Meyrowitz, a workshop in the Thames – or, the best way to get glasses made for you
There are quite a few islands in the Thames, once you get out beyond Hammersmith to the west. Most of them aren't used for much other than boat clubs, but Platt’s Eyott is a an exception.
There's an industrial area with workshops and recording studios, boats moored around the perimeter. The infrastructure is there because the island was used for making torpedo boats during both world wars, and it's now settled down into a few concrete buildings and some scrubland - perfect for light industry.
I've been to lots of these kinds of workshops over the years, and I love how varied the locations are. Even when you're producing luxury products, cost and space are paramount - the exterior might be dust and cows in Amrtisar, blackened houses in Peebles, or shiny numbered lots in Naples, but it's rarely glamorous.
EB Meyrowitz has been on Platt's Eyott (the second word related to ‘islet’, as in small island) for about four years. You reach it across an iron footbridge - only accessible to pedestrians or a very narrow van, one of which passed us as we crossed, a wet dog looking through the window and long rolls of material sticking out the back.
Meyrowitz make their eyewear, mostly in acetate and horn, on the first floor of the central building.
When I first got to know EB Meyrowitz, around 13 years ago, their glasses were made through a series of outworkers - in much the same way as most bespoke shoes are made in the UK.
Over time the downsides of that system became too much - particularly the lack of control - and they moved everything in-house. The workshop was initially in north London and is now here, in the south-west, with 4-5 workers on average including one intern.
The way Meyrowitz offers glasses to customers has evolved too. There has always been a lot of emphasis on customisation, but they don’t necessarily do what readers would think of as ‘bespoke’ - and yet don’t do that much ready-to-wear either.
The majority of what Meyrowitz does is customised versions of the ready-made frames you see in the store (Royal Arcade, Mayfair). I actually think that with glasses this makes a lot of sense.
A gentleman came in recently, apparently, wanting to make bespoke glasses. He was rather disappointed when he found out that the frames would not be designed from scratch, and would therefore not produce a frame that could not be found anywhere else, on anyone else.
“The problem with doing that is that customers can’t imagine what the final product will look like, and particularly look like on them,” says Sheel from Meyrowitz. “Often they have an idea in their head - perhaps some version of Aristotle Onassis - but they’re not going to look like him, because they just have a different face. People just suit different things.”
This has been my experience too. I’ve had bespoke glasses made by several makers, and the gap between imagination and realisation often leads to disappointment. I’d say it’s my experience across a lot of bespoke, but particularly with glasses, where the margins for error are smaller and so are the number of shapes that suit you.
Readers sometimes comment that PS is useful because it saves them from making mistakes by making them first. Bespoke commissions like this are one area where I think that’s particularly true. If I can save readers going through the same experience as me, it will save them a lot of time and money.
Most of the time Meyrowitz work with one of the frames in the store and then adapt it. These changes can be quite extensive, including changing the shape around the nose to fit it more snugly, for example. It's not just shaving away or bending an arm - it is making something new.
Sometimes the changes can be minor as well. Generally the only changes I’ve needed are a new arm on one side as one side of my head never fits the same as the other.
Meyrowitz have emphasised this customisation more as the years have gone on. They do sell RTW sunglasses (where the range of suitable designs is much larger, and timing often more of an issue) but for opticals they try to always have this kind of extended customisation (if the parallel is tailoring, then this is something like made to measure).
They’re also thinking about introducing a real bespoke service in the way that the customer wanted - from scratch - but it would be more involved. Trial pairs, designs superimposed on photographs, multiple meetings and so on. And obviously more expensive.
Back on the island, I’m watching one of the craftspeople drip wax from a candle onto buffalo horn.
Horn is a lovely material, attractive because it’s natural and warms to the skin as only a natural material can, and we can’t really get tortoiseshell any more. But it’s a bugger to look after - it must be stored at a particular humidity, moisturised throughout its life, and usually brought back to the maker every couple of years. Otherwise it will eventually dry out and twist out of shape.
