Brands need to talk about product
December 29th 2017There are several ways to define the menswear world we write about. As classic style, for instance, or about quality and craft. Also as luxury, given such quality is expensive. But one aspect that is rarely emphasised, and should be more in my opini...
Brands need to talk about product
Match in comments:
Well, my main point was, that the quality is often not there. I don't have an issue with paying a premium price for a premium product, but I won't pay it for an average or even below average product. Here's an example: R...
Our Autumn knitwear Top 10
October 11th 2017The survey we did of Spring/Summer pieces in the shops was very popular back in June. This Autumn/Winter, therefore, we thought we’d do two separate ones - the first (today) on winter knitwear, and the second on casual winter coats. As with th...
Our Autumn knitwear Top 10
Match in comments:
Hi Sebastian, Bear in mind that Scott & Charters was unusual in selling direct to retail as a mill, and I think over time they've proven why, as it's a hard model for a factory to do if they don't invest in the retail si...
Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan
August 18th 2017Rather a contrast this to Wednesday's post on dressing for hot weather. But it's good to look ahead to Autumn (God I'm looking forward to it - the coats, the knitwear, the hats!). And it's nice to be able to write about something that's actually in...
Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan
Match in comments:
It's a mix of two things: the cut I find a little too slim and tapered now, and the washes I don't like that much - they feel a bit too artificial. I'd go with raw denim and wear them in yourself....
Summer colours: Tobacco and tan
May 12th 2017Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer. As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this. They are displayed on my wonderf...
Summer colours: Tobacco and tan
Match in comments:
That bunch is no longer current I'm afraid (as with pretty much all cloths older than 2 or 3 years). Most still carry a natural or biscuit-coloured version however...
The suede blouson for travel
August 10th 2016Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alternative to a tailored jacket. ...
The suede blouson for travel
Match in comments:
I wouldn't wear it with indigo jeans, no, though most of these might be a little smart for that anyway. I wouldn't wear olive that way either. If that's the look you want, you're better looking at the RRL western options...
New York: A sartorial city guide
October 14th 2015New York is a strange town for menswear. It’s a bit of a Wild West, without the same traditions of Europe and with bespoke largely undermined by visitors from Savile Row. If there is a tradition, it is for value: low-priced sack suits that a...
Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal de...
August 17th 2015In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together. Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubinacci cashmere jacket. The corn...
Casual tie and sports jacket (military donegal de...
Match in comments:
Hi, I'm afraid I never did an article about the belt, but I can do something more general in the future, yes absolutely...
The eternal style of the shawl-collar cardigan
September 29th 2014If you don’t own a shawl-collar cardigan, it’s the one sweater you should invest in this winter. No other knitwear is more versatile: its collar makes it the only style that works with T-shirts, shirts or polos, for everyone. Some m...
The eternal style of the shawl-collar cardigan
Match in comments:
I have two of the shawl collared cardigans from Drake’s and a William Lockie labelled one that I bought from Richard Gelding (Baltzar). Although they look identical, they’re not in reality. The Lockie one seems to be...
Pictures from Pitti Uomo 2014
January 12th 2014A few of the pictures of me from Pitti this year. Above, in brown tweed Caliendo jacket (more on that in a couple of weeks), Anderson & Sheppard flannels and Ralph Lauren madder-like orange handkerchief. Tweed such as this goes well with lot...
Pictures from Pitti Uomo 2014
Match in comments:
There would need to be more contrast in texture, yes. Try charcoal plain-weave or fresco perhaps...
RRL: Vintage outerwear and modern fit
November 27th 2013If I have an addiction outside of tailoring, it is not shoes or ties but outerwear. Leather jackets, suede blousons, trench coats: I love the ability of such big pieces to radically change a look and a silhouette. Leather, cotton and their derivative...
RRL: Vintage outerwear and modern fit
Match in comments:
A great article! There's a lot of good stuff described and pictured here. Outerwear is probably my "addiction" - why is it so neglected by British men? But please don't use the expression "outside of" as you do in your f...
A good tool for removing pilling from sweaters
September 9th 2013I’m not great at looking after anything apart from shoes. Suits I brush down occasionally, but certainly not after every use, and knitwear rarely gets much of a look-in. In an effort to change this I recently picked up a few of the garment care...
A good tool for removing pilling from sweaters
Match in comments:
I know this is a very old post, but I found some of the movie's suits on Ebay, apparently all the tailoring was made by Cantarelli. Hope that helps....
How to buy a quality suit
February 12th 2013Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is an endorsement, a shortcut. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid, and popular culture i...
How to buy a quality suit
Match in comments:
Thank you Simon, this helps a ton....
Ralph Lauren: The enduring appeal
May 28th 2012This has been said many times before in more abstract ways, but it deserves to be stated distinctly. It is astounding how effective Ralph Lauren has been at selling a very particular dream over the past 45 years. This was my dominant thought during a...
Ralph Lauren: The enduring appeal
Match in comments:
Great reporting! Right on the mark. Best of the Big-Name Preppies. The only highly commercial brand that manages to maintain both perceived and real quality. Selling pedigree to haves and have-nots alike. That said, Ralp...
