Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown

June 8th 2018

A nice thing about our Finest Tailors series is that, as we add more tailors to it, each becomes a reference for the next, making comparisons easier. This Henry Poole suit, then, makes an interesting comparison to the Richard Anderson tuxedo we fea...

Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown

  A nice thing about our Finest Tailors series is that, as we add more tailors to it, each becomes a reference for the next, making comparisons easier. This Henry Poole suit, then, makes an interesting comparison to the...

SuitsJune 8th 2018

Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory and ...

June 4th 2018

I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back in 2011. Such factories do star...

Eduardo de Simone (Edesim) – The factory and ...

I always enjoy visiting factories, and seeing Eduardo de Simone’s tailoring factory last month outside Naples was no exception. Indeed, it is right next to the first such tailoring factory I visited - Kiton back in 20...

SuitsJune 4th 2018

The Tailor Styles series

May 24th 2018

The reviews of bespoke suits I’ve written over the years haven’t always been the same. Some included more on the experience (particularly when it was bad); some focused on the fit; others were more about style or make. Their length and ...

The Tailor Styles series

  The reviews of bespoke suits I’ve written over the years haven’t always been the same. Some included more on the experience (particularly when it was bad); some focused on the fit; others were more about style or ...

Jackets - StyleMay 24th 2018

Dealing with losing and gaining weight

April 13th 2018

I've been on holiday for the past two weeks, swimming every day, and have noticeably lost weight. I'm tightening the side adjustors on my trousers where I didn't before. It reminds me how frequently readers ask about such fluctuations in weight, and...

Dealing with losing and gaining weight

I've been on holiday for the past two weeks, swimming every day, and have noticeably lost weight. I'm tightening the side adjustors on my trousers where I didn't before. It reminds me how frequently readers ask about su...

Alterations and care - SuitsApril 13th 2018

Sartoria Panico fitting (and a roll neck for a long...

March 30th 2018

One of the less-discussed sides of Pitti Uomo is the number of tailors that set up in a hotel or appartment at the same time as the fair, in order to see customers. Although most visitors to Pitti are buyers from around the world, those buyers are o...

Sartoria Panico fitting (and a roll neck for a long...

One of the less-discussed sides of Pitti Uomo is the number of tailors that set up in a hotel or appartment at the same time as the fair, in order to see customers. Although most visitors to Pitti are buyers from aroun...

SuitsMarch 30th 2018

Sartoria Vestrucci charcoal-flannel suit: Review

March 28th 2018

Right. Let’s do this by first running through the Vestrucci style and cut, and then going into the more subjective areas of reaction and experience. The suit being discussed is a Holland & Sherry charcoal flannel that I had made over...

Sartoria Vestrucci charcoal-flannel suit: Review

Right. Let’s do this by first running through the Vestrucci style and cut, and then going into the more subjective areas of reaction and experience. The suit being discussed is a Holland & Sherry  charcoal fla...

SuitsMarch 28th 2018

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

March 5th 2018

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan produced at a fairly low qual...

Ring Jacket, Japan – Factory visit

Given Japan’s reputation for quality and craft - particularly in denim and bespoke menswear - it would be natural to assume its suit manufacturing was of the same level. But until recently, most factories in Japan p...

Factory visits - SuitsMarch 5th 2018

Sartoria Ciardi Neapolitan bespoke suit: Review

February 23rd 2018

A friend used to say that he knew whether a suit was going to be good at the first, basted fitting. I’m not sure I entirely agree. The first fitting is largely for the tailor, to make sure the fundamentals of balance etc are correct. It is at ...

Sartoria Ciardi Neapolitan bespoke suit: Review

A friend used to say that he knew whether a suit was going to be good at the first, basted fitting. I’m not sure I entirely agree. The first fitting is largely for the tailor, to make sure the fundamentals of balance...

SuitsFebruary 23rd 2018

Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Camp...

