The suit is from Toby Luper at Hemingway Tailors. It has the strongest shoulders I’ve ever had in a suit, achieved not so much from extra padding as from the cut, chest canvas and strong roping in the shoulder. The roping is about ⅝ of an inch in width.
It’s fair to say this is Toby’s normal style – though he is not a cutter himself, rather a travelling tailor using Cheshire Bespoke to make his suits. I find it interesting how much influence a tailor like Toby has on the style and cut of suits made elsewhere though. His trousers really deserve the attention in this suit; as with previous pairs, they are the best cut of any I own. The sculpted line into the lower back is just perfect.
I may yet have the shoulders altered. But continuing the thoughts of a previous post on sloping shoulders, it’s interesting to see perhaps the most extreme way of dealing with them – cutting a near right angle around the circular shoulder line. I’ll wear it in for a while and see how it feels.
French navy flannel suit, Hemingway Tailors; white polo shirt, Kiton; grey sleeveless sweater, Loro Piana; brown suede shoes, Edward Green; royal blue linen handkerchief, Pochette Square.