The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

May 16th 2022

Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...

The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

Match in comments:
I can see I might go to someone with more experience, yes, though I believe Steven would have that. I would certainly ask. I wouldn't necessarily go to a more traditional tailor though, no. I would certainly trust Davide...

Jackets - SuitsMay 16th 2022

A story in suits: My history with Anderson &...

April 27th 2022

I had my first suit made at Anderson & Sheppard 12 years ago, in 2010. As I begin a series looking at the making of a new A&S jacket, I thought it would be interesting, even fun, to look back at that first suit and the ones that fol...

A story in suits: My history with Anderson &...

Match in comments:
Mostly because I found his work to be more consistently good. A&S does a slight belly on their jackets by default, but yes the blue linen does have a little less of that - it's so long ago I can't remember whether I aske...

SuitsApril 27th 2022

Cocktail attire: An argument for a new type of ev...

December 31st 2021

Just before Christmas, I organised a Permanent Style Christmas dinner, to thank a few people that had helped and supported PS in recent years. We were hosted by Geordie D’Anyers Willis of Berry Bros & Rudd, which was kind of Geordie, ...

Cocktail attire: An argument for a new type of ev...

Match in comments:
Great, sounds good David...

Black tie - StyleDecember 31st 2021

Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style...

December 29th 2021

Edward Sexton is famous for bringing sexy, dramatic tailoring to Savile Row in the 1960s and 1970s, as head cutter for Tommy Nutter. Mick and Bianca Jagger in white suits, The Beatles crossing Abbey Road: these are the looks we know. And today Edwar...

Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style...

Match in comments:
That’s great!...

SuitsDecember 29th 2021

Reader profile: Ben C

December 10th 2021

I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...

Reader profile: Ben C

Match in comments:
Love the semi-casual....

Jackets - StyleDecember 10th 2021

Brioni bespoke tailoring

September 22nd 2021

A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it. Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand made to measure have not alwa...

Brioni bespoke tailoring

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I see. To be honest I'm not sure size is a great indicator of that either - you only have to look at Michael Browne, one of the smallest but with a really strong reputation. Equally Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, whom I really ...

Jackets - SuitsSeptember 22nd 2021

Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown

September 13th 2021

*This is an extract from the book Bespoke Style, which is available here on the PS shop* Nunzio Pirozzi has a strong reputation in Naples. Indeed, he’s one of the few master tailors that other tailors consistently praise. (The usual method of e...

Pirozzi corduroy suit: Style breakdown

Match in comments:
Usually take to the cleaners, unless they say machine wash is fine, often with a more casual trouser like a 5-pocket style...

SuitsSeptember 13th 2021

The case for the Summer Suit. With tie

September 6th 2021

Thomas Mastronardi is one of the best-dressed men I know. So, in the spirit of welcoming a greater range of voices onto Permanent Style, I asked Tom to bookend the summer by writing something on the seersucker and linen suits he loves so much. We di...

The case for the Summer Suit. With tie

Match in comments:
thank you Simon...

SuitsSeptember 6th 2021

The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

July 12th 2021

*UPDATE: Since this article was published, Brioni has also been tried and reviewed, as has J Mueser* Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton ...

The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known

Match in comments:
Not really I'm afraid - the more formal cut is a little underserved for MTM. It's much easier to get softer Italian stuff, largely because all the factories are there...

Jackets - SuitsJuly 12th 2021

The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...

June 30th 2021

  This is a new installment in the series ‘ The rules and how to break them ’, which has been a little neglected in recent years. It’s a great little guide, exposing myths of menswear and calmly explaining the rationale be...

The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...

Match in comments:
I cannot believe its acceptable for the mayor of london to wear a suit without a tie, I work on a building site and have to wear hard hat ,boots and a hi vi's,xthats the dress code, if I worked in a office I would Don a ...

Style - SuitsJune 30th 2021

Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style bre...

June 21st 2021

**This article is an extract from our book ‘Bespoke Style’, which sold out in less than a month last year. A new print is ready and will be on sale soon. If you would like early access, or are interested in stocking the book, plea...

Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style bre...

Match in comments:
The nicest is cream, grey always works, and green can be good too. Even black. I wouldn't wear a linen jacket in winter myself...

SuitsJune 21st 2021

The T-shirt under tailoring

May 26th 2021

I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly. Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert t...

The T-shirt under tailoring

Match in comments:
Thanks for your time and input....

