Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tail...
January 22nd 2021I recently started the process of having a suit made with the Edward Sexton offshore service. (Starting at £2500 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit.) This has been around for a few years, and is similar in many ways to the offshore products being ...
Edward Sexton ‘offshore bespoke’ tail...
Match in comments:
Chris, I’m not sure if that particular distinction came in with C19 or before, but full bespoke or what would now be called Bespoke 1849....
Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review
November 18th 2020This is the kind of suit that makes you glad you're wearing a suit. The kind you look forward to wearing, as a change to the floppy casual home stuff you've been in too much recently. Why? Because of the structure, the shoulder and to a lesser exte...
Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review
Match in comments:
Hi Lindsay, he is based out of the Oxo Tower Barge House St, visited him over the summer and he is one of the cheeriest people I have ever met. Also the suit he cut for me is stunning which just adds to the whole experie...
New book: Bespoke Style, the cuts of 25 of the wo...
October 19th 2020Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time. It began in 2016, with the idea of trying to commission a suit or ja...
New book: Bespoke Style, the cuts of 25 of the wo...
Match in comments:
It should be here at the beginning of next month. As always, the best way to get access is to email the support team and be on the waiting list...
Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke ta...
September 18th 2020*Note: Joshua and Kimberley are now running their own, separate operations. Kimberly, at 'Lawton', can be found here* Dobrik & Lawton is two young tailors, Joshua Dobrik and Kimberley Lawton, that have set up on their own in their house in W...
Dobrik & Lawton: Dramatic, unique bespoke ta...
Match in comments:
Thank you. However, you don't know anything about the privilege or not that these two have had. You are making a sweeping assumption based on their race. As noted above in the comments, ironically these two have had far ...
The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review
August 28th 2020With the continuing aim of covering more made-to-measure, I was keen to feature The Armoury’s tailoring on PS - both because I like the style, and because frankly there is little at their level in New York or Hong Kong. New York has lots of vi...
The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review
Match in comments:
Hi Simon, Stunning suit! Would you comment on any perceived quality or finishing differences between the 101 and the Armoury’s Ring Jacket MTM line? Is it worth the upgrade to the 101?...
Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown
August 19th 2020Gieves & Hawkes has rarely had a distinct house style in recent decades. Although historically a military and naval outfitter, and making its suits with a similar amount of structure and strength, the cut has varied with cutters. Kathryn Sa...
Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown
Match in comments:
Hey there, I would look at the bunches of W Bill, Brisbane Moss, Holland & Sherry and any other British mill that offers Irish linen. If you can't find a dark enough navy there, try and find someone that can source from ...
The guide to jacket pockets
July 27th 2020As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn&rsq...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
July 17th 2020One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
Match in comments:
Mostly the style...
Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review
July 1st 2020Kenjiro Suzuki is a superb technician. I think that’s the key take away from this review, aside from the normal points of fit, style and make. The work that went into this cotton suit he made me is just palpable, both in the handwork visible...
Kenjiro Suzuki bespoke, Paris: Review
Match in comments:
No, between the two, and probably verging more towards the English. There's less padding but still real shape and sharpness to them and the body and make overall...
Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review
June 10th 2020Let’s move the conclusion up to the top of this review, just to get it out of the way. This is a great made-to-measure suit. It’s fitted well, styled well and made well, and for me illustrates the pinnacle of what made-to-measure should...
Jean-Manuel Moreau made-to-measure suit: Review
Match in comments:
Thanks, that puts things into perspective....
Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review
June 1st 2020This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; a...
Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review
Match in comments:
Thanks, interesting to hear...
Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris
May 15th 2020Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, The Armoury, Ander...
Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris
Match in comments:
The biggest difference with Cad is that the work is done in India, not Europe. And I don't know the details of the work, but I don't think that is a full bespoke offering....
The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki (and mute cutt...
May 8th 2020How do you make sure your best cutter doesn’t leave, taking customers with him? Simple: never let him meet the customers. I’ve always been aware that Smalto, the Parisian tailor, had an unusual system in its cutting room. Unlike most t...