It’s also not easy to produce the range of colours that people want. The mottled pattern of tortoiseshell has become so synonymous with glasses that most people don’t make the connection to actual tortoises anymore, but it is something they like. So if they want it on horn, the material has to be hand dyed with the pattern, and wax is used to stop the dye from going onto certain areas.
Drip, drip, drip goes the candle. It makes the workshop smell wonderful, and it’s impressive the craftsperson can create that regular-but-still-natural-looking pattern as we all stand and watch.
I think glasses, particularly sunglasses, are becoming more of a menswear accessory. With the frequent absence of ties and handkerchieves these days, men that think about these things are turning to other accessories like belts, bags - and something else to stuff in their breast pocket.
A reader admitted to me recently that he really only needed his glasses for driving, but he carried them all the time because they helped fill that yawning void he felt in his outbreast pocket.
Perhaps there will be an increase in glasses with interesting arms, so one can be displayed attractively when it hooks over that pocket. Not bright colours or animal faces, obviously, but perhaps a slightly wider, artfully cut shape, showing a particularly busy area of mottling.
Those were my thoughts as I saw the dozens of frames set out around the Meyrowitz workshop and considered - as I think we all would - which I would get for myself. We never stop being customers, even if we are on a ramshackle island in the middle of the Thames.
Thank you to the whole Meyrowitz team for their hospitality. Remember there is a PS category page with all historical writing about eyewear.
Such examples of craft and skill are great to read about, and a relief to know still exist and indeed thrive.
Totally!
Simon honestly, that point about gap between expectation and reality is the biggest issue with ALL bespoke. It’s why I think that Cifonelli nailed it when they had about 15 ‘stock models’ for you to look at and then choose from as an aesthetic. And with the greatest respect to all the great craftsmen, Savile Row tailors aren’t that helpful when you’re making a decision(!) Don’t know quite what I’m asking but maybe for a big post on this particular point (though I do know you’ve covered it in parts over the years).
JL
Hey JL,
Yes I’m happy to write something there but perhaps let me know what more specifically you’re looking for. We have done pieces giving tips on going to the tailor before, picking cloth, picking style etc. Would all of those in one place be helpful, or is this specifically about try-ons – being able to see more clearly what you’re going to be getting?
Thanks Simon; I think it’s both – all the helpful stuff in one place but perhaps most importantly the latter point – seeing clearly what you’re going to get. And maybe the dangers of changing away from that. e.g. the A&S double breasted suit is a pretty classic object. You don’t want to go messing around too much or it will “lose what makes it it” and you’ll be disappointed. Some of the Cifonelli stuff is pretty out there but having the models in front of you really helps etc. Apologies if this isn’t the clearest message but I think there are loads of people who’d appreciate the help!
No problem at all, makes sense and I agree
Having low expectations is one of the secrets to a happy life. When I go to a tailor, I don’t expect perfection, I don’t expect the tailor to be able to do something very different from his or her house style, and I don’t expect a quick delivery.
I always get better fit compared to MTM or RTW and this is usually enough for me to make me happy.
“There are quite a few islands in the Thames, once you get out beyond Hammersmith to the west. Most of them aren’t used for much other than boat clubs, but Platt’s Eyott is a an exception.”
I live on the Thames and that’s just not true. Several of the islands have houses or businesses on them, e.g. the famous Eel Pie in Twickenham. It was home to the late Sir Trevor Bayliss, the inventor of the wind-up radio. He was great fun and would wave to us when we sailed by his home.
Two friends of mine live on islands in Teddington and Thames Ditton, both have over 10 houses on them. Ravens Ait in Surbiton is a well-known conference and wedding venue. The recording studio on Platt’s Eyot is still, I believe, owned by David Gilmour of Pink Floyd.