January 1st 2018

One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces. When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller review when the piece is read...

Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Camp...

One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces. When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller...

Casual jackets - JacketsJanuary 1st 2018

Sartoria Ciardi – The next generation

November 27th 2017

Renato Ciardi, who sadly passed away earlier this year, was truly one of the greats of Neapolitan tailoring. Succession planning is rarely one of a bespoke tailor’s strengths, but fortunately the Ciardi family began planning for this several y...

Sartoria Ciardi – The next generation

Renato Ciardi, who sadly passed away earlier this year, was truly one of the greats of Neapolitan tailoring. Succession planning is rarely one of a bespoke tailor’s strengths, but fortunately the Ciardi family began p...

SuitsNovember 27th 2017

Buttons online – Bernstein & Banleys

October 23rd 2017

It has always surprised me how many Italian tailors say they can’t source good, unpolished horn buttons. Particularly because, since its launch last year, even customers can buy them from UK distributor Bernstein & Banleys ( TheLiningC...

Buttons online – Bernstein & Banleys

It has always surprised me how many Italian tailors say they can’t source good, unpolished horn buttons. Particularly because, since its launch last year, even customers can buy them from UK distributor Bernstein &...

Alterations and care - SuitsOctober 23rd 2017

Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit –...

October 20th 2017

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. [Read my first post, with the background on Musella Dembech and its style, h...

Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit –...

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. [Read my first post, with the background on Mu...

SuitsOctober 20th 2017

Sartoria Panico – a last great of Neapolitan ...

October 18th 2017

On the wall of Sartoria Panico in Naples, there is a framed picture of our Tailoring Symposium in 2016. Antonio Panico stands there with other greats of modern bespoke such as Edward Sexton, Antonio Liverano and Lorenzo Cifonelli, basking in the sum...

Sartoria Panico – a last great of Neapolitan ...

On the wall of Sartoria Panico in Naples, there is a framed picture of our Tailoring Symposium in 2016. Antonio Panico stands there with other greats of modern bespoke such as Edward Sexton, Antonio Liverano and Lorenzo...

SuitsOctober 18th 2017

Musella Dembech: Growth at the ‘soft Milanese...

October 2nd 2017

It doesn’t feel like over three years since I covered Musella Dembech, but apparently it is. Of course, there was the Young Tailors Symposium in the middle of that, which featured Gianfrancesco Musella (above), but I haven’t written anyt...

Musella Dembech: Growth at the ‘soft Milanese...

It doesn’t feel like over three years since I covered Musella Dembech, but apparently it is. Of course, there was the Young Tailors Symposium in the middle of that, which featured Gianfrancesco Musella (above), but I ...

SuitsOctober 2nd 2017

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and shoul...

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It ma...

Black tie - CoatsSeptember 20th 2017

Michael Norman dry cleaning (previously Press2Dress)

September 1st 2017

There are precious few dry cleaners out there that understand bespoke tailoring. They are likely to clean suits in bulk, with everything going into the vat together and no attention to delicate materials. The biggest issue is pressing though: they ...

Michael Norman dry cleaning (previously Press2Dress)

There are precious few dry cleaners out there that understand bespoke tailoring.  They are likely to clean suits in bulk, with everything going into the vat together and no attention to delicate materials. The biggest...

Alterations and care - SuitsSeptember 1st 2017

Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors

August 25th 2017

Gigi doesn’t normally talk much. The master cutter at Neapolitan tailors Dalcuore, he normally stands back, silently, as Damiano and Cristina do the talking. This is both his character and a result of speaking little English. It was nice to ha...

Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors

Gigi doesn’t normally talk much. The master cutter at Neapolitan tailors Dalcuore, he normally stands back, silently, as Damiano and Cristina do the talking. This is both his character and a result of speaking little ...

Jackets - SuitsAugust 25th 2017

Sartoria Vestrucci launches: Bespoke and ready-to-w...