Jackets - StyleMay 26th 2021

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...

April 9th 2021

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury have achieved great popularity in recent years because of their pricing. They offer one service where the majority of the suit is made in their Indian workshop, and as a result can offer a Savile Row suit for just unde...

Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style ...

Match in comments:
I am aware everything has become quite quickly expensive over the past few years but their offshore suit now starts from around £3,200 which in my opinion is a massive jump in two years. I wasn’t really sceptical abou...

Cloth - SuitsApril 9th 2021

Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review

March 3rd 2021

This linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly f...

Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review

Match in comments:
Good point Markus. I think a lot about DBs is how you wear them...

SuitsMarch 3rd 2021

Outfits I got wrong

February 19th 2021

Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe. Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wear something different, and di...

Outfits I got wrong

Match in comments:
yes I would Jack...

Casual clothing - ShoesFebruary 19th 2021

Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tail...

January 22nd 2021

I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to the offshore products being ...

Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tail...

Match in comments:
Chris, I’m not sure if that particular distinction came in with C19 or before, but full bespoke or what would now be called Bespoke 1849....

SuitsJanuary 22nd 2021

Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review

November 18th 2020

This is the kind of suit that makes you glad you're wearing a suit. The kind you look forward to wearing, as a change to the floppy casual home stuff you've been in too much recently. Why? Because of the structure, the shoulder and to a lesser exte...

Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review

Match in comments:
Hi Lindsay, he is based out of the Oxo Tower Barge House St, visited him over the summer and he is one of the cheeriest people I have ever met. Also the suit he cut for me is stunning which just adds to the whole experie...

SuitsNovember 18th 2020

New book: Bespoke Style, the cuts of 25 of the wo...

October 19th 2020

Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time. It began in 2016, with the idea of trying to commission a suit or ja...

New book: Bespoke Style, the cuts of 25 of the wo...

Match in comments:
Thanks indeed....

SuitsOctober 19th 2020

Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke ta...

September 18th 2020

*Note: Joshua and Kimberley are now running their own, separate operations. Kimberly, at 'Lawton', can be found here* Dobrik & Lawton is two young tailors, Joshua Dobrik and Kimberley Lawton, that have set up on their own in their house in W...

Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke ta...

Match in comments:
Thanks David, yes good idea. They tend to go through a lot of changes, as Kimberley has here, now on her own, and it can seem like the best idea is to wait a bit - but perhaps a summary helps avoid that....

SuitsSeptember 18th 2020

The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review

August 28th 2020

With the continuing aim of covering more made-to-measure, I was keen to feature The Armoury’s tailoring on PS - both because I like the style, and because frankly there is little at their level in New York or Hong Kong. New York has lots of vi...

The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review

Match in comments:
The 101 is very well made, probably the best you can get for a MTM like this without getting into hand padding etc. However, I haven't tried the Ring Jacket and haven't looked at it for a bit - there's definitely a quali...

SuitsAugust 28th 2020

Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown

August 19th 2020

Gieves & Hawkes has rarely had a distinct house style in recent decades. Although historically a military and naval outfitter, and making its suits with a similar amount of structure and strength, the cut has varied with cutters. Kathryn Sa...

Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown

Match in comments:
Hey there, I would look at the bunches of W Bill, Brisbane Moss, Holland & Sherry and any other British mill that offers Irish linen. If you can't find a dark enough navy there, try and find someone that can source from ...

SuitsAugust 19th 2020

The guide to jacket pockets

July 27th 2020

  As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn&rsq...

The guide to jacket pockets

Match in comments:
Yes, this is done with lining cloth sometimes, and even (eg with drakes jackets) in the jacket material. It is to hold small items like coins, cards, even a phone if big enough...

Jackets - SuitsJuly 27th 2020

The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...

July 17th 2020

One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...

The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...

Match in comments:
Mostly the style...

Shirts - SuitsJuly 17th 2020

Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review

July 1st 2020

Kenjiro Suzuki is a superb technician. I think that’s the key take away from this review, aside from the normal points of fit, style and make. The work that went into this cotton suit he made me is just palpable, both in the handwork visible...

Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review

Match in comments:
I don't have anything, no sorry...

SuitsJuly 1st 2020

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

June 10th 2020

Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way. This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle of what made-to-measure should...

Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review

Match in comments:
Good advice. Thank you!...

SuitsJune 10th 2020