Stuff on eBay
February 2nd 2012In case anyone’s interested, I’m selling a few lovely things on eBay over the next few weeks – essentially ready-to-wear jackets or suits from Kilgour, Ralph Lauren Purple Label or others that have had to make way for be...
Stuff on eBay
Match in comments:
Glad you like it. Check out the Ralph Lauren suit on there at the moment - purple label one going on tomorrow as well. The scent is likely a mix of cedar wood and the Al Bazar house perfume, which comes in sachets you ca...
The window dressing of Hackett
October 14th 2011One of the main reasons that I (and I assume most other men) read blogs is to get inspiration for things to wear. Or to buy in order to wear. I know I should write more posts on the former. Ideally, every shop window should provide such inspiration o...
The window dressing of Hackett
Match in comments:
Cheers Marcus, hope you enjoy the book...
English Cut and Thomas Mahon: made to measure
September 27th 2011During a recent conversation with Thomas Mahon of English Cut, I was interested to hear about the made-to-measure service that he is launching in India. The tailors he has hired and trained are among those that suffered from the tsunami in south Asia...
English Cut and Thomas Mahon: made to measure
Match in comments:
I don't know I'm afraid Mark, sorry...
Rugby Ralph Lauren and the Tweed Run NYC
September 13th 2011Apparently I’m now a pin-up for Ralph Lauren Rugby, and its sponsorship of the Tweed Run in New York. Click on the site here and scroll down to the photos from past events at the bottom.
Rugby Ralph Lauren and the Tweed Run NYC
Match in comments:
Those shirts that RL Rugby has in the Mens sale look good with the club collars. Does anyone know where these styles can be bought anywhere else? RL's prices are a bit steep for me....
Suit, Shirt, Tie 1: Pink and green
August 24th 2011One of my favourite colour combinations is pink and green. The pink here is pale, too pale perhaps to be portrayed accurately in the photo, but it provides a subtle field of colour for green to play on. The green tie, from Neapolitan maker Isaia, is ...
Suit, Shirt, Tie 1: Pink and green
Match in comments:
Thanks, yes love those pale pink Oxford cloths...
The virtues of a shawl-collar cardigan
December 17th 2010I’ve always liked shawl-collar cardigans. One reason is that I have a long neck, which benefits from a collar. T-shirts and round-neck sweaters tend to make me look scrawny. Shirts, polo shirts and polo-collared sweaters provide more support. T...
The virtues of a shawl-collar cardigan
Match in comments:
Certainly David, that would work. It could start to look a little old-mannish, but that could be alleviated with the cut or colour - or simply leant into if that's your style...
A lovely evening sewing a sweater
October 20th 2010There is such pleasure in looking after good clothes well. One of the reasons shoes are my favourite piece of clothing is they actually get better with age: the upper shapes to your foot; perhaps more importantly, the insole does too; and the leather...
A lovely evening sewing a sweater
Match in comments:
Just finished my darn. It came out very passably - just wanted to say thanks for the encouragement!...
Wear charcoal with black
September 17th 2010There are very few suits with which I would not naturally wear brown shoes – a deep, burnished chocolate looks better with everything from navy herringbone to grey check. But charcoal is an exception. The only other is probably black, which...
Wear charcoal with black
Match in comments:
Sure John. To be honest I'm pretty confident about the brown, while I would find the green harder to advise on remotely. It sounds like you're on the right lines though, so wear both and see how you get on...
Rescuing shoes
August 9th 2010A lesson today in the damage caused by not treating your shoes right; but how they can be repaired if you don’t. My friend John is very fond of shoes. But he can be a little bit careless when it comes to their maintenance. My three golden rules...
Rescuing shoes
Match in comments:
Good point Amar, to be honest I hadn't thought about that. I guess you're looking for how much they've worn down. With Dainite you're not going to be going through the sole, at least for a very long time, but I would hav...
The reputation of Smith & Co
July 26th 2010Following on from my note last week on the history of W Bill, here’s some information gleaned on the history of Smith Woollens. For many, including my tailor, Smith’s is a brand they swear by. Worsteds that are often a little bit pricier ...
The reputation of Smith & Co
Match in comments:
I have a cream lambswool twinset size 42" bearing the label in both pieces 'W BILL, Old Bond Street - pure cashmere', in perfect condition. I would be interested to know if it was produced before W Gibb was taken over an...
Back to Bicester Village
December 9th 2009It probably wasn’t hard to feel the excitement behind the words of my last post on Bicester Village. One friend’s favourite-ever quote from this blog says it all: “I am at heart a cheap man.” (From a post last year on buying l...
Back to Bicester Village
Match in comments:
thanks mate.Does the train stop in the Outlet.and how does one get to La Valee (is it any good). Are the R.L brogues still on offer...
The wonders of Bicester Village
November 4th 2009I am a sucker for a good deal. Indeed, if one were being unkind it could be said that sometimes being a bargain gets in the way of my actually wanting something. Anywhere north of 80% off and I start to feel giddy. For a long time I’ve been a f...
The wonders of Bicester Village
Match in comments:
hey.. i'm going to bicester village for boxing day,26th. will arrive at stansted airport. how to get to bicester village? (stansted-stratford-marylebone-bicester north-bicester village.) is that the best route or there's...