July 10th 2017

This summer there were several launch events at Pitti Uomo. Kenji opened up in Florence again, with his new Tie Your Tie store (small but lovely); Benedikt had his Shibumi showroom with new tailoring; it was effectively the launch of Neapolitan tro...

Sartoria Vestrucci launches: Bespoke and ready-to-w...

This summer there were several launch events at Pitti Uomo.  Kenji opened up in Florence again, with his new Tie Your Tie store (small but lovely); Benedikt had his Shibumi showroom with new tailoring; it was effective...

SuitsJuly 10th 2017

Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

May 31st 2017

It's hard not to feel that the future of the suit lies in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. We may move towards a situation where these cloths will be reserved for formal wear, while everyday suits and jackets are ma...

Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo

It's hard not to feel that the future of the suit lies in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. We may move towards a situation where these cloths will be reserved for formal wear, while e...

Cloth - SuitsMay 31st 2017

Marcus Malmborg: Eidos made-to-measure in London

May 29th 2017

This week, Thursday June 1st to Saturday 3rd, both Agyesh of Stoffa and Marcus Malmborg for Eidos will be back in London. I’ve written previously about the wonderful colours and design sense of Stoffa, but not about Mr Malmborg (above). Marcus...

Marcus Malmborg: Eidos made-to-measure in London

This week, Thursday June 1st to Saturday 3rd, both Agyesh of Stoffa and Marcus Malmborg for Eidos will be back in London. I’ve written previously about the wonderful colours and design sense of Stoffa, but not about ...

Jackets - SuitsMay 29th 2017

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

May 26th 2017

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even last night the mirrors w...

Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open...

Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and eve...

Casual jackets - DenimMay 26th 2017

Style Guide – the partners shoot

April 24th 2017

The Style Guide has been wonderfully received so far - at the launch events in London and New York, but also online and through personal messages. Thank you all. There are a few things I realise I haven't emphasised so far. One is that we proudly d...

Style Guide – the partners shoot

The Style Guide has been wonderfully received so far - at the launch events in London and New York, but also online and through personal messages. Thank you all.  There are a few things I realise I haven't emphasised s...

Hanks and scarves - KnitwearApril 24th 2017

Sartoria Ciccio: Noriyuki Ueki, bespoke tailor, Japan

March 27th 2017

Of all the tailors we visited in Japan last year, Ciccio was the one I was excited about seeing. I'd seen and tried on examples of his work on friends, and more importantly heard good things about his attitude to style and working with customers. We...

Sartoria Ciccio: Noriyuki Ueki, bespoke tailor, Japan

Of all the tailors we visited in Japan last year, Ciccio was the one I was excited about seeing. I'd seen and tried on examples of his work on friends, and more importantly heard good things about his attitude to style ...

SuitsMarch 27th 2017

Honorific: The Permanent Style valet stand

February 27th 2017

The reaction to the pop-up shop so far has been wonderful: hundreds of people through the door every day, both highly engaged, loyal readers and strollers-by interested in something so different on Savile Row. The first two days have been a whirlwi...

Honorific: The Permanent Style valet stand

The reaction to the pop-up shop so far has been wonderful: hundreds of people through the door every day, both highly engaged, loyal readers and strollers-by interested in something so different on Savile Row.  The fir...

SuitsFebruary 27th 2017

Satoki Kawai of Sartoria Cresent: bespoke tailor, M...

February 17th 2017

Creare - to create Sentire - to feel For Japanese tailor Satoki Kawai, these are the two most important things about making a piece of clothing - and are the reason his tailoring house combines the two in its portmanteau of a name, 'Sartoria Cresen...

Satoki Kawai of Sartoria Cresent: bespoke tailor, M...

Creare - to create Sentire - to feel  For Japanese tailor Satoki Kawai, these are the two most important things about making a piece of clothing - and are the reason his tailoring house combines the two in its portmant...

SuitsFebruary 17th 2017