The photographer Milad Abedi is someone whose style I’ve liked for a long time, but in a quiet way. Whenever we’ve shot together I’ve been interested in what he’s wearing and found something I liked, but he wasn’t the first person I thought about for PS series like this.
That changed when we spent more time together on a trip to Rome last year, and talked more. Although we dress a little differently, we have very similar views on a lot of aspects of style. Milad just tends to push the boat out a little more, wants to experiment and isn’t afraid to – even wants to – stand out.
As readers have commented, this is often a nice aspect of these ‘How to dress like’ articles. Unlike the Reader Profiles, the people featured are from the menswear industry. They often dress in more unusual, more unique ways. It’s less likely you’d dress in the same way, but more likely that they’ll suggest new ideas.
Outfit 1: Working unusual pieces
- Ball cap: Vintage RL Polo Sport
- Jacket: Vintage Schott NYC, Made in USA
- Knitwear: Eidos honeycomb knit
- Trousers: Bespoke from Zaremba, in heavy Fox Flannel
- Boots: Barbanera
PS: This seems like a good example of your style to start with. Much of this pretty classic – the cream flannel, the suede jacket and boots – but you went for a fringed western jacket rather than something more conventional.
Milad: Yes, I tend to like more unusual and eccentric pieces of clothing like this. I think too often guys are scared and say things like ‘I couldn’t pull that off’, but don’t give them a chance. My attitude is I could wear almost anything if I can find the right way to do it.
For example, I saw Tony [Sylvester] with leopard-print Grecian slippers a while back. I don’t necessarily dress like him, and I wouldn’t wear them that way, but I liked them as individual pieces and I was sure I’d sfind ways to incorporate them into my wardrobe. They turned out to be one of my most used pair of shoes and I wear them with everything, from black tie to pyjamas at home.
Would you be limited by things like skin colour, or proportion?
Those would be my only limitations pretty much, and my usual starting point when deciding on new pieces, besides price! If a colour works on me, or if it has the right proportions for my kind of frame.
That was how I first got into classic menswear actually. Not because I wanted to dress up in a suit and tie, but because I wanted to find trousers that worked for my build – that didn’t mean my thighs rubbed together and the crotch blew out.
So I discovered things like pleats, a full cut and a high rise, and It made a big difference. This further reinforced my thoughts about what good design is, and form following function.
Outfit 2: Working
- Ball cap: Vintage RL Polo Sport
- Jacket: Private White VC wax Twin Track
- Jeans: Cream selvedge Berg & Berg denim
- Boots: Morjas
This shot was taken when you were on location shooting for Ralph Lauren. How much does your occupation shape what you wear?
A lot! I spend so much time travelling that clothes have to be versatile, and then I’ll be shooting for a lot of the time, so they have to be somewhat practical. I do make sacrifices though.
Today I’m shooting with you but I’m wearing black-suede loafers, because I have a black-tie dinner on Wednesday – for this trip I needed shoes that could work for both.
I often find the key to packing well and quickly is colour palette – decide you’re going to wear cream, black and camel during the week, and then everything in those colours work together. Or only take black or brown shoes, just in different styles for different occasions.
It’s not all function though and I’m happy to wear less practical things if it makes me feel better about how I present myself. For example, today I’m wearing your camel overcoat from The Anthology, which isn’t the most practical thing for shooting. But I don’t mind if it gets on the ground a bit. I’ll brush it down and like the signs of wear.
And on that shoot with Ralph Lauren, I remember someone noted I was shooting in white jeans, even lying down in the grass. But they’re jeans – I’ll wash them at 60 degrees when I get home and they’ll be fine.
Outfit 3: Proportion
- Ball cap: John Deere Merch
- Suit: MTM Caruso
- Knitwear: Berg & Berg
- Shoes: Novesta
I know comfort is important to you too – is that driven by what you do, or is it more a personal preference?