The French style of Kenjiro Suzuki (and mute cutt...
Match in comments:
Well, best to judge trousers on where they sit standing up I think. Have a look at my various suit reviews and you'll get a better sense of the trouser length I like - eg the review of Suzuki's suit is here I'm not sure ...
Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown
May 1st 2020(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.) Sartoria Panico is known as one of the more tradit...
Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown
Match in comments:
Pretty much all of them - black perhaps the least, but even then I can see it...
Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI...
April 27th 2020Benson & Clegg is not a button shop. I didn’t realise until I went in, earlier this year, quite how much it has gained that reputation. It's partly a result of their own good promotion over the years, but perhaps more significantly be...
Benson & Clegg bespoke – and George VI...
Match in comments:
Interesting to see non-flapped pockets on these old DB overcoats...
Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit
April 24th 2020Here is the final video in our series on how a jacket should fit. The first looked at the basics of fit, while the second was on the length of a suit jacket. In this third one, we look at how much the fit of a suit is a matter of comfort. So arguing...
Video: Comfort vs style in the fit of a suit
Match in comments:
Navy serge, as here....
Video: How long should a jacket be?
March 30th 2020This is the second in a series of videos in which we're looking at how a jacket should fit. The first one, here, was a summary of the basics on fit. In this second one, we look at the length of a jacket. This is the kind of thing that can seem like ...
Video: How long should a jacket be?
Match in comments:
There is a tradition that they should be a little shorter, but really I think that's been erased with the different lengths of jackets generally from different tailoring traditions now available. I'd say more the opposit...
Video: How a jacket should fit
March 9th 2020This is the first in a series of three videos in which I look at how a jacket should fit. In this first one, we cover the basics around the jacket - front, back and side. It's a useful summary of the main points, and applies as much to a high-street...
Video: How a jacket should fit
Match in comments:
It's hard to say Jack - if those items are quick bulky, it might be inevitable, but that also depends on the cloth. If it were something that could be done with letting out, it would be the chest and perhaps the waist. B...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
December 30th 2019As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
Match in comments:
Not particularly, but just because my experience with BN Tailor wasn't great, so hard to comment on accurately, and I haven't tried any others...
Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown
November 25th 2019I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it. Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences. So th...
Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown
Match in comments:
I'd be absolutely fine in it indoors, but I guess it depends a little on how hot you run generally. No, those other suitings would be sharper and feel a little different....
The Anthology bespoke tailoring: Review
November 20th 2019This is my first suit from Hong Kong and Taipei-based tailor The Anthology. Launched in 2018, The Anthology was created by the combination of London-educated Buzz Tang (below) and Hong Kong tailor Andy Chong, using a workshop in mainland China. Th...
The Anthology bespoke tailoring: Review
Match in comments:
Nice i want to try,thank you for sharing good tailor house...
Gaetano Aloisio – by Bruce Boyer
November 1st 2019I do not know Roman tailor Gaetano Aloisio. But I've heard good things, and seen one or two as well. So when Bruce Boyer told me he was having a suit made by Gaetano, I asked whether he would write something brief about his experiences. It's not a ...
Gaetano Aloisio – by Bruce Boyer
Match in comments:
Great! Cannot wait to read It. I’ll be going there in late July. Hopefully it’s done before!...
Suit style 6: Buttons
September 23rd 2019This is the sixth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post or on the dedicated guide page here. God, I love a good button. Some are ...
Suit style 6: Buttons
Match in comments:
No I think that would look fine Jack...
The dark shirt
August 26th 2019Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think. It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of salesman. If done right, though...
The dark shirt
Match in comments:
Ah, I see. No I don't think there's much of that risk, but I would still try a darker shirt then too...
Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown
August 5th 2019Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is best known for the style of its...
Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown
Match in comments:
That would be fine Rupesh, it's not a big difference between the two weaves, and both can be great...
