Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour:...
September 6th 2023There are two parts to this piece: one, Fred; two, chalkstripes. Given it's a review, let's do the first one first. This is the first piece of tailoring Fred Nieddu has made for me, having previously made a more unusual piece, a belted suede jacket...
Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour:...
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In that case I think it could work Richard, though the char-brown trousers would definitely be the more sensible and versatile choice...
Sartoria Seminara and Vittorio Salino: Maintainin...
September 1st 2023Like most Italian tailors, Sartoria Seminara is hidden away. There is no Savile Row grand entrance, just a name and a buzzer and a short walk up a flight of dark stairs. The effect is all the greater because this entrance is on Via dei Calzaiuoli ,...
Sartoria Seminara and Vittorio Salino: Maintainin...
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I think he is a gentleman who is more comfortable with other people standing center stage....
Five good ready-made suits under £1000
August 16th 2023By Manish Puri The attention of Permanent Style has always been - and will continue to remain - trained upon the highest quality garments in the world. However, there are barriers to accessing the very best – especially with suits. You might l...
Five good ready-made suits under £1000
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Interesting that all of these are spalla camicia. Where can one find good RTW with more padded shoulders? (Or at least some roping would be welcome.)...
Reader profile: Ian
August 14th 2023Ian is retired, and got into luxury menswear late in life. But he always had an interest in clothes, from his early days in Ivy clothing to the forties and fifties influences that came with learning jive dancing. It could be easy to see him as bein...
Reader profile: Ian
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Amazing! I bet Ian must have loved that. Thanks for letting me know...
Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
August 9th 2023Speciale is a beautiful little shop in the west of London, making fine bespoke tailoring and unique shirts and knits. I should have covered Bert and George earlier and I haven't, and it's entirely my fault. My only excuse is location. Speciale is a...
Speciale: Fine Florentine tailoring and haberdashery
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Hey Josh - finally got confirmation, it's Holland & Sherry 2024002...
How much do you actually know? An interview with ...
August 4th 2023By Manish Puri A few months ago I had the privilege of speaking with Alan Flusser about the history of New York bespoke tailoring . From the opening beats of our conversation it was clear that Alan wasn’t about to be constrained by the narrow ...
How much do you actually know? An interview with ...
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Alan Flusser is remarkable man, who has his own style without any need to fit in. That is what a smart person should appreciate. By the way, all guys here in this forum trying to ridicule Mr. Flusser should really grow u...
The glow and romance of it: Douglas Fairbanks on ...
July 31st 2023By Tom Mastronardi. Anyone that knows me appreciates my resolute affection for being well-tailored. Even as a kid raised in a decidedly blue-collar neighbourhood on Chicago’s South Side, I never required any coaxing to don a jacket and tie. Bu...
The glow and romance of it: Douglas Fairbanks on ...
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Hi Thomas, I must have missed this post. Around 1969/1970 , I was about 22 and after a year or so of saving as much as possible I bought my first proper bespoke suit from a wonderful tailor named Bobby Valentine.. I had ...
Black corduroy suit from Zizolfi/Pommella: Learni...
June 19th 2023In my continued exploration of all things the colour of mourning, I commissioned this black-corduroy suit from Pommella (trousers) and Zizolfi (jacket) last year. The logic seemed sound: if black is going to work in tailoring, I’d consistentl...
Black corduroy suit from Zizolfi/Pommella: Learni...
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Yes exactly, and yes I think that would be...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
June 7th 2023Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world. Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping. There are small, niche brands everywhere, as...
Tokyo: A sartorial shopping guide – 2023 Up...
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Thank you Dave. Yes you do get Tabio here in the UK carried by a few stores...
Dunhill Tailors: The brothers that dressed the pa...
May 15th 2023*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article here and a subsequent piece on Bill Fioravanti here* By Manish Puri It’s 1966 and you’re Truma...
Dunhill Tailors: The brothers that dressed the pa...
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I remember reading biographies of the 1950s Dominican playboy, Porfirio Rubirosa, and learning that he had his suits cut by Dunhill in New York. I had originally thought it odd that Alfred Dunhill were offering a bespoke...
William Fioravanti: The power tailor
May 1st 2023*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article, here* By Manish Puri “Ready-made men’s wear was never more varied. Nevertheless, an increasin...
William Fioravanti: The power tailor
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Thank you for sharing, James...
The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An int...
April 19th 2023* This article is the first in a series that will look at New York bespoke over the years* By Manish Puri. In the 1956 version of the song New York’s My Home, Sammy Davis Jr. is eager to address the crazy rumour that some foolhardy New Yorkers...
The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An int...