It’s a combination of both, and it’s only a realisation I’ve come to over time. There was a time when I was wearing those close-fitting suits, which look fine when you’re standing in a mirror, not moving. Like a mannequin in a window with the jacket pinned at the back.
But it doesn’t work when you want to do something. I like the outfit above, but the suit is a good example: it was too tight in the sleeves and the thighs and the only reason it worked was because of the soft fabric. I’m bending my arm a lot when I work, and I don’t want to have to repress the sleeves every day. In fact, feeling fabric resistance around my forearms when moving is something I hate with a passion
But even if you’re not a photographer, I think a bigger fit there is better. Sleeves for instance don’t look big when they’re by your side – an extra 2cm or 3cm doesn’t make much of a difference in silhouette. But it does make it easier for you to live and move.
Do you think attitude to fit is changing?
100%! And of course, it’s been different in the past too. If you look at those old Armani ads, the clothes do often look too big, a little boxy with a low button; but when someone’s moving in them, they look amazing – the way they drape and flow.
Compare that to a tight suit in a ‘modern’ cut. It’s fine when you’re standing stock still, but as soon as you move it clings and rides up.
But you like that suit and outfit otherwise?
Absolutely, the colours are great, and that material was one Loro Piana did, a camel Gobi Gold I think, which had this great texture. They don’t do it anymore unfortunately. A real shame, as it’s the best cord I’ve seen and I would really love to have a version that fits properly.
Often texture and silhouette are the two things I look for in clothing, and I find most inspiring.
Outfit 4: Accessories
- Sunglasses: Vintage Tom Ford
- Suit: Bespoke, The Anthology
- Shirt: Eton
- Belt: Silver Ostrich
This feels like a good example of something which would not be unusual, were it not for the little things you’ve put it with – the sunglasses and the belt.
That’s fair. They’re high-waisted Hollywood trousers, but otherwise it’s just a brown suit and blue-striped shirt. The glasses and the western belt are the more eccentric additions.
It’s easiest to do this with outerwear and accessories of course – things at the edges that you can swap around. And I’m never going to wear full-on western clothing with a cowboy hat and everything else – it’s too limiting. You become the guy in the cowboy hat. The point of playing around is to find what you like, rather than completely copying something else.
Do you think your hair and beard – and perhaps height – make it easier to wear unusual things?
Perhaps a little. I haven’t always had them and it’s possible to dress much more conservatively, but you can wear bigger frames like this for example more easily – the proportions are more in line. They do limit me a little though, the few times when I need to dress conservatively. I think it looks a little off with a navy business suit and tie for example.
Outfit 5: Black and brown
- Beanie: Berg & Berg
- Knitear: Eidos honeycomb knit
- Coat: Berg & Berg
- Belt: Silver Ostrich Belts
- Jeans: Berg & Berg
I see you wearing this coat a lot, why do you like it so much?
It’s proven very versatile. It’s a simple raglan, but the check has both brown and black so it works with brown and black shoes, which is obviously helpful. I’ve even worn it with black tie.
I struggle a little with roll necks like the one here – because of my beard they get pushed down. I need to find some good mock necks instead.
Just as we said at the beginning, the colour combinations and styles are pretty classic, but you’ve got little touches in there – the knit tucked into the jeans, the belt and rings, a bright beanie.
Yeah good point, and today with my polo coat I’m wearing the same beanie!
I think PS readers get quite quickly to the stage of dressing simply and well, but it’s harder to give advice on being experimental and expressing yourself. What would you say?
I think just try things, that’s the only way. If you like a piece invest in it, and workshop an outfit. Men are mostly the same, if they get some validation – from a girlfriend or a compliment from someone they meet – it will give them a lot of confidence.
Realistically, that’s helped me over the years. I find myself in places where I get a lot of validation from people who I look up to, other creatives or stylists. It helps a lot – and of course, makes it easier to not give a f**k about criticism!
