Luca Museo navy three-piece suit: Review
October 14th 2024Yeah, the collar on this shirt is kinda high. I remembered it as soon as I saw these images - it was one I tried with a higher collar in order to wear with my A&S tailoring, which always has a high collar itself. It looks nice with those pie...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 3 (sleeves)
September 25th 2024One of the most important functional aspects of a bespoke suit is its small armhole. Or rather, the way a large sleeve can be worked into a small armhole. It means the sleeve is separated, and can move around without dragging the body with it. Howev...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 3 (sleeves)
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Yes, usually...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
September 4th 2024In the past few months on Permanent Style, we’ve shown a few outfits that are a little more unusual than perhaps typical: a notch or two further along the subtle/showy scale . The Art du Lin suit at Pitti probably falls into that category, as...
Reviving the navy chalk-stripe suit: Ciardi DB in...
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Chiming in late but pleased to have discovered this article. Agreed that the cloth influences one's perception of the cut and moves it away from business connotations. At this point I would likely only consider a double-...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 2 (lapels)
September 2nd 2024In this, the second of our films looking at the details of making a bespoke suit, we're focusing on lapels. But not necessarily the hand padding - that most obvious sign of handwork, which you can see on the back of most bespoke lapels. We've covere...
The work in a bespoke jacket: Part 2 (lapels)
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No, the Sedwell style never really appealed to me at all unfortunately...
The best German tailors working today
August 26th 2024By Bernhard Roetzel. In part one of this article I gave an overview of the state of bespoke tailoring in Germany, including its history. Today I will recommend some specific tailors, including my own experiences. Volkmar Arnulf www.arnulf-massatelie...
The best German tailors working today
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I stumbled upon 2 names in Hamburg which appear to be doing real bespoke tailoring: Sandro Dühnforth (mentioned in another comment by Matthias Rollmann) Madlen Feurstein who I guess is a former student of Dühnforth and...
The work in a bespoke jacket, with Jennie Adamson...
August 12th 2024One of the ways I think video can be very useful is showing how craft is done, rather than just the static nature of pictures. It worked well for the film we did with Dege & Skinner, showing how much difference pressing makes, and the ones w...
The work in a bespoke jacket, with Jennie Adamson...
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Hi Roy, In the end, if you do a lot of physical exercise your body is going to change now and again, and bespoke will never be able to fit perfectly. Unfortunately that's inevitable. But I would suggest perhaps having th...
Cream linen DB suit from Taillour: Review
August 7th 2024By Manish Puri Even when scarred with multiple, dubious stains that were immune to the efforts of the finest dry cleaners, I soldiered on with my first ever pair of cream linen trousers - commissioned eight years ago at Graham Browne . However, even...
Cream linen DB suit from Taillour: Review
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Thank you Simon. You are right, the brightness is what was catching my eye....
Buck Mason: Good value staples
July 17th 2024A reader recently asked why there is a correlation between shorter, tighter styles of clothing and lower prices. Why are all the styles we like from more expensive brands? It makes it very hard for someone on a lower income to get into more classic ...
Buck Mason: Good value staples
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Pleasure James...
The Armoury’s full range of tailoring surveyed
July 10th 2024The Armoury offers one of the best, and certainly widest, ranges of MTM tailoring around, but it can be a little confusing. Five years ago, I wrote an article setting out the models in New York and what I thought about them. Given that was popular,...
The Armoury’s full range of tailoring surveyed
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I can't remember I'm afraid Jason, sorry...
Brown ‘Art du Lin’ suit from Pirozzi and Whitcomb
June 26th 2024Quite a few people have asked about how the ‘Art du Lin’ linen from Solbiati performs, as it’s become quite a trend across different tailoring brands. Indeed, I hear Solbiati have now largely sold out of a lot of it and there are l...
Brown ‘Art du Lin’ suit from Pirozzi and Whitcomb
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Yes I think Art du Lin would probably be better, though it would be great to see one after a few years...
Assisi double-breasted summer suit: Review
May 20th 2024This suit from Korean tailor Assisi has already been teased a couple of times on PS. Once during the fitting process in Seoul , where it frankly looked impossibly clean. And once when I wore it for our summer drinks in the Burlington Arcade. No sui...
Assisi double-breasted summer suit: Review
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I don't think there's much of a difference in formality, no, so I wouldn't worry about it. I tend to prefer rounded buckles as they feel more classic to me, but it's a style choice rather than one about formality or some...
Collars are more flattering with tailoring –...
April 17th 2024I’ve regularly worn T-shirts or crewnecks under tailoring over the years. Not as frequently as a collared shirt, but when you’re always looking for more ways to wear suits and jackets, the more relaxed look of a T-shirt has perennial app...
A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear
April 8th 2024By Manish Puri There’s not exactly a shortage of quality secondhand and vintage stores in Stockholm. Take a stroll along Hornsgatan for example - a busy road running through the Södermalm neighbourhood - and within just a few hundred metr...