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What a fantastic exploration of New York's bespoke tailoring history! Sammy Davis Jr. had a point about the unique charm of NYC, but you’ve truly highlighted the city’s rich sartorial legacy. The insights from Bruce ...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
April 12th 2023Wearing a sweater over the shoulders has a lot of negative connotations. But if you can get away with it - because of your style, of where you are, or just because of your personality - it’s incredibly practical. This suit I wore at Pitti earl...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
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Understood Rob. I personally find it doesn't really fall off, but then it depends what I'm doing that day - I'm just walking around town and chatting, not playing with the kids. And, if I tie the sleeves I don't find the...
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni: Modernising the Rom...
September 16th 2022Tommy e Giulio Caraceni is one of the great tailors in Italy, but it’s fair to say they’re in a process of transition. The shop is run by Andrea Caraceni, grandson of Tommy. His father retired last year, and now when in the shop you&rsq...
Tommy & Giulio Caraceni: Modernising the Rom...
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I am a client now of T&G after having gone to Ferdinando before they closed. I have never been to A. Caraceni so can't comment. I would describe T&G and Ferdinando as being similar to cousins: there is definitely...
Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)
September 7th 2022The first time I saw a tailor use an iron to shape cloth, I was genuinely surprised. You wouldn’t think material would be able to be manipulated that much, using steam and pressure to turn a straight piece of canvas into the shape of a collar...
Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)
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Nice to hear Tamaki. We'll be doing more like it soon. I also like the deliberate misspelling - 'impressing'!...
Bocache & Salvucci, Rome: Bespoke shoes and ...
August 19th 2022Bocache & Salvucci was a bit of a surprise when I visited last month. I’d come across the shoemaker at Jean-Manuel Moreau, in Paris, and had assumed that in Rome I would find a small (because relatively unknown) bespoke craftsman. Wh...
Bocache & Salvucci, Rome: Bespoke shoes and ...
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Excellent, many thanks Peter. Wellies starting the week after that late summer I guess :)...
The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final...
July 15th 2022by Aleks Cvetkovic Having now been to my first Royal Ascot, it strikes me that the hardest thing to do with morning dress is to get the details right, and in so doing capture a kind of comfortable ‘old school’ elegance without looking li...
The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final...
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Hi There, Just seen this - really interesting. One small point - stiff collars are not really an affectation at Ascot... and there is a trick to attaching them with a tie easily. Simply loop your tie into the collar and ...
Reader profile: Cedric
June 17th 2022Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has a depth of interest in Americ...
Reader profile: Cedric
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I know what you mean Leif. I would say that, at least in my context, it's more swinging towards the seventies when done well, as basically no one does. If the fit and cut are done well, and perhaps there's a little extra...
The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make
June 6th 2022By Aleks Cvetkovic Welcome to the basted fitting for the bespoke morning suit by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury that we referenced in the first instalment of this series. As mentioned previously, the coat is cut in traditional black featherweave wor...
The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make
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Varies by the tailor, but should be after 2-3 of the same type of piece certainly...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
May 16th 2022Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
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I think they can, yes, if you don't have other details like that ticket pocket, or belt loops. However, the issue may well be that you want a higher-rise trouser to fully sit under a waistcoat, and those trousers are not...
A story in suits: My history with Anderson &...
April 27th 2022I had my first suit made at Anderson & Sheppard 12 years ago, in 2010. As I begin a series looking at the making of a new A&S jacket, I thought it would be interesting, even fun, to look back at that first suit and the ones that fol...
A story in suits: My history with Anderson &...
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Ah well. Nice to hear, and at least you know what you'll get if you ever win the lottery!...
Cocktail attire: An argument for a new type of ev...
December 31st 2021Just before Christmas, I organised a Permanent Style Christmas dinner, to thank a few people that had helped and supported PS in recent years. We were hosted by Geordie D’Anyers Willis of Berry Bros & Rudd, which was kind of Geordie, ...
Cocktail attire: An argument for a new type of ev...
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I'd just put cocktail attire, but that's with a menswear crowd who would now know what that meant roughly...
Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style...
December 29th 2021Edward Sexton is famous for bringing sexy, dramatic tailoring to Savile Row in the 1960s and 1970s, as head cutter for Tommy Nutter. Mick and Bianca Jagger in white suits, The Beatles crossing Abbey Road: these are the looks we know. And today Edwar...
Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style...
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I don't think there would be much difference in comfort between the two, no...
Reader profile: Ben C
December 10th 2021I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
September 22nd 2021A few months ago, Brioni contacted me to ask if I would be interested in having a suit made, in order to review it. Not knowing much about the Brioni product, I was a little unsure. Invitations to cover other big-brand made to measure have not alwa...
Brioni bespoke tailoring
Match in comments:
No worries. As I say, I also wouldn't see it as the be-all and end-all of this. A lot of other work goes in around that padding that's as important (as our next video with Jennie will show)...