I’m very interested to hear more about how changing trousers stopped his thighs from rubbing together. It’s something that happens to me and I never thought it could be improved by a fuller cut or a higher rise. When you have big thighs and/or you walk a certain way, every trouser gives in eventually in my experience. Maybe fabric helps a bit (linens and smoother wools have lasted more than cotton and textured wools), but that’s it for me.
Have you tried a fuller cut, Dario? I think if the material is under less strain it makes a big difference, even if there’s still rubbing going on. The higher rise helps with comfort usually, if you have bigger thighs and seat
I suffer from a similar problem. My tailor sew a little pieces of lining material inside my trousers where the material is rubbing and wearing out. these are bigger patches, not loose ones, as in some RTW trousers, but fully sewn on the critical areas . He calls them pancakes and says even if the damage appears on the outside, most if it happens inside the trousers. This little fix stopped my flannel trousers from wearing out quickly.
I’ve had the same problem, and a fuller cut DEFINITELY helps. I use to go through RTW trousers in 8 months or so, now I have full cut cavalry twill trousers that have lasted 3 years of being worn once or twice a week. The combination of material and cut seems to make all the difference.
I find the cut helps less than material myself. My thighs rub together regardless because that’s how my legs look. But a 15oz flannel will last a lot longer than a 10oz etc. My cut has loosened up overall but really I find some materials still pill and wear through quite quickly. So it’s a bit of a guessing game, but I’ve pretty much settled on heavy fabrics and a (un)healthy rotation of trousers.
Thanks everyone for the replies!
While I do have some fuller trousers than others, none of them are “Peter Zottolo fullness”, to give an example that pops into my mind now.
I do the patches at the tailor but usually when it’s already very thinned out, in order to prevent a hole. Never thought of doing it on a new pair though.
Great to see a photographer who doesn’t think the de rigeuer look is Vietnam throwback.
Fabulous colour palette . As I’ve aged,I’ve found that the sensation of being wrapped in comfy clothing is essential .
I hear my wife yelling ‘finally!’ but once you discover ‘your’ colours, it all begins to knit together seemlessly .
Hi Simon, Milad,
Really nice article – nice to see some shots of the person usually doing the shooting!
Couple of questions – The brown linen anthology suit – do you know if this this a similar linen to the current Drakes brown linen in their RTW line? I was thinking about the drakes suit MTM but think it’s probably worth going bespoke with the Anthology instead. Don’t think there’ll be a huge price difference.
Also, is it possible to get the Polo coat MTO and change a few details such as patch pockets and removing breast pocket flap.
Yes the coat is available MTO, though you’d have to check on whether the Anthology would be happy with changing such big design details. It’s mostly intended for people to change length, sleeve length etc.
I don’t know what the Drake’s brown linen RTW is like I’m afraid.
What is the fabric weight? That coat has been tempting me for a couple years.
It’s 23oz – all details here
Regarding the featured looks, I’m struck by the prevalence of brown and cream tones. I gravitate towards those, too, along with olive, in many situations. The less formal colors seem to reduce the perception of being overdressed because I’m wearing a jacket or an overcoat.
Nice point Alex, yes I can definitely see how that would make a difference
Hi, great article! Where does he got the poncho(?) in the second last picture? 🙂
It’s a one off, from the Swedish company Remakesthlm
Thanks Simon, but whats an one off? I also could not find the model on remakesthlm (only womans clothing to be honest).
Thanks in advance! 🙂
As in, they only make one of each – I think they take something that needs repair, or a vintage material, and make only one of them. Hence why you can’t find it there
Thank you very much Simon for the quick response as always!
Can we address the skin colour question?
I guess ask your question and I’ll leave Milad free to answer if he wants to
I puzzled over what “the skin color question” might be and I think it’s probably this: is someone with a different skin tone going to look as amazing in, for example, a creme caramel colored suit? And, of course, the answer is “no.” But am I wrong in thinking that the point of these ‘how to dress like …’ articles is less ‘run out and get yourself a crème caramel suit like this guy,’ and more ‘check out how this guy has found a suit that makes his skin look amazing; you should find a suit in a fabric that makes you look amazing’? Less ‘these outfits’ and more ‘these ideas’?
