, in a conservative colour, and pr...
Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from El...
This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great, in: a rougher, preppy herrin...
Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from El...
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I think that could like nice Wes, yes, in the right cut/style of jacket....
Interview: Pier-Luigi Loro Piana
Long-time readers will know how much of a fan I am of Loro Piana. In particular, of their marked commitment to quality compared to other designers – even if that comes with the same big-brand prices. I’ve worn their blousons, gilets...
Interview: Pier-Luigi Loro Piana
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It's always a pleasure...
Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers
A couple of readers commented on the collar of my Anderson & Sheppard suit in our recent video, ‘How to look after your suit’. A&S have always cut a particularly thick collar (1.75 inches at the back for me), an...
Double-breasted checks, and cream trousers
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Thank you, most helpful...
The Finest Menswear in the World
Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the Permanent Style shop &...
The Finest Menswear in the World
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Thank you, Simon. Yes, I think makers, especially with own brand, like Zilli and Seraphin schould be in prioritet position. That's why I would add Hettabretz to your selection. I read what Hattabretz small maker with own...
The versatility of a gilet
The most useful articles of clothing are often those that cover core of the body – waistcoats (knitted or woven), gilets, and to an extent scarves. It is they that make a lightweight outfit warm enough, or enable us to cope with cool morn...
The versatility of a gilet
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What is the rectangular inside pocket for? A ruler, to measure the distance of your country walk? A mini-baguette to eat by the river? A micro-umbrella to impress friends with your preparedness? A quill and parchment, to...
The subtlety of a suede jacket
Loro Piana I’ve been pleased to see that suede has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Italians like Loro Piana have always done it well – often in a classic Italian mix of brown suede and grey cashmere – but others ...
The subtlety of a suede jacket
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Both can look good, it's not a big difference (compared to collar, body fit etc). Buttons is a little smarter, zip a little sportier, but I think both would probably work for you...
How to stretch a sweater
I’ve always loved little jobs that can adapt a piece of clothing or improve it. I’ve adjusted knitwear in the past to narrow it, as well as put darts in shirts, and it’s probably the reason I love polishing shoes so much. One task...
How to stretch a sweater
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Not with acrylic, no...
Italy’s mills and merchants explained
This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Italian mills are a lot simple...
Italy’s mills and merchants explained
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Hi Nicholas, Can I ask why? It's a very big world (much bigger than that for bespoke clothing) and you won't be able to buy any of the fabric unless you're a brand ordering hundreds of metres......
Pennine Weavers, Yorkshire
As I mentioned in my previous post on Yorkshire mills and merchants, Pennine is one of the best independent mills left in the area. It is also the largest worsted weaver in the UK, with 32 Dornier looms, and weaves 30,000-35,000 metres a week (most f...
Pennine Weavers, Yorkshire
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excellent well presented thank you...
Begg launches first collection at Pitti
One person it was nice to catch up with in Florence was Ann Ryley, who used to be sales and marketing director at Drake’s but left last year to help Scottish company Begg launch its first collection. Begg is an old name in Scottish weaving, g...
Begg launches first collection at Pitti
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Anything Michael Drake does will be wonderful. A lovely man with marvellous ideas. Lucky Begg to have him on board...
Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton
An autumnal outfit this, commissioned a little too late in the summer and then delayed by various factors so that it was ready just before Christmas. Still, on a clear winter’s day with an overcoat it serves very well and it will also do well i...
Graham Browne: Brown cashmere and tan cotton
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You're right, that is a good rule of thumb. Like most rules I'd consider it for the guidance of wise men and the blind obedience of… less wise men....
Postcard from Quarona
Quality control that resembles an odd art installation at Loro Piana’s knitwear facility in Sillavengo, down the road from the Quarona headquarters. In the area this week for three chapters in my next book: The Finest Menswear in the World....
Postcard from Quarona
Quality control that resembles an odd art installation at Loro Piana’s knitwear facility in Sillavengo, down the road from the Quarona headquarters. In the area this week for three chapters in my next book: The Finest ...
The satisfaction of darning a sweater
I was horrified to discover at the weekend that one of my Loro Piana Roadster sweaters had a moth hole in. Two, in fact. Despite the various moth products and regular airing. The experience, however, had an upside. I believe in buying high-quality pr...
The satisfaction of darning a sweater
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The quality is good, I wouldn't worry about that...
Going tieless; Hemingway Tailors suit
Without a tie, men lose the biggest opportunity to express themselves easily in colour and pattern. But I don’t like wearing a tie every day either. The key if you’re not going to wear a tie is to add accents elsewhere, such as in a pocke...
Going tieless; Hemingway Tailors suit
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No, sorry Luke. I've met him once or twice but never had anything made there....
A plain business suit from Timothy Everest
Readers have made the point that my bespoke commissions often seem to be rather outlandish pieces: the Huntsman shooting suit, for example, or the Timothy Everest velvet jacket. Why, at least one has asked, do you not have simple business suits made?...
A plain business suit from Timothy Everest
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Blimey. Up to you on the lining. Matching is conservative but can be nice; bright red or blue can be a little jarring; personally I prefer dark, sophisticated colours these days, like a mossy green or burnt orange....
Reader question: What do you wear at the weekend?
You spend a lot of time talking about suits and bespoke shoes, but what do you wear at the weekend? I have trouble picturing what you put on to pop out to the newsagent. Here are a few of my favourite things. Two types of chinos: those from Albam, wh...
Reader question: What do you wear at the weekend?
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Ok, but I wouldn't really recommend it. A bit gimmicky and not the greatest quality...
Summer: White trousers, suede shoes, blouson
I’ve had a lot of questions over the past few weeks about summer clothes, which isn’t surprising given most of Europe has been running through unseasonably warm weather. For me, the keys to casual summer style are white (or pale) trousers...
Summer: White trousers, suede shoes, blouson
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No they can look nice too...
Lovely nubuck at Bill Amberg
The addiction to lovely leathers continues. Consistent readers will have seen previous posts on the construction details at Bown, Alfred Dunhill’s north-London workshop and the oak-tanned bags at Bill Amberg. Other non-bag favourites includ...
Lovely nubuck at Bill Amberg
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I just found your blog. I can't wait to catch up on your blog posts....
Loro Piana dressing Italians at the weekend
Recent acquisitions at Loro Piana have led me into a deeper investigation of the brand. Expect a full-length piece on its history, production and craft sometime next year. In the meantime, the good people at LP sent me over the look book of images fo...
Loro Piana dressing Italians at the weekend
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I don't have them anymore I'm afraid, sorry. You're right, it would have been nice...
Back to Bicester Village
It probably wasn’t hard to feel the excitement behind the words of my last post on Bicester Village. One friend’s favourite-ever quote from this blog says it all: “I am at heart a cheap man.” (From a post last year on buying l...
Back to Bicester Village
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thanks mate.Does the train stop in the Outlet.and how does one get to La Valee (is it any good). Are the R.L brogues still on offer...
The wonders of Bicester Village
I am a sucker for a good deal. Indeed, if one were being unkind it could be said that sometimes being a bargain gets in the way of my actually wanting something. Anywhere north of 80% off and I start to feel giddy. For a long time I’ve been a f...
The wonders of Bicester Village
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hey.. i'm going to bicester village for boxing day,26th. will arrive at stansted airport. how to get to bicester village? (stansted-stratford-marylebone-bicester north-bicester village.) is that the best route or there's...