Thanks Kent. I was going off what someone who lived on Platt’s said, but clearly they were exagerrating
Can you discuss a little about the process of customized glasses with Meyrowitz? Is it one visit or multiple? Do you have a “fitting” where some additional tweaking can occur, or is it all one shot to completion? Do you get to pick from pieces of horn or acetate, or do they show you samples and pick something similar in the workshop?
Thanks.
There are multiple meetings, but usually two or three is all that’s required. The first is in the shop, trying on lots of different models and styles and colours. Changes are then made, and the pair at the next stage is usually fine for me, but once or twice another tweak has been required, so a third meeting.
Appointments are done in the shop, not the workshop, and the idea is you’re not picking usually from pieces of acetate or horn, because that makes it harder to envision the actual glasses (see issues with bespoke). You’re picking a design they have there in a material they have there. The changes are mostly about fit
Interesting article, Simon. Particularly liked your point about tortoiseshell – I think you’re right that a lot of people don’t really think of the history there, and mostly only know it as a pattern name rather than a natural material.
Using more sustainable materials such as horn is definitely a win. I wonder where Meyrowitz source their horn? And props to that dedicated craftsperson for their skill and patience.
When Tony Cutler of Cutler and Gross glasses fame died a few years ago this paragraph of his life was included in The Times obituary:
“Despite his conservative appearance, he was a bohemian whose appetite for the good life was immense. He enjoyed clubbing all night and although he never married, he had a lively appreciation of female pulchritude and bestowed his affections liberally.”
What an amazing way to be remembered.
The obituary details his view of glasses and how he brought them forward to be a style statement rather than that “you could only sell sunglasses to old people who were worried about damaging their eyes”, he recalled. “And most of the styles were just awful. Very unflattering.” It was impossible to sell sunglasses during the winter at all and a wet summer was “bad for business”. ”
I see this influence in Meyorwitz and as a relatively recent glasses wearer (for reading) it’s a new element to style that I am exploring.
I really enjoy the rustic-industrial vibe of these pics. Shout out to the photographer who deserves recognition for them.
Silly me. Since glasses are so small, I always assumed that the workshop was just behind the wall of the shop. Thanks for correcting my misimpression.
Obviously they do the frames, but do they do the lenses as well? If not, how does that work?
No, glasses require some pretty large machines!
They don’t make their own lenses, no, and to be honest I’ve never looked at that aspect
I found this on their website under FAQs:
Do you offer eye examinations and can you fit my lenses for me?
We encourage letting us handle the whole process from start to finish. This allows us to make sure we are working with the correct prescription, offer you the best possible lenses for your optical requirements and ensure no damage comes to your new frame in glazing.
So it appears that it’s one-stop shopping from eye exam to a finished pair of glasses. I’m thinking they have to out-source the lens manufacture because it is so completely different from frame making. Obviously, it would be a manufacturer that EBM has a working relationship with and there is something to be said for that.
I may just have to give this a go. EBM travels frequently and extensively to the USA as part of The London Collective, making it relatively convenient.
Indeed. And yes, sorry if that wasn’t clear, they certainly handle the whole process but do not make their own lenses
Love the pair you are wearing, not too much dark shading in the color.
Having said that, I worked in optics many years ago, looking at those pics, they are working in some very dimly lit work areas.
My Grandad lives opposite this island and I always presumed nothing happened on it since it looks so run-down. How wrong could I be! Thanks for bringing this to my attention Simon, I now have to visit.
Hi Simon,
I’ve been seeing lots of sunglasses with a very light tint, closer to eyeglasses with tinted lenses. The guys at anthology wears these a lot.
I’m curious what your thoughts are on this style.
Good question. I haven’t tried it myself so hard to comment in detail, but I haven’t done because I think it can look a little too showy for me and my style. For actual sunglasses, having a slightly lighter tint or a graded one can be quite cool (presuming of course that you’re ok with that from an eye point of view – some people need more protection) but as regular glasses the rest of the time I think it’s more of a fashion thing