I like Milad’s sense of dress, and it seems to embody an aesthetic that I’m seeing more and more. Guys wearing full cut denim with substantial knitwear with slouchy great coats or beat-up waxed or leather jackets, finished with a favorite ball cap or beanie, and maybe a Western belt for flair. I’m not sure what to call it, but it’s something I enjoy and find myself aspiring to more frequently. A combination of clothes with character, whether drawn from the classic menswear canon or other influences like western wear and prep, but worn in a relaxed, casual way that doesn’t bring an RL mannequin to mind.
I like Milad’s style. But, as he says, I think stature is one of the biggest influences on whether something looks good or not. While he points out that quite tight clothes don’t work for him, clothes that are too wide – in my opinion – don’t work very well for someone who is short and thin. Such a person looks even smaller and somewhat lost in it, or like a wannabe rapper. In my humble opinion, the relation between stature and loose-tight fit gets somewhat too little attention on Permanent Style, especially in the comments section.
Nice article on one of my favourite menswear photographers.
Is this possibly a companion piece to the coming Jamie Ferguson Q&A? (Just Kidding)
Your last statement about dressing simply and well is a bit puzzling. Why does one have to be experimental to express oneself? Personally, I find tremendous freedom in dressing simply and well which is, unless you’re changing it, the PS motto. There’s plenty of opportunity for self expression in simplicity.
No Scott, no change there, my point was just that it’s easier to teach someone to wear solid foundational things – brown suede loafers or boots, grey flannels or good jeans, a navy knit or soft jacket and so on – than it is to show how them how to make their own decisions and experiment, which can mean very subtle, simple things, or bigger things, but is still experimentation. The next stage is often about personal exploration, but because that’s be definition more personal and diverse, it’s more a case of suggestions and principles than straightforward teaching.
I hope that makes better sense!
Yes sir it does, thank you. Your article “How to Dress Like Bruce Boyer” made those exact points concerning those subtle, simple things.
Hi both: great article. As someone of a similar complexion to Milad, I wonder what either of your thoughts are on wearing camel/sand like colours as Milad does (successfully, I might add) with the Polo Coat. I have historically avoided these for fear of being “washed out” into one block of colour (clothing and skin too similar) but wonder whether I am mistaken looking at these images. Especially since a polo coat like that is so useful in transitioning between the casual and formal. Please forgive if this comment is inappropriate.
I’ll let Milad answer if he wants to Ali, but I’d also refer you to the article we did on this here, where I make the point that what is closest to the face makes a big difference. I don’t notice the colour of the polo coat in that way because there’s a knit and shirt in between
similar complexion to Milad too, and the owner of a camel coat – I’ve found that two things help
I definitely agree with his point of view. I also hate the modern trend (finally dying out? I’ll truly believe it when I see it, and here in Italy I still don’t) of tailoring super slim and in the end unwearable for an actual day of work (even in an office, let alone doing something more active like his job). And I especially hate excessive slimness in parts that don’t even make sense aesthetically, like tight sleeves: as he notes, you can’t move comfortably, yet it doesn’t even improve the look in any capacity, you don’t look slimmer if the sleeves are slimmer – there is nothing to gain from it. And straight-ish trousers over very tapered ones is the one thing I will die on a hill for.
I actually have the same feeling about knitwear, lately I’ve been looking everywhere for some knits that are more roomy in the arms so that I can actually wear them over shirts, but I can’t find any, they all seem to be cut to only work over t-shirts (i.e. really hugging the arm). Yet I see everybody wearing knits over shirts, so either it’s me (but I don’t even lift!) or I’m not sure why they don’t work for me.
I only managed to find one second-hand that fits as I would like.
Look 4 is actually my favourite (although personally I wouldn’t be comfortable showing as much chest hair), that brown shade is perfect and the slightly unique accessories definitely seem to suit him, possibly because of the hair and beard.