A. Marchesan, Stockholm: Curated Period Menswear
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Hi Dario I had a similar dilemma when buying my coat from A. Marchesan. The advice a friend gave me was to not fixate on the secondhand price, but think about how much a new coat of similar style and quality would cost. ...
Husbands: Still sexy after all these years
April 3rd 2024Husbands in Paris makes quality menswear - tailoring and related clothing - in a particular seventies-influenced style that has remained impressively consistent over the past dozen years. The suits aren’t usually my style, but the fabrics are ...
Husbands: Still sexy after all these years
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Interesting you felt mislead, they were always super upfront to me about the ready to wear being made in Italy and the MTO in Portugal. I believe it's quite a unique product they've built in Portugal, almost wondering if...
B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style
February 5th 2024When I travelled to Korea back in December, one of the places I was keenest to visit was B&Tailor . Because, like many people, I’d been impressed for years at what I’d seen from Chad Park and his colleagues, but hadn’t had ...
B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style
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Hi Vicky, To be honest it's unlikely we would cover you if you are in Thailand and not travelling around the world I'm afraid, as it would only be relevant to a very small selection of readers...
The breadth and style of Korean tailoring
December 18th 2023On the Wednesday night of my recent trip to Seoul, there was a party to celebrate the anniversary of the local cloth agency, Renovatio. The founder Sam Ahn invited everyone in the industry, and over 200 people turned up. I have never seen so many w...
The breadth and style of Korean tailoring
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Thanks for the overview. I do wonder whether phrases like "low-level" or "standard in a less industrialized country" might unintentionally downplay the skill and tradition involved. Hong Kong and Seoul also had different...
The future of Savile Row, with Anda Rowland: Video
December 11th 2023This talk a couple of weeks ago with Anda Rowland was flagged as a discussion of the future of Savile Row. And while we did talk about that – including how to get more new tailors into the area – the most interesting area was probably ho...
The future of Savile Row, with Anda Rowland: Video
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Lovely to hear, thank you. A&S made it, it's a dark grey worsted...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
November 29th 2023By Manish Puri I’ve been commissioning made-to-measure and bespoke garments for six years. In any other sphere, that amount of experience might qualify me as an expert. So, it’s telling about the nature of bespoke - the slow production ...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Working with...
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Manish, which bespoke tailors, with an upper budget cap of £2500, can create a mid-night blue or within that ball-park a jacket designed for versatility and comfort, meeting the following specifications: a very relaxed,...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
November 10th 2023I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
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Yes, though they are quite happy to move it a bit...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
October 11th 2023Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material. For those that don’t know, Solaro ...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
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Hey Andrew, Always as a suit myself. That look sounds like it shouldn't work, as you say. I suspect it may have been a combination of a few things that made it work - eg an old and worn-in jacket, worn undone, soft make ...
Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour:...
September 6th 2023There are two parts to this piece: one, Fred; two, chalkstripes. Given it's a review, let's do the first one first. This is the first piece of tailoring Fred Nieddu has made for me, having previously made a more unusual piece, a belted suede jacket...
Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour:...
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That looks like a great fit on you! Really hard to answer with precision on the style vs bespoke, but there are definitely elements there, such as the lapel width and the small notch Fred likes. Hard to say also on the c...
Sartoria Seminara and Vittorio Salino: Maintainin...
September 1st 2023Like most Italian tailors, Sartoria Seminara is hidden away. There is no Savile Row grand entrance, just a name and a buzzer and a short walk up a flight of dark stairs. The effect is all the greater because this entrance is on Via dei Calzaiuoli ,...
Sartoria Seminara and Vittorio Salino: Maintainin...
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I think he is a gentleman who is more comfortable with other people standing center stage....
Five good ready-made suits under £1000
August 16th 2023By Manish Puri The attention of Permanent Style has always been - and will continue to remain - trained upon the highest quality garments in the world. However, there are barriers to accessing the very best – especially with suits. You might l...
Five good ready-made suits under £1000
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I'm in the possibly rare situation of having a lot of separates and only recently decided I'd like to get a couple of (ideally, casual) suits. Unfortunately I can't seem to find a satisfying product there, it's much hard...
Reader profile: Ian
August 14th 2023Ian is retired, and got into luxury menswear late in life. But he always had an interest in clothes, from his early days in Ivy clothing to the forties and fifties influences that came with learning jive dancing. It could be easy to see him as bein...
Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
August 9th 2023Speciale is a beautiful little shop in the west of London, making fine bespoke tailoring and unique shirts and knits. I should have covered Bert and George earlier and I haven't, and it's entirely my fault. My only excuse is location. Speciale is a...
Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
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I can try to, yes, although to be honest I'm not sure when. Speciale is very nice for bespoke but at the same time I wouldn't say the making is very different from most other Florentine tailoring we've covered, as far as...