Great selection of fits, everything is very coherent as part of a wardrobe. I wish there was a better shot of the Anthology suit, I’m curious about the cut.
I presume you’ve seen my review of their single-breasted notch-lapel suit, AK? The style is essentially the same. Or did you mean in terms of proportions on Milad?
The style of yours is very nice! I’m more similar in proportion to Milad, and climate means there’s unfortunately little need for tweed in my life.
I fear I am about to become something of a comment section pariah, so would like to caveat what I’m about to say with this; I do genuinely appreciate that much of Permanent Style’s increased featuring of the Menswear Industry’s Major Dudes is for the sake of providing inspiration as to how us non-menswear people can incorporate certain ideas into our clothing more generally.
This is not an attack on Mr Abedi, or any specific individual anywhere, but him least of all given how ‘normal’ much of his clothing seems to be, but I wonder if I speak only for myself when I speak to a certain fatigue on seeing this sort of content. Similarly dressed men, dressing by way of outlandish conservatism, taking photos of one another looking really quite serious about the serious business of taking photos of one another looking serious, whilst wearing tasseled suede jackets. (I still think the PS photographer, Jamie’s ‘how to dress like’ was particularly refreshing and that was sometime ago, before what I perceive to be a real uptick in this sort of content)
I guess my point is this: much of what I loved about PS was your (Simon’s) breakdowns, advice, reviews and guidance. It was invaluable and something that could be found nowhere else. I’d go as far as to say it changed my life. Perhaps not at the magnitude of a near-death experience or a health scare, but it has certainly transformed part of my day to day experience and suspect it has for many others too. Of course, there is presumably a cap on how much of that you can actually write without just repeating yourself.
However, I wonder if this slide towards a particular focus on ‘the industry’ somewhat dilutes the heart of what PS was originally about. Seeing the style exploits of ‘Tony, Ethan and Friends!’ seems a little hollow to me and the recent bashing of peacocks at Pitti seemed to lack self awareness, when looking at the celebrated and revered industry men, who dress in a manner that to me screams peacocking, just in a slightly different albeit more tasteful genre. None of this en masse seems all that helpful in adding to the average readers sense of style I don’t think. And when it’s the same menswear celebs wearing the same brands in basically the same ways, it starts to seem like a bit of a boys club lacking the nuance, sophistication and humility that PS used to exude.
Of course, this complaint could easily be responded to with if you don’t like it, stop looking at it and I appreciate that if this is what PS now is, then the problem is likely not it’s but rather mine!
I appreciate the feedback, as always.
One thing I’d make clear is that there is no lack of content I want to write, and that is exactly the kind of style you refer to, and have found so inspiring over the years. There’s lots of that, and it will continue.
What I have done in the past three years is broaden the coverage slightly, rather than move it all in one direction, and I know a lot of readers have liked that move; but at the same time there will be others who would rather it were kept narrower.
Personally I think there’s lots of room for that broadening, given we publish three articles a week, over 150 a year. The majority of it is still the first type, and there’s lots and lots of it as a result.
As you say, what you find interesting is also quite personal, and every time we do a Reader Profile, someone will comment saying the person is too boring and normal. So you can’t win either way – with over 1.5 million people reading the site, there’s always going to be a range of views.
Perhaps one other thing worth saying is that I never see the imagery as the main point of these articles – because there’s so much of it elsewhere. More valuable to me, personally, is the discussion of them – why and how someone wants to and feels they can wear a tasseled suede, for example, when I never would.
Interesting points. I will perhaps row back slightly on my previous comments. Being someone who reads about menswear more than is probably advisable, looks at various threads, discussion boards and instagram accounts often, I may well be conflating imagery I’ve seen elsewhere with the occasional splash of it used in your articles. I think my criticism was not entirely fair for that reason.
Nor was it fair for another perhaps more personal reason. Many of the things I myself have adopted through said inspiration and personal exploration, seem to have saturated the menswear market considerably. Raglan sleeved coats. Paraboot shoes. Silver ostrich belts. Clothes bought from Drake’s, The Anthology and Anglo-Italian. I think my previous comment was rather lacking in a self-awareness of it’s own! Seeing many of the same faces frequently wearing the same things makes me feel rather trite in certain sartorial decisions I myself have made (or rather been influenced into making!)
Not sure it’s entirely fair of me to lay the blame for that feeling at the door of Tony Sylvester and Ethan Newton, two men I have never met in my life. I suspect you would say something about life not occurring on social media and instagram.
… or perhaps I just really want to work in menswear and am bitter about how much fun you all appear to be having… will explore it in therapy (that’s what I call styleforum.net!)
Interesting reflections, thanks Jackson. I certainly agree that life does not happen online. Who cares whether people on social media accounts in a different city and even different country are wearing the same thing?
I think you do provide a diverse range of subject matter, which is to be applauded. I tend to only skim this type of article and look at the very professional pictures. One point in relation to Jackson’s comment regarding the Pitti article is that the so-called ‘peacocks’ tend to be laughing and look like they are having fun, whereas the professionals tend to adopt a faux serious pose or stare into the middle distance. That’s simply an observation that this appears two sides of the same coin – not In any way a criticism. It did occur to me at the time and Jackson’s comment brought it to mind again.
Thanks Stephen. To be honest I think both types do both, and actually in this piece about half the pictures are of Milad when he’s just working, so not even posing.
I do think it shouldn’t really matter what facial expression people are doing as well. I know it does, but we should resist that if we can
Agree. My point was just that they are opposite sides of the same coin (IMO).
I find on the contrary that reading how “menswear guys” dress and think about dress can be quite helpful for the guys who wants to push the envelope just a bit. I’m not wearing leopard print slippers anytime soon, but the same thinking mentioned in this piece is what made me venture out and get my first hat, for instance.
Having a mix of industry guys and readers is a very nice thing, I think. And these kind of articles along with coverage of more casual pieces and more mtm tailoring is really what has kept PS relevant to a lot of us readers, I’m sure. After all, any piece of advise one could need for the basis of bespoke or building a wardrobe has very likely been covered numerous times on here throughout the years.
I’d still love to read a how to dress like with Tommaso Capozzoli, Agyesh Madan, the Saman Amel guys, Buzz of Anthology, to name a few.
Tommaso because he always manages to look great and relaxed even in conservative pieces, by adding pops of color (and a healthy dose of good looks and hair which sadly can’t be commissioned).
Agyesh for his insights and thoughts on color and texture. And the SA guys for much of the same even though I’d argue they’re at opposite ends of the spectrum, and between themselves dress quite differently.
Buzz because he’s a young guy leading a tailoring house in todays day and age, yet seems to have quite a different approach than Saman Amel, for instance, yet both feel equally relevant to me.
I wonder how some of the guys who featured on older editions of this interesting thread would respond now. More casual stuff would feature now I would guess.
Good point, they likely would
I have a definite bias but I think the brother needs a better hat than the ‘slept in’ looking ball caps. There are so many great styles of men’s hats that don’t have to be a formal fedora. Many snappy casual styles can be had……all men should have a casual ‘grab and go’ fur felt hat. It really helps up the game from the prosaic ball cap or watch cap.
Outfit 4. Looks like a guy who killed John Wick’s dog and is not concerned about it.
fire piece! you are appreciated! what is the beige/camel colored coat hes wearing on the final pic you have posted please. the details are amazing.
Thanks, it’s the polo coat I helped design for The Anthology – details here.
Simon, I”d like to extend my most sincere gratitude for this post covering Milad. As an Iranian menswear enthusiast I am both honored and delighted to see what a stylish country man I have. Give my warmest regards to Milad next time you work with him.
I will, and thank you. You should see his Dad too, he was really stylish
I can imagine . keep shining Simon.